A Daily Record of the Journey of the Original Company of "Mormon" Pioneers from Nauvoo, Illinois, to the Valley of the Great Salt Lake
Copyright 1921 by Lawrence Clayton, trustee for the Clayton Family Association.
Electronic edition produced by the Mormon Texts Project. To report typos or formatting errors, you can email mormontextsproject@gmail.com.
Volunteers who helped with this book: Eric Heaps, Meridith Crowder, Ben Crowder, Tod Robbins, David Van Leeuwen, Lili DeForest, Jude Ogzewalla, Byron Clark.
Version 1.0
William Clayton was one of the remarkable characters of early Utah history. Born in the county of Lancashire, England, July 17, 1814, he was educated in one of the schools of his native town, and grew to manhood with a love for books and nature. An early convert of the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints, he conducted one of the first companies from England to Nauvoo, and there became one of the trusted secretaries of the Prophet Joseph Smith. With the exodus from Nauvoo, he was Clerk of the Camp of Israel, and when the Mormon pioneers left Winter Quarters in April, 1847, he was appointed by Brigham Young one of the historians of that noted company. His journal of that memorable expedition over the plains is one of the most valuable diaries we have of that early period of western history. He kept careful account of the distances traveled each day, and his writings are full of descriptions of the country over which they traveled. He has noted the topography, the fauna and flora of the trail; and his descriptions of the activities of the company indicate a well trained intellect in social study. His language is simple and direct, and his care in keeping each day's distance and important facts of the journey show order and method.
His hymn, "Come, come, ye Saints" takes its place as one of the most beautiful hymns of western history, for it is full of joyfulness, and expresses an optimism and faith in God that will always be an inspiration to the one who sings it. It indicates that William Clayton had much of the artistic in him, although we do know that he took a virile part in the activities of life.
His journal should be read by all people who are interested in the west's development. It is certainly one of the distinct contributions of that early day, and shows that a man of strength of character wrote it. It will inspire many people to a greater love and regard for the work of the pioneers of Utah.
Levi Edgar Young
Salt Lake City, Utah
April 1921
The Claytons of England originally came from France. During the time when William the Conqueror and King Harold were quarreling, a call came from the former for volunteers among his chieftains to go to war. A man named Robert was among those who responded. Robert was skilled in arms.
After the Battle of Hastings in 1066, in which Robert rendered heroic service, William the Conqueror conferred upon him the English Manor of Clayton as a mark of merit. Robert was afterwards known as Robert de Clayton and Lord of the Manor of Clayton. From Lord Robert Clayton came all the Claytons of England and America and by genealogical research, the line has been brought down to the subject of this sketch.
William Clayton was born July 17, 1814, in the village of Charock Moss, Township of Penwortham, County Palatine of Lancaster, England. He was the son of Thomas and Ann Critchley Clayton, who were born in Lancashire, England. William was the eldest of fourteen children. Three of these children died in infancy and were buried in England. Through the influence of the eldest son, the father, mother and surviving children joined the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints and came to America. The mother died in Nauvoo, Illinois, July 15, 1848, and the father in St. Louis, Missouri, June 16, 1849. A brother James died in Winter Quarters, November 28, 1847. The remainder of his brothers and sisters survived the persecutions of mobs and the early privations of the Church and came to the valley of the Great Salt Lake with the pioneers of Utah.
William Clayton first heard the Gospel preached in England by Heber C. Kimball and Orson Hyde. With his wife, Ruth Moon Clayton, whom he married in England, October 9, 1836, he listened to the teachings of these missionaries, but he was not easy to convert. His wife received the Gospel first, and many evenings had to be spent before William Clayton became a believer in "Mormonism." He was ordained a Priest December 25, 1837, and a High Priest, April 1, 1838, at which time he was appointed with Willard Richards, Counselor to Joseph Fielding who presided over the Church in Europe.
September 8, 1840, he left England in the packet ship North America, arriving in New York, October 11, 1840, and in Nauvoo, November 24, 1840. In this city, he became a trusted friend of the founders of the Church, so much so that on February 10, 1842, he was appointed secretary to Joseph Smith the Prophet. October 7, 1842, he became Temple Recorder and Recorder of Revelations. In 1842, he became Treasurer of the City of Nauvoo. These appointments are indicative of the zeal with which William Clayton served the Church throughout his life.
What of the personal characteristics of our subject? As will appear from his portrait on the frontispiece, William Clayton did not tend to frivolity or mirth but rather to seriousness and earnestness. Yet he was witty and had a keen sense of humor. In the home he was not demonstrative; although he had great love for his home and family and provided well for their comfort. He was methodical, always sitting in his own arm chair, having a certain place at the table and otherwise showing his love for order, which he believed the first law of heaven. His person was clean and tidy; his hands small and dimpled. He wore very little jewelry but what little he had was the best money could buy. He would not carry a watch that was not accurate, and his clothing was made from the best material. His children remember him best in black velvet coat and grey trousers and, in cold weather, a broad-cloth cloak in place of overcoat.
The man-timber in William Clayton came from sturdy trees. His character was above all littleness. He believed that what was good for him was good for all men, and that the measurement of our lives was based upon our daily conduct towards each other. To him that was God's standard. He believed in perfect equity in the adjustment of the affairs of life. Had he loved money, he could probably have had it because of his education and executive ability. But he cared little for material gain, centering his zeal in the pursuit of honor and right.
William Clayton was honest and nothing to him could justify an untruth. He deplored waste or extravagance, yet he never withheld from a neighbor in distress, or from the widow or orphan. Many are those who knew his generosity. When his harvest was gathered, bushels of grain and fruit found place among those of scanty store. And many pairs of shoes and much warm clothing were given to comfort the needy. Nor was the homeless forgotten, but the orphan was given a home and joy by his own fireside.
His religion was deeply rooted and nurtured by association with and testimony of an eye witness to the living God. His love for Joseph Smith was love seldom shown in man for man. Few men possessed stronger faith and courage. These qualities alone could inspire a man under heart-rending circumstances, to write such hymns of faith and comfort as "Come, come, ye Saints," and "The Resurrection Day."
The record of William Clayton in Utah kept pace with that of previous years. His home was open always to his friends who loved to gather there for social hours. Civic welfare always interested him. He was a musician and played in the pioneer orchestra and that of the Salt Lake Theatre. He was a lover of community features and took part in dramatic functions.
He was treasurer of Zion's Cooperative Mercantile Institution, Recorder of Marks and Brands, Receiver of Weights and Measures, and was Territorial Auditor. His love for education prompted many sacrifices and he tried hard to give his children the essentials of good schooling.
He had a strong will, although a tender conscience. Cowardice had no place in him. Truly he could say, "My heart is fixed. I know in whom I trust." Joseph Smith believed that they should meet and associate in the Celestial Kingdom of God as they had here.
William Clayton died December 4, 1879, in Salt Lake City. Services were held in the Seventeenth Ward Chapel at which his own funeral hymn was sung. He left a large posterity.
Victoria C. McCune
Salt Lake City, Utah, June, 1921
The descendants of William Clayton have in recent years formed themselves into an organization known as the Clayton Family Association. This book is offered to the public by the Association with the thought that a document of such faithful description and fine spirit would be welcomed by all people who might be interested either in the Pioneer Period of Western History or more particularly in the exodus of the Mormon people from Missouri to the valley of the Great Salt Lake. It is difficult to understand why the Journal was not published years ago and it seems to require somewhat of an apology that this interesting record should have remained so long unknown and be now brought out with considerable haste. In the effort to have it ready for distribution to the members of the Clayton Family Association on the anniversary of the birth of their forefather on July 17th, there has been a sacrifice of care and deliberation in the preparation of this first edition which is hoped the reader will overlook upon consideration of the facts. This lack of time and care will show itself more in the text than in any other particular. Much of the proof reading was done by the undersigned on board train between Salt Lake and California. To say the least, such surroundings are not conducive to the most finished work. It is hoped that this circumstance will also make the reader more tolerant when encountering mistakes in the text, obviously the result of hasty proof reading. At a later date a second edition will do better justice to the author of the Journal and will show more consideration for the fine taste of the reader.
Lawrence Clayton
Salt Lake City, Utah, June, 1921
Nauvoo, Illinois
At the office all day packing public goods, evening at Farr's writing out a letter of instruction to trustees.
At the office packing. At 3:30 the temple was seen on fire. Women carrying water.
At the temple packing, also Wednesday 11th.
At home preparing to move.
Sent four loads of goods over the river. Loading and packing.
Packing and seeking letters.
Riding around to get teams and things together. Sent two teams over the river.
Still loading teams, also Tuesday 17th.
Got about ready to go over the river. Evening President Brigham Young, Heber C. Kimball, J. M. Grant and some of the pioneers came to hurry us over. N. K. Whitney also came in. We conversed together some. They state the brethren have made a perfect waste of food and property in the camp.
This morning the ground is covered with snow. It is so windy they cannot cross the river. Continued to snow all day. Evening went to Elder Babbit's to supper with Elder Kimball. President Young was there, Backenstos, J. M. Grant and some others.
The weather is very cold and windy. Impossible to cross the river. Spent the day running after things to get ready, fixing wagons and chopping fire wood.
We have spent the past week waiting for crossing over the [Mississippi] river. It has been hard frost and much snow. This morning I concluded to start over the river and began early to send my teams. About noon I crossed with my family and then rested the teams and soon after went on to the camp where we arrived a little before four o'clock. Bishop Whitney concluded to stay at the river until morning because some of his teams could not get over. When we got to the camp we were received with joy and formed in the company of the band. The weather is still very cold especially during the night. The distance from Nauvoo to this place is called seven and a half miles.
A.M. arranging my tents, etc. At twelve was sent for to council and about two the band was requested to go and meet bishop Whitney and his teams. We went and met him five miles from the camp. We played some time and then returned to the camp. President Young, Heber C. Kimball, P. P. Pratt, Orson Pratt and others accompanied us. At night played with the band.
A.M. preparing to march to the next encampment. At ten a lecture was given by Elder Kimball and about one the company proceeded to the next camp about four and a half miles, where we arrived in good season.
Started this morning for another camp about eight miles where we arrived about five p.m., the roads being somewhat hilly and muddy. The band played at night. During the day the artillery company broke into our ranks several times and broke a number of our wagon boxes. At night they complained of us at headquarters, but after hearing our story the matter stood about right.
Proceeded on our journey through Farmington about eight miles to a place where bishop Miller was encamped and arrived in good season. The band played at night.
This morning we concluded to stay a day and fix up some wagons which were broken. A number of the citizens from Farmington came to the camp and gave a very pressing invitation for the band to go to Farmington and play some. Accordingly about three o'clock, the band started and arrived at Farmington about 4:30 p.m. We played at the principal hotel and then went to the school house and played till nearly dark. The house was filled with men and women, the leading people of the place. We then returned to the hotel where they had provided us with a good supper. They also gave us $5 in money. John Kay sang a number of songs. At eight o'clock we returned and when we left they gave us three cheers. When we arrived at the camp we met thirty of the guard just starting out to meet us. The President felt uneasy at our staying so long and was sending the men to protect us.
Proceeded on our journey. Crossed the Des Moines river at Bonaparte and afterwards had a very bad road up the bluff for several miles which detained us until late in the afternoon. We stopped awhile to feed the band teams inasmuch as they had none this morning. We then started and went to the next camping ground, making the day's journey about sixteen miles.
Proceeded about eight miles to a camp ground near to a Dr. Elberts where the band camped. President Young was behind and when he arrived he went on about eight miles farther. The band went to work splitting rails for corn and made before dark, about 1:30. In the evening Dr. Elbert and some others came to hear the band play. Kay sang some songs which pleased them.
Waited for orders from headquarters. Many of the citizens came to hear the band play and gave us a very pressing invitation to go to Keosaugua and give a concert. About noon word came that we should follow on to the camp. We immediately struck tents and started and we arrived at the main camp about five o'clock. Some of the citizens from Keosaugua followed us waiting for an answer whether we would give a concert as soon as we arrived at the camp. I asked the President whether the band should go to Keosaugua to give a concert. He advised us to go and I immediately sent out the appointment and then we pitched our tents forming a line on the road opposite to the President's company.
Spent the day chiefly preparing for the concert and attending on my family.
The weather still continues fine. Spent the morning preparing for the concert and about one o'clock p.m. started in company with the brass band for Keosaugua. I rode in Elder Kimball's wagon with William Kimball, J. Smithies and Wm. Pitt. The distance from the camp to Keosaugua is about ten miles, the camp being at a place called Richardson's point. We arrived at Keosaugua about three o'clock and being requested we went through the town and played some. One of the grocery keepers invited us to play him a tune which we did. He then invited us in and offered to treat us to anything he had. We each took a little and then the next grocery keeper sent an invitation for us to play him a tune. We did so and he also gave us anything he had. A beer keeper next sent word that he did not want us to slight him and we went and played him a tune and then took some of his cake and beer. We then marched up to the Des Moines hotel near the court-house where we had ordered supper and after eating we went to the courthouse to prepare for the concert. At seven o'clock the house was crowded and we commenced, playing and singing till about 9:30. The audience seemed highly pleased and gave loud applause. About the close one of the citizens got up and said it was the wish of many that we should repeat the concert the following evening and he took a vote of all who wished us to go again. The vote was unanimous. We made nearly $25.00 clear of all expenses. We started back for the camp soon after ten and arrived about one o'clock all well and pleased.
In the morning I reported to President Young our success and the request of the citizens of Keosaugua and he advised us to go again. We accordingly started about eleven o'clock. I again rode with William Kimball, Horace Whitney and James Smithies. When we arrived we were welcomed again with the same kind feelings as yesterday. Pitt had a severe chill all the way and when we got there it commenced raining and made it very unpleasant. The house was again filled but we only made $20.00 besides all expenses. We learned that there is a party of socialists there and they and the priests are much opposed to each other. We also learned that a man named McCully was in jail close by under sentence to be hung on the 4th of April for murdering a man and a child. I did not feel so well at the concert as on the night previous on several accounts. We started back between eleven and twelve and got to the camp about three o'clock.
The band moved to better ground about one quarter of a mile farther. The heavy rains had made it very muddy and unpleasant, all our bedding and things being wet.
Went hunting.
Wrote a letter to Diantha.
In camp all day.
Some of the citizens of Keosaugua came again to request us to give another concert. We agreed to go tomorrow evening.
Started for Keosaugua with Pitt, Hutchinson, Kay, Smithies and Egan. I took my music box and china to try and sell them. We arrived in good season and soon learned that the priests had been hard at work preventing the sectarians from coming to the concert, saying that it was an infidel move consequently there were not many present. We had far the best concert which lasted till nine o'clock. We then went over to the hotel, took supper and played for a private party till about three o'clock. We only cleared from both, about $7.00 over expenses but were well treated.
It rained last night and this morning again and we almost concluded to go to Fairfield, but finally determined to return to camp. We visited with a Mr. Bridgman who treated us very kindly. Bought about eight bushels of beans and some articles for President Young and then returned to camp. It rained some again today. We got back about five o'clock. After dark Dr. Elbert came to see my china and said if I would take it over tomorrow he would buy it.
Went to ask council whether I should go to sell my china. Saw Heber who advised me to go. A few of us started and soon met President Young who said we had better go back and go with the camp who were then starting on their way. We accordingly turned back our horses and struck tents in a hurry. At twelve o'clock we started on our journey. After traveling about six or seven miles we had to go up a very bad bluff which took us till five o'clock. President Young's company went ahead of us and camped three miles from the bluff. Some of our teams gave out and we only went about a mile from the bluff and camped in a little point of timber a little from the road. Our teams were very tired.
We started early in the morning and soon came up with the main body of the camp. I rode ahead about three miles to hunt my cow. We did not have her last night being with the main camp. We traveled nine or ten miles and then rested our teams. We started again and traveled three miles farther where we found the President and Heber camped on the brink of a long bluff. We concluded to go to the other bank which we did and camped in a good place. In the evening the band went and played for the President and Heber and then went to a farmer's house at the owner's request about three quarters of a mile from camp to play for his family. He promised to give us some honey if we would play for him. We played about an hour and then left but neither saw nor heard anything of the honey. We learned afterwards, however, that Hutchinson had a pail under his cloak and got it full of honey after the rest had left the house and kept it to himself, very slyly.
Started again and soon came to the Shariton bottoms which is a very low land for about four miles. The road was bad and it took us sometime to cross. While on the bottom Root and Davis came again. Root had asked permission of President Young to go back to his family some days ago but it seems things did not go to suit him and he followed his team again. It took sometime to go up the bluff. We had to let the teams down into the Shariton river by ropes and also helped them up again by the same means. Our company got over in good season but we concluded to camp after getting up the bluff as it would take till night for the whole to get up. I spent the day helping the teams till I was so sore and tired I could scarcely walk.
In council with Brigham, Heber, and others. We found that Miller's company had gone still farther about eight miles instead of waiting till we overtook them so that we could organize. I wrote a letter to them saying if they did not wait or return to organize, the camp would organize without and they be disfellowshiped. We concluded to stay at this place a few days to buy corn to last to Grand river but we found corn scarce and 26c a bushel, the farmers having advanced on account of a disposition to speculate.
At the camp writing, etc. It rained considerably.
Evening in council. Wrote a long letter to be sent to Emmet's company by John Butler and James W. Cummings. This morning wrote another letter to P. P. Pratt, Orson Pratt, George Miller telling them they must wait for us or come back to organize. The letters were sent by Smithies. He met them on the way and about noon P. P. Pratt, Orson Pratt, John Kay and G. Miller came into camp and at 1:00 p.m. the council met. The brethren plead that the charges in the letters were unjust. They had not striven to keep out of the way but had done all for the best. The whole camp accordingly was organized, A. P. Rockwood over 1st 50; Stephen Markham, 2nd 50; Young, 3rd 50; Howard E. Kimball, 4th 50; Charles C. Rich, 5th 50; Charles Crisman, 6th 50. Each fifty had also appointed a contracting commissary for the purpose of contracting for work and grain as follows: Henry Sherwood 1st 50; David H. Kimball 2nd; Wm. H. Edwards 3rd; Peter Haws 4th; Joseph Worthen 5th; Samuel Gully 6th. It was understood that I continue to preside over the band and in the absence of Brother Haws over the whole fifty. After this there was appointed for each fifty a distributing commissary to distribute feed in camp as follows: Charles Kennedy for 1st 50; J. M. Grant 2nd 50; Nathan Tanner 3rd 50; Orson B. Adams 4th 50; James Allred 5th 50; Isaac Allred 6th 50. The brethren then gave the following instructions for the whole camp with orders that same be observed hereafter, viz. No man to set fire to prairies. No man to shoot off a gun in camp without orders. No man to go hunting unless he is sent and all to keep guns, swords and pistols out of sight. There was then appointed a clerk for each fifty as follows: John D. Lee Young, 1st 50; John Pack 2nd 50; Lorenzo Snow 3rd 50; Geo. H. Hales 4th 50; John Oakley 5th 50; A. Lathrop 6th 50. The council then adjourned to meet at Shariton Ford camp on Monday at 10 a.m. We then returned to our camp where we arrived just at dark.
In camp making out forms for clerks of 50's and also copied letter to James Emmet.
Making forms for clerks of 50's and felt quite unwell all day with bad cold.
Met with the council. The guard and pioneers were divided and distributed amongst the several companies of 50's. It was also agreed that company No. 4 should go on to the next camp tomorrow and the remainder of the day following. Jackson Redding sold one of Keller's horses for one yoke of oxen, leaving me as bad off for teams as before.
It was concluded we could not get ready to move until tomorrow. O. P. Rockwell arrived with the mail. I received a letter from Diantha and father. President Young received one from the trustees, one from Matlock and one from E. Pratt which I read in council. I was ordered to write an answer to the trustees' and Matlock's letter, but being late I left it till morning when I was quite unwell. I got two new teamsters, Levi Kendall and Swap.
President Young also sent me two yoke of oxen, wagon, and Brother Jones, the owner, to assist me. We divided the load out of the spare wagons putting a yoke of oxen to each and about 11:00 started on our journey. Mother was very sick, and could not bear to ride. She walked all the way. I felt very unwell myself, having much pain in my limbs. The roads were bad, but we arrived in camp about 2:00 and got on good ground. After getting our tents fixed, fires made, etc., I went to wrestling, jumping etc., to try to get well. I over-exerted myself without any symptoms of perspiration and was so sick after I had to go to bed.
I was very sick all day and unable to write the letters or meet with the council. O. P. Rockwell started back to Nauvoo with letters. One of the Brother Hales arrived to say to his brother who drives team for Pitt that his family is very sick and wants him to go back but we cannot spare the team and he says it is no use for him to go back without it. At night I wrote again to Diantha and sent it by Brother Hale who returns tomorrow.
This morning it was decided to start early so as to get over the bad roads and also travel about fifteen miles. We had to send a wagon and team to fetch the eight bushels of corn which some of the band earned by playing last night. We started, however, about eight o'clock. The roads were very bad and when we had traveled about three miles it began to thunder and rain. The clouds gathered fast and it soon showed signs for heavy rain the whole day. We reached Bishop Whitney's camp about noon and rested our teams while the rest came up. We then started again in the heavy rain and bad roads and traveled about three miles to Bishop Miller's camp. We had a very bad bluff to rise and had to double teams to get up. On the top I met Heber camped. He selected a camping ground for us and advised us to go no farther. President Young has gone on six or seven miles. It was about 5:00 before all our teams got up and it rained heavily all the time. Mother walked all day again in the rain. I was very sick myself and unable to do anything. Yesterday the portion of the guard detailed to our company joined in with us, being Orvil M. Allen and eight men. They reported themselves destitute of everything and said they had lived a week on corn meal gruel, Stout and Hunter having made them serve as their body guard and used them very hard. I dealt out some of my own flour and bacon to them, determined to comfort them some if I could and not being willing to see anyone in our company suffer while I have anything left. It continued to rain all night very hard.
This morning all our clothing, beds and bed clothing were drenched and it has continued to rain all day. I have been sick again all day especially towards night. I was so distressed with pain it seemed as though I could not live. I went to bed and put a bag of hot salt on my chest which seemed to give me some ease but I suffered much through the night, and it continued to rain until after midnight. We put an extra cover on our sleeping wagon, which kept out the rain. We have only slept in the wagon three nights but have slept under a tent on the wet ground. Haws' company are now formed with us, making our 50 nearly complete. A number of the company feel unwell on account of the rain and wet.
This morning I feel a little better and the day is fine and pleasant. I have spent the day writing in this journal, having written from memory all since the date of March 9th. Some of the dates may not be correct but the matters recorded are true. It is now 1:00 p.m. There is a meeting at Elder Kimball's camp but I am sent here in this wagon to fetch up this record. My health is somewhat better for which I feel thankful. Elder Kimball says we had better not attempt to move tomorrow. We can get corn within ten miles from here and he will help us to means. We have now to lay in corn to last till we get to Grand River about fifty miles farther, there being no farms on the road. On Friday evening I appointed Charles Terry captain of my ten and Henry A. Terry clerk and my brother James to attend on my family agreeable with the orders of the President that I may be able to spend my time writing for the council and camp and attend councils. Elder Kimball instructed the captains of tens to call their companies together at 4:00. Agreeable with this, the band assembled in front of my tent and administered the sacrament. Wm. F. Cahoon and Charles A. Terry officiated. I spoke about three quarters of an hour on various subjects touching on our journey and the policy we ought to use, etc. After I had done Elder Haws spoke on some subjects and the meeting adjourned. The captains then went over to Elder Kimball's camp about sending for corn. We concluded to send four teams for our 50, Captain Egan and Haws then went through the camp to see if they could obtain some money. Haws obtained $31.45 and Egan $9.00. I sent $14.00 by Egan for some. Wrote to Diantha.
It has rained again the last night and continued to rain all day very heavily. The camp is very disagreeable and muddy. I spent the day reading. About 5:00 the clouds began to break and it looks more likely for being fair. In the evening Elder Kimball came over and the band met opposite Hutchinson's wagon and played some. After that the quadrille band met in my tent and played on the violins. All the time we were playing the lightning occasionally broke forth from the northwest and at 8:00 we dispersed just as the storm approached. Before I got to my tent the wind arrived and soon blew a perfect gale with heavy rain, hail, lightning and thunder. It continued for an hour and then abated some. All the tents in our company except mine and Pack's were blown down. The rain beat through the wagon covers and drenched the families and effects. It was the most severe storm we have experienced and with such wind it seems impossible to preserve our little clothing and provisions from being spoiled. But in the midst of all, the camp seems cheerful and happy and there are but few sick.
This morning it is fair but cold and windy. The ground is frozen stiff and considerable ice. Many of the tents are still lying flat and everything around shows that the storm was very severe. A number of the band have no meat and some no flour nor in fact scarcely any provisions and several have had little, only what I have given them out of the stock I laid in for my family. I have this morning given the guard the bag of flour Miller left and a piece of pork and also a piece to Redding. The day continued fine but roads almost impassable. Evening the band played some.
This morning the ground was hard again. But the weather looks more for rain. I went out with Captain Cahoon and President Haws to look out a better camp ground and we concluded to move on a little farther west about a quarter of a mile. It took the company all day to move, it being almost impossible to move the loads even with tripling teams. About five o'clock Egan and the teams came back with fifty-seven bushels of corn. He had to give 21c a bushel for nearly all of it. Elder Kimball came over soon after to see if he could not get some of it. While we were talking President Pratt and his company arrived and reported that their teams have had no corn since yesterday morning neither could they get any. Heber remarked that he would say no more about us letting him have any although we had only enough to feed five ears a feed every three days, and a journey of about fifty miles before we can get any more with bad roads. We let Parley have one load. Heber came with me to our camp and handed me a letter from President Young requesting us all to go on which I read to the company. I felt very unwell again and went to bed early.
This morning we concluded to pursue our journey, President Kimball and his company started out about seven o'clock. President Pratt started out with his company. Our company waited for the latter to start in its place till after eight o'clock and then we went on. The roads were very bad indeed. About noon it commenced raining heavily which made the roads still worse. We had calculated to go about eight miles to timber but after toiling till about four o'clock and having traveled only about five miles and our teams being entirely worn down we turned out of the road to a little branch of water to camp. Several of my teams stuck and we had to work till dark to get part of them to camp and two wagons we were compelled to leave over night. Quite a number were obliged to stay back on the prairie and Charles Hale did not come more than a quarter of a mile from where we started this morning. Elder Kimball has camped one and a half miles farther on the open prairie and many of his teams are yet behind. P. P. Pratt's company are here with us as well as George Miller's company except those behind on the prairie. It continued to rain very heavily until night. We could not make a fire and had little for supper, our provisions being in one of the wagons back. This is the most severe time we have had but yet the camp seems in good spirits.
The weather is yet very wet and gloomy. I spent the morning talking to Margaret. At seven o'clock a gale struck up and blew our tents over. We then concluded to move a few rods lower out of the wind. Before we got moved the wind moved to the west and it grew very cold. Our teams are gone back to fetch some of the wagons left last night. It rains and blows very badly and is very severe on our women and teams. Margaret and Lidia are out all the time and continually wetting both feet and all over. We expect Robert Burton's, one of Peck's, Peart's and my wagons in tonight. One of mine was fetched early in the morning. Our teams fare hard with wet and cold, having very little corn.
This morning rode with Egan to help to get Brother Peart's wagon out of the slough. It took five yoke of oxen and twelve men to draw it out. The roads are yet very bad but it is fair and very cold. We sent twelve yoke of oxen to bring up Peck's and Charles Hale's wagon. They got in late at night.
This morning before I got up, P. P. Pratt called and said that President Young wants the council to meet at Heber's camp at ten o'clock. I started out with Captain Egan on foot and arrived in season. Had some conversation with Ellen Sanders Kimball and then went to council. It was decided to change our route and take a more northern one to avoid the settlements. We will go to Grand River and there enclose a space of land about two miles square and put up some twenty log houses for a resting place for the companies. A company starts out in a day or two to seek out the location amongst whom are the President, Heber and others of the twelve. A company will also be sent west to Judge Miller's to go to work for feed, etc. After council I took dinner with Heber, the President being with us. I then wrote a letter to the trustees and returned with Captain Egan to our camp and soon after went to bed. The day has been fine but cold.
Finished my letter to Diantha and then went over to Peck's blacksmith shop. We had concluded not to leave till morning. While there a message arrived saying that Haws has sent eight yoke of cattle to help us on. We then concluded to start forthwith, being noon. But although we had so many extra teams, we had to leave three wagons in camp over night. Four of my folks walked all the way but still it was hard for me to get along. Keller had to stay back over night. I arrived at Locust Creek, being about four miles journey, about six o'clock and sent the cattle back for Peck and Steven Hales but they did not return till morning. In the evening the band played some. James broke his wagon tongue. We camped a little north of President Heber's camp.
The weather is again very fine. Because some of the wagons did not come, Egan and I concluded to go and meet them and not start farther until tomorrow. We met the teams close by and then took a northern course a hunting. We saw only squirrels and I got five of them. About noon we returned and found the camp mostly gone. Orders had come from the President for the whole to move to his camp today. Charles Terry and Henry were gone a hunting which detained me till about three o'clock. James and I then started with the four wagons. They overtook us when we had got about one half mile. We found the road very bad and had to double teams, our horses being so badly worn down. Charles Terry broke a wagon tongue.
Last night I got up to watch, there being no guard. The cattle and horses breaking into the tents and wagons. I tarried up then called S. Hales and Kimball. This morning Ellen Kimball came to me and wishes me much joy. She said Diantha has a son. I told her I was afraid it was not so, but she said Brother Pond had received a letter. I went over to Pond's and he read that she had a fine fat boy on the 30th ult., but she was very sick with ague and mumps. Truly I feel to rejoice at this intelligence but feel sorry to hear of her sickness. Spent the day chiefly reading. In the afternoon President Young came over and found some fault about our wagons, etc. In the evening the band played and after we dismissed the following persons retired to my tent to have a social christening, viz. William Pitt, Hutchinson, Smithies, Kay, Egan, Duzett, Redding, William Cahoon, James Clayton and Charles A. Terry and myself. We had a very pleasant time playing and singing until about twelve o'clock and drank health to my son. We named him William Adriel Benoni Clayton. The weather has been fine but rains a little tonight. Henry Terry's horses are missing and have been hunted today but not found. This morning I composed a new song--"All is well." I feel to thank my heavenly father for my boy and pray that he will spare and preserve his life and that of his mother and so order it so that we may soon meet again. O Lord bless thine handmaid and fill her with thy spirit, make her healthy that her life may be prolonged and that we may live upon the earth and honor the cause of truth. In the evening I asked the President if he would not suffer me to send for Diantha. He consented and said we would send when we got to Grand River.
This morning prepared to proceed on our journey but a span of horses in our company in care of Henry Terry being missing we concluded not to start. I sent out three men to hunt them. Soon after they were brought into camp by another person. I then sent Henry Terry to hunt for the men but it was after two o'clock before they returned. We fed a little corn and then started. The company is far ahead of us. We traveled very slowly our teams were so weak. However, we soon came into sight of the camp but it was six o'clock before we got there, having traveled about seven miles. The camp was formed on a beautiful prairie, President Young's camp being on a little eminence. President Kimball's about three quarters of a mile north of his and ours about a quarter of a mile east. There is some little grass for our cattle here, but little. We sent those of our company about a mile southeast and had a guard over them through the night. President Haws, Captains Egan and Kay and Jackson Redding went out a hunting. George Hale's cattle were so worn down that they could not get along and when within about a mile of camp about fifteen of the brethren went to help. They took a rope and fixed it on the wagon, loosed the cattle and brought it in themselves, singing all the way. At night the band played and then I retired to bed.
This morning very fine. Some of the camp started very early on the way. I was ready about eight o'clock but was detained on account of Captain Haws, Egan and others having gone hunting. I left Margaret to drive my team and sent them on and I drove the cattle on foot. We formed our encampment on a high dry place.
While the rest are gone to meeting I turned to unpacking and took an inventory of church property. It took till about four o'clock to get through. Daniel Spencer's company had arrived about five o'clock. Porter Rockwell and Edwin Cutler arrived with the mail. Received a letter from Diantha confirming the birth of my son, also a letter from A. W. Babbit on some business. Went to see the President to show him the inventory but could not find him. About dark he sent for me and I went again but he was gone and I did not see him. My mare got in a mud hole last night and is very badly strained. Evening went to council and read many letters and wrote one to Elder Hyde.
At nine o'clock went to council. Had to read some letters and several pieces from papers. A report was read of all those who are able to fit themselves for the mountains. A law was made on motion of President Young that any person who interrupts the council hereafter by talking or otherwise, shall be deprived the privilege of the council till the council see proper to admit him. The public teams being brought together, the bishops took a list of them to be disposed of at Grand River. After council I went to work to assort the articles to be sold, etc. Wrote to Diantha.
This morning the main body of the camp are gone, but I am obliged to tarry and pack up the public goods again and re-load my wagons. I weighed most of our loads and it took until night to get through. Charles Terry's horse and one of mine are unable to drag any.
I had intended to start early this morning but our horses were away which detained us till nearly nine o'clock. About that time we started and traveled slowly about four and a half miles. We then stopped at 11:30 and thought we would rest our teams and get them cooled off. The sun was very warm and they sweat considerably. Word came that O. P. Rockwell was on his way and would call for letters. We intended to wait until he came. I wrote a short letter to A. W. Babbit and one to father but Porter failed to call, and at two o'clock we started again. We traveled until about three o'clock when we passed Orson Pratt who had concluded to stay a piece east of where the camp had tarried last night. He said all the grass was eaten up for several miles around. We concluded to go beyond the timber where the main camp stayed last night but tried to find grass for our teams. We started onward. At the creek watered our teams and rested awhile. We then went on about a mile and a half and found good grass and much of it. We at once concluded to tarry there. We had put a little wood into our wagons to cook with. We arrived on the ground about six o'clock and then got the best camp ground we have had for some time.
Three of our teams were behind when we arrived. Horlick got in about a half an hour after us and then afterwards Swap and Jones arrived at 7:30. We are all comfortable but very tired, having traveled about ten miles. My wife Ruth walked all the way and myself also. The rest walked by turns. We have seen many rattlesnakes today. The weather is very fine.
This last night has been very stormy with heavy thunder, hail, rain and wind. The thunder and lightning was very loud and the rain fell in torrents. The weather continues cold and cloudy with some fine showers. There appears some heavy rain in the east and north. Grass looks green and the cattle have filled themselves well. We started about ten o'clock and soon found that last night's rain had made the roads much worse. After traveling about four miles we stopped to graze our teams, being one o'clock. While resting Elders Taylor and Orson Pratt passed on horseback. At three o'clock we started again and about four came to the President's camp. He was just returning from an exploring tour to find out better roads. His camp was on the east of a piece of timber. He gave orders to move to the other side of the timber about a mile from where he then was. We concluded to move on and finally camped on the next ridge southwest of his. Our teams are tired and there is not much grass. A number of the horses have been bitten by rattlesnakes and one is dead. There are a great number of these snakes on these prairies. The President says the road to the next timber is all ridges and hollows and will be hard on teams. We got camped about 5:30 p.m., and before we got fixed a thunder storm came on with heavy rain but it was soon over and the evening afterwards was fine.
This morning the President's company made a bridge over a creek and started again on their journey. Four of my horses were missing and I sent men to hunt them and went myself. They were found about ten o'clock. We tarried until about twelve to rest and then started. We went about two miles and stayed until four o'clock to graze our teams and then went on again and about six o'clock got to timber. I went to hunt a camping spot with Egan. We saw some women who told us Grand River was only a mile ahead and that the other companies were required to go down there. We started and soon arrived at the main body of the camp. We formed on the south side of the camp. The ground here is rich, timber good, and the prospects good for heavy crops. Here we calculated to tarry a while, fence in a piece of land and those who are not prepared to go through to tarry and raise crops. Wild onions grow in abundance. The weather has been fine today. Evening those of the band who are here went to Bishop Miller's tent and played for the President and a Mr. Bryant who lives about thirty miles from here. Pitt, George, Charles and Steven Hales and William F. Cahoon are way back as yet as well as Heber's company.
This morning started by daybreak fishing. About 7:30 the President sent for me. I came back but he was gone. President Haws is regulating the company to watch our teams and also go to making rails, etc. The morning is fine. About nine o'clock Kendall, one of my teamsters, brought one of the horses he drives into camp which had been bitten by a rattlesnake. His nose had begun to swell badly. We got some spirits of turpentine and bathed the wound, washed his face in salt and water and gave him some snakes master root boiled in milk. He yet seems very sick. Our men have made a pen for the cattle at night. I feel quite unwell today. Spent the day chiefly reading. Evening Kennedy came to look at our horse and says they have given sufficient of the master root to kill four well horses. The horse looks very sick and is already scarcely able to stand. The band played a few tunes at night. About nine o'clock it rained somewhat and continued to shower through the night. Pitt arrived in camp this afternoon.
The first news I heard this morning was that the horse was dead. This is a very unlucky circumstance for me for I am already very deficient in teams. Moreover, three of my teams leave me here, viz. Horlick, Chas. A. Terry and Jones with their wagons and teams. I shall then have about quarter teams enough to draw the loads. I have about three thousand pounds of church property besides my own goods. I see little chance of my moving from here at present. The morning was wet but it cleared off and continued so all day. I spent the day reading and writing while the rest went to meeting. Evening was sent for to go to council. Read a letter from O. Hyde stating that they had had an offer of two hundred thousand dollars for the temple. He writes of hard times in Nauvoo. The council selected one hundred men to make rails, forty-eight to build houses; twelve to dig wells; ten to build a bridge and the rest to go to farming.
Steven Markham, C. C. Rich, L. C. Wilson, James Pace to oversee the rail cutting. Brigham Young, Heber C. Kimball, P. P. Pratt and Geo. A. Smith the house building. A. P. Rockwood to boss bridge building. President Young to boss him and the whole camp and Jacob Peart to boss well digging. The council decided to wait until morning to decide relative to selling the temple. After we adjourned I went into my wagon. I wrote a long letter to Diantha. It was about ten o'clock when I got through.
Rained all day. At 6:00 a.m., went to meeting. The men were divided out to work and commenced operations and had to quit on account of rain. After breakfast went to council, when it was voted to sell the temple, signifying as to the reason, it will be more likely to be preserved. It is as lawful to sell it to help the poor saints as to sell our inheritance. We do it because we are compelled to do it. I was ordered to write an answer to Elder Hyde's letter which I did, saying finally, if the temple was sold, $25,000 must be sent for the benefit of the camp. The balance to be left at the disposal of elder Hyde, Woodruff and the trustees and to be appropriated to help away those who have labored hard to build the temple and the faithful poor of the saints. Spent the balance of the day packing up china and crockery to be sent by Egan.
Weather very wet. Moved up on higher ground. Spent the morning unpacking chests for files and supplies. Afternoon unloading wagon to send a-trading. The weather very wet until night. President Young called over and said we had better not send Egan until the weather settles. The quadrille band have gone to give concerts in the Platte. They had to draw their wagons across the river by ropes the water was so high.
It still continues to rain and the ground is getting quite soft and muddy. Spent the day setting men to fixing yokes and bows. Walked out about a mile to the bluff west of us. It ceased raining about eleven o'clock and continued fair through the day.
Unpacking and re-packing chests all the day. It continues to rain more or less and the weather looks bad. Ruth is quite unwell.
This month brings the damp wet weather. Chas. Shumway and George Langley start for George Herring this morning being instructed to bring him on to Council Bluffs. Spent the day preparing for Egan to start trading. He has gone with Jackson Redding and has taken $288.00 of church property besides two span of horses and harness and near $60.00 of mine. Afternoon packing chests, etc. The weather finer and fairer.
The day is fine. Preparing some for Horlick's return to Nauvoo on Monday. Wrote to Diantha. Selling shoes.
The morning fair, windy and cloudy, southeast wind. Spent the morning making a list of all the company who have made their reports, also fixing tents. At ten o'clock went to meeting. O. Spencer talked a while and was followed by President Young who exhorted the camp to diligence in getting in crops for that will be our salvation the next winter. He said no company should start from here until the south field was made and some houses built. It commenced raining as the meeting closed and about three o'clock a thunder storm came on which lasted till near five o'clock. I spent the afternoon reading. Soon after five it cleared off some and the sun shone again. While at supper President Young called and stated that he wished that I should go to council with him. I started and the council met opposite his tent. It was decided that his fifty build the bridge tomorrow and all the rest to make rails and also that Sherwood and Orson Pratt go about twenty-five or thirty miles southwest to seek out another section.
Finished my letter to Diantha and sent it by John Richards. Horlick has concluded to tarry till my wagons are fixed. I spent the day examining my flour and crackers and helping to fix the tent as considerable of my crackers and flour are damaged on account of having poor wagons. I dreamed last night that I saw Diantha and her babe. Her babe was dressed in white and appeared to be lying down with its eyes closed. She was bent over it apparently in sorrow. When I went to her she flew to me earnestly but the babe seemed to be kept still and asleep, and I awoke. This dream has troubled me considerably. Evening met the clerks of 50's in my tent and instructed them how to make their reports, etc.
The weather very fine. I spent the day preparing to enter the reports on the record. Went over to J. D. Lee's and learned that some of the clerks had been to the President and told him that I had ordered that they should include in their reports each wife a man has. I did not do any such thing, only requested each name should be in full according to the order of a previous council. The President said it did not matter about the names being in full but I think in after days it will prove it does. Dr. Richards thinks as I do. The President, I understand, appeared quite angry. Many of the band are entirely destitute of provisions and my flour is so nearly down I have concluded to eat biscuit. I have given the band considerable of my biscuit already. At nine o'clock fixing my wagons. Expected a storm which soon afterwards commenced, raining and thundering very hard. Raining most of the night.
Writing in the camp record. In the afternoon a storm arose emitting very violent wind, thunder, lightning, rain and hail. Many tents blew over. One of mine blew over and most of our articles were wet and some nearly spoiled. I have been informed that Esther Kay has been offering bitter complaints because they do not fare as well as some others. The hint was thrown at Margaret and she understood that it was for me. I have today let Miss Kay a pair of shoes and took down a large bag of biscuits and divided it amongst those who are needy. I have all the time let them have flour, sugar, bacon and other things as I had them and to hear of dissatisfaction because I will not let them have the last I have grieves me. I have given to the band as near as I can estimate, twelve hundred pounds of flour, about four or five hundred pounds of bacon besides much of other things. Towards evening it did not rain so much but continued hard after we went to bed. The wind was very severe, almost as bad as I ever saw it for about a half an hour.
This morning it is dull, cloudy and cold. About nine o'clock commenced raining again. I have again given Sister Kay a quart cup full of sugar. I have spent the day entering reports on record.
The weather fine and pleasant. Spent the day fixing wagon covers and wagons. Andrew Cahoon arrived from Nauvoo with the mail but no letter from Diantha or father. He says the troops arrested O. P. Rockwell last Thursday evening and took him to Carthage and thence to Quincy jail. It is doubtful whether he will now escape their cruel vengeance. This morning the mare had a colt. I have felt quite unwell all day. Evening went to President Young's to get records to look for a deed from Hiram Kimball to Ira S. Miles. Searched till near ten o'clock but the deed is not on record. Kimball seems disposed to take all the advantages he can from everyone.
Morning fixing wagon cover, counseling with Wm. Cahoon and then was called aside by the President to read two letters from Sister Harris and her son. Dr. Richards, John Smith and Heber were present. Afternoon went fishing. The weather fine and no wind.
Wrote a letter to Diantha, one to trustees, one to father, one to Brother Burdick, one to Thos. Moore and one to John Everett. Keller returned with thirteen bushels of meal and 250 pounds of bacon from the guard, having been gone twelve days. Evening went to council to Heber's tent. Samuel Bent having been appointed at today's meeting to preside over those left on his arm, he chose David Fullmer and Ezra T. Benson for counselors. P. P. Pratt was advised to start as soon as possible for Platte River to take all who were prepared to go.
Morning distributing meal and bacon to the band. Afterwards the President, Heber, and Dr. Richards came and took some cordage. Afternoon weighing and loading.
Sent Keller and Corbite to the mills to try and get flour, meal and two cows. Weighing and packing. About nine was sent for to go to council. I waited about two hours before anything was done. The vote for Ezra T. Benson to stay as counselor for father Bent was rescinded and it was voted to take Aron Johnson in his place. A letter of authority was written for father Bent by Dr. Richards but he made me copy it, and afterwards when the President spoke to him to write to O. P. Rockwell he favored me to do that although I left three men waiting to weigh my loading and load my wagon. The fact is I can scarcely ever go to council but Dr. Richards wants me to do his writing, although I have more writing to do as clerk of the camp than I can possibly do. Moreover I have to unpack the chest and wait on all of them with the public goods in my charge which keeps me busy all the time. President Young, Heber, Dr. Richards and Bishop Whitney have all made out to get lumber sawed to make their wagons comfortable but I can't get enough to make a hind board for one of my wagons, which has none. They are tolerably well prepared with wagons and teams but I am here with about five tons of stuff and only six wagons and five yoke of oxen to take it. I have dealt out nearly all of my provisions and have to get more before I can go on. It looks as if I had to be a slave and take slave's fare all the journey for it has worked that way so far. After council I was weighing and loading, etc., until night. We had some rain at night.
The morning fair, but cloudy. Still loading my wagons and preparing to move. President Young and Heber's companies have gone and left me. I asked Jones and Terry what provisions I should have to leave them while they put in the crops. They concluded that 25 lbs. of corn meal each, and from 25 to 50 lbs. of bacon for three of them would be enough for twenty days. I think so, for we do not use as much meat in the same time in my whole family and as to 25 lbs. of corn meal each for so long a time, it is far more than my family can have. I have also to supply Horlick with provisions to take him back to Nauvoo and have kept four of them since they came here while they are to work for themselves. All this continues to weaken my hands for the journey. I have to get three new teamsters and also feed them while the others are living on my food. Markham came in the evening and said the President had sent word to father Bent to raise cattle enough to take my load to the new place tomorrow morning but I cannot go because my horses have gone to the mill for meal. Evening it commenced raining again and rained nearly all night.
This morning is fair, but cloudy and like for more rain. Jones has concluded to leave for Nauvoo this morning and leave his son to plant for him. I have given him and Charles A. Terry a letter of recommendation. Jones asked me and said I would have to leave him some provisions while he put in his crops but I do not feel to do it for I think it is far more reasonable that the company for whom he has been working should supply him instead of me doing it out of the little provisions I have. I have left Charles and Henry Terry 50 lbs. of meal and 14 lbs. of bacon besides boarding them two weeks while they have been working on their farm. I went to see Brother Bent about the teams and from him learned that he could only raise three yoke of oxen and no wagon. I went to see Crisman who had promised two yoke and told him I should start in the morning then went and spent the day fixing the loads, etc.
This morning Crisman called and said he should not let his cattle go until Brother Miller returned. I then concluded to take what teams I had and take my wagons and go on a few miles. I borrowed two yoke of oxen from Sister Kay and started. We got the wagons over the river and on the bluff about a mile and then stopped to let the teams feed. I walked on and met Brothers Miller, Pitt, Kay, and Hutchinson with a large drove of cows and cattle. I told Brother Miller my situation and the request of the President but I could get no satisfaction. We moved on with half of the wagons and I selected a spot over a quarter of a mile from timber. They then went back for the other wagons and got them all up about six o'clock. Reddings have come here also, and Sister Egan with one or two others.
This morning is fine but the weather doesn't look like being fair long. I have concluded to send two wagons through and wait until the teams return before I can move farther. Swap and Conrad are gone with all the teams I have and I have sent A. Johnson's cattle back because they were useless unless I could have more. The day was very warm. I spent the day mostly reading. Afternoon Duzett, Hutchinson and Pitt arrived with their wagons.
Spent the day mostly reading. Weather very warm. Afternoon Bishop Miller's company passed but he did not leave me any cattle although he has plenty and many cows. This agrees with his course, for from about two months before we left Nauvoo to the present, he has done nothing but for himself.
Morning went on the road about two miles to see if I could meet Keller and Corbitt. It rained and thundered some and continued cloudy through the day.
Spent the morning reading, afterwards went fishing. Some teams returned from camp and said that some from Nauvoo had arrived there which started two weeks ago last Saturday and that Elder Hyde had advised all the saints to move over the river as fast as possible from Nauvoo, and they have their ferry boats constantly employed. A number are already on their way here.
This morning is very rainy and cold. Spun twenty yards of fish line and tied on eleven hooks. Swap and Conrad returned soon after eleven o'clock. They say the camp is about thirty miles ahead. They confirm the report of some having arrived from Nauvoo and say they were told that my father is on his way here. The roads are lined with teams, etc., on the other road north of this. Horlick came this afternoon for more victuals. Although he is a good wagon maker and carpenter, he is either unwilling to work or the camp at the farms is unwilling to board him for his work which I hardly believe. It seems as though teamsters are resolved to live on me till they eat all I have and I now lack about three thousand lbs. of provisions to proceed with. I can learn of no one who has fed his teamsters as long as I have after they stopped teaming and moreover, the teamsters started with church property but I have sustained them out of my own provisions. Towards evening it was fair but still threatens to rain again. I cannot yet learn a word from Diantha but think she must be on her way. My family is yet in good health except Margaret who looks sick but doesn't complain.
Continued raining this morning but about noon it began to be fine. About five o'clock a heavy thunder storm came up and it started raining heavily. Storm after storm kept coming far into the night. Wilham F. Gaboon called on his way up between the two companies. He wanted some salt but I had none for him.
This morning fine but cloudy, ground wet and soft. Wrote some in the camp record. About nine o'clock started on the road to look for a good camp ground. James started at the same time on horseback to see if he could meet Keller. I went about three miles and waited till he returned but no news from Keller. I concluded to move my camp about three miles and sent James back to load up and come on. I waited until they came. It was after five o'clock before they came up, the loads being heavy and the teams weak, the loads being too heavy for them. We are now camped on a very pleasant spot not far from timber. We have camped near the summit of a ridge where we can see a long way on both the roads leading to Miller's mill and to the next camp. Soon after we arrived Horace Whitney passed. I sent word to the President to send me more teams. I told Horlick we could not board him any longer and gave him a line to father asking him to board him until he returns. Have borrowed some meal from Edward Martin to get along. If Keller doesn't come soon we shall have to obtain something to eat somewhere or go short. We have nothing left to eat but some corn, and being short of milk we can not cook it to our advantage. James and I were consulting just at dusk as to the wisdom of one of us starting out to try and meet Keller and Corbitt or see if we could learn something of them. We both felt positive they had lost their horses. While we were talking we saw Keller and Horlick riding up from the first farm. From Keller we learned they had got horses and loads and were coming on the other road and would wait till we came up to meet them if we thought best. He said the guard had all returned and were with the wagons. This was joyful news to us and I felt my heart much relieved.
James started out early to meet the wagons. After breakfast we started on the road and while standing Keller came up and said it was about four and a half miles to where the other road joins the main road. I started ahead on foot and after traveling about three miles came up to the teams where they had waited on the road. When I got up the guard seemed pleased to see me. Captain Allen had bought about thirty-six bushels of meal and 200 lbs. of bacon. They would not receive any pay for it. They have been faithful and diligent and have done much. There is yet $12.00 due them from the meal and they are determined I shall have that too. When my teams came up we put the meal in the wagons and started on. We went about a mile farther to Peter's Bridge where we concluded to camp for the night. We arranged our loading and I concluded to let Brother Allen have the wagon and team in his hands which is church property to send back to Nauvoo for his family. The guard made out a list of provisions which they wished me to leave them which was indeed very little. I gave them four pairs of shoes and probably three bushels of meal which is all the remuneration they would accept for all they had brought. They seemed well satisfied.
This morning I gave certificates of discharge to A. Keller, John Horlick, Orville Allen, M. A. Dodge, Tollman, Starks, Mecham, Bartlet and P. R. Wright. Keller and Horlick started immediately for Nauvoo and Wright and Dodge soon after. I concluded to move on about two miles to where Hutchinson and Duzett were in camp. I started out on foot and most of my family soon after. It soon began to rain and rained till I was wet through. I traveled on about four and a half miles but could see no camp near timber. I stopped to rest at a post put up by Stewart where the Raccoon fork led off. While there Josiah Arnold passed on his way to Miller's. From him I learned that there was a camp ground about a half a mile farther. I went on and waited. Before any of the wagons arrived James came up. Soon after news arrived that Swap had broke his wagon tongue. I sent James to help bring on the loads. We only started with three wagons and left three back with Corbitt and Martin. The teams worked hard all day and at half past nine the last team arrived having taken all day to travel about five miles.
This morning I sent James and Corbitt to go and trade three horses and some harness for cows. About noon I started out with two wagons and left one and about three loads of stuff in care of two of the guard. After we had traveled about three miles I met a messenger from the camp who handed me two letters, one was from Diantha and one from Brother Whitaker concerning a piece of land. We went on about a mile and crossed a creek where we waited to rest our teams. When I read Diantha's letter it gave me painful feelings to hear of her situation. After resting about an hour we went on about four miles farther and camped near Father Baker's camp on a creek. It was night before we got supper over. I found several men going back to Nauvoo for their families.
Wrote an answer to Whitaker's letter and also one to Diantha. We started on about eight o'clock and found the road bad and many bad creeks where the bridges had been washed away. After traveling two miles one of my wagons loaded with corn meal was upset in a hole. But after about an hour's labor we got the loading in. The wagon was not much damaged. We proceeded about three miles farther and met two men with six yoke of oxen which President Young had sent to meet us. This was a great relief to us for we saw that we could not get to camp today because of our teams being so worn down. We rested our teams about an hour and then started on at a good pace. We found several more very bad creeks to pass but we did not have much difficulty. Duzett and myself drove the cows. Edward Martin drove his horses. About sundown we arrived in camp, having traveled about thirteen miles. This place is called Mt. Pisgah and is a very beautiful situation, the prairie rolling and rich, skirted with beautiful groves of timber on the main fork of the Grand river. Soon after we arrived Elder Kimball came to welcome us to camp and then came Elder Richards and family and President Young who all seemed glad to see us in camp.
This morning my horses and one cow and several of the oxen are missing. I went to see Bishop Whitney about getting teams to send back for the loads remaining but could get no satisfaction from him. I went back and unloaded two wagons on the ground and about the same time saw the President who said he would send for them. Elder Kimball sent one wagon and the President sent two. President Young said they intended to take the church property in their wagons and take it on to Council Bluffs but I must go with them and leave James and Corbitt and Egan to bring on the wagons they have, etc. I cannot think they understand my situation in regard to the teams or they would make some definite move about it. They intend to start in a day or two and I tried to fix the wagons in good order but had no chance to get even one fixed. Spent the day fixing up my tent and had to get a new pole. Heber took my other one. Afternoon it commenced gathering for a storm and we had barely time to get the tent up and the things under it before it began to rain and continued till I went to sleep. George Herring and Shumway arrived here last night. I spoke with them today.
The morning dull and foggy, ground wet, etc. Went fishing some. Evening played with Hutchinson and Pitt. All my oxen, horses and the cow were found. I went out this morning hunting for them on foot. Evening raining.
The weather fine, cool, and windy. Talked with Heber some. He says I shall have teams. One of my wagons came in this morning.
Went and borrowed a robe and ornaments from Aaron Farr then rode with Dr. Richards about three miles on the prairie. There were five others and among them President Young. Two tents were brought and we fixed them up and then met and clothed. There were President Young, P. P. Pratt, J. Taylor, Geo. A. Smith, A. Lyman, John Smith, N. K. Whitney, D. Spencer, O. Spencer, C. C. Rich, E. T. Benson, Wm. Huntington and myself. Clothed and having offered up the signs, offered up prayer, Heber C. Kimball being mouth. We then conversed awhile and appeared again, Geo. A. Smith being mouth--A. P. Rockwood and Wm. Kimball were guarding the tent. Prayers were offered that we might be delivered from our enemies and have teams to go on our journey, etc. About two o'clock we returned to camp. Many of the teams were coming in and among the rest, the teams sent back for my loading which all arrived tonight.
Having heard that Egan was near I started out to meet him. The morning was fine but about eleven o'clock it began to thunder. I went about two miles and before I got back without seeing Egan it rained heavily. I was wet through. I called at the meeting while President Young was speaking. It rained nearly all the afternoon. Noal Richards died.
Was wet in the morning and windy all day. The council got me four wagons and seven yoke of oxen to take church property.
Still windy but fair. President Young has again stated I lack some cattle yet. Fixing my wagon, etc. Have about teams enough but lack teamsters.
Fixing my wagons. Concluded to start on. My teams were scattered but we started with what we had. We got over the river at three o'clock, one yoke of cattle still missing. I sent the men hunting for them but they were not found.
Again sent the men hunting cattle. The day was very cold and windy, almost as cold as winter. I spent the day fixing a wagon for Diantha expecting her on in about two weeks. Lucy Walker called in this afternoon and expressed sorrow on account of the treatment of Heber's family toward her. Amos Fielding called on his way to the President's camp. Towards evening it rained and there was one of the most beautiful rainbows I ever saw in my life. We could see its brilliant reflection within a few rods of us. In the evening Douzett came for his cow which had tarried with ours. He concluded to stay over night. My teamsters returned without finding the cattle.
Sent all the men except James Douglas to hunt the cattle. About nine o'clock my adopted son Thomas Corbich returned with them. I then waited till two o'clock for the men to return, three of them being still absent. I have now eleven wagons, sixteen yoke of oxen, six cows, five horses, and six teamsters, besides my brother James, whose names are Conrad Neil, Levi N. Kendall, James Douglas, Milton F. Bartlett, Willard Smith, and A. E. Hinkel, four of the latter are new to me and do not seem to know much about teaming. At two o'clock I concluded to start on and after about an hour's preparation we started. The men took two teams each. I drove the cows on foot. The roads are a great deal better. We traveled about six miles and camped on a hill beyond nice timber. Pitt is here and Brother Taylor's camp. Amos called on his way back to England. He stayed and conversed a while. I will here say that the oxen put in by Brothers Olive and Rich to take church property are very poor and some of them scarcely of any use. We arrived here about half past six o'clock. The day has been cold, fine and fair.
The morning very fine. We started out at eight o'clock; Pitt joined with us. I went on foot to drive the cows. About ten o'clock we had a little rain. After traveling about seven miles we arrived at a piece of timber where the patriarch John Smith was resting. We concluded to rest our teams here and stopped at half past eleven. At one o'clock we started again and soon after had a heavy thunder shower. I was about a mile ahead of the wagons and having no shelter was soon completely drenched with rain. It got very cold while raining. As soon as the wagons came up we stopped till the shower was over which did not last long. We then pursued our journey and at six o'clock camped on the open prairie a long way from timber, having traveled about sixteen miles. After the shower the day was fine. I was very tired and wet and after eating a little went to bed. Vilate Ruth is weaning from the breast today which makes her cry.
Inasmuch as we were not near timber we concluded to travel on till we found some. We started at eight o'clock and traveled till two, being about nine miles, when we came to a little grove of timber and just beyond a bad bottom of prairies. I concluded to pass this and camp on the adjoining ridge. I drove the cows all day on foot. My feet were sore and blistered. The day was very fine. Sometime after we arrived Father John Smith came and camped just below us.
