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Title: Bridge; its Principles and Rules of Play
       with Illustrative Hands and the Club Code of Bridge Laws

Author: J.B. Elwell

Release Date: November 12, 2011 [EBook #38000]

Language: English

Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1

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BRIDGE

 


COPYRIGHT, 1902, 1905, BY
J. B. ELWELL

TROW DIRECTORY
PRINTING AND BOOKBINDING COMPANY
NEW YORK

 


TO   HIS   PUPILS
AND   TO
ALL   OTHERS   INTERESTED   IN
THE   GAME   OF   BRIDGE
THE   AUTHOR
WOULD   BEG   LEAVE   TO  DEDICATE
THIS   BOOK
 
 
 

PREFACE

THE main purpose which I have had in view in writing this book has been to provide my pupils with a SIMPLE and ELEMENTARY work on Bridge. I have endeavoured to abstain from assuming a knowledge of Whist or Whist terms on the part of the reader, and have merely attempted to write a text-book which shall combine clear and concise statements of my rules, with a reason for and explanation of each one. These rules have stood the test of practical experiment by myself and others for the last five years, so that this statement of them will, I trust, be of benefit both to the beginner and to the advanced player.

J. B. E.

BRIDGE

PLAYERS

Bridge is usually played by four persons. If there are more than four candidates, the prior right to play is decided by cutting the cards.

CUTTING

This is done from a full pack of fifty-two cards which have been shuffled and spread face downward on the table. Each player draws a card. The four cutting the lowest cards play the first rubber. In cutting ace is low. The cards are also cut to decide partners, the two highest playing against the two lowest. The dealer is the player cutting the lowest card of all, and he has the choice of the seats and of the cards. Should the two players who cut the lowest cards draw cards of equal value, they must cut again to decide which shall deal.

DEALING

Before being dealt, the cards must be shuffled by the dealer and then cut by the player at his right. It is customary to play with two packs of cards, the dealer's partner shuffling, or making up, for his right-hand adversary. The cards are dealt one at a time, from left to right, until all are exhausted, each player having thirteen cards. The last card should not be turned face up. There is no penalty for a misdeal.

THE OBJECT OF THE GAME

There are two separate scores to be played for—trick and honour scores. The trick score is credited to the side that wins more than six tricks; the honour score to the side that holds the majority of the trump honours. The object of the game is to score more points than your adversaries, tricks and honours included. This is best done by winning a rubber.

THE GAME

The game consists of thirty or more trick points. All points in excess of thirty are counted by the side winning them; but only one game can be won in a deal. Honours are a separate score and do not count toward winning the game.

THE RUBBER

The rubber is the best of three games. If the first two games are won by the same partners the third is not played. One hundred points are added to the total score of the side winning the rubber.

DECLARING THE TRUMP

The hand may be played either without a trump, or a trump suit may be selected.

The dealer has the option of making a declaration or of passing that privilege to his partner. If the dealer passes the make, his partner must announce the trump. A trump once made cannot be changed at any time during the deal.

TABLE OF TRICK VALUES

(For each trick over six.)

DOUBLING

After the trump has been declared each adversary, in turn, may increase the value of the tricks by doubling.

The leader—the player at the left of the dealer—has the first right to double. If the leader does not wish to double his partner may then do so.

REDOUBLING

If either the leader or his partner has doubled the trump, the dealer or his partner may re-double, the player who has made the trump having the first right. This process may continue indefinitely. Doubling or redoubling does not affect the value of the honours.

THE DUMMY

When the value of each trick has been determined, and after a card has been led, the dealer's partner places his hand face upward on the table—the trump suit at his right—and the dealer plays both hands. The dealer's partner—the dummy—is not allowed to suggest, to touch or to play a card except at the dealer's bidding. It is the dummy's right, should the dealer refuse to follow in any suit, to endeavour to prevent a revoke. (See Conversation of the Game.)

THE PLAY

In the play of the cards the ace is high and deuce low. You must follow suit, but if you have no card of the suit led, you may either trump or discard. At no-trump the best card of the suit led wins the trick.

THE CONVERSATION OF THE GAME

In order to avoid giving partner information as to the character of one's hand, both the conversation of the game and its order should be strictly adhered to. To find that the wrong person has announced the trump, or that a player has doubled out of turn, or that one has led without asking permission, is most irritating to the other players, and a severe penalty may often be exacted for such a mistake. The dealer may either declare the trump or say, "I pass." If the dealer passes, his partner must announce the trump. The leader may either double or say, "May I Lead, Partner?" this indicates that he does not want to double, but wishes to give his partner an opportunity to do so. The leader's partner either says "No, I double," or "lead, please."

The conversation is indicated in the following diagram.

When the trump has been doubled the maker says, "I redouble," or "I am satisfied." If the maker is satisfied his partner says, "I redouble," or "I am satisfied." In many clubs the conversation is somewhat changed and abbreviated. "Pass." "Hearts." "I double." "I go over." "I redouble" or "I go back." "Enough," or a rap on the table to signify satisfaction.

TO PREVENT A REVOKE

If your partner refuses to follow suit, always ask, "Have you no (hearts), Partner?" An error may then be rectified, but only before the trick has been turned and quitted or before another card has been led.

SCORING

The score consists of two separate counts: trick score and honour score. The trick score is made by the side winning more than six tricks in a hand. The honour score, by the partners who hold the majority of the trump honours. With a declared trump the honours are A K Q J and 10. At no-trump only the Aces count as honours. Doubling does not increase the honour score.

TABLE SHOWING VALUE OF HONOURS

A Little Slam, winning twelve of the thirteen tricks, adds 20 points to the honour score.

A Grand Slam, winning all thirteen tricks, adds 40 points to the honour score.

Chicane, a hand which is without a trump, adds the value of three honours to the honour score.

Double Chicane, a player and partner having no trumps, adds the value of four honours to the honour score.

THE METHOD OF SCORING

After the rubber has been won the honour score and the trick score of each side are added, and the leaser total deducted from the greater.

THE SCORE

There is no part of the game of Bridge to which I would more urgently request the attention of the player than to a careful consideration of the state of the score. It is useless to attempt to play good Bridge without a knowledge of the score. If you blindly follow rules for making, doubling, and playing, without knowing exactly how many points you require to win the game as well as the number needed by your adversaries, you will needlessly lose many rubbers.

Before you declare the trump look at the score to determine the number of points you must make in order to win the game.

Know the score when you contemplate doubling.

Never lead without knowing how many tricks you must make in order to SAVE the game.

When you are the dealer outline your play to win the game; and if you find it impossible to win the game be sure to SAVE it.

THE DECLARATION

While a few tricks may be dropped in the play of a hand, an unsound make may result in the loss of several hundred points. The importance, both of making the trump to the score and of considering the probability of securing an honour score, cannot be too deeply impressed on the player's mind. This, more than any part of the game, requires the exercise of sound judgment. The good maker has an enormous advantage over the weak one.

Try to select the trump that will win the greatest number of points with a strong hand, and the one that will lose the fewest possible number with a weak hand. Be liberal and bold when behind in the game and conservative and timid when ahead.

In suggesting rules for the make this difficulty must be faced: the exercise of the best judgment in the world will not enable one to select the successful trump EVERY time; and players are apt to forget the many times a particular make has won, and to be impressed by the one time the rule failed them.

Follow consistently the laws for the make with a certainty that in the large majority of cases they will prove successful; and digress from these laws only when the score warrants.

NO-TRUMP DECLARATION BY THE DEALER

Provided the hand contain no large honour score in hearts or diamonds, it is evident that the no-trump declaration is more likely than any other to result in the gain of a large score; the dealer should, therefore, first consider his chances of winning at no-trump. There is a large percentage in favour of the success of an original no-trump make. The dealer can see and combine his own with the dummy hand; while his adversary makes the initial lead in the dark. The dealer can play false cards; while the adversaries cannot afford to deceive each other. In short the dealer plays the hand with an exact knowledge of the cards that are held against him, and can take advantage of any error made, or any information given by the adversaries. As tricks are won by small suit cards in every no-trump hand, there is no method of estimating how many tricks your hand may be worth. The dealer, in declaring no-trump, may assume that his partner's hand will contain an average amount of strength. If the dealer is weak in one suit he is justified in counting on his partner's hand for some protection in that suit. The dealer should not declare no-trump when he is reasonably sure of winning the game or rubber with a trump suit; neither should the dealer declare no-trump without an ace in his hand—unless the score is very desperate and then only when his hand is exceptionally strong.

RULES FOR THE NO-TRUMP DECLARATION BY THE DEALER

[A] "x" signifies small cards.

GUARDED SUITS

The following may be called guarded suits:

WEAK NO-TRUMP MAKES TO THE SCORE

If the score warrants the dealer in taking a chance at a weak make, it is safer to gamble at no-trump than at a weak red declaration. At no-trump the dealer's partner has a wider field for assistance, as any one good suit will help.

On the rubber game, with the score very much against him, the dealer should declare no-trump.

HEARTS

In considering a heart make, the dealer should be influenced by the general strength of his hand and by the number of honours he holds in the trump suit. Hearts should always be declared with four or five honours in the hand irrespective of the strength of other suits; the honour score will probably more than compensate for a possible loss of trick points. A heart declaration with less than two honours is not advisable—unless the hand contain great length in the trump suit or great strength in the other suits—as the honour scores made against the hand will usually exceed its trick value.

HEARTS IN PREFERENCE TO NO-TRUMP

As it requires three odd tricks to win a game of thirty points without a trump, and but one trick more to win a game with a heart trump, the dealer will often have occasion to choose between the two makes. With a strong heart hand and a doubtful "no-trumper," or if the hand contain one unguarded suit, hearts should always be given the preference. As the adversaries have the lead and the privilege of doubling, a weak suit exposes the hand to some danger at no-trump.

RULES FOR THE HEART MAKE

The dealer should declare hearts:

DIAMONDS

As there are two declarations of greater value than diamonds, there is often a question as to the advisability of passing the make with a fair diamond hand and of giving partner an opportunity to declare no-trump or hearts. The dealer should always make the trump diamonds holding four or five honours in his hand, irrespective of the state of the score; holding less than four honours the dealer must be influenced by the number of points that are necessary to win the game, and by the strength of his hand. Many players are prejudiced against an original diamond declaration when the score is love all; and, while the writer believes it safer at this score to declare diamonds with a fair hand than to chance the uncertainty of a passed make, yet the make SHOULD be passed:—

When behind on the first game—as 0-24.

Having lost the first and with nothing scored on the second game.

When nothing on the rubber game.

In each of these positions, as the adversaries have the next deal and may win the game, it is imperative that you score thirty points. To accomplish this with a diamond trump it is necessary to win eleven of the thirteen tricks; therefore, unless you hold a hand of more than the average strength, it is advisable to pass the make in hopes that partner can declare hearts or no-trump.

If there is a question between a diamond and no-trump declaration, the latter is usually preferable; for while the risk is greater the reward is double.

A diamond make is advisable whenever there is a fair chance to win the game, as when but two or three odd tricks are needed.

RULES FOR THE DIAMOND MAKE

The dealer should declare diamonds:

BLACK SUIT DECLARATIONS

The score should be the one excuse for an original black declaration, and then only when comparatively sure of winning the game. Otherwise, when the hand does not admit of a red or a no-trump declaration, the make should be passed.

CLUBS

Clubs should be made originally only when the score is eighteen or more, and the hand strong enough, with slight assistance, to win the game. Clubs may be declared when there are four honours in one hand, providing the dealer has won the first game and is eight or more on the second. The trick and honour scores combined will count more than the average make, and with great help the game may be won.

SPADES

Spades may be made originally when six points or less are needed to win the game.

