Manufacturers of all kinds of

Embroidery and Sewing Machine Silks.

Filoselles in 400 Shades.

Knitting and Crewel Silks in great variety.
Fast-dyed Embroidery Silk for Outlining.

THE PEACOCK ICE SILK

Is one of the most successful materials ever made, it DOES NOT CHAFE in working, and after considerable wear RETAINS ITS SILKY CHARACTER.

It is well adapted for Socks, Stockings, Shawls, Vests, Ties, Gloves, &c., &c.

It is made in two sizes, two-fold and four-fold; the two-fold being more suitable for Crochet purposes, can also be used for Ladies’ fine Hose.

LIST OF SHADES IN STOCK (four-fold)

TWO-FOLD.—Pale Blue, Pale Blue 2, Light Blue, Azuline, Royal, Navy, Grey, Buff, Flesh, Old Gold, Prune, Pink, Coral, Cardinal, Scarlet, Ruby, Cream, White and Black.

Put up in Half-ounce Balls. Boxed One Dozen Balls of a Shade.

The qualities and sorts mentioned in the following instructions are of the very best kind and make, and eminently suitable for all Knitting and Crochet purposes.

Besides these, there are other qualities and makes of Peacock Brand, as—

All of these are made from good quality Wool, are full value at their prices, and give great satisfaction: still, the Peacock Qualities are universally admitted to be superior to any other, and they were Highly Commended and obtained a Certificate at the Sydney International Exhibition in 1879, in spite of the very large and extensive exhibits of numerous other makes and brands, all of which were deemed inferior.

Ladies should be most particular to procure Peacock Qualities, or qualities under Peacock Brand if they desire their work to be of a superior kind.

WHOLESALE ONLY AT
FAUDEL, PHILLIPS, & SONS’,
36, 37, 38, 39, & 40, NEWGATE STREET,
LONDON.

In presenting this book to the Public of useful Knitted and Crochet Articles, I wish to give a few suggestions with regard to the Wools used and the mode of washing them.

No Wool is so cheap as the best. It is false economy (I have tested it constantly) to work with inferior Wools. From a very long and tried experience I have the greatest confidence in fully recommending Peacock Qualities; they are full measure, and extra good. If washed according to the directions I give, and not washed oftener than necessary, I have no doubt of their wear. Little children’s knitted garments should always be washed in the nursery, or at home. The following is an admirable method; but, where it can be done, all Knitting and Crochet should be “blocked” to dry. The “block” is a piece of evenly-planed hard wood—generally box-wood—cut the size and shape of the garment. In some cases the blocks are earthenware. Little feet, and models of children’s legs and feet, can be procured in nearly all sizes. The work, when washed and wringed, but not wrung, must be drawn on the blocks and left to dry quickly in a warm place.

TO WASH WOOL.

All fine Shetland, or other finely-combed and spun Wools, should be washed in a lather of bran—no soap, unless very dirty. A gallon of boiling water should be poured over 1 lb. of bran, and the two stirred well together in a boiling state for five or six minutes; leave it in a pancheon or basin all night; in the morning pour off the water, make it lukewarm, wash your work in it, then rinse in lukewarm clean soft water and block till dry. Where you have not a block, cover a board with a clean cloth and pin the work out to dry. If the work is much soiled, take a little transparent soap (it is the most free from all injurious matters), mix into a lather in a little warm water, and gently wash the work in the lather (on no account rub the work with soap), rinse in cold water, and block.

TAM O’SHANTER CAP.

Knitted, for a Man.

You require 2 ozs. Navy Blue Eider Wool, ½ oz. Scarlet Single Berlin for the Tuft, 9 needles, No. 15 for a very tight knitter, No. 16 for a loose knitter. The cap knitted by these directions measured 12 stitches to the inch, laid perfectly flat, with no stretching whatever.

Cast 4 stitches on to one needle. Knit these off on to 4 separate needles, using a 5th, and work in rounds.

1st row—Knit plain.

[Pg 8]

2nd row—Knit 2 stitches on each of the 4 needles. You work these by knitting 2 in each stitch: knit the stitch, and before taking it from the left needle put the right needle between the two threads on the left needle, take up the back part and knit a stitch on it. All the increasings in the work are made in this manner.

3rd row—Knit plain.

4th row—Increase in the first stitch on each needle.

5th row—Knit plain. Repeat these two rows twice more.

10th row—Increase in every 3rd stitch.

11th, 12th and 13th rows—Knit plain. Repeat these 4 rows 3 more times.

26th row—Increase in every 4th stitch.

27th, 28th, 29th and 30th rows, plain. Repeat these 5 last rows 4 times.

51st row—Increase in every 5th stitch.

52nd and 4 next rows—Knit plain. Repeat from the 51st row 5 more times.

[Pg 9]

86th row—Increase every 6th stitch. In this round mark the beginning of the round with some white thread, as it is essential to keep the rows distinct. You will have to take more needles as they fill. 7 rounds plain.

94th round—Increase every 7th stitch.

95th and 7 next rounds plain.

103rd round—Increase every 8th stitch.

104th and next 8 rounds plain.

113th round—Increase every 9th stitch. Knit 10 rounds plain.

124th round—Increase every 10th stitch. 10 rounds plain.

134th round—Increase every 11th stitch. 20 rounds plain.