The weather fine. Traveled about ten miles, the roads being very hilly and uneven. We camped on a bottom near timber. I went fishing and had good success. I drove the cows till noon then rode with family.
Weather fine and hot. Went fishing at daybreak with James and had good luck. At nine we went on. I rode again. Afternoon three Indians overtook us and begged some bread. We camped on a bottom beside Coleman and others, having traveled about twelve miles. Two Indians are here and we have learned their camp is only three miles from us. President Young left word to go in companies from here to avoid being plundered by the Indians. We had our cattle tied up and a guard over them through the night.
Went fishing at daybreak and caught thirty-six. Weather hot. We started about nine o'clock and found the roads good but over hills and ravines all the day. At six o'clock we camped in sight of the Pottawattamie Indian village. When about two miles from it they discovered us coming and we soon saw a number of them riding towards us. Some had bells on their horses which frightened our horses and cattle. James and I took the horses and let the others take the oxen the best way they could. Some of the Indians followed our wagons and inquired often for whiskey. We had to pass some timber and a river before we arrived at their village which is situated on a very beautiful ridge skirted by timber and beautiful rolling prairie. Before we arrived at the timber it seemed that the whole village had turned out, men, women, and children, some on horses and many on foot. Their musicians came and played while we passed them. They seemed to escort our wagons and asked if we were Mormons. When we told them we were they seemed highly pleased. It took us some time to cross the bridge over the river and then we were perfectly surrounded by Indians apparently from curiosity and friendship. They watched us cross the bridge and others followed on with us. The boys seemed to learn the words our teamsters used to drive the cattle and would run and in their way help to drive. They manifested every feeling of friendship and nothing unkind or unfriendly transpired. Soon after we passed the bridge we were met by Jas. W. Cummings and the brethren from Shariton Ford with John L. Butler to bring Emmet's company to meet us. The cattle have been with Emmet's company from the time they left Nauvoo. The road leads within about two hundred yards of the Indians and I wanted to go about two miles farther to save the necessity of having a guard but soon after we left the village we had to ford a stream which was deep and bad to cross. I then concluded to camp on the ridge above the ford and in sight of the village, being about a half or three quarters of a mile from them. Many of them followed us, men, women and children and watched all our movements but about dark all departed in peace. They seemed well pleased with their visit. They certainly showed every mark of friendship and kindness imaginable and treated us as brothers. We learned that the chief's daughter was buried today. We have traveled about fifteen miles. From Cummings we learned that Emmet had left his things belonging to the company with him. Part of the company has crossed at St. Louis and are now on the line here. The agent of the U. S. refuses to let them pass. The other part of the company are thirty miles below the bluffs expecting us to cross there.
Many of the Indians again came to the camp with the same friendly feeling. Some squaws came to trade. We started soon after nine, the weather being very hot. We traveled over about five miles of very uneven road. The rest was good. We had to travel till late before we came to water. We camped on a small creek where Coleman and Tanner were camped, having traveled about fourteen miles.
Traveled about three miles, the weather being very hot. We camped on a beautiful ridge where the main body had evidently left but little before, beside a large rapid stream. I concluded to stay here until Monday to rest our teams and give their shoulders a chance to heal, several of which were very sore.
Fixing a wagon, etc. The weather very hot. Evening killed one of our cows. The mosquitoes here began to be very troublesome, there being so many of them and so bloodthirsty.
The weather very hot and the mosquitoes tremendously bad. This morning I weighed bread for each man at the rate of a half a pound a day. They seem very much dissatisfied and growl to each other very much. I weighed for my family of ten as much as I weighed for six teamsters. They were dissatisfied but we had some left. They have hitherto had all they wanted three times a day and above this have eaten up a bag of crackers unknown to me which I had reserved for the mountains. The mosquitoes being so bad, I concluded to go on a little piece. We started at 1:00 p.m. and traveled until four when we arrived at a small clear stream having traveled about six miles. I camped here and in the evening told the men a part of what I thought of their conduct.
The morning cooler but mosquitoes bad. Our horses were missing and we were detained till ten o'clock before we could start. The horses had gone back to where we left yesterday. We traveled till sundown before we came to water, being about twelve miles. We camped near to C. L. Whitney.
Started at 7:30 and traveled about twelve miles when we came in sight of the Missouri river and the main camp about five miles farther. We soon learned that some of the camp were coming back to find water. There being no water where we were, we moved back about two miles to a spring and there camped expecting to stay until we should learn what to do.
This morning Kay and Duzett rode up and said they were anxiously expecting us at the camp and wanted us to go immediately. I went to the camp with them to look out a place while my men yoked up and brought the wagons. When I arrived I saw Heber. He seemed pleased to see me and went with me to look out a place to camp. I fixed a spot between President Young's camp and Bishop Miller's. Heber said the twelve had an invitation to go to the village to the agent's to dinner and they wanted the band to go with them. I went back to meet the wagons which had been detained on account of some of the cattle being missing. As soon as my wagons arrived I got ready and started in Heber s carriage with Heber, Bishop Whitney, and Smithies. Edward Martin, Pitt, Hutchinsoo, Kay and Duzett rode in the other carriage. When we arrived at Mr. Mitchell's, the agent's place, we were introduced to him one by one. We then played and Kay sang until about five o'clock when we returned. This village is situated but a little distance from the river, probably fifty rods. It is composed of twelve or fifteen blocks, houses without glass in the windows, and is the noted place where the Lamanites for years held their council. The inhabitants are composed of Lamanites, half breeds and a few white folks. I had an introduction to Sarrapee an Indian trader. We arrived home just at dusk.
Fixing a wagon all day. Evening went fishing. Spoke to Bishop Whitney about some more teams.
Fixing wagons and preparing to send off some things to trade. Evening went fishing. Went with the band to hold a concert at the village. Many went from the camp. The Indians and half breeds collected $10.10 and gave it to us and the agent Mr. Mitchel gave a dinner to all that came.
At home until evening. At 5:00 met with the brethren of the camp and acted as clerk while they selected men to build the boat.
Fixing my wagons. The day was windy and cold. I was informed yesterday that Diantha is twenty miles back from Mt. Pisgah with her father still farther back. They have sent her chest on to Pisgah and she is with Loren. I partly made up my mind to start in the morning and bring her.
This morning I got my food ready to start after Diantha but Vilate Ruth seemed quite sick and I concluded not to start. We took the teams and went to the village to pick gooseberries but it rained nearly all the time we were gone. I bought a scythe and some other things and tried to trade a watch for a yoke of cattle. Major Mitchel offered me three yoke for the gold watch. We got home about 3:00. I then went and told the President about Mitchel's offer and he told me to sell it. It was so cold and wet and windy we went to bed early and soon after we got to bed, Heber and Dr. Richards came to my wagon with two letters from Diantha, one dated Nauvoo, May 17, 1846, the other Big Prairie, June 18th. She tells that she is sent on by her father and is with Loren and is very anxious that I should bring her or send for her. I made up my mind to start tomorrow. The night was very stormy with strong winds and heavy rains.
The morning wet and cold. I went over to President Young and told him where I was going and what for. He said he would get the cattle for me. I also spoke to Heber and he said: "Go and prosper." At 11:00 I went to council and President Young, Kimball and Taylor concluded also to go to Pisgah after the cannon. I started at two o'clock it then being fair. At five o'clock I passed Father Knowlton's company thirteen miles from camp and at seven passed Laharpe's company and inquired of Brother Burgham and Freeman about Diantha but could not learn much from them. Brother Ezra Bickford was here on his way back to Nauvoo. He said he was tired from riding on horseback and asked if I would let him go with me to Pisgah and use his horse in the wagon. I told him to come on. I soon found it made a difference in the load. We went on about two miles and stopped at dark on the middle of the prairie near no water. After feeding we lay down to rest. We had several heavy showers through the night.
This morning arose at four o'clock and moved our wagon a little to fresh grass to let the horses feed, they being tied to it. It is fair, but cloudy. We started again at 5:30 a.m., traveled till 10:00 then rested till 2:00 and then traveled until dark, making thirty-one miles. We camped just beyond the Indian village in the midst of a severe thunder storm. It rained most of the day and the roads were bad.
Did not start until after seven. Morning fair, roads bad. After traveling about six miles we found Horace Clark and others camped on one side of a small stream and Orson Spencer on the other side. The creek was full of water to the bank and in the deepest place about six feet over the bridge and a part of the bridge washed away. We tarried until 3:00 and then concluded to try to get over. Walter L. Davis and Wm. D. Huntington volunteered to help us over. We unloaded the wagon box for a boat, taking a few of our things over at a time. When we got them all over we swam the horses over, loaded up, and at 5:00 started again and went till near nine having traveled about sixteen miles.
The day was fine and we traveled about thirty-eight miles and camped on the prairie about eight miles from Pisgah. During the day we passed some U. S. officers on their way to see President Young and the council. We afterwards learned that they professed to be going to the authorities of the church by order of the President of the United States to raise five hundred volunteer Mormons to defend Santa Fe, etc.
At daybreak it rained again. We started at four o'clock and arrived at Pisgah at eight. Had some conversation with Father Huntington and C. C. Rich. We fed and at nine o'clock started again. We soon saw Brother Woodruff. He was glad to see me and we conversed together some time. From him I learned that Missouri had sent up a committee to Pisgah to search for forts and cannon, etc. He says the Missourians are terrified and many are moving from the back to the interior settlements. He also stated that we have a friend in the British Parliament and the British had held a private council in relation to the treatment of the U. S. towards us. Britain is making great preparations for war. They have sent ten thousand troops to Canada and a fleet around Cape Horn to Oregon. They are intending to arm the slaves of the south and have their agents in the Indian country trying to bring them in war to fight the U. S. After we left Elder Woodruff we passed on and soon met Sister Durpee and Brother Lott and his company. He said Diantha was back about four miles. Soon after we met Orville Allen and from him learned that Diantha was back at least twelve miles. We continued on and at two o'clock fed. We arrived at Father Chase's between four and five o'clock. Diantha was very glad to see me and burst into tears. My little boy is far beyond all my expectations. He is very fat and well formed and has a noble countenance. They are both well and I feel to thank my heavenly Father for his mercies to them and Father Chase and to his family and may the Lord bless them for it, and oh Lord, bless my family and preserve them forever. Bless my Diantha and my boy and preserve their lives on the earth to bring honor to Thy name and give us a prosperous journey back again is the prayer of thy servant William. Amen. At night we had a heavy thunder storm. It rained very heavily.
The morning is cool and cloudy, the ground very wet. Brother Bickford is gone to Nauvoo. Left Father Chase's company about 10:30 a.m. They kindly furnished us with bread stuffs sufficient to last us to camp. We arrived at Mt. Pisgah and stayed near Father Huntington's.
This morning in council with President Huntington, Rich and Benson until nine o'clock a.m. Took breakfast with Elder Rich and then started on. We passed Brothers Woodruff, and Lott and their companies about twelve miles from Pisgah. After traveling about twenty-six miles we turned onto the big prairie for the night. The weather fine and roads good.
P. P. Pratt passed about six o'clock. We afterwards learned that he was going on express to Pisgah to raise the 500 volunteers to go to Santa Fee. After traveling about seven miles we rested with Brother Weeks and ate breakfast, then went on till two o'clock and stopped to feed. We continued on till dark, having traveled about seventeen miles.
Having lost the horses during the night I went back four miles to hunt them. I met someone and enquired about them, asking if he had not seen them. Went back to camp and ate a little and afterwards found them about a mile west. We started about ten o'clock and at sundown passed the Indian village and the stream at which we previously camped. We camped about two miles west of the Indian village.
Started early and went about four miles to a creek where we ate breakfast. The day very hot but we traveled about twenty-five miles. We met President Young, Heber Kimball, and Dr. Richards going back to raise volunteers. They feel that this is a good prospect for our deliverance and if we do not do it we are downed. We went on and camped near Hiram Clark and took supper with him.
This morning my horses were missing and five from Clark's company were missing. I found them a little west of the camp and started on. Diantha having eaten nothing this morning I tried to buy some bread but could not get it till I got home. I arrived at three o'clock and found my little Vilate sick, the rest all well. I went over to Council at Captain Allen's tent.
At home all day. Conrad has left and gone to Elder Hyde's. The weather is very hot. My traders have got back and brought twenty bushels of corn, but only one of wheat.
Spent the day fixing wagons. Day very hot. Bishop Whitney called to see us. They are getting over the river as fast as possible but it is slow work.
Spent the two previous days fixing wagons and today went down to the river to see about crossing, etc. Took my family with me.
Fixing my wagons, also Saturday unpacked the dry goods wagon and repacked it.
Went to the meeting at Elder Taylor's camp. In the evening President Young, Kimball and Richards returned. They requested me to go to Taylor's to council. I went and tarried till dark, wrote a letter to the Quadrille band to meet tomorrow also wrote orders for all the men in camp to meet.
Went to the general meeting and played with the band and then kept minutes. They got three companies of 43 each and half of a fourth company. All my teamsters have enlisted. I am now destitute of help. Edward Martin is advised to go and leave his family in my charge. I have still four yoke of oxen missing and I do not know where to find them. Last night James was seized with a fit and is quite unwell today, mostly insensible. Vilate Ruth is quite sick and on the whole my situation is rather gloomy. The meeting adjourned at five till tomorrow at eight, after which the company danced till dark.
I went over to meeting this morning and told the President my situation. He consented for me to go back to my camp to see to things. I came back but feel very unwell. Martin's youngest child died at 1:30 p.m.
Went with Edward Martin to bury his child on a high bluff south of the camp. We buried it between two small oak trees, a little east of them, the babe's head to the east. After returning Heber sent word for us to cross the creek to the other bluff where Elder Taylor is camped. We got some of the cattle together and took part of the wagons over and then returned for the remainder. As soon as we got there a message came that the President wished the band to go to the village. We accordingly started but when we got there we found nobody there and after a little trading we returned home.
Hunting my horses to take Diantha to see her father's folks who arrived yesterday. In the afternoon we started out and went about three miles from here. They appeared very glad to see us. We got home again at dark.
Went fishing.
Went to the village to play with the band for the volunteers. They danced till near sundown when we returned home.
In the wagon till evening. Sister Farr came to see us. Diantha and I went home with her in the evening.
In the morning fixing for our concert. Afternoon the band came with their wives and we played and danced till dark. President Young made some appropriate remarks exhorting the saints to prayer, etc.
This morning it rained very heavily. Went to council at Elder Pratt's camp. The council appointed a council of twelve to preside here, viz. Isaac Morley, Geo. W. Harris, James Allred, Thos. Grover, Phineas Richards, Herman Hyde, Wm. Peck, Andrew H. Perkins, Henry W. Miller, Daniel Spencer, J. H. Hales and John Murdock. I wrote a letter informing them of their appointment also instructing them not to let any pass over the river unless they could be in time to go to Grand Island and cut hay, to watch over the church, establish schools for the winter, etc. I spent the remainder of the day at the creek. I asked the President what I should do but could get no answer. I have not been able to get any satisfaction from any of the council as to what I should do and am totally at a loss to know whether to tarry here or go on. My provisions are nearly out and my teamsters all gone and nearly all the cattle strayed away, and no one to hunt them except James and Corbitt and they are sick.
Fixing a wagon for Margaret and re-loading some wagons.
Unpacking church property. Found considerable of it very much damaged with wet. I put it out and dried it well and repacked it. Evening went with Diantha to see her folks.
Regulating the loading, etc.
Bought 357 pounds of flour at $2.50 per hundred and carried it about three hundred yards to my wagons then spent the day fixing wagon covers. Evening went to Brother Farr's. About 11:00 a storm arose and it soon began to rain heavily and a while after blew a perfect hurricane. The thunder was awful and the rain poured in torrents for about a half an hour.
This morning the tent is down, wagons drenched and everything looks gloomy enough. Scarcely a tent in the camp was left standing and many wagon covers torn. A report is circulated that a cow was killed by lightning. Much damage is done to wagons, provisions, etc. The cow was killed about 200 yards west of my wagons. There was a tent struck also but no persons hurt. I went to meeting and heard Benson and Taylor preach. Afternoon at my wagons. Evening Bishop Whitney, President Young and Kimball called. I made out a bill of goods for them to send east by Robert Pierce. They ordered me to go down to the river tomorrow.
Loading wagons, packing, etc., preparing to start. Last night I engaged Pelatiah Brown as a teamster. We started soon after noon. I drove the cows and James, Corbitt and Brown the teams with twelve wagons. We had to leave one cow four yoke of oxen and two horses on the ridge, being missing. We got down about six o'clock. Bishop Whitney passed and said I should not get over the river tomorrow and I suppose we shall have to wait some days. James and Corbitt are both sick and discouraged on account of having so little help and so many cattle, etc., to look after. They have a hard time of it but I can see no prospects of its being better.
James and Corbitt started back to hunt the cattle. I went to the village and received $12.00 of Larpey for the cordage I sold to Allen, $3.50 is yet my due. I then went and bought some flour of Tanner. While we were weighing it a storm arose and it rained and thundered and lightninged throughout the day and nearly all night. I have not seen more rain fall in a long time.
Got the balance of the flour making 889 lbs., most of it at $2.50 and 200 lbs. at $2.00. Afternoon went to the village with Alice, Diantha, and Margaret. There saw President Young and Heber. They have just bought a pony and some cloth, etc., and seem to have money enough but there is none to buy me flour. I yet lack about a ton.
At home all day. Unpacked mother's wagon and found many things wet and damaged.
Attending to wagons, cattle, etc., all day.
This morning I went to the river to see how soon we could cross and learned there was a prospect of our crossing this evening or tomorrow morning. I then went back to my camp and we started with the wagons a few at a time. My brother James is lame in bed. Pitt is lame. Brown is lame and Corbitt nearly spent. About noon we got all the wagons to the river and Corbitt returned to take the cattle to grass. I went to Larpey's and got the balance of the money then went to Mitchel's to try to trade my music box for a cow but did not succeed.
Preparing to cross the river. Pelatiah Brown went swimming all the forenoon and when Corbitt asked him to help with the teams he swore he would not if Jesus Christ would ask him. I told him if he did not feel like helping us he could go somewhere else, I did not want him. He went and I am again left without a teamster. I will here say that Brown will not work only when he has a mind to and during the last week when James and Corbitt and Pitt were all gone he would go to the river swimming instead of attending to the cattle and I may as well be without a teamster as have a man who will go away in a cramp. About noon we crossed three wagons over and kept to work until we had got them all over which took us till dark. We had to crowd our wagons together in the road just above the river on account of its being stopped up by other wagons. We could not get our cattle to grass and they have had none since last night, but having a few bushels of corn we gave them five ears a piece. After supper I went fishing with Wm. F. Cahoon and others until two o'clock but had very poor luck.
Started this morning to get our wagons on the prairie. The road is very narrow and bad, up steep bluffs and very muddy. It took four yoke of oxen to take a very light load. When we had got four of the wagons up eight yoke of Bishop Whitney's cattle came to help us and afterwards nine yoke of President Young's and Kimball's. We got to the prairie about noon and stopped to feed our cattle. I sent on five wagons with the teams sent to help us and after feeding about an hour started with the remainder. I drove the spare cattle and horses. We got the wagons to camp about six o'clock. One of President Young's oxen killed himself when going to drink, being so eager he pitched into the creek and broke his neck. When we got to camp we were all completely tired. My feet were sore and my limbs ached and had to go to bed. We camped on the north end of Heber's company. We have left nine head of cattle over the river yet and there is little prospect of being able to find some of them.
This morning Heber's company have moved on about two days journey and again left me here alone. I loaned C. L. Whitney three yoke of oxen to help him through. They are gone to find a place within thirty miles of here to winter. I spent the day doing little, being so unwell.
Moved down a little nearer water. There spent the day fixing Ruth's wagon. Corbitt has gone over the river to hunt cattle and in the evening returned with one yoke.
Putting covers on Margaret's and mother's wagons, etc. Afternoon writing copy of the returns of companies.
Spent the forenoon writing copy of return of companies of the U. S. army. About noon two of Heber's teamsters came with some cattle to help me to the main camp. I left off writing and went to putting the wagons in order. While fixing a chicken coop I struck my forehead with a hammer which disabled me from work the remainder of the day.
This morning we arose about three o'clock and while some took the cattle to graze the rest got the wagons loaded, etc., ready to start. We got away soon after sunrise. I rode a mule and drove the cows. We traveled about nine miles before we came to any water. Here we took the teams from the wagons to a spring about a quarter of a mile from the road. The cattle seemed tired but one of the teamsters said it was only about three miles farther and should soon be there. We concluded to go on without stopping to feed. But before we had proceeded far some of the cattle gave out, the day being very hot, and before we got to camp several yoke gave up entirely and were left on the road and brought afterwards. One of the cattle died almost as soon as they took him from the wagon, being about a mile from camp. Two or three others were not expected to live. When we arrived Heber wanted us to form on his north line but we could only get half of our wagons into the space left for the whole of them. I then moved over to the south side and formed next to D. Russell. We got our tent up but can have no fire until Monday. The cattle are so tired we will not use them. I feel about sick myself. Heber's camp is formed in a kind of parallelogram, each wagon camped in a perfect line with the others. The square in the center is about twenty-five rods long and fifteen rods wide.
Writing copy of return of companies of U. S. army all day.
Attending to various business about the wagons all day.
Last night I had a severe chill and felt sick all day mostly with high fever. Quite unable to work.
Quite sick, very bad fever all day.
Since Wednesday have scarcely even been out of bed, but kept with raging fever all the time. Twice Heber has rebuked my fever but it has returned. Through fear and persuasion of my family I have taken some pills and medicine given by Dr. Sprague, but seem to grow worse all the time. Today I have been very sick. Towards evening my folks concluded to get me out of the wagon into the tent where they had prepared a bed. Soon after I got into the tent President Young, Dr. Richards, G. A. Smith, Orson Pratt, Lorenzo Young and others called to see me. When they had been in a few moments President Young called O. P. Rockwell into the tent and the feelings we had on seeing him cannot be described. He has been in prison some time but when his trial came on there was no one to accuse him and the judge discharged him. The brethren all laid hands on me and rebuked my disease in the name of the Lord, President Young being mouth. I immediately felt easier and slept well all night being the first sleep I had had of any account for three days and nights.
During the past week I have gained slowly and have been able to walk about some. I, however, feel very weak and broken down.
Reading some and fixing a little at my violin. Feel very little better but have a better appetite.
We had a thunder storm last night. I do not feel so well this morning but took a walk into the woods. I had a very sick day all day.
The morning very cool and cloudy. Let T. Corbitt have a pair of shoes.
Diantha was taken very sick and continued for four or five days.
At night I was seized with fever again and very sick.
Had chill and fever, the chill held me four or five days.
I still continue very weak and troubled with pain in stomach, etc. President Young and Dr. Richards called and brought me a letter from David; also said they had got me employment writing at a dollar a day or 3c on every hundred words copying.
Still quite unwell. President Young brought me $8.00 in money, one half dollar bogus and soon after Dr. Richards sent me some letters to copy which I did.
This evening I copied a letter to Joseph F. Herring and having no one to send it by I took it to council myself. Before I got half way there my knees failed me and it was with great difficulty I got there and home again. When I got back to Pitt's shanty my spirit failed me for I was not aware of my weakness.
Since Tuesday I have scarcely been out of bed, but today I feel somewhat better again.
A little better. I have been told that President Young has virtually cursed all who have gone to Missouri or those who shall go hereafter.
This evening about ten o'clock all the men of the camp were ordered up armed to meet in this square forthwith. I got up and after a very little while quite a company of the brethren got together. President Hales informed them that the President had received a letter from Mr. Sarpey informing him that two gentlemen from Missouri had informed him confidentially that the Missourians had got out writs for the twelve and others and were coming with a large force on the west side of the river to attack the camp by surprise, etc. He advised the brethren to have their arms clean and their ammunition ready at a moment's warning, to pray with their families, keep dogs tied up at nights, etc., etc. The company was then dismissed except a guard for the camp.
This morning the brethren were ordered to meet at the springs below here at nine o'clock. At the sound of the drum the brethren met and here organized into four battalions, one of artillery, and three of infantry. There were about three hundred brethren present. The President then stated that he had received a letter from Sarpey informing him that two gentlemen, confidentially, from Missouri had informed him that the Missourians were collecting with the sheriff of Missouri, their head designing to attack the saints, that they had writs, etc., for the twelve and others. He had ordered out the brethren that they might be ready in case of necessity and advised them to organize and be prepared. Markham was elected Colonel over the battalions. Hosea Stout, Lieutenant Colonel over the battalions and over the first battalions and over the first battalions of infantry. John Scott was elected 1st major and major over the artillery. Henry Herriman 2nd major to take command of the 2nd battalion of infantry and John S. Gleason 3rd major over the 3rd battalion of infantry. After organizing the President addressed the companies and then dismissed them. It was advised to quit leaving and move the encampment to the fort on the river. A number of teams moved this afternoon.
This morning President Young and many others have moved down to the river. Heber told me to wait till the lots were selected and he would let me know when to move. My health is improving.
Very cold all day. I did not feel so well. I have been told that Daniel H. Wells and William Cutler have arrived in camp and brought a report that there has been a battle fought in Nauvoo and some of the brethren killed.
I learned today that the mob had made it known that they were coming to drive out the "Mormons." The Governor sent an officer to raise volunteers to disperse the mob, but the mob learning this they came sooner than they had calculated. The brethren being apprised of the intentions of the mob prepared to meet them as well as their circumstances would permit. Some of the new citizens also made preparations to join the brethren. They made five cannon shot of an old steam boat shaft. They also filled some barrels with powder, old iron, etc., which were buried in the pass to the city which could be fired by a slow match but this was of no avail as some traitors informed the mob of it, hence they did not come into the settled part of the city. On Saturday the 12th inst., the mob made their appearance being about twelve hundred in number. The brethren and some of the new citizens in the whole about one hundred and sixty went to give them battle, but many of the new citizens and some of the brethren when they saw the numbers of the mob fled and left about one hundred, nearly all brethren, to fight the enemy. The mob had pieces of cannon. They met near Boscow's store on Winchester street. The cannon of the mob were two blocks from the brethren and the other part of rifle men one block from them. The mob fired a number of times into Barlow's old barn expecting many of the brethren were concealed there but in this they were disappointed, the brethren chiefly lying down on the ground behind some shelter and fired in that position. They fought one hour and twenty minutes when the mob offered terms of compromise which were these, that all the "Mormons" should leave the city within five days leaving ten families to finish the unsettled business. The brethren consented to this inasmuch as they had been well informed that 1,500 more were coming to join the mob and they had nothing to expect from the authorities of the state. Lyman Johnson, one of the twelve, headed a party of the mob from Keokuk, Iowa territory. Three of the brethren were killed, viz. William Anderson, his son, and Norris, a blacksmith. Three others wounded. The mob would not own to any of their party being killed but one person saw them put sixteen men into one wagon and handled them more like dead persons than wounded. The ground where they stood was pretty much covered with blood, so that there is no doubt they had many slain or wounded. They had 150 baggage wagons. Esquire Wells took command of the brethren and rode to and fro during the whole battle without receiving injury, although the balls whistled by him on every side. Amos Davis fought bravely. While running across a plowed field he stumbled and fell on his left arm which formed a triangle with his head. As he fell a cannon ball passed through the angle of his arm between that and his head. Hiram Kimball received a slight wound with a musket ball on the forehead. The mob fired sixty-two shots with the cannon and ten rounds with the muskets making 12,000 musket balls only killing three and wounding three. The brethren did not fire so much in proportion but did much more execution. Truly, the Lord fights the battles of his saints. The cannon of the brethren was not of much service, they would not carry more than a quarter of a mile, whereas those of the mob would hold well a half a mile. They shot nine balls through a small smith shop, one through Wells' barn and one at his house but the ball struck the ground in front of his house and glanced through the well curb. The mayor of Quincy watched the battle from the tower of the temple and owned that history never afforded a parallel. The brethren then began to get their families and effects over the river where they remain in a suffering and destitute condition until wagons and means are sent from the saints to their relief. On the Thursday following, the mob, 1,200 strong, entered the city. 'Tis said from good authority that such is the distress and sufferings of the saints as actually to draw tears from this mob.
Russell told me that he had selected three lots for us and we could go as soon as we had a mind to. He saw Heber on the subject. I made up my mind to start on Monday for Winter Quarters.
This morning Brother Smithies came with six yoke of Heber's cattle and said we must be ready to start in five minutes while he went to water his cattle and although we had everything unprepared we were ready before he got back. I felt well enough to drive a team. We took six wagons down and camped on the same block with Heber in Cape Disappointment. James and Pitt went back to wait for Corbitt who was herding cows and in the evening returned with three more wagons.
Got the balance of the wagons and poles, etc., down. I copied three letters for Dr. Richards.
Corbitt has started down into the country to fetch potatoes, etc.
During the last month several times I have been very sick and then again would be somewhat better. I still continue to be feeble and unable to work. I have one house nearly finished and shall in a few days occupy it. Thomas Corbitt has been down the river to fetch a load of corn on shares but President Young told me to take the whole of it for which I feel very grateful. I have sent my cattle to the rushes to be wintered, having but eight tons of hay although James and Corbitt worked from twenty-six to thirty days but Russell and Rolfe have contrived to work it into their hands, taking as Rolfe said, half of Corbitt's hay for herding my cattle while he was in the hay field. I think this is as wrong a piece of business as has been played on me through the journey.
Winter Quarters
Morning at the store. At 2:00 p.m. went with Diantha to her father's and partook of a roast turkey for dinner. At 4:00 met the band at the Basket Shop and played about an hour and a half. The basket makers made each of us a present of a new basket and showed their gratitude various ways. At 6:00 met with the band at Father Kimball's and played for a party till after one o'clock. President Young and Kimball danced considerable and all seemed to feel well.
At the store regulating the books and making out Whitney and Woolley's account current, etc. About 2:00 p.m. Sarah came and said her mother wanted me. Moroni had fallen into the fire and burned himself very badly. I went home and found as she said. All over the left side of his head burned, his face very badly burned, large blisters round his left eye. I immediately applied some consecrated oil and ordered them to keep it on all the time. I then returned to the store. Evening President Young came and took his hardware bill, domestic drilling, etc. About 8:00 p.m. I went home.
Moroni's face seems much better, all except around his left eye which looks very bad. I was at the store all day working at Whitney's account current which seems very bad to regulate. Evening Heber, his wife Ellen, Sarah Ann and Sister Whitney came in to trade and remained till about ten o'clock.
At the store all day. Evening waiting on Orson Pratt and Amasa Lyman. Paid my tax today, $2.17½ to I. C. Wright.
At the store all day. Evening the band met at my house.
At the store all day, the weather extremely cold.
At the store, the weather still colder than yesterday. Evening went to Sister Buel's and took supper of turkey. Afterwards went to Leonard's and played for them with Hutchinson and Smithies till 12:00.
At the store again, the weather still colder. Evening the band met at my house and played some.
At the store all day. Quite unwell till 9:00 p.m.
At home mostly all day. About 2:00 p.m. went to Hutchinson's to dinner.
At the store all day, the weather more moderate. Margaret and her boy doing well. Last night Pitt returned from Missouri.
This morning Ruth began to feel unwell. I went to the store and continued settlements as usual. Brothers Lee and Russell returned from Missouri, having obtained change for the checks. About 4:00 p.m. President Young and J. D. Lee came to Bishop Whitney's and I received in gold $496.17, and in silver $1,080.52 out of three checks which Lee took value $2,447.32, the balance to be accounted for hereafter. Soon as I was through receiving the money, I was informed that my folks had sent for me and I went home soon after, found that Ruth had brought forth a son twenty minutes after 5:00 p.m. She had a pretty hard time, but feels comfortable as can be expected. The boy is named Newel Horace. Evening I met with the band at Johnson's and played till about 11:00 p.m. The house was very much crowded and not much room to dance, but they kept it up freely.
This morning Ruth feels more comfortable. At the store all day waiting for Lee and Russel to settle. Evening Russel came and I received from him in gold $177.50, and in silver $363.19. He also accounted for $150.00 paid to Heber and $30.00 to Daniel Russel out of a check value $732.53 leaving him deficit $11.84. Spent the evening at home.
At the store paying out a pair of the money, expecting before I made final payments to settle with Lee and Egan.
Spent an hour with Lee and Egan at my house but did not accomplish much towards a settlement. Afterwards at the store paying out money, settling, etc., filled bills for Pisgah & Garden Grove.
At the store again paying, settling, etc., all day. The weather very cold. My folks doing well.
At home mostly all day.
At the store all day, mostly paying money to the soldiers' wives.
At the store paying money, etc.
At the store paying money, etc.
At the store paying money, etc.
At the store paying money, etc. Evening went with Hutchinson to Packer's party and played for the party in the smoke till near midnight.
At the store all day paying money, etc. Evening met with Pitt and Hutchinson at the council house.
Headache all day having taken cold last evening. Mostly at home. A few hours at the store over the river and back. Night played with Pitt awhile.
At the store, very busy paying money, etc. Snowed some and is cold. Whitney let me have some goods. Evening walked alone.
At the store till 2:00 p.m. Afterward went with the Quadrille Band to the Council House agreeably to previous notice and played for a party of men (70's) and their families who had assisted in building the house. They danced till about midnight. We had plenty to eat and drink through the interview and a very pleasant party.
At the store again till noon. At 2:00 p.m. at the Council House with the Quadrille Band and played for another company of those who had assisted in building the house. We had plenty of refreshments and a very sociable party as on yesterday. Broke up again about midnight.
At the store till noon, and then at the Council House with the Quadrille Band playing for the third party of those who had assisted in building the house, together with the poor basket makers.
At home and the store. Felt quite unwell.
At the store all day settling and paying money to soldiers' wives.
At home all day. Dined with Diantha, Ruth, Margaret and mother Farr on a turkey.
At the store all day settling accounts, paying money, etc.
At the store till noon. Afterwards at the Council House with the Quadrille Band playing for Brigham's family generally.
At the store till noon. Afterwards at the Council House with the Quadrille Band to play for a family meeting of the Young family. President Brigham Young was quite sick and seemed very low spirited. After the meeting had been opened by prayer, the President called on his brothers to stand up by him in the center of the room which they did according to age. John Young took his place at the head, then Phineas, Joseph, Brigham and Lorenzo. The President then called on Heber to take his place in the line inasmuch as he had been recognized about fifteen years as a member of the Young family. He took his place between Joseph and Brigham. The President then said this was the first time that father Young's boys had been together in the same capacity for a number of years, etc. After a few remarks the remainder of the evening was spent by partaking of a good supper and cheerful dancing till about two in the morning, when the party broke up in the best of spirits and good feeling.
At the store mostly, evening at home.
At the store till noon, then with the Quadrille Band to play for the Silver Greys till midnight.
At the store all day.
At home.
At the store all day.
At the store till 10:00 a.m. Then went with the Quadrille Band in Eldridge's carriage to play round the city, but the weather was so cold we could not play much. At 2:00 p.m., met with--
[No pages from here until April.]
...into camp from England which will probably detain the camp a few days.
Went with the Quadrille Band over the River as the twelve do not start for the Horn today. We played in the boat as we crossed, but in returning the wind was high, the boat heavily loaded with cattle and dangerous crossing.
At home nearly all day.
At home and Farr's. I told Winslow Farr concerning Hosea Stout's threats to take my life after the Twelve are gone, etc. He called at night on his return from the Council and told me to be on my guard.
At home all day. Thomas and James had planted a number of garden seeds on Saturday. Today, they are cutting wood and preparing to go to the farm tomorrow. I have no hay, neither can I get any for my cows and horses.
At home most of the day. Thomas and James started for the farm. Evening went to the store and told Brigham and Heber about Hosea Stout's calculations, etc.
This morning severely pained with rheumatism in my face. At 11:00 a.m. Brigham and Dr. Richards came. Brigham told me to rise up and start with the pioneers in half an hour's notice. I delivered to him the records of the K. of G. and set my folks to work to get my clothes together to start with the pioneers. At two o'clock I left my family and started in Heber's carriage with Heber and Wm. Kimball and Ellen Sanders. Bishop Whitney and Lyman went out with us in another wagon. We went about 19 miles and camped on the prairie. After supper Heber prayed and we retired to rest.
After eating and prayers by Bishop Whitney, started at half past seven and got to the Elk Horn at 11:30. We were all across at 12:00 and there we overtook Brigham, G. A. Smith, E. T. Benson and Amasa Lyman. We arrived at the pioneers' Camp about 3:00 p.m. This camp is about twelve miles from the Elk Horn and about 47 from Winter Quarters. I spent the evening with Aaron Farr, Horace Whitney and Jackson Redding.
This day is gloomy, windy and cold. About 8:00 a.m. the camp was called together, and organized two captains of 100's viz. Stephen Markham and A. P. Rockwood were appointed, also five captains of 50's and 14 captains of 10's. There are 143 men and boys on the list of the pioneer company, three women and Lorenzo Young's two children. There are 73 wagons. C. P. Rockwell has gone back to camp with J. C. Little. Bishop Whitney, Lyman, Wm. Kimball and J. B. Noble returned from here to Winter Quarters. The following is a list of all the names of this pioneer company. To wit:
Wilford Woodruff, John S. Fowler, Jacob Burnham, Orson Pratt, Joseph Egbert, John N. Freeman, Marcus B. Thorpe, George A. Smith, George Wardle, Thomas Grover, Ezra T. Benson, Barnabas L. Adams, Roswell Stevens, Amasa Lyman, Sterling Driggs, Albert Carrington, Thomas Bullock, George Brown, Willard Richards, Jesse C. Little, Phineas H. Young, John Y. Greene, Thomas Tanner, Brigham Young, Addison Everett, Truman O. Angel, Lorenzo Young and wife, Bryant Stringham, Albert P. Rockwood, Joseph L. Schofield, Luke Johnson, John Holman, Edmund Elsworth, Alvarnus Hanks, George R. Grant, Millen Atwood, Samuel Fox, Tunis Rappleyee, Harvey Pierce, William Dykes, Jacob Weiler, Stephen H. Goddard, Tarlton Lewis, Henry G. Sherwood, Zebedee Coltrin, Sylvester H. Earl, John Dixon, Samuel H. Marble, George Scholes, William Henrie, William A. Empey, Charles Shumway, Thomas Woolsey, Chancy Loveland, Erastus Snow, Andrew Shumway, James Craig, William Wordsworth, William Vance, Simeon Howd, Seeley Owen, James Case, Artemas Johnson, William A. Smoot, Franklin B. Dewey, William Carter, Franklin G. Losee, Burr Frost, Datus Ensign, Franklin B. Stewart, Monroe Frink, Eric Glines, Ozro Eastman, Seth Taft, Horace Thornton, Stephen Kelsey, John S. Eldredge, Charles D. Barnum, Alma M. Williams, Rufus Allen, Robert T. Thomas, James W. Stuart, Elijah Newman, Levi N. Kendall, Francis Boggs, David Grant, Heber C. Kimball, Howard Egan, William A. King, Thomas Cloward, Hosea Cushing, Robert Byard, George Billings, Edson Whipple, Philo Johnson, William Clayton, Appleton M. Harmon, Carlos Murray, Horace K. Whitney, Orson K. Whitney, Orrin P. Rockwell, Nathaniel Thomas Brown, R. Jackson Redding, John Pack, Francis M. Pomroy, Aaron Farr, Nathaniel Fairbanks, John S. Higbee, John Wheeler, Solomon Chamberlain, Conrad Kleinman, Joseph Rooker, Perry Fitzgerald, John H. Tippets, James Davenport, Henson Walker, Benjamin Rolfe, Norton Jacobs, Charles A. Harper, George Woodard, Stephen Markham, Lewis Barney, George Mills, Andrew Gibbons, Joseph Hancock, John W. Norton, Shadrach Roundy, Hans C. Hanson, Levi Jackman, Lyman Curtis, John Brown, Mathew Ivory, David Powell, (Hark Lay, Oscar Crosby, blacks) Joseph Mathews, Gilbroid Summe, John Gleason, Charles Burke, Alexander P. Chessley, Rodney Badger, Norman Taylor, (Green Flake, black) Ellis Eames.
There were 72 wagons, 93 horses, 52 mules, 66 oxen, 19 cows, and 17 dogs, and chickens.
The names of the females in this camp are: Harriet Page Young, Clarissa Decker, and Ellen Sanders. The names of the children are Isaac Perry Decker Young and Sabisky L. Young, making a total of 148 souls who have started to go west of the mountains as pioneers to find a home where the saints can live in peace and enjoy the fruits of their labors, and where we shall not be under the dominion of gentile governments, subject to the wrath of mobs and where the standards of peace can be raised, the Ensign to nations reared and the kingdom of God flourish until truth shall prevail, and the saints enjoy the fulness of the gospel.
The following are the names of the captains of 50's as appointed at this organization, viz. Addison Everett, Tarlton Lewis, James Case, John Pack and Shadrack Roundy. The captains of 10's are as follows:
Wilford Woodruff, Ezra T. Benson, Phineas H. Young, Luke Johnson, Stephen H. Goddard, Charles Shumway, James Case, Seth Taft, Howard Egan, Appleton M. Harmon, John S. Higbee, Norton Jacobs, John Brown, Joseph Mathews. For the names of the guard and the gun division see under date of April 30th.
Stephen Markham was appointed the Captain of the Guard and ordered to select out of the camp, fifty men for guard, such as he had confidence in who are to be considered as a standing guard, to attend to the wagons each night, twelve of them to stand at a time, and to have two sets each night, that is, 12 each watch to stand half the night. In cases where the horses and cattle are tied some distance from the wagons at night, an extra guard is to be selected from the balance of the company or camp, the standing guard not being permitted to leave the immediate neighborhood of the wagons. After the organization was over, I wrote a letter to Diantha, and put it into the hands of Bishop Whitney, together with the one I received yesterday from father and I. McEwan, also the one from Ellen to James. Up to 12:00 a.m. I had no place to put my trunk and clothing, and did not know what to do with them. However, soon after Heber told me to put them in Appleton M. Harmon's wagon, which was done. At 2:00 p m. the camp started out to proceed on the journey. I bid farewell to to Bishop Whitney and his brother Lyman and son Joshua, who all returned from this place, also Wm. H. Kimball and Joseph B. Noble. We traveled about three miles and encamped in a line about six hundred yards from timber, where there is plenty of cottonwood and some rushes. This night I slept with Philo Johnson, but having only one quilt, and the night severely cold, I suffered much, and took a very bad cold. The country in the neighborhood of the Elk Horn is one of the most beautiful I ever saw. The bluffs on the east are nicely rolling and beautifully lined with timber, and some very nice cedar groves. From these bluffs a little above the ferry you can see the meanderings of the Platte River, and the beautiful level bottom on the north of it, about fifteen miles wide for many miles up the river. The Horn is a beautiful river about 150 feet wide and about four feet deep.
This morning the weather is severely cold, with a strong wind from the north and northwest. We started out at nine o'clock and traveled till near 12:00 the distance being about seven miles. We camped close by a cottonwood grove, and the brethren fell hundreds of them to feed their teams and save corn. There is a small lake close by but the water is not good and the brethren go to the river about a half a mile. At 5:00 p.m. the camps were called together and organized in military order as follows:
Brigham Young, Lieutenant General.
Stephen Markham, Colonel.
John Pack and Shadrack Roundy, Majors.
The captains of 10's to be captains of 10's in this order, except John Pack, who being appointed major, Appleton M. Harmon was appointed captain in his stead.
Thomas Bullock, clerk of the camp. Thomas Tanner captain of the cannon with the privilege of choosing eight men to manage it in case of necessity. The President then said: "After we start from here, every man must keep his loaded gun in his hand, or in the wagon where he can put his hand on it at a moment's warning. If they are cap locks, take off the cap and put on a little leather to keep wet and etc. out. If flint locks, take out the priming and fill the pan with twine or cotton," etc.
The wagons must keep together when traveling, and not separate as they have previously done, and every man to walk beside his own wagon, and not leave it only by permission. A while before evening one of the trader's wagons came from the Pawnee village, loaded with furs and peltry, and camped about one quarter of a mile below us. At night Eames and Hanson played some on their violins. All peace and quietness. At night I slept with Egan in Heber's wagon, Heber being gone to sleep with President Young.
This morning I wrote a letter for Heber to his wife Vilate, which was sent by Brother Ellis Eames who has concluded to go back on account of poor health, spitting blood, etc. He started back with the trader's wagon about eight o'clock a.m. The wind this morning east and southeast and very cold, with a slight shower of snow. At 10:00 a.m. seven more traders' wagons came in and stopped about one quarter of a mile below us, soon after six mules loaded with robes and furs. These traders say they have come from the Pawnee village in two days. Brother Roundy got some Buffalo meat from them and gave me a little, which I thought tasted very good. I commenced writing Heber's journal and wrote considerable. He wants me to write his journal all the journey. I also wrote considerable in this book. Afternoon the weather more moderate and pleasant, the wind has changed near south and the sun shines. I walked with Horace Whitney to the river which is about a half a mile. At 4:30 p.m. father James Case was cutting a cottonwood tree to brouse his horses, and just as it fell the wind struck it and threw it directly contrary to the direction he intended it to fall. The consequence was, one of the limbs struck an ox on the neck and knocked him down. His right eye was knocked down in the socket out of sight. The ox doesn't seem seriously hurt otherwise. About 10 minutes after it was done, the eye turned back to its place, and the ox seems to have sustained little injury. At 5:00 p.m., the officers of the camp met with President Young, and he told the order for traveling and camping hereafter, which was communicated to the companies by the captains of 10's as follows:
At 5:00 in the morning the bugle is to be sounded as a signal for every man to arise and attend prayers before he leaves his wagon. Then cooking, eating, feeding teams, etc., till seven o'clock, at which time the camp is to move at the sound of the bugle. Each teamster to keep beside his team, with his loaded gun in his hands or in his wagon where he can get it in a moment. The extra men, each to walk opposite his wagon with his loaded gun on his shoulder, and no man to be permitted to leave his wagon unless he obtains permission from his officer. In case of an attack from Indians or hostile appearances, the wagons to travel in double file. The order of encampment to be in a circle with the mouth of the wagon to the outside, and the horses and stock tied inside the circle. At 8:30 p.m. the bugle to be sounded again at which time all to have prayers in their wagons and to retire to rest by nine o'clock. Tonight I went to bed about seven-thirty o'clock suffering severely with pain in my head and face. I slept with Philo Johnson.
At 5:00 a.m., at the sound of the bugle I arose, my face still paining me very badly. After eating breakfast, I started out on foot, before the wagons started, with my rifle on my shoulder. At 7:15 the wagons began to move and at 7:30 were all formed in double file and proceeded on. After traveling about eight miles we arrived at a number of small lakes, where were many ducks. A number of the brethren shot at them and killed several. At 1:15 p.m. we arrived at a bend in the river where a small stream runs around an island.
We stayed here to feed awhile, having traveled about fifteen miles mostly a western course with the wind south. The roads very good and the country very level on these flat bottoms of the Platte river which bottoms appear to be from ten to fifteen miles wide. Soon after the camp was formed, O. P. Rockwell, Jackson Redding, and J. C. Little came in from Winter Quarters. They arrived at 2:10. They have found Dr. Richard's mare which was lost east of the Elk Horn and brought her to camp. They brought me a line from Diantha and one from Ruth and Margaret. In the last was a very gentle piece of information which has caused me to reflect much, and proves to me that Ruth and Margaret's virtue and integrity have for the last year been far superior to mine. In my letter to them I requested them to attend to family prayer in my absence, a thing which I have neglected since leaving Nauvoo. They informed me that they had done that when I was at home but unknown to me, and they had then, and still continue to bear me up before their Heavenly Father. Oh, what integrity, what faithfulness. I feel unworthy to possess two such treasures, but still feel to try to reward them for it, and may my Father in heaven bless them, and all my family and let his angels guard them, and me during my absence that we may all be permitted to meet again and enjoy each other's society in this world for many years to come, and eternal in the world to come. O! Lord, grant this prayer of thine unworthy servant, and fill my family with peace and union, and open a way that they may have the necessaries and comforts of life, and Thy name shall have the praise, even so, amen.
I received by Porter, some few fish hooks and lines, a ball of fish line and three pencils, but no small hooks nor knives or wafers. At twenty minutes after 3:00 p.m. the wagons began to move again, in the same order as this morning and traveled until 6:00 p.m. when we arrived at a very pretty open view of the Platte river, and the encampment was formed in a semi-circle on its banks, having traveled since noon, about five miles, and in the whole day 20 miles, over the same kind of dry, level, sandy bottom. The river here appears to be about a mile wide but very shoal. There is not much timber where we are camped, and the water is pretty muddy. I walked some this afternoon in company with Orson Pratt and suggested to him the idea of fixing a set of wooden cog wheels to the hub of a wagon wheel, in such order as to tell the exact number of miles we travel each day. He seemed to agree with me that it could be easily done at a trifling expense. After the encampment was formed, I went to Brother Luke Johnson and asked him to draw my tooth which has pained me so much for a long time. While I was speaking to him Stephen Markham came up, and wanted him to take his team and the Revenue Cutter the name by which the leather boat is called back about two miles, as they designed to seine in one of the lakes. Brother Luke Johnson drives the team which draws the boat and rides in the boat as in a wagon. I concluded I would go and watch them fish and started out on foot. I overtook Markham and John S. Higbee and in our conversation I mentioned to Brother John S. Higbee the same idea I had advanced to Orson Pratt, and he also seemed to coincide fully. After arriving at the lake they launched the boat and made three hauls. They only caught a snapping turtle, four small turtles, one duck, two small cat fish, and two creek suckers. They then concluded to return and I started on foot again with two rifles to carry. I got back to camp before they overtook me and being perfectly tired and very footsore, went to bed, but had no rest on account of the severe pain in my head and face.
Arose at 5:30, my head and face very bad indeed. I ate but little breakfast, although we had a couple of ducks and a snipe. We started out at 7:30, the morning pleasant except a strong west wind. At 9:15 arrived at Shell creek, which is about six or eight feet wide, and a poor bridge over it, but all the wagons got well over. This is about five miles from where we camped last night. We then passed through a small grove of timber, and entered again upon the wide, open prairie bottom. At 11:30 we stopped beside a small slough or lake to feed and eat, etc., being five miles from Shell creek. While stopping here, three deer passed about half a mile west of the wagons. O. P. Rockwell and Thomas Brown chased them on horses four or five miles, but did not succeed in taking any of them. The wind has fallen considerably and it is very warm and dusty. At 1:00 p.m. started again, the horse teams taking the lead, traveled about ten miles farther and encamped near a cotton wood grove on the banks of the river. The encampment was formed about half past five. Tanner's bellows and anvil were set up and a number of tires set before dark.
John S. Higbee, Luke Johnson, S. Markham, and some others, started ahead of the camp about noon, and went about two miles farther than this place to a lake with the boat and seine. They took over 200 very nice fish, and arrived with them about the time the camp was formed. The fish were distributed around the camp according to the number of persons in each wagon, generally two to a wagon, and the brethren enjoyed a good supper on fish. I went to the river and washed my feet which were very dusty and sore. I also washed my socks as well as I could in cold water without soap. After Brother Luke Johnson had got through distributing fish, I went and asked him to draw my tooth. He willingly agreed and getting his instruments, I sat down in a chair, he lanced the gum, then took his nippers and jerked it out. The whole operation did not take more than one minute. He only got half the original tooth, the balance being left in the jaw. After this my head and face pained me much more than before. I ate but little supper and then lay down, but could not sleep for pain till near morning. The evening was very calm and pleasant.
Arose at 5:00, my face easier, but swollen and my gums raw. Took breakfast on fish and coffee, but ate no bread, it being very dry and hard. I could not bear to put it in my mouth. At seven started on foot; the ox teams being gone ahead. Some appearances of rain, and a slight shower fell. Wind northeast and pretty cool. At ten minutes to nine an Indian rode up to the first wagon and appeared very friendly. Soon after six or eight others came running on foot. They came from the timber about a mile to the left. At 10:00 we arrived at a fork in the road, the one on the left leading to the new Pawnee village, and the one to the right leaving the village some distance to the south. A consultation was held by President Young with father Case relative to the roads crossing the river, etc., when it was concluded to take the right hand road. We proceeded accordingly and at 12:00 came in sight of the new Pawnee village, in an open spot on the south bank of the Loop Fork, between two bodies of timber. The village appeared to be about three quarters of a mile south of the road we were on. At 12:30 we were opposite the village, and could then see distinctly upwards of 100 lodges set pretty close together, and appeared to be ranged in several lines, and set in good order. We proceeded until we arrived at a long narrow lake by the side of the timber and near to the river. At 1:00 p.m. the encampment was formed on the bank of the lake and a guard instantly placed at the passes, as many of the Indians had followed us, although they had to wade the river, but it is very shoal. One of the Indians presented several certificates from persons who had previously traveled through their village, all certifying that the Grand Chief of the Pawnees was friendly disposed, and they had made him presents of a little powder, lead, salt, etc. Heber gave them a little tobacco, and a little salt. President Young gave to the chief, some powder, lead, salt and a number of the brethren gave a little flour each. The old chief, however, did not seem to think the presents sufficient, and said he did not like us to go west through their country, he was afraid we should kill their buffalo and drive them off. Brother Shumway told him we did not like buffalo, but this does not appear to give him much satisfaction. However, there was no appearance of hostility. In fact, all that came to camp seemed highly pleased to shake hands with our brethren and would run from one side to another so as not to miss one. A number of the squaws were on the opposite side of the lake with mattocks digging roots. Brother Shumway says there are about twelve thousand of the Pawnees in this neighborhood, and it is reported that there are five thousand warriors. We did not see many of them. Larpy is at their village trading, and it is uncertain whether he will endeavor to use an influence for us or against us. We have no fear, however, because their only object appears to be plunder, and it is the calculation to be well prepared by night and day. During the resting hour I spent the time writing in my journal. At 2:15 p.m. the ox teams started out again and the horse teams soon after. The weather had been calm and pleasant for a few hours, but about 2:00 or a little before, some heavy clouds began to gather, and thunder was heard at a distance. About 2:30 the rain began to descend heavily, accompanied by heavy peals of thunder and vivid lightning which continued till about 4:00. A strong north wind blew up, the rain and thunder ceased and the weather grew very cold. We traveled till 5:30 and the encampment was formed on the Loop Fork of the Platte river. After the encampment was formed and teams turned out, the brethren were all called together and some remarks made by President Young, advising them to have a strong guard round the camps tonight. He called for volunteers to stand guard and about 100 volunteered amongst whom were all the twelve except Dr. Richards. This guard was divided into two companies of fifty each, one company to stand the first half the night, and the remainder the last half. Those of the twelve who stood took the first watch till 1:00. Brigham and Heber both stood on guard. Out of the companies a party were stationed as a picket guard some distance from the camp, the balance stood near the camp. The night was very cold, with a strong wind from the northeast, and in the middle of the night, it rained considerable. Our course this morning was about west. This afternoon, northwest. We are now within three miles from the bluffs on the north. We have traveled today about twenty miles, the roads being good and very level. The grass here is short but looks good. The buffalo grass is very short and curly like the hair on a buffalo robe. The spring grass doesn't seem to be as early here as at the Elk Horn, and the last year's growth not being burnt off, will be rather a disadvantage to the spring companies. I have noticed all the way on this bottom from the Elk Horn, that the ground is full of wild onions which appear far richer and larger than any wild onions I ever saw. I have no idea that corn would grow here for the land is very dry and loose and sandy, and appears poor. The country is beautiful and pleasing to the eye of the traveler, although you can only see one kind of scenery for several days.
Arose soon after 5:00 a.m., my face very painful again caused by the cold. There has been no trouble from the Indians and all is peace and safe. The cannon was prepared for action, and stood all night just outside the wagons. There was considerable joking this morning on account of two of the picket guard having their guns stolen and Colonel Markham having his hat stolen. The owners were found asleep while on guard and those who found them so, took their guns to be a warning to them, but it is difficult for men to keep awake night after night after traveling 20 miles in the day, taking care of teams, cooking, etc. At 7:30 the camp proceeded again. I went ahead on foot. About one quarter of a mile from where we camped is one of the prettiest beds of nettle I have seen for some time. Our road this morning lay beside pretty heavy timber, and about a westerly course. After traveling two miles, crossed Looking Glass creek, a small stream about a rod wide, but easily forded. I still went ahead on foot and at 9:45 sat down on an Indian grave, on top of a mound from whence is a splendid view of the surrounding country for many miles. From southeast to southwest you can see the course of the Loop Fork for a number of miles. Northwest a level prairie about four miles and then a range of timber. The bluffs on the north about seven miles distant, and on the east a level prairie for about twenty miles. At this place there is a range of what appears to be mounds about a quarter of a mile long, running from northeast to southwest. At 12:15 we arrived on the east bank of Beaver River, having traveled about ten miles. This stream is about twenty to twenty-five feet wide; swift, clear water and pleasant tasting. The banks are tolerably well lined with timber. Here we stopped to feed. Some of the brethren went to fix the fording place a little, the banks are steep on each side and the water a little over two feet deep. At 2:00 p.m. started again, the ox teams first. When passing the river a number of the brethren stood on the west bank with a long rope which was hooked to the wagon tongue and they assisted the teams up the bank. The wagon I rode in crossed at two minutes after 2:00, and in a little while all were safely over. We proceeded on till half past five, when we arrived at the Pawnee Missionary station which is about seven miles from Beaver River. The country this afternoon was more uneven, there being many steep ditches and rises. The grass appears longer and there is much rosing weed. The soil looks black and no doubt would yield a good crop of corn. This missionary station was deserted last fall, and Brother Miller's company being camped here, they carried the missionaries and their effects to Bellview on the Missouri river. This is a very beautiful place for a location. On the north and west it is surrounded by bluffs, on the south by the Loop Fork at about three quarters of a mile distance. On the east by descending prairie. The Plumb Creek runs through it, and but a few rods from the missionaries' house. Its banks are lined with a little timber. There is also a steep bank on each side, and between these banks in the valley which is a few rods wide, the Sioux have practiced coming down when they have made their attacks on the Pawnees. The ravine is certainly well calculated to shelter an enemy from observation when designing to make a sudden attack. There are a number of good log houses here, considerable land under improvement enclosed by rail fences, and a good quantity of hay and fodder, large lots of iron, old and new, several plows and a drag. All apparently left to rot. There are also two stoves, etc. The government station is a quarter of a mile below, or south where father Case lived as government farmer and received $300.00 a year for it, but when Major Harvey learned at the last payday, which was last November, that father Case had joined the "Mormons" he very politely dismissed him from the government service. The Sioux came down sometime ago and burned up the government station houses, blacksmith shop and everything, but the missionary station they did not touch. This place according to my account is 134 miles from Winter Quarters, and a lovely place to live. Before dark the President called the camp together, and told them they might use the fodder and hay for their teams, but forbade any man carrying anything away, even to the value of one cent. He said he had no fears of the Pawnees troubling us here, but we had better be prepared lest the Sioux should come down and try to steal horses. A guard was selected and a picket guard to watch the ravine to the north. The cannon was also prepared and Brother Tanner drilled his men to use it till dark. At 9:00 p.m. I retired to rest and slept well through the night. The variation of the compass is about 12 degrees at this place.