DEFENSIVE SPADE MAKES

With a very weak hand some players advise a defensive spade make with the object of preventing partner's attempting a make which may prove disastrous. While much may be said in favour of an original black make under these circumstances, it is doubtful whether it pays; the adversaries are almost certain to double, and you eliminate the possibility of securing a large honour score and of winning the game on that deal. The one time that a defensive spade make might be justifiable is when you are a game to the good and do not wish to lose the advantage which this position offers.

SYNOPSIS OF THE MAKES

The dealer should declare

NO-TRUMPS,

♥ HEARTS. ♥

The dealer should NOT declare hearts

♦ DIAMONDS. ♦

The dealer should NOT declare diamonds:

When behind on the score, unless there are 4 honours, or 7 or 8 tricks, in the hand.

When 0 to 24 on the first game.

Having lost the first and 0 on the second game.

When 0 on the rubber game.

The dealer should NOT declare clubs

Unless his score is 18 or more points, and the hand strong enough to win the game.

The dealer should NOT declare spades

Unless his score is 24 or more points, and the hand strong enough to win the game.

PASSED MAKES

The dummy hand, in declaring the trump, should keep in mind the rules suggested for the dealer, and, at the same time, be governed in his choice by the state of the score, by the general strength of his hand, and by the dealer's acknowledged weakness. When the make has been passed, one must infer that the dealer has not a strong hand, neither has he much strength in the red suits. While the latter inference may be doubtful, the dealer often passing a fair diamond hand, it is dangerous to declare no-trump without protection in the red suits, and the declaration may result in a disastrous loss.

The following suggestions may prove useful:

The fact that your hand is exposed gives the adversaries an opportunity to take advantage of its weak points.

A no-trump make that is weak in the red suits, unless justified by the score, is unsound.

A no-trump make that is weak in Hearts is liable to be doubled.

When a game ahead be conservative. When a game behind be bold.

Endeavour to prevent the adversaries from winning the first game on your deal. When the adversaries have won a game and have the first deal on the second, they hold an advantage you will find most difficult to overcome.

If your hand is worth less than four tricks don't make the trump red.

If your hand is worth less than four tricks make the trump to lose as little as possible.

EXAMPLES OF ORIGINAL MAKES

DOUBLING

If you—being the leader or his partner—are reasonably sure of the odd trick, it is decidedly to your advantage to increase its value; but to double "just for a gamble" rarely pays; it often results in a redouble, and you are apt to find the sport expensive and your partner very disagreeable.

In order to double with any degree of success, you must consider the state of the score, the possibility of a redouble, and your position in regard to the maker. Above all things, DEPEND ON YOUR OWN HAND and don't expect your partner to take MOST of the tricks.

My advice to a beginner is: Be cautious and, until you have learned to value your hand, be satisfied with the number of points you can make without doubling.

ESTIMATING THE VALUE OF A HAND

To determine the probable trick-taking value of your hand, count each Ace and King as a trick, and add to these the number of tricks you can take in the trump suit. Queens count only as possible tricks, as the third round of a suit may be trumped.

In determining the number of tricks you can take in the trump suit you must remember that it makes a great difference on which side of you the trump strength lies. For instance, holding Ace, Queen, and ten of trumps, if you play after the maker, you will probably get three tricks; but if the maker plays after you, your trumps can be led through, and you may make but one trump trick.

If you play after the maker,

RULES FOR DOUBLING

To double spades, you should hold in your hand 4 tricks and a possible 5th.

To double hearts, diamonds, or clubs, you should hold five tricks and a possible 6th.

To double "no-trumps," you should hold 6 tricks and a possible 7th.

Be careful about doubling "no-trumps," unless you hold a long established suit. Your adversary may have seven tricks in his long suit, and it is hard to discard from a "good all-round hand."

Spades may be doubled when weak in trumps; but, to double hearts, diamonds, or clubs, you should have some trump strength.

When doubling remember

That you show the dealer where the strength lies.

That you stand a better chance of winning the odd trick by not exposing your strength.

That when the "maker" is on your right, you have the advantage that your trumps are over his.

That when the "maker" is on your left you are at a disadvantage; his trumps are over yours.

That it is a good time to double when the odd trick wins the game for your adversaries, and does not win it for you.

That it is a poor time to double when the odd trick wins the game for you and does not win it for your adversaries.

That with a doubtful hand it is better to be satisfied with what you can make without doubling.

That if you double "no-trumps" your partner will lead you his best heart.

THE LEAD WHEN PARTNER HAS DOUBLED

When your partner has doubled, the opening lead must depend greatly on the scheme you adopt for the play of your hand. It is a mistake to suppose your partner wishes a trump led EVERY time he doubles. On the contrary, spades—when doubled—are seldom led by good players, unless with a strong hand, until they have gained information to justify the trump lead.

The majority of hands will be covered by the following rules:

If spades have been doubled and you hold four or more trumps you should usually lead trumps.

It is fair to assume that your partner has doubled with a good suit hand. Lead trumps if you are weak in spades, but hold a strong suit hand. Your partner has probably doubled with trump strength.

If hearts, diamonds, or clubs have been doubled and dummy is the "maker" it is usually good play to lead trumps; that is, when you have no short suit and so are unable to use your trumps for ruffing.

If possible lead to take the first trick. After you have seen the dummy you are in a position to judge as to the advisability of the trump lead.

When hearts, diamonds, or clubs have been doubled and the dealer is the maker, it is not sound play to lead trumps. You would place your partner in a bad position by leading up to the dealer's declared strength.

When leading trumps always lead the top of two or three and the lowest of four.

HEART CONVENTION

When you have the first lead and your partner has doubled a "no-trump" make you are expected to lead your highest heart. As there are very few hands where it is advisable to double "no-trump" on general strength, it is necessary for the leader to know what suit to lead when his partner has doubled.

When the leader holds an A K or an A K Q suit he should first lead the K of that suit and then his highest heart.

WEAK-SUIT CONVENTION

In England and in some parts of this country the leader tries to guess his partner's suit by leading the one in which he himself is weakest. While this convention affords many more opportunities of doubling, it is not nearly so safe as the heart convention. There is about an even chance that the weak suit led will put the dealer or the dummy hand in the lead.

THE NON-DEALER'S PLAY AGAINST A DECLARED TRUMP

The principles of play adopted against a trump and against a no-trump declaration are entirely different; and it is for this reason that Bridge is confusing to the beginner.

The important principles that govern the play against a trump declaration are:

To hold the lead in order to see the dummy hand.

To make high cards before they can be trumped.

To give your partner information.

The importance of first seeing the thirteen cards in the dummy is self-evident. The play of an entire hand is often influenced by the cards in the dummy; therefore, if you can win the first trick, you are in a better position on the second lead to play your own and your partner's hand to advantage.

These combinations should be selected in their order for the original lead without reference to the length of the suit.

Ace from any other combination except A Q with one or two more.

As the maker, more especially if the trump is red, has shown strength, your first consideration should be to save the game. This is best done by leading your Aces and other high cards before the dealer has a chance to discard and to trump. This is particularly true when there is an established suit in the dummy hand; for then the dealer may be able to exhaust trumps and discard his own losing cards on this established suit.

ORIGINAL LEADS AGAINST A DECLARED TRUMP

When opposed to the dealer, aim to give your partner as much information as possible. You certainly cannot expect to gain much by deceiving the dealer—he knows what is held against him—and it is a decided advantage for your partner to know where certain cards are and to understand what you are trying to do. The best method of indicating the cards you hold is to adhere strictly to the correct lead from each combination of cards.

From all other combinations, such as

Don't lead low from suits headed by an Ace.

The lead of an Ace followed by the King shows no more of that suit.

The lead of a King indicates the Ace, the Queen, or both.

With any three honours in a suit, your lead is always one of the honours.

Holding but 3 or 4 cards in any of the following suits avoid leading if possible. Wait until they are led to you.

If in any doubt as to your lead select your longest and strongest suit and lead the 4th best.

WHY THE 4TH BEST CARD IS LED

There are two reasons for leading the 4th best card of your long suit.

To show partner how many cards you hold in the suit.

To show partner what you have in the suit.

If you lead 4th best and afterward either discard or play a smaller one, your partner will know that you originally held more than four cards in that suit. The lead of a deuce, for instance, shows but four cards in the suit. Your partner, by applying the "Rule of Eleven," can very often tell the exact combination of cards from which you have led.

THE RULE OF ELEVEN

Deduct the size of the card led from eleven, and the difference will show how many cards HIGHER than the one led are held outside the leader's hand. If, for instance, your partner lead an eight spot, the dummy having the queen and you holding A 10 x of the suit, as you see three cards above the eight, you know the dealer cannot play higher and that your partner must have led from K J 9 8.

This rule is especially important at "no-trump"; but players should not give it much attention unless the card originally led is higher than a five.

If your partner has had the original lead, and you have taken a trick, either make your high cards or

LEAD UP TO WEAKNESS

Weakness means no high cards, and leading up to, is making a person play fourth in hand to a trick. By leading a suit in which dummy has weak cards, you may enable your partner to win a trick cheaply. Whenever the dummy hand is on your right you should take this advantage of its weakness. It is sometimes good play to lead a card higher than the dummy's best. This, if the card you lead is not covered, gives your partner a chance to pass the trick.

EXAMPLES OF OPENING LEADS

THE CARD IN RED INDICATES THE LEAD.

(Hearts) Trump Declared by Dealer.

Holding the Lead.

Leading from a Sequence.

Leading from Long Suits.

Leading from Short Suits.

(Hearts) Trump "Passed Make."

AFTER THE FIRST TRICK

After you have led and have won the first trick, examine the exposed hand carefully; then either continue with the suit led originally or lead through strength.

LEADING THROUGH STRENGTH

The beginner will appreciate the fact that strength in a suit consists of high cards, but is apt to find the term "leading through" difficult to understand. Leading through means to make a person play second in hand to the trick. You always lead through your left-hand adversary.

The object of leading through strength is to help your partner make his high cards by giving him the advantage of playing after the exposed hand.

Holding a sequence of two or more cards, headed by a Queen, Jack, or Ten, when there is an honour in the dummy it is good play to lead the highest card. If the dummy does not cover this lead, it gives your partner an opportunity to pass the trick.

Holding one or two high cards of dummy's strong suit that are not in sequence, avoid leading the suit. Wait until dummy leads to you.

Don't lead through strength when dummy holds a sequence of three or more cards, as

Holding a high card or cards in a suit in which the dummy is weak, avoid leading that suit. Try to put your partner in the lead, so that he may lead it to you.

Holding no high cards in the suit, the following combinations should be led through:

Holding a sequence of two or more cards the following combinations should be led through:

FORCING

Judicious forcing will do more than anything else to break up a strong trump hand.

Forcing means making a player trump—the object being to weaken his hand.

It is good play to force the strong trump hand.

When the strong trump hand holds no more cards of your long suit, do all damage possible with it. Unless trumps are out, the suit is of no other use to you.

It is bad play to force the weak trump hand. Unless you can make the strong hand trump it is better to stop leading the suit.

Do not lead a suit that will allow the weak hand to trump and the other hand to discard; the adversaries take the trick and get rid of a losing card.

It is too late to force when the dummy has an established suit and the dealer has the last trump or trumps. Make what you can before giving up the lead.

When the weak hand can ruff your suit, it is sometimes good play to lead trumps; but only when, in doing so, you are leading trumps through the strong hand, and when you have some protection in the other suits.

SHORT SUITS

There are two lines of play that may be followed to make tricks against the dealer. The first—to make your high cards—has been explained. The second is to make your small trumps by ruffing.

When you have no high card lead, or if you are anxious to be led up to, it is often good play to throw the lead and, at the same time, to try to make your small trumps. This can be done by leading a short suit.

