The Project Gutenberg eBook, Allied Cookery, by Grace Glergue Harrison and Gertrude Clergue

[1]

Allied Cookery

British French Italian Belgian Russian

[2]

[3]

THE PURPOSE

This region, in part, one of the most fertile in France, and which sustained hundreds of thousands of inhabitants engaged in agricultural pursuits, has been left desolate, with all buildings destroyed and all farming implements, cattle, and farm products taken off by the invaders for military uses.

Its old men, women, and children, who survived the slaughter of invasion, are now undertaking the labour of restoring their farms. To help in the supply of seeds, farm implements, and other simple but essential means of enabling these suffering people to regain by their own efforts the necessaries of life, the compilers offer to the public this book on Cookery.

Its proceeds will be distributed by Le Secours National, of France, whose effective organization assures its best and most helpful disposition.[4]

An acknowledgment must be made for the kind assistance of friends in securing desirable recipes. There are some that will be novel to many households, and all of them will give satisfaction when exactly followed.

The compilers will gladly answer requests for information from any one wishing further to support this cause.

CONTENTS

[5]

INTRODUCTION

Vous désirez faire quelque chose pour venir en aide aux victimes de la guerre en France et, dans ce but, vous publiez un livre utile dont vous faites tous les frais d'impression de manière à ce que le produit total de la vente soit versé au Comité de Secours National de Paris.

Le but que vous vous proposez est fort louable car les besoins sont grands au pays de France. On a fait dernièrement le recensement des réfugiés belges et français chassés de leurs demeures et recueillis dans les diverses communes de France. Ils sont plus de 900,000 et les allemands out renvoyé en France par la voie de la Suisse plus de 100,000 prisonniers—vieillards, femmes et enfants—qu'ils[6] ne voulaient plus nourrir et qui out été rendus, dénués de tout, à la charité publique. Tous ces malheureux doivent être vêtus de la tête aux pieds. Les Etats-Unis et le Canada out heureusement fait leur part pour soulager cette grande infortune, grâce aux appels réitérés de l'American Relief Clearing House de Paris et de New-York et des divers comités canadiens du Secours National de Paris, organisés par le Comité France-Amérique.

Les hôpitaux français réclament aussi, à bon droit, notre sollicitude, car c'est la France qui supporte le plus fort de l'assaut teuton sur la frontière de l'Ouest et ses blessés doivent dépasser le demi million. Devant cette grande détresse la Croix-Rouge américaine et la Croix-Rouge canadienne ne sont pas demeurées indifférentes et des milliers de caisses out été envoyées aux hôpitaux français. Malheureusement la liste des calamités qui out fondu sur la France ne s'arrête pas là: tout le territore envahi par les troupes allemandes, dont elles out été chassées, qui va de la Marne à l'Aisne, et que couvraient des centaines de villages prospéres dans une des régions les plus fertiles et les plus riches de la France, a été ravagé par les troupes ennemies. Les propriétaires de ces milliers de fermes—vieillards, femmes et enfants—sont revenus à leurs foyers détruits pour relever leurs[7] maisons et faire produire à la terre la nourriture dont ils ont besoin. Ils ont tout perdu: maisons, meubles, vêtements, animaux, instruments aratoires. Ce sont ces derniers qui attirent particulièrement votre commisération. En face de cette misère effroyable tous les cœurs s'émeuvent et chacun veut apporter son aide à ces braves gens. Vous donnez au public une occasion facile et agréable de faire ce geste en mettant à sa portée un livre intéressant dont le prix ira soulager les nobles victimes de la guerre en France.

Je vous souhaite une forte recette. Veuillez agréer, mesdames, avec mes félicitations, l'expression de mes sentiments distingués.

[8]

ALLIED FOOD

As soon as I heard of the proposed plan of this book I became positively frantic to co-operate in it. The idea of a cookery book which should contain Allied Recipes and Allied Recipes only, struck me at once as one of the finest ideas of the day.

For myself I have felt for some time past that the time is gone, and gone for ever, when I can eat a German Pretzel or a Wiener Schnitzel.

It gives me nothing but remorse to remember that there were days when I tolerated, I may even say I enjoyed, Hungarian Goulash. I could not eat it now. As for Bulgarian Boosh or Turkish Tch'kk, the mere names of them make me ill.

For me, for the rest of my life, it must be Allied Food or no food at all. One may judge, therefore, with what delight I received the news of this patriotic enterprise. I at once telegraphed to the editors the following words:

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"Am willing to place at your service without charge entire knowledge of cookery. Forty-six years' practical experience."

To this telegram I received no reply. I am aware that there is, even in cooking circles, a certain amount of professional jealousy. It may be that I had overpassed the line of good taste in offering my entire knowledge. I should have only offered part of it.

I therefore resolved that instead of writing the whole book as I had at first intended, I would content myself with sending to the editors, a certain number of selected recipes of a kind calculated to put the book in a class all by itself.

I sent, in all, fifty recipes. I regret to say that after looking over the pages of the book with the greatest care, and after looking also on the back of them, I do not find my recipes included in it. The obvious conclusion is that while this book was in the press my recipes were stolen out of it.

The various dishes that I had selected were of so distinctive a character and the art involved in their preparation so entirely recherché that it seems a pity that they should be altogether lost. They contained a certain je ne sais quoi which would have marked them out as emphatically the perquisite of the few. To say that they[10] were dishes for a king is to understate the fact.