I again introduced the subject of fixing machinery to a wagon wheel to tell the distance we travel, describing the machinery and time it would take to make it, etc., several caught, the idea and feel confident of its success.
Arose this morning at 5:30, my face bad again through sleeping cold. The air chilly but a very pleasant morning. President Young, Heber and others are gone to the river to ascertain where we can best ford it. There is a ford a little distance from here, and another about four miles above, but the latter is in the neighborhood of another band of the Pawnees and they are desirous to avoid it if possible. They started out on horseback at a quarter to eight and the camp remained here till they returned. Some are working, some fixing wagons, etc. The day is now warm and very pleasant. I went to Plumb creek and washed my feet which are very sore. The brethren returned at a quarter to 12:00 and reported that we would have to go about four miles and there build a raft. Tarlton Lewis was appointed to superintend the building of the raft. President Young then stated in regard to the plows, iron, etc., which lies around here, for the government is owing father Case considerable for services, and he has the privilege of taking this for his pay. He will do it and if the brethren want the iron, etc., they can have by hauling it, one half, and father Case the other half, and he (Case) will write and inform them what he has done. I started on foot about 12:00 and viewed the ruins of buildings, etc., which the Sioux have burned. There is a large quantity of good bar iron, and a number of plows, which the brethren put into their wagons on the terms proposed by father Case. Two miles from Plumb creek, passed another creek not very good to ford, although it is narrow but sandy. Two miles farther arrived at the intended crossing place, but the prospect looks dull for rafting on account of sandbars and very rapid current. My feet were so sore and blistered I could not walk for some time after I got there. The sun is very hot and no wind. At 3:20 the wagons arrived and prepared to ford the river. Luke Johnson was the first who went over, leaving the boat on this side, and although he had no load, nor even a wagon box, it was with difficulty he got over. Orson Pratt started next with a part of his load. When he had got in about a rod, his horses began to sink some in the sand and they could not draw. A number of the brethren jumped in and lifted at the wheels, etc., till they got him to the bar in the middle. He then started for the other bar and about half way across his horses sank in the quicksand so badly that one of them fell down. A number of the men immediately went to his assistance and took them off the wagon and led them across to the sand bar. President Young went over in the boat and took the loading out of the carriage into the boat. The carriage was drawn to the sand bar by men with a long rope. The brethren then assisted Elder Woodruff's team over in the same way, also John Pack's and Wordsworth's. President Young then ordered that no more wagons should go over that way, but move up the river about a quarter of a mile and camp until morning. The camp was formed about 5:30 p.m. The river is not more than two feet deep, but there are a great many beds of quicksand which are dangerous to teams, and calculated to shake a wagon to pieces. They make a noise when crossing the quicksands as if they were going over a stone pavement.
The country here is indeed beautiful and appears rich, but there is very little timber. After crossing Plumb creek, there is plowed land for nearly two miles on the right but not fenced. It appears to have yielded a good crop of corn. The land on the left to the river is level and beautiful for a farm. We are now camped about a quarter of a mile from the old Pawnee village on a splendid table of land, level and pleasant as heart could desire. It is not much over three quarters of a mile wide and shielded on the north by beautiful rolling bluffs and on the south by the Loop Fork of the Platte. From this bank can be seen the timber on the banks of the main Platte, the bottom from here to it appears very level. There is something romantic in the scenery around here, and the prospect cannot well be exaggerated.
In the evening the captains of tens were called together and a vote taken to build two light rafts, Tarlton Lewis to superintend one and Thomas Woolsey the other. As many loads of property as can be carried over in the boat will be done, and the teams with empty wagons will ford it. It is said that by going over several times with teams the sand will pack down and be good crossing, several of those who have been across believe this from today's experience and they calculate to give it a fair trial tomorrow. Amongst the rest of those who waded the river to help the wagons over, Brother Kimball joined and assisted one team to the other side, and then returned in the boat with President Young.
Arose soon after 5:00. Morning fine, but cool. One of Phineas Young's horses was choked to death last night. It appears he was tied to a stake with a chain near a steep hole in the ravine, and either stepped back or lay down and rolled over into the hole, and the chain being short he was choked to death, having no power to extricate himself. This is a grievous loss for there are no more teams in the camp than what are absolutely necessary, and in fact, there are hardly enough to get along very comfortably. By request of Brother Kimball, I went up to the old Indian village immediately after breakfast to take a view of it, and write a description as near as circumstances would permit which is as follows:
This village is situated on the north bank of the Loop Fork of the Nebraska or Platte river, about four miles southwest of the mission station on Plumb creek and 138 miles from Winter Quarters. The Pawnee nation is divided into four bands. The names of the bands are the Grand Pawnee, the Loop, the Tappas, and the Republican. When the nation settled in this region the Grand Pawnees and the Tappas located on the west bank of Plumb creek and the Loops located on this spot and were afterwards joined by the Republicans. When the Sioux made war on the Indians at the first settlement and destroyed their village, the Grand Chief saw that his party were unable to cope with their hostile foes alone, and it was concluded that the four bands should locate together on this spot, but notwithstanding this, the Sioux succeeded in burning this village last summer during the absence of the Pawnees when on their hunt. They rebuilt most of it again, but last fall the Sioux made another attack and burned the whole village except one dwelling or lodge, which is not harmed. There are three or four others but partially destroyed, the rest are entirely demolished and levelled with the ground. The Pawnees then moved to the place where we passed them a few days ago, and are dwelling in their lodges made of hides, etc. The name of the Grand Chief is Shefmolan, who is also the superior chief of the Pawnee band. All documents or treaties made by the nation are signed by this chief and the nation is then bound by them. The head chief of the Loup band is named Siscatup, the other chiefs, father Case did not recollect their names. From him I obtained this information. There is a part of the Loup band on the main Platte, some distance from here, who have never yielded to the government treaties, but stand out from the rest of the nation and spend their time mostly in plundering other tribes as well as travelers. They frequently go as far as the Cherokee nation to rob and plunder. All the Pawnee nation are noted for their love of plundering travelers of their horses and mules, but not often anything else.
On the east and west of the village is a beautiful level bench of prairie extending many miles, and to the ridge of bluffs which run east and west touching within a mile of the village. On the top of the bluffs can be seen a number of Indian graves. To the northwest about a mile distant, and at the foot of the bluffs is an extensive corn field, the stalks still standing. On the south is a beautiful view of the nice level prairie extending to the main branch of the Platte, the timber on the banks can be faintly, but plainly seen. The Loup Fork is probably about 400 yards wide at this place and very shoal, except a narrow channel near the shore on this side which is probably three feet deep. The bottom is mostly quicksand and not safe fording. About half the surface from bank to bank is sand bars which appear above the surface of the water mostly on the south side. There are several small islands and a little timber to the right or west. The village occupies a space of about 40 acres of land, and is mostly enclosed by a ditch about five feet wide, and a bank inside the ditch about four feet high, running from the bank of the river around the village till it again strikes the bank, and when perfect, has formed a good fortification. A number of lodges are built outside the ditch on the east and on account of want of room inside when the bands from the other village joined them. The village is composed of about 200 houses or lodges varying in size but all similarly constructed, as appears from the remnants of some left standing. While I take this sketch, I sit in the one left unharmed, which it is said was owned by the chief Siscatup, and as the lodges are all constructed in the same manner, only differing in size, I will endeavor to describe the way in which this is built. In the first place, the earth is dug out a little, slanting to the depth of about 18 inches in the form of a perfect circle about 44 feet in diameter. This forms the floor of the dwelling. Then there are 17 crotch posts let into the floor in a direction slanting outward so that the top of the crotch is about perpendicular with the outside of the circle, the foot being set about 18 or 20 inches from the base of the circle. These posts are arranged at about equal distances from each other around the circle. In the crotches, poles are laid across from crotch to crotch, and are sufficiently high for the tallest man to stand upright under them. At the distance of 18 or 20 inches from the outside of the circle are many smaller poles let into the surface of the ground, on an average of about a foot apart and leaning inward so that the top of the poles rest on the cross pieces which are supported by the crotches. The space between the foot of these poles and the edge of the circle forms a bench for seats entirely around the house, and there is room sufficient for more than a hundred men to seat themselves on it very comfortably. On the outside of these last mentioned poles are laid a number of still smaller poles horizontally from bottom to top from about 9 inches to a foot apart, these are lashed fast to the upright poles by strings made of bark. On the outside of these is laid a thick layer of long prairie grass and occasionally lashed through to the upright poles also. The whole is then covered with earth about two feet in thickness at the bottom and gradually thinner towards the top. This forms an enclosure when completed around the whole area about seven feet high, a place being left sufficiently large for the door. The next process is to place erect ten upright poles or crotches, very stout, being about a foot in diameter about seven feet nearer the center of the circle than the first crotches. These are set perpendicular, deep in the ground and also arranged at about equal distances from each other, and form a strong foundation which is the design and use to which they are appropriated. On the top of these pillars are also horizontal poles laid strong and firm, the top of the pillars being about eleven or twelve feet above the floor. Long small poles are then laid from the outside horizontal poles over the inner ones and sufficiently long to meet at the top within about two feet of each other, forming a hole for the smoke from the fire to ascend through. These long poles are laid pretty close together all around the building, and across them smaller ones are lashed with bark as in the first instance, only they are much closer together. The operation of lashing on a layer of long grass and finally covering the whole with earth, completes the roof of the building. The door or entrance is a long porch formed by placing in the earth four upright posts or crotches far enough apart to extend outwards from the circle, about 18 or 20 feet. There are four upright crotches on each side the porch and in the crotches, poles are laid horizontally as in the other parts of the building. The process of lashing sticks across, then a thick coat of long grass and lastly a stout coat of earth, is the same as the other parts of the building. The roof of the porch is flat and is about seven feet high and six feet wide. The porch is dug down about half as deep as the main building, making a short step at the mouth of the porch and another one at the entrance into the house. The fire has been made in the center of the house directly under the hole in the roof.
At the farther side of the building, exactly opposite the porch, is a projection of sod left about a foot from the outside of the circle which is said to have been the seat of the chief, and over which hung his medicine bag and other implements.
The crotches are arranged so that there is a free passage to the center of the hall from the porch one standing on each side at the entrance about six feet apart and the others appear to be arranged from them. The smaller houses have not so many pillars as this one. Some have eight in the center and sixteen outside the circle. Others have four in the center and ten outside. The entrances are also smaller in proportion, but all are constructed on the same principle. It looks a little singular to note that nearly all the entrances to these lodges front to the southeast, except in one or two instances where they front in other directions for lack of room. It is probable that this is done to avoid the effects of the severe cold northwest winds so prevalent in winter.
Adjacent to each lodge is a stable or pen, which has been designed for keeping horses in. These are mostly left unharmed. They are constructed by placing poles upright in the ground from two to three inches in diameter as close together as possible and about ten feet high. About five or six feet above the ground cross poles are laid horizontally, and each of the upright poles are firmly lashed to the cross poles by strips of bark, so as to make them firm and secure them from being moved out of their place. The stables are mostly built square, with a door left on one side sufficiently large to admit a horse. There are some circular stables but not so many as the square ones. The horses appear to have been penned in by placing loose poles across the doorway, for there is no other sign of a door visible.
Around each lodge there are also several cachets where corn and other necessities are deposited. The cachets are large holes dug in the ground, or rather under the ground, the entrance being only just large enough to admit a common sized man. They are made pretty much after the shape of a large demijon. The cachets are generally about six feet high inside and about fifteen feet in diameter; there is a gradual slope from the mouth to the extreme corner and a little bowing, which forms the roof. The surface of the earth above, at the mouth, is about two and a half or three feet deep. Some of these are said to be capable of holding a hundred bushels of corn, and when filled there is a thick coat of grass laid on the top and the mouth then filled up nicely with earth, and when finished a stranger would not have the least suspicion that there was a storehouse full of corn under his feet.
I finished taking the foregoing sketch soon after noon, and then had intended to go on the bluffs and examine the Indian graves, but it being very warm, and perceiving the teams crossing the river very rapidly, I returned, and found most of the teams over. They commenced crossing about eight o'clock, some unloaded their goods on the bank which were carried in the boat to the sand bar, the teams going down to the ferry to cross. After a few wagons had gone over, it was perceived that they went over with less difficulty, and by doubling teams they soon took over the loaded wagons without much difficulty. I prepared to wade over the river, inasmuch as the wagon I am with was gone over, and in fact, all Heber's wagons were over except one, but Jackson Redding brought me Porter Rockwell's horse to ride over, and I mounted and proceeded. I found the current strong indeed, and about as much as a horse could do to ford it without a load. I soon got over safe and wet only my feet. At 3:00 p.m. the last wagon was over on the solid sand bar, and about four o'clock all the wagons and teams were safely landed on the bank on the south side of the Loop Fork without any loss or accident, which made the brethren feel thankful indeed. A little before four, the wagons started on to find a better place to camp and feed for our teams, where we can stay comfortable until Monday and give the teams a chance to rest, for they as well as the men are very tired by wading against the strong current on the quick sand. The bottom land on this side is more sandy than on the other side, but the grass appears higher but not so thick on the ground. The bluffs on the other side look beautiful from here, and the Indian graves show very plain. We went on about three miles and camped beside a small lake near the river. I traveled this on foot. Soon as we arrived Porter Rockwell discovered that there were many sun fish in the lake. I took a couple of hooks and lines, handed some to him, and went to fishing myself with the others and we had some fine sport. I caught a nice mess which Brother Egan cooked for supper, and although they were small they made a good dish. Many of the brethren caught a good mess each. Brother Higbee came down with the seine and made two hauls but caught none on account of the grass in the bottom of the lake. We have good reasons to suspect that we are watched by the Indians as their footsteps have been seen on the bluffs south, apparently very fresh, but the guard are faithful and we have no fear. The cannon was prepared again so as to be ready in case there should be an attack. Evening I walked over to Orson Pratt's wagon, and through his telescope saw Jupiter's four moons very distinctly never having seen them before. I went over to my wagon and looked through my glass and could see them with it, but not so distinct as with Orson's. The evening was very fine and pleasant. About ten o'clock retired to rest in good health and spirits, thankful for the mercies of the day that is past.
Arose soon after five, shaved and changed some of my clothing. The morning very pleasant, wind west. Our course for the last seven miles has been about southwest. We are about 14 miles from the main branch of the Platte river and it is said that if we travel on this fork one hundred miles farther, we shall then be not over thirty miles from the main branch. This morning saw four antelope on the other bank of the river about a mile and a half northwest. Afternoon Elijah Newman was baptized by Tarlton Lewis in the lake for the benefit of his health. Brother Newman has been afflicted with the black scurvy in his legs and has not been able to walk without sticks, but after being baptized and hands laid on him he returned to his wagon without any kind of help seemingly much better. Soon after 5:00 p.m. a meeting was called at the wagon of President Young, and remarks made by several, and instructions by President Young chiefly in reference to the guard and the folly of conforming to gentile military customs on an expedition of this nature. After dark the twelve and some others met together opposite the President's wagon to select men to go a hunting buffalo, etc., as we proceed on the journey. It was ascertained that there are eight horses in the company which are not attached to teams. Then eight men were selected to ride on horseback, viz., Thomas Woolsey, Thomas Brown, John Brown, O. P. Rockwell, John S. Higbee, Joseph Mathews. Then there were selected eleven men to hunt also on foot, viz., John Pack, Phineas H. Young, Tarlton Lewis, Joseph Hancock, Edmund Ellsworth, Roswell Stevens, Edson Whipple, Barnabas L. Adams, Benjamin F. Stewart, Jackson Redding and Eric Glines. It was also voted that the twelve have the privilege of hunting when they have a mind to. After some remarks and cautions in regard to chasing the wild buffalo, the company was dismissed, and I retired to rest soon after nine o'clock, the evening being very fine and pleasant.
This morning about 3:30 an alarm was sounded. I immediately got out of the wagon and learned that three of the guard who were stationed to the northeast of the camp had discovered some Indians crawling up towards the wagons. They first received alarm from the motions of one of our horses, and noticing this they went towards the spot and listening, heard something rustle in the grass; they first suspected they were wolves and fired at them. Only one gun went off and six Indians sprang up and ran from within a few rods of where they stood, another gun was then fired at them and the camp alarmed. A strong guard was placed all around, and a charge of cannister put in the cannon. The day was just breaking when this took place and the moon had just gone down. The air being extremely cold and fires put out, I retired into the wagon till morning and arose again at half past five. After daylight, the footsteps of the Indians could be plainly seen where they had come down under the bank and sometimes stepped into the water. No doubt their object was to steal horses, and they had a fair privilege if the guard had been found asleep, for the camp was only formed in a half circle and some horses were tied outside. However, the prompt reception they met with will have a tendency to show them that we keep a good watch and may deter them from making another attempt. Orders were given for the tens to assemble for prayers this morning, instead of two in each wagon, which was done. President Young told me this morning that as soon as my health will permit, he wants me to assist Brother Bullock in keeping minutes, etc., as Brother Bullock is hard run, having to take care of a team and attend to other chores.
The camp started out about 8:00 a.m. I started at 7:30 on foot and traveled four miles, then waited for the wagons. There is no road here, consequently, President Young, Kimball, G. A. Smith, A. Lyman and others went ahead on horseback to point out the road. The horse teams traveled first to break the strong grass so that it will not hurt the oxen's feet. The hunters started out in different directions keeping only a few miles from the wagons. We traveled about seven miles and then stopped at 11:30 beside a few little holes of water to rest and feed teams, etc. From this place which is somewhat elevated, can be seen the remains of an old village or Indian fort, over the river about northwest from here. The country looks beautiful, somewhat rolling and bounded by uneven bluffs. The land looks poor and sandy. The sun is very hot and not much wind. I find it has a great tendency to make sore lips, parched up and feverish. At 1:45 all the wagons were on the way again. We traveled about seven miles. We crossed two slough or soft places though not very bad. They are the first since we left Winter Quarters. The roads are more uneven than on the other side the river. We had to make a new road all day. At 6:15 the encampment was formed on the east banks of a small creek with a very gravelly bottom. The wagons are formed in a deep hollow and so low that they cannot be seen at a quarter of a mile distance. There is no fresh grass here, neither has the old grass been burnt off. We have crossed a number of trails today which some say are buffalo trails. They all run towards the river, and in some places there are 8 or 9, others, not more than two, and so on, together running about a half a yard apart. The hunters have seen no buffalo. Woolsey killed a goose. There is no timber here, only a few small willows. We are about a half a mile from the river, and there doesn't seem to be much timber on the river. Our course today has been about southwest. About a mile back from this place situated on a high bench of land on the banks of the river is the remains of an Indian village, the houses or lodges being all down and no appearance of timber left. The entrances to these lodges all face to the southeast, the same as those back at the other village. There has evidently been a garden around the village as the land has been broken and bears marks of cultivation. This morning Brother Benson discovered that one of the iron axles of his wagon was broken, and he moved the load so that there was no weight on the part which was broken, and traveled with it all day. This evening the wagon was unloaded, the axle taken off, Brother Tanner's forge set up, and the axle welded and fixed ready to put to the wagon again. This was done in the short space of one hour after the encampment was formed. The welding was performed by Brother Burr Fost. About eight o'clock Joseph Mathews came into camp from seeking his horses and stated that an Indian had rode a horse off a little before and he supposed it was Brother Little's horse, which was missing. Dr. Richards' mare was also missing. Brother Mathews stated that he went out to seek for his black man who was out watching his teams, and as he arrived he saw Brother Little's horse as he supposed going towards the river. He ran towards it to turn it back to camp, but as soon as he commenced running the horse sprang to a gallop, which made him suppose there was an Indian on him although he could not see the Indian. As soon as he gave the alarm five or six of the brethren mounted their horses, and pursued on the course pointed out to the river, but could neither see nor hear a horse or Indian. When they returned, President Young and Kimball and a number of others went out on horseback and searched till near eleven o'clock, but likewise proved unsuccessful. The brethren have been repeatedly warned not to let their horses go far from their wagons, but every time we stop they can be seen around for more than two miles. These are two good horses and the owners feel bad enough, but it will be a warning to others to be more careful.
Arose soon after five. The morning fine and pleasant. During the night the guard fired twice but they supposed they were wolves they fired at. I went back to the old Indian village before breakfast, and also with O. P. Rockwell, to see if any tracks of the lost horses could be found. He followed one track some way into a bunch of willows, but having no arms we returned. At 7:45 the wagons commenced moving and traveled till 2:15 being about twelve miles nearly a south course, the design being to go to the main branch of the Platte. President Young, Kimball and others went forward again to point out the road. O. P. Rockwell and some others started back to hunt the horses about the time we started. The land today has been very rolling and uneven. It is also very sandy and dry. After traveling about four miles through dead grass we found a large space where the grass had been burned off. Here it is quite green, and there are quantities of buffalo dung, which proves that we are not far distant from some of them. The hunters have been out again but have not discovered any. There are a great many lizards on these sand ridges, but they are of a small size. President Young and Kimball discovered a dog town a piece back, and many little prairie dogs. In one hole was a very large rattlesnake, and around the holes many small owls which seem to correspond with what travelers have said previously, that the prairie dog, rattlesnakes, and owls all live in the same hole together. The sun is very hot but there is a nice west wind although it is dry and parches our lips. When we stopped at noon the brethren dug several holes and obtained a little water, as there is none here above the surface. They could not obtain any for the cattle and horses. At 3:15 the teams commenced to move again. Just as they started, John Brown, Roswell Stevens and Brother Woodruff all shot at an antelope. They all hit him and killed him. Having skinned it, they put it into one of the wagons. The afternoon was very hot and the roads very dusty. After traveling about two miles some of the ox teams gave out and had to stop and feed. The rest went on till they found a small branch of water and the grass being very good we stopped for the night at half past five, having traveled about four miles, course about south. President Young and several others went back with mules and horses to assist the teams up which are behind. Luke Johnson shot a very large rattlesnake and brought it to camp for the oil. Roswell Stevens killed a hare, the nearest like the English hare of any I have seen in this country. Soon after we arrived here it began to lightning and thunder and we had a light shower with a very strong wind. There is an appearance of more rain which is very much needed indeed. At 6:30 O. P. Rockwell, Joseph Mathews, John Eldridge and Thomas Brown returned from hunting the two lost horses. They reported that they went back to within about two miles of where we encamped on Sunday and looking off towards the river they saw something move in the grass at the foot of a high mole. They proceeded towards it thinking it was a wolf, when within about twelve or fourteen rods Porter stopped to shoot at the supposed wolf. The moment he elevated his rifle, fifteen Indians sprang to their feet, all naked except the breech cloth, and armed with rifles and bows and arrows. Each man having a rifle slung on his back, and his bow strung tight in his hand and about twenty arrows. The Indians advanced towards them but the brethren motioned and told them to stop and held their rifles and pistols ready to meet them. When the Indians saw this they began to holler "bacco! bacco!" The brethren told them they had not tobacco. One of the Indians came close beside J. Mathew's horse to shake hands with Mathews but kept his eye on the horse's bridle. When nearly within reach of the bridle, Brown cocked his pistol and pointed at the Indian shouting if he did not leave he would kill him. At which, the Indian seeing the pistol ready to fire, retreated. The Indians made signs to get the brethren lower down the river, but the brethren turned their horses to come to camp, thinking it unsafe to go near to the timber where they expected more Indians lay in ambush. When the brethren turned to come back the Indians fired six shots at them with their rifles and the brethren immediately faced about at which the Indians fled towards the timber below. The brethren did not shoot at the Indians, even when the Indians shot at them. They saw the tracks of the horses which are missing and returned satisfied that Pawnees have got them, and no doubt intended to get the horses on which the brethren rode, but they met with too stern a reception to risk an attempt. Some of these same Indians were amongst those who came into camp when we stopped for dinner near their village, and proves that they eyed the horses pretty close, and also proves that they have followed us close ever since. The brethren ran great risks indeed, but got back safe to camp without harm.
About the same time the brethren returned, a gun accidentally went off and broke the nigh fore leg of Brother Mathew's horse. Those who saw the accident state that when the rain came on, some of the men put their guns in John Brown's wagon, loaded and with the caps on. Brother Brown threw his coat on the guns, and soon after went to get his coat and plucking it up, some part of the coat caught the cock of the gun and raised it so that when the coat slipped off, the gun went off, and the ball struck the horse's leg on the back side about half way between the knee and upper joint. The bone was broke entirely off. There were several men and horses close by the wagon at the time. The wagon was set on fire, but soon put out with little damage. This makes four of the best horses lost within the last four days, but the last circumstance is by far the most painful, and breaks up Brother Markham's team. Brother Brown made Heber a present of a little antelope meat. About dark the wind moved to the north and blew strong a little while and we had a little more rain.
Morning fine and pleasant, no Indians. The wind blew strong from the northeast which makes it much cooler. There are many wolves and antelope around here, but no buffalo have been seen as yet. Orders were given this morning for no man to leave the wagons except the hunters. The brethren had to make a road down to the small creek near which we camped. This occupied till about nine o'clock, when the wagons commenced crossing; the last wagon crossed at ten o'clock and then the camp proceeded on, President Young, Kimball, and several others going before to point out the road while the wagons were crossing the creek. Brother Luke Johnson shot the horse dead which had his leg broke last night. The horse belonged to Brother Barney, but was in Markham's team and was a good one, but they concluded it was better to shoot her than leave her alone to the mercy of the Indians. Our course for the first seven miles was a little east of south over a very level prairie and green with grass. The largest wild onions grow here I have ever seen. After traveling about seven miles we turned southwest, being within a mile of the main Platte and opposite to Grand Island. We traveled till 2:30 and then stopped to feed, having come about eleven miles today. The roads are extremely dusty and the strong wind blows it into the wagons and everything is covered. We are now near to timber and a good chance for grass for the cattle. At 4:00 p.m. we moved again and traveled till six, having traveled about four miles, and during the day, about fifteen miles. We have camped about a quarter of a mile from the timber and there is plenty of grass to fill the stock tonight. The water is also clear and cool and good tasting. The evening is cloudy and very cool, which affects my head some. Suppered on some antelope and went to bed early.
The wagons started at five o'clock this morning before breakfast, to find more grass as this is all eaten off. We traveled till 6:30 being about three miles, and then turned out the teams to feed. The morning very cool. There seems to be very little rain in this country and no dew. Breakfasted on goose and mouldy bread. At twenty minutes after eight, the teams started again and after traveling about two miles came to a very pretty stream of good water, (Wood River) about ten feet wide on an average, but at the fording place about a rod wide. We were detained some here, but all got over safely. We then traveled on a table or prairie gently ascending for four or five miles but very even and good traveling. At 1:00 p.m. we stopped beside a small lake to rest and feed teams, having traveled about ten miles today. The wind south and strong. One of Orson Pratt's horses is very sick, supposed to be the bots. He has lain down several times in the harness within the last three hours. I am not astonished, as the wagons and everything else is shrinking up, for the wind is perfectly dry and parching; there is no moisture in it. Even my writing desk is splitting with the drought. At 2:30 p.m. we started again and traveled till about 6:30 over tolerable level prairie, distance about eight miles, and nearly a southwest course. The wind was strong from southwest till sundown and then turned to northeast. The clouds of dust were almost sufficient to suffocate everyone. I rode Heber's horse this afternoon and went before the wagons. Saw many antelope, and the brethren had a good chance to kill one, but they missed it, although three of them shot at it. We camped at night close to Grand Island where there is an abundance of rushes for cattle. There is also a white substance that seems to ooze out of the ground around here, and tastes like salt, but not so strong as common salt. Brother Orson Pratt's horse is better and the day has passed without accident.
Arose at half past five. Morning cool and pleasant. The teams have filled themselves with rushes. Started at 7:40 and soon after the camp started, I started ahead on foot and have traveled about five miles. The prairie level and green with grass. We travel on the first bench about three quarters of a mile north of the timber on Grand Island. There are many wild geese on the prairie, also buffalo dung, but none very recent. There are immense patches of blue grass which from appearances, the buffalo are fond of. There are also numerous patches of buffalo grass which is very short, thick on the ground, and curly like the hair on a buffalo's hide, and much resembling it, except in color. About a mile from where we camped last night, we passed a place where the Indians have camped no doubt during their hunt. They must have been very numerous for their camp has covered a number of acres of ground. President Young, Kimball and Lyman are gone ahead on horseback to look out the road. We have thus far followed the Indian trail, but it is now so grown over and so old it is scarce discernible. The wind blows strong from the north and the dust is very bad. The atmosphere is dull and cloudy. Our course today has been about west. At a quarter to twelve we stopped to feed beside a small creek of clear, good, water, having traveled about eight miles. The grass along this creek is long and plentiful. We are about a half a mile from Grand Island.
Having the privilege of copying from Brother Bullock's journal, I will now record the names of the standing guard as organized April 16th, also the men selected by Brother Tanner to form the gun division as ordered Saturday, April 17th.
Tarlton Lewis, Stephen H. Goddard, Seeley Owens, Thomas Woolsey, John G. Luce, Horace Thorton, Charles D. Barnam, Sylvester H. Earl, George Scholes, Rufus Allen, William Empey, John Holman, George R. Grant, William P. Vance, James Craig, Datus Ensign, William Dykes, John Dixon, Samuel H. Marble, Artemus Johnson, Norton Jacobs, Addison Everett, William Wordsworth, John W. Norton, Francis M. Pomroy, Lyman Curtis, Horace M. Frink, Erastus Snow, Hans C. Hanson, William C. A. Smoot, Barnabas L. Adams, Rodney Badger, Charles Burk, Alexander P. Chesley, Appleton M. Harmon, David Powell, Joseph Mathews, John Wheeler, Gillrid Summe, Mathew Ivory, Edson Whipple, Conrad Klineman, Joseph Rooker, Nathaniel Fairbanks, Ozro Eastman, Andrew S. Gibbons, William A. King, Thomas Tanner, Hosea Cushing, and John H. Tippets.
The names of the gun detachment are as follows:
Thomas Tanner, Captain; Stephen H. Goddard, Seeley Owens, Thomas Woolsey, John G. Luce, Horace Thornton, Charles D. Barnam, Sylvester H. Earl, George Scholes and Rufus Allen.
At twenty minutes after ten o'clock started again, the wind blowing from the north tremendously strong, and clouds of dust arose from under the wagon wheels. It has turned very cold and gloomy. We traveled again over a level prairie some distance from the river and turned off to camp under the bench soon after 5:00 p.m. having traveled about eight miles, our course a little southwest. The wagons were formed in an imperfect circle in such a manner as to have all the wagon mouths from the wind, which took near an hour to form the encampment. We are about a mile from water and a mile and a half from timber, with very little grass for our teams. It is now so cold that every man wants his overcoat on and a buffalo robe over it. We have had no accident and the brethren feel well, some are wrestling to keep themselves warm. Some have had the good luck to bring a little wood with them but it seems as if many will have a cold supper. And some perhaps little or nothing as they have no bread cooked. Eight p.m., the camp have found a good substitute for wood in the dried buffalo dung which lies on the ground here in great plenty, and makes a good fire when properly managed. Brother Kimball invented a new way of building a fire to cook on and which is well adapted to the use of this kind of fuel. He dug a hole in the ground about 8 inches deep, 15 inches long and 8 inches wide. Then at each end of this hole he dug another about the same dimensions as the first leaving about 3 inches of earth standing between the middle and two end holes. At the end of these partitions he made a hole through about 3 inches in diameter to serve as a draught. In the bottom of the middle hole the fire and fuel was placed, and across the top two wagon hammers to set the pots and pans on, so that the fire could have free circulation underneath. By this method much cooking was done with very little fuel. To save the trouble of carrying water so far a well was dug in a short time about 4 feet deep and good water obtained. After supper I went and gathered some dried buffalo dung (politely called buffalo chips) to cook with in the morning. Brother Hanson played some on his violin and some of the brethren danced to warm themselves. I went to bed early to get warm but having only one quilt for covering, I suffered much with cold. Brother Kimball rode ahead again on horseback and suffered some from cold.
The morning very cold indeed. Inasmuch as there is little grass for the cattle, the camp started out at 5:40 and traveled till a quarter after eight, six miles before breakfast. Soon after we started this morning three buffalo were seen grazing on the bluff about six miles distance. I could see them very plain with my glass. O. P. Rockwell, Thomas Brown and Luke Johnson started on horseback to try to kill some. Soon after they went, another herd of buffalo were seen to the northwest at the foot of the bluffs about eight miles off. I counted with my glass, 72, and Orson Pratt counted 74. Three of the brethren went on their horses after the latter herd. I watched the movement with the glass and saw that sometime before the brethren got to them, the buffalo fled and were soon after out of sight. We stopped for breakfast close to Grand Island and at 10:15 proceeded again. After traveling four miles we arrived at a small lake on our right at twelve o'clock which evidently connects with the river in high water. A little previous to this time the hunters returned and reported that Luke Johnson shot at one and dropped him on his knees, but he got up again and ran after the herd. They did not get any, but saw more farther west and went to give chase to the latter herd. When they got near them, they turned down under the bluffs and joined the herd chased by the last hunting party. Luke lost his cap and could not find it again. Brother Higbee said he could have shot one, but Woolsey told him to hold on and pick out a good one. They being pretty near, selected a cow and designed both to shoot at her, but while they were making their plans the herd started and they missed their chance. About the time the hunters returned, another still larger herd was discovered still farther west, also at the foot of the bluffs. The President stopped near the above mentioned lake and selected eleven men to go and give chase to the last seen herd and he gave them their instructions. Although they were at least eight miles from us, I distinctly counted 101 with my glass and amongst them many calves. This being the first day buffalo has been seen on our journey and in fact the first ever seen by any except about five or six of the brethren, it excited considerable interest and pleasure in the breasts of the brethren, and as may be guessed, the teams moved slowly and frequently stopped to watch their movement. When the hunters were within a mile or two from the herd, two of the dogs gave chase to an antelope, which made directly towards the buffalo. One of the dogs chased it till it went into the midst of the herd and when the buffalo saw the dog, they commenced to canter into a closer huddle. The dog, however, evidently frightened with their savage appearance, stopped and retraced his steps. About this time Elder Kimball seemed to get inspired with the idea of chasing the buffalo and he immediately called for Egan's fifteen shooter and started with it on full gallop. After the dog returned the buffalo did not move much from the place and the hunters moved gently along till they got pretty near them, at which time Heber joined, just as the herd discovered them and commenced galloping off. The brethren's feelings who were left with the wagons were now strung up to the highest pitch, a feeling of exciting interest appeared to prevail throughout the camp, they having heard and read so much of the mad ferocity of the buffalo when hotly pursued, and knowing that all the hunters were inexperienced in regard to hunting the wild buffalo. While they felt for the safety of the hunters, they still desired to see as much of the chase as the distance would allow, and were wishful that the chase might be successful as a number have no meat and a piece of fresh meat would taste good to all men and save our bread stuff, and the desire to taste the much famed buffalo meat created a longing desire to see some of the herd fall. Soon as the herd commenced galloping off, the hunters followed in pursuit at full gallop and soon closed in with them. At this time I got my glass and rested it on Brother Aaron Farr's shoulder, determined to see as much of the chase as possible. I soon discovered O. P. Rockwell ride into the midst of the herd which then appeared to number over 200, others having come in sight when the herd commenced to run. Porter was soon enveloped in the cloud of dust caused by the heavy tramp of the buffalo on the dry sandy ground, but in a very short time the herd began to separate and scatter in every direction, a small party coming down the bluff again and some running west under the bluffs, others going over. The hunters closed in on the first party and commenced their fire, especially at one cow which they finally succeeded in separating from all the rest, and determined to keep to her until they killed her, except Porter, who as soon as he had wounded her, left her with the hunters and pursued some of the rest. The cow was now in close quarters and after she had been shot through two or three times, Elder Kimball rode close to her with his fifteen shooter and fired over his horse's head, she dropped helpless and was soon dispatched. At the report of the gun which was very heavy loaded, Elder Kimball's horse sprang and flew down the bluff like lightning and he having let go the lines to shoot, her sudden motion overbalanced him and his situation was precarious to the extreme. The other hunters saw his situation and trembled for his safety but could render him no assistance. However, being a good horseman, he maintained his position in the saddle and soon succeeded in gaining the lines and by a vigorous effort succeeded after some time in reining in his horse and returned to the rest unharmed and without accident. All this movement passed about as quick as thought, and as soon as they saw the cow dead and all right they again followed in pursuit of the remaining buffalo. About this time three of the herd separated from the rest and came in a direction towards the camp on a gallop. President Young seeing this, ordered a halt, and the wagons to get close together lest the buffalo should, in their fury and excitement, venture to go between the wagons and do much mischief. However, they were discovered by some of the hunters nearer the camp and some foot men who gave chase to them changed their course when within about a mile from the camp. At this time I had a very good view of their shape, color and appearance when running which I shall endeavor to describe hereafter. Elder Kimball arrived in time to aid in the chase of these three which lasted some time. The hunters made choice of a large and very furious bull, and worked with him some time, shooting him through several times but all this did not seem to impede his progress. O. P. Rockwell said he had heard it said that a buffalo could not be hurt with a ball shot at his head. Having a fair chance with this one, he determined to satisfy himself, and (previous to his being wounded) gaining a little in advance came right in front within about a rod of him and discharged his rifle pistol which struck the center of his head, but with no other effect than to make it smoke a little, some dust fly and the raving animal shake savagely. The brethren, John S. Higbee and John Pack, soon after succeeded in dropping him and laid him dead at their feet, John Pack being the one that dropped him. During all this, other scenes were passing of equal interest. One of the calves was discovered within a few rods of the wagons, a shot fired at it and it was soon caught by the dogs, killed and put into a feed box. Porter chased another calf to within a mile of the camp previous to his chasing the bull. Some of the footmen surrounded and dispatched it, and soon after brought and put it in one of the wagons. Other brethren were still away at the bluffs, but we had no certainty of their success until Elder Kimball, John Pack, and several others came up to the camp after dispatching the bull and reported two other cows killed and three calves. This was a little before 5:00 p.m. When it was ascertained for a certainty that one was killed, the revenue cutter was unloaded and sent to fetch it to camp. It was reported that two other cows and three calves were killed. When Elder Kimball and others came up to the camp, President Young requested some of the brethren to unload their wagons and go and fetch the others reported to be killed, while the wagons would strike towards the river and camp for the night. The chase lasted from soon after 1:00 until 4:00 p.m. Soon four wagons were unloaded, the brethren having their loads on the ground in care of a guard, and were ready to start out. Having a great desire to see a buffalo in his natural state, my feet being very sore, and the distance to the bluffs being over three miles, I got into Brother Aaron Farr's wagon, he being one who unloaded to fetch in the meat, and we started for the one shot down by Elder Kimball, he and O. P. Rockwell following on horseback. On our route, we met Luke Johnson and two other hunters returning. Luke had a calf tied on his horse, himself on foot. When we arrived at the cow, we found that three of the brethren had come on foot and had already got the hide off, except the head. She was soon cut in two, put in the wagon with the rest of the meat, hide and head, and we started for the next cow which was about three quarters of a mile distant. This cow would probably weigh on foot, about 700 pounds. She was not very fat, but the meat looked nice and clean. When we arrived at the next cow, we found several of the brethren at work with her, they had got her hide off and soon had her in the wagon. We then proceeded to camp and got in soon after sundown. The meat was unloaded in the semi-circle opposite the President's wagon and placed on the hide which was spread on the ground for the purpose of keeping it clean. The brethren's faces beamed with joy to see the meat begin to come into camp, and with some astonishment to view the size and ferocious appearance of the head, which still had the hide on. Soon after the other wagons came in and each deposited its load in the same place. Joseph Mathews came in about the same time and reported that he had killed another calf after chasing it three miles, making the total number killed in the first day's buffalo hunt by the Camp of the Latter-day Saints, already reported as follows: one bull, three cows and six calves, a circumstance far exceeding our expectations and best hopes, and all without the slightest accident or loss to man or property, except Luke Johnson's cap and a ramrod to a rifle. There is, however, one shade of suspense caused by the intelligence that Joseph Hancock has not returned to camp. He started out on foot when the three buffalo were first discovered this morning and has not been seen or heard of for sometime. Considerable fear is entertained for his safety from the fact that he is lame, and it is evident, or at least considered so, that there are Indians near because a large smoke as of prairie burning has been seen all the afternoon within some six or eight miles to the west and must have been set on fire by somebody and the probability is, it is Indians, although none has been seen for several days. The meat was cut up into quarters and distributed one quarter to each company of ten, leaving some to be distributed in the morning, and in a short time every fire was loaded with it, and the camp had a good feast on the fruits of today's labors.
Soon after the hunters started out at noon we came to a long range of dog towns and saw many of the little prairie dogs playing around their holes. The extent of this dog town is yet unknown, for we have traveled over, and parallel with it about five miles this afternoon, and they seem to extend still farther west. In some places the town is nearly two miles broad, in others not so much, and must contain thousands of the little dogs. I could not get near enough to see their form distinctly, for they are so quick into their holes when anything approaches, you can only have a partial view of them. They appear to be about as long as a common grey squirrel but more chunky, a larger body and chubbed head. The tail is short, more resembling that of a dog, their color light brown. Their bark resembles the chirp of an English throstle, and something like the chirp of a squirrel. They appear to live on grass as it is all eaten off close to the ground throughout the extent of their dog town, and the ground looks naked and barren as a desert. Several of the brethren shot at the dogs but failed in killing any. We had a north wind this afternoon and cold weather, our course being nearly west over a level prairie, not far distant from the island. Since noon we traveled about eight miles, and the encampment was formed at half past six o'clock near a small lake about a mile above the head of Grand Island. The grass is not so good here as it has been back, and but a poor chance for the cattle, etc., to fill themselves.
The appearance of the wild buffalo at a distance is somewhat singular. The color of the back and about half way down the sides is a light brown, the rest is a very dark brown. The shoulder appears slightly rounding and humped. When running, the large shaggy head hangs low down, about half way in height between the ground and the top of the shoulder. They canter like any ox or cow, but appear far more cumbersome and heavy, especially about the fore parts, which look larger than they really are on account of the long, thick matty hair. They run tolerably fast, but a good horse will easily gain on them. They will run a long time without diminishing their speed. Their meat is very sweet and tender as veal.
This morning is fine but cold. Ice about half an inch thick. Sometime in the night a buffalo and calf came within a short distance of the wagons. The guard discovered them and shot at the calf, wounding it in the hind leg. They caught it alive and tied it up near the wagons but concluded finally to kill and dress it. About six o'clock we were gladdened to see Joseph Hancock come into camp with a piece of buffalo meat. He reported that he killed a buffalo yesterday back on the bluffs, and there being no one with him he concluded to stay by it over night. He made a fire and scattered a little powder around his buffalo to keep off the wolves. Some visited him during the night, but were awed by the fire. After he had told his story and taken breakfast, Brother Hancock started in company with four or five other brethren to fetch in the meat on horseback, as no wagons could get over the bluffs to it. They found that the wolves had devoured much of it, but the balance they brought along with them. They also killed two antelope and brought them into camp. The total number of buffalo now caught is five large ones and seven calves. Edmund Ellsworth killed one of the prairie dogs, and brought it to camp. It looks much like a squirrel, only the body is thicker and the tail short and no bush on it. The day grew pleasant till about noon, when it became cloudy and cold. President Young, Kimball and others started out to look out a camp ground where better feed can be obtained for our stock. They returned a little after two and gave orders to go on a few miles. There have been a number of buffalo seen in different directions, one grazing within three quarters of a mile from camp, but orders were not to hunt or shoot today. At three-fifteen the camp started and traveled two miles over dog towns as yesterday. At a little after four p.m. we camped beside a long lake of shoal, clear water near the banks of the Platte. This lake is about three rods wide and connects with the river. The Platte appears about two miles wide at this place but very shoal and muddy. There is no timber but plenty of grass, mostly last year's growth. The weather is more temperate and the wind ceased. President Young, Kimball and others went on to look out a crossing place over this lake, etc. On their way, they fell in with a buffalo cow and calf and chased them some to get a view of them but not to kill. On their return they said we should tarry here tomorrow and have some blacksmith work done and probably hunt some. Half of the hide off the bull's face was brought into camp. On examination I found the mark where Porter shot at his head. The ball made a small hole, barely cutting through the outer surface or grain of the hide which was near an inch thick. The hair near the top of the head is about a foot long.
This morning cold and ice in the water pails. The hunters are going out on foot. Tanner and Davenport are fixing their forges to do some repairing, shoeing, etc. At about nine the hunters, twenty in number, started out with two wagons which had been unloaded for the purpose. At the same time, fifteen of the brethren on horseback started west to examine the route, etc. At two-thirty the party who went to look out the route returned and reported that Brother Empey had discovered a large war party of Indians while he was chasing an antelope. The Indians are in a hollow about twelve miles distance and about three hundred in number, some on their horses and some standing beside them holding the bridle. The company also saw nearly twenty scattered Indians about four miles from here. When this report was made, orders were given to dispatch a number of the brethren on horses, well armed to warn the hunters and tell them to come to camp. In about half an hour, twenty-three men started out on this mission. Before they reached the bluffs which are about four miles from here, some of the hunters were on their way to camp, having seen only one buffalo during the day. In a little time all the hunters were notified and were on their way back. They arrived about six o'clock, having got three antelope, and the horsemen who went after them got two calves which were all brought in and the day passed without accident. Some of the brethren saw some objects at a distance, which, by their motions they were satisfied were Indians. The day has been fine but cool and cloudy, with occasionally a few drops of rain. A number of wagon tires have been set and other blacksmithing, washing, drying meat, etc., done. The wind near south. The cannon was unlimbered at night and prepared for action in case it should be needed.
The morning fine but cool, wind about southwest. Two horses ran east as much as six or eight miles and were pursued by the brethren and brought back. William Smoot was thrown from a horse and his senses knocked out of him by the fall. He soon recovered and appears to have sustained no injury.
At seven-thirty the camp was called and received instructions from President Young, especially in regard to leaving the wagons and scattering off hunting without counsel. He strongly urged the brethren not to do it any more and said if they did, some of them would be caught by the Indians and if not killed would be severely abused. The instructions and regulations given April 17th were read and enjoined upon the camp to be observed more strictly. It was decided that the cannon wagon should be unloaded, the box put on another wagon so that the cannon can be always ready for action. An addition of ten volunteers was made to the standing guard and ordered that all horses and mules should be tied inside the circle at night, and the cattle and cows outside within a few rods of the wagons. A guard to be placed around the cattle when turned out to graze. It is thought best to travel with the wagons four abreast and the cannon to go in the rear.
At nine o'clock the wagons commenced moving and passed over the lake near its junction with the river, at which place it is about ten or twelve feet wide.
After traveling about a half a mile the camp stopped some time, waiting for some wagons behind. While stopping, three wagons were discovered on the opposite bank of the river, considered to be traders going back to Council Bluffs. The river is about two miles wide and no person here acquainted with it, consequently no one attempted to go over, which many desired. About eleven o'clock we proceeded, five wagons abreast so as to be better prepared for defense should the Indians attack us. After traveling about two miles, one of the men from the wagons on the other side the river overtook us and we halted to see him. He said there are only nine of them. They have been to Fort Laramie for furs and are going to Council Bluffs. This is the sixteenth day since they left the fort with ox teams. He says the road is good on the other side and the river easily forded, being not more than knee deep in the deepest place and a good bottom. He cheerfully agreed to carry letters back for us but could not wait long. I wrote one to my family and in about half an hour a pretty large mail was made up to send back to Winter Quarters, and may the Lord grant that it may arrive safely. Brother Johnson bought a buffalo robe of the man for about a pound and a half of coffee, and another brother bought one for a pound of sugar and a little pork. I feel my mind relieved by this unexpected privilege of writing back to my dear family and hope they will have the pleasure of perusing the contents.
At twenty minutes after one the bugle sounded for a march, and the messenger is returning with the letters and a bag of provisions on his shoulder which the brethren have given him for carrying the letters. We traveled about four miles farther and at three-thirty, stopped to let the teams feed on a small spot where the fire has not touched, the rest having all been burned off within a few days. We have traveled today only about six miles, having stopped much. The country is still very level and nice traveling only for the dust. The wind south and our course nearly west. When the trader went back over the river, Thomas Woolsey, John Brown and John Pack accompanied him on horses to speak with a person whom Brother Woolsey is acquainted with. They returned soon after we stopped to feed and say that the river is very good to cross, not being more than two feet deep in the deepest place, and the bottom good. The horses broke through but very little. The traders say furthermore, that if we continue on this side, we shall have to cross the river twice where the water is much deeper and cannot be crossed only in a ferry. There is a good traveled road also, which would be an advantage we have not got on this side. During the time we stopped to feed, a guard was placed around the cattle and horses to keep them from straying far from the wagons. Then men were called out and drilled with their loaded guns in the circle formed by the wagons. Some objects are seen grazing about four miles west of us thought to be buffalo. Thirteen in number. Some of the hunters are going out to give them a chase, and try to kill some of them. At a quarter after five o'clock, the camp was called together and Brother Brown reported what the traders said about the route, etc., as above. The subject was then talked over and when it was considered that we are making a road for thousands of saints to follow, and they cannot ford the river when the snow melts from the mountains, it was unanimously voted to keep on this side as far as Fort Laramie at least. Soon after this we started on again. Saw a lone buffalo but a short distance from us but it galloped across the river. Saw also a number of antelope and some deer. About seven o'clock we passed a spot where the Indians have camped and must have been many of them. A while after sundown we arrived at a creek of good water and camped for the night, having traveled about nine miles today. The prairie level but all the grass burned off, except in small patches. We have camped on a small spot which has escaped the fire. Elder Kimball, who was one of the hunters who started out at four o'clock, said the objects seen from camp were antelope, but he had seen a herd of buffalo about a mile ahead of where we now are. He named this creek, Buffalo creek.
The morning fine and very pleasant. Saw two small herds of buffalo a few miles from camp. At seven-thirty continued our journey. I went on foot about two miles and then stopped to count the horses, mules, oxen, etc., and afterwards walked on again to the first wagons. Here Elder Kimball offered me his horse to ride. I then went ahead with the horsemen. We soon after came to a very bad slough and had to bear off to the north to find a place to cross it. The prairie after we crossed this slough about a mile wide from the river was very soft and it was necessary to bear still farther to the north. The horses' feet cut through the sod and the ground appeared wet under, although there has been no rain for some time. At eleven-thirty we stopped to feed on a small patch of unburnt grass, having come about nine miles, course about west, with a very strong south wind. There were two buffalo within about a half a mile from camp, grazing. Some of the brethren went to view them, but the orders of the day are not to kill anything which the men cannot carry to camp. There are no appearances of Indians near except the prairie which is still burning ahead of us, supposed to be set on fire by them. About one p.m. continued our journey and traveled till three p.m., when some of the hunters came in, bringing a live buffalo calf, also one they had killed. They reported that John Brown, Jackson Redding and John S. Higbee, Luke Johnson had each killed a calf, the one killed by Brother Higbee having previously been shot by Amasa Lyman. Joseph Mathews killed a cow and Elder Kimball, O. P. Rockwell and John S. Higbee chased the one brought in alive until a dog seized it and Porter left his horse and caught it without shooting at it and led it to camp. The revenue cutter was unloaded and sent after the cow and calf left, they being about three miles off. We traveled on about a half an hour and found the prairie all in a blaze. President Young and Kimball thinking it unsafe to risk the wagons near the fire, ordered the camp to go back a half a mile to an island where we can have water for our teams and be secure from the fire. The prairie is all burned bare and the black ashes fly bad, making the brethren look more like Indians than white folks. There is some feed on the island, and the cattle easily ford the stream to it. The calf is tied in the circle. When a dog goes near it, it will attack the largest and they flee from it, though not more than six or eight weeks old. About half past six the revenue cutter arrived with the meat, which was fatter than any we have had. They also brought in another calf which they killed while out for the cow, making a total of one cow and six calves brought into camp today. The meat was divided amongst the companies of ten, each having either a calf or half a quarter of a cow.
This morning at five-fifteen, President Young called to the camp and proposed to go on to where we can find feed for the teams. The brethren assented and he gave orders to start as quickly as possible. However, some must feed their teams a little corn, some milk their cows, etc., and it took till near six-thirty to get started. During the night the Lord sent a light shower of rain which has put the fire out except in one or two places and made it perfectly safe traveling. We have had a strong southeast wind through the night but the morning is calm and pleasant. We traveled about two miles and stopped on the unburned grass to feed at a quarter to seven. Several antelope were surrounded by the brethren and some shot at them, killing one. The rest made their escape. We can see several large herds of buffalo within about two miles of the camp and many calves amongst them. President Young and Kimball rode ahead to find a place to stop for feed. The ground is hard and good traveling. At a quarter to nine, proceeded on, President Young and Kimball going ahead to point out the road. Our course about northwest, the wind strong from west. We traveled near the river. Saw thirteen elk together, also many antelope and numerous herds of buffalo on both sides of the river. Jackson Redding shot an antelope which Luke Johnson chased near the wagons.
A young buffalo calf followed Luke to camp, but the President advised him to leave it as it is only a few days old. We stopped near the river at a quarter to twelve, having traveled about six miles. We find a little more grass here, but the numerous herds of buffalo keep it eaten off close to the ground nearly all the way we have traveled today. The President gave orders that no more game should be killed until further orders. It appears we have got as much meat in camp as can be taken care of. While we were stopping for noon, some of the cows moved off towards a large buffalo herd, and when President Young and Kimball started ahead after dinner they discovered the cows near the buffalo. Brother Woolsey went to turn them back, but he had to run his mule some distance before he could prevent the cows from mingling with the buffalo. They brought the cows back to the wagons and then proceeded ahead again. One part of the horsemen's business today has been to drive the buffalo out of our track, judging it unsafe to risk them between the wagons and the river. The camp proceeded on at one-thirty and in about two miles distance found a lake of clear water. Here we discovered the horsemen coming back, and found that the President had lost his large spy glass, while chasing the cows from the buffalo herd, a second time. He did not find it. We traveled slowly this afternoon, some of the horses and oxen having given out in consequence of lack of feed to sustain them. We traveled till six-thirty and camped near some islands in the river, having traveled about seven miles this afternoon and fifteen through the day, our course a little west of northwest. Wind about west. Some think we have traveled eighteen, some twenty and some even twenty-five miles today, but from the number of times we stopped and the slowness with which the teams moved, I feel satisfied that fifteen miles is plenty. About three quarters of a mile back we saw a buffalo cow which appears to be sick. She fought the dogs some time and then lay down, and the brethren went close to her, some venturing to feel and handle her. I was within six or eight feet of her and had a good view, as much as I wanted. She has lost all her hair and looks very poor and weak. The President ordered that the brethren leave her and not disturb her and she was left lying down, but it is doubtful the wolves will kill and eat her before morning. When the brethren went back to hunt the spy glass they found that the wolves had killed the calf and nearly eaten it up. What they had not eaten, they carried off with them. We have never been out of sight of herds of buffalo today, and from where we are camped, I am satisfied we can see over five thousand with the glass. The largest herd we have yet seen is still ahead of us. The prairie looks black with them, both on this and the other side of the river. Some think we have passed fifty, and some even a hundred thousand during the day, or have seen them. It is truly a sight wonderful to behold, and can scarcely be credited by those who have not actually seen them.
This morning the wind northwest and almost as cold as winter. The buffalo vastly numerous all around. About eight a.m. the camp was called together and measures taken to raise more teams to put to the canyon as some of the horses and even cattle have given out. The President chastised Elder Snow for not attending to the cows yesterday causing the President to lose his spy glass, it being Brother Snow's turn to drive the cows according to his own voluntary agreement. At a little before eleven o'clock, Porter Rockwell, Thomas Brown and Joseph Mathews started back to hunt the spy glass, and soon after they left, the camp proceeded onward. The day was cloudy and very cold. Our course about northwest. We traveled about seven miles and camped at two-thirty near several small islands, on the banks of the river. About four p.m., Porter and the others returned, having found the spy glass, which was a source of joy to all the brethren. At six-thirty the companies were called out to drill. I have been very sick all day with a complaint and have suffered much.
Morning cold but fine. Started out at nine o'clock and traveled till one p.m., distance seven and a half miles, course a little west of northwest. The prairie on both sides of the river is literally black with buffalo, and to try to say as to what number we have seen this morning would be folly. I should imagine that at a moderate calculation, we have seen over fifty thousand. They are more tame than they have been, and will stand till the wagons come within two hundred yards of them. Porter has shot one about two years old, the meat looks nice. There is no difficulty in getting meat enough. It is with some difficulty that the horsemen can drive them away from the track as fast as the wagons come up. It is very warm today, and no wind. I have counted the revolutions of a wagon wheel to tell the exact distance we have traveled. The reason why I have taken this method which is somewhat tedious, is because there is generally a difference of two and sometimes four miles in a day's travel between my estimation and that of some others, and they have all thought I underrated it. This morning I determined to take pains to know for a certainty how far we travel today. Accordingly I measured the circumference of the nigh hind wheel of one of Brother Kimball's wagons being the one I sleep in, in charge of Philo Johnson. I found the wheel 14 feet 8 inches in circumference, not varying one eighth of an inch. I then calculated how many revolutions it would require for one mile and found it precisely 360 not varying one fraction which somewhat astonished me. I have counted the whole revolutions during the day's travel and I find it to be a little over eleven and a quarter miles, twenty revolutions over. The overplus I shall add to the next day's travel. According to my previous calculations we were two hundred eighty-five miles from Winter Quarters this morning before we started. After traveling ten miles I placed a small cedar post in the ground with these words written on it with a pencil. "From Winter Quarters, two hundred ninety-five miles, May 8, '47. Camp all well. Wm. Clayton." Some have past the day's travel at thirteen and some fourteen miles, which serves to convince more strongly that the distances are overrated. I have repeatedly suggested a plan of fixing machinery to a wagon wheel to tell the exact distance we travel in a day, and many begin to be sanguine for carrying it into effect, and I hope it will be done. Our course this afternoon has been northwest, no wind and the prairie as bare as a poor English pasture, the grass being eaten off by uncountable herds of buffalo. No pen nor tongue can give an idea of the multitude now in sight continually, and it appears difficult to keep them away from the wagons. Two calves have been killed and brought to camp and multitudes would be killed if the President did not prohibit the brethren from killing them only as we need the meat. Truly, the Lord's cattle upon the thousand hills are numerous. We are now camped on the banks of the river within a quarter of a mile from where the range of bluffs, which have appeared exceedingly ragged all day, strike the river, and when we move again we have got to cross over them. President Young and Kimball have been back on the bluffs on foot some distance and report that as far as they can see the grass is eaten perfectly bare and the prospect for feed for our teams is poor indeed. There are several buffalo lying dead around here, whether dead from old age or by the hands of hunters or of starvation, it is unknown. Many of the brethren have to cook their victuals on dry buffalo dung, there being no wood near.