A short suit is a suit of less than four cards; but the term is commonly used to denote a singleton or a two-card suit.

In order that your partner may understand that you are leading a short suit (and not the fourth best card of a long one) it is customary to lead the highest card. (If you are forced to open a suit with K J x, K x x or Q x x, the low card should be led.)

To detect a short suit apply the "Rule of Eleven." If there are (in your hand and the dummy) more higher cards than the rule allows, the lead cannot be the fourth-best card.

Under the following circumstances a short suit should not be led.

If you hold four trumps, including any one honour, don't lead a short suit. Your best play is to open your long suit and force the dealer to trump. In this way you weaken the dealer's hand and you may prevent his bringing in his long suit or you may even establish and make your own.

If the make has been passed, don't lead a short black suit. It is natural to suppose that the dealer is strong in black suits—if in any—and you would be leading up to declared strength.

If you can take the first trick, do so and then judge of the advisability of the short-suit lead.

THE DISCARD

There is considerable discussion and a wide diversity of opinion among Bridge Players as to the best suit to throw away. You should, therefore, before playing, ask your partner which method he adopts. Some advantage may be claimed for each theory of discard; but the main object of them all is the same—to indicate to partner the suit you wish led and at the same time protect any honours you may hold in other suits.

The three different discards used by Bridge Players are:

Strength, both with a trump and at "no-trump."

Strength, with a trump and weakness at "no-trump."

Weakness, both with a trump and at "no-trump."

The discard of strength with a trump and weakness at "no-trump" is the one most commonly used. This discard of weakness at "no-trump," while it has the advantage of saving all the cards of the long suit, which you may make, has also several disadvantages.

To show your suit absolutely you need two discards.

In order not to deceive your partner it may be necessary to unguard honours, such as J x x x, 10 x x x, Q x x, or even K x.

By discarding weakness you show the dealer against which hand to finesse.

The writer, after the analysis of many thousand hands, believes that at "no-trump" the first discard from strength, i.e., the long suit or the suit you wish partner to lead, is the safest and best, both for protecting the hand and for showing the suit beyond possibility of mistake.

The main advantages of the strength discard are:

It takes but one discard positively to show the suit wanted.

You can protect the high cards in your weaker suits without deceiving your partner.

It does not show the dealer so clearly on which side to take a finesse.

By showing your suit earlier in the hand, you enable your partner to discard to better advantage.

There are but few "no-trump" hands in which it is possible to make all the small cards of one's suit against the dealer—unless it be the suit first opened. Occasionally the suit in which the dealer is weak in both hands will be made; but more often this suit is never brought in, because the adversaries do not know the cards they hold in the two hands.

For years whist authorities have agreed that with trump strength declared against you the first discard should be from strength. Why, then, when strength in all of the suits has been declared, should not the strength discard be the best defensive discard for the majority of bridge hands? In order not to lose an opportunity of making all of the long suit, players will continually unguard cards in the weak suits which, if properly protected, would win tricks; and when using the weak suit discard these cards must be unguarded in order to show partner your suit.

There may be an occasional trick lost by discarding from strength at "no-trump," but there are so many tricks thrown away by unguarding honours in weak suits, and so many games and rubbers lost by guessing the wrong suit, that Bridge Players will find the strength discard will save more and lose less than any other discard. You do not expect to win on your adversaries' make; you hope to prevent their winning a large score.

If you have once led, you have shown your strength, and may then discard from any suit you wish.

Discard only once from your strength, and then as the situation and the hand warrant.

THE REVERSE DISCARD

In discarding, the play of a high and then a lower card reverses the original meaning of the discard. If you adopt the strength discard, and wish to throw away your weak suit at "no-trump," do so by discarding first a high and then a lower card. If you use the weak discard and wish to throw away your strong suit, discard first a high and then a lower card.

The reverse discard should be used only when it is clearly shown that two discards can be made.

HINTS ON DISCARDING

Watch the dealer's discards and protect the suit that he is saving.

After you have led or shown your suit, the discard of a high and then a lower card in another suit shows command of the second suit.

The discard of an Ace shows great strength in the suit.

If a spade declaration has been doubled by you or your partner—and especially when either of you has indicated strength by leading trumps—the first discard should be from weakness.

In discarding at "no-trump," don't throw away all the cards of one suit: it exposes your partner's hand, and makes it easy for the dealer to tell how that suit is placed. Besides, you may need one card of that suit to put your partner in the lead.

Save at least one card of your partner's long suit, unless you are forced to give it up in order to protect your hand.

After you have led or shown your suit your discard should be from weakness.

If your partner is discarding from weakness, protect the suit that he is throwing away, if you can.

If forced to protect honours in other suits, don't be afraid to unguard honours in the suit in which partner is strong.

NON-DEALER'S PLAY

Second Hand

In determining the card to play second in hand, you will find it a great assistance to ask yourself why the dealer is leading that suit. You can usually infer from the dummy's cards and your own hand what the dealer must hold to have led the suit.

Cover an honour with an honour. This should always be done holding a perfect or an imperfect fourchette (a card higher and a card lower than the one led). An honour should be covered when by so doing you hope to make a card good in your partner's hand. Don't cover holding a K, Q, or J three times guarded, unless your next best card is a nine or better.

Don't hesitate. By hesitation a player often shows the dealer how to play his cards. Play quickly, and if there is any doubt as to your play, play the lowest card you hold.

If the dummy has a tenace over your cards or can take any card you hold, play low; let the dealer do the guessing.

Holding any two or more honours in sequence, play the lowest honour of the sequence.

Beat the dummy. When the dealer leads, it is usually advisable to play a card higher than the best in the dummy.

If you hold ace and others of the suit which the dummy leads, and the trumps are all against you, play your ace second in hand. If you wait, your ace may be trumped.

Third Hand

In this position your play should be guided by a knowledge of the leads, an application of the "Rule of Eleven," and a close observance of the dummy hand.

Unless you hold two or more honours in sequence, play your highest card. The object of doing this is either to win the trick, or, by forcing a still higher card from your adversary, to make a card good in your partner's hand.

Do not deceive your partner by playing an unnecessarily high card. Holding any two honours in sequence, play the lower.

Finessing on Partner's Lead

When the dummy holds no honour, it is not good play to "finesse against your partner." If you hold K J or A Q, by playing any card but the best you not only give the dealer an opportunity to make a trick, but you run the risk of losing your own high cards in that suit. If, however, the dummy holds an honour, K or Q, and you hold A and J of the suit, you are justified in finessing the J, hoping your partner holds the missing honour. At "no-trump"—when the dummy holds an honour—it is customary to finesse much deeper, hoping to catch the honour exposed on the table and so establish partner's suit.

THE ECHO

Some players use the echo only when they can trump the third round of a suit.

The echo is a signal used by Bridge players to show ability to win the third round of the suit either with a trump or a high card.

If your partner leads the K and then the A when you hold only two cards of that suit, show you can trump the third round by playing first the higher and then the lower.

If you hold the Q and your partner leads the K and A, show in the same manner that you can win the third round of the suit.

Don't echo with an honour; it may deceive your partner.

At "no-trump" the echo is used to encourage partner to continue that suit.

On a doubled spade, if your partner leads a high trump, echo with three by playing the intermediate trump to the first round.

THE DEALER'S PLAY WITH A DECLARED TRUMP

In playing the two hands, the dealer must take advantage of any information he can gain from the leads and plays of the adversaries; and, in return, try to convey a false impression of his own hand. Above all, the dealer should know the score and estimate the number of tricks he must take to win the game; always bearing in mind that if he cannot win the game, he should try to prevent the adversaries from so doing.

LEADING TRUMPS

One of the worst faults of the beginner is refusing to lead trumps. When you hold seven or more trumps in the two hands, usually lead them. If you hold commanding suit cards, the trump lead will prevent their being ruffed. When you have no suit to make the lead will establish your trump suit. If you hold high cards that should be led up to, lead trumps to throw the lead and to compel the adversaries to lead to you.

Arrange to lead your trumps advantageously—from the weak hand to the strong.

After trumps are exhausted, try to clearer establish the longest suit in the two hands.

It is usually good play to draw two trumps for one; but when the best trump is against you, do not waste two of yours to get it out.

Lead the losing trump only when you have an established suit and a sure re-entry.

When you hold one or more trumps and a losing card, always lead the trumps. This will force the adversaries to discard and they may not save the right suit.

Aim to discard your losing cards from the one hand, on the commanding cards in the other.

With a weak hand you are more likely to make your high cards if you put your adversaries in the lead.

Not Leading Trumps

The exception to the trump lead is when the weaker of the two trump hands contains a short suit and can ruff; then, before leading trumps, allow the weak hand to trump your losing cards.

Unless a cross ruff can be established, it is usually bad play to weaken your strong trump hand by forcing it to ruff. If you do this, you will find it difficult to exhaust trumps from the adversaries' hands and to make any commanding suit cards you may hold.

If your adversary has doubled, be cautious about leading trumps. It is good play to lead through the doubling hand; but bad play to lead up to it.

THE NON-DEALER'S PLAY OF A "NO-TRUMP" HAND

With a declared trump you aim to make your high cards; but at no-trump the high cards take care of themselves and you must try to establish your small cards.

If you are the leader at "no-trump," open your longest suit. Save the high cards of your other suits for re-entry and try to establish the small cards of your long suit.

Don't lead your aces and kings to take a look at dummy; later in the hand you will need them to get the lead and bring in your established suit. The majority of "no-trump" makes are strong in three suits. Your long suits may be the weak spot in the dealer's hand.

Try to infer, from the dummy hand and your own, the high cards the dealer must hold to have declared "no-trump." You will be surprised to find how many times an inference thus drawn will enable you to play your hand to advantage.

Having started your long suit, usually the best play is to continue that suit until it becomes established, especially if you hold one or two re-entry cards.

Don't change suits unless your suit is hopelessly against you. When it requires two leads to clear your suit, and you hold no cards of re-entry, abandon it and play for your partner's suit—the suit that he has shown by his discard, or the suit which must be his, judging from your own and the dummy hand.

In leading to your partner's declared suit, always lead your highest card; this will enable him to tell what high cards are held against his suit and it will prevent your blocking his hand.

RETURN YOUR PARTNER'S LEAD

If your partner has had the original lead, RETURN HIS SUIT. There are very few "no-trump" hands where it is possible to bring in more than one suit, and if, instead of returning your partner's suit, you lead your own, you are playing for one suit and your partner for another, and as a result you will probably establish neither.

When it is evident that your suit is stronger than your partner's—i.e., if you have re-entry cards and can establish the suit in one lead—then, by all means, play for your own suit; but don't be deterred from returning your partner's lead simply because you see that the best card of his suit is against him. That card will have to make anyway, and by forcing it out of dummy at once you may enable partner to make the rest of his suit.

In returning your partner's lead, return your highest card. The importance of this is apparent: your partner can see the cards in his own and in the dummy hand, and if you return your best card he also knows what the dealer holds in that suit. It may prevent his leading up to the dealer's tenace; it may show him that the suit should be abandoned or that it should be again led from your hand. Returning the highest card minimises the risk of blocking the suit. Very often, by not getting rid of a 7, 8, 9, or 10 early in the hand, you make it impossible for your partner to make his small cards.

Don't be deceived by the dealer's play. His object is to fool you; and if he holds cards of equal value, he will probably take the trick with the highest.

Notice carefully your partner's first discard. It shows you the suit to lead and may also affect your own discard.

Don't, because the dealer leads the suit, refuse to take tricks with your aces and kings. By taking the trick, you may make a card good in your partner's hand. It is only the dealer who is in a position to know when to refuse tricks; he sees the two hands.