It is therefore merely in the public interest and from no sense of personal vanity that I reproduce the substance of one or two of them in this preface. There was a whole section, for example, on Eggs, which I am extremely loath to lose. It showed how by holding an egg down under boiling water till it is exhausted, it may be first cooked and then be passed under a flat iron until it becomes an Egg Pancake. It may be then given a thin coat of varnish and served in a railway restaurant for years and years.

I had also an excellent recipe for Rum Omelette. It read: "Take a dipper full of rum and insert an omelette in it. Serve anywhere in Ontario." I am convinced that this recipe alone would have been worth its weight in rum.

But it would be childish of me to lay too much stress on my own personal disappointment or regret. When I realized what had happened I felt at once that my co-operation in this book must take some other form. I therefore sent to the editors a second telegram which read:

"Am willing to eat free of charge all dishes contained in volume."

This offer was immediately accepted, and I am happy to assure readers of this book that I have eaten each and every one of the preparations in the[11] pages that follow. To prevent all doubt I make this statement under oath. I had intended to make merely an honest statement of the fact but my friends tell me that a statement under oath is better in such a case than a mere honest statement.

[12]

FOREWORD

The heart of the world throbs with sympathy for the suffering women and children in the war-devastated countries of Europe. He who does not long to be a helper in this hour of vast need and unprecedented anguish must be made of something more adamant than stone. America owes a large debt to the culinary artists of Europe. Without their originality and finished skill, in the creation of savory dishes for the table, the art of entertaining in our land could never have attained its present perfection.

Ever ready to incorporate in her own methods whatever other countries had to offer as improvements, America has received from the epicurean chefs of Europe conspicuous benefits. In every menu from coast to coast, these facts make themselves evident. It is then fitting, that at this crucial hour, we repay something of the debt we owe by[13] making this little cooking manual an instant and decided success, knowing the proceeds from its sale will relieve such distress as we in our sheltered homes can scarcely picture by the greatest effort of imagination.

[14]

CHARLOTTE DE POMMES

Prendre des pommes reinettes épépinées, émincées et sautées au beurre avec quelques pincées du sucre et une demi-gousse de vanille.

De cette fondue de pommes qui ne doit pas être trop cuite, on garnit un moule à charlotte dont les parois auront été revêtues d'étroites tranches de mie de pain trempées dans du beurre épuré et saupoudré de sucre.

Ces tranches de pain doivent être placées dans le moule, se chevauchant, les unes sur les autres.

Garnir le fond du moule d'une abaisse de pain de mie également beurrée et saupoudrée de sucre.

Recouvrir la charlotte d'une abaisse prise dans la croûte du pain de mie afin de la protéger contre l'action trop vive du calorique.

Faire cuire la charlotte au four pendant 35 ou 40 minutes; la laisser reposer pendant quelques minutes à l'étuve avant de la démouler, et la servir avec une sauce à l'abricot, parfumée au Kirsch.

Ambassade de France aux Etats-Unis.
March 2, 1916.

[15]

Soups

BOUILLABAISSE

Put 3 tablespoons of olive oil in stew-pan, add 4 chopped onions, 3 cloves of chopped garlic, a[16] few sprigs of parsley, 1 bayleaf, ¼ teaspoon fennel, ¼ teaspoon saffron, ½ teaspoon whole black pepper ground, salt, fry until golden brown. Then add 3 or 4 tomatoes and a pimento, ¹/₃ quart of white wine, ²/₃ quart of water, boil 15 minutes. Strain and return to the kettle; add the flounder and butterfish in pieces as large as possible, ½ lb. of codfish tongues, 1 lb. of eel; boil 10 minutes, add the fish stock, 1 lb. of scallops, boil 10 more minutes. Rub together 1 oz. of flour and 1 oz. of butter; drop this in the soup in little balls five minutes before serving. Then put in ½ lb. of shrimps and 1 large boiled lobster cut in large pieces. Rub with garlic some round slices of bread and serve the Bouillabaisse on them.

This will serve 12 persons.

One is not able to obtain here the varieties of fish of the Midi, but the above will make an excellent substitute.

BORCHT

MUSHROOM SOUP

Put the mushrooms in a stew-pan with 1 tablespoon of butter, a few gratings of nutmeg, salt, and pepper, and 1 cup of water; cook over a good fire 20 minutes, then pass through a coarse sieve. Cream 1 tablespoon of butter with 2 tablespoons of flour, add this to 4 cups of scalded milk. When this thickens to a thin cream, add the mushrooms; just before serving add ½ cup of cream.

SERBIAN CHICKEN SOUP

In a separate pan put a tablespoon of lard and ½ tablespoon of flour. Stir this until it is brown and add some paprika, according to taste. Add this to the soup. Let it boil a few minutes. Just before serving the soup stir in well the yolk of an egg beaten with three tablespoons of cream.

VEGETABLE SOUP

Put into the stock the slices of pork, cut into small pieces; or, if desired, a ham bone may be substituted for the pork. Add the tomatoes, cut into small pieces also, the onions, in small pieces, and the rice. Boil all together until the rice is cooked. Then add the beans and the peas and cook a little longer. The soup is ready when it is thick. If desired, this chowder can be made with fish broth instead of the stock, and with the addition of shrimps which have been taken from their shells.

This dish can be served hot or cold.

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LETTUCE SOUP

Put the potatoes, cold boiled, into the stock when it boils, add the celery leaves, the lettuce chopped up, the peas, and the flour mixed well with a little cold stock or water. Boil for one hour and a half, and serve with little squares of fried bread.