The morning very cold with wind southeast. At seven-fifty we proceeded on three and a half miles, going a little around some of the bluffs until we turned down on a low bottom and very sandy. We have camped near some islands and can get wood and water, but poor feed for the teams. We arrived here at nine-fifty and shall stay till morning. Soon as the camp was formed, I went about three quarters of a mile below to the river and washed my socks, towel and handkerchief as well as I could in cold water without soap. I then stripped my clothing off and washed from head to foot, which has made me feel much more comfortable for I was covered with dust. After washing and putting on clean clothing I sat down on the banks of the river and gave way to a long train of solemn reflections respecting many things, especially in regard to my family and their welfare for time and eternity. I shall not write my thoughts here, inasmuch as I expect this journal will have to pass through other hands besides my own or that of my family but if I can carry my plans into operation, they will be written in a manner that my family will each get their portion, whether before my death or after, it matters not.
The day is very warm and the wind has moved to the west. According to my calculations, we are now 300 miles from Winter Quarters, lacking a few rods. I got a small board and wrote on it: "From Winter Quarters three hundred miles, May 9, 1847. Pioneer Camp all well. Distance according to the reckoning of Wm. Clayton." This was nailed on a post and in the evening I went and set it up about three hundred yards from here on a bend of the river. Spent the afternoon reading and writing in Elder Kimball's journal. At three p.m. a meeting was called and the camp addressed by several. President Young took tea with Elder Kimball, and afterwards they started out together with one or two others to look at the country ahead of us. They went a few miles and found a small stream which we shall have to cross. Here they saw multitudes of buffalo coming to water. Porter and Phineas Young went within six or eight rods of them to try to get one, but in the whole herd, they could not find one fit to kill. They are very poor, for there is no feed for them, and in fact they are so numerous that they eat the grass as fast as it springs. There are, however, some good cottonwood groves and good water at the stream. After sundown the wind blew strong from the northwest and the evening was cold and chilly.
The morning fine but cool. The wind nearly ceased. Last night I dreamed that I was in company with the camp which was stopping beside a considerable river of deep water. Our horses and cattle were tied to stakes all around the camp to the distance of a quarter of a mile, some good timber thinly scattered around. I thought President Young, Kimball and several others started up the river in a flat boat without stating their object, leaving the brethren to guard the camp, cattle, etc. in their absence. When they had been gone sometime I thought a large herd of buffalo came on full gallop right amongst our horses and cattle, causing them to break their ropes and fly in every direction. The brethren seemed thunderstruck and did not know what to do. Seeing a small skiff in the river, I sprang into it, and a paddle lying in it, I commenced rowing in pursuit of the President. It seemed as though I literally flew through the water passing everything on the way like a railway carriage. In a few minutes I overtook the brethren in the flat boat, took the skiff and threw it on shore and to my astonishment I saw that the skiff was made only of barks and cracked all over, and it seemed impossible to put it in the water without sinking it. The paddle with which I had rowed proved to be a very large feather and I had another feather in my left hand with which I steered the skiff. When I got into the flat boat, I made known what had passed in the camp, but the brethren seemed no ways alarmed. I awoke and behold, it was all a dream. Dr. Richards is going to deposit a letter in a stick of wood prepared for the purpose near this place in such a manner that the next company will discover it. He fixed it on a long pole and being assisted by President Young and others raised it and fixed it firm in the ground. His distance from Winter Quarters three hundred and sixteen miles. At nine five the camp proceeded onward. After traveling two miles we crossed a small creek which Elder Kimball named Skunk creek, easily forded, though the ground was soft on the west side. About this time the brethren at the head of the camp discovered a strange horse alone on the prairie. Porter and Thomas Brown gave chase to try to catch it. Brother John Brown states that when the Mississippi company passed on the other side last season, one of the brethren lost a mare and two colts, and this is supposed to be the oldest of the two. When Brother Woolsey and Tippets came through from the battalion last winter they saw the same horse near here. We traveled till twelve five and finding a little better feed stopped for dinner having traveled a few rods over six miles. The last two miles was over very soft prairie and although the last year's grass has not been burned, the wheels cut through the sod frequently. At the creek four miles back, some of the brethren shot a buffalo which was brought into camp in the revenue cutter. The meat is said to be good and the fattest we have had. At two we continued our journey. About the same time Porter and Brown returned having failed to catch the horse. After traveling about half a mile we crossed a very bad slough, and beyond that for a mile the ground was wet and soft. The teams began to give out, and at half past four o'clock, the President ordered the wagons to strike for the timber which was a little out of our course, but necessary to favor the teams and obtain wood and water. We arrived near the timber and camped at four fifty, having traveled since my last guide post a little over nine and three-fourths miles, the last two miles the ground being dry and good traveling. Some of the hunters killed a deer and we had some venison for supper. Our course a little north of west. Light wind from northwest. The day warm and pleasant. We have a little better feed for cattle, and on the island plenty of brouse for horses, better timber than we have had for some time past. It appears plain that vast herds of buffalo have wintered here, but have mostly left and gone eastward sometime ago, and we have the full growth of this year's grass which is small indeed. The grass evidently springs later the farther west we travel, and nature seems to have taught the wild cattle this lesson, hence their eastward progress. There are some scattering herds of buffalo around, but not nearly so numerous as they were some thirty miles back. The face of the country here is indeed beautiful, the soil rich on the bottoms, the ragged bluffs on each side of the river have a splendid appearance, and at about ten miles distance, west of where we now are, they seem to circle around until they form a junction. It appears evident also, that we are above the junction of the north and south forks of the Platte, the north fork running nearly northwest and the south fork southwest. Brother Woolsey says these are the forks in reality, but are connected some miles higher up by a slough, and consequently the land between is set down by travelers as the main land rather than as an island.
The morning cold. Wind east; camp well. At 7:00 a.m. went with a number of the brethren who were going to dig some wolves out of a hole about a quarter of a mile from camp. They dug out four and brought them alive to camp. They are probably six or eight weeks old and about the size of an English hare, very vicious. At half past nine the camp moved onward over a very nice level, dry prairie for five miles. Amongst the timber on the island could be seen many small cedar trees. At the end of five miles, we had to pass over a small ridge of low, sandy bluffs, which extended to the river. After passing nearly over the bluffs we stopped half an hour to water the teams and eat a little dinner, then proceeded on three miles farther and passed over a creek of clear water, but this could not be very good in consequence of so many dead buffalo lying in it. We proceeded on half a mile, and finding tolerably good feed, stopped for the night, having traveled eight and half miles today. Weather fine, wind south and southeast; course a little west or northwest. We have seen few buffalo today, but there are signs of thousands having wintered in the neighborhood. The country looks beautiful, soil rich, only lacking timber. After the camp was formed, it being half a mile to water, the brethren dug two wells, and about four feet deep found plenty of good water. One of the wells is reported to run a pail full a minute. Brother Appleton Harmon is working at the machinery for the wagon to tell the distance we travel and expects to have it in operation tomorrow, which will save me the trouble of counting, as I have done, during the last four days. Took supper on some duck presented to Elder Kimball by George Billings.
Morning cool, weather fine. Brother Appleton Harmon has completed the machinery on the wagon so far that I shall only have to count the number of miles, instead of the revolution of the wagon wheel. We started at 9:10, the first mile pretty soft, the rest tolerably hard and very good traveling. We have passed over vast beds of salt, or rather dust with a salt taste. It looks something like dirty flour. Traveled eight miles in four hours and two minutes, and stopped at 12:48 to feed, nearly opposite two small islands. The feed tolerably good. Our course northwest. Considerable strong wind from southeast covering everything in the wagons with dust and sand. No timber on the bank of the river and but little on the islands. The hunters report that they have seen many dead buffalo between here and the bluff with the hides off and tongues taken out, a strong proof that Indians have been here very recently, as the flesh looks fresh and lately killed. The range of bluffs on each side the river extend much farther apart, and near the foot of the south range can be seen timber scattering along, which is an evidence that the south fork ranges in that direction, although some are sanguine that we have not yet arrived at the junction.
At half past three we moved on again and traveled four miles, camped at a quarter to six near a bunch of small islands, and a kind of bayou projecting from the river. Our course this afternoon a little south of west, having come around a considerable bend in the river. The land good and good traveling. Wind southeast. Several of the brethren caught a number of small fish in the bayou or lake. The feed here is rather scanty. Heavy clouds are rising in the west and northwest, and a fair prospect for some rain which is much needed. It is now certain that we are about fourteen and a half miles above the junction of the north and south forks of the Platte, and although we have to make a new road all the way, we find no obstacles so far. Brother Woodruff reports that he has been beyond the bluffs north of the camp and saw upwards of 200 wickeups where the Indians have camped very recently.
He found a cured buffalo skin and some pieces of other skins also. The hunters killed a two year old buffalo and brought it to camp. Brother Orson Pratt reports that when we were five and a half miles back, we were in latitude 41° 9' 44".
This morning cold and cloudy, cold enough for overcoats and buffalo robes. The buffalo which was killed yesterday was cut up and divided this morning amongst the companies of tens. Some feelings are manifest this morning between Brothers Thomas Tanner and Aaron Farr on account of the former taking the latter prisoner and putting him under a guard part of the night. Perhaps Aaron was a little out of order in conversing loud after the horn blew for prayers, but I think Brother Tanner's angry spirit more blameable. At 9:00 we moved onward nearly a west course four miles and at 11:00 stopped to feed teams at a spot which is a little better than we generally have. The wind strong from north and northeast.
At half past twelve we proceeded on again and traveled till four o'clock, distance six and three quarters miles. At this distance we arrived at a stream about six rods wide which appears to come from the northeast, the water in appearance like the Platte, the bottom of the river quick sand. Water in the middle about two feet deep; at the sides quite shoal. It appears that travelers have never discovered this stream for it is not noticed in any works that we have seen. We crossed it without difficulty and camped on its banks. The weather cloudy and very cold, with a strong north wind. Presidents Young and Kimball rode ahead as usual to look out the road. They report that the bluffs half a mile west come clear to the river and are considerably high. They found several ranges of them and finally found a valley running between some of the ranges through which we can pass by going about a mile around from our course. This stream according to measurement, twenty-five and one quarter miles above the junction of the two forks and 341 miles from Winter Quarters, by estimation. President Young named it the North Bluff Fork. A while before we arrived here four of the brethren went to chase a few buffalo which were lying down at the foot of the bluffs, but they did not get any. Presidents Young and Kimball saw a very large rattlesnake near the river. Brother Kimball says the largest he ever saw in his life. I saw a small green snake today, very pretty, the back light green and the belly a pale yellow. Presidents Young and Kimball suffered severely with cold while riding over the bluffs to look for a road. Had to use buffalo dung for cooking, there being no timber.
The morning cloudy and very cold. In the west could occasionally be seen streaks of lightning and distant thunder heard. At 8:00 a.m. the dark clouds having approached nearer, it commenced raining pretty hard, accompanied by lightning and thunder. The President ordered the horses got up just before the rain commenced; and after the storm ceased, we started onward at a quarter past ten. After traveling about a mile we passed among and around the high bluffs, our course lying nearly in a north direction for some time, then turning south and on again approaching the river, nearly southeast. When within about three quarters of a mile from the river, we stopped to feed at twenty minutes to two, having traveled six and a quarter miles. We have got on the level bottom again and are probably not more than three miles in a direct line from where we started this morning. Presidents Young and Kimball went forward to point out the route, which is very good to travel, although considerably uneven. Brother Higbee killed an antelope and wounded another which made its escape while he was loading his rifle. We have better feed here than we have had for some time. We had a little more rain just as we came to a halt. We have not had much wind this morning but it is now increasing from the north. It is somewhat warmer than this morning. The atmosphere cloudy and looks as if we might have more rain. The land between the two forks for about 25 miles is perfectly flat and very level without timber.
The bluffs there rise suddenly, apparently in a line from fork to fork. There are many buffalo back in the valleys between the bluffs, and although there is no sign of the prairie having been burned, it is evident the buffalo have kept it eaten clean off, but have moved back and east, probably since the Indians have been hunting them. Some of the brethren have discovered fresh tracks where the Indians have gone up this north stream, evidently very lately. But we are satisfied the Lord hears the prayers of his servants and sends them out of the way before we come up to them. At three o'clock we proceeded on our journey, keeping above the lower prairie, which appeared soft and swampy. Our road was very uneven. We went two and a half miles and at half past four stopped to learn the report of those gone ahead to look out the road. There is another high range of bluffs about half a mile west of us, extending to the river. Elder Kimball went across the several ranges of bluffs to the west side, and hunted for a road in various directions, but there did not appear to be any possibility of finding a road between the bluffs, without going many miles around. President Young and he concluded it would be best to camp where the wagons are and in the morning cross right over the bluffs by doubling teams. Accordingly the encampment was formed about five-thirty, the train having traveled eight and three quarters miles today. Our course this afternoon nearly west, wind southeast. The feed for our teams grows much better, and on one of these high sandy bluffs I saw a large bed of flowers, not unlike the violet, and very rich. The sand on the bluffs in some places looks like large drifts of snow, and in other places seems to have deep chasms as if wasted by heavy rains. The atmosphere is still cloudy but not so cold as it has been. The hunters have killed two buffalo, three antelope and one badger during the day, which will be very acceptable. It was dark when the hunters returned to give the information. The revenue cutter was sent after the meat which was reported to be a mile and a half distant. It was late when they returned. There was an alarm made by the guard in the night supposing the Indians were near. The camp were aroused to secure their horses, but we had no further trouble about them.
I discovered that Brother Appleton Harmon is trying to have it understood that he invented the machinery to tell the distance we travel, which makes me think less of him than I formerly did. He is not the inventor of it by a long way, but he has made the machinery, after being told how to do it. What little souls work.
This morning is very cloudy and very cold, more like a January morning than a May morning. The wind blows strong from the northeast. The brethren who killed the buffalo did not bring it to camp last night, but put it in the boat and left it till morning. About half past seven they brought it in and divided it to the captains of ten. At eight o'clock it commenced raining again but abated a little before nine. At nine o'clock we commenced moving and after traveling three-quarters of a mile began to ascend the sandy bluffs. It commenced raining again and it looks like rain for all day. It is very cold, the wind continues strong. The road was much of a zig zag over the bluffs, but only about a mile before we descended to the bottom. We traveled a piece farther and at half past ten o'clock it was considered best to turn out the teams until it ceases raining, after traveling two and a quarter miles. We found it unnecessary to double teams while crossing the bluffs and we got over without difficulty, much better than we had anticipated. About noon it again ceased raining and the signal was given to harness up teams. At half past twelve we proceeded and traveled till a quarter to three, distance four and a half miles, then formed the encampment in a circle about a quarter of a mile from the river. The road has been level but soft and wet, however not bad traveling. The bluffs are about half a mile to the north and several herds of buffalo grazing on them. Some of the hunters are gone to try and get some meat. The wind still keeps up, and is cold, damp and uncomfortable. The feed appears better here than we have had for some days, and the cattle soon fill themselves which is a comfort and blessing to the camp. Some of the brethren have been lucky enough to pick up a few sticks and dead wood but our chief dependence for fuel is dry buffalo dung which abounds everywhere, but the rain has injured it some for burning. About two miles back we passed a place where the Indians have lately camped during their hunt. It is plain that whole families are amongst their number as the foot prints and moccasins of children have several times been seen. They evidently make use of the buffalo dung for fuel, and for seats, they dig up sods and lay them in a circle around their fire which is in the center. We have passed a number of these little temporary camping spots this afternoon. The reason why we did not travel farther was that Elder Kimball being gone ahead to look out the road, etc., he found as he came near the next bluffs that the feed is all eaten off by the numerous herds of buffalo and found also, that we shall have to travel over the bluffs and they appear wide and would be impossible for the teams to get over them tonight, hence the necessity of stopping here where we have good feed. The soil on this prairie looks good and rich but there is no timber. In fact there is none in sight, except a small grove on the other side the river about two miles west of the camp. Late at night Porter Rockwell came in and reported that he killed a buffalo. The cutter was sent for it to bring it to camp. Our course this afternoon nearly west.
Morning fine, but chilly and cold. Wind north. Eric Glines killed an antelope near the camp which was cut up and distributed. Soon after breakfast, President Young, Elders Kimball, Woodruff and Benson went on horseback to look out the best road over the bluffs. They returned at half past twelve and reported that we can pass through a valley between and around the bluffs, which will be about four miles across them. About 5:00 p.m. several buffalo were seen making their way from the bluffs towards our horses, some of which were very near them. Brother Eric Glines started out with the intention of driving the buffalo away, and bringing the horses nearer camp. When he got near, the buffalo did not seem much disposed to move and he shot at one of them and wounded him. He moved a little farther and Brother Glines followed him and shot three times more at him. The buffalo then ran about forty rods, fell, and soon expired. I went to look at him. He is a large one, judged to weigh about 700 pounds, and in pretty good order. I left the brethren skinning him and returned to camp where a meeting had been called at 5:00 p.m., and the brethren addressed by Elders Richards, Markham, Rockwood and Kimball, chiefly on the subject of obeying counsel, and Elder Kimball remarked in regard to hunting on the Sabbath. He would not do it even in case of necessity, but he did not feel disposed to find fault with the brethren. The laws and regulations for the camp of April 18th were then read by Brother Bullock and the meeting dismissed. About noon today Brother Appleton Harmon completed the machinery on the wagon called a "roadometer" by adding a wheel to revolve once in ten miles, showing each mile and also each quarter mile we travel, and then casing the whole over so as to secure it from the weather. We are now prepared to tell accurately, the distance we travel from day to day which will supersede the idea of guessing, and be a satisfaction not only to this camp, but to all who hereafter travel this way. I have prepared another board to put up here on which the distance from Winter Quarters is marked at 356¾ miles. I have also written on it that the last seventy miles are measured, and we shall continue to measure and put up guide posts as often as circumstances will permit through the journey. The whole machinery consists of a shaft about 18 inches long placed on gudgeons, one in the axle tree of the wagon, near which are six arms placed at equal distances around it, and in which a cog works which is fastened on the hub of the wagon wheel, turning the shaft once round at every six revolutions of the wagon wheel. The upper gudgeon plays in a piece of wood nailed to the wagon box, and near this gudgeon on the shaft a screw is cut. The shaft lays at an angle of about forty-five degrees. In this screw, a wheel of sixty cogs works on an axle fixed in the side of the wagon, and which makes one revolution each mile. In the shaft on which this wheel runs, four cogs are cut on the fore part which plays in another wheel of forty cogs which shows the miles and quarters to ten miles. The whole is cased over and occupies a space of about 18 inches long, 15 inches high and 3 inches thick.
After the meeting was dismissed, the cutter was sent to fetch the meat in, killed by Brother Glines. They soon returned and the meat was distributed as usual. Presidents Young and Kimball have walked out together towards the bluffs. After supper Elder Whipple made me a present of a half a candle made from buffalo tallow, by the light of which I continue this journal. Although, as may be expected, the buffalo are generally poorer at this season of the year, yet Brother Whipple has obtained sufficient to make two candles from his portion of meat received yesterday morning. The candle burns very clear and pleasant. The tallow smells sweet and rich. I imagine it has a more pleasant smell than the tallow of domestic cattle.
The morning very cold and chilly, wind northwest. Dr. Richards left another letter on the camp ground for the benefit of the next company. The letter is secured from the weather by a wooden case, and placed so that the brethren can hardly miss finding it.
We started on our journey at 8:13 a.m. After traveling a mile and a half, we arrived at the foot of another range of bluffs which extend to the river, and began to ascend about a quarter of a mile north from the river, the road also turning to the north. A quarter of a mile farther, we crossed a stream of spring water about three feet wide. The road for a little distance on both sides the stream is rough, sandy and crooked. We then turned westward, and passed over a number of bluffs as there was no chance to go around them without going miles out of our course. On these sandy bluffs, there are very many small lizards about four or five inches long from nose to the end of the tail, which is an inch and a half long. The body looks short and chunky and is of a light grey color with two rows of dark brown spots on each side of the body which make it appear striped. The head is shaped something like the head of a snake. They appear perfectly harmless and are pretty in appearance. After traveling two and a quarter miles beyond the last mentioned stream, we arrived at the west foot of the bluffs. The last part of the road very sandy and there are several very steep places of descent. However all the teams got safely over without difficulty. At the west foot of the bluffs, there appears more grass than anywhere we have yet been, although the buffalo have eaten it off considerably. Within a quarter of a mile from the bluffs, we crossed two small streams of spring water and at a mile from the foot of the bluffs, we crossed a stream of spring water about four feet wide with a very rapid current. The whole of this bottom seems full of springs and we have to keep near the bluffs to make a good road to travel, and in fact, we find it more or less soft and springy even close to the bluffs. A mile and a quarter west of the last mentioned spring is another small stream of very clear spring water. The others are rather muddy by running over sandy land. They all appear to have their rise in the bluffs a short distance from our road. At 11:35 we stopped to feed having traveled this morning, six and three quarters miles. Our course west, weather fine, warm, and little wind. While we were resting, one of President Young's horses (in care of Phineas) mired down in a soft slough. A number of men soon collected and with a rope dragged it out, washed and rubbed it, and all was well again. Latitude 41° 12' 50".
At two o'clock, we proceeded onward. After traveling a half a mile, we arrived at a very shoal stream of clear water about thirty feet wide but not over three inches deep in the channel which is about three feet wide. We forded it very easily and then passed over a short range of low sandy bluffs about a quarter of a mile wide and then entered on level prairie again, but we found it very soft and springy. Within two and a half miles from the last mentioned stream we passed two others, one very small, the other about four feet wide. They both doubtless rise from springs at the foot of the bluffs. About ten minutes after three o'clock, word arrived that a buffalo was killed by the hunters about a mile from the road. Two men were sent to skin and dress it. About the same time the revenue cutter arrived with two more buffalo, one said to have been killed by Luke Johnson and the other by John Brown, also an antelope killed by Amasa Lyman. The wagons halted at a quarter to four, took the meat out of the boat, which immediately returned to fetch the other buffalo which was killed by Porter Rockwell. The meat was cut in quarters and put into the wagons and at half past four o'clock we again moved onward and traveled till 5:50 p.m. and camped on a nice dry bottom prairie where the grass is shorter than that we have passed all day. We traveled this afternoon six miles and during the day twelve and three quarters, about a west course. We are some distance from water but several wells were soon dug and good water obtained at about four feet deep. Soon after we camped the boat came in with the other buffalo and the meat was all distributed equally around the camp, but it appears that some have already got more than they need and feel unwilling to take a good forequarter. The bluffs on the opposite side the river project to the river for some distance opposite this place. Latitude 41° 13' 20".
The morning fine and very pleasant. At seven o'clock the President called the captains of tens to his wagons and gave them a pretty severe lecture. He referred to some who had left meat on the ground and would not use it because it was not hind quarter. Some would murmur because a fore quarter of meat was alloted to them, etc., which is not right, for God has given us a commandment that we should not waste meat, nor take life unless it is needful, but he can see a disposition in this camp to slaughter everything before them, yea if all the buffalo and game there is on our route were brought together to the camp, there are some who would never cease until they had destroyed the whole. Some men will shoot as much as thirty times at a rabbit if they did not kill it, and are continually wasting their ammunition, but when they have used all they have got, they may have the pleasure of carrying their empty guns to the mountains and back, for he will not furnish them. We have now meat enough to last some time if we will take proper care of it. As to the horsemen, there are none with the exception of Brothers Kimball, Woodruff and Benson, that ever take the trouble to look out a good road for the wagons but all they seem to care about is to wait till their breakfast is cooked for them, and when they have eaten it, they mount their horses and scatter away, and if an antelope comes across the track, the whole of us must be stopped perhaps half an hour while they try to creep up near enough to kill it, but when we come to a bad place on the route, all the interest they have is to get across the best they can and leave myself and one or two others to pick out a crossing place and guide the camp all the time. Such things are not right, and he wants them to cease and all take an interest in the welfare of the camp, be united, and receive the meat as a blessing from God and not as a stink offering from the devil. It is not necessary to preach to the elders in this camp, they know what is right as well as he does, and he will not preach to them all the time. Let the captains do the best they know how and teach their men to do likewise. The meeting dispersed, the meat was taken care of and at a quarter past eight we started out again, and traveled three and a quarter miles nearly a west course over a very hard prairie and good traveling and then arrived at a nice stream, Rattlesnake creek, about twenty or twenty-five feet wide, a foot or 18 inches deep and a very strong current. This stream must take its rise some distance back in the bluffs or else is supplied from many strong springs, for there is much water comes down it. We traveled on from this near the bank of the river about a northwest course over tolerably rough land till 11:10 and then stopped to feed having come six and a half miles this morning, the weather very hot. Opposite the stream last mentioned on the south side the river, are several pine groves, or rather cedar groves. There is some little pine wood, such as knots and dead branches that can be picked up on the banks of the river. It has floated from above. This, with a little buffalo chips, makes a good fire for cooking. Latitude noon 41° 3' 44". Rattlesnake creek was so named from the following incident: President Young, as he rode up to the banks of the creek discovered that his horse stepped within a foot of a very large rattlesnake. He turned his horse away without harming it. Soon afterward, one of the brethren came up on foot and stepped within two feet and a half of it. It immediately coiled up and sprang at him and would have struck him (as it sprang 2½ feet) had he not jumped to one side. He took his rifle and shot the snake dead.
The head of Cedar Bluffs, as named by Fremont, is three miles west of where we camped last night. At 1:05 p.m. we continued our journey. Our route lay near the banks of the river which seems narrower here. After traveling three and a half miles, we crossed a stream about six feet wide, and three quarters of a mile farther another stream of tolerably deep, clear water about five feet wide. This stream is very crooked and seems to run from the bluffs to the river in a perfect serpentine or zig zag direction. Soon after starting this afternoon, we discovered some dog towns, the grass eaten perfectly bare all around. The feed is growing worse again, evidently eaten up by the buffalo. At noon, a heavy black cloud arose in the west and we had a little rain, accompanied by lightning and distant thunder. After passing the last mentioned creek about a mile, we had to change our course to nearly northwest on account of a bend in the river. We traveled till 5:30 and formed our encampment on the west bank of a running stream about eight feet wide and one foot deep which is five miles from the crooked creek, making our afternoon's travel nine and a quarter miles and the day's travel fifteen and three quarters. The bluffs and the river here are about a quarter of a mile apart, the river very wide, feed poor, plenty of float wood, pine and cedar, for fuel. The weather calm and warm, though cloudy. After encampment was formed, went with Elder Orson Pratt to Dr. Richards' wagon to enter into arrangements for making a map of our route. The doctor wants me to do it, assisted by Elder Pratt's observations. He handed me Fremont's map, and I retired to my wagon to commence operations, but soon found that the map does not agree with my scale nor Elder Pratt's calculations. I then proposed to Elder Pratt to wait until we get through the journey and take all the necessary data and then make a new one instead of making our route on Fremont's. The subject is left here till morning. After supper I took my candle and finished this day's journal. At dark Colonel Markham called the camp together to tell the brethren their duty in regard to traveling, guarding teams, and standing guard at nights. The old laws of April 18th were talked over and additional by-laws added, but not being present I did not hear them, neither can I learn anything from those who were present, for they all say that there were so many little matters touched upon, and so many resolutions passed that they remembered only one--and that is, when any man goes out of the sound of the horn to fetch in his team, and sees another man's horse or mule or ox, a little beyond or near his, he shall drive it also to camp, and if he neglect to do so, he shall be sent back to do it even if it requires an escort to make him. About seven o'clock the wind shifted around to the north and blew strong and cold.
It has rained a little most of the night and still looks gloomy, cloudy and like for a rainy day. Inasmuch as the feed is not good here, it was thought best to move on before breakfast a few miles and seek better feed. We started out at 5:05, the second division having the right to lead, but a part of the first division being ready a little before all the second were ready, they rushed on their teams, drove fast and those of the second division behind had to leave the track and run their teams to take their places. We traveled two and three quarters miles, our course eleven and one fourth degrees north of west, and then crossed a stream three feet wide, and one quarter of a mile farther crossed another four feet wide. Our route lay within about one quarter of a mile from the bluffs and a mile from the river which takes a bend south from where we camped last night and runs close to the bluffs on the south side. We then turned our course to a little west of northwest as the river bends again to the bluffs on this side, and traveled a quarter of a mile farther and halted for breakfast at 6:20, having traveled three and a quarter miles. The main body of the camp have stopped a quarter of a mile back, being three miles from where we started this morning. The road is mostly sandy, tall grass of last year's growth. The two streams we passed seem to form many ponds of clear water extending at short distances from each other from the bluffs to the river. Elder Kimball has been ahead over the bluffs to look out the road. It continues to rain a little occasionally with light north wind. Elder Kimball found that the bluffs project entirely to the river and are very sandy, but we can cross them without going out of our course. At twenty minutes to nine, we proceeded onward a little and then waited till the rest of the wagons came up. At the distance of nearly a mile and a half, we crossed a stream about twenty feet wide, not very deep, neither very good to cross, and exactly at the distance of a mile and a half, we arrived at the foot of the bluffs and began to ascend without doubling teams. Some of the teams stuck by, but by the assistance of the extra men, they all got up. The bluffs are very high, sandy and rough, and the sand cuts down considerably, making it heavy on teams. These bluffs are three quarters of a mile from the east foot to the west foot following our trail which is nearly straight. About 200 yards from the west foot of the bluffs, we crossed another stream five feet wide. It has rained heavily all the time since we started after breakfast and continues. Consequently at half past ten the camp formed into platoons and then halted to wait for more favorable weather, having traveled six miles today over the worst road we have had from Winter Quarters, rendered worse, doubtless, by the heavy rains. About half past two the weather looked a little more favorable and orders were given to move on. We started at five minutes to three, about which time it again rained heavily. We traveled two miles and then formed our encampment in a semi-circle on the banks of the river, having traveled two miles and through the day, eight miles. The first mile this evening was over very soft prairie, the last hard and good. The rain still continues to pour down heavily and this has been the most uncomfortable day we have had and the hardest on our teams. The brethren, however, feel well and cheerful. The ox teams are improving in their condition, but the horses do not stand it as well. The stream at the east foot of the last mentioned bluffs was named Wolf creek from the following circumstance: When Elder Kimball went ahead this morning to search out a road, he went up the creek about a mile and around over the bluffs to find, if possible, a better road than the one close to the river. While he was searching, about a mile north from the river he went down into a deep hollow surrounded by high bluffs and as he was riding along at the bottom, he turned his head to the left and saw two very large wolves at about five rods distance gazing at him. One of them he said was nearly as large as a two year old steer. When he saw these he looked around on the other side and saw several others about the same distance from him, very large ones, and all gazing fiercely at him. This startled him considerably, and more especially when he reflected that he had no arms. He made a noise to try to scare them away but they still stood, and he concluded to move away as soon as he could. They did not follow him and he saw a dead carcass near, which satisfied him that he had interrupted their repast. On mentioning this circumstance to President Young, they named the creek "Wolf Creek." He traveled back and forth over ten miles searching out a road before breakfast. He also went out again afterwards and got badly wet. He then concluded to change his clothing and remain in his wagon. The evening is very cool and cloudy with wind from the northeast. The rain had ceased about six o'clock, but it still looks stormy.
The morning fair, but cloudy, light wind from northwest and cold. At 7:45 we started out again but had not traveled over a quarter of a mile before the roadometer gave way on account of the rain yesterday having caused the wood to swell and stick fast. One of the cogs in the small wheel broke. We stopped about a half an hour and Appleton Harmon took it to pieces and put it up again without the small wheel. I had to count each mile after this. Three quarters of a mile from where we camped, we crossed a creek eight feet wide and two and a half feet deep. We then changed our course to about southwest a mile or so following the banks of the river, as the ground was wet and swampy nearer the bluffs. The river then winds around about three miles in a bend and then strikes a little north of west. The bluffs on the north appear to be about two miles from the river. We traveled till 11:15 and then halted to feed, having traveled seven and three quarters miles over tolerably good road, though at the commencement somewhat soft. On the opposite side the river, the bluffs project near its banks. They are rocky and almost perpendicular, beautified for miles by groves of cedar. Opposite to where we are halted, we can see a ravine running up the bluffs and at the foot, a flat bottom of about fifteen acres. At the farther side of this bottom is a grove of trees not yet in leaf. Brother Brown thinks they are ash and that the place is what is called Ash Hollow and on Fremont's map, Ash Creek. We all felt anxious to ascertain the fact whether this is Ash Hollow or not, for if it is, the Oregon trail strikes the river at this place, and if it can be ascertained that such is the fact, we then have a better privilege of testing Fremont's distances to Laramie. We have already discovered that his map is not altogether correct in several respects, and particularly in showing the windings of the river and the distance of the bluffs from it. I suggested the propriety of some persons going over in the boat and Brother John Brown suggested it to President Young. The boat was soon hauled by the brethren to the river, and Orson Pratt, Amasa Lyman, Luke Johnson and John Brown started to row over, but the current was so exceedingly strong the oars had no effect. John Brown then jumped into the river which was about two and a half feet deep and dragged the boat over, the others assisting with the oars. After some hard labor they arrived on the opposite shore and went to the hollow. They soon found the Oregon trail and ascertained that this is Ash Hollow, Brother Brown having traveled on that road to near Laramie last season with the Mississippi company and knew the place perfectly well. They gathered some branches of wild cherry in full bloom, rambled over the place a little while and then returned to camp. About the same time the camp prepared to pursue their journey. The brethren arrived and made their report, and at 1:45 p.m. we proceeded onward. From the appearance of the bluffs ahead, our course this afternoon will be west and northwest. A light breeze from northwest. Soon after we started, one of the brethren killed a large rattlesnake within a rod of the road made by the wagons and on the side where the cows travel. He killed it to prevent its injuring the cows and threw it away from the road. In the river one and a quarter miles above Ash Hollow, there are several small islands on which grow many trees of cedar. One of these islands is perfectly green over with cedar and looks beautiful. The bluffs also on the south side the river continue to be lined with cedar apparently for two miles yet and are very high and almost perpendicular, running pretty close to the river. On this side the river, the bluffs seem to bear farther to the north, being apparently about three miles from the river, and a few miles farther west they are as much as five miles from the river. After traveling three and a quarter miles from the noon stop, we crossed a tributary stream running into the Platte, in a very crooked direction, being from four to eight rods wide and two and a half feet deep most of the way across, the bottom quick sand, current rapid and water of sandy color like the Platte. Some had to double teams to get over, but all got over safely. We proceeded on about four miles farther and found that the river bends considerably to the north. The bluffs also bend to the south, so that the low bluffs in front almost reach the banks only barely leaving room for a road. We went a little farther and camped for the night at half past five, having traveled this afternoon eight miles, making fifteen and three quarters miles during the day. Elder Kimball and several others went forward on horses to pick out our road as usual. I have seen several kinds of herbs growing today which appear new to me. One looks like penny royal, smells almost like it, but tastes hot and like the oil of cloves. Elder Kimball and others saw a very large wolf about half a mile west, and he appeared to be following them to camp. They turned and rode up to him and round him, struck their pistols at him, but they did not go off, being damp. He finally made his escape. The large stream we crossed this afternoon is named Castle Creek from the bluffs on the opposite side which much resemble the rock on which Lancaster Castle is built. The bluffs are named Castle Bluffs. We had a light shower this afternoon, but the evening is fine though very cool.
The morning very fine and pleasant though tolerably cold. I put up a guide board at this place with the following inscriptions on it: "From Winter Quarters 409 miles. From the junction of the North and South Forks, 93¼ miles. From Cedar Bluffs, south side the river, 36½ miles. Ash Hollow, south side the river, 8 miles. Camp of Pioneers May 21, 1847. According to Fremont, this place is 132 miles from Laramie. N. B. The bluffs opposite are named Castle Bluffs." At 7:35 we continued our journey. We found the prairie tolerably wet, many ponds of water standing which must have been caused by a heavy fall of rain, much more heavy than we had back. However, it was not very bad traveling. We made a pretty straight road this morning at about the distance of a mile from the river. The bluffs on the north appear to be five miles or over from our road. At 11:15 we halted for dinner, having traveled nearly seven and three quarters miles, course north of northwest, very warm and no wind. Presidents Young and Kimball rode forward to pick the road, and near this place they saw a nest of wolves, caught and killed two with sticks. Four or five others escaped to their hole. At half past one we proceeded onward and found the prairie wet, and grass high of last year's growth. After traveling four and three quarters miles we arrived at a range of low bluffs projecting to the river, which at this place bends to the north. There is, however, bottom of about a rod wide between the bluffs and the river, but as it is wet and soft, it was preferred to cross over the bluffs by bending a little more to the north. We traveled on the bluffs a little over a quarter of a mile and then turned on the bottom again. The bluffs are low and almost as level as the bottom. After we crossed the bluffs we found the road better. We saw about a mile this side of the foot of the bluffs, a very large bone almost petrified into stone. Most of the brethren believe it to be the shoulder bone of a mammoth, and is very large indeed. About this time a badger was brought to the wagons which Brother Woodruff had killed. As I was walking along and looking over the river, I heard a rattlesnake, and looking down saw that I had stepped within a foot of it. It rattled hard but seemed to make away. We threw it away from the track without killing it. At five o'clock Elder Kimball rode up and stopped the forward teams till the last ones got nearer saying that some Indians had come down from the bluffs to the brethren ahead. When the rest of the wagons came up we moved on a quarter of a mile farther and at half past five formed our encampment in a circle with the wagons close together as possible, having traveled seven and three quarters miles this afternoon, making fifteen and a half through the day. As the camp was forming the two Indians came nearer, being a man and his squaw. They represented by signs that they were Sioux and that a party of them are now on the bluffs north of us and not far distant. By the aid of glasses we could see several on the bluffs with their ponies, evidently watching our movements. This man was hunting when first seen and appeared afraid when he saw the brethren. The squaw fled for the bluffs as fast as her horse could go, but by signs made to them they gathered courage and came up. President Young gave orders not to bring them into camp, and they soon rode off to the bluffs. The man has got a good cloth coat on and appears well dressed. The horses they rode are said to be work horses which makes us suspect they have stolen them from travelers. The day has been very warm and some of the teams gave out. We can see some timber on the bluffs on the other side of the river some miles ahead which is the first timber we have seen for more than a week, except some small cedar and the timber in Ash Hollow, all on the south side the river. We are nearly a mile from water and the brethren have to dig wells to obtain a supply for cooking. The feed here is very poor, not much but old grass. Our course this afternoon has been a little north of west. Lorenzo Young shot two very large ducks with one ball and brought them to camp. Elder Kimball proposed tonight that I should leave a number of pages for so much of his journal as I am behind in copying and start from the present and keep it up daily. He furnished me a candle and I wrote the journal of this day's travel by candle light in his journal, leaving fifty-six pages blank. The evening was very fine and pleasant. The latitude at noon halt 41° 24' 5".
Morning beautiful, no wind and warm. We have not been disturbed by the Indians; all is peace in the camp. At eight o'clock we continued our journey, making a more crooked road than usual, having to bend south to near the banks of the river. The prairie somewhat soft and a little uneven. After traveling five and a half miles we crossed a very shoal creek about twenty feet wide. The bluffs and river about a mile apart, but on the other side, the bluffs recede two miles back from the river and have lost their craggy and steep appearance, the ascent being gradual, while on this side they begin to be rocky, cragged and almost perpendicular though not very high. We traveled till half past eleven and then halted for noon, having traveled seven and a quarter miles, the road on this side the creek being better. Our course about west of northwest with a light breeze from the east. Elder Kimball and others ahead as usual. The creek above mentioned was named Crab Creek because some of the brethren saw a very large crab in it. A mile east of this creek is a dry creek, down which, from appearances, a heavy stream runs at some seasons of the year, perhaps during heavy storms. The water running from the bluffs swells it to a considerable height and it is certain there are tremendous storms here. A while after we halted, Porter Rockwell came in and said he had been on the high bluff about a mile northwest of us and had seen the rock called Chimney Rock which appeared a long distance off. We have been in hopes to come in sight of it today and feel anxious in order to ascertain more certainly the correctness of Fremont's distance. In order to satisfy myself, although my feet were blistered and very sore, I determined to take my telescope and go on the bluff to ascertain for myself whether the noted rock could be seen or not. At half past twelve I started out alone. I found the distance to the foot of the bluff a good mile, the ascent gradual. From the foot the bluff looks very high and rough, many huge rocks having broken from the summit from time to time and rolled down a long distance. I found the ascent very steep and lengthy in comparison to its appearance from camp. When I arrived on the top I found a nice slightly arched surface of about a quarter of an acre in extent, but barren and very little grass on it. Huge comparatively smooth rocks peeped through the surface on one of which I wrote with red chalk: "Wm. Clayton. May 22, 1847." On the highest point I sat down and took a view of the surrounding country which is magnificent indeed. On the south at the distance of two miles from the river, there is a range of cedar trees on the bluffs which very much resemble some of the parks and seats of gentry in England. East I could see where we camped last night, the high grass still burning. Northeast, north, and northwest, alternately, appeared high swelling bluffs and valleys as far as the eye could see or the glass magnify. West, the course of the Platte for ten or fifteen miles and at about four or five miles distance, a large bend to the north brings it in contact with the bluffs on this side. At the distance, I should judge of about twenty miles, I could see Chimney Rock very plainly with the naked eye, which from here very much resembles the large factory chimneys in England, although I could not see the form of its base. The rock lay about due west from here. After gratifying my curiosity, and seeing the men collecting their teams for a march, I descended on the west side of the bluff. The descent at this point looks more alarming than on the other. The side being very steep and all along huge rocks standing so critically, that to all appearance, a waft of wind would precipitate them to the prairie below with tremendous force. In one place in particular, a ponderous mass of rock appears to hang from the edge of the bluff without any visible means of being retained in its position, and by gazing at it a little while, it is easy to imagine you can see it move and ready to overwhelm you instantly. At a little distance from the base of the bluff, I turned to gaze on the romantic scenery above and was struck at the appearance of a large rock projecting from one corner, which very much resembled a frog's head of immense size with its mouth part open. The thought was, those bluffs ought to be named and what name more appropriate than Frog's Head Bluffs. After this reflection, I walked on to where I thought the wagons would come which started out at half past one. After traveling three and a quarter miles we crossed a dry creek about six rods wide, and a quarter of a mile farther, another about five feet wide and a half a mile farther, still another about six rods wide on an average. These all appear to be the sources of heavy streams of water at some seasons of the year. Soon as we crossed this last one, I saw Elder Kimball wave his hat for the wagons to turn off to the north in order to cross the bluffs which struck the river a little farther. But a little to the west was a very high ridge and I concluded to walk on to it. Found it to be a perfect ridge of gravel, very high and rounding on the top, not more than four or five feet wide and from north to south about 150 feet long. Elder Pratt names this Cobble Hills, the gravel or cobbles varying in size of from fifty pounds in weight to the smallest pebble. At the north foot of this hill is what might be named a clay bank, being composed of a light colored kind of sandy clay and forms a kind of large table. A little distance farther, we crossed another dry creek about eight rods wide and then ascended the bluffs. The ascent is pretty steep for nearly half a mile, but hard and not difficult to travel. The wagon had to wind about some to keep around the foot of the bluffs, crossing the dry creek three times before we emerged from the bluffs to the banks of the river. We crossed another dry creek pretty steep on each side and then found ourselves once more on the prairie bottom. The bluffs are two and a quarter miles from the east to the west foot following our trail. The wind has blown from the southeast all day until lately, when a dead calm has succeeded. In the west a heavy thunder cloud has been gathering for two hours and vivid streaks of lightning observed in the distance. At twenty minutes to five the wind struck suddenly from the northwest, the blackest part of the cloud then lying in that direction. We had a few drops of rain only. Then it seemed to turn off to the east. The scenery after this was indeed sublime, the sun peering out from under the heavy clouds reflecting long rays upwards which were imitated in the east. The romantic bluffs on the north and the lightning playing in the southeast all tended to fill my mind with pleasant reflections, on the goodness and majesty of the Creator and Governor of the universe, and the beauty of the works of his hands. At 5:45 we formed our encampment in a circle within a quarter of a mile of the banks of the river, having traveled this afternoon, eight and a quarter miles and through the day fifteen and a half, making the distance from Winter Quarters 440 miles in five weeks and three and a half days. The feed on the lower bench of the prairie is tolerably good, while the higher land is quite bare. We have noticed today a great many petrified bones, some very large. All are turned into solid, hard stone, which proves that the atmosphere is pure and the country would doubtless be healthy, but is not adapted for farming purposes on account of the poor sandy soil and no timber at all on this side the river. I have noticed a variety of shrubs, plants and flowers all new to me today, many of which have a very pleasant smell and in some places the air appears impregnated with the rich odors arising from them. Among the rest are numerous beds of the southern wood. There are also vast beds of flinty pebbles of various colors, some as white as alabaster. About 6:30 I observed a group of brethren standing together inside the camp. I went up and saw a young eagle which had been taken out of its nest on one of these high bluffs by George R. Grant and Orson Whitney. Although it is very young and its feathers have scarcely commenced growing, it measures from the tips of its wings when stretched, forty-six inches. Its head is nearly the size of my fist and looks very ferocious. After this I went with John Pack and Horace Whitney to the bluffs. On our way we saw a large wolf about as large as the largest dog in camp. He was within a quarter of a mile from camp. After traveling about a mile we arrived at the foot of a stupendous mass of rocks almost perpendicular, with only one place where it was possible to ascend. We went up with difficulty and by using our hands and knees, gained the top. We had to walk over a little space which was only about three feet wide and on the east side a perpendicular fall of about sixty feet. Although from the camp this peak looks only large enough for a man to stand upon we found it large enough to seat comfortably about twenty persons. The top is composed of large rocks and very uneven. The prairie below looks a long distance under foot from this peak. Descending we viewed the surrounding scenery which looks more like the ruins of an ancient city with its castles, towers, fortifications, etc., on all sides, and a dry stream coming through the center. We proceeded to the next high rock and found it very difficult of ascent. The top is nearly level and very pleasant. We discovered several other varieties of shrubbery, all smelling pleasant and strong. We saw that a horse has sometime stood on the top, but how he got there, we could not easily determine. At the east end there is a cedar tree flat on the top and on the underside almost looks like an umbrella. We made a calculation of the height of this bluff as well as we could and concluded it must be at least 200 feet higher than the river. The surrounding country can be seen for many miles from its summit, and Chimney Rock shows very plainly. We descended at the east end and arrived in camp at dark well satisfied with our journey. Some of the brethren have discovered a cave in one of these bluffs, and one went into it a little distance, but it being very dark and having no torch, he did not venture far. Elder Pratt reports that he saw on the top of one of the bluffs, a hole in a rock 15 inches in diameter and a foot deep with five inches of very cold good water in it. He supposed it to be a spring. Between the bluffs they also discovered a spring of pure cold water of a very good taste. Dr. Richards names these bluffs "Bluff Ruins" from their appearance being that of the ruins of castles, cities, etc. A little to the left is a small perpendicular rock much resembling Chimney Rock but smaller. The whole of the scenery around is one of romantic beauty which cannot be described with either pen or tongue. Last night a large black dog, half wolf, supposed to belong to the Indians, came to the camp. He has kept within two hundred yards of the wagons all day, and has followed us to this place. There have been many rattlesnakes seen today and six or seven killed. In fact, this place seems to abound with them. The evening was spent very joyfully by most of the brethren, it being very pleasant and moonlight. A number danced till the bugle sounded for bed time at nine o'clock. A mock trial was also prosecuted in the case of the camp vs. James Davenport for blockading the highway and turning ladies out of their course. Jackson Redding acted as the presiding judge. Elder Whipple attorney for defendant and Luke Johnson attorney for the people. We have many such trials in the camp which are amusing enough and tend among other things to pass away the time cheerfully during leisure moments. It was remarked this evening that we have one man in camp who is entitled to the credit of being more even tempered than any of the others, and that is Father Chamberlain. He is invariably cross and quarrelsome, but the brethren all take it as a joke and he makes considerable amusement for the camp. Opposite the encampment there are quite a number of small islands, but no timber on any of them.
The morning very fine and pleasant. Brother Egan commenced washing very early on the banks of the river. He kindly volunteered to wash my dirty clothing which I accepted as a favor. After breakfast President Young, Elders Kimball, Richards, Pratt, Woodruff, Smith and Benson and Lyman walked out to view Bluff Ruins and returned at half past eleven. A while ago I went out a little distance to view an adder which George Billings had discovered. It was a dark brown color about 18 inches long and three quarters of an inch thick through the body. They are represented as very poisonous. About eleven o'clock Nathaniel Fairbanks came into camp having been bitten in the leg by a rattlesnake. He went on the bluffs with Aaron Farr and Brother Rolf and as they jumped off from the bluff, the snake bit him, the others having jumped over him farther. He said that in two minutes after he was bitten his tongue began to prick and feel numb. When he got to camp his tongue and hands pricked and felt numb as a person feels their feet sometimes when they are said to be asleep. The brethren immediately applied some tobacco juice and leaves, also turpentine, and bound tobacco on his leg which was considerably swollen. We laid hands on him and Luke Johnson administered a dose of lobelia in number six after he had taken a strong drink of alcohol and water. The lobelia soon vomitted him powerfully. He complains much of sickness at his stomach and dimness in his eyes. He appears to be in much pain. While the brethren of the quorum of the twelve were on one of the high detached bluffs they found the skeleton of a buffalo's head. Brother Woodruff wrote the names of all the quorum of the twelve present and set it upon the southwest corner of the bluff. John Brown also wrote his name on it. Elder Pratt took the altitude of the bluff and found it to be 235 feet above the surface of the river. He did not calculate the height above the sea, owing to the state of the atmosphere. He, however, predicted wind from the same cause. At twelve o'clock the camp was called together for meeting, and after singing and praying we were addressed by Elder Snow, followed by President Young. The latter said there were many items of doctrine which he often felt like teaching to the brethren, but as to administering sealing ordinances, etc., this is no time or place for them, they belong to the house of God and when we get located we shall have an opportunity to build a house, etc. He expressed himself satisfied with the conduct of the camp in general. He is pleased to see so much union and disposition to obey council among the brethren and hoped and prayed that it may continue and increase. He wants the brethren to seek after knowledge and be faithful to acknowledge God in all things but never take his name in vain nor use profane language. If all the knowledge in this camp were put together and brother Joseph were here in our midst, he could comprehend the whole of it and wind it around his little finger. And then think of the knowledge of angels, and above that, the knowledge of the Lord. There is much for us to learn and a faithful man who desires eternal glory will seek after knowledge all the time and his ideas never suffered to rust but are always bright. He will not throw away the knowledge of small things because they are familiar, but grasp all he can and keep doing so and by retaining many small things he will thus gain a large pile, etc. He expressed his feelings warmly towards all the brethren and prayed them to be faithful, diligent and upright, for we are now sowing seed, the fruit of which will be plucked in after days whether good or bad. G. A. Smith made a few remarks, also several others of the brethren. The president then stated that on Sunday next he wants the brethren to understand that there will be meeting at eleven o'clock and the sacrament administered, and he wants the brethren to attend, all that can, and not ramble off and fatigue themselves but use the Sabbath as a day of rest. He enjoined it upon Bishops T. Lewis, S. Roundy, J. S. Higbee and A. Everett to see that the proper necessities were prepared for the sacrament. The meeting was then dismissed. A while after meeting I walked out with Elder Kimball a piece from the camp. We sat down and I read to him my journal of the last four days, with which he seemed well pleased. We then knelt down together and poured out our souls to God for ourselves, the camp and our dear families in Winter Quarters. While we were engaged in prayer the wind rose suddenly from the northwest, a heavy cloud having been gathering from the west all the afternoon. A sudden gust struck Elder Kimball's hat and carried it off. After we got through, his hat was nowhere in sight, but following the direction of the wind we soon saw it at a distance on the bottom of the prairie still flying swiftly. We both ran and chased it about three quarters of a mile and caught it a little from the river. While we were out together I remarked that the buffalo gnat had bitten us very severely. Elder Kimball said they bit him very badly last evening. Their bite is very poisonous, and although they are extremely small, they punish a person very much with an itching, aching pain like a mosquito bite. About five o'clock the wind blew a perfect gale and continued till seven when it commenced to rain very heavily, large drops descending, accompanied with hail, which however, did not continue very long but the wind continued nearly all night. The lightning and thunder continued some time but not very severe. We saw the necessity of having good stout bows to our wagons, and the covers well fastened down, for the very stoutest seemed in danger of being torn to pieces and the wagons blown over. When the wind commenced blowing so strongly it turned very cold and long before dark I went to bed to keep warm. Brother Fairbanks seems considerably better. This evening President Young, Kimball and Benson laid hands on him and he seemed much better afterwards.
The morning very cold indeed, strong wind from northwest. At 8:25 we continued our journey and traveled over level prairie ten miles, then halted to feed at 12:45. The bluffs on the north about two miles from us and the river one mile. About noon the weather began to moderate and grow warmer. While we were resting two Indians came to camp, their object evidently being to get the dog which has followed us to this place. They tarried a little while and then went away taking the dog with them. At 3:00 p.m., we again proceeded and traveled till 6:00 p.m., distance six and a half miles, during the day 16½. Several of the horse teams gave out and they are evidently failing but the oxen are gaining daily. The mules stand the journey well and in fact all the teams, considering the scarcity of grass. About 5:30 we discovered a party of Indians on the opposite side the river moving west. When we formed our encampment they crossed over the river. Some of the brethren went to meet them carrying a white flag with them. When the Indians saw the flag, some of them began to sing, and their chief held up a U. S. flag. It was soon ascertained that their object was to obtain something to eat. A number of them came to the camp and were conducted around by Colonels Markham and Rockwood. They were shown a six and fifteen shooter also the cannon and the gunners went through the evolutions a number of times which seemed to please them much. They are all well dressed and very noble looking, some having good clean blankets, others nice robes artfully ornamented with beads and paintings. All had many ornaments on their clothing and ears, some had nice painted shells suspended from the ear. All appeared to be well armed with muskets. Their moccasins were indeed clean and beautiful. One had a pair of moccasins of a clear white, ornamented with beads, etc. They fit very tight to the foot. For cleanness and neatness, they will vie with the most tasteful whites. They are thirty-five in number, about half squaws and children. They are Sioux and have two recommends certifying as to their friendship, etc. The brethren contributed something to eat which was sent to them. Our course today has been nearly west, with a cool wind. The evening fine but cold enough to freeze clothing stiff when laid on the grass to dry. Elder Kimball has been quite unwell all day and mostly kept to his wagon. Opposite the camp on the south side the river is a very large rock very much resembling a castle of four stories high, but in a state of ruin. A little to the east a rock stands which looks like a fragment of a very thick wall. A few miles to the west Chimney Rock appears in full view. The scenery around is pleasant and romantic. After the Indians had viewed the camp, they returned to their horses and the rest of the party who have camped on the banks of the river about a quarter of a mile west of us. Elder Sherwood returned with them and soon after came back accompanied by the chief and his squaw who signified a wish to abide with our camp tonight. The brethren fixed up a tent for them to sleep under; Porter Rockwell made them some coffee, and they were furnished with some victuals. The old chief amused himself very much by looking at the moon through a telescope for as much as twenty minutes. Brother Fairbanks is much better this evening. Last night Luke Johnson discovered a very large petrified bone in the neighborhood of the bluffs as much as two feet wide, but he could not ascertain the length of it. After laboring sometime ineffectually to dig it up, he broke off two pieces and brought them to camp. They are very white and hard. It is now eleven o'clock. I have been writing in Elder Kimball's journal since dark, and have but little chance to write as much as I want in my own and his both, but I feel determined to do all I can to keep a journal of this expedition which will be interesting to my children in after days, and perhaps to many of the Saints. The evening is very fine but cool and I retire to rest with the feeling: "God bless my dear family."
The morning fine and very pleasant. Most of the Indians, men, women and children came early to camp on their ponies and marched around mostly trying to obtain something to eat. Several little barters were made with them for moccasins, skins, etc. John S. Higbee traded ponies with one of them. They have some good ponies and some inferior ones, but both male and females are neatly dressed and very tidy. They look cheerful and pleased to witness the camp, etc. At 8:20 we proceeded onward. After we started, the Indians left us and went over the river. One mile from where we started, we began to ascend a low range of bluffs to avoid a large, high sandy ridge which projects to the river. We traveled three quarters of a mile and descended again to the level prairie. At 9:40 we halted to let the cattle and teams graze, the feed being good and plentiful, having traveled two and a half miles, mostly northwest around a bend of the river. The sun is very hot, the roads sandy and hard teaming. The river is probably three quarters of a mile wide here and on this side there are many small islands. At 11:15 continued our journey and traveled till half past one, distance four and three quarters miles over a very soft, wet, level prairie. We then halted to feed and rest our teams, as they have been hard drawn nearly all day. We have seen no game for several days except a few antelope and hares. The buffalo appear to have left this region and in fact there are little signs of many having been here. The feed is poor, mostly last year's growth and very short. One of the hunters killed an antelope, which was brought to camp and divided to the captains of tens. At 3:00 p.m. we started again and traveled till a quarter to six, distance four and three quarters miles, and during the day twelve miles. For three miles of the first of this afternoon we had a good road, but the last part has been very wet and soft, numerous ponds of water standing all around caused by heavy rains. We have camped on a very wet spot, but the feed being poor where it was drier, it was decided to stay for the benefit of the teams. Our course has been about northwest, very little wind and the day very warm. Chimney Rock shows very plain and appears not more than two miles distance but is no doubt five miles distance or over. Another antelope has been killed and brought in by the hunters. Elder Orson Pratt is taking an observation to ascertain the height of Chimney Rock. The evening was very pleasant and the brethren passed away their time till after nine o'clock dancing. Porter Rockwell shot the two antelope spoken of above. He also shot two wolves. Latitude six and a quarter miles back, 41° 41' 46".
The morning very fine and pleasant. I have spent the morning working on Dr. Richards' map. At eight o'clock continued on our journey. Elder Pratt taking observations to tell the distance our road lies from Chimney Rock. Yesterday morning Stephen Markham traded a mule which was foundered and unable to work to one of the Indians for a pony. They put him in the harness a little towards evening and again this morning. When crossing a very soft place the whipple tree unhitched and struck against his heels. He ran full gallop towards the head teams and twice through the line of wagons causing several teams, horses and oxen both, to spring from the road and run some distance before the men could stop them. After running nearly a mile some of the brethren caught the pony, brought him back and put him to the wagon again without any accident, except a little injury to the harness. After traveling four and five-eighths miles, we arrived at a point directly north of Chimney Rock which we ascertained by the compass, having traveled since it was first discovered 41½ miles. We proceeded till twelve o'clock and halted to feed, having traveled seven and a quarter miles, a northwest course, the road very straight and hard excepting a few spots where the water stands caused by late heavy rains. We turned south a little to get to grass as the higher prairie is barren, and scarcely any grass on it. Porter Rockwell has killed two antelope and John Brown one which were brought into camp and are being divided amongst the companies as usual. Elder Pratt found that Chimney Rock is 260 feet high from its base to its summit and the distance from our road at the nearest point three miles. The latitude at noon halt 41° 45' 58". At 2:25 resumed our journey making our road nearer the river than this morning. The road somewhat crooked but good traveling. After traveling five miles, turned directly south to avoid a bad slough and went a quarter of a mile and then formed our encampment at five o'clock on the banks of the river. The last quarter of a mile was not reckoned in the day's travel which exclusive of that is 12¼ miles, course north of northwest. The feed here is good and sufficient to fill our teams well. Joseph Hancock killed an antelope which was brought into camp and distributed. Soon after we camped, walked out to the bank of the river with Presidents Young and Kimball to read to them some of the minutes of the old council. We were joined by Dr. Richards and tarried till seven o'clock, at which time a heavy black cloud was fast approaching from the west and was soon followed by a strong wind and a little rain which lasted only a short time. The evening afterwards warm and pleasant though somewhat cloudy. Carloss Murray has been trying to rear the young eagle caught on Saturday. After stopping tonight, he put it under a wagon and a while afterwards the men ran the wagon back, one of the wheels ran over its head and killed it. I wrote in Heber's journal till half past ten and then went to rest.