When there is no chance that your partner can take a trick in the suit led, it is sometimes wise to keep the commanding card until one hand cannot put the other in the lead, especially when there is no re-entry card in the hand with the long suit.

OPENING LEAD AT "NO-TRUMP"

Unless your partner has doubled (see Heart and Weak Suit Conventions) lead from your longest suit. It is not advisable, especially when you hold no cards of re-entry, to lead aces and kings, except when you hope to catch all of the smaller cards. Two rounds may exhaust the suit in your partner's hand; and if you have no re-entry card and he has none of your suit to lead you, your long suit, even though established, is absolutely worthless.

The lead of an ace, king, or queen indicates great strength, either seven cards or three honours.

Holding two suits of equal length and strength, lead a red suit in preference to a black, especially if the make has been passed,

Holding two suits of equal length, keep for re-entry the suit with the higher cards, as,

With a weak long suit and no re-entry card, many good bridge players open the highest card of a short suit, preferably hearts or diamonds. The theory is that, had the dealer been strong in the red suits, he would have declared a red trump; and with a worthless hand, this short suit lead may assist partner. While there is much to be said in favour of this play, I would suggest that, unless your partner thoroughly understands the game and your play, it is safer to open your long suit.

When you are opening a long, weak suit from a hand without re-entry cards it is advisable that you convey this information to your partner. This you can do by leading the top or an intermediate card of your long suit; your partner, by applying the "Rule of Eleven," can see that you are not leading the fourth best card, and unless it is for the best interest of the two hands will not return the suit. For example:

THE ORIGINAL LEAD IN NO-TRUMPS

UNBLOCKING

Unblocking is getting rid of high cards so that your partner can make smaller ones.

You seldom unblock except at "no-trump."

Study the "no-trump" leads, and on the lead of any high card prepare to get out of your partner's way. It is rarely that you can lose more than one trick by unblocking, and a failure to take advantage of the position when it presents itself may result in the loss of three to six tricks.

With four cards of the suit of which your partner leads the A, K, or Q, keep the lowest card until the final round.

THE DEALER'S PLAY OF A NO-TRUMP HAND

The dealer's play of a "no-trump" hand is both the most interesting and the most intricate part of Bridge. Very often a single error will result in the loss of three or more tricks; so that it behooves the dealer—as he has no assistance from his partner—to make himself thoroughly conversant with the strategy of the game.

The following rules cover all the important points in the dealer's play.

Keep the commanding card of your adversary's suit.

This the beginner invariably refuses to do; he is too anxious to take a trick and does not realise that he will often gain several by passing.

Before playing the commanding card of your adversaries' suit, wait—if you can—until the leader's partner has played his last card of that suit; he is then unable to return the lead, and there may be no card of re-entry in his partner's hand.

Rarely refuse to take tricks with your Kings and Queens.

When an entire suit is against you, it pays to take the lead; the adversaries may change the suit.

When you see in your hands enough tricks to win the game, always take the lead.

Always take the lead when doing so makes a card good in either of your hands.

Play for the longest suit in the two hands.

After taking the lead, count the cards of each suit in the combined hands and make it your object to play for the longest. It may sometimes be necessary, in order to lead the suit to the best advantage, to wait until it can be led from the other hand.

With two suits of equal length, play for the one in the hand that has cards of re-entry.

With two suits of equal length, play for the one that is shown on the table. Don't give your opponents unnecessary information of your strength.

With two suits of equal length, play for the one which, when established, will give you the greater number of tricks, as
7 cards in one hand and 1 in the other.
6 cards in one hand and 2 in the other.
5 cards in one hand and 3 in the other.
4 cards in one hand and 4 in the other.

Holding only seven cards of a suit, you will often find an adversary with four cards of that suit.

Holding only six cards of a suit, remember that your adversaries have seven and that leading the suit will establish it against you.

When the best card of your suit is against you, lead to get it out of your way. It pays to establish one suit. The beginner will usually play his high cards, and, after establishing one or two tricks in that suit for his adversaries, proceed to do the same with another suit and end by abusing his partner for making it "no-trump" with so weak a hand.

Lead from the weak hand to the strong.

This is the secret of playing the two hands well. Play for the longest suit in the two hands; but arrange the lead so that it comes from the hand that has no high cards.

Holding a combination of Ace, Queen, Jack in the two hands, try to catch the King by leading the highest card from the one hand up to the Ace in the other.

This is really a continuation of the last rule, but its importance demands a separate heading. The correct play of this combination will win more tricks than any one other play in Bridge.

If the King is guarded, and you lead the Ace or from the Ace, the King must win; but if you lead from the other hand, there is an even chance that you will find the King on the side you wish. If it is in the other hand, it would probably make anyhow.

Avoid blocking your suit, by leading or playing the high cards from the shorter of the two hands.

As with A K x in one hand and Q x x x x x in the other, play A K x.

As with A Q x in one hand and K x x x x x in the other, play A Q x.

Keep a re-entry card in the hand that has the long suit.

If you are able to take the trick in either hand, do not take it with the hand that has the long suit, unless that suit is established. If you cannot place the lead in the hand with the long suit, it is useless to establish that suit. It is often advisable to refuse to part with the highest card of a long suit, if that card is the only re-entry for the suit.

FINESSING

At "no-trump" the dealer has many opportunities to win tricks with cards that are not the best. In attempting this he should be guided by the following principles.

It is better to finesse on the second round of the suit than on the first.

By forcing discards, you can often tell which adversary is holding and protecting an honour in the suit in question, and on which side the finesse should be taken.

When there is a question on which side to take the finesse, be careful to shut out the hand with the established suit.

Do not finesse with nine cards of a suit in the two hands, including both the Ace and King. As there are but four more cards of the suit, the Queen will probably fall on one of the two leads.

Holding ten cards of one suit, including the Ace, Queen, Jack combination, lead the Queen toward the Ace; but if the Queen is not covered by the King, play the Ace on it.

"BRIDGE DON'TS"

Don't form the habit of playing slowly.

Don't expect your partner to play well when you criticise him. A little encouragement will win you rubbers and will add to your popularity.

Don't forget that it requires more skill to play a poor hand than it does to play a good one.

Don't miss an opportunity to win the game or to save it.

Don't complain if you hold poor cards and don't exult over good ones.

Don't criticise at all; but, if you must, wait until the hand is finished.

Don't hurry when exacting a penalty.

Don't think entirely of your own hand.

Don't take advantage of your partner's breach of etiquette.

Don't think that bad play won't sometimes win tricks.

Don't forget the score for an instant.

Don't ignore the value of small cards.

Don't fail to see your partner's first discard.

Don't be deceived by the dealer's play.

RULES

It is impossible to suggest rules that will cover the play of every hand. Rules are formulated after the analysis of a great many hands, and are therefore made to meet the usual distribution of the cards. When the fall of the cards reveals an unusual situation, unusual means must be adopted to meet it; and here your reason and common sense must come to your aid.

The best Bridge players have the greatest regard for the rules; but the strong player recognises a situation for which a rule is not provided, and he allows his reason to dictate to him the times to follow and the times to violate them.

MANNERISMS

There is nobody who cares to be told that he plays cards unfairly; but, if you permit your manner to give your partner or the opponents the slightest intimation of the cards you hold, you lay yourself open to such criticism. Cards do not carry with them a license to be unfair or rude, yet, at the Bridge table, many socially correct people are both.

Try always to pause the same length of time before making the trump or passing. Do not allow your manner to express approval or disapproval of your partner's make or of the cards he plays, and select each of your own cards with equal deliberation. When you hold good cards be content to win tricks with them, without manifesting glee at your adversaries' defeat. When your cards are poor, do not complain of them; you imply that the opponents profit by your weak hands and not by their own skill, and, as a rule, the more you rail at your luck the worse it becomes. Be generous with your praise of a well-played hand, and be sure your partner will play a better game if he does not fear your adverse criticism. Do not permit yourself to take advantage of, or be deceived by, any mannerisms of your partner or of the opponents, and let your own manner be uniformly such that nobody can tell from it whether you are winning or losing.

MEMORY

It is not necessary to have a fine memory in order to play Bridge well; but it does require the ability to count thirteen. If you know how many cards of a suit have been played, you soon will be able to tell what cards have been played.

Begin with one suit, preferably your own, and count each card of that suit as it is played; you will be surprised to find that you will soon notice not only where the cards of that suit are, but just what cards have been played. A little practice will enable you to do the same with all of the suits.

No matter what may be your position at the table, you may cultivate your memory by observing carefully the cards laid down by the dummy. The number of cards remaining in a suit at any stage of the play will assist you in recalling how many rounds of that suit have been played, and this will help you in recollecting what high cards were played in those rounds.

When you are dummy, and have nothing to do with the play, occupy your time and attention with a determined effort to remember each card played by your partner, the dealer. At the end of the hand see if you can recall how many of each suit he held. With a little practice you will be able to recall what his high cards were as well as the number in each suit. Memory is simply a matter of observation and practice.

INFERENCES

The play of each card conveys some information; and the secret of playing Bridge well lies in being able to draw inferences rapidly and correctly and in utilising the knowledge thus gained. If you simply look, in a mechanical way, at the cards as they fall without inferring what was meant by the play, you are apt to find yourself in the lead and at a complete loss as to what to do next.

The Following are Suggestions for Inferences to be Drawn by the Dealer.

What will the make probably be if you pass?

Your partner is apt to make it the suit in which you are weakest.

Does the opening lead show a long or a short suit?

If short, be on the alert to get the lead and exhaust trumps. If long, how many cards does the leader hold, and what high cards does his lead show?

Ask yourself why does the adversary discard one suit and save another?

This will aid in locating honours and in making successful finesses.

If the left-hand adversary leads through the Ace Queen suit in dummy, he probably does not hold the King and is tempting you to finesse. If he refuses to lead through the Ace Queen suit he is very likely waiting for you to up to his King.

If the make has been doubled try to infer what trump honours are in the doubling hand; this will enable you to judge as to the advisability of the trump lead.

SUGGESTIONS FOR THE NON-DEALER

From what combination of cards is your partner leading? Remember the high cards that he holds.

The lead of a King, for instance, shows you that partner has the Ace, the Queen, or both.

The lead of a Jack indicates the top of a suit.

The lead of a seven, eight, or nine probably means the highest card of a short suit.

Don't draw rigid inferences from the dealer's play; he will endeavour to deceive you by playing false cards.

If it is an original make, your own and the dummy hand will help you to infer what trumps or high cards the dealer holds.

If the dealer seems backward in leading trump he is probably aiming to ruff with the weak hand and a trump lead from you may prevent this.

Endeavour to understand your partner's discards. You can then protect the suit in which he is weak, and, if necessary, unguard honours in the suit in which he has shown strength.

When partner returns your lead in No-trump, notice carefully the card that he plays. It will help you to place the suit and prevent your leading to a possible tenace in the dealer's hand.

COMBINING THE HANDS OF DEALER AND DUMMY

The following table gives the different combinations of cards and shows how they should be played to get the best results when the dealer holds one combination and the dummy holds the other. An "x" means one or more small cards.

The following combinations may be led from either hand:

If forced to lead from any of the following combinations, lead from the weaker of the two hands. In these, lead the highest card of the three in the weak hand:

In the following, lead from the weaker hand, but begin by playing the lowest card:

These rules are based on the supposition that the second hand has not played a higher card than any in the hand to which you lead.

There is a difference of one or two tricks in all these combinations, depending on whether you or your adversaries open the suit. Try to get the adversaries to open such suits for you, as you do so yourself to a disadvantage. Throw the lead into their hands and make them lead to you.

FINESSING

Combining the Hands of Dealer and Dummy.