POT-AU-FEU

Put the meat and water into a stock-pot or boiling pot; let it come gently to boiling point, and skim well. Wash and clean the vegetables, stick the cloves in the onion, tie up the cabbage and leeks, and put all in with the meat. Add the carrots cut into large pieces, the bouquet-garni, peppercorns, and salt, and let the whole simmer gently for 4[20] hours. Just before serving cut the bread into thin slices, place them in a soup tureen, and add some of the carrot, leeks, and onions cut into small pieces. Remove the meat from the pot, season the broth to taste, and strain it into the soup tureen. Sprinkle the chopped parsley on the top, and serve. The meat and remaining vegetables may be served as a separate course; they may also be used up in some form for another meal. Or the meat and vegetables may be served and the broth put aside and used on the following day as "Croute-au-pot."

ONION SOUP

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SOLDIERS' SOUP

STSCHI

[22]

BURAKI

LENTIL SOUP

[23]

BLACK BEAN SOUP

FISH CHOWDER

Put the onions and potatoes, sliced in layers, in a kettle, then a layer of fish until all is used. Fry the pork, cut in small pieces, brown, take the fat and pour over all. Cover with boiling water and cook 20 minutes. Then mix 2 spoonsful of flour with a cup of cream, stir into the boiling chowder, boil up, and serve.

Clams may be substituted for fish.

[24]

Fish

ROAST OYSTERS

RAIE AU BEURRE NOIR

It may not commonly be known that the skate, so neglected in this country, takes very well the place of the delectable raie of Europe.

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SALMON TIDNISH

AUBERGINE AUX CREVETTES

LOBSTER BEAUGENCY

SCALLOPS EN BROCHETTE

FILET OF SOLE FLORENTINE

Any fine white fish may be similarly treated.

SALMON TERIYAKI

Note.—Japanese Shoyu is made of wheat and beans; it may be obtained in New York or in any city where there is a large Japanese Colony. Mirin is cooking wine. These are most important ingredients for Japanese cooking. Chinese sauce may be used instead of Shoyu which may be obtained at any Chinese restaurant. Sauterne may be used instead of Mirin in which case add 1 teaspoonful of sugar.

[28]

FILET OF SOLE MARGUERY

CODFISH WITH GREEN PEPPERS

Then take two good-sized green peppers, roast them on top of the stove, remove the skins and seeds, wash them, dry them, and cut them in narrow strips. When this is done put three generous tablespoons of olive-oil into a saucepan with one onion cut up, and fry the onion over a slow fire. Take two big tomatoes, skin them, remove the seeds and hard parts, and cut them into small pieces. When the onion has taken a good colour, add the tomatoes, then add the peppers and a little salt and pepper. If the sauce is too thick, add a little water. When the peppers are half cooked,[29] add some chopped-up parsley and the codfish. Cover up the saucepan and let it simmer until the fish is cooked.

HERRING ROES, BAKED

Brush the inside of the cases with clarified butter. Heat 1 oz. of butter in a small stew-pan, put in the mushrooms, shallot, and parsley, fry lightly, then drain off the butter into a sauté pan. Add the brown sauce, lemon-juice, and anchovy essence to the mushrooms, etc., season to taste, and when hot pour a small teaspoonful into each paper case. Re-heat the butter in the sauté pan, toss the roes gently over the fire until lightly browned, then place one in each case, and cover them with the remainder of the sauce. Add a thin layer of bread-crumbs, on the top place 2 or 3 morsels of butter, and bake in a quick oven for 6 or 7 minutes. Serve as hot as possible.

[30]

CREAMED FISH

Scald the milk with the onion, bay-leaf, mace, and parsley; remove the seasonings, melt the butter, add the flour, salt, pepper, and gradually the milk. Put the fish in a deep buttered dish (or in individual dishes). Pour over it the sauce and cover with the buttered crumbs. Just before taking from the oven make an opening in the crust of crumbs and put in a tablespoon of sherry.

MOUSSELINE OF FISH

Mix the whites of 4 eggs beaten stiff, 1 cup of bread-crumbs, very fine, 1 cup of cream, ¼ lb. of almonds cut in fine strips, a pinch of mace, a little bit of onion juice or, if preferred, ¼ teaspoonful of lemon-juice, salt and pepper. Steam in a mould or bake in a pan of water or in individual moulds for three-quarters of an hour. Serve with a rich cream, or mushroom, or lobster sauce.

[31]

This is good cold in summer with a cucumber sauce or light mayonnaise.

HADDOCK MOBILE

KEDGAREE

This is a good breakfast dish.

PICKLED SALMON

After the fish comes from table and the bones have been removed, lay it in a deep dish. Boil the liquor and vinegar with the other ingredients for 10 minutes, let them stand to get cold, then pour them over the salmon, and in 12 hours it will be ready for use.

[33]

Meats and Entrées

RUSSIAN PIROG KULBAK

CARBONADE FLAMANDE

BLANQUETTE OF VEAL

With 2 oz. of butter and 2 oz. of flour make a white sauce; moisten it with veal stock, stir over the fire. The sauce must be perfectly smooth and not thick. Add the meat without the vegetables, continue to cook it until the meat is tender. The sauce should be reduced by one half. Thicken at the last moment with 3 yolks of eggs, 1 oz. of[35] butter, and the juice of a lemon. Arrange the meat on the dish with the sauce.

This dish is sometimes garnished with small round balls of veal made of raw minced veal seasoned with salt, and pepper, boiled about ½ an hour with the other veal, and then fried in butter. The balls should be only as big as marbles.