The morning very fine. We have seen a number of romantic spots on our journey, but I consider our view this morning more sublime than any other. Chimney Rock lies southeast, opposite detached bluffs of various shapes and sizes. To the southwest, Scott's Bluffs look majestic and sublime. The prairie over which our route lies is very level and green as far as we can see. The bluffs on the north low, and about three miles distant. The scenery is truly delightful beyond imagination. I have finished making Dr. Richards' map to Chimney Rock. Elder Pratt has measured the width of the river at this place by the sextant and found it to be exactly 792 yards. At ten minutes to eight we continued our journey and traveled near the banks of the river till 11:45, being eight miles. The route very good, hard and good traveling, although a little crooked. Porter Rockwell has killed two antelope and Amasa Lyman one, which were brought to the wagons and distributed. There are some heavy thunder clouds in the south and west and a nice breeze from northeast. At two o'clock we continued our journey over the same kind of dry level prairie, keeping not far distant from the banks of the river and making a straight road. At the distance of four and an eighth miles passed the meridian of the northernmost peak of Scott's Bluffs being 19¾ miles from the meridian of Chimney Rock. These bluffs are very high, steep, and broken like many others, resembling ancient ruins. They are probably two miles from north to south extremity, but not very wide. We traveled till 4:45 and formed our encampment in a circle near the banks of the river which from this place seems to bend for some distance to the north, having traveled this afternoon five and three quarters miles and during the day thirteen and three quarters, mostly northwest. Elders Kimball and Woodruff pointed out the road this forenoon. Afternoon Elder Kimball rode with me in Johnson's wagon while I read some of his journal to him. The evening is very cold, wind northeast, and raining some. Feed is good and the camp generally well. Another antelope was brought in by the hunters. The latitude of the northernmost peak of Scott's Bluffs 41° 50' 52".
The morning cool, damp, cloudy and some rain. Wind northeast. At about eight o'clock the brethren were called together and the question asked: shall we go on in the rain or wait until it is fair? All agreed to stay until it was fair. I went to writing in Heber's journal and wrote till nearly eleven o'clock. Elder Kimball came to the next wagon where some of the boys were playing cards. He told them his views and disapprobation of their spending time gaming and dancing and mock trying, etc., and especially the profane language frequently uttered by some. He reasoned with them on the subject and showed them that it would lead from bad to worse if persisted in until the consequences would become serious. He exhorted them to be more sober and wise. It growing fair, we started out at eleven o'clock, our first four miles being north of northwest in consequence of a bend in the river. We traveled beside a creek of very clear water about a mile. It rises about four miles northwest of where we camped last night and runs in a crooked direction till it empties into the river about a mile west of the camp. It rises from springs as was proved by Horace Whitney who traced it to its source where there is a spring rising out of a circular kind of wet swamp about six feet in diameter. The creek is about eight feet wide but not deep, the bottom is gravelly. Near where it empties into the river, they discovered a number of large spotted trout, suckers and dais of a good size. The water tasted very good and cold. At the distance of four miles we arrived and traveled at the foot of the bluffs, the road sandy and heavy on teams. We soon turned from the bluffs on a level barren prairie, hard and good traveling. At nine miles descended on a lower bench of prairie where we found it wet and soft though not bad rolling. At 4:45 formed our encampment near the river, having traveled eleven and a half miles, the last seven a little south of west. The feed here is not very good. Driftwood tolerably plentiful. We have seen a few small trees on the islands today but none on the north bank. Vast quantities of southern wood and prickley pear grow on these sandy prairies where there is no grass. The evening cloudy and dull with cold northeast wind. While Thomas Brown and Porter Rockwell were out hunting about five miles north of here, the former saw five or six Indians about a quarter of a mile from him. They also saw many new footprints of horses, which shows that there is a hunting party near.
The morning cold, wet and cloudy with wind from northeast. We shall not travel unless it grows fair and better weather. I spent the morning writing in Elder Kimball's journal, but felt very unwell having taken cold yesterday and been sick all night. About ten o'clock, the weather looked a little better and at half past ten the bugle sounded as a signal for the teams to be got together. After the teams were harnessed, the brethren were called together to the boat in the circle. President Young taking his station in the boat, ordered each captain of ten to lead out his respective company and get all his men together. He then called on the clerk to call over the names of the camp to see if all were present. Joseph Hancock and Andrew Gibbons were reported to be absent hunting. Brothers Elijah Newman and Nathaniel Fairbanks were confined to their wagons but answered to their names, the remainder all present. President Young then addressed the meeting in substance as follows:
"I remarked last Sunday that I had not felt much like preaching to the brethren on this mission. This morning I feel like preaching a little, and shall take for my text, 'That as to pursuing our journey with this company with the spirit they possess, I am about to revolt against it.' This is the text I feel like preaching on this morning, consequently I am in no hurry. In the first place, before we left Winter Quarters, it was told to the brethren and many knew it by experience, that we had to leave our homes, our houses, our land and our all because we believed in the Gospel as revealed to the Saints in these last days. The rise of the persecutions against the Church was in consequence of the doctrines of eternal truth taught by Joseph. Many knew this by experience. Some lost their husbands, some lost their wives, and some their children through persecution, and yet we have not been disposed to forsake the truth and turn and mingle with the gentiles, except a few who have turned aside and gone away from us, and we have learned in a measure, the difference between a professor of religion and a possessor of religion. Before we left Winter Quarters it was told to the brethren that we were going to look out a home for the Saints where they would be free from persecution by the gentiles, where we could dwell in peace and serve God according to the Holy Priesthood, where we could build up the kingdom so that the nations would begin to flock to our standard. I have said many things to the brethren about the strictness of their walk and conduct when we left the gentiles, and told them that we would have to walk upright or the law would be put in force, etc. Many have left and turned aside through fear, but no good upright, honest man will fear. The Gospel does not bind a good man down and deprive him of his rights and privileges. It does not prevent him from enjoying the fruits of his labors. It does not rob him of blessings. It does not stop his increase. It does not diminish his kingdom, but it is calculated to enlarge his kingdom as well as to enlarge his heart. It is calculated to give him privileges and power, and honor, and exaltation and everything which his heart can desire in righteousness all the days of his life, and then, when he gets exalted into the eternal world he can still turn around and say it hath not entered into the heart of man to conceive the glory and honor and blessings which God hath in store for those that love and serve Him. I want the brethren to understand and comprehend the principles of eternal life, and to watch the spirit, be wide awake and not be overcome by the adversary. You can see the fruits of the spirit, but you cannot see the spirit itself with the natural eye, you behold it not. You can see the result of yielding to the evil spirit and what it will lead you to, but you do not see the spirit itself nor its operations, only by the spirit that's in you. Nobody has told me what has been going on in the camp, but I have known it all the while. I have been watching its movements, its influence, its effects, and I know the result if it is not put a stop to. I want you to understand that inasmuch as we are beyond the power of the gentiles where the devil has tabernacles in the priests and the people, we are beyond their reach, we are beyond their power. We are beyond their grasp, and what has the devil now to work upon? Upon the spirits of men in this camp, and if you do not open your hearts so that the Spirit of God can enter your hearts and teach you the right way, I know that you are a ruined people and will be destroyed and that without remedy, and unless there is a change and a different course of conduct, a different spirit to what is now in this camp, I go no farther. I am in no hurry. Give me the man of prayers, give me the man of faith, give me the man of meditation, a sober-minded man, and I would far rather go amongst the savages with six or eight such men than to trust myself with the whole of this camp with the spirit they now possess. Here is an opportunity for every man to prove himself, to know whether he will pray and remember his God without being asked to do it every day; to know whether he will have confidence enough to ask of God that he may receive without my telling him to do it. If this camp was composed of men who had newly received the Gospel, men who had not received the priesthood, men who had not been through the ordinances in the temple and who had not had years of experience, enough to have learned the influence of the spirits and the difference between a good and an evil spirit, I should feel like preaching to them and watching over them and telling them all the time, day by day. But here are the Elders of Israel, men who have had years of experience, men who have had the priesthood for years--and have they got faith enough to rise up and stop a mean, low, groveling, covetous, quarrelsome spirit? No, they have not, nor would they try to stop it, unless I rise up in the power of God and put it down. I do not mean to bow down to the spirit that is in this camp, and which is rankling in the bosoms of the brethren, and which will lead to knock downs and perhaps to the use of the knife to cut each other's throats if it is not put a stop to. I do not mean to bow down to the spirit which causes the brethren to quarrel. When I wake up in the morning, the first thing I hear is some of the brethren jawing each other and quarreling because a horse has got loose in the night. I have let the brethren dance and fiddle and act the nigger night after night to see what they will do, and what extremes they would go to, if suffered to go as far as they would. I do not love to see it. The brethren say they want a little exercise to pass away time in the evenings, but if you can't tire yourselves bad enough with a day's journey without, dancing every night, carry your guns on your shoulders and walk, carry your wood to camp instead of lounging and lying asleep in your wagons, increasing the load until your teams are tired to death and ready to drop to the earth. Help your teams over mud holes and bad places instead of lounging in your wagons and that will give you exercise enough without dancing. Well, they will play cards, they will play checkers, they will play dominoes, and if they had the privilege and were where they could get whiskey, they would be drunk half their time, and in one week they would quarrel, get to high words and draw their knives to kill each other. This is what such a course of things would lead to. Don't you know it? Yes. Well, then, why don't you try to put it down? I have played cards once in my life since I became a Mormon to see what kind of spirit would attend it, and I was so well satisfied, that I would rather see in your hands the dirtiest thing you could find on the earth, than a pack of cards. You never read of gambling, playing cards, checkers, dominoes, etc., in the scriptures, but you do read of men praising the Lord in the dance, but who ever read of praising the Lord in a game at cards? If any man had sense enough to play a game at cards, or dance a little without wanting to keep it up all the time, but exercise a little and then quit it and think no more of it, it would do well enough, but you want to keep it up till midnight and every night, and all the time. You don't know how to control your senses. Last winter when we had our seasons of recreation in the council house, I went forth in the dance frequently, but did my mind run on it? No! To be sure, when I was dancing, my mind was on the dance, but the moment I stopped in the middle or the end of a tune, my mind was engaged in prayer and praise to my Heavenly Father and whatever I engage in, my mind is on it while engaged in it, but the moment I am done with it, my mind is drawn up to my God. The devils which inhabit the gentiles' priests are here. The tabernacles are not here, we are out of their power, we are beyond their grasp, we are beyond the reach of their persecutions, but the devils are here, and the first thing you'll know if you don't open your eyes and your hearts, they will cause divisions in our camp and perhaps war, as they did with the Lamanites as you read in the Book of Mormon. Do we suppose that we are going to look out a home for the Saints, a resting place, a place of peace where they can build up the kingdom and bid the nations welcome, with a low, mean, dirty, trifling, covetous, wicked spirit dwelling in our bosoms? It is vain! vain! Some of you are very fond of passing jokes, and will carry your jokes very far. But will you take a joke? If you do not want to take a joke, don't give a joke to your brethren. Joking, nonsense, profane language, trifling conversation and loud laughter do not belong to us. Suppose the angels were witnessing the hoe down the other evening, and listening to the haw haws the other evening, would they not be ashamed of it? I am ashamed of it. I have not given a joke to any man on this journey nor felt like it; neither have I insulted any man's feelings but I have hollowed pretty loud and spoken sharply to the brethren when I have seen their awkwardness at coming to camp. The revelations in the Bible, in the Book of Mormon, and Doctrine and Covenants, teach us to be sober; and let me ask you elders that have been through the ordinances in the temple, what were your covenants there? I say you should remember them. When I laugh I see my folly and nothingness and weakness and am ashamed of myself. I think meaner and worse of myself than any man can think of me; but I delight in God, and in His commandments and delight to meditate on Him and to serve Him and I mean that everything in me shall be subjected to Him. Now let every man repent of his weakness, of his follies, of his meanness, and every kind of wickedness, and stop your swearing and profane language, for it is in this camp and I know it, and have known it. I have said nothing about it, but I now tell you, if you don't stop it you shall be cursed by the Almighty and shall dwindle away and be damned. Such things shall not be suffered in this camp. You shall honor God, and confess His name or else you shall suffer the penalty. Most of this camp belong to the Church, nearly all; and I would say to you brethren, and to the Elders of Israel, if you are faithful, you will yet be sent to preach this Gospel to the nations of the earth and bid all welcome whether they believe the Gospel or not, and this kingdom will reign over many who do not belong to the Church, over thousands who do not believe in the Gospel. Bye and bye every knee shall bow and every tongue confess and acknowledge and reverence and honor the name of God and His priesthood and observe the laws of the kingdom whether they belong to the Church and obey the Gospel or not, and I mean that every man in this camp shall do it. That is what the scripture means by every knee shall bow, etc., and you cannot make anything else out of it. I understand there are several in this camp who do not belong to the Church. I am the man who will stand up for them and protect them in all their rights. And they shall not trample on our rights nor on the priesthood. They shall reverence and acknowledge the name of God and His priesthood, and if they set up their heads and seek to introduce iniquity into this camp and to trample on the priesthood, I swear to them, they shall never go back to tell the tale. I will leave them where they will be safe. If they want to retreat they can now have the privilege, and any man who chooses to go back rather than abide the law of God can now have the privilege of doing so before we go any farther. Here are the Elders of Israel who have the priesthood, who have got to preach the Gospel, who have to gather the nations of the earth, who have to build up the kingdom so that the nations can come to it, they will stop to dance as niggers. I don't mean this as debasing the negroes by any means; they will hoe down all, turn summersets, dance on their knees, and haw, haw, out loud; they will play cards, they will play checkers and dominoes, they will use profane language, they will swear! Suppose when you go to preach, the people should ask you what you did when you went on this mission to seek out a home for the whole Church, what was your course of conduct? Did you dance? Yes. Did you hoe down all? Yes. Did you play cards? Yes. Did you play checkers? Yes. Did you use profane language? Yes. Did you swear? Yes. Did you quarrel with each other and threaten each other? Why yes. How would you feel? What would you say for yourselves? Would you not want to go and hide up? Your mouths would be stopped and you would want to creep away in disgrace. I am one of the last to ask my brethren to enter into solemn covenants, but if they will not enter into a covenant to put away their iniquity and turn to the Lord and serve Him and acknowledge and honor His name, I want them to take their wagons and retreat back, for I shall go no farther under such a state of things. If we don't repent and quit our wickedness we will have more hinderances than we have had, and worse storms to encounter. I want the brethren to be ready for meeting tomorrow at the time appointed, instead of rambling off, and hiding in their wagons to play cards, etc. I think it will be good for us to have a fast meeting tomorrow and a prayer meeting to humble ourselves and turn to the Lord and he will forgive us."
He then called upon all the High Priests to step forth in a line in front of the wagon and then the bishops to step in front of the High Priests, which being done, he counted them and found their number to be four bishops and fifteen high priests. He then called upon all the seventies to form a line in the rear of the high priests. On being counted, they were ascertained to number seventy-eight. Next he called on the elders to form a line in the rear of the wagon. They were eight in number. There were also eight of the quorum of the twelve. He then asked the brethren of the quorum of the twelve if they were willing to covenant, to turn to the Lord with all their hearts, to repent of all their follies, to cease from all their evils and serve God according to His laws. If they were willing, to manifest it by holding up their right hand. Every man held up his hand in token that he covenanted. He then put the same question to the high priests and bishops; next to the seventies, and then to the elders, and lastly to the other brethren. All covenanted with uplifted hands without a dissenting voice. He then addressed those who are not members of the Church and told them they should be protected in their rights and privileges while they would conduct themselves well and not seek to trample on the priesthood nor blaspheme the name of God, etc. He then referred to the conduct of Benjamin Rolfe's two younger brothers, in joining with the Higbees and John C. Bennett in sowing discord and strife among the Saints in Nauvoo and remarked that there will be no more Bennett scrapes suffered here. He spoke highly of Benjamin Rolfe's conduct, although not a member of the Church and also referred to the esteem in which his father and mother were held by the Saints generally. He then very tenderly blessed the brethren and prayed that God would enable them to fulfill their covenants and then withdrew to give opportunity for others to speak if they felt like it. Elder Kimball arose to say that he agreed with all that President Young had said. He receives it as the word of the Lord to him and it is the word of the Lord to this camp if they will receive it. He has been watching the motion of things and the conduct of the brethren for some time and has seen what it would lead to. He has said little but thought a great deal. It has made him shudder when he has seen the Elders of Israel descend to the lowest, dirtiest things imaginable, the tail end of everything, but what has passed this morning will make it an everlasting blessing to the brethren, if they will repent and be faithful and keep their covenant. He never can rest satisfied until his family is liberated from the gentiles and their company and established in a land where they can plant and reap the fruits of their labors, but he has never had the privilege of eating the fruits of his labors yet, neither has his family, but when this is done he can sleep in peace if necessary but not till then. If we will serve the Lord, remember His name to call upon Him, and be faithful, we shall not one of us be left under the sod, but shall be permitted to return and meet our families in peace and enjoy their society again; but if this camp continues the course of conduct it has done, the judgment of God will overtake us. He hopes the brethren will take heed to what President Young has said and let it sink deep in their hearts.
Elder Pratt wanted to add a word to what has been said. "Much good advice has been given to teach us how we may spend our time profitably by prayer, and meditation, etc." But there is another idea which he wants to add. "There are many books in the camp and worlds of knowledge before us which we have not obtained, and if the brethren would devote all their leisure time to seeking after knowledge, they would never need to say they had nothing with which to pass away their time. If we could spend 23 hours out of the 24 in gaining knowledge and only sleep one hour of the 24 all the days of our life, there would still be worlds of knowledge in store for us yet to learn. He knows it is difficult to bring our minds to diligent and constant studies, in pursuit of knowledge all at once, but by steady practice and perseverance we shall become habituated to it, and it will become a pleasure to us. He would recommend to the brethren, besides prayer, and obedience, to seek after knowledge continually. And it will help us to overcome our follies and nonsense; we shall have no time for it.
Elder Woodruff said he remembered the time when the camp went up to Missouri to redeem Zion, when Brother Joseph stood up on a wagon wheel and told the brethren that the decree had passed and could not be revoked, and the destroying angel would visit the camp and we should die like sheep with the rot. He had repeatedly warned the brethren of their evil conduct and what it would lead to, but they still continued in their course. It was not long before the destroying angel did visit the camp and the brethren began to fall as Brother Joseph had said. We buried eighteen in a short time and a more sorrowful time I never saw. There are nine here who were in that camp and they all recollect the circumstance well and will never forget it. He has been thinking while the President was speaking, that if he was one who had played checkers or cards, he would take every pack of cards and every checker board and burn them up so that they would no longer be in the way to tempt us.
Colonel Markham acknowledged that he had done wrong in many things. He had always indulged himself, before he came into the Church, with everything he desired and he knows he has done wrong on this journey, he knows his mind has become darkened since he left Winter Quarters. He hopes the brethren will forgive him and he will pray to be forgiven and try to do better. While he was speaking he was very much affected indeed and wept like a child. Many of the brethren felt much affected and all seemed to realize for the first time, the excess to which they had yielded and the awful consequence of such things if persisted in. Many were in tears and felt humbled. President Young returned to the boat as Brother Markham closed his remarks and said in reply, that he knew the brethren would forgive him, and the Lord will forgive us all if we turn to Him with all our hearts and cease to do evil. The meeting was then dismissed, each man retiring to his wagon. And being half past one o'clock we again pursued our journey in peace, all reflecting on what has passed today, and many expressing their gratitude for what has transpired. It seemed as though we were just commencing on this important mission, and all realizing the responsibility resting upon us to conduct ourselves in such a manner that the journey may be an everlasting blessing to us, instead of an everlasting disgrace. No loud laughter was heard, no swearing, no quarreling, no profane language, no hard speeches to man or beast, and it truly seemed as though the cloud had burst and we had emerged into a new element, a new atmosphere, and a new society. We traveled six and three quarters miles about a north of northwest course and then arrived at the foot of the low bluffs which extend within about ten rods of the river, the latter forming a large bend northward at this point. At the foot of the bluffs the road was sandy and very heavy on our teams. Like all other sandy places, it was perfectly barren, being only a tuft of grass here and there. After passing over the sand we changed our course to a little north of west, not, however, leaving the bluffs very far. The river bends again to the south. We then found the ground hard and good to travel over, but perfectly bare of grass for upwards of a mile. At five o'clock it commenced raining very hard accompanied by lightning and thunder and strong northeast wind. It also changed considerably cooler again. At five thirty o'clock we formed our encampment on the edge of the higher bench of prairie. The feed is tolerably good on the bottom but here there is none at all. We have passed a small grove of fair sized trees, all green, growing on the islands in the river which are tolerably many near here, but there is no timber yet on this side of the river. The brethren pick up drift wood enough to do their cooking. I spent the evening writing in this journal till half past twelve o'clock, but felt quite unwell. The distance we have traveled today is eight and a half miles, during the week seventy-four and a half, making us 514½ miles from Winter Quarters. There is a creek of clear water about 200 yards to the south from which the camp obtains what they want.
The morning fair and somewhat more pleasant, although there is yet appearance for more rain. I felt quite unwell through the night and also this morning, having severe pain. At nine o'clock most of the brethren retired a little south of the camp and had a prayer meeting, and as many as chose to, expressed their feelings. At a little before twelve they met again in the same spot to partake of the sacrament. Soon afterwards all the members of the council of the K. of G. in the camp, except Brother Thomas Bullock, went onto the bluffs and selecting a small, circular, level spot surrounded by bluffs and out of sight, we clothed ourselves in the priestly garments and offered up prayer to God for ourselves, this camp and all pertaining to it, the brethren in the army, our families and all the Saints, President Young being mouth. We all felt well and glad for this privilege. The members of the above council are Brigham Young, Heber C. Kimball, Willard Richards, Orson Pratt, George A. Smith, Wilford Woodruff, Amasa Lyman, Ezra T. Benson, Phineas H. Young, John Pack, Charles Shumway, Shadrack Roundy, Albert P. Rockwood, Erastus Snow, myself, Albert Carrington and Porter Rockwell. The two latter, having no clothing with them, stood guard at a little distance from us to prevent interruption. When we started for the bluffs, there was a heavy black thunder cloud rising from the southwest, and from all appearance it might rain any minute, but the brethren believed it would not rain till we got through and if it did we chose rather to take a wetting than to be disappointed of the privilege. It kept off remarkably till we got through and got our clothing on, but soon after it began to rain and after we got to camp it rained considerably, accompanied by strong wind. I never noticed the brethren so still and sober on a Sunday since we started as today. There is no jesting nor laughing, nor nonsense. All appear to be sober and feel to remember their covenant which makes things look far more pleasant than they have done heretofore. I spent most of the afternoon in Elder Kimball's wagon with Elder Kimball, President Young, Lorenzo and Phineas Young. Read the minutes of President Young's discourse of yesterday. About five o'clock President Young, Kimball, Benson and others walked out together to the bluffs. They invited me to go with them but I was so afflicted with cramps I could scarcely walk, and after drinking a cup of tea prepared by Ellen Sanders I went to my wagon and retired to bed early. The evening more pleasant with a light shower occasionally. Elder Kimball, President Young, and others saw the Black Hills in the distance from a high bluff.
The morning fine but cool. I feel quite unwell yet and have been sick all night. At a quarter past eight we proceeded onward, found good level traveling, the day cool and pleasant. We soon struck a wagon trail which evidently leads direct to Fort Laramie. At four miles, passed some high sandy bluffs. Traveled till after twelve and then turned off a little to the southwest and at half past twelve o'clock halted for noon at the edge of lower land where there is some short green grass for our teams. The land we have traveled over this morning is naked and barren, course west of northwest, distance nine and a half miles. A high wind from northwest. Latitude 42° 04' 30". Started again at 3:00 p.m., weather warm and wind ceased. At 6:45 p.m. formed our encampment on the east bank of a shoal stream about ten feet wide, having traveled this afternoon seven and a quarter miles, and during the day sixteen and three quarters. Our course this afternoon a little north of west. About four miles back, passed some timber on this side of the river which is the first since the 10th inst, being a distance of 215 miles without wood for fire, except driftwood, and much of the time nothing but buffalo chips. The last four or five miles have been sandy, the ground uneven and very heavy on our teams. The country looks perfectly barren; in some places there is nothing but a few weeds and garlick. Some of the brethren picked considerable of the latter to eat. The feed is very poor indeed, but a little better than four miles back. John S. Higbee has killed a deer and some of the brethren wounded two others. This deer which Brother Higbee killed is of the long tailed species, having a tail more than a half a yard long, and is the first one I ever saw of the kind. A while after we camped, President Young and Kimball went to the bluffs and again saw the Black Hills in the distance. They bowed before the Lord and offered up their prayers together.
The month of May has passed over and we have been permitted to proceed so far on our journey, being 531¼ miles from our families in Winter Quarters, with the camp generally enjoying good health and good spirits, and although some things have passed which have merited chastisement, we have the privilege at the closing of the month of seeing a better feeling, a more noble spirit, and a more general desire to do right than we have before witnessed. I feel to humble myself and give God thanks for his continued mercies to me and my brethren and may His spirit fill our hearts and may His angels administer comfort, health, peace and prosperity to all our families and all the Saints henceforth and forever. Amen.
The morning very fine, warm and pleasant. All is still and quiet as a summer's morning, the camp well and in good spirits and a feeling of peace, union and brotherly love seems to dwell in every breast. My mind revolves back upon by-gone days and then to the present, and I truly feel thankful to my God for His mercies to me and for the privilege I now daily enjoy. The idea of dwelling with my family in a land of peace, in the midst of the Saints of God is better felt than described, but the mild, still scenery of this morning puts me in mind of it. At nine o'clock we pursued our journey, the stream we passed over is called by Grosclaude: "The Raw Hide." Elder Kimball let me have his horse to ride. I went in company with George A. Smith who was on foot carrying his gun in fulfillment of President Young's prophecy at the Pawnee Mission station. The wagons went on till half past eleven and then halted for noon. We were about a mile ahead of them. The distance they traveled was four and a half miles. At half past one, started out again and traveled till a little after four o'clock and saw Fort Laramie about four miles to the southwest. Elder Kimball and President Young then came up to where Brother Woodruff and I were looking out for feed and we started on, President Young having stopped the wagons, and went to the ford opposite to the fort. It was finally concluded to form our encampment here on the banks of the river. Several men soon came down from the fort which is about two miles from here and made themselves known as a part of the Mississippi company from Pueblo. They have been here two weeks. It caused us much joy to meet with brethren in this wild region of country and also because we should have some news from the brethren in the army. Luke Johnson being up here with the boat and several others coming up, they got the boat into the river to go over and see the brethren. And Luke Johnson, John Brown, Joseph Mathews and Porter Rockwell started over and about the same time, Presidents Young and Kimball started back to bring the camp up. When the brethren got over the river Brother Brown met several whom he knew and soon returned bringing Brother Crow and his son-in-law over to this side. The brethren seemed pleased to meet us. Brother Crow reports deaths in the Pueblo detachment since Brothers Tippets and Woolsey left, viz. Melcher Oyler, Arnold Stevens. They also state that Soloman Tindall was on the point of death. The other portion of the battalion they had not heard from. The Pueblo brethren are expected to receive their pay and start for this point, at latest by this date, and will probably be here in about two weeks. They also recorded that three traders from the mountains arrived here six days ago, having come from Sweet Water in six days and nights. They traveled day and night with horses and mules to prevent their starving to death as there is no feed up there. Two of their oxen had died already, etc. The snow was two feet deep at Sweet Water when they left, so that we are evidently plenty soon enough for feed. At 5:45 the wagons arrived and formed encampment on the banks of the river in the form of a V, having traveled this afternoon, seven and a half miles and during the day, twelve, making a total from Winter Quarters to Fort Laramie 543¼ miles and we have traveled it in seven weeks lacking a half a day, but we have traveled but a few miles on Sundays. We have arrived so far on our journey without accident except the loss of two horses by Indians and two killed. We have been prosperous on our journey, the camp are all in better health than when we left Winter Quarters and we see daily that the Lord blesses us and directs the movements of this camp as seemeth Him good and as is for our good and prosperity. The road today has been mostly sandy and heavy on teams with but little feed in any place. The country begins to have a more hilly and mountainous appearance. Some of the Black Hills show very plain from here. The timber is mostly ash and cottonwood on the low bottoms near the river. There is some cedar on the bluffs. In one of the large ash trees in the middle of the camp is an Indian babe or papoose. It cannot be said to be buried, but deposited, being first wrapped with a skin and then tied between two of the highest limbs of the tree. This is said to be the way they bury their dead. The bark is all peeled off the tree below, I suppose to prevent the wolves from getting up.
The morning pleasant. About nine o'clock started over the river in company with the Twelve and others to view the fort and also learn something in regard to our journey, etc. Elder Pratt measured the distance across the river at this spot and found it to be 108 yards. The water is deep in the channel and the current runs about four miles an hour. After crossing we went up to the remains of an old fort called Fort Platte which is near the banks of the river, the outside walls still standing, but the inside is in ruins, having been burned up. The walls are built of adobes or Spanish brick, being large pieces of tempered clay dried in the sun and apparently laid one on another without mortar or cement. The dimensions of this fort outside are 144 feet east to west, and from north to south 103 feet. There is a large door fronting to the south which has led to the dwellings which have been fourteen in number, built in the form of a parallelogram, leaving a large space in the center. The space occupied by the dwelling is not quite half of the whole fort. Fronting to the east is another large door which opens upon a large open space 98¾ feet by 47 feet where it is supposed they used to keep horses, etc. At the northwest corner is a tower projecting out from the line of the walls six feet each way, or, in other words it is twelve feet square with port holes for cannon. At the northeast corner has been another projection extending eastward 29½ feet and is 19½ feet wide. The walls are 11 feet high and 30 inches thick. We took the dimensions of this with a tape line and then proceeded to Fort Laramie about two miles farther west. This latter fort was first built of wood about thirteen years since, and named Fort William, but being destroyed was afterwards built seven years ago with adobes and named John. It stands on the bank of the Laramie fork. Laramie fork is a stream forty-one yards wide, a very swift current, but not deep. We tarried a little while with the Mississippi brethren who have camped close by the fort and then went inside. We were politely welcomed by Mr. Bordeau who appears to be the principal officer. He conducted us up a flight of stairs into a comfortable room and being furnished with seats, we rested ourselves. President Young and others entered into conversation with Mr. Bordeau. From him we learned that we cannot travel over four miles farther on the north side the Platte before we come to bluffs which cannot be crossed with loaded wagons. The road is better on this side than the one we have traveled, it being hard and not sandy. Feed scarce mostly lying in little patches near the river. They send their furs to Fort Pierre on the Missouri river a distance of 400 miles by land and receive all their stores and provisions back by the same teams, except their meat which they kill, there being buffalo within two days' drive. They have tried making a garden and planting corn which did well enough the first year, but afterwards they could raise nothing for want of rain. They have had no rain for two years until a few days ago. They have got a flat boat which will carry two wagons easily which we can have for fifteen dollars or he will ferry us over for $18.00 or 25c a wagon. From the door of this room one can see the same black hill seen on Sunday evening and which is Laramie Peak. We could see the snow lying on it very plainly. We can also see several ranges of high hills in the distance which are no doubt parts of the Black Hills. We went across the square to the trading house which lies on the north side of the western entrance. The trader opened his store and President Young entered into conversation with him. They trade solely with the Sioux. The Crows come here for nothing but to steal. A few weeks ago a party came down and stole twenty-five horses, all that they had at the fort, although they were within 300 yards of the fort at the time and a guard around them. The Sioux will not steal on their own land. A pair of moccasins are worth a dollar, a lariat a dollar, a pound of tobacco a dollar and a half, and a gallon of whiskey $32.00. They have no sugar, coffee or spices as their spring stores have not yet arrived. They have lately sent to Fort Pierre, 600 bales of robes with ten robes in each bale. Their wagons have been gone forty-five days, etc. The blacksmith shop lies on the south side of the western entrance. There are dwellings inside the fort beside that of Mr. Bordeau's. The south end is divided off and occupied for stables, etc. There are many souls at this fort, mostly French, half-breeds, and a few Sioux Indians. Elder Pratt measured the river and found it forty-one yards. He also took the latitude which was 42° 12' 13". Brother Bullock told me that several of the brethren had picked up a number of beads off the ant hills. Curiosity led me to go and examine and I found it even so. It appears that the ants gather all the small pebbles they can carry and build them over their hills to prevent the strong winds from blowing them away, and amongst the rest, they picked up beads which have been lost off the Indians' moccasins and robes, etc. I picked up quite a number. Brother Bullock and I took the dimensions of the fort which will be given in another place. We then got on board the boat and had a pleasant ride about three miles down the Laramie fork to its mouth, the current being very swift. At the mouth, the brethren mostly got on shore and towed the boat up to camp. After dinner I went over again in the cutter which was going to fish with the seine in the Laramie fork. They caught sixty or seventy small fish, salmon, suckers, etc. About six o'clock we returned to camp. The Twelve have decided that Amasa Lyman shall go with Brothers Woolsey, Tippets and Stevens to Pueblo. They start tomorrow. Longitude at Fort Laramie 104° 11' 53". I have seen three birds here which very much resemble the English magpie in size, shape and color, in fact I know of no difference between the two. We passed a number of currant bushes about four miles back, quite thick with young, green currants. On the morning of the 4th of June, I put up a guide board on the north side of the river at the ferry with the following inscription on it, viz. Winter Quarters 543¼ miles, junction of the forks 227½ miles. Ash Hollow 142¼ miles, Chimney Rock 70¼ miles, Scott's Bluffs 50½ miles. Wm. Clayton, June 4, 1847. Elder Pratt took the altitude of Fort Laramie and found it to be 4,090 feet above the level of the sea. Fremont makes 4,470, differing 380 feet.
The morning cold with strong southeast wind. The first division commenced ferrying over the river at five o'clock and took a wagon over every fifteen minutes. After breakfast I went over and wrote a letter for Elder Kimball to James Brown at Pueblo, then walked up to a high bluff on the northwest to view the country, but not being able to see far from it, I went to another over a mile farther northwest. Although this last was very high I could see nothing but a succession of high ranges of bluffs as far as I could see, except the narrow space through which the river winds its course. Seeing some heavy thunder clouds rising very rapidly from the northwest I returned to camp and arrived just before the rain commenced. Elders A. Lyman, Thomas Woolsey, John H. Tippets and Roswell Stevens started at 11:15 on horses and mules for Pueblo. President Young, Kimball, Richards and Pratt accompanied them to the Laramie fork and then held a council, kneeled down and dedicated them to God and blessed them. The four then forded the river and went on their journey, the others returned to camp. At half past 1:00 p.m. it commenced raining heavily accompanied by hail, lightning and very loud thunder, which lasted till 3:30 p.m. During the storm, the horses were mostly secured in the old fort. The ferrying ceased till it was fair again, and about five o'clock the first division were all over. The boat was then manned by the second division, John S. Higbee, captain. They averaged a wagon across in eleven minutes and one in ten minutes and one in ten minutes and twenty seconds. The quickest trip made by the first division was thirteen minutes. About seven o'clock it commenced raining again from the southeast and rained heavily, consequently the brethren quit ferrying, leaving three companies of about fifteen wagons on the other side. All the wagons would have been taken over today if it had not been stormy.
There is a report come in that there are 2,000 wagons on the road to Oregon, but a little distance behind, but we are satisfied the report is exaggerated. There are eighteen wagons camped about three miles below and one of the men who has come to the fort says that they have counted over 500 wagons. They have lost four horses by the Indians.
Morning very fine. Laramie peak shows very plain. The brethren commenced ferrying at 4:40 a.m., and at eight o'clock the last wagon was over. I walked up to a high bluff with Carlos Murray and picked up some stalactites clear as crystal supposed to be isinglass. The bluff is very high and almost perpendicular and it is dangerous to get to the crystals.
At nine o'clock President Young, Kimball, W. Richards, A. P. Rockwood and T. Bullock walked up to Fort Laramie and returned soon after eleven o'clock. They have learned very favorable reports about Bear River Valley, being well timbered, plenty of good grass, light winters, little snow and abundance of fish, especially spotted trout, in the streams. About half past eleven o'clock Brother Crow's company came down and joined in with the second division and at twelve we started on our journey again, following the Oregon road. We traveled three miles and at 20 minutes past 1:00, halted near some good grass to let our teams feed. The weather is very warm though many light clouds are flying. The bluffs come near the river and are very high, steep, and look like sand. During the halt I went up on a very high bluff near by with my glass. I found it very difficult of ascent. From the top I could see Laramie peak very plainly and also some hills a long way off to the northwest. The country looks very hilly as far as can be seen and the snow on the peak shows quite plain. At half past two we continued our journey and found the road sandy and very uneven. At the distance of seven and three quarters miles from Fort Laramie we descended a very steep pitch or hill. All the wagons had to be locked and we were some time getting down. We went on half a mile farther and formed our encampment in a circle at half past five, having traveled eight and a quarter miles today. At half past five we had a shower accompanied by a little lightning and heavy thunder. I will now give the list of names of Brother Crow's company who have joined the camp today to go with this pioneer camp. They are as follows:
Robert Crow, Elizabeth Crow, Benjamin B. Crow, Elizabeth Jane Crow, John McHenry Crow, Walter H. Crow, Geo. W. Therlkill, Matilla Jane Therlkill, Milton Howard Therlkill, James William Therlkill, William Parker Crow, Isa Vinda Exene Crow, Ira Minda Almarene Crow, Archibald Little, James Chesney and Lewis B. Myers, seventeen in number, making the total number of souls in this pioneer camp, after deducting four gone to Pueblo, 161.
Lewis B. Myers is represented as knowing the country to the mountains, having traveled it, and I am told that he came as a guide to Brother Crow. They have five wagons, one cart, eleven horses, twenty-four oxen, twenty-two cows, three bulls and seven calves.
Inasmuch as there have been some changes in horses and mules, I will endeavor to state them and give the number we started with from Fort Laramie. Two horses killed by accident. Two horses stolen by the Pawnees at Gravel creek; one mule traded for a pony by Brother Markham; three horses and one mule gone with the brethren to Pueblo; one horse traded by O. P. Rockwell for three cows and two calves; one horse traded by John Pack for three buffalo robes; one horse traded by T. Brown for a pony at Laramie; one pony traded by J. S. Higbee to the Sioux for a pony. These changes with the addition made by Brother Crow's company make the number as follows: horses 95, mules 51, head of oxen 100, cows 41, bulls 3, calves 7, dogs and chickens, and 77 wagons and 1 cart.
The morning pleasant though somewhat cloudy. Elder Kimball gave George Billings a lecture about abusing his team, kicking them, etc. He gave George some very good advice. The horn sounded early to start but we were detained till half past eight on account of several oxen being missing. About that time they were found and we pursued our journey. After traveling a little over four miles we ascended a steep bluff. The road runs on the top of it a little distance in a very crooked direction, the surface in some places being hard, uneven rock, which shakes and jars the wagons very much. In one place there is a little descent and at the bottom a very sharp turn in the road over rough rock. Here Brother Crow's cart turned over. However, it was soon righted and no injury done to anything. At the west foot is a steep, sandy descent but not difficult. The bluff is a half a mile across. About a half a mile from the west foot we turned from the river nearly a west course and crossed a low gravelly channel where it appears the river has run sometime and perhaps does now in high water.
The road after this is considerably crooked and uneven. About a mile and a quarter farther we descended again on the same gravelly channel and traveled up it a piece and at 11:35 halted for noon opposite a very large spring noticed by Fremont. The water of this spring is very clear and soft, but considerably warmer than the river water. We have traveled this morning six and a half miles. Just as we halted, two men came down from the other road on mules to water. They are in company with eleven wagons and bound for west of the mountains. They say the other road from Laramie is only ten miles to the spring while our road has been 14¾ miles. About a half an hour after we stopped, we had a nice shower. The 1st division halted about a quarter of a mile back from here. Latitude at the warm springs 42° 15' 6". While we were halting, the company above referred to passed down the bluffs and went ahead of us. They have got many cows, etc., with them. At 1:40 p.m. we resumed our journey. After traveling a mile we turned in a narrow pass to the northwest between two high bluffs and traveled a quarter of a mile farther, then came to where the road rises a very high, steep bluff. At the foot is a short sudden pitch and then a rugged ascent for a quarter of a mile. The bluff is rocky and many large cobble stones lay in the road which made it hard on teams. Appleton Harmon took one of his yoke of cattle and assisted George Billings to the top and Brother Johnson took Appleton's steers and put them forward of his and brought up his wagon. Appleton and Johnson then took the three yoke of oxen and fetched up Appleton's wagon which threw us nearly in the rear of all the wagons, none of the rest doubling teams. After arriving on the top the road was good but still rising for a quarter of a mile farther. We traveled on this high land five and a quarter miles which was very good traveling although it was considerably rolling. Four and a half miles from the top of the last mentioned bluff, we passed a large lone rock, standing far away from any other. At five and a quarter miles we descended again from the bluff, the descent being steep and lengthy but sandy and good to travel. At the foot of the bluff we again crossed the gravelly channel and traveled on and alongside about a mile, then descended a little to the bottom prairie again. At 6:30 we formed our encampment on the west bank of a small stream and near a very good spring of cold water, having traveled this afternoon 10½ miles and during the day seventeen.
I have put up two guide boards today. One at 10 and the other at 20 miles from Fort John or Laramie, but the former name is on the guide boards. The bluffs we have passed today are mostly very high, rocky and broken, with pine growing on most or nearly all of them. We have pretty good feed here and plenty of wood and good water. The gentile camp is a little east of us. They say that there were two more companies arrived at Fort Laramie this morning as they left, and three other companies within twenty miles of Laramie. They left this morning. They left Independence on the 22nd of April. They are expecting the mail soon on mules, but they anticipate keeping ahead of all the companies. We find the road very crooked, but not bad traveling. About dark it rained some, accompanied by lightning and thunder. The camp was notified that tomorrow will be a day for fasting and prayer as last Sunday.
Morning cloudy, cool, and like for rain. At eight o'clock the eleven wagons passed us again. At nine the brethren assembled for prayer meeting a little from the camp, but many kept about their wagons, some washing and some at other things. At eleven o'clock, four Missourians came up mounted, being part of a company a little behind. Some of these are recognized by the brethren and they seem a little afraid and not fond of our company. They say the old settlers have all fled from Shariton, Missouri, except two tavern keepers, and I feel to wish that their fears may follow them even to Oregon. At half past eleven just as the brethren again assembled for meeting it commenced raining hard, accompanied by lightning and heavy thunder which caused the meeting to break up abruptly. During the storm, the Missouri company passed by us, having nineteen wagons and two carriages. Most of their wagons have five yoke of cattle to each, and few less than four. They have many cows, horses and young cattle with them. They have a guide with them who lives on the St. Mary's River at the Columbia. He says we shall find water again about six miles from here and then no more for fifteen miles farther. It was then considered wise to move on this afternoon as we cannot well reach the second watering place in one day. Soon after twelve o'clock the weather cleared off, the sun shone and looks like for being fine. The wind blows strong from the west. At half past 2:00 p.m. the camp began to move forward. About three quarters of a mile we crossed the same small stream again, and two miles further arrived at a sudden bend in the road to the south about two hundred yards and then as sudden to the north the same distance occasioned by the water having washed a deep gulf where the road ought to run. A mile beyond this the wagons came to a halt in a body of timber and brushwood at four o'clock, and halted while the brethren on horseback, viz. Elder Young, Kimball and Woodruff, went ahead to look for a camping ground. They returned at 4:40 and the camp proceeded on. Having proceeded a quarter of a mile we passed the camp of the nineteen wagons close by the timber a little south of the road. Several of the men came to look at the roadometer, having heard from some of the brethren that we had one. They expressed a wish to each other to see inside and looked upon it as a curiosity. I paid no attention to them inasmuch as they did not address themselves to me. At a quarter past 5:00 p.m. we formed our encampment in an oblong circle, at the foot of a low bluff on the west and close by water, having traveled five miles. The feed here is very good and plentiful. Wind strong from the west. Road very crooked, mostly a southwest and west course. There is plenty of timber all along and the soil looks good on the low lands. One of the men in the company of the nineteen wagons told G. A. Smith that he had broken his carriage spring and seemed much troubled to know what to do to get along. He asked George if there was any man in our company who could fix it. George told him there was. After we were camped, Burr Frost set up his forge and welded the spring ready to put on before dark.
Morning fine. Elder Pratt gave me some instructions on the use of the sextant and showed me how to take an observation. He has promised to teach me to take observations and calculate latitude and longitude and I intend to improve the opportunity. At 6:30 the Missouri company passed through again. And at ten minutes past seven we commenced our onward course. Dr. Richards left a letter in a guide board 30¼ miles to Fort John. I walked about five miles mostly in company with Elder Pratt conversing on astronomy and philosophical subjects. Elder Kimball then let me have his horse to ride. We traveled till eleven o'clock and then halted to feed on the west bank of a small stream and spring of clear water, having traveled 7¾ miles, mostly a north of northwest course. The road more even and good traveling. Soon after we halted, another company of Missourians passed us, having thirteen wagons and mostly four yoke of oxen to each. They say they are from Andrew County, Missouri. At 12:35 we moved forward. At a quarter of a mile began to ascend a bluff which was a quarter of a mile from the bottom to the top, the ascent gradual and tolerably steep. From the top of this hill we had as pleasant a view of the surrounding country as I have ever witnessed. Laramie peak appears only a few miles to the southwest, and from that around to the west, north, and northeast, a very extensive view of a beautiful country for many miles, indeed, as far as the eye could survey. From a fair view of the peak I am satisfied that the Black Hills, of which this is a prominent part, are so named from the vast forests of pine trees covering their surface and being of a dark green color within a few miles of them. The pine grows in the most rocky places and abounds on the highest hills, while on the lower bluffs it is sparsely scattered and in the bottom land, which looks rich and good, there are none. We have passed many noble trees and there is no lack of good pine timber in this region. The peak is very high, and very broken and craggy, the snow still lying on its summit and plainly visible with the naked eye. The ridge over which we passed was a half a mile over from the southeast to the northwest foot. At that distance we began to descend and had to lock the wagons in several places. The descent was rendered unpleasant by the many large cobble stones scattered in the road. Many of the brethren threw them out of the road as we went along and the road is much improved. They have also dug down some places and leveled others, which will make the road much better for other companies. At half past three we arrived at Horse Creek and formed our encampment on the bottom land near the timber or rather in the midst of a grove of ash, cottonwood, etc., having traveled five and a quarter miles this afternoon over crooked road and during the day, thirteen miles. On this camp ground is one of the clearest and largest springs of water I have seen for a long time. Elder Kimball having discovered it, he calls it his spring or Heber's spring. The creek is also clear and said to have trout in it. The feed is much better and more plentiful than we have ever met with on this journey. There is abundance of wild mint and sage growing here; the mint seems to perfume the air. The sage grows in abundance on all this sandy land. There are also many wild currant bushes in full bloom and prickley pears all along the road. The other companies were all within two miles when we arrived here, but mostly going on a few miles farther. A little before we stopped, we had a thunder storm which lasted upwards of an hour. During the latter part of it, it rained very heavily accompanied by hail and thunder and lightning. Our hunters have killed a long-tailed deer and an antelope, which were distributed as usual. Brother Crow's hunter also killed a deer, but they are unwilling to conform to the rules of the camp in dividing and reserve it all to themselves. Brother Crow observed that if they got more than they could use they would be willing to let the camp have some. Some of the other companies killed an antelope, took off the quarters and left the balance on the ground. Brother Pack picked it up and brought it along. After we stopped Brother Crow came near meeting with an accident while endeavoring to yoke up a pair of wild steers. It took a number of men to hold them, having lariats on their saddle-horns. They got the lariats entangled round their legs and Brother Crow also, throwing one of the steers down and he fast with it. They cut the rope and he was liberated without injury. Myers, the hunter, roasts the young antlers of the deer and eats them. In regard to Brother Crow's meat, etc., I afterwards learned that the whole family had to depend on Myers for what they eat, having no bread stuff, nor anything only what he kills, and the little flour and meal paid to him for a part of the ferryage, he having a small claim on Bordeau. After supper, walked out with Elder Kimball and was joined by George A. Smith. Brother Smith told me of a good opportunity of sending a letter to my family by some traders who are expected down every day and I feel to improve the opportunity. We had a very strong wind at night, so much that I could not write.
Morning fine though cool. At half past seven we proceeded on our journey crossing the Horseshoe creek, which is about a rod wide. We traveled two and a quarter miles, winding around the foot of high bluffs and then began to ascend them. We found this ascent the worst we have ever had, being three quarters of a mile up, and having in that distance seven very steep rises. On most of them the teams had to double. We saw a buffalo about a half a mile to the south which is the first we have seen since about the 21st of May. Two and a half miles from the east foot of the last bluff we passed over a small creek, nearly dry, and then ascended another high bluff but not nearly so bad a rise as the other one. At 11:45 we halted for noon near a very small creek with but little water in it, having traveled six and three quarters miles over hills and valleys, the roads being very crooked. About half an hour before we halted, Harriet Crow got run over with one of their wagons. The teams had stopped near the descent from the bluffs and she stepped on the wagon tongue to get a drink. The cattle started suddenly, threw her under the wheel which passed over her leg below the knee and downwards, passing over her foot above the toes. She screamed and appeared in great agony. We thought her leg was broken, but were soon satisfied to the contrary. Her foot was badly bruised but I think there was nothing broken. One of the women washed it with camphor. She was then put into a wagon and we proceeded on. Latitude 42° 29' 58".
At 1:40 we proceeded. After traveling a little over a mile and a half we passed another small creek, and again ascended a high bluff. We found this ridge more uneven than the other, it being a perfect succession of hills and hollows for five miles. The road was good and hard. While traveling on the top the wind blew very strong from the west and it was so cold that we suffered some. The road over was indeed very crooked but mostly bending to the north. We could see a long distance from the top. The country to the north looks more even but south and southwest very hilly and broken. At five miles we began to descend gradually, and while watching the roadometer I discovered it did not work right which made me pay more attention to it. At ten minutes past six we crossed a stream about thirty feet wide and nearly two feet deep with a very swift current. It is named on Fremont's map as La Bonte river. We formed our encampment on the west bank in the timber having traveled this afternoon 8¾ miles and during the day 15½. The evening is very cold and much appearance of rain. Porter Rockwell has killed a deer and someone else an antelope. Porter says he has been on the Platte which is about four miles from here following the La Bonte. Soon after we stopped, the men came into camp who were expected to carry a letter. They are camped about a mile west of us. I finished my letter to my family by candle light, as it is contemplated to start in the morning before breakfast and go a few miles to better feed.
Arose at 4:20 and at 5:15 a.m. we moved onward, keeping near the La Bonte. At 5:45 halted for breakfast beside the traders' camp, having come a mile and a quarter. I sent my letter to them by Aaron Farr, a number of the brethren also sending letters. While we halted I got the roadometer fixed again and also put up a guide board marked "To Fort John 60 miles." These traders or mountaineers said they had left a kind of ferry made of three buffalo skins hung in a tree on the Platte and wanted Brother Crow's company to have it. It was decided to send a company ahead to overreach the Missouri companies and get the ferry before they could arrive, and also build a raft for us to cross on, kill game, etc. The men say it is about seventy miles to where we cross the river. Nineteen wagons were sent ahead and about forty men to attend to this business. All of Brother Crow's company went, Aaron Farr, J. Redding, the cutter, etc., being five wagons from the 1st division and fourteen from the 2nd. They started about half an hour before we started. We proceeded at 7:45 and immediately after starting had to cross a very steep gulf, being difficult for teams to get up, though it was not long. Soon after this, four men passed us with pack horses and mules. They say they are from Pueblo and going to Green River; they told others they were from Santa Fe and going to San Francisco. We found the road very hilly and uneven and crooked as yesterday. At three and three quarters miles passed over a branch of the La Bonte, a stream about ten feet wide but not deep. The descent and ascent being very steep, most of the teams required assistance to get up. For half a mile before we crossed this stream and three and a half miles after, our road lay over a kind of red earth or sand about the color of red precipitate. Most of the rocks and bluffs are of the same red color, only a deeper red. It affected my eyes much from its brightness and strange appearance. About one and a quarter miles west of the creek President Young and Kimball saw a large toad which had horns on its head and a tail. It did not jump like a toad but crawled like a mouse. This was seen near a large pile of rock or rather a hill. At 12:40 we halted for noon having come ten miles since breakfast. There is little water here for the teams. The day fine and nice west breeze. The road is very crooked, hilly, and mostly rocky, many large cobble stones covering the bluffs, the land barren and little grass. The ground here is covered with large crickets which are so numerous, to walk without stepping on them is almost impossible.
At half past two o'clock we were on the move again. I put up another guide board a little east of the creek: "70 miles." We found the road much better this afternoon, not being so uneven, and tolerably straight excepting a bluff to climb a mile from the creek. At the foot of this bluff I saw a toad with a tail like a lizard, about three inches long. It had no horns but there was the appearance of horns just coming on each side of the head. It resembles a lizard in color, tail, and motion when running swiftly through the grass. Its hide appeared hard and on its sides appeared numerous little sharp pointed fins or pricks. In other respects it resembled any common toad. At a quarter past one we formed our encampment on the east banks of a stream about a rod wide, two feet deep and swift current. It is named the A La Pierre. We have traveled eight miles this afternoon and during the day 19¼. We have a good place for feed but the higher land is barren, abounding only in wild sage. There are still some high bluffs around but the country west appears much more level. The evening fine but cool. After traveling six and a quarter miles from noon halt, passed a small creek, and again three quarters of a mile farther passed the same creek. Sterling Driggs killed an antelope and a deer.
The morning calm and very pleasant. There is wild mint growing on the bank of this stream in great plenty and abundance of wild sage on all the higher land. The mint smells natural, but the sage smells strong of turpentine and a little like camphor. Started at half past seven and found good roads. At four and a half miles passed over a small creek about three feet wide but not much water, being only a few inches deep. A mile farther passed another creek about five feet wide, clear water and plentiful. At 11:20 we halted on the east bank of a stream about thirty feet wide and tolerably deep with a rapid current, having come eight and three quarters miles. We have had several long, steep bluffs to ascend and descend and two places at the creeks where it was hard for the teams to get up without help. We saw one of the Missouri companies a few miles ahead of us. Edmund Elsworth killed an antelope. There is good feed here and plentiful. Our road has been crooked mostly winding northward. The creek on which we camped last night is named A La Pierre and about a mile from where the road crosses, it runs through a tunnel from ten to twenty rods under the high rocky bluffs. The tunnel is high enough for a man to stand upright in it, and when standing at the entrance one can see the light through on the other side. It seems as though this tunnel has been formed by some strange feat of nature. Several of the brethren went to see it. Lewis Barney and another brother each killed an antelope which were brought into camp during the halt and divided. The brethren carried the two last about five miles on their shoulders. We have learned today from one of the travelers that there is one man living and making a farm in the Bear River valley. At a quarter to 2:00 we continued our journey. Found the road somewhat more even and good traveling. I put a guide board this morning at 80 miles from Fort John, and this afternoon after traveling three and a quarter miles from noon halt I put up another mark at 90 miles. Just as I finished setting it, I looked forward and saw the Platte river again. After descending a half a mile we were on its banks, being 77 miles since we left it on Saturday last, after having wound around among the hills and bluffs all the way. When we arrived near the river the road was more level but sandy and harder on our teams. There are also some low places where the water stands, making it soft, but scarcely any feed for teams since we left the creek at noon. At a quarter to six we passed another stream about thirty feet wide and two feet deep, swift current and clear water. Name is Deer Creek. There is plenty of timber on its banks and abundance of good, rich grass for our teams. We formed our encampment on the west bank in a grove of large timber. About a mile back we passed a sick horse supposed to be left by some of the companies ahead. Brother Markham bled it in its mouth, but could not get it along and had to leave it. The distance we have traveled this afternoon was nine miles and during the day 17¾ miles, the last five miles being nearly a west course. Soon after we camped, Horace Whitney went to fishing in this stream. We were soon satisfied that there are plenty of fish in it. I got a line and went to fishing also and in a few minutes caught two which would weigh a half a pound each. We then went a piece below the ford and by fishing till a little after dark I caught twenty-four nice fish which would average over a half a pound each, and some of them would weigh over a pound each. The ones I caught were of a very bright color and very much resembled the herring, but much larger. Horace caught a cat fish and two suckers. A number of brethren also caught more and some less. There is abundance of fish in this stream and we might have caught enough for all the camp with the sein but it is ahead with those who are gone to build a raft. The Twelve and some others walked out together to the river about a quarter of a mile up the stream. Some of the brethren discovered a rich bed of stone coal where any quantity might easily be dug, and it is said to look good and is a fine quality. The land here on the bottom is rich and would doubtless yield good crops of grain and potatoes, etc. Lewis Barney killed an antelope this afternoon which was distributed as he saw fit, inasmuch as he was not appointed a hunter. The evening is very fine, calm and pleasant indeed.