With any of the following combinations divided between the two hands, the lead should always be from the weaker hand, in the left-hand column, and the highest card should be led, always playing the smallest card from the stronger combination. For instance, in the first one given, you should lead the jack from J 10 x and play the small card from A K x. An "x" means any small card, or more than one small.

In the following combinations, the lead should be the best card in the weaker hand, and the smallest card in the stronger hand should be played to the first round, allowing the adversary to win the first trick. The weak hand must then get into the lead again, so as to take the second finesse, hoping both honours are not on the wrong side:

SECOND-HAND PLAYS

Showing all of the different combinations between dealer and dummy and their play. The second hand is the hand that is led through, it being supposed that a small card is led.

(T) means with a declared trump.
(N T) means with no trumps.

NOTES ON ILLUSTRATIVE HAND NO. 1

Trick 1.—The dealer refuses to give up the A of spades, as he wishes to exhaust the spades in one hand before he attempts to clear his club suit.

Trick 4.—B, hoping to take the last club from the dealer's hand, refuses to part with the A of clubs.

Trick 6.—B tries to put his partner in the lead so that he may make the spades.

ILLUSTRATIVE HAND NO. 1

Keeping the Command of the Adversaries' Suit.

The score is love-all, rubber game. The dealer, Z, makes it no-trump. A leads for the first trick. The underlined card wins the trick and the card under it is the one led for the next trick.

The dealer wins ten tricks.

NOTES ON ILLUSTRATIVE HAND NO. 2

Trick 1.—A leads from his longest suit.

Trick 2.—B returns his partner's lead with his highest card, which the dealer refuses to take, as he wishes to wait until B has no more of the suit.

Trick 3.—A again leads a diamond, as he has the K of spades for re-entry and wishes to establish the diamond suit.

Trick 4.—The dealer plays for the clubs, his longest suit, and takes the first trick, as he holds J and 10 and can clear the suit in one more lead.

Trick 6.—B, having no diamonds, opens his heart suit, hoping to put his partner in the lead. The dealer applying the "Rule of Eleven," and finding that he holds the four cards above the seven, passes so as to take the lead in the dummy hand.

Trick 7.—Leading through.

Tricks 8 and 9.—Making the clubs and putting the dummy hand in the lead so as to come through the K and J of hearts.

ILLUSTRATIVE HAND NO. 2

Playing for the Longest Suit in the Two Hands.

The score is love-all, rubber game. The dealer, Z, makes it no-trump and A leads for the first trick.

The dealer wins nine tricks.

NOTES ON ILLUSTRATIVE HAND NO. 3

Trick 1.—A opens his fourth best heart, as his hand is strong, and he wishes his partner to return that suit.

The Dealer.—As the longest suit in the two hands is diamonds, the dealer takes the first trick with the A of hearts, so that he may be able, if necessary, to put the dummy hand in the lead; also so that the adversaries may not know the cards he holds in the heart suit.

Trick 2.—A refuses to part with the commanding card of the diamond suit.

Trick 3.—The dealer takes the lead in the dummy hand in order to establish his diamond suit.

Trick 4.—As the dealer has now no diamonds, it is useless to hold up any longer.

Trick 6.—If A leads either clubs or spades he must lose a trick; his best play is to continue with the heart suit.

ILLUSTRATIVE HAND NO. 3

Making a Re-entry Card for Dummy's Long Suit.

The score is 24 to 0 against the dealer on the rubber game. The dealer, Z, makes it no-trump and A leads for the first trick.

The dealer wins ten tricks.

NOTES ON ILLUSTRATIVE HAND NO. 4

Trick 2.—As the adversaries must take one trick in the spade suit, the dealer allows them to win the first trick, in order to take the third round with the A, the A being the only re-entry card in the dummy.

Trick 3.—A continues with his long suit. The dealer, hoping that the A of diamonds is in B's hand, refuses to give up the commanding card.

Trick 5.—The dealer, so that the suit will not be blocked, leads the K of spades.

Trick 6.—The diamond discard loses a trick.

Trick 9.—The dealer, holding the A of clubs for re-entry, now clears the diamond suit.

ILLUSTRATIVE HAND NO. 4

Saving a Re-entry Card for the Dummy's Long Suit.

The score is love-all, rubber game. The dealer, Z, makes it no-trump, and A leads for the first trick.

The dealer wins ten tricks.

Notes on Illustrative Hand No. 5

Trick 1.—A opens his longest suit with the fourth best card.

Trick 2.—B returns his partner's lead.

Trick 3.—A continues with his suit in order to establish it, as he holds the K of diamonds and the Q of clubs for re-entry.

Trick 4.—The dealer has the choice of three suits, the spades, clubs, and diamonds being of equal length. If he leads a spade he takes away the re-entry card for the dummy's club suit. If he takes the lead in the dummy and attempts to catch the K of diamonds by leading the Q up to the A, he gives A an opportunity of making his two hearts and of saving the game. In order to win three by-cards and the game, he must prevent A from getting the lead; he therefore leads the club and allows B to win the trick.

Trick 5.—The dealer must play the A of diamonds; for if the clubs fall evenly the rest of the tricks are his.

ILLUSTRATIVE HAND NO. 5

Keeping the Hand Holding an Established Suit from Getting into the Lead.

The score is 24 to 0 against the dealer, Z, who makes it no-trump. A leads for the first trick.

The dealer wins ten tricks.

Notes on Illustrative Hand No. 6

Trick 1.—A leads from his only four-card suit. The dealer plays the ace second in hand in order to trump his losing diamond.

Trick 2.—The dealer false-cards so that the adversaries will not know that he holds the queen.

Trick 3.—As A led the deuce of diamonds, showing but four cards in the suit, the dealer knows that B has one more diamond. He therefore, before leading trumps, allows dummy to trump a losing card.

Tricks 4, 5, and 6.—The dealer now proceeds to lead trumps, and, as he has no strength in clubs in his own hand, he throws away clubs from the dummy hand.

Trick 7.—Holding but six spades in the two hands, the dealer tries to force discards of spades.

Trick 8.—Forcing another discard with the best diamond.

Tricks 9, 10, and 11.—The spades fall, leaving dummy with the best spade and the ace of clubs as re-entry.

ILLUSTRATIVE HAND NO. 6

Allowing the Weaker of the Two Hands to "Ruff" before Leading Trumps.

The score is love-all. The dealer, Z, makes it hearts, having four honours in one hand. A leads to the first trick.

The dealer makes a grand slam.

Notes on Illustrative Hand No. 7

Trick 1.—The scheme which the dealer must adopt for the play of the two hands is to exhaust trumps and to establish the club suit. Holding the A, Q, and J of diamonds, in order to catch the K, the lead must come from the dummy; and so that he may lead up to his tenace in trumps, the dealer trumps the Q of hearts.

Trick 2.—As the finesse succeeds the dealer must place the lead in dummy so that he may again lead through the K of diamonds.

Trick 3.—The dealer holds too many clubs, so must use the A of spades to get the lead in dummy, even though it clears the spade suit for the adversaries.

Tricks 4 and 5.—The trumps fall evenly, leaving the dealer with the last trump.

Trick 6.—The K of clubs, being guarded, must make.

ILLUSTRATIVE HAND NO. 7

Trumping Your Own Trick to get the Lead into the Right Hand.

The score is 18 to 0 in favour of the dealer, Z, who has a game in and makes it diamonds, having four honours.

The dealer makes a little slam.

Notes on Illustrative Hand No. 8

Trick 1.—By playing the king of spades second in hand, the dealer hopes to win two tricks in that suit.

Trick 2.—As the adversaries must make one trick in the club suit, Z tries to place the lead in A's hand so that the queen of spades may be led up to.

The eight of clubs is a clever play. If the king were led, A would know positively that Z held the ace.

Trick 3.—The leader has but little information to guide him in his next play. He does not dare to lead the hearts, as it may establish that suit against him; the lead of the queen of clubs is tempting; but judging from the development of the hand the ace of spades is probably his best play.

ILLUSTRATIVE HAND NO. 8

Throwing the Lead and Refusing to take First Trick in Long Suit.

The score is 22 to 0 against the dealer, Z, who makes it no-trump. A leads for the first trick.

The dealer wins eleven tricks.

Notes on Illustrative Hand No. 9

Trick 1.—The correct second in hand play of this combination is the queen, hoping to win two tricks in the suit. Z, in order to win three by-cards and the rubber, must take a finesse in spades; and so not only refuses to play the queen second in hand, but will not take the trick fourth in hand. His object is to wait until B's last heart has been played.

Trick 2.—If B starts the diamond suit, the dealer cannot make more than the odd trick; but the situation looks as if A holds both ace and king of hearts.

Trick 3.—A, having a possible re-entry card, must establish his suit.

Trick 4.—Z leads the club suit in order to force discards, and arranges the lead so that his tenace in spades may be led up to.

Trick 9.—Z cannot afford to let A get the lead.

ILLUSTRATIVE HAND NO. 9

Refusing to Win Either the First or the Second Round of the Adversaries' Suit.

It is the rubber game. Score 24 to 0 against the dealer. Z, the dealer, makes it no-trump, and A leads for the first trick.

The dealer wins ten tricks.

Notes on Illustrative Hand No. 10

Trick 1.—As A may have both king and queen of diamonds, Z passes the first trick, hoping to win with his ten.

Trick 2.—Many players would lead the club suit because of dummy's weakness; but in the original play of this hand B led the queen of hearts.

Trick 3.—Z starts the spade suit and finds the queen is guarded in A's hand.

Trick 4.—In order to prevent the queen of spades from winning, Z must get the lead in his own hand. If he takes the finesse in clubs and it loses, the adversaries must make the entire heart suit. The finesse can win only one trick, and it might lose five or six tricks.

Trick 5—To catch the queen of spades is now easy.

Trick 7—- A clever play to get the lead and to play through the king of diamonds.

ILLUSTRATIVE HAND NO. 10

Leading Through.

The score is love-all. The dealer, Z, passes the make. Y declares no-trump. A leads for the first trick.

The dealer makes a little slam.

Notes on Illustrative Hand No. 11

Trick 1.—A leads from his long suit, and Z wins the trick with the singleton ace.

Trick 2.—The dealer, having eight clubs and eight spades in the two hands, has now a choice of suits. The king of spades must make against him while he has a finesse in the club suit. If he leads the clubs first he is compelled to guess in which hand to take the finesse; he therefore leads the spade, hoping by establishing that suit to force discards and find out where the two queens are.

Trick 3.—B might make it more difficult for A by not playing the king of spades.

Tricks 5, 6, 7, and 8.—A's two discards of clubs show that the queen is not in his hand, while B's heart discard indicates that he does not hold the queen of hearts. The queen of hearts is also marked in A's hand by the fact that he is discarding his winning diamonds and protecting hearts.

ILLUSTRATIVE HAND NO. 11

Choice of Suits.—Watching the Adversaries' Discards.

The score is love-all. The dealer, Z, makes it no-trump, and A leads for the first trick.

The dealer makes a little slam.

Notes on Illustrative Hand No. 12

Tricks 1 and 2.—A leads high, hoping in three leads to drop all the diamonds.

Trick 3.—B discards a spade, plainly indicating the suit he wishes A to lead.

If the discard of a heart is made, indicating weakness, A is compelled to choose between the clubs and spades, and as he cannot afford to lead from the king of spades once protected will undoubtedly lead the jack of clubs.

The discard from weakness in this hand, should A guess the wrong suit, may lose six or seven tricks.

ILLUSTRATIVE HAND NO. 12

The Discard of Strength versus Weakness.

The score is 24 to 0 against the dealer on the rubber game. The dealer, Z, makes it no-trump, and A leads for the first trick.

The dealer loses three by-cards and the rubber.