BLANQUETTE OF CHICKEN

STRACOTTO

[36]

Let it cook slowly closely covered about 5 hours. An hour before serving remove the beef (which is to be placed in a covered dish at the side of the stove) and strain the gravy.

Cook one cup of rice in this gravy. When the rice is cooked replace the beef in the stewpan and warm it.

Add ½ cup grated cheese and 2 tablespoons of butter to the rice and pour around the beef on a platter.

DUCK ST. ALBANS

Farce.—1 lb. of calf's liver, 2 ozs. of butter, 1 slice of bacon, a slice of onion, 1 carrot sliced. Fry these carefully and pound in a mortar. Pass through a wire sieve. Then put in a basin and whisk in ½ pint of aspic jelly and a small teacupful of very thick cream. Season with cayenne pepper and salt. Grapefruit and orange salad is served with this.

[37]

BONED TURKEY

CHICKEN AND CABBAGE

LEG-OF-MUTTON PIE

RUSSIAN STEAKS

Serve with the following sauce: Mix together 2 tablespoonsful of oil and 1 of butter, 1½ tablespoons of flour, add 2 teaspoonsful of onion juice, 1 teaspoonful of grated horse-radish, ¼ teaspoonful of mixed mustard, salt and pepper, then gradually[39] 1½ cups of stock (one can use water instead), and cook 3 minutes, then take from the fire and add ¼ of a cup of cream and I teaspoonful of lemon-juice.

ANOTHER RUSSIAN METHOD FOR BEEFSTEAKS

STEWED KIDNEYS

Note.—Mushrooms stewed with the kidneys are an improvement.

CHICKEN

Joint the fowl and place it in the pan, add salt and pepper. Cook in the oven about one hour, then add 3 or 4 peeled tomatoes with the seeds removed. Continue to add in the pan enough water to baste the fowl frequently. Cook until the fowl is tender and serve with rice to which minced cooked ham or bacon has been added. Pour the gravy in the pan over the chicken.

BAKED HAM

RILLETTES DE TOURS

This is excellent for a cold supper or can be used as pâté de foie gras, and it may be moulded in buttered dishes without the aspic.

[42]

A SERBIAN DISH OF RICE AND MUTTON

BAKED EGGS

TRIPE

TRIPE

[44]

TIMBALE OF PARTRIDGES

STEWED HARE

Note.—This dish may be rendered more highly flavoured, if desired, by steeping the pieces of hare for some hours in the following marinade or pickle: a bottle of red wine, a cupful of vinegar, salt, pepper, a bouquet of herbs, and an onion stuck with cloves. Leave the hare in this preparation four or five hours, then when the thickening is made, put in the hare with this marinade, then the stock, and finish as above. Small button onions or mushrooms may be added before the hare is tender; if[46] onions are cooked with it they must be previously boiled for a few minutes.

INDIAN PILAU

Peel and chop the onions, and put them into a stew-pan with the butter, and mangoes cut into shreds; on the top of these ingredients place the joints of a chicken previously fried in butter, and let this stew over a slow fire for about 1 hour. When done arrange the pieces of chicken on the rice lightly piled in a dish; stir the sauce to mix it, and pour it over the pilau. Serve very hot.

Rice for Pilau.—Wash and parboil for 5 minutes ½ lb. of rice, then drain it free from water; put it into a stew-pan with 2 ozs. of butter, and stir, over the fire until the rice acquires equally in every grain a light fawn colour, then add a ½ pint of stock, cayenne pepper, and a very little curry powder; put the lid on the stew-pan, and set the rice to boil, or rather simmer, very gently over a slow fire till done. Stir it lightly with a fork, to detach the grains. A few raisins added are an improvement.

[47]

STUFFED BEEF STEAKS

PODVARAK

Place a piece of ribs of pork or a small turkey in the pan and bake in the oven until the meat is cooked.

[48]

RIBS OF PORK IN CASSEROLE

SALMIS DE LAPIN

For the Gravy.—Take the trimmings of the rabbit, the head, and liver, and pound them all up[49] in a mortar. When pounded, add a heaping spoonful of flour and pound it in. Now measure out a pint and a half of white ordinary wine (hock), to which you will add a good breakfastcupful of good bouillon, or gravy. Into this put what you have already pounded up and mix it in, then pass it all through a sieve (passoire). When ready pour it over the pieces of rabbit, now that they are become of a golden colour, and let it simmer with them in a covered saucepan by the side of the fire for a good two hours and more, so as to have it very tender. Salt and pepper to taste. Bouquet garni—which means thyme, and if one likes the flavour, a leaf of bay laurel—but for the latter just to let it be in an instant only, as it has such a strong flavour. Many prefer just the thyme, which is more delicate. Half an hour before the rabbit is cooked, add a good spoonful of vinegar[1]; two, should the vinegar not be strong. Add a piece of butter of the size of a walnut whilst it is simmering or stewing by the side of the fire.

SHEEP'S HEAD

MACARONI PIE

Cut the beef or mutton into thin slices, peel the onion and slice it thinly, slice the tomatoes, and boil the macaroni in slightly salted water until tender. Cool and drain the macaroni, and cut it up into small pieces. Line a buttered baking-dish with macaroni, and arrange the meat, onion, and tomato slices in layers on the baking-dish. Season with salt, pepper, and nutmeg, pour over a little stock, and cover the top with macaroni. Sprinkle over some bread-crumbs, and grated cheese, and bake for about 20 minutes in a hot oven.