Arose at four o'clock to try and get some more fish. Morning fine and warm, but caught only four. I procured a sample of the stone coal from G. A. Smith. It looks good. This place reminds me of England. The calm, still morning with the warbling of many birds, the rich grass, good streams, and plenty of timber, make it pleasant. At 7:35 we again continued our journey along the banks of the river which appears somewhat wider here than at Laramie. At two and a half miles we passed a deep hollow, the banks on both sides being very steep. At four and a quarter miles put up a guide board at 100 miles from Laramie, having traveled it in a week lacking two and a quarter hours. At 11:50 we halted for noon in a grove of timber where there is plenty of good feed for a large company. The land since morning has been generally level, but sandy and no grass. The road somewhat crooked. About a mile back we came around a bend to the south caused by a deep ravine. We had to travel more than a mile to make a quarter of a mile direct. William Empey, Edmund Elsworth, and Francis M. Pomeroy, each killed an antelope. Several of the brethren have taken an interest in the guide boards and wherever they see a piece of board sufficiently large, they pick it up and preserve it. By this means we have now got enough to last 200 miles. The distance we have traveled since morning is nine and a quarter miles, being 105 miles in the week including Sunday, or 100 miles in six days. About half an hour after we halted, Brother Joseph Hancock came in with the hind quarters of an antelope which he killed about three miles back. He could not carry the remainder and left it on the ground. At two o'clock we started again. After traveling one mile, we crossed a very crooked, muddy creek, about twelve feet wide and over a foot deep. The descent and ascent were both bad on account of a crook from one to the other. There is plenty of feed on its banks, but no wood. Five and three-quarters miles farther another muddy creek about three feet wide and bad to cross on account of the clay being very soft in its banks. The balance of the road good, but considerably crooked. At half past five o'clock we came to a halt on account of seeing a number of wagons about a half mile ahead which proved to be two of the Missouri companies camped on the banks of the river and preparing to cross here. It was also ascertained that there is no camping place beyond them unless we go some distance. It was decided to turn off to the river opposite where we are and camp for the night and the wagons proceeded accordingly. We went a half a mile from the road and at six o'clock formed our encampment near the river where there is plenty of timber, having come on the road this afternoon seven and three-quarters miles and during the day seventeen miles, exclusive of the distance we turned off to camp. The feed here is good and plentiful. The region on the banks of the river is pretty level, but a few miles to the south there are very high bluffs. Very little chance for feed except in places on the banks of the river and generally where there is timber. These Missourian companies inform us that the regular crossing place is twelve miles farther and that our brethren are gone on there and also the balance of the Missourian companies. These men have got a light flat boat with them and have already got one load over. They say they have killed three bears between here and the bluffs. They have also killed a buffalo. There have been signs of bears seen by our brethren a number of times, but no bears for a certainty. We have only seen one buffalo since we left Laramie until today, when several have been seen. One of the Missourians brought a snow ball from the hill on the south. He gave Rockwood a piece of it, and he brought it to camp. Elder Kimball and several others saw it which now convinces us snow is yet lying on these high bluffs. Henson Walker, Charles Barnum and Brother Owens have each killed an antelope this afternoon, making eight during the day.
Morning very fine with nice east breeze. Brother Markham has learned this morning that Obadiah Jennings was the principal in killing Bowman in Missouri. Bowman was one of the guard who let Joseph and Hyrum and the others get away when prisoners in Missouri. The mob suspected him and rode him on a bar of iron till they killed him. At a quarter past eight o'clock we continued our journey. At one and a half miles crossed a deep gulch pretty difficult to descend but not bad to ascend. One and three-quarters miles farther, we crossed a small creek about two feet wide on a bridge which the brethren fixed, they having started ahead of the wagons for that purpose. One mile beyond the last mentioned creek we crossed another muddy stream about five feet wide, and one and a half feet deep. At a quarter to 12:00, we halted after crossing another large ravine, having traveled seven and three-quarters miles over a sandy, barren prairie. In some places it is soft, although the soil is much like clay in appearance. The road somewhat crooked, and the day fine and warm. During the halt, Brother Rockwood called upon the brethren to help fix another ravine immediately west of us. Many turned out and it was soon done. James Case and S. Markham went to the river opposite here to see if it could be forded. They waded their horses over and found the water about four feet six inches deep in the channel and the current very swift. Of course it could not be forded with loads in the wagons, but the loading would have to be ferried in the boat. They made a report of this kind on their return to camp and about the same time Brother Chesley came down from the brethren ahead and reported their progress and the nature of the crossing place, etc. A number of the brethren in company with Elder Kimball and Chesley went to the river opposite the camp to decide whether to cross here or go on. Brother Markham and Case again went over, but it was finally concluded to go up to the other ferry. We accordingly started at half past two. I went ahead on foot. At three and a quarter miles, crossed a creek about five feet wide. At half past four the encampment was formed on the banks of the river, having come four miles, and during the day eleven and a quarter. It is about a half a mile from our camp to the place where they ferry. I arrived at the brethren's camp at four o'clock and learned that they arrived here yesterday about noon. Two of the Missourian companies arrived about the same time. The brethren concluded that a raft would be of no use on account of the swiftness of the current. The Missourian company offered to pay them well if they would carry their company over in the boat and a contract was made to do so for $1.50 per load, the brethren to receive their pay in flour at $2.50 per hundred. They commenced soon after and this evening finished their work, and received the pay mostly in flour, a little meal and some bacon. They have made $34.00 with the cutter all in provisions which is a great blessing to the camp inasmuch as a number of the brethren have had no bread stuff for some days. During the afternoon yesterday, one of the men of the Missourian company undertook to swim across the river with his clothes on. When he reached the current he became frightened and began to moan. Some of our men went to him with the cutter and arrived in time to save his life. The Missourian company seem to feel well toward us and express their joy at having got across the river so soon. Rodney Badger exchanged wagons with one of them and got a wagon as good as his own, only the tire wants setting. He got a horse, 100 lbs. flour, 25 lbs. of bacon and some crackers to boot. The provisions and horse are considered to be worth as much as his wagon. Since the brethren arrived here they have killed three buffalo, a grizzly bear and three cubs, and two antelope. The buffalo are very fat and the meat is good and sweet. According to the idea of some French travelers camped here, the buffalo are making down east behind the hills opposite here, which they say is a certain sign that the Indians are on Sweet Water hunting them. The brethren say that the buffalo are very plentiful back of these hills. When I returned to camp I learned that Tunis Rappleyee and Artemas Johnson were missing, the former having started for the hills to get a little snow; the latter having been hunting all day. A company were sent out with the bugle to find them. Brother Rappleyee returned about eleven o'clock. Johnson was found by the brethren who returned still later. All agreeing with the report that the hills are eight or ten miles distance, although they do not appear more than one mile. There were four antelope killed by the brethren but divided according to the feelings of those who killed them.
The morning fine and pleasant. At nine o'clock the brethren assembled in the circle for prayer and after they had spent some time, Elder Kimball arose and addressed them exhorting them to be watchful and humble, to remember their covenants and above all things avoid everything that will lead to division, etc. He made use of the similitude of the potter and the clay to show that every man had the privilege of being exalted to honor and glory if he did not mar in the hands of the potter, but would continue passive, etc. His remarks were very touching and appropriate to our circumstances. President Young followed next on the "Liberty of the Gospel" showing that it guarantees all fullness of liberty to every man which fact will tend to his salvation and increase, but does not give us liberty to break the laws of God, to wander off to the mountains and get lost, nor to kill the works of God's hands to waste it, etc. He was followed by Elder Pratt on the subject of our avoiding all excesses of folly of every description, inasmuch as it disqualifies from the society of just men and angels. He exhorted the brethren to be watchful and to seek after wisdom and knowledge. The meeting was dismissed at half past twelve and a company were then dispatched to get poles to lash the wagons together to prevent their rolling over when crossing. Another company were sent over the river to build a raft to cross over provisions, etc. The brethren are gone to work and are diligently preparing to cross the river tomorrow. The day has been very hot, more like a summer day than any we have yet had on the journey. The ground seems to be alive with the large crickets, and it is said that the bears feed on them and pick them up very fast. A person who has never seen them could form no idea of the vast numbers of crickets in this region. I spent the day writing in Elder Kimball's journal. Phineas Young came in from the mountain, having killed a deer.
Morning cloudy and cool. At four o'clock the first division commenced ferrying their goods over the river in the cutter and some time afterwards commenced taking the wagons across on a raft which proved to be very slow work. The second division also began to take their goods over on a raft but the current was so strong they only took two loads over in it and then quit. The second division then got a rope stretched across the river from shore to shore and lashing two wagons fast together to keep them from rolling over, they dragged them over by the rope, letting them drift with the current to save breaking the rope. When the wagons struck on the sand on the other side the upper one keeled over, and finally rolled over the other one, breaking the bows considerably and losing iron, etc., in the wagon to the amount of $30.00 belonging to John Pack. The other wagon had the reach broken and some of the bows. They next lashed four wagons together abreast and dragged them over the same way. All got over well except the upper one which turned on its side, but it was righted again without damage. They next tried one wagon alone, but as soon as it got into the current it rolled over and over, breaking the bows pretty badly. The plan of taking one wagon at a time on a raft is the safest, no accident having occurred with it and the wagons got over dry but it is very slow and would take us three or four days to get all the wagons across. The wind blows strong from the southwest which is much to our disadvantage. At 3:30 we had a very heavy thunder storm. The rain was heavy indeed, accompanied by hail and as strong a wind as I ever witnessed. After the storm was over the ferrying was continued, getting my trunk, etc., and the loads in Brother Johnson and Harmon's wagons over, and also Harmon's wagon, Johnson's being got over just before the storm. It took till nearly ten o'clock to get the loading into the wagons and get regulated. The river has been rising all day and has risen very fast since the storm. The men have tried hard, much of the time being in the water and sometimes up to their armpits which is very fatiguing indeed. When they quit at night the first division had got eleven wagons over, the second division twelve, making twenty-three wagons after a very hard day's labor. There was no difficulty in getting the freight over for one man can carry it in the cutter faster than all the rest of the camp can get the wagons over.
The morning fine but very windy. The brethren continued ferrying wagons over on the raft and also built two other rafts. The wind being so high they could not get along very fast. In the afternoon they commenced driving over some of the horses and cattle belonging to Brother Crow's company. They neglected to take the lariats off the horses and the buffalo horse was soon seen to be drowning. Some of the men immediately went to it with the skiff and dragged him to the shore but could not succeed in bringing him to life. His natural make seemed to hurt him from swimming. The rest all got over safely. The cattle got over safely also; the current was very strong, the wind high and the river rising which made it look dangerous to swim the cattle across. It was concluded today to leave several brethren here to make a boat and keep a ferry till the next company comes up. By that means they will probably make enough to supply a large company with provisions. We have learned from a Missourian that there is a large company of emigrants coming up on the north side of the Platt above Grand Island. There are doubtless some of our brethren and if so they will probably reach us before we get through. The day continued windy and somewhat inclined to storm, but they succeeded in getting nearly twenty wagons over before night.
The morning fine but strong west wind. The brethren continue ferrying. A company have gone back about three miles to make two canoes on which they intend to build a boat to be used here till the next company comes up. Another company also went about half a mile up the river to make slabs or puncheons to lay on the canoes. A while before dark the brethren returned from below with two good canoes twenty-five feet long each and nearly finished and ready to put together. The ferrying continued all day but with great difficulty on account of the strong wind blowing down stream. When they started over with Brother Goddard's wagon the wind was blowing strong. James Craig and Wordsworth were on the raft with poles and when they got nearly half way across Brother Craig's pole stuck in the sand and threw him overboard. He swam back to shore and in spite of Brother Wordsworth's exertions, the wind and current carried the raft about two miles down the river. It was finally landed by the help of the cutter and without accident. They have had three rafts working today, two of which they now work by oars which are proving to be far superior to poles in this strong current. At the close of day there were still a number of wagons on the south shore. Those which had been brought over could not be easily counted on account of their being scattered all along the banks of the river for about a mile in length. It was now contemplated to leave a company of brethren at this ferry to ferry over the gentile companies for a dollar and a half a load till the next company of our brethren arrive. This is the object for which the new boat is being built. They will thus earn a good stock of provisions for themselves and be prepared to set the brethren of the next company over without delay and will also be able to preserve the boat for our use, for it is the instructions of the President that when they have ferried our brethren over to cache the boat and come on with them.
The morning fine but windy and cold. The brethren renewed the ferrying early and soon after noon they had got the last wagon safely over which was a matter of rejoicing to all the camp. Two companies of the Missourians had arrived and made application to be set over at a dollar and a half a load. When the contract was made with the first company to be sent across as soon as our wagons were over, the other company of ten wagons offered to pay the brethren 50c per man extra if they would set them over first, making $5.00 over the stated price for ferriage being ten of the brethren to work at it. Colonel Rockwood had made a contract to the above effect with the first company and did not like to break it. However, he received a hint that this was Colonel Markham's day for the use of the boat and consequently Colonel Markham had a right to take the last offer if he chose. He took the hint and they went to work forthwith at a dollar and a half a wagon in provisions at Missouri prices and 50c extra per man in what they preferred for themselves. The afternoon and evening was very cold indeed with a very strong wind. After President Young and Kimball got their wagons over, being about the last, orders were given for the camp to come together and form the wagons in a circle near the ferry. It took till near dark before all the wagons got up. The ferrying was continued all night and till daylight at which time many of the Missourians' wagons in the two companies were over.
Morning very cold and windy. The brethren continued working at the new boat, others continued ferrying the Missourians' wagons over. It was concluded not to start today but wait and assist in finishing the boat and also to take the provisions on which will be realized from these two companies. After dinner, I went with brother Pack to fish in the last creek we crossed about a mile and a half distance. We found the fish numerous and had good luck. I caught sixty-five very nice ones which would average half a pound weight each. About six o'clock I started back but found I had got more than I could easily carry to camp. However, when I got about half way, Brother Cloward met me and helped to carry them. We arrived at the camp about sundown pretty well tired. The afternoon was very warm and pleasant. When we arrived the Twelve and some others were going to council. I went with them. The names of those who are appointed to tarry were read over as follows: Thomas Grover, John S. Higbee, Luke Johnson, Appleton Harmon, Edmund Ellsworth, Francis M. Pomeroy, William Empey, James Davenport, and Benjamin F. Stewart. Thomas Grover was appointed captain. The President then referred to Brother Glines who was wishful to stay but the president said he had no council for him to tarry, but he might do as he had a mind to. Some explanations followed by Glines, but the unanimous feeling of the brethren was to have him go on. The President preached a short sermon for the benefit of the young elders. He represented them as being continually grasping at things ahead of them which belong to others. He said the way for young elders to enlarge their dominion and power is to go to the world and preach and then they can get a train and bring it up to the house of the Lord with them, etc. The letter of instructions was then read and approved by the brethren and the council was then dismissed.
Morning fine but cool. At 7:50 the camp started out again in good health and spirits and the teams in very good order. It was remarked by several that their stock had fattened so much while stopping at the ferry, they hardly knew them. The grass appears to be rich and good. The first six miles of the road was nearly in a west direction over several considerably high bluffs. At that distance the road turns suddenly to the south and rises up a very high bluff which is upwards of a mile from the foot to the summit. There is some interesting scenery on the top of this bluff, especially a range of rough, coarse, sandy rocks of a dark brown color, rising abruptly above the surface of the land in huge masses and ranging east and west. The descent on the south side was rough, crooked and uneven, and about half way down was a bed of white earth mixed with black in places and others yellow. In one place you can pick up small fragments of rock of each color within a yard of each other. Towards the foot, the road is still more uneven and there are several steep pitches and rises. At one o'clock we halted for noon on a spot of good grass about a quarter of a mile from a small spring which is the first water we have come to since leaving the ferry which is eleven and a quarter miles. There is no timber nearer than the bluffs probably two miles away and that is small cedar and little of it. The Red Buttes are nearly opposite to this place towards the southeast and appear to be two high bluffs of red earth or sand, presenting a very triangular, yet interesting appearance. After stopping about an hour it was decided to move on to the spring and we started accordingly and found it to be a small stream of water rising out of the quick sands. At the distance of twelve miles from the ferry there is quite a lake of water supposed to be supplied by a spring. Indeed we could see the water boil up out of the mud in several places. The grass on the banks of this lake is good and plentiful but no timber within two miles or upwards. After watering teams at the lake, at ten minutes to three we continued our journey, bearing near a southwest course over rolling prairie. At the distance of eight miles from the spring there is a steep descent from a bluff and at the foot there is a high ridge of sharp pointed rocks running parallel with the road for near a quarter of a mile, leaving only sufficient space for wagons to pass. At the south point there is a very large rock lying close to where the road makes a bend, making it somewhat difficult to get by without striking it. The road is also very rough with cobble stones. At 7:40 we formed our encampment in a small spot surrounded by high bluffs, having traveled this afternoon ten and a quarter miles and during the day twenty-one and a half which is the longest distance we have traveled in one day since we left Winter Quarters, and this is considered by all to be the worst camping ground we have had on the journey, but we were obliged to take it for there is neither wood, grass, nor water since we left the spring. The land being perfectly sandy and barren, and nothing growing but wild sage and a small prickly shrub something like those on the moors in Lancashire, England. There is some grass in this place for our teams but no wood. The brethren have to make use of the wild sage and buffalo chips to do their cooking. There are two small streams of water, one appears to come from the northwest and is not very bad water; the other is from the southwest and is so bad that cattle will not drink it. It is strong of salt or rather saleratus and smells extremely filthy. Its banks are so perfectly soft that a horse or ox cannot go down to drink without sinking immediately nearly overhead in thick, filthy mud, and is one of the most horrid, swampy, stinking places I ever saw. It was found necessary to keep a guard out to prevent the cattle from getting into it and orders were given to drive them down a little east where feed is pretty good and it is not so dangerous of their miring. The mosquitoes are very bad indeed at this place which adds to the loathsome, solitary scenery around. Porter Rockwell returned from hunting soon after we had camped and reported that he had killed a fat buffalo about two miles off. A team was sent to fetch in the meat which they did not return till long after dark. Elder Kimball saw six buffalo while riding ahead to look out a camp ground. They are represented as being more tame. Myers killed two buffalo, but took only the tallow and tongues and left the rest to rot on the ground. John Norton and Andrew Gibbons left the camp at the springs and went out to hunt, expecting we should stay there till Monday. Gibbons has not been seen or heard of since. Norton has returned and reports that he has killed a buffalo and left it back not far from the spring. About nine o'clock there was an alarm that an ox had mired. He was nearly covered but soon got out again.
Morning fine, mosquitoes very bad. Two more oxen found almost buried in the mud and all hands appeared wishful to leave this place and at a quarter past five o'clock we moved out. The first mile was bad traveling, there being several steep pitches in the road making it dangerous for axletrees. A number of the brethren went ahead with picks and spades and improved the road somewhat. After traveling three and three quarters miles we halted for breakfast at seven o'clock beside a small clear stream of spring water about a foot wide, but plenty for camping purposes. The feed on its banks good and plentiful but no wood yet. Elder Kimball states that when he and Elder Benson were riding ahead last evening to look out a camping ground they came within a quarter of a mile of this place but were not near enough to discover the water. A while before they arrived here, as they were riding slowly along, they saw six men suddenly spring up from the grass to the left of the road. The men were clothed in blankets some white and some blue and had every appearance of being Indians and the brethren thought they were Indians. The six mounted their horses and started on in a direction parallel with the road. The brethren also kept on their course. In a little while one of the supposed Indians left the rest and rode towards the brethren and motioned with his hand for them to go back. They, however, kept on and paid no attention to his motion. When he saw them still coming, he wheeled round and joined the others who all put spurs to their horses and were soon out of sight behind a higher piece of land. Soon as they were out of sight Elder Kimball and Benson spurred their horses and rode to the ridge and as they arrived there they discovered a camp of the Missourians about a quarter of a mile to the left of the road and the six Indians were just entering the camp. The brethren were now satisfied that these Indians were Missourians and had taken this plan to keep us back from this good camp ground. It is considered as an old Missouri trick and an insult to the camp, and if they undertake to play Indian again, it is more than likely they will meet with Indian treatment. Their camp left here a little before we arrived this morning and it is now President Young's intention to press on a little faster and crowd them up a little. We have learned from one of the emigrants a few miles in our rear that Andrew Gibbons tarried with their camp over night. When he returned to the spring and found our camp gone and the Missourians' camp there, he told them of the dead buffalo killed by Norton. They went and fetched what meat they wanted and feasted on it, he joining with them and faring well. At a quarter past nine we proceeded on our journey. After traveling three miles, we arrived at the Willow spring and halted a little while to get water. This spring is about two feet wide and the water ten inches deep, perfectly clear, cold as ice water, and very good tasting. There is a willow grove extending for some distance above and below it which will answer very well for firing purposes. The grass is good and plentiful and it is one of the loveliest camping spots I have seen on the journey, though the land where the stream runs below the spring is soft and some danger of cattle miring. The spring is situated between two very high hills and is about three rods west of the road and shielded from the sun by a bank about eight feet high and the willow grove. A little piece before we arrived at the spring there are two very deep ravines to cross, which requires some care on the part of the teamsters to prevent accidents. At a quarter of a mile beyond the spring we began to ascend a very high hill which was one mile from the foot to the top and the ascent pretty steep. The summit of this hill is nicely rounding and considered to be much the highest we have traveled over. From the top can be seen a vast extent of country to the south, west, and north. For about twenty or thirty miles to the south there appears to be a tolerably level bottom over which our future road runs. Beyond this there are vast ranges of high hills whose summits are spotted with snow. In the distance to the southwest can be seen a small body of water which we suppose to be a part of the Sweet Water river. To the west the ridges of rocks or hills appear nearer. They are probably not over fifteen miles from us. On the north we can see hills a long distance. The one opposite Red Buttes, near the spring where we halted yesterday noon, appears only a few miles distance. The view from this hill is one of romantic beauty which cannot easily be surpassed and as President Young remarked, would be a splendid place for a summer mansion to keep tavern. We then descended on the southwest corner of the hill and found it to be just one mile farther to the foot. At the distance of three quarters of a mile farther we found a good place for feed, being plenty of grass, but no water nor wood. At a mile and a quarter still farther we crossed a very bad slough which is about a rod across and following the road, nearly three feet deep in water and stiff mud. Most of the wagons crossed a little to the right of the road and found it not so difficult to cross, yet very soft. There is also plenty of good grass at this spot. A mile beyond this slough we ascended a very steep bluff though not very high and the descent on the southwest is also very steep. At 2:45 we halted to feed in a ravine where there is plenty of grass and a good stream of water about three hundred yards south from the road but destitute of wood. We have traveled this forenoon nine miles over barren, sandy land being no grass only in the spots above mentioned. During the halt it was decided that President Young take the lead with his wagon and try to proceed a little faster. At five o'clock we again proceeded, the President's wagon going first; all the others keeping their places. I will here remark that it is the order of our traveling for each company of ten to go forward in their turn. The first ten in the first division taking the lead one day, then on the second day it falls in the rear of the first division, the second ten takes the lead and this continues till each company of ten have taken the lead one day a piece. Then the first division falls in the rear of the second division which also begins by companies of ten to take the lead of the road as stated above and when each ten have had their day, the second division again falls in the rear of the first which continues in the same order. Thus every man has his equal privilege of traveling one with another. After traveling two and a half miles we descended to the bottom land again and saw a small stream a little to the left of the road where there is plenty of grass. One and three quarters miles farther we crossed a creek of tolerably clear water about six feet wide and one foot deep, but neither grass nor timber on its banks. After traveling seven miles this afternoon we turned off from the road to the left and at 8:20 formed our encampment on a ridge near the last mentioned creek where there is good feed, having traveled this afternoon seven and a quarter miles, exclusive of allowance for turning from the road, and during the day twenty miles. We had been in hopes of reaching the Sweet Water but it appears we are yet some miles from it. The whole country around is entirely destitute of timber, not a tree to be seen, nor a shrub larger than the wild sage which abounds in all this region of country and will answer for cooking when nothing else can be found. Some anxiety is felt on account of the absence of Elder Woodruff and John Brown. They started ahead this morning with instructions to go on about fifteen miles and if they found a good place to camp, to stay. They have not been seen or heard of since. It is supposed they have fallen in with some of the companies either forward or back and have concluded to tarry with them over night.
Morning very fine and warm. From this place we can see a huge pile of rocks to the southwest a few miles. We have supposed this to be the rock of Independence. After breakfast I went to view it and found that it was a vast pile of rocks extending from south to north about five hundred feet and in width, one hundred feet. The rocks are large and seem piled on one another with the edges up. There is no earth on the ridge but a little drift sand in which there are currant and rose bushes growing. I saw a large mouse on the top which had a long bushy tail like a squirrel. It sat up and acted in every respect like a squirrel, but in size and color resembled a mouse. At 8:35 the camp proceeded onward. After traveling three and a quarter miles we arrived on a bed of saleratus which was a quarter of a mile across and on which were several lakes of salt water. This place looks swampy and smells bad. The beds of saleratus smell like lime, but the saleratus itself is said to raise bread equal to the best bought in eastern markets. Lorenzo Young gathered a pail full in a short time with a view to test its qualities. Large quantities may be gathered in a short time and when pulverized it looks clean and nice. We are now satisfied that the water we saw from the hills yesterday must have been some of these lakes as the Sweet Water is not yet in sight, but these being high, show at a long distance. The water is not very salty but brackish and tastes sickly. It is reported by travelers that these are poisonous, but it is probable that all the poison there is about them is their salt causing cattle to drink freely when they can get no other water, and the more they drink, the more thirsty they get till they burst themselves, which is said to be the effect of drinking the poison, viz., to burst. As we passed along a little farther we saw another large lake to the left and one to the right of the same nature, their banks mostly white with saleratus. At twelve o'clock we arrived on the banks of the Sweet Water, having traveled seven and a half miles over a very sandy road destitute of wood, water or grass. The distance from the upper ferry of the Platte river to this place is forty-nine miles by the roadometer. There has formerly been a ford here but lately emigrants have found a better ford higher up the river. At this place the river is probably seven or eight rods wide and over three feet deep at the ford, but in some places it is much deeper still. The current is very swift, the water a little muddy, but pleasant tasting. By watching it closely it is easy to see on the surface numerous small bright particles floating which at first sight might be supposed to be salt, however the water itself has not the least saline taste. On the banks of the river there is plenty of good grass but destitute of wood there being only one solitary tree to be seen and that stands beside this fording place. The only chance for fuel appears to be the wild sage and other small shrubbery occasionally growing in spots on the low banks. After we halted, Sister Harriet Young made some bread using the lake saleratus and when baked was pronounced to raise the bread and taste equal to the best she had ever used and it requires less of this than the common saleratus. A number of the brethren went back during the halt and filled their pails with it calculating to make use of it during our future journey. The day has been very hot and no wind which makes it unpleasant traveling. Elder Woodruff and Brown again joined the camp on our arrival here and reported that they had spent the night in one of the gentile camps which are now some miles ahead of us. There are many high hills or ridges of the granite rock in the neighborhood, especially in the east and west, all entirely destitute of vegetation and which present a very wild and desolate as well as romantic aspect. I can describe their appearance only by saying that it seems as though giants had in by-gone days taken them in wheelbarrows of tremendous size and wheeled up in large heaps, masses of heavy clay which has consolidated and become solid, hard rock. The rock Independence lies a little west of where we have halted and after dinner I went to view it as well as many others. It lies on the north bank of the river in this shape: The extreme southeast corner reaches to within about three rods of the river and runs in a direction northwest while the river at this place runs nearly a west course. It is composed of the same barren granite as other masses in this region and is probably 400 yards long, 80 yards wide and 100 yards in perpendicular height as near as I could guess. The ascent is difficult all around. Travelers appear to have ascended it mostly at the southeast corner where there are some hundreds of names of persons who have visited it, both male and female, painted on the projecting surfaces with black, red, and some with yellow paint. About half way up there is a cavern about twelve feet long and three feet wide at the bottom but at the top about ten feet wide and eight feet high, formed by a very large heavy mass of rock having sometime fallen over an opening or cavity leaving scarcely room enough for a man to enter. However there are three places by which it may be entered though not without difficulty. There are a number of names inside the cavern put on with black paint, doubtless being the names of persons who have visited it. On the top of the rock the surface is a little rounding something like a large mound with large masses of loose rock lying scattered around. Proceeding forward you descend, when nearly half way of the length, to a considerably lower surface which continues some distance and then rises high again to about the same height as the first section. On the top there are a number of small pools of water, no doubt collected during heavy rains and having no chance to run off, they stand until evaporated into the atmosphere. Some of the pools are eight inches deep and taste like rain water. It is more difficult descending from the rock than to ascend it on account of its being hard and slippery and nothing to hang on, and a visitor has to be careful or he will arrive on the ground with bruised limbs. At three o'clock p.m. they started on and on arriving at the rock found it to be one and a quarter miles from noon halt. We put up a guide board opposite the rock with this inscription on it. "To Fort John 175¼ miles. Pioneers, June 21, 1847. W. R." The letters W. R. are branded on all the guide boards at the doctor's request so as to have a mark that the Saints might know; and his brand is generally known by the Saints. After traveling on the banks of the river one mile beyond the rock, we forded over and found it nearly three feet deep in the channel. All the wagons got over without difficulty or much loss of time. We then continued a southwest course four and a half miles farther and arrived opposite Devil's Gate which lies a little to the west of the road; and a quarter of a mile beyond this, the road passes between two high ridges of granite, leaving a surface of about two rods of level ground on each side the road. The road then bends to the west and a quarter of a mile farther, passes over a small creek two feet wide but bad crossing on account of its being deep and muddy, requiring caution in the teamsters to prevent accident. President Young, Kimball and others went to view the north side of Devil's Gate and returning reported that the devils would not let them pass, or meaning that it was impossible to go through the gateway so called. We proceeded on a little farther and at 6:35 formed our encampment on the bank of the river having traveled this afternoon seven and three quarters miles, and during the day fifteen and a quarter. The feed here is good and plentiful and a little cedar can be obtained at the foot of one of the rocky ridges about a quarter of a mile back. After we had camped I went back to view the Devil's Gate where the river runs between two high rocky ridges for the distance of about 200 yards. The rock on the east side is perpendicular and was found by a barometrical measurements by Elder Pratt to be 399 feet 4¼ inches high. The one on the west side is about the same height but not perpendicular bending a little from the river gradually to the top. The river has a channel of about three rods in width through this pass which increases its swiftness and, dashing furiously against the huge fragments of rock which have fallen from the mountain, makes a roar which can be heard plainly in the camp. One of the brethren fired off his rifle at the foot of the rock and the report resembled much like that of a cannon. Others tumbled fragments of rocks from a projection at the entrance about 150 feet high, which made a very loud rumbling sound caused by the echoes. The scenery is one of romantic grandeur and it seems wonderful how the river could ever find a channel through such a mass of heavy, solid rock. The view from this evening's encampment over the surrounding country is sublime. To the east, south, and southwest the Sweet Water mountains tower high and appear spotted with snow; and about twenty to thirty miles distance from the river to the west are also hills and ridges interspersed as far as the eye can reach, except the land immediately on the river which appears even for many miles. These high, barren, rocky ridges on the north side of the river seem to continue for many miles.
Morning fine. At 7:20 we continued our journey and about 200 yards from where we camped, crossed a very crooked creek about six feet wide descending from the southwest. After traveling three miles over heavy, sandy roads, we crossed another creek about six feet wide; and three and three quarters miles farther, a creek two feet wide. Somewhere near this last creek, Brother Lorenzo Young broke one of his axle trees which detained him some time. One of the Missourian companies came up soon after the accident and took his load into one of their wagons and by splicing a piece of wood on his axle tree, he was enabled to follow our camp. At 11:55 we halted on the banks of the river, having traveled ten miles over a very sandy, barren land, there being no grass only on the creeks and river banks. During the halt, Elder Pratt took an observation and found the latitude of this place 42° 28' 25". President Young went back to meet Lorenzo but soon found he was coming on with the Missourian company who were approaching near us. He immediately turned about and on arriving back gave orders to get up the teams and proceed so as to keep ahead of the other company who say they have traveled from Independence Rock without halting. However, they passed before we could start and got ahead of us. The day has been hot and a little wind. At 2:25 we continued, finding the road again leaving the river. At half a mile, we passed a very large lake on our left which covers an area of over 80 acres of land. Its banks are mostly white with the alkali or saleratus. After passing this lake the road runs south, passing between high sandy bluffs after which it again turns around gradually towards the west and descending a steep bluff over very heavy, sandy land. After traveling five and three quarters miles crossed a creek about six feet wide and a foot deep. The bank on each side is very steep and sandy, making it difficult for teams to get up. Here Sterling Driggs had his harness broken to pieces by his horses springing suddenly when attempting to rise out of the creek. They cleared themselves from the wagon which was hauled up by a yoke of oxen so as not to hinder the rest from crossing. The banks of this creek are well lined with sage instead of grass which is very large and thick on the ground on account of which Elder Kimball named this Sage creek. After passing this creek one and three quarters miles we again arrived on the banks of the river and continued to travel near to it. At two and a quarter miles farther crossed a creek three feet wide, but not much to be depended on for water. At 7:50 we formed our encampment at the foot of a very high gravelly bluff and near the river, having traveled this afternoon ten and three quarters miles and during the day twenty and three quarters miles over mostly a very sandy road. This is a very good camp ground, there being plenty of grass for our teams which is well worth traveling a few miles extra. From this place the country seems fortified by hills and mountains especially on the west. Lewis Barney and Joseph Hancock have each killed an antelope during the day, but there appears to be no buffalo in the neighborhood.
Morning fine and warm. After breakfast I went to the top of the high bluff expecting to get a good view of the country west but was disappointed in consequence of the many ridges or bluffs but a little distance beyond us. At seven o'clock the camp moved forward and immediately after saw a graveyard on the left of the road with a board stuck up with these words written on it: "Matilda Crowley. B. July 16th, 1830, and D. July 7, 1846." On reflecting afterward that some of the numerous emigrants who had probably started with a view to spend the remainder of their days in the wild Oregon, had fallen by the way and their remains had to be left by their friends far from the place of destination, I felt a renewed anxiety that the Lord will kindly preserve the lives of all my family, that they may be permitted to gather to the future home of the Saints, enjoy the society of the people of God for many years to come, and when their days are numbered that their remains may be deposited at the feet of the servants of God, rather than be left far away in a wild country. And oh, Lord, grant this sincere desire of thy servant in the name of Thy Son Jesus. Amen. After traveling one and a half miles we crossed a very shoal stream of clear, cold water about five feet wide. There is but little grass here although a number of bitter cottonwood trees grow on the banks. There being no name on the map for this creek, it was named Bitter Cottonwood Creek to designate it in our future travel. It is probable that this stream is caused by the melting of the snow on the mountains and if so, could not be depended on for a camp ground late in the summer. After passing this creek, the river runs between some of the high rocky ridges, the road at the same time bending a little southwest to pass around them. After traveling five miles beyond the last mentioned creek, we again descended to the banks of the river where would be a pretty good camp ground although the grass is not so plentiful as in many other places on the banks of the river. We traveled till 11:05 on the river banks then halted for noon where the road and river separated a little farther and hence we would probably not find grass again for a number of miles. The land continues very sandy making it hard on teams; our course about west, the day very warm with a light south breeze. We traveled eight and a half miles this morning. There are some small cedar trees on the rocky bluffs which is the only timber seen since we passed the Bitter Cottonwood. Latitude of this place 42° 31' 20". At 1:10 we continued our journey and after proceeding half a mile, found the river turns between the granite ridges in a northwest direction and seems to have but a narrow space to pass through in several places. The road at the same place turns south to avoid the ridges for over a mile and then bends to the southwest for some distance farther. The road at the foot of these rocky hills is extremely sandy and heavy traveling. On arriving at the south side of the hills, we were suddenly cheered with a very plain view of the Wind river chain of the Rocky Mountains towering high up in the air and perfectly white with snow. Some of the peaks appear to run up very high, but we are evidently many miles from them yet. After we passed this place, the road gradually bends to the west and northwest and at the distance of six and three quarters miles from our noon halt brings us to the banks of the river again. We continued on the banks of the river till 6:20, at which time we formed our encampment, having traveled this afternoon eight and a half miles and during the day seventeen. As usual there is plenty of grass on the river banks but no wood. There are some dry buffalo chips and wild sage which answer tolerably well for cooking. The land over which we have traveled, except in the several places above mentioned, is perfectly barren except for wild sage which abounds, but there is scarcely a spear of grass to be seen. These granite ridges continue from the Rock Independence to this place, mostly on the north side the river. Here they recede from the river a few miles and then cease. There are two of the Missourian companies camped, one about a half a mile and the other a mile west of us and we are given to understand we have got a long distance to travel without grass or water. It is stated that a man from one of these companies left his company a few days ago and went ahead to examine the route, etc. On their arrival here they found him in one of these rocky hills hid up for fear of the Indians. He reports that he has been to the pass and that we shall find water about fourteen miles from here. He has come from the pass in two nights and hid up in the day time to avoid Indians, but has seen none. He says it is not over twenty-eight miles to the pass from here. After we camped, Burr Frost set up his forge and set some wagon tires and repaired the wheels of the wagons for one of the Missourians. There are no buffalo to be seen yet and not much game of any kind. Lewis Barney killed two antelope and the brethren mostly killed one or two every day. The Sweet Water mountains do not appear very high but have considerable snow lying on them in some places. They appear to run nearly parallel with the river to about from twenty to thirty miles distance to the south.
Morning fine but cool. It was calculated to make an early start so as to pass the two companies of the Missourians and get the best chance for feed at night, but they started out a half an hour before we were ready. We proceeded onward at 6:15 and a little over a mile from where we camped, found the river again bending northwest while the road continues near a west course and soon rises a high bluff. On the top of this, we appear to have a level road for many miles. After traveling five miles from morning, we arrived at a level strip of land on the north side of the road where there is plenty of grass and apparently swampy and soft. It extends in the same direction with the road a mile and a half and appears to terminate where the road crosses the lower land although the grass and hollow continue southward for some distance. Just above where the road crosses at the west end there is some water standing around a small, circular, swampy spot of land probably about a half an acre. Near the edge at the northwest corner is a hole dug which is called the Ice Spring. The water in the hole smells strong of sulphur or alkali and is not pleasant tasting, but under the water which is over a foot deep there is as clear ice as I ever saw and good tasting. Some of the brethren had broken some pieces off which floated and I ate some of it which tasted sweet and pleasant. The ice is said to be four inches thick. The water is very cold although the weather is warm. A quarter of a mile farther than the spring, there is a small lake or spring of alkali on the left of the road and a little farther, still another lake. The latter is more pleasant tasting than the other, not being so strong of sulphur. It tastes very much like lye water mixed with salt. The ground around these lakes is white with alkali or saleratus and a number of the brethren picked up their pails full but we have learned that it ought to be used with care, it being so much stronger than common saleratus, if the same quantity is used it makes the bread quite green. After traveling from the ice spring ten and a quarter miles over a very uneven road, we descended a very steep bluff close in the rear of one of the Missourian companies. The other had halted a few miles ahead and we passed by them. While winding around and descending from this bluff we came in sight of the river again and about the same time. Elder Kimball picked up an Indian arrow point made of flint stone and nearly perfect. It was almost as white as alabaster. At 3:30 we tarried a little south from the road and formed our encampment in a line so as to enclose a bend in the river, having traveled seventeen and three quarters miles without halting on account of there being no water fit for cattle to drink. The feed here is very good and plenty of willow bushes for fuel. The river is about three rods wide and clearer and very cool. The last five or six miles of the road were not so sandy but hard and good traveling. One of the Missourian companies have gone on, but the other camped a piece down the river at the fording place. A while before dark when the brethren were fetching up their teams, John Holman, while bringing up President Young's best horse, having his loaded rifle in his hand, the horse undertook to run back past him and to prevent his running back, he jammed his gun at him. The cock caught in his clothes, the gun went off lodging the ball in the animal's body. It entered a little forward of the nigh hind leg on the under side of his belly making quite a large hole. The horse walked to camp but it is the opinion of many he cannot survive long. He appears to be in great pain, the sweat falling from his forehead in large drops. President Young is evidently filled with deep sorrow on account of this accident but attaches no blame to John who seems grieved very much. The brethren generally feel sorrowful, this being the second horse shot by accident on this mission.
President Young's horse is dead. The morning is fine but very cool. At twenty minutes to seven o'clock, we pursued our journey fording the river a quarter of a mile below where AVC left the road last night. We found it still nearly three feet deep and the current very swift. After proceeding a half a mile beyond the ford, we crossed a stream about a rod wide which appears to come from the northeast and empties into the river a little farther up. Half a mile beyond this stream, we turned from the river to the northwest and began to ascend a very high bluff which we found pretty steep and over a mile and a half to the top. The road then gradually bends around towards the river and begins to descend over hill and hollow and at four and a quarter miles from where we camped, strikes the river again and continues a quarter of a mile on its banks. Here would be a pretty good place to camp, there being sufficient grass for a large company. After traveling a quarter of a mile near the river we encountered another high sandy ridge, the road again winding to the north to cross it. The descent on the west side is very steep and unpleasant. We strike the river again after traveling one and a quarter miles from where we last left it, but it is the opinion of many that by fording the river twice at the foot of the ridge we could save a mile and they think it can be forded. Colonel Rockwood has paid particular attention to the place and reports that one hour's labor for 100 men would dig down the foot of the ridge so as to make it good passing and save rising the ridge and a mile's travel without fording the river. After leaving the west foot of this ridge, we crossed a stream about twenty-five feet wide and again a quarter of a mile farther the same, only about six feet wide. On examining it, we found it to be a branch of the river running around a piece of land about a quarter of a mile across and forming a semi-circular island. The last crossing was soft on both banks. The high sandy bluffs on each side the river seem to approach much nearer to each other and leave only a small strip of low land on each bank. At 11:20 passed a creek two feet wide and halted for noon having traveled eight and three quarters miles, the wind blowing very strong from the northwest and making it cold and unpleasant traveling and filling the wagons with dust. The latitude at this halt by Elder Pratt's observation is 42° 28' 36". At 1:20 we proceeded again, our road running on the river banks two miles then turning to the northwest and ascending a succession of hills one after another for three miles farther, winding around and over hill and valley in some places over a good hard road, and in other places over rocks and broken fragments of rock, making it severe on wagons and requiring great care in teamsters. About a half mile north of the road at the top of this ridge there is a heavy bank of snow which some of the brethren went to visit and amused themselves by snowballing each other. Brother Carrington says there is every appearance of a rich lead mine in the same place, he having examined the place minutely. The brethren brought some snow to the wagons and we ate some of it which tasted refreshing in the heat of the day. After arriving on the top of these ridges we began to descend gradually over rolling land, but the descent is not nearly equal to the ascent. At the distance of seven and a quarter miles from noon halt, we crossed a narrow wet swamp quite difficult for teams to get the loads over without help and one and a quarter miles beyond the swamp a creek a foot wide and a quarter of a mile farther still another one two feet wide. These all unite in one about 200 yards to the left below the middle creek and then appear to pass under a snow bank which at present forms a kind of bridge over the creek. At 6:45 we formed our encampment on the north banks of a creek about five feet wide, having traveled this afternoon eleven and a half miles and during the day twenty and a quarter. This creek is very clear and cold. Its banks are well lined with willows and about a mile below the camp there is a grove of white poplar in which house logs may be obtained sixteen feet long and a foot through. There are several banks of snow a little to the north and some of the brethren have found ice four or five inches thick and brought a quantity of it to camp. On the banks of the creek there are some groves of gooseberry bushes with small green berries on them. There are also some strawberry roots and flowers and a little white clover has been found, but there is yet no appearance of the great abundance of such things as travelers have represented. The land appears somewhat more likely to yield the nearer we approach to the mountains, but all calculations for farming in this region would be likely to fail on account of the scarcity of timber. It would only be natural to suppose that the nights are very cold here, while so much snow lies around. It requires considerable clothing to keep comfortable, but in the middle of the day it is equally hot. Some of the brethren have traveled up the banks of the Sweet Water river and represent it as tumbling and foaming over rocks and descending very rapidly on account of the great rise of the ground from noon halt to this place. They say it runs within a mile and a half south of this but it is probable it is only a branch of it as we are evidently not near the main branch yet. There is one of the gentile companies camped about a mile below, making the third company we have passed lately and it is the intention to keep ahead of them and have the advantage of the good feed and camping grounds.
Morning very cold and considerable ice froze in the water pails during the night. At 7:40 we crossed the creek and pursued our journey. At one mile we passed a small creek which rises from springs a little south of the road where there is a small grove of small timber. Elder Pratt has gone ahead with the barometer to try to find the culminating point or highest dividing ridge of the South Pass as we are evidently at the east foot of the pass. Fremont represents that he did not discover the highest point on account of the ascent being so gradual that they were beyond it before they were aware of it, although in company with a man who has traveled it back and forth for seventeen years. At two and three-quarters miles beyond the last small creek, we crossed the branch of the Sweet Water about two rods wide and two feet deep, the water clear and cold. This would be a good camp ground were it not so cold, as it must be from the fact that large deep banks of snow are now lying on its banks both above and below the road. Where the snow doesn't lie, there is good grass and plenty of willow groves for fuel. Two and a quarter miles beyond this branch we crossed another stream about eight feet wide on an average, though where the ford is, it is nearly three rods wide and two feet deep. This water is also very clear and the banks well lined with willows and grass. It is considered a superior camping ground to the one back. There seem to be a great many antelope at the foot of the mountains which is about all the game to be seen. After crossing the last stream, we climb another high range of hills over a good road, gently rolling. From the top of this is a pleasant view of the surrounding country but all entirely destitute of timber except on and at the base of the mountains many miles distance from the road. We have also a good view of Table Rock to the southwest as well as the high, broken, white capped chain of the Wind River mountains on the north. At 12:40 we halted on the main branch of the Sweet Water having traveled eleven miles. The river here is about three rods wide, three feet deep and current very swift. The water is clear and cold as the snow which lies on its banks in places six or eight feet deep. This is a lovely place for a camp ground, there being abundance of good, rich grass about eight inches high and plenty of willows for fuel. Some of the boys and girls amused themselves by snowballing each other on one of the large snow banks a few rods below the camp. Soon after we halted Eric Glines came up, having left the brethren at the upper ferry on the Platte River on Wednesday morning. He camped one night alone, the other nights he camped with Missourians. He does not assign any reason why he followed us, but evidently considering to repent and obey council than to continue obstinate and rebellious. The weather is now warm and pleasant and but little wind. At 2:20 we moved onward, ascending again on pretty high land where we found good traveling. The latitude at our noon halt was 42° 22' 42". After traveling seven miles this afternoon we arrived on a level spot of lower land and some grass, and inasmuch as we have found no stream as laid down on Fremont's map since leaving the Sweet Water, neither is there much appearance of any for some miles farther, the wagons halted while President Young and some others went over the ridge to the north to look for a camp ground as some of the brethren said the Sweet Water was close by. President Young soon sent a message for the camp to proceed, leaving the road and taking a northwest course. At 6:45 we formed our encampment on the banks of the Sweet Water, at the distance of a little over a quarter of a mile from the road, having traveled this afternoon seven and a quarter miles, and during the day eighteen and a quarter. This is a good place to camp, there being plenty of grass and willows. There are many small pebbles of hard flint rock on the flat land a little back and some almost as clear as glass. Elders Kimball, Pratt and some others are some miles ahead and not having returned at dark, a number of the brethren were sent to meet them. They soon returned in company with Elder Kimball who reported that he had been on as much as six miles to where the head waters of the Atlantic divide from those of the Pacific--that Elder Pratt was camped there with a small party of men direct from Oregon and bound for the U. S. It is now a certainty that we are yet two miles short of the dividing ridge of the South Pass by the road. This ridge divides the headwaters of the Atlantic from those of the Pacific and although not the highest land we have traveled over, it may with propriety be said to be the summit of the South Pass. The Wind River mountains appear very high from this place but on the south there is very little appearance of mountains, Table Rock itself appearing but a little elevated.
Morning fine but cold. The ox teams started at five minutes to eight and the remainder shortly after. We soon met eight of the Oregon men on their way back having over twenty horses and mules with them mostly laden with packs of robes, skins, etc. Several of the brethren sent letters back by them. At two and three-quarters miles, arrived at the dividing ridge where Elder Pratt took a barometrical observation and found the altitude 7,085 feet above the level of the sea. This spot is 278½ miles from Fort John and is supposed to divide the Oregon and Indian Territory by a line running north and south. At two miles farther we arrived at where Elder Pratt camped last night on the head waters of the Green River and although the stream is small, we have the satisfaction of seeing the current run west instead of east. The face of the country west looks level except far in the distance where a range of mountains peers up, their surface white with snow. There is good grass here but no timber nor in fact any in sight except on the mountains. Since leaving the pass we have descended considerably, winding around and between high bluffs or hills, but the road is good. One of the Oregon men is returning with us today and then intends to wait for the next companies, etc., and act as a pilot for them. His name is Harris and he appears to be extensively known in Oregon and the subject of much dispute on account of his having found out a new route to Oregon much south of the old one. He appears to be a man of intelligence and well acquainted with the western country. He presented a file of the Oregon papers commencing with February 11, 1847, and five following numbers for our perusal during the day. He also presented a number of the California Star published at Yerba Buena by Samuel Brannan and edited by E. P. Jones. I had the privilege of perusing several of these papers during the day but found little interesting news. Mr. Harris says he is well acquainted with the Bear River valley and the region around the salt lake. From his description, which is very discouraging, we have little chance to hope for even a moderately good country anywhere in those regions. He speaks of the whole region as being sandy and destitute of timber and vegetation except the wild sage. He gives the most favorable account of a small region under the Bear River mountains called the Cache Valley where they have practiced caching their robes, etc., to hide them from the Indians. He represents this as being a fine place to winter cattle. After halting some time we proceeded onward and crossed the stream which is about three feet wide, then halted on its banks at twelve o'clock, having traveled six and a quarter miles, the day warm. The latitude at this halt was 42° 18' 58". At 2:25 we started again and proceeded over gently rolling land and good hard road till 6:40 when we formed our encampment on the west banks of the Dry Sandy, having traveled this afternoon nine miles and during the day fifteen and a quarter. The country west for many miles appears destitute of timber and the view is very extensive. There is very little grass to be seen anywhere and not much near this creek. There is but little water in the creek at first sight, but by digging and tramping on the quick sand, sufficient can easily be obtained to supply a large company. Elder Kimball has been on the road nearly two miles farther but discovered no chance for a camping ground better than this. Mr. Harris has described a valley forty miles above the mouth of the Bear River, and thirty miles below the Bear Springs which might answer our purpose pretty well if the report is true. It is about thirty miles long and fifteen miles wide and tolerably well timbered. We generally feel that we shall know best by going ourselves for the reports of travelers are so contradictory it is impossible to know which is the truth without going to prove it. It is three years today since our brethren Joseph and Hyrum were taken from us and it was the general feeling to spend the day in fasting and prayer but the gentile companies being close in our rear and feed scarce, it was considered necessary to keep ahead of them for the benefit of our teams, but many minds have reverted back to the scenes at Carthage jail, and it is a gratification that we have so far prospered in our endeavors to get from under the grasp of our enemies.
Morning fine but cool. Many of the brethren are trading with Mr. Harris for pants, jackets, shirts, etc., made of buckskins and also the skins themselves. He sells them high. The skins at $1.50 and $2.00; a pair of pants $3.00, etc. He will take rifles, powder, lead, caps or calico and domestic shirts in exchange but puts his own price on both sides and it is difficult to obtain even a fair trade. At half past seven we proceeded on our journey, Mr. Harris waiting for the other companies. After traveling six miles the road forks, one continuing a west course, the other taking a southwest course. We took the left hand road which leads to California. This junction of the road is 297½ miles from Fort John. We then continued to travel over a desert land yielding nothing but wild sage and occasionally a grass root and weeds until 1:30 when we arrived and halted for noon on the banks of the Little Sandy, having traveled thirteen and a half miles without signs of wood, water or feed for our teams. This stream is about twenty feet wide on an average but at the fording place over three rods, two and a half feet deep, muddy water and swift current. There is not much grass and no timber except willow bushes. There is a variety of roots bearing very handsome colored flowers. One of the brethren has picked up a large piece of petrified wood. It resembles the outside layer of a cottonwood tree next to the bark, and appears to have rotted and broken off short then petrified and turned to a solid, heavy, hard, flint stone, but retaining its original shape and appearance. At 4:15 we commenced fording the river and found it in no way difficult until a number of the wagons had gotten over and the banks began to be soft and muddy. Several of the latter teams required help. At 4:45 all were safely over with no loss except two tar buckets considered to be of no worth. We then proceeded on, expecting to go about eight miles farther, but after traveling a little over a mile we were met by Elder G. A. Smith who introduced us to Mr. Bridger of Bridger's Fort on his way to Fort John in company with two of his men. Mr. Bridger being informed that we had designed to call at his place to make some inquiries about the country, etc., he said if we would turn off the road here and camp, he would stay with us till morning. A camping place being selected we turned off from the road about a quarter of a mile and formed our encampment near the Sandy at six o'clock, having traveled this afternoon one and three-quarters miles, exclusive of allowance for leaving the road, and during the day fifteen and a quarter miles. We have pretty good feed here, enough to fill the teams well. A while after we camped, the twelve and several others went to Mr. Bridger to make some inquiries concerning our future route, the country, etc. It was impossible to form a correct idea of either from the very imperfect and irregular way he gave his descriptions, but the general items are in substance as follows:
We will find better grass as we proceed farther on. His business is to Fort Laramie. His traders have gone there with robes, skins, etc., to fill a contract, but having started later than they intended the men at Laramie have taken advantage of the delay and he is going to see to the business himself. There is no blacksmith shop at his fort at present. There was one but it was destroyed. There have been nearly a hundred wagons gone on the Hastings route through Weber's Fork. They cross the Blacks Fork and go a little south of west from his place and pass below the mountains which cross Green river. The Green river runs over an extent of country of 400 miles. It is impossible for wagons to follow down Green river, neither can it be followed with boats. Some have gone down with canoes, but had great difficulty getting back on account of the rapid current and rough channel. Cannot pass the mountains close to the river even with horses. For some distance beyond this chain of mountains, the country is level and beyond that it is hard black rock which looks as if it were glazed when the sun shines on it, and so hard and sharp it will cut a horse's feet to pieces. When we get below the mountains, the Green River falls into a level country for some distance after which it winds through a mountainous country perfectly barren to the Gulf of California. From Bridger's fort to the salt lake, Hastings said was about one hundred miles. He has been through fifty times but can form no correct idea of the distance. Mr. Hastings' route leaves the Oregon route at his place. We can pass the mountains farther south, but in some places we would meet with heavy bodies of timber and would have to cut our way through. In the Bear River valley there is oak timber, sugar trees, cottonwood, pine and maple. There is not an abundance of sugar maple but plenty of as splendid pine as he ever saw. There is no timber on the Utah Lake only on the streams which empty into it. In the outlet of the Utah Lake which runs into the salt lake there is an abundance of blue grass and red and white clover. The outlet of the Utah Lake does not form a large river, neither a rapid current but the water is muddy and low banks. Some of his men have been around the salt lake in canoes. They went out hunting and had their horses stolen by the Indians. They then went around the lake in canoes hunting beaver and were three months going around it. They said it was 550 miles around it. The Utah tribe of Indians inhabit the region around the Utah Lake and are a bad people. If they catch a man alone they are sure to rob and abuse him if they don't kill him, but parties of men are in no danger. They are mostly armed with guns. There was a man opened a farm in the Bear River valley. The soil is good and likely to produce corn were it not for the excessive cold nights which he thinks would prevent the growth of corn. There is a good country south of the Utah Lake or southeast of the great basin. There are three large rivers which enter into the Sevier Lake unknown to travelers. There is also a splendid range of country on the north side of the California mountains calculated to produce every kind of grain and fruit and there are several places where a man might pass from it over the mountains to the California settlements in one day. There is a vast abundance of timber and plenty of coal. There is also plenty of coal in this region near the mountains. North of the California mountains there is walnut, oak, ash, hickory, and various kinds of good timber on and in the neighborhood of the mountains and streams southeast of the great basin. There can be a wagon road made through to it and no lack of water. The great desert extends from the salt lake to the Gulf of California which is perfectly barren. He supposes it to have been an arm of the sea. The three rivers before mentioned are southwest of the desert. There is a tribe of Indians in that country who are unknown to either travelers or geographers. They make farms and raise abundance of grain of various kinds. He can buy any quantity of the very best of wheat there. This country lies southeast of the salt lake. There is one mountain in that region and the country adjoining in which he considers if ever there was a promised land, that must be it. There is a kind of cedar grows on it which bears fruit something like juniper berries of a yellow color about the size of an ordinary plum. The Indians grind the fruit and it makes the best kind of meal. He could easily gather a hundred bushels off one tree. He has lived on this fruit and used to pick his hat full in a very short time. There are a great many little streams head in this mountain and many good springs. It is about twenty days' travel with horses from the salt lake, but the country to it is bad to get through and over a great part of it, nothing for animals to subsist on. He supposes there might be access to it from Texas. On one of the rivers there is a splendid copper mine, a whole mountain of it. It also abounds in gold, silver and has a good quick silver mine. There is iron, coal, etc. The land is good; the soil rich. All the valleys abound with persimmons and grapes which will make the best kind of wines. He never saw any grapes on the Utah Lake, but there are plenty of cherries and berries of several kinds. He thinks the Utah Lake is the best country in the vicinity of the Salt Lake and the country is still better the farther south we go until we meet the desert which is upwards of 200 miles south from the Utah Lake. There is plenty of timber on all the streams and mountains and abundance of fish in the streams. There is timber all around the Utah Lake and plenty of good grass; not much of the wild sage only in small patches. Wild flax grows in most of the valleys and they are the richest lands. He passed through that country a year ago last summer in the month of July, and they generally had one or two showers every day, sometimes a very heavy thunder shower but not accompanied by strong wind. By following under the mountain south of the Utah Lake we find another river which enters into another lake about fifty miles south of the Utah Lake. We shall find plenty of water from here to Bridger's Fort except after we cross Green River and travel five miles beyond it where we shall have to travel eighteen or twenty miles without water, but there is plenty of grass. After crossing Green River we follow down it four or five miles to the old station then cross over to a stream which heads in the mountains west. The station is more than half way from here to his place. We shall have no streams to ferry between here and the fort except Green River. The Indians south of the Utah Lake and this side the desert raise corn, wheat and other kinds of grain and produce in abundance. The Utah's abound more on the west of the mountains near the salt lake than on the east side, ten to one, but we have no need to fear them for we can drive the whole of them in twenty-four hours but he would not kill them, he would make slaves of them. The Indians south of the Utah Lake raise as good corn, wheat, and pumpkins as were ever raised in old Kentucky. He knows of a lead mine between the mountains and Laramie on a timbered creek near the Horseshoe creek. He has found lead there and thinks there is considerable silver in it. It can be found in a cave on the side of the mountain not far from the road.
Such was the information we obtained from Mr. Bridger, but we shall know more about things and have a better understanding when we have seen the country ourselves. Supper had been provided for Mr. Bridger and his men and the latter having eaten, the council dismissed, Mr. Bridger going with President Young to supper, the remainder retiring to their wagons conversing over the subject touched upon. The evening was very fine but mosquitoes numerous.
Morning very pleasant till the sun got up a little, then it was very hot. We started at 7:40 and traveled over very good roads through barren land till 10:45 then halted for noon on the banks of the Big Sandy, having traveled six and three-quarters miles. The second division have passed over the river but the first division halted on the north side. This stream appears to be about seven rods wide at this place and about two feet deep in the channel, but it is not generally so wide, but deeper. There is some timber on its banks and plenty of grass in places for teams. At 1:30 we again proceeded, President Young and some others going ahead in the cutter wagon to look out a camp ground for the night. Our course still lies about southwest, the road generally good over gently rolling, hard, sandy land and in some places the surface is covered with loose fragments of hard rock. After traveling nine and a half miles President Young rode up and reported that we would have to go at least six miles farther before we could get feed. It was then a quarter after six, but the teamsters spurred up in order to get through. Most of the road after this for four miles was very hilly and uneven and in places the loose fragments of rocks made it very bad traveling, but many were thrown from the road by the spare men. The weather grew cooler towards evening, some large clouds rising in the west which favored the teams considerably. At 9:05 we found ourselves on the lowlands on the banks of the river again and formed our encampment, having traveled since noon seventeen miles and during the day twenty-three and three-quarters, which is the greatest day's journey we have made since leaving Winter Quarters. The camp was formed by moonlight. There seems to be plenty of feed for teams but no wood for fuel. Many of the brethren have gone down sick within the past three days and a number more this evening. They generally begin with headache, succeeded by violent fever, and some go delirious for a while. Brother Fowler was seized this afternoon and this evening is raving. It is supposed by some that this sickness is caused by the use of the mineral saleratus or alkali picked up on the lakes and surface of the land and it is considered poisonous. Some consider also that we inhale the effluvium arising from it, which has the like effect. It appears to be an article which ought to be used with great care if used at all. There has been no case considered dangerous yet, nor any of long duration.