BRIDGE FOR THREE PLAYERS

When the game is played by three persons the cards are cut to decide which shall have the dummy; the one cutting the lowest card has the deal and a permanent dummy during the game or the rubber, as the case may be. It is then customary for each player to have dummy in turn, during one game or rubber.

In playing rubbers, 100 points are added to the score of the winning side.

In playing games, 50 points are added to score of the winning side.

If the make is passed to dummy, four aces or three aces constitute a compulsory "no-trump" declaration; otherwise, dummy must declare the longest suit.

When there are two suits of equal length, dummy must select the suit which counts most by spots, the ace counting eleven and the other honours ten each. If the suits are still equal, dummy declares the one having the higher trick valuation.

Only one adversary, the leader, can double.

If the dealer has seen the two hands, he is not allowed to re-double.

The dummy hand is not exposed until the doubling has been settled and a card led.

When the dummy is the leader, his partner must look at dummy hand and lead from it before seeing his own cards; and dummy alone has the right to double.

DUPLICATE BRIDGE

Bridge, when first introduced, was played almost entirely for a stake; but, in the last few years, many players have taken up the game—per se—on account of its interesting possibilities and the intellectual pleasure it gives. Duplicate and Progressive Bridge have, therefore, become very popular.

The object of Duplicate Bridge is to eliminate, as nearly as is possible, the element of luck, and to make the game not so much a question of holding good cards as a comparative test of skill between players. A perfect test cannot be made by a single trial, as an unusual distribution of the cards might defeat two strong players, but in a series of duplicate games, good makes and good plays will undoubtedly mark the better Bridge players.

As Duplicate Bridge is played for points, not games or rubbers, the honour score requires as much attention as the trick score.

Remember that holding three red honours you can stand the loss of two odd tricks (unless the mate is doubled) without losing on the deal, and that there is almost an even chance that your partner will hold another honour.

It you make it red with but one honour, your adversaries will probably secure the honour score.

If you declare "no-trump" with but one ace the honours will probably be even; but you may find three aces against you.

Remember that four honours in clubs count as much as the average deal is worth.

PROGRESSIVE BRIDGE

Progressive Bridge may be played in much the same manner as Progressive Euchre. While to win at this game is very largely a matter of holding good cards, it forms an interesting social amusement; and, to players who are unaccustomed to the arrangement of the cards in Duplicate Bridge, is much less confusing.

In Progressive Bridge the players are usually numbered, 1, 2, 3, 4 playing at Table 1, and 5, 6, 7, 8 at Table 2, etc.

At each table the cards are cut in the usual manner for partners and for the deal; and a stated number of hands played for points, tricks and honours included, without regard to games or rubbers.

After playing the number of deals decided upon, the winning pair move to the next table, where the cards are again cut for partners, and for the deal.

An individual score is kept of the points lost and won during the entire game; the points lost being deducted from those won, and the player making the best net score being declared the winner.

THE LAWS OF BRIDGE

REVISED, 1905

The laws of Bridge published in this edition have been prepared by the author, who has used as a foundation the codes accepted by the principal clubs of the world. The author does not favour the exaction of a penalty for the dealer's lead out of turn. The American opinion on this point is divided, but the English practice is to exact no penalty. Otherwise the various club codes show but minor differences.

THE RUBBER

1. The partners first winning two games win the rubber. If the first two games be won by the same partners, the third game is not played.

SCORING

2. A game consists of thirty points obtained by tricks alone, exclusive of any points counted for honours, chicane or slam.

3. Every hand is played out, and any points in excess of thirty points necessary for the game are counted.

4. Each trick above six counts two points when spades are trumps, four points when clubs are trumps, six points when diamonds are trumps, eight points when hearts are trumps, and twelve points when there are no trumps.

5. Honours are ace, king, queen, knave and ten of the trump suit; or the aces when no trump is declared.

6. Honours are credited to the original holders and are valued as follows:

7. If a player and his partner make thirteen tricks, independently of any tricks gained by the revoke penalty, they score Grand Slam and add forty points to their honour count.

8. Little slam is twelve tricks similarly scored, and adds twenty points to the honour count.

9. Chicane (one hand void of trumps) is equal in value to three honours, i.e., if partner of player having chicane scores honours he adds the value of three honours to his honour score, while, if the adversaries score honours, it deducts an equal value from their honour score. Double Chicane (a player and his partner both void of trumps) is equal in value to four honours, and the value thereof may be deducted from the total honour score of the adversaries.

10. The value of honours, slam, little slam, or chicane, is in nowise affected by doubling or redoubling.

11. At the conclusion of a rubber the scores for tricks, honours, Chicane, and Slam, obtained by each side are added, and one hundred points are added to the score of the winners of the rubber. The difference between the completed scores is the number of points won or lost by the winners of the rubber.

12. If an erroneous score affecting tricks be proven, such mistake must be corrected prior to the conclusion of the game in which it has occurred, and such game shall not be considered as concluded until the following deal has been completed and the trump declared, unless it be that the game is the last one of the rubber,—then the score is subject to inquiry until an agreement between the sides (as to the value of the rubber) shall have been reached.

13. If an erroneous score affecting honours, chicane or slam be proven, such mistake may be corrected at any time before the score of the rubber has been made up and agreed upon.

CUTTING

14. The ace is the lowest card.

15. In all cases every player must cut from the same pack.

16. Should a player expose more than one card, he must cut again.

FORMING TABLES

17. The prior right of playing is with those first in the room. If there are more than four candidates for seats at a table, the privilege of playing is decided by cutting. The four who cut the lowest cards play first.

18. After the table is formed, the players cut to decide on partners; the two lowest play against the two highest. The lowest is the dealer, who has choice of cards and seats, and who, having once made his selection, must abide by it.

19. Should the two players who cut lowest, secure cards of equal value, they shall re-cut to determine which of the two shall deal, and the lower on the re-cut deals.

20. Should three players cut cards of equal value, they cut again; if the fourth card be the highest, the two lowest of the new cut are partners and the lower of the two the dealer; if, however, the fourth card be the lowest, the two highest on the re-cut are partners and the original lowest the dealer.

21. Six players constitute a full table, and no player shall have a right to cut into a game which is complete.

22. When there are more than six candidates, the right to succeed any player who may retire is acquired by announcing the desire to do so, and such announcement shall constitute a prior right to the first vacancy.

CUTTING OUT

23. If at the end of a rubber, should admission be claimed by one or two candidates, the player or players having played a greater number of consecutive rubbers shall withdraw; but when all have played the same number, they must cut to decide upon the outgoers; the highest are out.

RIGHTS OF ENTRY

24. A candidate desiring to enter a table must declare such wish before any player at the table cuts a card, either for the purpose of beginning a new rubber or of cutting out.

25. In the formation of new tables, those candidates who have neither belonged to nor played at any other table have the prior right of entry. Those who have already played decide their right of admission by cutting.

26. A player who cuts into one table while belonging to another, shall forfeit his prior right of re-entry into the latter, unless by doing so he enables three candidates to form a fresh table. In this event he may signify his intention of returning to his original table, and his place at the new one can be filled.

27. Should any player quit the table during the progress of a rubber, he may, with the consent of the other three players, appoint a substitute during his absence; but such appointment shall become void with the conclusion of the rubber, and shall not in any way affect the substitute's rights.

28. If anyone break up a table, the remaining players have a prior right to play at other tables.

SHUFFLING

29. The pack must neither be shuffled below the table nor so the face of any card be seen.

30. The dealer's partner must collect the cards for the ensuing deal and he has the first right to shuffle the cards. Each player has the right to shuffle subsequently. The dealer has the right to shuffle last, but should a card or cards be seen during his shuffling, or whilst giving the pack to be cut, he must re-shuffle.

31. Each player, after shuffling, must place the cards properly collected and face downward to the left of the player next to deal.

THE DEAL

32. Each player deals in his turn; the order of dealing goes to the left.

33. The player on the dealer's right cuts the pack, and in dividing it he must not leave fewer than four cards in either packet; if in cutting or in replacing one of the two packets a card be exposed, or if there be any confusion of the cards or a doubt as to the exact place in which the pack was divided, there must be a fresh cut.

34. When the player whose duty it is to cut has once separated the pack he can neither re-shuffle nor re-cut the cards.

35. Should the dealer shuffle the cards, after the pack is cut, the pack must be cut again.

36. The fifty-two cards shall be dealt face downward. The deal is not completed until the last card has been dealt face downward.

37. There is No Misdeal.

A NEW DEAL

38. There must be a new deal—

a If the cards be not dealt into four packets, one at a time, and in regular rotation, beginning at the dealer's left.

b If, during a deal, or during the play of a hand, the pack be proven incorrect or imperfect.

c If any card be faced in the pack.

d If any player have dealt to him a greater number of cards than thirteen.

e If the dealer deal two cards at once and then deal a third before correcting the error.

f If the dealer omit to have the pack cut and the adversaries call attention to the fact prior to the conclusion of the deal and before looking at their cards.

g If the last card do not come in its regular order to the dealer.

39. There may be a new deal—

a If the dealer or his partner expose a card. The eldest hand may claim a new deal.

b If either adversary expose a card. The dealer or his partner may claim a new deal.

c If, before fifty-one cards are dealt, the dealer should look at any card. His adversaries have the right to see it, and the eldest hand may exact a new deal.

d If, in dealing, one of the last cards be exposed by the dealer or his partner, and the deal is completed before there is reasonable time for the eldest hand to decide as to a new deal. But in all other cases such penalties must be claimed prior to the completion of the deal.

40. The claim for a new deal by reason of a card exposed during the deal may not be made by a player who has looked at any of his cards. If a new deal does not take place, the card exposed during the deal cannot be called.

41. Should three players have their right number of cards, and should the fourth, not being dummy, have less than thirteen and not discover such deficiency until he has played any of his cards, the deal stands good; should he have played, he is answerable for any revoke he may have made as if the missing card or cards had been in his hand. The other pack may be searched for the missing card or cards.

42. If during the play of a deal a pack be proven incorrect or imperfect, such proof renders only the current deal void, and does not affect any prior score. The dealer must deal again (Law 38, b).

43. Anyone dealing with the adversaries' cards must be corrected before the play of the first card, otherwise the deal stands good. If anyone deals when it is the turn of an adversary, such error must be corrected before the cards are dealt for the following deal.

44. A player can neither shuffle, cut nor deal for his partner without the permission of his adversaries.

DECLARING TRUMPS

45. The trump is declared. No card is turned.

a The dealer may either make the trump or pass the declaration to his partner.

b If the declaration be passed to partner, he must make the trump.

46. Should the dealer's partner make the trump without receiving permission from the dealer, the eldest hand may demand,

But if any declaration as to doubling, or not doubling, shall have been made, or if a new deal be not claimed, the declaration wrongly made shall stand. The eldest hand is the player on the left of the dealer.

47. Should the dealer's partner pass the declaration to the dealer it shall be the right of the eldest hand to claim a new deal or to compel the offending player to declare the trump; provided, that no declaration as to doubling has been made.

48. If either of the dealer's adversaries make or pass the declaration, the dealer may, after looking at his hand, either claim a new deal or proceed as if no declaration had been made.

49. A declaration once made cannot be altered.

DOUBLING, RE-DOUBLING, ETC.

50. The effect of doubling, re-doubling, and so on, is that the value of each trick above six is doubled, quadrupled, and so on.

51. After the trump declaration has been made by the dealer or his partner, their adversaries have the right to double. The eldest hand has the first right. If he does not wish to double, he may ask his partner, "May I lead?" His partner shall answer, "Yes" or "I double."

52. If either of their adversaries elect to double, the dealer and his partner have the right to re-double. The player who has declared the trump shall have the first right. He may say, "I re-double" or "Satisfied." Should he say the latter, his partner may re-double.