[51]

KIDNEY AND MUSHROOMS

[52]

Curries

INDIAN CURRY

A FRICASSEE OF CHICKEN

To obtain cocoanut cream, use the same process as that for ordinary cream;—as for the milk: have 3 fresh cocoanuts scraped very fine to which you add 3 pints of water, stir together for a few moments, then strain, let this milk stand for 3 hours to obtain the cream.

A SIMPLER INDIAN CURRY

If not convenient to use the cocoanut milk, ordinary milk can be used, and the mixture thickened with a little flour. Cocoanut milk thickens without flour. When the butter separates and shows itself in the gravy, the curry is ready for serving. Curry should be served with plain boiled rice. Pass rice first, then curry.

If Indian chutney is served with curry it is a great addition. A banana may be cut up in pieces about half-inch thick, and added to the curry mixture while cooking, and is a pleasant addition to the flavour.

ANOTHER CURRY SAUCE

[56]

Pastes, Cheese, Etc.

MACARONI WITH CHEESE

Note:—Macaroni should be tender but not pasty; it should possess a certain crispness; obtain this by passing cold water over it when it is in the sieve and quickly returning it to the saucepan.

MACARONI

POLENTA WITH CHEESE

With a tablespoon form it into small lumps; arrange them on a dish, sprinkle them with grated cheese, and pour over them some butter cooked brown, but not burnt. Put the dish in the oven a few minutes to melt the cheese before serving.

LENTIL CROQUETTES

Serve with a tomato or horse-radish sauce.

This is a nourishing substitute for meat.

RISOTTO

The brown rice now procurable in most large cities is liked by gourmets cooked in this manner and served with partridge and other game.

RISOTTO MILANAISE

RAVIOLI

[60]

EGG COQUILLES, WITH SPINACH

Have 6 very small coquille or marmit pots, or china soufflé cases, butter them, and put 1 tablespoonful of spinach in each. Upon this put about 1 dessert-spoonful of cream. Break 1 egg in each, season with salt and pepper, and bake carefully in a moderately heated oven for 8 minutes. Serve quickly.

PIROG OF MUSHROOMS

PASTE FOR RUSSIAN PIROG

EGGS ROMANOFF

ŒUFS POCHÉS IVANHOE

CHEESE PUFFS

MOSKVA CHEESECAKES

CHEESE FRITTERS

Drop by spoonfuls into hot, not boiling fat; increase the temperature of the fat, turning the fritters often.

When golden brown drain and serve.

[63]

CHEESE PUDDING

Pour over 1 pint of milk, let it stand for five minutes, then bake in a warm oven 20 minutes.

CHICORY OR ENDIVE

STEWED COS LETTUCES

Note.—Lettuces may be cooked in the same manner with a little lean bacon, ham, or sausage; in the latter case water may be used instead of stock. They can be served as a vegetable or for garnishing.

ASPARAGUS

Wash and trim the asparagus, and tie it into 3 or 4 bundles. Bring the milk to boiling point, put in the asparagus, lettuce, onion, bay-leaf, thyme, and salt, and simmer gently for about 20 minutes.[65] Drain the asparagus well, cut off the points and the edible parts of the stalks, and keep them hot. Strain the milk and return it to the stew-pan, add the butter and flour previously kneaded together, and stir until a smooth sauce is obtained. Beat the yolks of eggs slightly, add them to the sauce, and stir until they thicken, but do not allow the sauce to boil, or the yolks may curdle. Season to taste, and add the lemon-juice. Pile the asparagus on the croûtes, cover with sauce, garnish with strips of cucumber, and a little chopped parsley, and serve as a vegetable entremet or as an entrée for a vegetarian dinner.

CELERY CROQUETTES

Trim and wash the celery, and cut into short pieces, blanch them in salted water, and drain, then cook till tender in well-seasoned stock. Drain the cooked celery, and chop it rather finely. Melt the butter in a stew-pan, add the shallot (chopped), and fry a little, stir in the flour, blend these together, and gradually add a gill of milk. Stir till it boils, and put in the chopped celery. Season with salt and pepper, and cook for 15 minutes, add the egg-yolks at the last. Spread the[66] mixture on a dish and let it get cold. Make up into croquettes—cork or ball shapes—egg and crumb them, fry in hot fat to a golden colour, drain them on a cloth or paper, and dish up.

RAGOÛT OF CELERY

Wash and trim the celery, cut each stick into pieces about 2 inches long, cover with cold water, bring to the boil, and pour the water away. Put in the stock, the Spanish onion finely chopped, season with salt and pepper, and cook gently for about ½ an hour. Meanwhile, skin the onions, fry them in hot butter, but very slowly, to prevent them taking colour, drain well from fat, and keep them hot. Add the flour to the butter, and fry for a few minutes without browning. Take up the celery, add the strained stock to the milk, pour both on to the roux or mixture of flour and butter, and stir until boiling. Season to taste, add the cream and ½ the parsley, arrange the celery in a circle on a hot dish, pour over the sauce, pile the onions high in the centre, sprinkle over them the remainder of the parsley, and serve. The[67] celery may also be served on croûtes of fried or toasted bread arranged in rows with the onions piled between them. A nice change may be made by substituting mushrooms for the onions.

STUFFED ONIONS

ONIONS

FRIED PUMPKIN OR SQUASH

If desired as garnishing for meat, cut the pumpkin exceedingly fine, roll in flour, but not in egg, and fry.

CUCUMBERS

SARMA

Fry 4 onions in 1 tablespoon of lard. Mix 2 lbs. of chopped pork and 2 lbs. of chopped beef with the onions. Stir into this 4 raw eggs. Add ½ lb. of rice, salt and pepper.