Morning hot. We resumed our journey at 8:15, several others of the brethren being reported sick. President Young, Kimball and others rode ahead again. We found the roads very good but sandy and filling the wagons with dust. At 11:30 we arrived on the banks of Green River, having traveled eight miles and formed our encampment in a line under the shade of the cottonwood timber. This river is about sixteen to eighteen rods wide and altogether too deep to be forded. Its banks are well lined with cottonwood but none large enough to make a canoe. There are also many patches of wild apple trees, and rose bushes abound bearing pretty roses. This river is 338½ miles from Fort John or Laramie. There is a narrow strip of land which might answer for farming on each bank of the river. The grass grows good and plentiful but still not so much as has been represented. After dinner the brethren commenced making two rafts, one for each division, and a while afterwards Elder Samuel Brannan arrived, having come from the Pacific to meet us, obtain council, etc. He is accompanied by Smith of the firm of Jackson Heaton & Bonney, bogus snakers of Nauvoo. There is another young man in company with them. They have come by way of Fort Hall and brought with them several files of the California Star. They had eleven deaths on board their ship during their voyage over, the others I understand are doing well, raising grain, etc. Towards evening a storm blew up from the west and although we had no rain we had tremendous wind. The first division finished their raft before dark. There is a slough a little down the river where some of the brethren have caught some very nice fish, but the mosquitoes are so very troublesome it is difficult abiding out of doors.
This morning found myself laboring under a severe attack of the fever, accompanied with violent aching in my head and limbs. The brethren commenced ferrying but got only fourteen wagons over on account of the very high wind.
The day was more pleasant and the ferrying continued more rapidly. I got over the river before noon but remained very sick. Afternoon the twelve had a council and decided to send three or four men back to serve as guides to the next company.
The morning more unfavorable. The brethren got the last wagon over before noon, no accident having happened, and about the time they finished it commenced raining, accompanied by thunder and wind. It was concluded for some of the brethren to go on and look out a camp ground a few miles ahead so as to shorten the distance of the next day's travel. The brethren returned about noon and gave orders to harness up and proceed, and at 3:15 we moved forward and went on three miles, then formed encampment in the midst of an army of mosquitoes. These insects are more numerous here than I ever saw them anywhere, everything was covered with them, making the teams restive in the wagons. There is plenty of grass for teams and it is the intention to tarry here till Monday morning. At night President Young gave the brethren some instructions about trading at Fort Bridger and advised them to be wise, etc. Five men were selected to go back and meet the next company, viz., Phineas Young, George Woodard, Aaron Farr, Eric Glines and Rodney Badger. They are to take the cutter wagon instead of each taking a horse which cannot be spared by the camp.
The morning fine and warm. The five brethren have started back to meet the other company. President Young, Kimball and others went back with them to ferry them over Green River. Some of the brethren assembled for meeting in the circle. At 2:30 p.m. the brethren returned from the ferry accompanied by twelve of the Pueblo brethren from the army. They have got their discharge and by riding hard overtaken us. They feel well and on arriving in camp gave three cheers, after which President Young moved that we give glory to God which was done by hosannas. William Walker was with them but has gone back with the five brethren to meet his wife. The spot where we are now camped is opposite to the junction of the Big Sandy and Green River. On the other side the river there is a range of singular sandy buttes perfectly destitute of vegetation, and on the sides can be seen from here, two caves which are probably inhabited by wild bears. The view is pleasant and interesting. During the afternoon one of Brother Crow's oxen was found to be poisoned through eating some kind of a weed and was much swollen. I understand it was dead when they found it.
At eight o'clock we pursued our journey, many of the brethren still being sick though generally improving. After traveling three and a half miles on the bank of the river the road then leaves it bending westward. We have now a very pleasant view of the Bear River mountains far to the southwest, their summits capped with snow. We found the land somewhat rolling, destitute of grass and several very steep places of descent. At 4:45 we arrived on the banks of Blacks Fork and formed our encampment, having traveled twenty miles, the last sixteen and a half without sight of water. This stream is about six rods wide, very swift current but not deep. The bottoms on each side are very pleasant but not much grass for teams. There is one place in the road where we might have saved a crook of nearly a mile by digging down bank which would probably have detained us about twenty minutes, but it was not discovered till most of the wagons had passed over.
Morning very pleasant. We started on our journey at 7:50 and after traveling three and three-quarters miles, crossed Hams Fork, a rapid stream about three rods wide and two feet deep; and this would be a good place to camp, there being an abundance of high bunch grass on the banks. One and a half miles farther we crossed Blacks Fork which appears to be about eight rods wide and two and a half feet deep, but little grass near it. We then leave the river and wind over uneven road with many pitches caused by heavy rains washing the land, which is generally barren. After traveling eleven miles beyond the last stream, crossed a small creek about two feet wide but no grass. At four o'clock we crossed back over Blacks Fork and formed our encampment on its banks, having traveled eighteen and a quarter miles. At this place there is a fine specimen of the wild flax which grows all around. It is considered equal to any cultivated, bears a delicate blue flower. There is also an abundance of the rich bunch grass in the neighborhood of the river back and many wild currants. The prairies are lined with beautiful flowers of various colors--chiefly blue, red and yellow, which have a rich appearance and would serve to adorn and beautify an eastern flower garden.
This morning we proceeded at 7:35 and after traveling two and a half miles, forded Black's Fork once more. Here also is abundance of good grass, wild flax and handsome flowers. After traveling two and three-quarters miles farther, forded a stream about two rods wide and two feet deep, very swift current, also lined on its banks with bunch grass. At twelve o'clock we halted for noon on the banks of the last stream, having traveled nine miles over pretty rough road. The day very windy and filling the wagons with dust. Some of the wagons have gone on expecting to reach Bridger's Fort before they halt. At 1:40 we moved forward and found the road more even, though in many places rendered bad by the cobble stones. After traveling seven and a half miles we arrived opposite to nine Indian lodges erected on the south of the road. Here we halted a while and found Tim Goodale here, one of the trappers who passed us at the Platte ferry. There are not many Indians here but they appear to have a great many handsome ponies. We then continued on and after fording four creeks on an average about a rod wide, we arrived at Fort Bridger which is proved by the roadometer to be 397 miles from Fort John. We went half a mile beyond the fort and formed our encampment after crossing three more creeks, having traveled this afternoon eight and three-quarters miles and during the day seventeen and three-quarters. The grass is very plentiful in this neighborhood and much higher than we have generally seen it. The whole region seems filled with rapid streams all bending their way to the principal fork. They doubtless originate from the melting of the snow on the mountains and roar down their cobbly beds till they join Black's Fork. Bridger's Fort is composed of two double log houses about forty feet long each and joined by a pen for horses about ten feet high constructed by placing poles upright in the ground close together, which is all the appearance of a fort in sight. There are several Indian lodges close by and a full crop of young children playing around the door. These Indians are said to be of the Snake tribe, the Utahs inhabiting beyond the mountains. The latitude of Fort Bridget is 41° 19' 13" and its height above the level of the sea according to Elder Pratt's observations is 6,665 feet. It is doubtless a very cold region and little calculated for farming purposes. To the west is a pretty high mountain which appears well covered with timber. The country all around looks bleak and cold.
Morning fine but high wind. It is concluded to stay a day here to set some wagon tires, etc. Many have gone to trade their rifles and some clothing for buckskins. H. Egan traded two rifles and got twenty pretty good skins for them. The day continued warm with high wind. Evening there was a council and some complaints listened to from George Mills against Andrew Gibbons. It was decided for Thomas Williams and S. Brannan to return from here and meet Captain Brown's company from Pueblo. Inasmuch as the brethren have not received their discharge nor their paw from the United States, Brother Brannan goes to tender his services as pilot to conduct a company of fifteen or twenty to San Francisco if they feel disposed to go there and try to get their pay. Williams came clothed with authority to arrest Tim Goodale or one of his men for stealing a horse at Pueblo, but he can get no encouragement from President Young to make the attempt.
We started at eight o'clock, the brethren who go back bidding good bye to the camp and proceeding on their back journey while we moved westward over pretty rough roads. After traveling six and a quarter miles, we arrived at the springs and halted a while to rest our teams. We then proceeded on three-quarters of a mile and began to ascend a long steep hill, near the top of which and eight miles from Fort Bridger, Elder Pratt took an observation and found the latitude 41° 16' 11". Arriving on the top we found the table tolerably level for several miles then began to descend to the bottom again. The descent from this hill is the steepest and most difficult we have ever met with, being long and almost perpendicular. At three o'clock we crossed the Muddy Fork, a stream about twelve feet wide, and formed our encampment on the west bank, having traveled since the halt six and three-quarters miles and during the day thirteen. Here is plenty of tall bunch grass and a pretty good chance for our teams. The day has been windy, warm and dusty.
Started this morning at eight o'clock, weather warm with tolerably high wind. After traveling three and a half miles we passed a small copperas spring at the foot of a mountain a little to the left of the road. The water is very clear but tastes very strong of copperas and alum and has a somewhat singular effect on the mouth. It runs a little distance over the red sand which abounds in this region and where it is saturated with water almost looks like blood at a little distance. After passing this spring the road winds around the foot of mountains gradually ascending for some distance till finally arriving on the summit of a high ridge. Here Elder Pratt took a barometrical observation and found the height to be 7,315 feet above the level of the sea. On arriving at the west side of the ridge two and a half miles from the last mentioned spring we found a very steep, rough place to descend and found it necessary to halt and fix the road. About half way down there is a place over huge rocks, leaving barely enough room for a wagon to get down, but by labor it was soon made passable. A little farther, the brethren had to dig a place considerably to make a pass between the mountains. President Young and Kimball labored hard with a number of others and in about a half an hour made a good road. At twenty miles from Fort Bridger, passed another spring and a little farther after arriving on the bottom land, the road turns nearly south through a beautiful low bottom filled with grass. At 1:45 we halted for noon, having traveled nine miles. Latitude 41° 14' 21". After halting an hour and a half we proceeded again and after traveling three and a half miles began to ascend the dividing ridge between the Colorado waters and the great basin. This mountain is very high and the ascent steep, rendering it necessary to make a crooked road to gain the summit. The height is 7,700 feet according to Elder Pratt's observations. The surface at the top is narrow. Here three bears were seen to run over a still higher mountain on the left. The descent was very steep, having to lock the wagons for half a mile. We then descend and travel on the bottom a few miles between high rugged mountains till the road seems suddenly to be shut up by a high mountain ahead. The road here turns suddenly to the left and goes east about 200 yards then winds again southwest. After ascending and descending another high ridge, we crossed a small creek about ten feet wide and at 7:45 formed our encampment on the southwest banks, having traveled this afternoon nine miles and during the day eighteen over the most mountainous course we have yet seen. After camping, Mr. Miles Goodyear came into camp. He is the man who is making a farm in the Bear River valley. He says it is yet seventy-five miles to his place, although we are now within two miles of Bear River. His report of the valley is more favorable than some we have heard but we have an idea he is anxious to have us make a road to his place through selfish motives. Elder Pratt has found a beautiful spring of clear, sweet, cold water about a hundred yards southwest from the camp. Water excellent.
Morning fine with ice a quarter of an inch thick on the water pails. Walked on the mountain east with President Young and Kimball, from whence we had a pleasing view of the surrounding valley which is about ten miles wide. Abundance of timber on the mountains south and southwest and beyond that plenty of snow. After having prayers, we again descended and at the foot discovered a very strong sulphur spring. The surface of the water is covered with flour of sulphur and where it oozes from the rocks is perfectly black. The water in the creek shows sulphur very clearly and smells bad. During the day some of the brethren discovered an oil spring about a mile south. The substance which rises out of the ground resembles tar and is very oily. Some have oiled their gun stocks with it and oiled their shoes, others have gone to fill their tar buckets and are sanguine it will answer well to grease wagons. It is somewhat singular to find such a great contrast of substances within so short a distance. Here is pure water, sulphur, and oily tar within a mile of each other, and matter of curiosity all around for the contemplation of the curious. Porter, Brother Little and others have been out with Goodyear to view the route he wishes us to take. They represent it as being bad enough, but we are satisfied it leads too far out of our course to be tempted to try it. There are some in camp who are getting discouraged about the looks of the country but thinking minds are not much disappointed, and we have no doubt of finding a place where the Saints can live which is all we ought to ask or expect. It is evident the country grows better as we proceed west, and vegetation is more plentiful and looks richer. After dark, a meeting was called to decide which of the two roads we shall take from here. It was voted to take the right hand or northern road, but the private feelings of all the twelve were that the other would be better. But such matters are left to the choice of the camp so that none may have room to murmur at the twelve hereafter.
Morning cloudy and cool. We pursued our journey at 7:15. At one and a quarter miles rose a very steep, low hill, narrow but very steep on both sides. One half a mile farther crossed the Bear River, a very rapid stream about six rods wide and two feet deep, bottom full of large cobble stones, water clear, banks lined with willows and a little timber, good grass, many strawberry vines and the soil looks pretty good. About a half a mile beyond the ford, proceeded over another ridge and again descended into and traveled up a beautiful narrow bottom covered with grass and fertile but no timber. Four and three-quarters of a mile beyond Bear River, passed a small spring of good clear cold water. At 11:50 halted for noon in the same narrow bottom near a ridge of high, rough rocks to the right, having traveled nine and three-quarters miles. There is scarcely any wagon track to be seen, only a few wagons of Hasting's company having come this route; the balance went the other road and many of them perished in the snow; it being late in the season and much time was lost quarreling who would improve the roads, etc. There is a creek of clear water close by, deep but scarcely any current. President Young was taken very sick awhile before we halted. After resting two hours the camp moved on again, except President Young and Kimball's wagons, who concluded to remain there today on account of the President's sickness. After traveling one and a half miles we crossed the creek at the foot of a high mountain and a little farther crossed back again. A mile farther, began to ascend a long steep hill, narrow on the summit and steep descent. We then wound around between high hills till arriving again on a narrow rich bottom. At the foot of the hill we crossed last, there is a spring of very good cold water, and in fact, there are many good springs all along the road. At six o'clock we formed our encampment near a very small creek and a good spring, having traveled this afternoon six and three-quarters miles and during the day sixteen and a half. There is an abundance of grass here and the country appears to grow still richer as we proceed west, but very mountainous. There are many antelope on these mountains and the country is lovely enough but destitute of timber. About a quarter of a mile west from the camp is a cave in the rock about thirty feet long, fifteen feet wide and from four to six feet high. There are many martins at the entrance and on observing closely, can be seen myriads of small bugs. It is supposed from appearances that there is some property cached in the cave. Soon after we camped, we had a light shower accompanied by thunder. This country evidently lacks rain, even the grass appears parched.
Awhile before noon, Elder Kimball and Howard Egan arrived from the company back. A meeting was called but suddenly dispersed by a thunder shower. After the rain ceased, Elder Kimball proposed that a company start from the camp with Elder Pratt to proceed to the Weber River canyon and ascertain if we can pass through safely, if not, to try and find a pass over the mountains. He reported that President Young is a little better this morning, but last evening was insensible and raving. Colonel Rockwood is also very sick and quite deranged. A company of twenty-two wagons, mostly ox teams, started on soon after dinner, in company with Elder Pratt, and soon after, Elders Kimball and Egan returned to the back company. The day has been very hot and sultry, and mosquitoes are very troublesome.
The day has been very hot, with occasionally a light breeze. Several of the brethren have been out hunting, and brought in several antelope which appear to abound in this region. Brothers Woodruff and Barnabas Adams went back to the other wagons this morning. They returned at night and reported that President Young is considerably better, but Brother Rockwood remains very sick. There are one or two new cases of sickness in our camp, mostly with fever which is very severe on the first attack, generally rendering its victims delirious for some hours, and then leaving them in a languid, weakly condition. It appears that a good dose of pills or medicine is good to break the fever. The patient then needs some kind of stimulant to brace his nerves and guard him against another attack. I am satisfied that diluted spirits is good in this disease after breaking up the fever. At night had a light shower. The following is a list of the names of those who are gone on to look out and make a road, etc., viz.: Orson Pratt, commander of company, O. P. Rockwell, Jackson Redding, Stephen Markham, Nathaniel Fairbanks, Joseph Egbert, John S. Freeman, Marcus B. Thorpe, Robert Crow, Benjamin B. Crow, John Crow, Walter H. Crow, Walter Crow, George W. Therlkill, James Chesney, Jewis B. Myers, John Brown, Shadrack Roundy, Hans C. Hanson, Levi Jackman, Lyman Curtis, David Powell, Oscar Crosby, Hark Lay, Joseph Mathews, Gilbert Summe, Green Flake, John S. Gleason, Charles Burke, Norman Taylor, A. P. Chesley, Seth Taft, Horace Thornton, Stephen Kelsey, James Stewart, Robert Thomas, C. D. Barnham, John S. Eldridge, Elijah Newman, Francis Boggs, Levi N. Kendall, David Grant. First division: seven wagons, fifteen men; second division: sixteen wagons, twenty-seven men besides Crow's family of women and children. Total, twenty-three wagons and forty-two men.
Morning pleasant but cloudy. At twelve o'clock President Young, Kimball and all the rear wagons arrived, eight in number. The President is much better. Brother Rockwood is considerably better. Orders were given for this company to harness up, and during the time till we started onward at half-past one we had a very refreshing shower. After traveling two miles we passed another spring of good water at the foot of a high hill a little to the right of the road. At half-past three we formed our encampment at the foot of some high red bluffs, having traveled four and a half miles, and enjoyed two more pleasant showers. Feed here good and a beautiful spring of good, clear, cold water a little to the left of the road. The evening fine and pleasant.
This morning we have had two pleasant showers accompanied by pretty loud thunder. At 8:45, we proceeded onward, passing through a narrow ravine between very high mountains. After traveling one and a quarter miles passed a deep ravine, where most of the teams had to double to get up. One-half mile farther, crossed the creek and found the crossing place very bad. Harvey Pierce broke his wagon reach and bolster. The wagon had to be unloaded, but with little delay was soon repaired, during which time a number of the brethren fixed a new place to cross the creek. After passing this place, following the course of the creek, the mountains seem to increase in height, and come so near together in some places as to leave merely room enough for a crooked road. At half past twelve we halted to feed, having traveled six and three-quarters miles and are yet surrounded by high mountains. As we halted, O. P. Rockwell came up from Elder Pratt's company. He reports that it is about twenty-five or thirty miles to the canyon. They have found the road leading over the mountains to avoid the canyon and expect to be on top today at noon. The day is pleasant with a nice breeze. Grass plentiful and pretty high, but no timber yet, except small cedar on the sides of the mountains. Numerous springs of clear water all along the base of the mountains. During the halt two of the brethren went to the top of the mountain on the north of the camp. They looked like babes in size. At 1:40, we proceeded onward and found the pass between the mountains growing narrower, until it seemed strange that a road could ever have been made through. We crossed creek a number of times, and in several places found the crossing difficult. After proceeding a few miles, we saw patches of oak shrubbery though small in size. In the same place and for several miles there are many patches or groves of the wild currant, hop vines, alder and black birch. Willows are abundant and high. The currants are yet green and taste most like a gooseberry, thick rind and rather bitter. The hops are in blossom and seem likely to yield a good crop. The elder-berries, which are not very plentiful, are in bloom. In some places we had to pass close to the foot of high, perpendicular red mountains of rock supposed to be from six hundred to a thousand feet high. At a quarter to seven we formed our encampment, having traveled this afternoon nine and a half miles, and during the day sixteen and a quarter. We are yet enclosed by high mountains on each side, and this is the first good camping place we have seen since noon, not for lack of grass or water, but on account of the narrow gap between the mountains. Grass is pretty plentiful most of the distance and seems to grow higher the farther we go west. At this place the grass is about six feet high, and on the creek eight or ten feet high. There is one kind of grass which bears a head almost like wheat and grows pretty high, some of it six feet. There is a very singular echo in this ravine, the rattling of wagons resembles carpenters hammering at boards inside the highest rocks. The report of a rifle resembles a sharp crack of thunder and echoes from rock to rock for some time. The lowing of cattle and braying of mules seem to be answered beyond the mountains. Music, especially brass instruments, have a very pleasing effect and resemble a person standing inside the rock imitating every note. The echo, the high rocks on the north, high mountains on the south with the narrow ravine for a road, form a scenery at once romantic and more interesting than I have ever witnessed. Soon after we camped, I walked up the highest mountain on the south. The ascent is so steep that there is scarce a place to be found to place the foot flat and firm, and the visitor is every moment, if he makes the least slip or stumbles, in danger of being precipitated down to the bottom and once overbalanced, there is no possibility of stopping himself till he gets to the bottom, in which case he would doubtless be dashed to pieces. After resting about half a dozen times I arrived at the top and found the ascent equally steep all the way up. In many places I had to go on my hands and feet to keep from falling backwards. From this mountain I could see the fork of Weber River about a mile west of the camp; looking back I could see the road we had come for several miles, but in every other direction nothing but ranges of mountains still as much higher than the one I was on as it is above the creek. The scenery is truly wild and melancholy. After surveying the face of the country a little while, I began to descend and found the task much more difficult than ascending, but by using great care and taking time, I got down without accident a little before dark. Solomon Chamberlain broke his forward axle tree about two miles back. A wagon was unloaded and sent back to fetch him up. He is yet very sick.
Arose to behold a fine pleasant morning, my health much better. This is my thirty-third birthday. My mind naturally reverts back to my family and my heart is filled with blessings on their heads more than my tongue is able to express. The richest blessings that ever were bestowed upon the head of woman or child could not be more than I desire for them, whatever be my lot. President Young is reported as having had a very sick night. A forge was set up and some repairs done to wagons and Brother Chamberlain's repaired also. The cattle and mules seem very uneasy and continue lowing and braying all the morning. I suppose it is in consequence of the singular echoes, they no doubt thinking they are answered by others over the mountains. At 9:40 the camp renewed the journey and one mile farther arrived at the Red fork of the Weber River. We also seem to have a wide space to travel through and now turn to the right in a western course, the ravine having run mostly southwest. The distance we have traveled through this narrow pass is twenty-three miles. Yesterday was the first day we have been out of sight of snow a whole day since we arrived at Fort John. We could not see it for the high mountains although surrounded by it. On arriving at this stream we see it again on the mountains to the east. This stream is about four rods wide, very clear water and apparently about three feet deep on an average. Its banks lined with cottonwood and birch and also dense patches of brush wood, willows, rose bushes, briers, etc. By stepping to the top of a small mound at the bend of the road, the mouth of the canyon can be seen very plainly, as also the mountains between which we pass to avoid it. The canyon appears to be about eight or ten miles west of us. I should judge not over that. President Young being so very sick found he could not endure to travel farther. Accordingly Elder Kimball and some others went to select a camping ground and soon returning reported a place a little farther. The camp moved on and formed encampment on the banks of the river having traveled two and a half miles, the day very hot and mosquitoes plentiful. Several of the brethren have caught some fine trout in this stream which appears to have many in it. In the afternoon Elders Kimball, Richards, Smith, Benson and others went onto a mountain to clothe and pray for President Young who continues very sick. On returning they rolled down many large rocks from the top of the mountain to witness the velocity of their descent, etc. Some would roll over half a mile and frequently break to pieces. John Nixon found and brought to camp a very singular kind of thistle which I have never seen before nor recollect of ever reading of the like. He found it on the low land near the camp and says there are many more like it. It is a great curiosity and worthy of description. The stem is about four feet long, about six inches wide and a quarter of an inch thick. It is formed of a double leaf or case and when broken is hollow, although the stem lies close together, perfectly flat. It is ornamented with prickles from bottom to top. These leaves are but sparsely scattered all along up the stem. The top is a kind of crown and bush formed by the same kind of prickly leaves and is about ten inches long by five inches broad, forming a very handsome head or crown. But the great curiosity of this thistle is a perfect resemblance of a snake coiled around the crown as though in the act of guarding it against foes. The head of the snake lies on the top of the crown at one end and is ornamented by a small bunch of flowers like common thistle flowers on the snake's head. At the extremity of the tail is a bunch of small burrs covered with prickles something resembling the rattles on a rattlesnake's tail. The body of the snake is formed of the same kind of substance as the thistle itself and has a very singular appearance. It seems that two of the great enemies of mankind have combined, the most bitter and destructive guarding the more innocent. The serpent tempted the woman causing her to sin, in consequence of which the earth was cursed and decreed to produce thorns and thistles, etc., but this is the first time I ever saw the snake guard the thistle. In the evening Elders Kimball, G. A. Smith and Howard Egan rode down the river to visit the canyon. They returned about ten o'clock and said they had been eight miles down the river but at that distance did not arrive at the canyon and being late they concluded to return to camp.
This morning the camp was called together and addressed by Elder Kimball. He reports President Young as being a very sick man. He proposed to the brethren that instead of their scattering off, some hunting, some fishing, and some climbing mountains, etc., that they should meet together and pray and exhort each other that the Lord may turn away sickness from our midst and from our President that we may proceed on our journey. It was decided to assemble at ten o'clock and at the sound of the bugle the brethren met in a small grove of shrubbery which they have made for the purpose opposite the wagons. During the meeting, Elder Kimball proposed to the brethren that all the camp, except President Young's and eight or ten other wagons with brethren enough to take care of him, etc., proceed on tomorrow and go through, find a good place, begin to plant potatoes, etc., as we have little time to spare. The proposition was acceeded to by unanimous vote and after a number had expressed their feelings the meeting adjourned till two o'clock at which time they again assembled and listened to remarks from a number of the brethren. Elder Kimball again gave much good instruction and prophesied of good things concerning the camp. The bishops broke bread and the sacrament was administered. Good feelings seem to prevail and the brethren desire to do right. A number yet continue sick, but we expect all will soon recover. The day is very hot with very little air moving. Elder Kimball consented for me to go on tomorrow with the company that goes ahead.
Morning fine and warm, President Young considerably better. At 7:45 we started onward leaving President Young and Kimball's wagons and several others. We found the road very rough on account of loose rocks and cobble stones. After traveling two and a quarter miles, we forded the river and found it about eighteen inches deep but proceeded without difficulty. Soon after we were over, Elder Snow came up and said the camp were requested to halt awhile till Dr. Richards came. One of his oxen is missing and he wished to go on. We concluded to move on a little to where the road should turn off between the mountains to avoid the canyon. Elder Pratt went three miles out of his road and had to return again. Three-quarters of a mile from the ford we found the place to make the cutoff and there halted awhile. I put a guide board up at this place marked as follows: "Pratt's Pass to avoid canyon. To Fort Bridger 74¼ miles." Brother Pack, having charge of the company, concluded to move on slowly and be making our way up the mountains. We accordingly started and after traveling a mile from the forks began to ascend and wind around the mountains. We found the road exceedingly rough and crooked and very dangerous on wagons. Three and a half miles from the forks of the road the brethren made a bridge over a small creek over which we crossed having passed a number of springs near the road. Two and a quarter miles farther we arrived on the summit of the dividing ridge and put a guide board up, "80 miles to Fort Bridger." At this place Elders Kimball, Woodruff, G. A. Smith and H. Egan rode up to view the road, etc. The descent is not very steep but exceedingly dangerous to wagons being mostly on the side hill over large cobble stones, causing the wagons to slide very badly. After traveling a little way, G. A. Smith's wagon wheels gave way going down a steep pitch. The spokes are loose in the hub, and worked about so that when the wagon slides they dish inward, etc. At two o'clock, we halted beside a small creek to water teams, having traveled ten and a half miles over exceedingly rough road. A wagon was unloaded, and sent for G. A. Smith's loading which is reported to be two miles back. While they were gone, many turned out their teams to graze. At 3:30 the men returned with the wagons, putting the loading into several so as to proceed and at 3:35 we started forward, the road turning suddenly to the right for about three-quarters of a mile and then a southwest course again. Here we ascend a very long steep hill for nearly a mile, then descend by a very crooked road. I think a better road might be made here and this high hill avoided and save a mile's travel. After traveling a little over three miles, we crossed a creek about a rod wide and eighteen inches deep, pretty steep going down but good going out. We went on a little farther and at half past five camped on a small spot surrounded by willow bushes full of mosquitoes, having traveled this afternoon three and a quarter miles and during the day thirteen and three-quarters. The day has been hot and no wind. Teams sweat much and it has been a pretty hard day's travel. There is not much grass here, but is said to be more plentiful a little farther. Several accidents have happened to wagons today but nothing serious except Brother G. A. Smith's. Dr. Richards' wagons arrived in camp at the same time the rest did. The sick are getting better. In the evening the brethren picked up a lot of dry willows and made a coal pit to set G. A. Smith's tire before we can leave tomorrow. The evening and night were very cold.
This morning fine and warm. The coal pit is burned and Burr Frost set Elder Smith's wagon tire and did various other repairs to a number of other wagons which took till nearly eleven o'clock, about which time the camp started onward. One of Brother Crow's men returned from Elder Pratt's company and reported that their camp is about nine miles from here. He is hunting stray cattle. He says the road is very rough from here and about a mile beyond where they are camped the road begins to ascend over a high range of mountains. Elder Pratt has been to the top but cannot see the Salt Lake from there. Their company is gone on. I walked ahead of the camp nearly four miles and picked many gooseberries nearly ripe. They are very plentiful on this bottom. The brethren spent much time cutting brush wood and improving the road. After traveling four miles, halted about half an hour to water teams and eat dinner. The road over which we have traveled is through an uneven gap between high mountains and is exceedingly rough and crooked. Not a place to be met with scarcely where there would be room to camp for the dense willow groves all along the bottom. We then proceeded on and traveled over the same kind of rough road till a little after 5:00 p.m. then camped on a ridge, having traveled today seven and a quarter miles. The last three miles has been the worst road of the two, it being through willow bushes over twenty feet high, also rose and gooseberry bushes and shaking poplar and birch timber. Although there has been a road cut through, it is yet scarcely possible to travel without tearing the wagon covers. We have crossed this creek which Elder Pratt names Canyon Creek eleven times during the day and the road is one of the most crooked I ever saw, many sharp turns in it and the willow stubs standing making it very severe on wagons. As we proceed up, the gap between the mountains seems to grow still narrower until arriving at this place where there is room to camp, but little grass for teams. There are many springs along the road but the water is not very good. In one place about a mile back there is a very bad swamp where the brethren spent some time cutting willows and laying them in to improve it. We have got along today without much damage which is somewhat favorable for the road is awful. At this place the ground around is represented as being swampy and dangerous for cattle. It is reported that there is no place to camp beyond this till where Elder Pratt's company camped and this is so small they have to huddle the wagons together. The soil continues sandy, except in the low moist places where it looks black and good. There is some pine occasionally in sight on the mountains, but timber here is scarce. We have passed through some small patches today where a few house logs might be cut, but this is truly a wild looking place.
We started onward at half past six, the morning fine and pleasant. We crossed the creek once more and about a half a mile from where we camped, the road turns to the right leaving the creek and ascending the mountains gradually. Much time was necessarily spent cutting down stumps, heaving out rocks and leveling the road. It is an exceedingly rough place. There are several springs at the foot of the mountain and one a mile from the top which runs above the ground a little distance, then sinks under again. The last half mile of the ascent is very steep and the nearer the top the steeper it grows. There is considerable timber up this gap but mostly destroyed by fire. We saw a prairie pheasant while going up and some wild gooseberries. At eleven o'clock, the teams began to arrive on the dividing ridge and in less than an hour, all were safely up. From this ridge we can see an extensive valley to the west but on every other side high mountains, many of them white with snow. It seems as though a few hours' travel might bring us out from the mountains on good road again. We halted on the ridge a little while and then prepared to descend, many locking both hind wheels, a precaution not at all unnecessary. We found the road down exceedingly steep and rendered dangerous by the many stumps of trees left standing in the road. The brethren cut up many of them which delayed us much. About a mile down is a bridge formed of small trees laid one on another to fill up a deep ravine. It is steep on both sides and here Joseph Rooker turned his wagon over, however, without much damage. A mile and a half from the top is a spring and small stream of very good cold water where we halted to let teams drink. This would make a tolerably good camp ground in case of necessity. After this, the road is not so steep but is very rough and winds between high hills or mountains through willows and brush wood and over soft places, crossing the creek a number of times. At four and a half miles from the top of the ridge, we arrived at a good spring of cold water, plenty of grass and a good place to camp. Our teams have now been in the harness about ten hours without eating and the feeling of many was to stay here, but some wanted to go on and we continued. Turning suddenly to the right a little below this spring we began to ascend another high ridge and while ascending some of the teams began to fail. There are a great many service berries on this ridge growing on what we supposed to be wild apple trees. The berries are good and rich when ripe. The descent from this ridge is not nearly so steep as the other one, yet many locked both hind wheels. After descending, we found another small creek and a very rough road again. At 7:30, we formed our encampment near the creek, having traveled fourteen miles in thirteen hours. There is but little grass here and a poor chance for cattle. Orson Pratt's company are camped a half a mile ahead of us and our camp was formed by Colonel Markham. He says they have had many new cases of sickness but mostly getting better. The cannon is left back on the other side of the mountains. About a mile back from this place there is a small grove of sugar maple and considerable other timber along the creek. There are also beds of nice green rushes in several places.
This morning is cloudy and some like for rain. We started on at 8:30 and soon came up with Elder Pratt's company. There were several bad places in the road where the brethren spent considerable time fixing them. As we near the mouth of the canyon, there is a small grove of elder bushes in bloom and considerable oak shrubbery. We named this a canyon because of the very high mountains on each side leaving but a few rods of a bottom for the creek to pass through and hardly room for a road. It is evident that the emigrants who passed this way last year must have spent a great deal of time cutting a road through the thickly set timber and heavy brush wood. It is reported that they spent sixteen days in making a road through from Weber River which is thirty-five miles but as the men did not work a quarter of their time much less would have sufficed. However, it has taken us over three days after the road is made although a great many hours have been spent in improving it. In this thick brush wood and around here there are many very large rattlesnakes lurking, making it necessary to use caution while passing through. After traveling one and three-quarters miles, we found the road crossing the creek again to the north side and then ascending up a very steep, high hill. It is so very steep as to be almost impossible for heavy wagons to ascend and so narrow that the least accident might precipitate a wagon down a bank three or four hundred feet, in which case it would certainly be dashed to pieces. Colonel Markham and another man went over the hill and returned up the canyon to see if a road cannot be cut through and avoid this hill. While passing up, a bear started near them but soon was out of sight amongst the very high grass. Brother Markham says a good road can soon be made down the canyon by digging a little and cutting through the bushes some ten or fifteen rods. A number of men went to work immediately to make the road which will be much better than to attempt crossing the hill and will be sooner done.
Agreeable to President Young's instructions, Elder Pratt accompanied by George A. Smith, John Brown, Joseph Mathews, John Pack, O.P. Rockwell and J. C. Little started on this morning on horses to seek out a suitable place to plant some potatoes, turnips, etc., so as to preserve the seed at least. While the brethren were cutting the road, I followed the old one to the top of the hill and on arriving there was much cheered by a handsome view of the Great Salt Lake lying, as I should judge, from twenty-five to thirty miles to the west of us; and at eleven o'clock I sat down to contemplate and view the surrounding scenery. There is an extensive, beautiful, level looking valley from here to the lake which I should judge from the numerous deep green patches must be fertile and rich. The valley extends to the south probably fifty miles where it is again surrounded by high mountains. To the southwest across the valley at about twenty to twenty-five miles distance is a high mountain, extending from the south end of the valley to about opposite this place where it ceases abruptly leaving a pleasant view of the dark waters of the lake. Standing on the lake and about due west there are two mountains and far in the distance another one which I suppose is on the other side the lake, probably from sixty to eighty miles distance. To the northwest is another mountain at the base of which is a lone ridge of what I should consider to be rock salt from its white and shining appearance. The lake does not show at this distance a very extensive surface, but its dark blue shade resembling the calm sea looks very handsome. The intervening valley appears to be well supplied with streams, creeks and lakes, some of the latter are evidently salt. There is but little timber in sight anywhere, and that is mostly on the banks of creeks and streams of water which is about the only objection which could be raised in my estimation to this being one of the most beautiful valleys and pleasant places for a home for the Saints which could be found. Timber is evidently lacking but we have not expected to find a timbered country. There may be timber on the mountains which the long distance would render impossible to be seen with the naked eye, but the mountains through which we have passed have very little on them. In some places may be seen a grove of small fir or cedar or pine and in the valleys some cottonwood and other small timber. There is doubtless timber in all passes and ravines where streams descend from the mountains. There is no prospect for building log houses without spending a vast amount of time and labor, but we can make Spanish brick and dry them in the sun; or we can build lodges as the Pawnee Indians do in their villages. For my own part I am happily disappointed in the appearance of the valley of the Salt Lake, but if the land be as rich as it has the appearance of being, I have no fears but the Saints can live here and do well while we will do right. When I commune with my own heart and ask myself whether I would choose to dwell here in this wild looking country amongst the Saints surrounded by friends, though poor, enjoying the privileges and blessings of the everlasting priesthood, with God for our King and Father; or dwell amongst the gentiles with all their wealth and good things of the earth, to be eternally mobbed, harassed, hunted, our best men murdered and every good man's life continually in danger, the soft whisper echoes loud and reverberates back in tones of stern determination; give me the quiet wilderness and my family to associate with, surrounded by the Saints and adieu to the gentile world till God says return and avenge you of your enemies. If I had my family with me, how happy could I be, for I dread nothing so much as the journey back again and when I think of the many dangers from accident which families traveling this road are continually liable to and especially this last mountain road from Weber River, it makes me almost shudder to think of it and I could almost envy those who have got safely through, having their families with them, yet they will doubtless have a hard time of it the coming winter. Brother Crow's family especially have very little bread stuff with them, they say enough to last them two months and they are dependent on the success of their hunter for support through the winter. This valley appears to be fortified by mountains, except on the banks of the lake, on many of which there is still snow lying in large quantities. It is certain that good limestone abounds in these ridges and it is supposed coal can be found with little labor. From this hill I passed down the creek which we named the Last Creek about a mile and there saw a bed of bull rushes of the largest kind I ever saw, some of them being fifteen feet high and an inch and a half in diameter at the bottom. The grass on this creek grows from six to twelve feet high and appears very rank. There are some ducks around and sand hill cranes. Many signs of deer, antelope, and bears, but not many have been seen here. There have been fresh buffalo signs seen a few days' travel back, but those animals evidently do not stay in this region unless some come to winter. The ground seems literally alive with the very large black crickets crawling around up grass and bushes. They look loathsome but are said to be excellent for fattening hogs which would feed on them voraciously. The bears evidently live mostly on them at this season of the year. After spending about four hours' labor the brethren succeeded in cutting a pretty good road along the creek and the wagons proceeded on, taking near a southwest course. We found the last descent even but very rapid all the way. At half past five, we formed our encampment on a creek supposed to be Brown's Creek, having traveled seven and a quarter miles today. We are now five and a quarter miles from the mouth of this canyon making the whole distance of rough mountain road from the Weber River to the mouth of the canyon on this side a little less than thirty-five miles and decidedly the worst piece of road on the whole journey. At this place, the land is black and looks rich, sandy enough to make it good to work. The grass grows high and thick on the ground and is well mixed with nice green rushes. Feed here for our teams is very plentiful and good and the water is also good. There are many rattlesnakes of a large size in this valley and it is supposed they have dens in the mountains. The land looks dry and lacks rain, but the numerous creeks and springs must necessarily tend to moisten it much. The grass looks rich and good. A while after we camped, Elder Pratt and company returned and reported that they had been about fifteen miles north from here and this region is as suitable a place to put in our seeds as they have seen. Approaching nearer the lake, the land is mostly sunken and many small lakes in it. A few miles north of this, is a good spot to break up and plant potatoes, sow our seeds, etc. There is a little timber on the creek. From twelve to fifteen miles north at the foot of the mountain they saw many hot sulphur springs issuing from the rocks, as many as fifty in number. One of them, the largest, falls out of the rocks and then forms a pool apparently ten feet deep and a rock is in the center. The water of this is so hot a person cannot bear his hand in it but a very few seconds. It is strong of salt and sulphur and the bottom appears green as though it was covered with verdigris. A council was held at the Doctor's wagon and it was decided to move early tomorrow to the place designated; also, to send two men back to the President and company to report our progress, etc., then to commence forthwith and plow and plant about ten acres with potatoes this week if possible and thus continue till the seed is secured. John Pack and Joseph Mathews were selected to return to President Young's company. The evening was fine and pleasant and the night feels much warmer than in the ravines of the mountains.
This morning Elders Pack and Mathews started to meet the President and at the same time the camp moved on to the final location. We traveled two miles and then formed our encampment on the banks of the creek in an oblong circle. The grass here appears even richer and thicker on the ground than where we left this morning. The soil looks indeed rich, black and a little sandy. The grass is about four feet high and very thick on the ground and well mixed with rushes. If we stay here three weeks and our teams have any rest they will be in good order to return. As soon as the camp was formed a meeting was called and the brethren addressed by Elder Richards, mostly on the necessity and propriety of working faithfully and diligently to get potatoes, turnips, etc., in the ground. Elder Pratt reported their mission yesterday and after some remarks the meeting was dismissed. At the opening, the brethren united in prayer and asked the Lord to send rain on the land, etc. The brethren immediately rigged three plows and went to plowing a little northeast of the camp; another party went with spades, etc., to make a dam on one of the creeks so as to throw the water at pleasure on the field, designing to irrigate the land in case rain should not come sufficiently. This land is beautifully situated for irrigation, many nice streams descending from the mountains which can be turned in every direction so as to water any portion of the lands at pleasure. During the afternoon, heavy clouds began to collect in the southwest and at five o'clock we had a light shower with thunder. We had rains for about two hours. The brethren have plowed up considerable land and broken several of their plows, but there have been three plows going nearly all day. At night, the camp was called together and addressed by Elder Richards on a subject which seemed little welcome to many from the way it was handled. It was a sermon of ---- from end to end. Some felt a little insulted but it all passed off well and jokingly.
The plowing is renewed and many are gone to planting potatoes. There is one drag going. Others are still at work on the dams. John Pack and Joseph Mathews returned at dark last night and reported the President and company a few miles up Last Creek. They have gone back this morning to fix two bridges at the mouth of the canyon. The day is fine and hot with a nice breeze. At a quarter to twelve, President Young and Kimball arrived and the wagons also began to arrive at the same time. The President seems much better and the sick generally are getting better. Most of the brethren express themselves well; pleased with the place, but some complain because there is no timber. There appears to be a unanimous agreement in regard to the richness of the soil and there are good prospects of sustaining and fattening stock with little trouble. The only objection is a lack of timber and rain. The latter God will send in its season if the Saints are faithful and I think yesterday was a proof that He listens to and answers the prayers of the Saints. We can easily irrigate the land at all events which will be an unfailing and certain source of water, for the springs are numerous and the water appears good. About 5:00 p.m. we were favored with another nice shower accompanied by thunder and some wind. It continued raining till nearly dark; the balance of the evening fine. Elder Kimball says that it is contemplated to send out an exploring party to start on Monday and proceed north to the Bear River and Cache valleys. They design taking several wagons with them and Presidents Young and Kimball accompany the expedition. Another company is to start at the same time and go west to the lake, then south to the Utah lake and return down this valley.
Morning fine and pleasant. At ten o'clock a meeting was held in the camp and the brethren addressed successively by Elders G. A. Smith, H. C. Kimball and E. T. Benson, these mostly expressing their feeling of gratification for the prospects of this country, each being highly satisfied with the soil, etc. Elder Kimball referred especially to the manifold blessings we have been favored with during the journey. Not a man, woman, or child has died on the journey, not even a horse, mule, ox, cow or chicken has died during the whole journey. Many exhortations were given to the brethren to be faithful, obey the council of those in authority and we shall be blessed and prosperous. At 1:00 p.m. by request of Elder Kimball, the following persons viz.: Howard Egan, Hans C. Hanson, Jackson Redding, Carlos Murray, Thomas Cloward, George Billings, Philo Johnson, Charles Harper, Edson Whipple, Wm. A. King, Hosea Cusing, Robert Byard, Orson K. Whitney and Horace Whitney, assembled themselves in a willow grove adjacent to the camp where Elder Kimball addressed them in substance as follows [the whole reported by Horace Whitney]:
"Most of you here present have become adopted into my family, except a very few calling them by name and Horace, who has become connected with my family by marriage, but I do not care for that, you are all the same to me, and your interest is my interest for what's mine is yours and what's yours is your own. If I have the privilege of building a house, I want you to help me and I will help you. Horace will want to build a house for some of his father's family if they should come up and there is plenty of timber in the hills. When my family comes up, we may conclude to settle somewhere else. If so, there will be plenty to buy us out if we shall have made any improvements. I want you all to be prudent and take care of your horses, cattle and everything entrusted to your care. It would be a good plan and probably will be done for those who stay here, to go back on the Sweet Water and kill buffalo, etc., for winter consumption. We shall go tomorrow if Brigham is well enough, in search of a better location--if indeed, such can be found--if not, we shall remain here. There should be an enclosure made for the purpose of keeping the horses and cattle in nights for there are plenty of Indians in the vicinity. I should advise you to keep the Sabbath day holy whether others do or not. I want you to put all the seed into the ground that you think will come to maturity. I am satisfied that buckwheat will do as well here as any other seed we can grow. I want also some peach stones and apple seeds to be planted forthwith. Brother Byard and Hans I would like to have immediately engage in making garments of buck skins, Brother Cloward in making shoes and Brother Johnson in making hats as soon as practicable. If you wish to go hunting, fishing, or to see the country, select a week day and not the Lord's day for that purpose. Do not let us get giddy and light minded as the Nephites did of old, but strive to work righteousness in the beginning, inasmuch as we have reached the promised land. If it is advisable to work in a family capacity, we will do so; and if in a church capacity, we should be equally willing to do that. I am going out on a scout with the brethren and I shall probably want one or two of you to go with me and also one or two wagons. I am not going to take anything back with me to Winter Quarters except what is actually necessary--even some of my clothes I shall leave behind. I shall leave Bishop Whipple with you. He is quite a steady and economical man, and as such I recommend him to you. I want every man to be as industrious as possible while I am gone and get into the ground all the turnips, cabbage and other seeds you can. In case a storm of snow should come on, it would be advisable to drive all the cattle among the willows where they can remain until the snow goes off. I want you all to work together until such time as every man can have his inheritance set off to him. I feel towards you as a father towards his children and I want you to banish all peevishness from your midst and accommodate yourselves as much as possible to each other's wishes. I have it to say that my boys have been faithful to their various duties on this journey and other people have noticed it and expressed the opinion that they never saw such an attentive set of men in their lives, and I consider that their conduct is worthy of imitation. I want you to be sober and prayerful and remember me and my family in your prayers." A number of other good ideas were advanced by Brother Heber and then we closed the meeting by prayer.
At 2:00 p.m. the brethren again assembled within the camp and were successively addressed by Elders Woodruff, Orson Pratt and W. Richards sustaining the ideas advanced by the other brethren this morning. Some remarks followed from Lorenzo Young, John Pack and others and the meeting was dismissed. It is contemplated to send some wagons back to lighten the loads and assist the next company over these rough roads. It is now certain that there is considerable timber in the ravines and valleys between the mountains, several large bodies having been seen by the brethren since our arrival. There is a mountain lying northeast from here on which is considerably large timber. It is supposed to be about ten miles distance. The northern expedition is given up for the present on account of President Young's health. A company intend to go tomorrow to the lake and survey that region. If they go, they will probably be gone a day or two.
Morning cloudy and pleasant. The brethren commenced plowing early, others are gone to planting, etc., and the brethren appear to feel well. Some of the sick have been to bathe in one of the hot springs and pronounce the effects wonderfully beneficial. Others are going this morning to try the same experiment. Another company are gone to make a road to the timber through a ravine a little north of this. About ten o'clock, President Young sent me a horse with instructions to join him and some others going on a short exploring expedition. I immediately started and found the company consisted of President Young, Elders Kimball, Woodruff, G. A. Smith, Benson, Richards and Carrington. We took a course northward passing by the land where the brethren are plowing and planting. The land indeed looks rich and light. About three-quarters of a mile north of the camp, we arrived on a beautiful table land, level and nicely sloping to the west. Here we halted to view it and the more we viewed, the better we were satisfied that it is as handsome a place for a city as can be imagined. At the east part there is a considerable creek of clear cold water descending from the mountains and just above this place it branches into two forks, one running northwest, the other southwest, and the two nicely surrounding this place, and so well arranged that should a city be built here the water can be turned into every street at pleasure. We passed on and began to ascend the mountains, the President signifying a wish to ascend a high peak to the north of us. After some hard toil and time we succeeded in gaining the summit, leaving our horses about two-thirds the way up. President Young felt pretty well fatigued when he got up. Some of the brethren feel like naming this Ensign Peak. From this place, we had a good view of the Salt Lake and could see that the waters extend for a great many miles to the north of us. There appears to be land, although white with salt, all the way to the mountain on the northwest which we had previously supposed was surrounded by water. We can see a pretty large stream winding from the south to the north through the valley but keeping not many miles distant from these mountains towards the lake. After satisfying ourselves we began to descend, President Young and Lorenzo, who joined us a while before we went up, going down on the east side where they were joined by Elders Woodruff, Benson, and Richards with the horses. Elders Kimball, Smith, Carrington and myself descended on the northwest corner and found the descent very lengthy and difficult. These hills are mostly rocky of a kind of soft stone in some places, in others a harder kind of flint stone. On arriving on the level again, we wound our way southward to meet the other brethren and after passing a little way saw one of the sulphur springs where a pretty large stream of sulphur water boils out of the rock at the foot of the mountain and thence branches out into several smaller streams for some distance till these enter a small lake. This water is about as warm as dish water and very salty. There is much filthy kind of substance collected on it and the smell arising from it is truly nauseating and sickly, though generally supposed to be in no way unhealthy. Elder Kimball left us here on seeing Elder Woodruff's carriage and the other brethren returning back towards the camp. In the meantime, Elders Smith, Carrington and myself went lower down towards the lake in search of some fresh water to quench our thirst. We found a nice clear stream of cold water but a little way from the sulphur spring and having drunk of it, we concluded to go on and see the river which we had noticed from the mountain. We took nearly a west course and soon struck the old road made by emigrants last year. We found the land exceedingly rich all along, good grass and abundance of rushes. We found many wet places but no signs of swamps, nor danger of miring. After traveling about two miles, we arrived at the river having followed the road to the ford. This river is about five rods wide on an average, three and a half feet deep at the ford but in other places much deeper. The current is slow and the water of a dark lead color. The banks are about five feet high and the soil to the water level of a rich, black alluvial. There is no timber on the banks here and not many willow bushes. We went over the river and found the soil equally good on the other side. While here we observed Elder Woodruff's carriage and the brethren again proceeding northward. We started back to meet them, it being the intention to go to the large, hot sulphur spring. We could but remark all along, the richness of the soil and the abundance of high, good looking grass. On arriving at the foot of the mountain beside another sulphur spring, we saw the carriage come on to the first spring but apparently judging it unsafe to cross, they wheeled around and returned back to camp. Elders Smith, Carrington and myself then concluded to go on and view the big spring which we found to be about two miles farther. Before arriving at it, there is a large shoal salt lake and on the banks are numerous sulphur springs varying in the appearance of the surface and losing themselves in the lake. There were many plovers on and around this lake. We arrived at the big spring about four o'clock and making our horses fast, we went down to where it boils out of the rock. This spring is also situated at the foot of the mountains and at the base of a large rock, perpendicular on the west side and gradually losing itself on the east in the mountain. The spring, as I have said, is at the base of this rock. There is a circular hole about four feet wide and a yard high from the top to the surface of the water from whence the water boils out in a considerable stream. The water itself in the spring seems to be about two feet deep. There is a rock at the mouth of the spring where a person can stand and see inside. Standing on this rock with your face near the mouth of the spring a strong warm sulphurous air is felt to come in gusts out of the rock and it is so hot that it requires only a few minutes to start the perspiration. On putting my hand in the spring, I was startled with the heat and found I could not bear to hold my hand in five seconds. It is as hot as the hottest dish water ever used for dishes. Immediately on emerging from the rock, the water forms a lake about three rods in diameter and evidently pretty deep. The water is exceedingly clear and nice to look at but very salty indeed. We could see the water boil up in many parts of the lake. The water escapes at the north side of the lake at the base of the rock and there forms a stream about four feet wide and eighteen inches deep. We concluded we would go down the stream six or eight rods to wash our feet, naturally expecting the water to be cooler, but on taking off our boots and socks we found it impossible to hold our feet in it a moment and could barely wash by dashing the water on with our hands and suddenly dipping them in and out. It is supposed this would boil an egg in about ten minutes. At five o'clock we returned back to camp and supposed that the spring is about four miles distance. We arrived in camp at six o'clock. The brethren have planted about three acres of potatoes, some peas, beans, and are now planting four or five acres of corn. Elder Kimball stated that on returning with the carriage to the creek near the camp to get some water, he discovered that he had lost his spy glass. He retraced his steps on foot to the top of the peak and back without finding it, and on arriving at the bottom he saw Elders Richards and Benson bathing in one of the warm sulphur springs. Although wet with perspiration he took off his clothes and plunged in and found the effects very pleasant and beneficial. After bathing they started back for camp and but a few rods distance found the glass near the road. Some of the brethren have commenced making a garden about two miles to the southeast and indeed their operations and industry are truly pleasing and noble. The more I view the country, the better I am satisfied that the Saints can live here and raise abundant crops. Elder Kimball has kindly offered me a horse to ride and view the country as much and when I have a mind to while we stay here. This morning Joseph Mathews and John Brown started west to go to the mountain. They returned this evening and report that they have been at the foot of the mountain and judge it to be about sixteen miles distance. They say the wild sage is very plentiful on the other side the valley, showing that the land is not so rich there as here. They found a horse, near the mountain and have brought it to camp, supposed to have strayed from emigrants who have previously passed this way. Towards sundown heavy clouds were noticed in the south and southwest. We expected a shower, but it passed off to the east.
Morning fine and warm. The atmosphere appears very different here to what it did amongst the mountains. The evenings and nights are very warm and pleasant and the air appears pure. Two of the Utah Indians came to camp early this morning to trade. Two ponies were bought of them for a rifle and musket. These two are but of moderate size, pleasing countenance and dressed in skins. At half past eight Amasa Lyman, Rodney Badger, Roswell Stevens, and Brother Brannan arrived in camp. They report that the Pueblo company will be in tomorrow or the day after. The brethren are still busy plowing and planting. Burr Frost has his forge up and quite a number of plows have been rigged up by the assistance of the carpenters. Elder Lyman, I understand, reports that they heard of a large company on their way and he thinks we may expect them in 15 or 20 days. Elders Lyman and Brannan joined the exploring party with President Young and Kimball and the company started off soon after their arrival. A company of brethren have been to the mountains to get more lumber to build a skiff. They returned this evening bringing a very handsome pine log about twenty inches through and which, probably, when whole, would measure sixty feet long. The day has been very fine and warm. The horses and cattle seem in good spirits and are getting fat. They are full of life and ambition. Presidents Young and Kimball have had their wagons moved a little distance from the camp to the other side the creek. During the afternoon, two more Indians came in to trade. Some of the brethren are making unwise trades, giving twenty charges of powder and balls for a buck skin, while the usual price is three charges. This is wrong.
Morning fine and warm. Several of the Indians have remained in camp over night. They seem very peaceable and gentle and anxious to trade. The brethren are making a saw pit to saw lumber for a skiff. Joseph Hancock and Lewis Barney have been off hunting in the mountains two days. They state there is abundance of good timber for building in the mountains but difficult to get at it. The timber is mostly balsam fir and poplar and many sticks will make two good logs. At half past three President Young and company returned. They have been at the Salt Lake and report it to be about twenty-five miles distance. No water after they leave the river except salt water. The lake is very clear and the water heavy, so much so, that a man cannot possibly sink. Even not where more than four feet deep and they tried to fall down on their knees but could not touch the bottom. They can sit or lie in the water perfectly easily without touching the bottom. One of the brethren lay down on the water and another got on him but could not sink him. They suppose the water will yield 35% pure salt. They gathered some off the rocks which is as pure, white and fine as the best that can be bought in market.
There is a cave in the mountain west of the camp which is sixty feet from the entrance to the far end. The Indians appear to have frequently visited it and there are yet the remains of their fires.
There appears to be no fresh water beyond the river and the brethren are more and more satisfied that we are already on the right spot. At eight o'clock the brethren were called together and addressed by President Young on various subjects, pointing out items of law which would be put in force here, his feelings towards the gentiles, etc. He said they intended to divide the city into blocks of ten acres each with eight lots in a block of one and a quarter acres each. The streets to be wide. No house will be permitted to be built on the corners of the streets, neither petty shops. Each house will have to be built so many feet back from the street and all the houses parallel with each other. The fronts are to be beautified with fruit trees, etc. No filth will be allowed to stand in the city but the water will be conducted through in such a manner as to carry all the filth off to the River Jordan. No man will be suffered to cut up his lot and sell a part to speculate out of his brethren. Each man must keep his lot whole, for the Lord has given it to us without price. The temple lot will be forty acres and adorned with trees, ponds, etc. The whole subject was interesting to the brethren and the items will probably be given more fully hereafter. The Twelve were appointed a committee to lay off the city, etc.
We have had a very strong cold, east wind all the night and the morning is tolerably cool. At eleven o'clock I was moved up to the other camp about three-quarters of a mile. At ten o'clock we had a light shower. It rained pretty heavily all around but mostly passed by here. At three o'clock, the Pueblo brethren came in sight, the soldiers appearing in military order, many of them mounted. They have twenty-nine wagons in the company and one carriage. Presidents Young, Kimball and the Twelve went to meet the brethren and met them in the canyon. They report that they had very heavy rain there, the water rising in the creek three feet in a very short time, caused by the rush from the mountains. The brethren arrived at the lower camp at half past three and marched in headed by the fifes and side drum. They have camped a little west of the other camp. The brethren are represented as feeling well and cheerful. At five o'clock the Twelve returned here and an hour later went over north to the mountains, I suppose to hold a council.
Day warm. Twelve held a council with the officer of the battalion, then rode up to the hot spring. Evening a general meeting of the camp and addressed by President Young. He told his feelings concerning the soldiers, they have saved the people by going when required, etc. He rejoiced that they are here. He expressed his feelings warmly towards the brethren and also told his feelings towards the gentiles. The meeting was opened by hosannas three times and closed by requesting the battalion to build a bower tomorrow on the temple lot where we can assemble for meetings, etc.