53. If the dealer or his partner elect to re-double, their adversaries shall have the right to again double. The original doubler has the first right.

54. If the right-hand adversary of the dealer double before his partner has asked "May I lead?" the declarer of the trump shall have the right to say whether or not the double shall stand. If he decide that the double shall stand, the process of re-doubling may continue as described in paragraphs 52, 53, 55.

55. The process of re-doubling may be continued indefinitely.[B] The first right to continue the re-doubling on behalf of a partnership belongs to that player who has last redoubled. Should he, however, express himself satisfied, the right to continue the re-doubling passes to his partner. Should any player re-double out of turn, the adversary who last doubled shall decide whether or not such double shall stand. If it is decided that the re-double shall stand, the process of re-doubling may continue as described in this and foregoing laws (52 and 53). If any double or re-double out of turn be not accepted there shall be no further doubling in that hand. Any consultation between partners as to doubling or re-doubling will entitle the maker of the trump or the eldest hand, without consultation, to a new deal.

56. If the eldest hand lead before the doubling be completed, his partner may re-double only with the consent of the adversary who last doubled; but such lead shall not affect the right of either adversary to double.

57. When the question, "May I lead?" has been answered in the affirmative or when the player who has the last right to continue the doubling, expresses himself satisfied, the play shall begin.

58. Should the eldest hand lead without asking permission, his partner may double, but only if the maker of the trump consent.

59. Should the right-hand adversary of the dealer ask permission to lead, the eldest hand does not thereby lose his right to double. Should the right-hand adversary of the dealer double before his partner has asked "May I lead?" the maker of the trump shall have the right to say whether or not the double shall stand. If he decide that the double shall stand, the process of re-doubling may continue as described in Laws 52, 53, 55.

60. If the right-hand adversary of the dealer lead out of turn, the maker of the trump may call a suit from the eldest hand, who may only double if the maker of the trump consent.

A declaration as to doubling or re-doubling once made cannot be altered.

DUMMY

61. As soon as the eldest had has led, the dealer's partner shall place his cards face upward on the table, and the duty of playing the cards from that hand shall devolve upon the dealer, unassisted by his partner.

62. Before exposing his cards, the dealer's partner has all the rights of a player, but after his cards have been shown the dealer's partner takes no part whatever in the play, except that he has the right—

a To ask the dealer whether he has none of the suit in which he may have renounced.

b To ask the dealer when called upon to play his highest or lowest card whether he has conformed to the penalty.

c To call the dealer's attention to the fact that a trick has not been completed.

d To correct the claim of either adversary to a penalty to which the latter is not entitled.

e To call attention to the fact that a trick has been erroneously taken by either side.

f To participate in the discussion of any disputed question of fact which may arise between the dealer and either adversary.

g To correct an erroneous score.

63. Should the dealer's partner call attention to any other incident of the play, in consequence of which any penalty might be exacted, the fact of his so doing precludes the dealer exacting such penalty.

64. If the dealer's partner, by touching a card or otherwise, suggest the play of a card from dummy, either of the adversaries may, but without consultation, call upon the dealer to play or not to play the card suggested.

65. Dummy is not liable to the penalty for a revoke; and if he should revoke and the error be not discovered until the trick is turned and quitted, the trick stands good.

66. A card from the dealer's hand is not played until actually quitted; but should the dealer name or touch a card from the dummy hand, such card is considered as played, unless the dealer in touching the card or cards says, "I arrange," or words to that effect.

CARDS EXPOSED BEFORE PLAY

67. If, after the deal has been completed and before the trump declaration has been made, either the dealer or his partner expose a card from his hand, the eldest hand may, without consulting with his partner, claim a new deal.

68. If, after the deal has been completed and before a card is led, any player shall expose a card, his partner shall forfeit any right to double or re-double which he otherwise would have been entitled to exercise; and in case of a card being so exposed by the leader's partner, the dealer may either call the card or require the leader not to lead the suit of the exposed card.

CARDS EXPOSED DURING PLAY

69. All cards exposed by the dealer's adversaries are liable to be called, and such cards must be left face upward on the table.

70. The following are exposed cards:

71. A card dropped on the floor or elsewhere below the table is not an exposed card.

72. If two or more cards be played at once, by either of the dealer's adversaries, the dealer shall have the right to call which one be pleases to the current trick, and the other card or cards shall remain face upward on the table and may be called at any time.

73. If, without waiting for his partner to play, either of the dealer's adversaries should play on the table the best card or lead one which is a winning card, as against the dealer and dummy, or should continue (without waiting for his partner to play) to lead several such cards, the dealer may demand that the partner of the player in fault, win, if he can, the first, or any other of these tricks, and the other cards thus improperly played are exposed cards.

74. If either or both of the dealer's adversaries throw his or their cards on the table face upward, such cards are exposed and are liable to be called; but if either adversary retain his hand he cannot be forced to abandon it. If, however, the dealer should say, "I have the rest," or any other words indicating that the remaining tricks are his, the adversaries of the dealer are not liable to have any of their cards called should they expose them, believing the dealer's claim to be true, should it subsequently prove false.

75. If a player who has rendered himself liable to have the highest or lowest of a suit called (Laws 82, 91, 92 and 100), fail to play as directed, or if, when called on to lead one suit, lead another, having in his hand one or more cards of the suit demanded (Law 76), or if called upon to win or lose a trick, fail to do so when he can (Laws 73, 82 and 100), he is liable to the penalty for revoke, unless such play be corrected before the trick is turned and quitted.

LEADS OUT OF TURN

76. If either of the dealer's adversaries lead out of turn, the dealer may call the card erroneously led, or may call a suit when it is the turn of either adversary to lead.

77. If the dealer lead out of turn, either from his own hand or dummy, he incurs no penalty; but he may not rectify the error after the second hand has played.

78. If any player lead out of turn and the other three follow him, the trick is complete and the error cannot be rectified; but if only the second, or second and third play to the false lead, their cards may be taken back; there is no penalty against anyone except the original offender, who, if he be one of the dealer's adversaries, may be penalised as provided in Laws 60 and 76.

79. In no case can a player he compelled to play a card which would oblige him to revoke.

80. The call of an exposed card may be repeated at every trick until such card has been played.

81. If a player called on to lead a suit have none of it, the penalty is paid.

CARDS PLAYED IN ERROR

82. Should the third hand not have played and the fourth play before his partner, the latter (not being dummy or dealer) may be called upon to play his highest or lowest card of the suit played, or to win or lose the trick.

83. If anyone, not being dummy, omit playing to a former trick and such error be not corrected until he has played to the next, the adversaries may claim a new deal; should they decide that the deal stands good, the surplus card at the end of the hand is considered to have been played to the imperfect trick, but does not constitute a revoke therein.

84. If anyone (except dummy) play two cards to the same trick, or mix a card with a trick to which it does not belong, and the mistake be not discovered until the hand is played out, he is answerable for any consequent revokes he may have made. If during the play of the hand the error be detected, the tricks may be counted face downward, in order to ascertain whether there be among them a card too many; should this be the case, the trick which contains a surplus card may be examined and the card restored to its original holder, who (not being dummy) shall be liable for any revoke he may meanwhile have made.

THE REVOKE

85. A revoke occurs when a player (other than dummy), holding one or more cards of the suit led, plays a card of a different suit. The penalty for a revoke takes precedence of all other counts.

86. A revoke is established if the trick in which it occurs be turned and quitted, i.e., the hand removed from the trick after it has been gathered and placed face downward on the table; or if either the revoking player or his partner, whether in his right turn or otherwise, have led or played to the following trick.

87. The penalty for a revoke is three tricks taken from the revoking player and added to those of the adversaries.

88. The penalty is applicable only to the score of the game in which it occurs.

89. Under no circumstances can the revoking side score game in that hand. Whatever their previous score may have been, the side revoking cannot attain a higher score toward game than twenty-eight.

90. A player may ask his partner whether he has not a card of the suit which he has renounced; should the question be asked before the trick is turned and quitted, subsequent turning and quitting does not establish a revoke, and the error may be corrected unless the question be answered in the negative or unless the revoking player or his partner has led or played to the following trick.

91. If a player correct his mistake in time to save a revoke, any player or players who have followed him may withdraw their cards and substitute others, and the cards so withdrawn are not exposed cards. If the player in fault be one of the dealer's adversaries, the card played in error is an exposed card, and the dealer can call it whenever he pleases; or he may require the offender to play his highest or lowest card or the suit to the trick in which he has renounced.

92. If the player in fault be the dealer, the eldest hand may require him to play the highest or lowest card of the suit in which he has renounced, provided both adversaries of the dealer have played to the current trick; but this penalty cannot be exacted against the dealer when he is fourth in hand, nor can it be enforced at all from dummy.

93. At the end of a hand the claimants of a revoke may search all the tricks. If the cards have been mixed the claim may be urged and proved if possible; but no proof is necessary, and the revoke is established if, after it has been claimed, the accused player or his partner mix the cards before they have been sufficiently examined by the adversaries.

94. A revoke must be claimed before the cards have been cut for the following deal.

95. Should the players on both sides subject themselves to the revoke penalty neither can win the game by that hand.

96. The revoke penalty may be claimed for as many revokes as occur during a hand; but the accumulated penalty shall in no event exceed thirteen tricks. (See Law 7.)

GENERAL RULES

97. There should not be any consultation between partners as to the enforcement of penalties. If they do so consult, the penalty is paid.

98. Once a trick is complete, turned and quitted it must not be looked at (except under Law 84), until the end of the hand.

99. Any player during the play of a trick or after the four cards are played and before they are touched for the purpose of gathering them together, may demand that the cards be placed before their respective players.

100. If either of the dealer's adversaries, prior to his partner's playing, should call attention to the trick, either by saying it is his, or, without being requested so to do, by naming his card or drawing it toward him, the dealer may require that opponent's partner to play his highest or lowest card of the suit led, or to win or lose the trick.

101. Either of the dealer's adversaries may call his partner's attention to the fact that he is about to lead out of turn, but if he make any unauthorised reference to any incident of the play the dealer may call a suit from the adversary whose turn it is next to lead.

102. In all cases where a penalty has been incurred, the offender is bound to give reasonable time for the decision of his adversaries; but if a wrong penalty be demanded none can be enforced.

103. The partner of the eldest hand may inform him that their adversaries have incurred a penalty, but may not give any further information. Should he suggest the penalty, or demand the enforcement of it, such action shall be deemed a consultation, and no penalty can be enforced.

NEW CARDS

104. Unless a pack be imperfect, no player shall have the right to call for one new pack. If fresh cards are demanded, two packs must be furnished and paid for by the player who has demanded them. If they are furnished during a rubber, the adversaries shall have their choice of new cards. If it is the beginning of a new rubber, the dealer, whether he or one of his adversaries be the party calling for the new cards, shall have the choice. New cards must be called for before the pack is cut for a new deal.

105. A card or cards torn or marked must be replaced by agreement or new cards furnished.

BYSTANDERS

106. While a bystander, by agreement among the players, may decide any question, yet he must on no account say anything unless appealed to; and if he make any remark which calls attention to an oversight affecting the score, or to the exaction of a penalty, he is liable to be called on by the players to pay the stakes on that rubber.

SPADE CONVENTION

I.—Where players agree "not to play spades" the rule is, that if the spade make is not doubled, the hand shall be played where either side is 20 or over.

II.—If the third hand player ask, "Shall I play?" or should he lead out of turn, or should the eldest hand lead without asking permission to play, the spade maker may take two on the score or may call a lead and require the hand to be played out.

III.—Should the third hand player double before his partner asks permission to play, the spade maker may decide whether the double shall stand or not; but the hand must be played out.