Remove the cabbage from the water, tear off the leaves and put into each leaf two tablespoonsful of the meat and rice mixture, wrapping it so that the contents should not come out.

Put a little sauerkraut in a pot, then a layer of the filled cabbage leaves, continue doing this until the pot is filled. Cook slowly about 1 hour.

Make a sauce putting 1 tablespoon of lard in a saucepan on the fire, and add a chopped onion. When a golden brown, add 1 tablespoonful of browned flour and paprika to taste. Add a cup of water. Pour this sauce into the pot and cook about half an hour longer. Some sour cream may be added if liked on serving.

[70]

POLENTA PASTICCIATA

Boil the milk, and add the Indian meal, a little at a time, when milk is boiling. Cook for one-half an hour, stirring constantly. Add salt just before taking off the fire. The Indian meal should be stiff when finished. Turn it onto the bread-board, and spread it out to the thickness of two fingers. While it is cooking prepare a meat sauce, and a Béchamel sauce as follows:

Take a small piece of beef, a small piece of ham, fat and lean, 1 tablespoon of butter, a small piece of onion, a small piece of carrot, a small piece of celery, a pinch of flour, ½ cup of bouillon (or water), pepper. Cut the meat into small dice; chop up fine together the ham, onion, carrot, and celery. Put these into a saucepan with the butter, and when the meat is brown, add the pinch of flour, and the bouillon a little at a time, and cook for about one-half an hour. This sauce should not be strained.

Take 1 tablespoon of flour, and 1½ tablespoon of butter. Put them into a saucepan and stir with a[71] wooden spoon until they have become a golden-brown colour. Then add, a little at a time, 1 pint milk; stir constantly until the sauce is as thick as custard, and is white in colour.

Now take the cold Indian meal and cut it into squares about two inches across. Take a baking-dish of medium depth, butter well, then put in a layer of squares of Indian meal close together, to entirely cover the bottom of the dish. Sprinkle over it grated cheese; then pour on the top enough meat sauce to cover the layer (about 2 tablespoons), then on the top of this add a layer of Béchamel sauce. Then put another layer of the squares of Indian meal, sprinkle with grated cheese as before, add meat sauce, then Béchamel sauce, and continue in this way until the baking-dish is full, having for the top layer the Béchamel sauce. Put the dish into a moderate oven, and bake until a golden brown.

FRIED BREAD WITH RAISINS

POLENTA CROQUETTES

RICE WITH MUSHROOMS

Chop up a little onion, parsley, celery, and carrot together, and put them on the fire with 2 tablespoons of good olive-oil. When this sauce is coloured, add 2 tablespoons of tomato paste, thinned with hot water. Season with salt and[73] pepper. Cut the mushrooms into small pieces, and add them to the sauce. Cook for 20 minutes over a medium fire. Put on one side and prepare the rice as follows:

Fry the rice with a lump of butter until dry; then add hot water, a little at a time, and boil gently. When the rice is half cooked (after about 10 minutes) add the mushrooms and sauce, and cook for another 10 minutes. Add grated Parmesan cheese before serving.

TIMBALES OF BREAD WITH PARMESAN SAUCE

To this add grated rind half lemon; 1 tablespoon minced parsley; 1 tablespoon minced chives; 1 teaspoon salt; pepper; yolks two eggs.

Fill buttered timbale moulds or one large mould with this mixture, cover with buttered paper, and bake 20 minutes in moderate oven in a pan half filled with hot water.

Remove from moulds and pour cheese sauce around it.

[74]

Sauces

CHEESE SAUCE

TOMATO SAUCE

This sauce may be eaten hot or cold.

ANOTHER TOMATO SAUCE

MUSTARD SAUCE

Blend the butter and flour in a saucepan and pour on the milk little by little, then add the salt, mustard, and vinegar.

A spoonful of mixed capers is sometimes added.

A MEAT SAUCE

ANOTHER MEAT SAUCE

LOMBARDA SAUCE

HORSE-RADISH SAUCE

GNOCCHI DI SEMOLINA

Put the milk on, and when it boils add salt. Take a wooden spoon and, stirring constantly, add the farina little by little. Cook for 10 minutes, stirring constantly. Take off the fire and break into the farina 2 eggs; mix very quickly, so that the egg will not have time to set. Spread the farina about on a marble slab about ½ inch thick. Allow it to cool, then cut it into squares or diamonds about 2 or 3 inches across. Butter well a baking-dish, and put in the bottom a layer of the squares of farina; sprinkle over a little grated cheese, and here and there a small lump of butter. Then put in another layer of the squares of farina; add cheese and butter as before. Continue in this[78] way until your baking-dish is full, having on the top layer butter and cheese.

Bake in a hot oven until a brown crust forms. Serve in the baking-dish.

[79]

Salads

ITALIAN SALAD

LETTUCE SALAD

Cut a firm head of tennis-ball lettuce in 4 parts. Put one part on a plate and pour the dressing over it. This recipe is enough for 1 person.

SANDWICH DRESSING

SALAD DRESSING

CHEESE DRESSING

[81]

Vegetables

POTATO CAKES

PETITS POIS

STRING BEANS

Peas may be done in the same way.

RED CABBAGE

CABBAGE WITH CHEESE SAUCE

GLAZED ONIONS

SPINACH SOUFFLÉ

Put into a saucepan on the fire 2 tablespoonsful of butter and 1½ level tablespoonsful of flour. When these are blended add the 2 cupfuls of spinach and one cup of cream. Cook five minutes, stirring carefully. Then mix into this the yolks of 3 eggs and remove the saucepan at once from the fire. When the mixture is cool stir into it the 3 whites of eggs, well beaten. Pour into a buttered soufflé dish, or individual dishes, and bake about twenty minutes in a moderate oven.