This morning the brethren commenced making the bower on the temple lot a little southwest from our camp. They will make it about forty feet long and twenty-eight feet wide. Walked with President Young, Kimball, Richards and others to the Mississippi camp. Brother Thomas Richardson is very sick and several others of the soldiers. Soloman Tindal is yet alive but looks feeble. Elder Kimball conversed sometime with Captain James Brown. There are from twenty to thirty of the Utah Indians here and some squaws trading with the brethren. They are generally of low stature, pleasing countenance but poorly clad. While we were there, a dispute arose between two of the young men and they went to fighting very fiercely. One broke his gun stock on the other's head and I expected to see a pretty serious affray, many of the others gathering around. Soon an old man came up, father to one of the young men engaged in the quarrel and he used his heavy whip very freely about both their heads and faces. The antagonist of the son struck the old man and he immediately gathered a long pole and broke it over the young man's head. He succeeded in quelling the broil and gave them a long lecture. They then mostly left and resumed their trading a little distance from the camp. In the afternoon, we had a pretty smart thunder shower and considerable wind. In the evening I walked down to the Pueblo camp and there learned the following particulars:
These Indians who are now here are of the Shoshones, about fifteen or twenty in number, and several women among them. There were four or five of the Utahs here this morning when the Shoshones came up. One of the Utahs had stolen a horse from one of the Shoshones and the latter party saw him with the horse here. He had traded the horse for a rifle but was unwilling either to give up the horse or rifle hence the quarrel spoken of above. When the old man separated them, the thief went down and hid himself in the camp below. Soon after, he saw another horse walking by, which he knew to belong to the Shoshones. He sprang on his own horse and drove the other one before him towards the mountains on the southeast as hard as he could ride. The Shoshones being informed of it, four of them started in pursuit and as he got in between the mountains they closed in on him, one of the pursuers shooting him dead while another one shot his horse. They returned and made this report to the others of the tribe at the camp at the same time exhibiting fresh blood on one of the rifles. They appear to be much excited and continually on the watch. When the men returned, they sat down and made a meal of some of these large crickets. They appear to be crisped over the fire which is all the cooking required. Many of the brethren have traded muskets and rifles for horses and ordinary muskets will buy a pretty good horse. They appear to be displeased because we have traded with the Utahs and say they own this land, that that the Utahs have come over the line, etc. They signified by signs that they wanted to sell us the land for powder and lead. The Shoshones are poorer clad than the Utahs. They are about the same in stature and there are many pleasing countenances among them. Colonel Markham reports that there are three lots of land already broke. One lot of thirty-five acres of which two-thirds is already planted with buckwheat, corn, oats, etc. One lot of eight acres which is all planted with corn, potatoes, beans, etc. And a garden of ten acres, four acres of which is sown with garden seed. He says there are about three acres of corn already up about two inches above the ground and some beans and potatoes up too. This is the result of eight days' labor, besides making a road to the timber, hauling and sawing timber for a boat, making and repairing plows, etc. There have been thirteen plows and three harrows worked during the week.
We have had another cool windy night. At ten o'clock in the morning the brethren assembled for meeting under the bower on the temple lot, all the members of the quorum of the Twelve being present except President Young who is quite sick again. After the meeting had been opened by singing and prayer by Elder G. A. Smith, Elder Kimball arose and made some remarks to the following effect, as reported by Brother Bullock: "I would enquire whether there is a guard out around our cattle; if not, let one be placed immediately. The Indians left here very suddenly this morning and we don't know their object. If we don't take good care of what we have, we will not have any more. It is all in the world we shall ever have, for 'to him that receiveth I will give more.' We are the sons of God and He will do with us as we would do to our children, and inasmuch as I am faithful in taking care of my neighbors' goods, I shall be entitled to the same from them, for we are commanded to do unto others as we want others to do to us. Every penurious man who takes advantage of others will come down to poverty. If we have to follow the steps of our Savior we have to follow and experience the same things; you will have to feel for men so as to know how to sympathize with them and then you can feel for them. I feel for this people and grow more feeling for them every day. Our Father in Heaven is more tender to us than any mother to her little child. If I am faithful to serve others, others will be willing to serve me."
Orson Pratt requested the prayers of the Saints in his behalf: "It is with peculiar feelings that I arise before so many of the Saints in this uncultivated region inhabited by savages. My mind is full of reflection on the scenes through which we have passed and being brought through the deserts of sage to this distant region. God's ways are not as our ways. It is not wisdom that the Saints should always foresee the difficulties they have to encounter for then they would not be trials. We expected some revelations to take place and behold they are revealed in the Book of Mormon and Doctrine and Covenants, for we are to congregate among the remnants of Joseph. We did think our wives and children would be built up among the strongholds of the gentiles, we thought we should be as Missourians to them. Jehovah had different purposes. He designed that this people should be brought out almost as an entire people. The Book of Mormon never would have been fulfilled if the Saints had not left the gentiles as a people, for when the gentiles rejected the Gospel it was to be taken among the Lamanites. So long as the Gospel, the Priesthood and the main body of the people remained with them, the fullness of the Gospel was not taken away from the gentiles. This movement is one of the greatest that has taken place among this people. I feel thankful as one of the Twelve for the privilege of coming out as one of the pioneers to this glorious valley where we can build up a city to the Lord. For many years I have not read that good old book, but I remember the predictions in it and some that are now very nearly fulfilled by us. Isaiah says, (Chapter 62) speaking of the City of Zion, it shall be 'Sought out, a city not forsaken,' etc. Many in this congregation know what is meant by the garments of salvation and the robe of righteousness. Righteousness and praise shall spring forth before all the nations of the earth and they will not hold their peace. There are many of you that feel you can cry day and night to the people in the cause of righteousness until it shall triumph. 'For as a young man marrieth a virgin,' etc.--this belongs and refers to us. 'I will no longer give thy corn to be meat for thine enemy.' This has not been fulfilled heretofore but will be. The corn that we toil to raise from the earth, it shall not be given to our enemies, they that gather it shall eat it, and they shall drink in the courts of His holiness. This wine is also to be drunk in the courts of the Lord's house. We have gathered out the stones out of the road and thousands will yet fulfil this prophecy. It has reference to the latter times that were to dawn upon the world in the last dispensation. 'Thou shalt be called, Sought out, A city not forsaken.' If ever there was a place sought out it is this, we have enquired diligently and have found it. This cannot refer to Jerusalem, but to this very place, point and spot that the pioneers have found where a city shall be built unto the Lord, where righteousness will reign and iniquity not be allowed. Isaiah and Joel both spake very plainly on this subject. 'It shall come to pass in the last days that the house of the Lord shall be established,' etc. In what part of the earth could it be established more than in this place where this congregation is gathered. In the midst of the spires of the mountains we have found a place large enough to gather a few thousand of the Saints. You may travel Europe, Asia, Africa and America but you cannot find a place much higher where any people can raise crops and sustain themselves. The house of the Lord will be established on the tops of the mountains when we shall have once reared here. The experience of the Saints proves that there was no house of the Lord, and we can say: travel over this earth but you cannot find the house of the Lord. The Lord must give the pattern of the building and order it, and give directions to His servants. The Lord wants His house built precisely to the pattern that He gives and He is bound to speak to and bless and make them His own children in that house and I verily believe I shall see it and see thousands come flocking to the house to learn the way of salvation. And I want to see the time that I shall see thousands raising their voices on this consecrated land. There are many testimonies in the prophets all bearing upon this subject. Joseph, in the Book of Doctrine and Covenants speaks of this very subject and it appears there will be some sinners in Zion who will be afraid and a devouring fire will rest upon every dwelling place in Zion. 'He that walketh righteously' etc., 'He shall dwell on high, bread shall be given him, his water shall be sure.' Isaiah was on the eastern continent when he spoke this and was speaking of a very distant place. It will be pretty difficult to get a ship of war up to this place. When we get used to this healthy climate, the people will not say, I am sick, but will be able to smite the gentiles. They will grow up strong and will not be in jeopardy from sickness. The wilderness shall become as a fruitful field and a fruitful field as a forest. We know the time will come that the great Jehovah will cause springs of water to gush out of the desert lands and we shall see the lands survive that the gentiles have defiled. Isaiah speaks of the heritage of Jacob being in a high place. This is about four thousand feet above the level of the sea and the high mountains will still catch the hail and we shall be in a low place. We will not feel discouraged but will feel full of vigor and circumscribe all things to the very heavens, for this is what we desire above all things. Let us endeavor to covenant in our hearts, that we will serve the Lord; that we will keep His commandments and obey His counsel. I wish that all of us should be faithful and as President Young said the other evening, every man is expected to do his duty. The Lord will be with us still; He will shield, guard and defend us by day and be our refuge by night, and our salvation. I feel to say in the name of the Lord Jesus Christ, you shall be blest if you keep the commandments of God. Amen."
Elder Kimball hopes the brethren will be attentive to what they hear for if you bring an evil upon this people you will bring destruction upon yourself. If you do things according to counsel and they are wrong, the consequences will fall on the heads of those who counseled you, so don't be troubled. I do not want to be wrapt in the skins of some men who have taken a course that has brought destruction upon themselves and others, and they will have to answer for it. I am a man that would not speak to a man's daughter to marry her until I have first spoken to her father and mother also, and then it is done by common consent. But I preach the truth, every word of it. President Young instructed the Battalion last evening and counseled them for their comfort and the counsel is for the brethren to keep their guns and their powder and their balls and lead and not let the Indians have it for they will shoot down our cattle. They stole guns yesterday and had them under their blankets and if you don't attend to this you are heating a kettle of boiling water to scald your own feet. If you listen to counsel you will let them alone and let them eat the crickets, there's a plenty of them. I understand they offered to sell the land and we were to buy it of them, the Utahs would want to pay for it too. The land belongs to our Father in Heaven and we calculate to plow and plant it and no man will have power to sell his inheritance for he cannot remove it; it belongs to the Lord. I am glad I have come to a place where I feel free. I am satisfied and we are in a goodly land. My family is back, my teams are helping on several families and leaving ours. If my family were here I would not go over that road again. I believe in Brother Joseph's religion which he said was a key that would save every man or woman, and that it is for every man to mind his own business and let other people's business alone. We will all have farms and cultivate them and plant vineyards, and if we are faithful, five years will not pass away before we are better off than we ever were in Nauvoo. If we had brought our families along everybody else would have come; and we must lose another year. We could not bring all the soldiers' families for the same reason that we did not bring our own families. I thank the Lord that there are so many of the soldiers here. If they had tarried in Winter Quarters there would have been many more deaths among them. We brought many of these pioneers to save their lives, many of them were very sick and were carried out of their beds and put into the wagons. They have mostly recovered their health and we have been prosperous and have been permitted to arrive here alive. There has not one died on the journey, nor an ox nor horse nor anything except one of Brother Crow's oxen which was poisoned. We lost several horses by accident and we shall be prosperous on our journey back again if we are faithful, those of us who go, and we shall see and enjoy the society of our families again. We will one day have a house built here and have the forts and go into the house and administer for our dead. Elder Richards then read an order from Lieut. Cooke of the Mormon Battalion on the Pacific, after which Elder Bullock read a letter from Jefferson Hunt to James Brown, dated July 6, 1847, after which and a few other remarks, the meeting was dismissed.
At 2:25 the congregation assembled and opened by singing and prayer by Elder Woodruff. Bread and water were then administered by the bishops after which Elder Richards, after a few preliminary remarks, read the "Word and will of the Lord," as given in Winter Quarters. Elder Kimball made some remarks and the brethren manifested that they received and would obey the revelations by uplifted hand. He was followed by remarks by Elder Amasa Lyman, mostly sustaining the positions taken by the previous speakers. Elder Kimball again rose to lay before the brethren some items of business, whereupon it was decided that the three companies form into one camp and labor together that the officers be a committee to form the corral, and that the corral be formed tomorrow. That horses and mules be tied near the camp at nights; that we build houses instead of living in wagons this winter; that we go to work immediately putting up houses; that we work unitedly; that the houses form a stockade or fort to keep out the Indians; that our women and children be not abused and that we let the Indians alone.
Colonel Rockwood remarked that a log house 16 by 15 would cost forty dollars and one of adobes half as much. Captain Brown was in favor of setting men to work building both log and adobe houses to hasten the work. Captain Lewis said that inasmuch as timber is scarce and we have spades and shovels and tools enough, as many as can be used, he is in favor of building adobe houses and saving the timber. Lieutenant Willis said you can put up an adobe house before a man could get the logs for a log house. Adobe houses are healthy and are the best for equinoxial gales. Elder Brannan has a man in California who will take three men, make adobes for a thirty foot house, build the house and put a family in it in a week. His printing office was put up in fourteen days and a paper printed. Elder Richards said we want brick made and lime burned. If wood is put into houses it will be a waste of it. We want all the timber to make floors and roofs. We want the walls up and we are men enough to put them up in a few days and have the women protected. It was voted to put up a stockade of adobe houses. Samuel Gould and James Drum reported themselves as lime burners. Sylvester H. Earl, Joel J. Terrill, Ralph Douglas and Joseph Hancock reported themselves as brick makers. Elder Kimball then remarked that those who intend to send ox teams back to Winter Quarters must be ready a week from tomorrow morning. If the cattle's feet are too tender, have them shod, or have new shoes in the wagons. Those oxen to rest and be released from plowing, etc. Do not get the Indians around here. I want you to have nothing to do with them. After a few remarks on general items, the meeting dismissed.
We have had another cool night, but morning fine. The other companies commenced moving their wagons up and we also moved a little farther east. During the day the whole camp was formed in an oblong circle. About noon Ezra T. Benson and several others started back to meet the next company. They carried a letter, the following being a copy of the same:
"Pioneer camp. Valley of the Great Salt Lake, August 2, 1847. To General Chas. C. Rich and the Presidents and Officers of the emigrating company. Beloved Brethren: We have delegated our beloved Brother Ezra T. Benson and escort to communicate to you by express the cheering intelligence that we have arrived in the most beautiful valley of the Great Salt Lake, that every soul who left Winter Quarters with us is alive and almost everyone enjoying good health. That portion of the battalion that was at Pueblo is here with us together with the Mississippi company that accompanied them and they are generally well. We number about 450 souls and we know of no one but who is pleased with our situation. We have commenced the survey of a city this morning. We feel that the time is fast approaching when those teams that are going to Winter Quarters this fall should be on the way. Every individual here would be glad to tarry if his friends were here, but as many of the battalion, as well as the pioneers, have not their families here and do not expect that they are in your camp, we wish to learn by express from you, the situation of your camp as speedily as possible that we may be prepared to counsel and act in the whole matter. We want you to send us the names of every individual in your camp, or in other words, a copy of your camp roll, including the names, number of wagons, horses, mules, oxen, cows, etc., and the health of your camp, your location, prospects, etc. If your teams are worn out, if your camp is sick and not able to take care of themselves, if you are short of teamsters or any other circumstance impeding your progress. We want to know it immediately for we have help for you, and if your teams are in good plight and will be able to return to Winter Quarters this season or any portion of them, we want to know it. We also want the mail, which will include all letters and papers, and packages belonging to our camp, general and particular. Should circumstances permit, we would gladly meet you some distance from this, but our time is very much occupied. Notwithstanding, we think you will see us before you see our valley. Let all the brethren and sisters cheer up their hearts and know assuredly that God has heard and answered their prayers and ours and led us to a goodly land, and our souls are satisfied therewith. Brother Benson can give you many particulars that will be gratifying and cheering to you which we have not time to write, and we feel to bless all the Saints. In behalf of the council. Willard Richards, Clerk. Brigham Young, President.
This morning, Elders Pratt and Sherwood commenced surveying the city to lay it off in lots but finally concluded to wait until the chain could be tested by a standard pole which will have to be gotten from the mountains. Some of the brethren are preparing to make moulds for adobes. In the evening, Elder Kimball's teams returned from the mountains with some good house logs and poles for measuring, etc. The day has been very warm but the nights begin to be very cool. The northeast winds seem to prevail here at this season and coming from the mountains of snow are cold when the sun is down. After dark President Young sent for me to come to his wagon and told his calculations about our starting back. He wants me to start with the ox teams next Monday so as to have a better privilege of taking the distances, etc. He calculates the horse teams to start two weeks later, and if the first company arrives at Grand Island before the other comes up to wait for them there, kill and dry buffalo, etc. He wants the roadometer fixed this week and Elder Kimball has selected William King to do the work.
Morning fine, but cool. Elder Carrington starts for the mountains to look for limestone. During the day I went and bathed at Bullock's bathing place in one of the warm sulphur springs. I found the effects very refreshing and beneficial. Spent most of the day making a table of distances, etc. The day very hot.
This morning William A. King has commenced making a new roadometer. The day very hot and close.
Again at the roadometer, day very warm. J. C. Little and others have returned and report that they have been at the Utah Lake. As they went up they saw bodies of two dead Indians lying on the ground proving that there was one of each tribe killed the other day. They consider it to be about forty miles to the Utah Lake and on the east side is a handsome valley about six or eight miles wide. They are now convinced that the stream which runs a few miles below here is the Utah outlet, they having followed it to its junction with the lake.
The day very warm.
Today William A. King has finished the roadometer which will now tell the distance for one thousand miles without keeping any account. About noon a very large whirlwind struck the south side of the camp forming a cloud of dust about twenty feet in diameter and making a loud roar. It carried a chicken up some distance, tore up the bowers, and shook the wagons violently in its course. It passed off to the northeast and seemed to break at the mountains. This morning fifteen of the brethren commenced building a dam a little above the camp so as to bring the water around and inside the camp. They finished early in the afternoon and we have now a pleasant little stream of cold water running on each side the wagons all around the camp. Where the water runs off or overflows the gutters, it soon becomes miry and cattle will sink a half a yard in mud. This is owing to the lightness of the soil, it being very light and rich. In the evening, many of the brethren went and were baptized in the dam by Elder Kimball for the remission of sins, Elders Pratt, Woodruff, and Smith attending to confirmation. I went and was baptized amongst the rest. It has been recommended for all the camp to be baptized and this evening they have commenced it.
Morning cloudy with strong northeast wind. The brethren have resumed baptizing and a number have obeyed the ordinance both male and female. At ten o'clock, a meeting was held in the bowery and instructions given to the brethren. At two o'clock, sacrament was administered and 110 of the brethren selected to make adobes. Wrote a letter for Heber to Elder Martin and others.
At eleven o'clock, Brannan, Captain James Brown and several others started for San Francisco. Elder J. C. Little accompanies them to Fort Hall. I spent three hours taking observations with the barometer with Elder Pratt to ascertain the height of the land on the creek above the city. Ensign Peak, etc. The twelve had decided on a name for this place and a caption for all letters and documents issued from this place, which is as follows: Salt Lake City, Great Basin, North America.
This morning, President Young and Kimball have gone to the adobe yard to commence building some houses in that region. They have already got many good logs on the ground. Colonel Markham reports that in addition to the plowing done week before last, they have plowed about thirty acres which is mostly planted, making a total of about eighty acres. The plowing ceased last week and the brethren are now making adobes, hauling logs, etc. Elder Sherwood continues surveying the city. Tanner and Frost are setting wagon tires and have set fifty-two today. The brethren who went to the lake on Monday to boil down salt have returned this evening and report that they have found a bed of beautiful salt ready to load into wagons. It lies between two sand bars and is about six inches thick. They suppose they can easily load ten wagons without boiling. I have received from Elder Kimball a pair of buckskin pants, as a present I suppose, but as I have on similar occasions been branded with the idea of receiving a great many kindnesses without consideration, I will for this once state a little particular on the other side the question. I acknowledge that I have had the privilege of riding in a wagon and sleeping in it, of having my victuals cooked and some meat and milk, and occasionally a little tea or coffee furnished. My flour I furnished myself. I have had no team to take care of. Howard Egan has done most of my washing until a month ago in consideration of the privilege of copying from my journal, using my desk, ink, etc. The balance of my washing I have hired. Now what have I done for Brother Kimball? Am I justly indebted on this journey? Answer: I have written in his journal 124 pages of close matter on an average of 600 words to a page, which if paid at the price of recording deeds in Illinois would amount to over $110.00. I have collected the matter myself, besides writing letters, etc. This has been for his special benefit. I have kept an account of the distance we have traveled for over 800 miles of the journey, attended to the measurement of the road, kept the distances from creek to creek and from one encampment to another; put up a guide board every ten miles from Fort John to this place with the assistance of Philo Johnson. I have mapped some for Dr. Richards and keeping my own journal forms the whole benefit to be derived by my family by this mission. I have yet considerable to write in Elder Kimball's journal before I return. I am expected to keep a table of distances of the whole route returning from here to Winter Quarters and make a map when I get through, and this for public benefit. Now how much am I considered to be in debt, and how often will it be said that I was furnished by others with victuals, clothing, etc., that I might enjoy this journey as a mission of pleasure. I have spent most of this day calculating the height of this spot above the level of the sea for Elder Pratt.
Early this morning, a large company of the Utah Indians came to visit the camp and it was with difficulty they could be kept outside the wagons. There are few of them who have any clothing on except the breech clout and are mostly of low stature. They have scarcely anything to trade and not many women and children with them. They are camped about three miles north of west and supposed to be going north hunting. One of them was detected stealing some clothing which lay on the bushes to dry, but was made to leave it. When they found they were not permitted inside the circle, they soon moved off to their camp. The brethren have commenced laying the adobe wall today which will be twenty-seven inches thick and nine feet high. The adobes are 18 inches long, 9 inches broad and 4½ inches thick. The brethren in camp have finished the skiff and launched her in the creek to soak. About five o'clock, a child of Therlkill's was found in the creek south of the camp drowned. Various efforts were made to restore it but unsuccessfully. The child was about three years old and its parents mourn the accident bitterly. The day has been very hot, but as usual, at sundown we have a strong, cool wind from the northeast.
Spent the forenoon with Elder Pratt in taking observations to ascertain the height of the temple block above the Utah outlet which he found to be sixty-five feet. The altitude one mile up the creek above the temple block is 214 feet and the altitude of the temple block above the level of the sea is 4,300 feet. The latitude 40° 45' 50". The blacksmiths are very busy shoeing oxen and there is prospect that the ox teams will start back on Monday or Tuesday. The soldiers are getting dissatisfied at being kept here so long from their families and yesterday several of them left the camp secretly to go to Winter Quarters and this morning others are gone, but it is probable that President Young knows nothing of it yet although about a dozen are already gone and others are preparing to follow them. On Tuesday President Young laid a foundation for four houses; Elder Kimball four, Colonel Markham one, Dr. Richards one, and Lorenzo Young two, and today Dr. Richards has laid the foundation of another, George A. Smith two and Wilford Woodruff two, making a total of seventeen houses mostly fourteen feet wide and from twelve to seventeen long. Elder Kimball has his house four logs high.
Spent the day mostly writing. The brethren have got 130 bushels of salt with twenty-four hours labor.
Started at 8:40 in company with a number of others for the Salt Lake. We arrived at three o'clock and estimated the distance twenty-two miles. We all bathed in it and found the reports of those who had previously bathed in no ways exaggerated. We returned back to the river where we arrived at eleven o'clock at the beginning of a light thunder shower. There is no pure fresh water between the river and the lake.
President Young preached on the death of little children, etc. Evening the company composing those who are returning with the ox teams met and voted that Shadrach Roundy and Tunis Rappleyee be captains. They received instructions to start tomorrow and travel leisurely to Grand Island and there wait for the last company of horse teams. J. C. Little and company returned yesterday from Utah Lake, and this morning the exploring company returned.
Spent most of the day fixing the roadometer, also finished marking the distances, camping places,, etc., on Dr. Richards' map from Devil's gate to Little Sandy. Evening took the wagon in company with Jackson Redding and Howard Egan to the warm spring to try the roadometer. We found the distance to be one and a half miles. Most of the company of ox teams have started today for Winter Quarters. They will go to the canyon and wait there till morning. After dark, Elder Kimball called a number of us together in the tent and each one present selected a lot for himself and family. I had previously selected lots 1, 7 and 8 on block 95, but President Young broke into our arrangements and wished 7 and 8 reserved, consequently I made choice of lots 1, 2 and 3 on block 95.
Started out at 8:10 and found the distance to the mouth of the canyon five miles, the difference arising from making a road across instead of following the first one. One and three quarters of a mile farther arrived at where the company had camped for the night and found them all ready to start, only waiting for President Young to arrive and give some instructions, but he sent word he should not come and we started forward. Elders Kimball and Richards soon overtook the company, gave some instructions, then returned and the company moved on. On arriving at Birch Spring, we encamped for the night, having traveled thirteen and a half miles. There is considerable danger of cattle miring near the spring and several have already had to be pulled out. This company consists of seventy-one men with thirty-three wagons. After camping, the brethren were called together by Captain Roundy for the purpose of organizing. He briefly stated the manner of the organization of the camp when we left Winter Quarters and it was unanimously voted to organize after the same pattern which was done as follows:
1st Ten
Joseph Skeen, Captain
Wm. Burt
Artemas Johnson
James Dunn
James Cazier
Joseph Shipley
Geo. Cummings
Samuel Badham
Thos. Richardson
Roswell Stevens
2nd Ten
Zebedee Coltrin, Captain
Wm. Bird
Chester Loveland
Josiah Curtis
Lorenzo Babcock
John S. Eldridge
Samuel H. Marble
Horace Thornton
Geo. Scholes
3rd Ten
Francis Boggs, Captain
Geo. Wardle
Sylvester H. Earl
Seeley Owens
Almon M. Williams
Clark Stillman
Tunis Rappleyee, Captain of 1st Division. James Cazier Captain of Guard in 1st Division.
1st Ten
Jackson Redding, Captain
Robert Biard
Wm. Carpenter
Benj. W. Rolfe
Henry W. Sanderson
Thos. Cloward
Bailey Jacobs
Lisbon Lamb
John Pack
Wm. Clayton
2nd Ten
John H. Tippets, Captain
Lyman Stevens
Francis T. Whitney
Lyman Curtis
James Stewart
John S. Gleason
Chas. A. Burke
Myron Tanner
Wm. McLellan
Rufus Allen
Norman Taylor
3rd Ten
Allen Cumpton, Captain
Franklin Allen
John Bybee
David Garner
J. Averett
Harmon D. Persons
John G. Smith
Solomon Tindal
Philip Garner
Chas. Hopkins
Barnabas Lake
4th Ten
Andrew J. Shoop, Captain
Albert Clark
Francillo Durfee
James Hendrickson
Erastus Bingham
John Calvert
Loren Kenney
Daniel Miller
Benj. Roberts
Luther W. Glazier
Jarvis Johnson
Thos. Bingham
Shadrack Roundy, Captain of 2nd Division. John Gleason, Captain of Guard.
The soldiers were numbered with the 2nd Division, 3rd and 4th tens.
Those who have horses to ride were then numbered and their duty pointed out, which is to lead the way and fix the road where it needs it; look out camping places; drive the loose cattle and hunt for the camp. Their names are as follows: John Pack, Captain, Samuel Badham, Francillo Durfee, Benj. Roberts, Thomas Bingham, James Hendrickson, John Eldridge, R. I. Redding, Seeley Owens, Barnabas Lake, Wm. Bird, Daniel Miller, James Cazier.
We had a little rain this morning and the air very cool. We started at 8:00 a.m. and found the road rough indeed. When ascending the mountain from Brown's Creek, most of the teams had to double, it generally requiring six yoke of oxen to bring up an empty wagon. The descent is also very rough and especially where the road crosses the dry creek which is a great many times. Canyon Creek appeared rougher than when we first went up it and it took till near night to get to the end of the creek, having traveled only fifteen and three quarters miles during the day.
We got started again about 8:00 a.m., all except Chas. A. Burke. One of his oxen was missing. Before noon several of the loose cattle gave out through being over driven. We arrived and camped on Red Mountain Creek at six o'clock, having traveled sixteen and a quarter miles. The day has been very hot but nights are very cold.
Morning very cold. Started out at seven and traveled till 12:30, the day being cool, then rested and baited an hour. At 1:30 proceeded again and arrived at Cache or Reddings Cave at 5:00 p.m., having traveled twenty and a half miles, but it was nearly seven o'clock before the company arrived.
Started at 7:30 a.m. and traveled till 12:00 then baited an hour. We found Bear River not over fifteen inches deep. We camped on Sulphur Creek at five o'clock having traveled sixteen and a half miles and after camping I went with the brethren to fill their tar buckets at the oil spring. We followed a wagon trail made by a part of Hasting's company last year about a mile and found the spring situated in a ravine a little to the left of the road just at the edge of a high bench of land. The ground is black over with the oil for several rods but it is baked hard by exposure to the sun. It is difficult to get the clear oil, most of it being filled with dust and gravel. It smells much like British oil and is said to do well for greasing wagons. John Gleason has found a coal bed in the edge of the mountain across the creek. The coal looks good and burns freely.
Many of the cattle were missing this morning but after much search were found about four miles southwest from camp. We started at nine o'clock and traveled till one, then halted an hour at the copperas spring. Most of the wagons halted at the spring four miles back. The water of this spring is not bad, cattle drink it freely. At two o'clock we began to ascend the ridge and at five formed our camp near the Muddy fork having traveled seventeen and three quarters miles, the day cool and cloudy.
We started early this morning and arrived at Fort Bridger at one o'clock. We found the grass pretty much eaten off and only stayed an hour and a half while some of the brethren traded some, then went on eight miles farther and camped on a stream two rods wide, having traveled twenty-one and a half miles, the day very cool.
This morning many of the cattle had strayed several miles from camp which prevented our starting till eight o'clock. We traveled eight and a half miles, then halted an hour on Black's Fork. We proceeded again and had a pretty heavy thunder shower and arrived at Ham's Fork at 5:20, then camped for the night, having traveled twenty-three miles. Most of the wagons did not arrive till nearly night, but we had no place to camp short of this and here we have good range for cattle.
We traveled today twenty-three miles and camped on Green River. We found several places where the road is shortened some, but it is yet about sixteen miles from water to water.
Started at eight o'clock and went on to the Big Sandy and before the majority of the company arrived, E. T. Benson and escort came up with letters from the companies. They say there are nine companies between here and the Platte with 566 wagons and about 5,000 head of stock. They report the companies well and getting along tolerably fast, some they expect we shall meet within three days. After eating they proceeded on. After sundown a large party of mounted Indians came up, and camped on the opposite side the river. They have been on the Sweet Water hunting and are said to be of the Shoshone tribe.
Many of the brethren traded sugar, powder, lead, etc., to the Indians for robes and skins and meat. We started soon after seven and traveled to the crossing of the Big Sandy. Then after halting an hour, continued to the Little Sandy, making twenty-five and a quarter miles today, but it was nine o'clock before some of the wagons arrived. The feed is mostly eaten up on the creeks near the road and there is none except on the banks of streams. Bailey Jacobs killed a large antelope which is a matter of rejoicing as we are nearly out of bread stuff and had little meat for several days. We started back from the valley with 8 lbs. of flour, 9 lbs. of meal and a few beans each, and we have to depend on getting meat on the road for the rest. I was told there were 25 lbs. of flour put up for me, but I find it is not so.
Started at eight o'clock and traveled till half past three before halting when we arrived at the crossing of the Pacific creek and halted to camp for the night having traveled twenty-three miles. There is no grass from Little Sandy to this place except a very little on Dry Sandy but the water there has some taste of alkali and teams do not like it. Here there is considerable grass along the creek and very good water but no wood except wild sage. We had a heavy thunder shower about four o'clock and considerable hail. It was dark before the ox teams arrived. Some of the men had killed a buffalo a few miles back, but it is very poor.
It was decided to remain here today to rest the teams, but our ten obtained leave to go on to Sweet Water, expecting to meet the company, and after reading the letter of instructions from the council to this camp, my wagon proceeded on slowly. At the Springs, we saw an aged Indian squaw near the road dwelling in a shelter composed merely of wild sage and apparently dependent on passing emigrants for subsistence. She is doubtless left to perish on account of age and infirmity, but it is likely she will live some time on what she receives from those who pass by. When we arrived near the summit of the dividing ridge or south pass, two Indians rode towards us and motioned for us to stop. Not seeing the other wagons coming after, we stopped to wait for the wagons and the Indians soon arrived. They made signs that a large party of them were over the mountain north and they wanted to "swap." While they were conversing a number more rode over the ridge and soon after a still larger number. About this time the wagons came in sight and when the brethren saw so many Indians they were alarmed. John Pack rode back to the main camp to get some of the brethren to come up, but J. R. said he would not budge a foot. The brethren behind were much alarmed, some expecting to be scalped and one W. Carr ran and hid himself in the sage bushes. No one returned with John Pack but Norman Taylor and the wagons proceeded towards us. In the meantime, after learning the object for which the Indians sought us, that none of them were armed except two, and by a certificate that the first visitor was a Shoshone chief, Brother Lamb and myself signified that we would trade with them and soon some of them returned with antelope, buck and elk skins and robes to trade. I traded some balls and a little powder for one robe, one elk skin, two buckskins and nine antelope skins and a pair of moccasins. Lamb bought five antelope skins. While we were trading, the other wagons arrived and also commenced trading. The Indians, about sixty in number, about twenty of them boys, all mounted, seemed highly pleased to trade with us which we did mostly through the chief. By request of the chief, I gave him a certificate stating that he appeared friendly and wanted to trade with the whites, etc. The chief gave us a very strong invitation to go to their camp to trade and made signs that they would feed us well and we should sleep with them. I answered him by signs that we should camp when we arrived where the road crossed the Sweet Water but they were very anxious to have us then turn off the road and camp. After we started, the chief came up and wanted to swap a good mule for my spy glass but I refused. I had let him look through it and he seemed very wishful to try it. When they saw we were determined to go on, they left us and returned to their camp while we pursued our journey to the first crossing of Sweet Water where we arrived and camped at six o'clock, having traveled fourteen miles.
This morning the cattle belonging to the camp behind came to us early, having strayed away. John Pack and Bailey Jacobs went to drive them back and to trade some with the Indians. We calculated to go on about eleven miles but before we started, Father Eldridge came up with his wagon and said he expected Spencer's 1st 50 company up soon. We then concluded to stay here until they arrived and about three o'clock, their wagons began to cross the creek. I was glad to find Aaron and Loren Farr, and William Walker in this company with their families all well and in good spirits. From Sister Olivia, I received some articles sent by my family which were very acceptable indeed and made me feel grateful. This company all appear well and cheerful and are not much troubled on account of lack of teams. I spent the evening with Loren and their families. The balance of our camp arrived before dark.
Our camp except this ten has started on, but Brother Spencer has concluded to halt here today and I spent the day copying tables of distances for Loren and also gave him a plot of the city.
We bid farewell to Brother Spencer's company and proceeded on. After traveling about a mile, we met P. P. Pratt going to see Brother Spencer and to get some cattle. He says some of the back companies have lost many head and can scarcely move. A few miles farther we met the 2nd 50 of Spencer's company. We traveled till nearly dark and camped with the returning pioneers at the cold spring, having traveled twenty-two and a quarter miles. The day fine and pleasant. We find the grass pretty much eaten off all the way. John G. Smith was appointed captain of the 2nd division in place of Shadrach Roundy who returns.
Started about eight o'clock and after traveling two miles passed Russell's company of 50 and about five miles farther we passed Elder Rich's 50 and G. B. Wallace's 50. They all agree to the health and prosperity of their companies but have lost many cattle and have had hard work to get along. We passed Captains Foutz and Hone on this long drive with their companies all well, but complaining much for lack of teams. I conversed some with Edward Hunter and Elder Taylor. Brother Hunter will give cash for some cattle if he can buy them. We arrived on Sweet Water at six o'clock but the ox teams did not get in till eight o'clock, having traveled twenty-four and a half miles. The evening was very cold, windy and like for rain. Brother Roundy returned back to the valley this morning, having met his family.
We started on this morning following the new road at the north side of the Sweet Water, the road sandy in places but much better than the old road. After traveling about two miles, we saw a lone buffalo about two miles to the south. John Pack and Lisbon Lamb went to try to kill him and finally succeeded, on which our ten halted and sent back a wagon for the meat which detained us about three hours, after which we proceeded again. A little before the road fords the river the second time, there is an alkali lake a little north from the road. We joined the company and also met J. B. Noble's company where the road joins the old one again. Brother Noble's company are all well and not so bad off for teams as some of the other companies. We proceeded on a few miles farther and met J. M. Grant with Willard Snow's 50 which is the last company on the road. Brother Grant had a child die last night and his wife is yet very sick and not much expected to recover. This company have lost many cattle and are so bad off for teams as not to be able to travel more than ten miles a day which would make it some day in October before they get through. We went on nearly two miles farther, then camped for the night near Bitter Cottonwood creek, having traveled fifteen and three quarters miles. Most of the company camped back with Brother Snow's company.
We started late this morning and traveled over a very sandy road till five o'clock, then camped on Ravine Creek, having traveled sixteen miles.
There being alkali springs near, we concluded to go to Independence Rock at which place we arrived about three o'clock having traveled twelve and a half miles. Soon after we camped, Lamb and Jacob Cloward went to chase some buffalo and succeeded in killing one. I walked over the rock and had some solemn meditations and felt to humble myself and call upon the Lord for myself and family, for this company, the twelve and all the companies on the road. Experience has taught me many maxims of late and I intend to profit by them. Be not hasty to promise, lest thy promise be considered worthless. Make not many promises without reflection, lest thou fail to fulfill them and it dampen the confidence of thy friend. If thou promise many things and regard not to fulfill them and it damp the confidence of thy friend, then be assured that thy friends will despise thy promises and have no dependence in them. Seek not to speculate out of a good brother.
This morning the cattle were found down the Sweet Water about six miles from camp which made it late before we started. While passing the alkali lakes, a number of the brethren filled the bags with saleratus. We found the road very sandy to Greasewood Creek and after that it was somewhat better. About three o'clock the wind began to blow very strong and cold and we had heavy rain for about two hours.
We proceeded on and arrived at the Willow Spring a little before dark in the midst of a heavy shower of rain. Thomas Cloward left one of the old oxen sent back by Wallace on the road. It died before morning. All except our ten and William's stayed back at Greasewood Creek. We tried in vain to make a fire but finally went to bed wet and cold, having eaten nothing since morning. Some of the teamsters have only a light summer coat with them and they suffer considerably. We traveled twenty-one and a half miles today.
This morning our cattle were all missing and it still rains and snows very heavily. Pack and T. Cloward started early on foot to hunt the cattle but after following them over seven miles in the storm and seeing that they had kept on the road towards the Platte river, they returned to camp. It rained and snowed heavily till eleven o'clock at which time the balance of the camp arrived. John Pack asked the company to let us have some of their loose cattle to bring on our wagons till we overtook ours again, but the captains both generously refused for some cause or other. However, some of the brethren took their cattle out of their teams and let us have them and we moved onward. After traveling about thirteen miles we saw our cattle about four miles to the left of the road at the foot of a mountain. We halted and Lamb took one of the mules to fetch the cattle to the road. Soon after Pack and Jackson Redding came up and learning that we had found the cattle, they started to them to drive them to camp and Lamb being relieved, returned to the wagon. We harnessed up and arrived at the mineral spring about six o'clock, having traveled sixteen and a quarter miles. This spring has been represented as poisonous but if it is so, it must be in consequence of minerals under the water. The water has no bad taste till the cattle trample in it. It then becomes almost black as ink and this is probably what makes it poisonous.
We started at eight o'clock and arrived at the Upper Platte ferry soon after twelve o'clock. We found N. Jacobs and company there hunting. We forded the river and found it about two feet deep in the channel. We halted on the banks about two hours at which time the whole camp arrived. We then proceeded on. The main company went about five miles but we went till we found a good camping place in a grove of timber on the banks of the river where the road runs through, then halted for night, having traveled nineteen miles.
This morning Norton Jacob's company joined us at eight o'clock and we moved forward. Found the road rough, it being cut up by the other companies in wet weather. We arrived on Deer Creek about sundown and camped for the night, having traveled twenty-two and a quarter miles. The day fine and very pleasant. Joseph Hancock killed an elk which the brethren packed to camp on horseback about sixteen miles.
We have had a strong southwest wind all night and the morning is somewhat cool. We started a little before eight o'clock and had good traveling. We saw many herds of buffalo but the hunters did not get any while passing. We arrived at the river A La Perle at three o'clock and camped for the night having traveled seventeen and a half miles. A while before dark, some of the men came in with a part of a buffalo which they killed. Lewis Barney also killed a young one which was considerably fat. The meat was all packed in on horses. One of the men killed a wolf out of which we got considerable grease for the wagons. It was decided to have a guard each night the remainder of the journey, every man to stand in his turn, four each night.
Got up at twelve o'clock and stood guard till daylight. The morning very fine and pleasant. Three of the brethren arrived from the camp back and said that during the night before last the Indians had stolen sixteen or seventeen of their horses and they were in pursuit of them. We were detained some on account of several of the horses having rambled off, but about nine o'clock we started on and traveled to the La Bonte River, distance nineteen and a half miles. There are many buffalo around here also and although we have plenty of meat, the brethren continue to kill them. We find the feed eaten off bare almost every place we come to and it is difficult to find grass to sustain our teams.
We traveled this day seventeen and three quarters miles and camped by Heber's Spring on Horseshoe Creek. We found the spring had ceased running but there was water in the creek a little north. The roadometer has broken down today over the same ground it broke as we went west. Our bread stuff is now out and we have to live solely on meat the balance of the journey. John Pack has got flour enough to last him through. We have all messed together until ours was eaten, and now John Pack proposes for each man to mess by himself. He has concealed his flour and beans together with tea, coffee, sugar, etc., and cooks after the rest have gone to bed. Such things seem worthy of remembrance for a time to come.
We fixed the roadometer this morning, then traveled to Dead Timber Creek, distance fifteen miles. Here we find good feed and plenty of wood and water.
Started at nine o'clock and traveled till about five, then camped on the Platte River, having traveled twenty-four and a quarter miles. In consequence of some things which have passed and some which at present exist, I have concluded to go on as fast as circumstances will permit to Winter Quarters and I intend to start tomorrow. Some have opposed it, but not with a good grace. However, I have no fears that the council will censure me when they know the cause. If they do, I will bear the censure in preference to what I now bear. Before dark Luke Johnson, William A. Empey and Appleton Harmon came up from Laramie, having learned from an Indian that wagons were near. They say that a party of Sioux warriors have got the brethren's horses, seventeen in number, on the Raw Hide, about eighteen miles north. They say that about fifty armed men might go and probably get them, but not fewer. The Sioux are at war with the Crows and Pawnees and reports say that there is a large party of the Pawnees a little down the river.
We started a little after eight, forded the Platte without any difficulty and at three o'clock concluded to stop for the night, having traveled twenty-one and a quarter miles over very sandy road. The ox teams have kept nearly up with us and it is evident they intend to keep with us or kill their teams, and being aware that if the teams are injured we shall be blamed for it, we have given up going ahead to save the teams.
Today we traveled nineteen and a half miles over good road and camped near the river amongst good grass.
This morning Thomas Brown, Ezra Beckstead, Mathew Welch, Benjamin Roberts, David Perkins and William Bird started to go through to Winter Quarters in consequence of having no bread. We traveled nineteen and three quarters miles and camped again on the Platte. The road very good.
Last night John Pack's gray horse was stolen from his wagon. He lays it to the brethren ahead and with Norton Jacobs and Joseph Hancock has heaped a pretty long string of severe abusive language on them which I consider to be premature, unjustifiable and wicked. Two Frenchmen came to the camp and said they were camped below on a trading excursion among the Sioux. Inasmuch as some of the brethren wanted to trade with them, it was concluded to move down opposite to them. We accordingly traveled four and a quarter miles then again camped on the banks of the river and the brethren bought a number of buffalo robes, etc. Norton Jacobs bought five robes for seven common calico shirts.
The traders say they will move down the river today to where there are plenty of buffalo. Our camp also traveled ten and three quarters miles and camped a little below Chimney Rock. There are many herds of buffalo around and Lewis Barney killed one which will give us a little fresh meat. The weather has been very fine and warm for some days past. This evening there are some signs of stormy weather.
Today we traveled seven and a quarter miles, the day very hot. We turned off the road to camp at Rubidoos' request while they killed some buffalo. They gave us some very nice meat.
We have concluded to wait here until the balance of the company arrives. Afternoon went over the river and had a good feast on buffalo ribs with the Frenchmen. The victuals were cooked by a squaw but looked much cleaner than our men cook it. Evening it became cloudy and soon followed by cold rain which continued till two o'clock.
At one o'clock, I got up to stand guard and found the night extremely cold and unpleasant on account of rain. The morning is cloudy and cold. The wagons have not yet come in sight which makes us think there is something the matter with them.
Today Jackson Redding and Sanderson went back to see if they could see the other wagons. They returned at night and said the company were within a few miles having been detained at Laramie to recover their horses, most of which they got. They state that news has come to the fort by a Sioux Indian that the twelve and their company had all their horses stolen at the Pacific Springs during a snow storm. The Sioux stole them supposing them to belong to the Shoshones. The man that brought the news stole seventeen but lost eight in the mountains, the remainder he brought to Laramie and the brethren there knew some of them and demanded them. He gave them up, at least all they could prove and four of the brethren started with them to meet the twelve. The Indian says there were nine of them who stole the horses.
We resumed our journey this morning and traveled thirteen and a half miles, then camped where the road runs close to the river. The weather is again fine and hot in the day time but the nights are cold and frosty. Joseph Hancock killed a buffalo cow and John Norton an antelope which will supply the company with a little meat each, most of whom are without.
The day cloudy and some like for a storm. We made an early start and traveled to Crab Creek, distance twenty and a quarter miles then camped for the night. The land on both sides the river is literally spotted with vast herds of buffalo, but our hunters are not very lucky as yet. From the fact of there being so many buffalo in this region, we are inclined to believe we shall see but few lower down and this is probably the best chance we will have to lay in a supply to last us home. During the afternoon, Joseph Hancock killed a buffalo cow and Captain Rappleyee sent a wagon to fetch the meat to camp. When it arrived John Pack took the hind quarters and the best meat off the rest of the cow, together with all the tallow, then sent for Rappleyee to take what he had left and divide it amongst the company. When Rappleyee saw what he had done, he felt angry and Pack and he had some high words on the subject. Brother Pack's conduct has caused many unpleasant feelings against him among the brethren. He takes all the tallow he can lay his hands on, and all the best meat and has now got more than will serve him home while many of the rest have scarcely any and that of the poorest pieces. He has plenty of flour, meal, beans, tea, coffee, sugar, etc., while most of the camp are destitute of everything but meat, and while he continues to take the tallow and best of the meat there will be hard feelings against him. He has disgraced himself in the estimation of many within the past few days. I do not think I can ever forget him for his treatment of me, but I cherish no malice nor feelings of revenge, but I hope and pray that I may forever have wisdom to keep from under his power. There have been six or eight buffalo killed by the camp and it is intended to stay here tomorrow and try to get meat to last us through as it is not likely we shall have another privilege as good as this. Most of the camp now begin to feel that it is necessary for us to make our way home as fast as possible to save our teams and escape the cold rain and snowstorms.
Many of the brethren are gone out hunting. The weather continues fine and warm. In the afternoon we had a strong northwest wind. During the day the second division killed more than enough meat to last them home, but were totally unwilling to let the first division have any although they killed none, not having but two or three guns in the division. This also has tended to increase the feeling of envy and bitterness which already exists too much. Thomas Cloward has manifested feelings and conduct worse than the general run of gentiles and unworthy of a saint. He seems to have drunk into Pack's spirit for they act very much alike.
Those of the first division who have no meat have concluded to move on a few miles to where there are more buffalo as they have mostly left here, but the second division will not move till they have dried their meat some. We went on three miles and then camped where there are plenty of buffalo over the river. Lisbon Lamb, Lewis Barney and John Norton volunteered to go and kill what meat they can for those who have none. They have got enough to last them through. It is said that our coming down here has given feelings but it is plain and evident that there are several men who will find fault and deal out wholesale censure whatever is done, and for my part I shall remember John Pack, Thomas Cloward, Norton Jacobs and Joseph Hancock for some time to come. Such little, selfish, unmanly conduct as has been manifested by them, is rarely exhibited except by the meanest classes of society. A man who will openly and boldly steal is honorable when compared with some of their underhanded conduct. During the day the brethren killed five cows and one bull which are considered sufficient to last the first division home.
We waited till after nine o'clock for the second division to come up but not being yet in sight we moved onward, traveled seventeen and a half miles, then camped on Sand Hill Creek about a mile from the river. We have seen more buffalo today than I ever saw in one day, supposed to be not less than 200,000. We had some trouble to make a road through them safely. We also saw two horses with the herd. Jackson Redding went to try and catch them but found them perfectly wild.
We got an early start this morning and traveled till four o'clock, distance twenty and a quarter miles. We camped near the river in high grass. The road has run close to the river all day except a few miles beyond Castle Creek and although the ground is perfectly dry, it is very rough, it having been cut up in wet weather. Watch and Wolfe Creeks had abundance of water in them, as much as when we went up. Castle River was about a foot deep. We have not seen many buffalo today but after we camped, John Norton shot two at one shot. L. Barney also killed a young cow. The weather is yet fine and very warm.
This day we traveled only sixteen and a quarter miles, then camped a quarter of a mile east of Rattlesnake Creek on the banks of the river. In this creek, there is still a very heavy current of water running. It appears that some of the brethren left their fires burning this morning and the prairie has caught fire and is still burning furiously.
This morning I wrote a short letter and left it in a post for the company behind. We traveled twenty miles and camped on Bluff Creek. The day fine and very warm.
This morning we calculated to travel eleven miles, but on arriving at the North Bluff fork, we found no grass and were compelled to continue on. We traveled till the road strikes the river and some grass, then camped, having traveled eighteen and a half miles. Three buffalo have been killed today and there are considerable in this region. Two of the oxen gave out and had to be left on the road.
This morning we traveled four and a quarter miles, then camped opposite some islands where there is pretty good feed and willows. The day has been exceedingly warm and the brethren have dried a good quantity of meat. Considerable anxiety and feeling has originated in the breasts of two or three brethren in consequence of a rumor being circulated which deeply concerns one individual but it is not known whom. In the evening, a strong north wind blew up which made it turn very cool.
Cool and pleasant. We traveled twenty and three quarters miles and found that the last company have made a new road near the bluffs to avoid a very bad slough. We went a little on the old road and then struck across to the new road but had considerable difficulty in crossing the slough. We camped beside a small lake of not very good water and several miles from timber.
Pleasant day. We traveled nineteen miles, then turned off the road about a half a mile to camp near a small bunch of timber. The brethren have killed a good many buffalo today. They are very plentiful here, and wolves abundant.
The largest part of the company again concluded to tarry a day again although there is little feed here. Some determined to go on a piece and amongst the rest, I felt more willing to go on than to tarry. Accordingly eleven wagons started, viz. Jackson Redding, William A. Empey, Lewis Barney, Roswell Stevens, Cummings, Joseph Hancock, H. W. Sanderson, John Pack, Thos. Cloward, Zebedee Coltrin and Norton Jacobs. We traveled seventeen and a half miles and then turned off the road about a half a mile to camp.
We started a little before 10:00 a.m. and traveled till nearly dark and had then to run over a mile from the road to camp. We traveled nineteen and a quarter miles. Wind very strong from the north and a very cold day.
Just as we started this morning, twelve or fifteen Indians were seen running over the river towards us. They soon came up to the wagons which were somewhat scattered and although they shook hands, they showed savage hostility. Four of the oxen were not yet yoked up; these they drove off from the wagons which now began to draw together. They soon satisfied us that they were bent on robbing us and without ceremony took Jack Redding's horse from behind the wagon. Lamb went to take it from them and seized the lariat which another immediately cut with his knife. Lamb then got on the horse, but no sooner on than two Indians pulled him off and marched off with the horse. They stole Jack Redding's knife out of its sheath and one from John Pack. They also tried to get Jack off the horse he was riding, but he kept his seat. They tried Skeen's horse but he kicked one of them over. The Indians then tried to get the men out of their wagons so that they might get in and plunder, but every man kept in his wagon to guard it and we concluded to turn about and go back to the company. We accordingly started and the Indians turned back towards the timber with the horse, four oxen, two knives and a sack of salt. After traveling back about six miles, we met the company, told the story and bore their slang and insults without saying much, but not without thinking a great deal. The whole company were then formed in two lines. All the arms were loaded and each man that could raise a gun was ordered to walk beside the wagons, the horsemen to go ahead. We then proceeded on and when we came opposite to where we met with the Indians, the horsemen went down and found the oxen where we left them. They brought them and we traveled till dark, then camped near the river, having traveled five and a quarter miles from last night, exclusive of the distance we went back. A strong guard was placed around the cattle and camp and kept up through the night. Many hard speeches have passed among the brethren, such as "damned hypocrites," "damned liars," "mutineers," etc., and most of those who started ahead are ordered to travel in the rear all the time. This savage, tyrannical conduct was one thing which induced some to leave and undertake to go through alone and more peaceably and it will still leave feelings of revenge and hatred which will require some time to cover up. Young Babcock shook his fist in Zebedee Coltrin's face and damned him and said he could whip him. For my part, I shall be glad when I get in more peaceable society, and I think I shall not easily be caught in such a scrape again.
We have had no disturbance from Indians. We started at six o'clock and went on five miles to get better feed. We then halted for breakfast. The remainder of the day's travel was mostly over dog towns. A United States soldier came up to the wagons and went with us a few miles. He says there are ninety of them on the island surveying and looking out a place to build a fort. We traveled seventeen and a quarter miles today, then camped near a low bench of land where there is plenty of grass and water and willows for fuel. A number of the soldiers came over to camp. They say the Pawnees are perfectly enraged and savage and that the worst band of between four and five hundred are on the north side the Platte about forty miles below.
Morning fine but cold wind. The captains called the camp together and asked whether we shall wait here three days or a week for the twelve, or shall we continue on to Winter Quarters. Thirty men voted to go on, seventeen voted to wait and the remainder did not vote. The majority having voted to go on, we started and traveled very slowly till about five o'clock, then turned off to the river to camp, having traveled sixteen miles. There are many new tracks of Indians on the sand bar, but we have seen none today.
Morning, cloudy and cold. We have had a little very cold rain and there is great appearance for more. We started on but it continued to rain heavily till near noon. The afternoon was fair but very cold. We traveled twenty-one and a quarter miles and camped amongst high grass close to timber. There is every chance for Indians tonight if any are near. The camp in general are much dissatisfied with the camping place.
This morning the weather was severely cold with strong wind. Some of the cattle were missing and the owners not going to hunt them till the rest were ready to start on, we were detained till eleven o'clock and then proceeded. We found plenty of water in Wood River but did not lose much time crossing. We took one of the late wagon trails and arrived on Prairie Creek a little before sundown, having traveled fifteen and three quarters miles. We have seen no Indians yet and all goes well but the cold weather.
Morning very cold indeed with strong northwest wind. We found the creek difficult to cross, it being soft and miry, but all soon got over safely and we proceeded on. The road is sandy about five or six miles on the bluffs and very crooked all the way. We arrived and camped on the Loup Fork at dark, having traveled twenty-one and three quarters miles. The day has been excessively cold.
Much time was lost this morning in hunting for a place to cross the river. It was finally concluded to cross a mile higher up and we proceeded to the place. While going up we saw a company of horsemen and two wagons on the other side the river, which we soon recognized to be our brethren from Winter Quarters. All the wagons got over safely and camped on the hill, having traveled two miles. The company is a part of the old police going to meet the next company. We were gladdened with the news they bring from Winter Quarters.
The brethren of the police started early this morning to go on and meet the next company. They got well over the river but not without getting into the water to lift at the wagon wheels. It was late when we started on account of some oxen being missing and there are some who will not look for their cattle till all the rest are ready to start. We traveled till a little after three and camped on the banks of the Loup Fork, distance twelve and three quarters miles, day warmer.
The night has been very stormy, there being a strong wind, rain, and very cold. We made an early start and by noon arrived at the mission station. We found the Pawnees busy gathering corn, probably nearly a thousand of men, women and children. They soon began to come to the wagons and their chiefs made inquiries by signs about the Chirrarots or Sioux. Some of the brethren gave them to understand that the Sioux were within five days of them. The chief immediately gave the word to the rest and in half an hour the squaws had loaded their corn on ponies and mules and then began to march towards the river. They show great fear of the Sioux. They were very anxious to have us camp with them tonight but we kept moving on. One of the wagons was upset crossing a ravine. Several of the brethren traded for corn. At three o'clock, we arrived and turned out the teams on Beaver River, having traveled seventeen and a quarter miles. Soon after we arrived, some of the Indians came up, having followed with the idea of trading. They have conducted themselves peaceably so far, but they are not to be trusted. In consequence of their following us, it was the feeling of most of the brethren to go on a few miles after dark. At 5:45 we started on and traveled till 8:30 being six and a half miles, then camped beside the lakes. Evening very fine and pleasant. We have traveled twenty-three and three quarters miles today.
We started early and traveled to Looking Glass, then halted for breakfast. Morning windy and cold. After breakfast, we started on again and traveled till four o'clock, distance sixteen and a quarter miles, then camped at a point of timber near a creek or lake and not far from the Loup Fork.
Started at eight o'clock and traveled to Shell Creek distance eighteen and three quarters miles, day pleasant but cool.
The night was excessively cold and this morning there is considerable ice. We got an early start and traveled to where the road leaves the river and crosses to the Horn. At this place there is a liberty pole set up by some of the brethren. We have traveled today twenty-three and a quarter miles and we now find that the grass is all burned off ahead of us as far as we can see, probably to the Elk Horn. We are cheered by a view of the timber on that stream.
We started early and found the prairie all burned off to the Elk Horn except in small patches. We arrived at the Horn about noon and soon after commenced crossing where Hosea Stout and company crossed. The water was nearly three feet deep and the bottom somewhat soft, but we were soon all over without accident except John Pack, who broke his wagon tongue. We then had to make a road through high, strong grass for upwards of half a mile and found a very bad creek or slough to cross. When we again struck the main road, we found it good and started for the Papea where we arrived soon after dark, all except one wagon which was left a mile back. The evening cool and windy.
This morning, Brother Empey, Lamb and myself started early accompanied by six horsemen and arrived in Winter Quarters a little before noon. I found my family all well except Moroni who is very sick and his mother is somewhat sick. Their circumstances are not good, but in other respects they have been prosperous for which I thank my God. There has been much sickness here and many deaths during the fall and many are now suffering for lack of some of the comforts of life. We have been prosperous on our journey home and have arrived in nine weeks and three days, including a week's delay waiting for the twelve and killing buffalo. Our health has been remarkably good, but we have lacked provisions, many of us having nothing but dry buffalo meat. I have succeeded in measuring the whole distance from the City of the Great Salt Lake to this place, except a few miles between Horse Creek and the A La Bonte River which was taken from the measurement going up. I find the whole distance to be 1,032 miles and am now prepared to make a complete traveler's guide from here to the Great Salt Lake, having been careful in taking the distance from creek to creek, over bluffs, mountains, etc. It has required much time and care and I have continually labored under disadvantages in consequence of the companies feeling no interest in it. The health of my family has encouraged me for all that is past and my secret gratitude shall ascend to Heaven for the unbounded kindness and mercies which the Almighty has continually poured upon them in my absence.