ETIQUETTE

It has been truthfully said that there is no game in which slight intimations can convey so much information as that of Bridge. In justice to those who, by their manner, give information, it may be stated that most of the apparent unfairness at the Bridge table is unintentional. Hesitation and mannerisms, however, cannot be too carefully avoided; such a breach of etiquette is an offence for which the adversaries have no redress except perhaps a refusal to continue the play.

It is obviously a greater fault to take advantage of information thus given. A play in your judgment may be perfectly sound, but you leave yourself open to criticism if it is in any way contingent on information obtained from your partner's manner.

Cultivate uniformity in your style of play; let there be no remarkable haste or hesitation in making or passing; try always to use the same formula of words, and do not call attention to the score after the cards have been dealt.

Remember that any undue hesitancy in regard to doubling will deprive a fair-minded partner of the privilege of so doing. Such delays are too frequent at spade declarations.

Emphasise no play of your own and show no pleasure or displeasure at any other play.

Do not ask to have the cards placed unless it is solely for your own information.

It is an offence either to revoke purposely or to make a second revoke in order to conceal the first.

The dealer's partner should not call attention to the score nor to any card or cards that he or the other players hold, and neither should he leave his seat for the purpose of watching his partner's play.

When there is an unusual distribution of the cards, no remarks of any kind should be allowed.

After a hand has been played, it may be discussed to the common benefit; but the bore who is continually blowing up his partner to show his superior knowledge, together with the player who interrupts the game to discuss the play, should be ostracised from the card-room. Superiority of skill is shown by the play of the cards, not by mannerisms.

It is often difficult to refrain from showing pleasure at the accomplishment of a desired purpose, but undue elation is most aggravating to the adversaries.

Do not make a dig at the adversaries by confiding to your partner that your success was due to an ill-judged play of the opponent.

It is not good form to complain of poor cards, as you imply that the adversaries profit by your weak hands and not by their skill.

The better players rarely criticise unless asked to do so; it is usually the inexperienced player who offers an astonishing amount of gratuitous and unsought-for advice.

Do not tell your partner, after seeing all the cards, what he should have done, but think what you would have done in your partner's place. Do not criticise at all, but if you must, criticise fairly.

GLOSSARY

Book.—The first six tricks won by the same partners.

By-cards.—The number of tricks won, more than six, or over the "book," is the number "by-cards." For instance, eight tricks are equal to two by-cards.

Card of Re-entry.—A winning card which will bring into play another suit. Sometimes the re-entry is in the suit itself, but when a suit with a re-entry is spoken of it means that the re-entry is in another suit.

Command.—The best card or cards of a suit. The ability to stop the suit at any time.

Covering.—Putting a higher card on the trick when not the last player.

Discarding.—When unable to follow suit, throwing away some card of another suit which is not trumps.

Doubling.—Increasing the value of the trick points.

Doubtful Card.—Cards which may or may not win the trick. The king is led, and you do not know who holds the ace; the king is therefore a doubtful card.

Dummy.—The player whose cards are exposed on the table. The dealer's partner.

Duplicate.—A modification in which each hand is played more than once, usually in tournaments.

Echo.—Playing a higher card before a lower, when no attempt is made to win the trick.

Eldest Hand.—The player on the dealer's left.

Established Suit.—A suit in which the partners can win every trick, no matter who leads it.

Exposed Card.—Any card which is shown, but is not played to the trick, such as two cards played at once, one of which is an exposed card.

False Cards.—Playing the ace, holding the king, or any similar attempt to conceal the cards held.

Finesse.—Any attempt to win a trick with a card which is not the best in the hand, nor in sequence with it.

Forcing.—Making a player trump a suit which he does not want to trump. See Ruffing.

Fourchette.—The cards above and below another card. A Q are fourchette over the K.

Fourth-best.—Counting from the highest card in the suit.

Going Over.—Doubling the value of the trick points.

Guarded Suits.—A high card so protected by smaller cards that it cannot be caught by the adversaries leading higher cards.

Holding Up.—Refusing to play the best card of a suit.

Honours.—In trumps, the A K Q J 10 of the suit. At no-trump, the four aces.

Leader.—The first player in any trick.

Leading Up To.—Playing a suit with a view to what the fourth hand holds in it.

Leading Through.—Leading a suit with a view to what the second hand holds in it.

Little Slam.—Twelve tricks won out of thirteen.

Losing Card.—Any card which cannot possibly take a trick.

Love-all.—The state of the score before either side has made a point.

Odd Trick.—The first trick over the book of six.

Original Lead.—The opening of the hand or suit.

Re-entry.—See Card of Re-entry.

Revoke.—Renouncing, while still holding cards of the suit led.

Rubber.—Two out of three games.

Ruffing.—Trumping a trick willingly. See Forcing.

Slam.—Winning all thirteen tricks.

Tenace.—The best and third best of a suit. A and Q are tenace.

Third Hand.—The leader's partner.

Unblocking.—Getting rid of any card which might stop the run of a long suit.

Weakness.—Inability to stop a suit.

Weak Suits.—Those in which tricks are impossible, or very improbable.

INDEX

• Aces, second hand, playing, 23
• Advantages of discarding strength, 41
• Avoid leading certain combinations, 27
• Avoid leading trumps, 57
• Bad red-suit makes, 22
• Beating dummy's cards, 43
• Black suit declarations, 16
• Bridge, duplicate, 97
• Bridge for three players, 96
• Bridge, laws of, 101
• Bridge, progressive, 98
• Bystanders, 125
• Cards played in error, 120
• Chicane and double chicane, 7
• Choice of seats and cards, 1
• Clubs, 16
• Combining hands of dealer and dummy, 64
• Commanding card, holding up, 54
• Conversation of the game, 4
• Covering honours with honours, 42
• Cutting, 104
• Cutting for the right to play, 1
• Cutting out, 105
• Dealer's play at no-trump, 53
• Dealer's play with a declared trump, 45
• Dealer's play with a trump, 49
• Dealing, 1, 107
• Declaration, the, 9
• Declaring trumps, 110
• Determining value of the rubber, 9
• Diamond make, rules for, 16
• Diamonds, 14
• Different systems of discarding, 39
• Discard after showing a suit, 38
• Discard, the reverse, 41
• Discarding, 38
• Discarding, hints on, 41
• Discarding strength always, 38
• Don't change suits, 48
• Don'ts for bridge players, 58
• Doubling no-trumpers, 23
• Doubling, rules for, 23
• Doubling spades, 23
• Doubling trick values, 3
• Doubling with success, 22
• Doubtful no-trumpers, 43
• Dummy, 114
• Dummy bridge, 64
• Dummy's hand and duties, 4
• Dummy holding tenaces, 43
• Duplicate bridge, 97
• Echo at no trump, 45
• Echo, the, 44
• Echo to show you can ruff, 45
• Eleven, the rule of, 30
• Entry, rights of, 106
• Error, cards played in, 120
• Estimating value of hands, 22
• Examples of original leads, 32
• Examples of original makes, 20
• Exposing cards before play, 116
• Exposing cards during play, 117
• Finessing, 66
• Finessing by the dealer, 57
• Finessing on partner's lead, 44
• First trick, after the, 34
• Forcing the strong trump hand, 35
• Forming tables, 104
• Fourth-best leads, 30
• Game, points in the, 2
• General rules of play, 123
• Giving partner information, 29
• Glossary, 130
• Going over, 111
• Good suits to lead, 29
• Guarded suits, meaning of, 12
• Hand, estimating value of, 22
• Heart contention, 26
• Hearts, 13
• Hearts instead of no-trump, 13
• Hearts led at double no-trump, 26
• Hearts, rules for make, 14
• High cards, second hand, 43
• Hints for discarding, 41
• Holding a combination, 56
• Holding up the command, 55
• Honours are a separate score, 2
• Honours, value of, 7
• Honours when there is trump, 7
• Honours when there is no trump, 7
• Illustrative hands, 73
• Importance of good makes, 10
• Importance of the score, 9
• Inferences, 62
• Inferring what dealer holds, 48
• Judgment in the makes, 10
• Keeping command of a suit, 73
• Laws of bridge, 101
• Lead when partner has doubled, 25
• Leading aces first, 29
• Leading from three honours, 29
• Leading from weakness to strength, 34, 56
• Leading high cards, 27
• Leading red suits instead of black, 51
• Leading short suits, 36
• Leading through strength, 56
• Leading to partner's suit, 48
• Leading trumps, 46
• Leading up to weakness, 31
• Leading weak suits, 51
• Leads out of turn, 117
• Letting the weak hand ruff, 47
• Longest suit should be played first, 54
• Makes, examples of original, 20
• Makes, passed, 19
• Making the trump, 10
• Making up the table, 1
• Mannerisms, 59
• Memory, 60
• Method of scoring, 6
• Misdeals, none in bridge, 2
• New cards, 125
• New deal, 108
• Non-dealer's play against a declared trump, 27
• Non-dealer's play at no-trump, 47
• Non-dealer's play, second hand, 42
• Non-dealer's play, third hand, 43
• No-trump declaration by dealer, rules for, 12
• No-trump makes, 10
• Object of leading through strength, 56
• Object of the game, 2
• Opening leads at "no-trump," 50
• Opening leads, examples of, 32
• Original lends against a declared trump, 28
• Original leads in no-trump, 52
• Original leads with a trump, 28
• Original makes, examples of, 20
• Original no-trump makes, 17
• Partner doubles, suit to lead, 22
• Partner's suit, leading to, 49
• Passed makes, 19
• Placing aces, second hand, 43
• Placing cards by eleven rule, 30
• Play of the cards, 4
• Players, number of, 1
• Playing your suit, not partner's, 49
• Points in the game, 2
• Preventing revokes, 6
• Probable value of partner's hand, 11
• Progressive bridge, 98
• Protection, or guarded suits, 12
• Protecting suits and honours, 42
• Rank of cards in cutting, 1
• Rank of cards in play, 4
• Redoubling trick values, 3, 4
• Re-entry cards, 77
• Returning partner's suits, 48
• Reverse discards, 41
• Revoke, the, 121
• Revoke, to prevent a, 6
• Rights of entry, 106
• Rubber, the, 101
• Rubber points added, 2
• Ruff before leading trumps, 83
• Rules for discarding, 38, 41
• Rules for doubling, 23
• Rules for finessing, 59, 66
• Rules for forcing, 35
• Rules for inferences, 62
• Rules for leading short suits, 36
• Rules for leading trumps, 46
• Rules for no-trump makes, 12
• Rules for passed makes, 19
• Ruled for playing to the score, 9
• Score-sheet, how used, 8
• Scoring, 6, 101
• Scoring, knowledge of, 9
• Scoring, method of, 8
• Second-hand play, dealer and dummy, 65
• Second-hand plays, 67
• Seeing dummy's hand, 27
• Short suits, when to lead, 36
• Shuffling, 107
• Shuffling the still pack, 1
• Slams and their value, 7
• Spade makes, defensive, 17
• Spades, 16
• Specimen score-sheet, 8
• Suggestions for doubting, 23
• Suggestions for the non-dealer, 63
• Table of honour values, 7
• Table of leads at no-trump, 52
• Tables, forming, 104
• Taking the lead, 54
• Three-handed bridge, 96
• Trick values, table of, 3
• Trump, declaring the, 3
• Trump, the, 102
• Trumps, avoid leading, 57
• Trumps, declaring, 110
• Trumps, how made, 5
• Trumps, leading, 46
• Unblocking, 53
• Value of any hand, 22
• Value of partner's hand, 11
• Value of trumps you hold, 23
• Weak no-trump makes, 21
• Weakness, leading up to, 31
• Weak suits at doubled no-trump, 31
• Weak-suit convention, 25

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