[84]

Puddings, Cakes, Etc.

FRENCH PANCAKES

CRÊPES SUZETTE

SAUCE FOR CRÊPES SUZETTE

Put one spoonful of the sauce in a chafing dish, and when the sauce is hot, put in a pancake, fold it over twice, turn it in the sauce, and serve very hot. Prepare each pancake separately in this manner.

ANOTHER SUZETTE PANCAKE

Cook in the same manner as the first Suzette pancake with the following sauce: Cream together ¼ cup of brown sugar and ½ cup of butter, add the juice of ½ orange and 1 pony of Curaçoa and 1 pony of brandy. Serve from the chafing dish as described for the first Crepe Suzette.

KISEL

CARROT PUDDING

Serve with the following sauce: ¼ cup of butter, 1 cup of powdered sugar, ½ cup of cream, 2 tablespoons of sherry or 1 teaspoonful of vanilla. The butter must be worked soft before adding the sugar gradually, then the cream and flavouring, little by little, to prevent separating.

OLD ENGLISH PLUM PUDDING

Mix all together thoroughly, boil 12 hours, the longer the better on the first day and 2[87] hours just before serving. This is the secret for making it black and light. This makes about 1 two-quart and 5 one-quart puddings. This recipe makes excellent plum cake, black and rich, by substituting flour for the crumbs and lard for the suet.

BANANA TRIFLE

CREAM TART

Filling: Mix ²/₃ of a cup of fine sugar with ¹/₃ of a cup of flour, add the yolks of 3 eggs and 1 whole egg, 1 cup of scalded milk, ¼ of a teaspoonful of salt, cook in double boiler 15 minutes. Add 2 tablespoons of butter, 2 tablespoons of either cocoanut[88] or almond macaroons, crumbed, ²/₃ teaspoonful of vanilla, and ½ teaspoonful of lemon extract.

This may be put between simply two crusts, a bottom and a top, and served in a pie plate.

CHOCOLATE PUDDING

Sauce crême au chocolat.—Dissolve a tablet of chocolate in 2 dessert-spoonfuls of hot water; add 2 ozs. of powdered sugar and 3 yolks of eggs, working the mixture for an instant with the spoon,[89] then add very gradually ¼ pint of hot milk. Stir over the fire until it commences to thicken and stick to the spoon; it must not boil. Pass it through a hair-sieve.

FRIED APPLES

Put into a saucepan 1 teaspoonful of lard. When this is hot heap all the apples into the pan; spread over the apples 1 cup darkest brown sugar; cover closely. Cook rather slowly about 15 minutes; then turn each piece with a fork. Cover closely again and cook 15 minutes more.

The apples should keep their shape and look clear with a rich syrup.

ORANGE PUDDING

OAT CAKES

Weigh the flour and meal onto the board, take the soda, acid, and salt, and rub these ingredients through a fine hair sieve onto the flour and meal; then add the sugar and fat, and rub together until smooth; make a bay or hole in the centre and work into a smooth paste with milk, taking care not to have it too dry or tight, or considerable trouble will be experienced in rolling out the cakes, as they will be found very short. Having wet the paste take small pieces about the size of an egg, and roll these out thin and round with a small rolling-pin, dusting the board with[91] a mixture partly of oatmeal and flour. When rolled down thin enough, take a sharp knife and cut them in four, place them on clean, flat tins, and bake in a warm oven. These cakes require very careful handling or they will break all to pieces.

TEA-CAKES (HOT)

Make the ingredients into a nice soft dough with the milk, cut into rounds about ½ an inch thick, and bake for 10 minutes in a quick oven; split open with your fingers, butter, and eat hot.

TEA PANCAKES

Rub together the dry ingredients. Beat up eggs and mix well with the milk, beating both together also. Then dredge in gradually with the hand the dry ingredients, stirring all the time.[92] Heat griddle well, rub over till quite greasy with a piece of bacon fat. Drop the mixture on griddle in spoonfuls from a tablespoon. A minute or two will brown them. Then turn over and cook other side.

CANADIAN WAR CAKE

Boil these ingredients 5 minutes after they begin to bubble. When cold add 1 teaspoon soda dissolved in 1 teaspoon hot water, and 3 cups of flour.

Bake in 2 loaves, 45 minutes in a slow oven.

SERBIAN CAKE

Boil 10 minutes ¼ lb. pounded nuts with 1 cup of milk. Put aside to cool. Cream ¼ lb. butter, add 2 tablespoons of rum and 1 teaspoon vanilla. Mix this with the boiled milk and nuts. Add fine sugar until stiff enough to put between the layers[93] of cake and then add more sugar to make it stiff enough for the top. Sprinkle the top and sides of the cake with chopped nuts.

RAVIOLI DOLCE

Take ½ pound of curds, add 1 egg, and the yolk of a second egg, 2 tablespoons of granulated sugar, a few drops of extract of vanilla. Mix well together and add to the paste as for other ravioli. Then fry in lard until a golden brown. Serve with powdered sugar.

CHESTNUTS

[94]

GNOCCHI OF MILK

Put all these ingredients together into a saucepan and mix together with a wooden spoon for a few minutes. Then put on the back of the stove where it is not too hot, and cook until the mixture has become stiff. Cook a few minutes longer; then turn out onto a bread-board and spread to a thickness of an inch. When cold cut into diamonds or squares. Butter a baking-dish, and put the squares into it overlapping each other. Add a few dabs of butter here and there. Put another layer of the squares in the dish, more dabs of butter, and so on until the dish is full. Brown in the oven.

ALMOND PUDDING

Separate the yolks of the eggs, add 1 tablespoonful of castor-sugar, the ground almonds, and the cream gradually. Whisk the whites stiffly, stir them lightly in, and add more sugar if necessary.[95] Have ready a mould well buttered and lightly covered with shredded almonds and candied peel, then pour in the mixture. Steam gently for 1½ hours, and serve with a suitable sauce.

CHESTNUT FRITTERS

CHESTNUT CREAM

[96]

Cover the peeled chestnuts with milk, add a little vanilla, let them boil in a covered pan until tender and the milk reduced. Now crush the chestnuts in the saucepan and add ¼ lb. powdered sugar. If the purée is too thick add a little milk, but it should be stiff enough to form into a border around the dish in which it is to be served.

In the centre of the dish heap whipped cream lightly sweetened and flavoured with vanilla. The chestnut border may be made in an ornamental form by a pastry bag and tube.

TAPIOCA PUDDING

Place the saucepan on a slow fire and simmer 15 minutes.

Pour the mixture into a basin and add ½ cup stoned raisins, the grated rind of 1 lemon, 1½ oz. finely cut candied orange-peel, one whole egg, 3 yolks; mix all together. Beat the 3 whites stiff and add to the mixture.

Pour into a mould which has been buttered and well sprinkled with powdered sugar and steam 45 minutes. Serve with any sweet sauce.

[97]

With a larger quantity of raisins this resembles an old time "Whisper Pudding." So called because the plums were close together.

GINGER ICE-CREAM

Freeze.

ALMOND CAKE

For the filling: Yolks of 4 eggs, 1 tablespoon of sugar, 2 teaspoons of corn-starch mixed in enough milk to moisten, 1 pint of cream. Heat the cream in a double boiler, then add other ingredients, stir constantly and do not let it thicken too much; add a few drops of almond flavouring and ½ cup of chopped almonds.

For the frosting: White of 1 egg beaten stiff,[98] 1 cup of sugar with enough water to melt it. Boil 2 minutes. Stir half of it into the egg, let the remainder boil thick. Add all together and beat to the right consistency; flavour with sherry or Madeira.

QUEEN CAKES

FRANCESCAS

OAT CAKES

GATEAU POLONAIS

ANISE CAKES

GORDON HIGHLANDER GINGERBREAD

Bake very slowly in a tin lined with buttered paper.

SCOTCH SHORT BREAD

CRAMIQUE

GAUFRES

½ lb. flour, ¼ lb. sugar, a little salt, ¼ lb. butter, 2 whole eggs, 1 yolk, 1 teaspoonful brandy, 1 teaspoonful warm water, ½ pint milk.

Mix all in basin to a liquid paste, beat well until creamy.

Heat the waffle irons, butter them lightly, pour into the middle a teaspoonful of the mixture; cook to a golden brown on both sides of the cakes. When done, should be quite thin like an ice cream wafer. These are delicious but it is necessary to have the proper irons.

PETS DE NONNE

When the liquid is boiling remove the stewpan from fire and add the flour all at once, then the[102] lemon peel. When half cool add the eggs one by one.

Drop by spoonfuls in hot frying fat, which must not be too hot. When a golden brown remove from fire, drain, and roll in fine sugar.

BRIOCHE DE LA LUNE

Leave in gentle temperature 4 or 5 hours or until the dough has risen to twice its size.

Roll out on a board ¼ of an inch thick, spread thinly with softened butter, then turn the edges over to the center to make 3 layers. Roll out ½ an inch thick. Cut into small squares. With a wet finger make a hole in the center of each; into this hole put a piece of the dough in the shape of a little pear; brush the top lightly with the yolk of egg. Let it rise again and then bake in a moderate oven about 20 minutes.

[103]

VICTORIA SCONES

Mix and sift together flour, baking powder, sugar, and salt. Rub in butter, add beaten eggs and cream. Roll out on floured board ¾ in. thick, cut out with a small biscuit cutter, and brush over with white of egg. Bake in a hot oven 15 minutes.

NUT BREAD

In another bowl beat together ½ cup of sugar, 1 egg, 1 cup of milk, and 1 cup of English walnuts broken in pieces. Add the dry ingredients to this mixture and let rise 20 minutes, then bake in a loaf 30 to 40 minutes.

BRAN MUFFINS

[104]

Bake 20 minutes.

To this may be added some chopped nuts and raisins.

SCOTCH SCONES

BLINNI

Blinni are spread with soured cream, and smoked salmon or caviare is usually served with them.

BAKED HOMINY

Remove the saucepan from the fire, add a tablespoonful of butter and three eggs. Pour this into a baking pan and bake about 20 minutes.

Baked hominy may be served with meats or fish.

MARRONS GLACÉS

Prunes may be treated in the same way.

SMALL CUCUMBER PICKLES

PRESERVED STRAWBERRIES

RHUBARB JELLY

Wash and cut the rhubarb in small pieces; wash again, and boil it over a slow fire with a breakfastcupful of water till well cooked and all the juice extracted; let it drip all night through a jelly bag; to each good ½ pint of juice add 1 lb. of sugar, and add the alum to the whole; stir till it comes to the boil, and let it boil for 10 minutes; pour into pots.

TOMATO SOUP FOR CANNING

This is a good soup and will keep all winter.

[108]

BUDO CUP