164th round—Decrease by knitting 2 together every 11th and 12th stitches. 10 rounds plain.

175th round—Knit together every 10th and 11th stitches. 9 rounds plain.

185th round—Knit together every 9th and 10th stitches. 9 rounds plain.

[Pg 10]

193rd round—Knit together every 8th and 9th stitches. 8 rounds plain.

201st round—Knit together every 7th and 8th stitches. 7 rounds plain.

208th round—Knit together every 6th and 7th stitches. 6 rows plain.

You now rib in alternate stitches of knit 1, purl 1, knitting each stitch from the back of the loop, 30 rows, and cast off.

The work must now be flattened, and shaped. Cut a round of stiff cardboard slightly larger than the work, put the work on the board and damp it, leave it on the board until it is quite dry. You line it with thin silk, and add the tuft.

The Tuft is made by winding the scarlet wool over card. Take a piece of card, 1½ in. wide—it must be smooth and strong—double over it a piece of fine wire the length of the card. Over the wire and the card wind the wool until the whole is wound, take the ends of the wire and twist the wool firmly and strongly together with it, slip the wool off the card; this makes a firm, compact tuft. You cut the top open, cut it level with sharp scissors, and sew into the middle of the hat.

[Pg 11]

TAM O’SHANTER in Crochet.

Work with two contrasting colours of the Peacock A. A. Fingering, one skein of each, and a fine bone crochet hook, No. 12. Make a chain of 8, with one colour only, unite.

2nd row—Work in double crochet.

3rd row—Work 2 double crochet in every stitch.

4th row—Work each stitch in alternate colours, passing the wool at the back from one to the other, and increase in every 3rd stitch.

5th row—Plain.

6th row—Increase every 3rd stitch.

7th and 8th rows—Plain.

9th row—Increase every 3rd stitch.

[Pg 12]

10th and 3 next rows—No increasings. Repeat these 5 rows 5 more times.

34th row—Increase every 6th stitch. 4 rows plain. Repeat these 5 rows until your work measures 16 inches across, work 10 more plain rounds, and from that round begin to decrease every 6th stitch. This is done by taking up the 1st on the needle, then the 2nd, and working the two as one. Four rounds plain; repeat these 5 rounds until your work from the last of the 10 plain rounds measures 4½ inches. You then take up the stitches on 5 knitting needles, and knit 20 rounds, with one colour only, of 1 purl, 1 plain, and cast off.

The Cap should be lined, and a tuft made in the same manner as directed in the receipt for a Knitted Cap.

JACK TAR, for a Man.

In imitation of Plush.

In some of our shops this shape is wrongly sold as the Tam O’Shanter; that shape is much larger, and the under part much deeper than the Jack Tar.

This Cap has a very soft appearance, and is light and warm. For a fancy dress use light pink, blue, or cream; for general winter wear, maroon or dark grey. You will require 5 oz. of Peacock Fingering and a No. 12 hook: about the same quantity of Peacock Lady Betty, and more if Fleecy is used. If the work is combed after it is finished, the Fleecy should be used, as it wastes the wool.

Make a chain of 40 stitches.

[Pg 14]

1st row—Double crochet.

2nd row—Put the hook in the 1st stitch, wind the wool over the hook and round the 1st finger of the left hand twice, draw the loops on the needle through the double crochet loop, and finish as usual. Work the whole row in this manner.

3rd row—Turn and work in single crochet.

These two rows are worked throughout; repeat them twice more. They will be called one row in the remainder of the directions.

6th row—Work 8 stitches, turn, work back.

7th row—Work 8, and 4 more on the last long row, turn, work back.

8th row—Work 12, and 4 more, turn, work back. Work in this manner until all are raised, then work 3 more whole rows, working the 40 stitches. Repeat from the 6th row until the work lies flat on the table and meets easily. You will have to repeat it 9 more times according to some workers, perhaps more with a tight worker. When the top is finished and joined together, you work round the outside edge[Pg 15] of the work 6 rounds of loop crochet, work round and round, and work 1 stitch on the stitch of the preceding row, always taking up the two edges of the stitch.

You now decrease for the under rim; this is not very wide, the whole depth not being more than 1 inch. If the hat is being made as a special fit, take the measure of the head, then measure the work, and decrease gradually to the exact size; 6 rows of decreasings only are required. For an ordinary hat, work for 6 rounds every 5th and 6th stitches as one. After these rounds, you work 12 rounds of plain double crochet for the head. The name of the wearer or a ship should be crocheted into the band.

The letters should be drawn out on a piece of point paper; this is divided into little squares 1-16th of an inch in size. Then you take a coloured wool; each square represents a stitch, the letters are worked in red or gold, in double crochet, by simply passing the wool used as the ground at the back of that used for the letters. It makes a better effect to work the letters[Pg 16] by putting the needle into the stitch, pull the wool through, the wool on the needle, put the needle into the same stitch again, and draw through the wool on the needle and through all the loops on the needle. This stitch raises the work.

You must next cut the loops of wool open and trim them neatly with a sharp pair of scissors, and you have an exact imitation of fur.

The crochet work of the hat is now finished. Quilt a lining and sew in the head. Cut a piece of lining muslin, 3 doubles, for the brim (or a piece of leather), sew inside the 12 rows of crochet for the head, and add strings at the back.

A tassel of silk is made in the same way as the tuft, and placed in the middle of the crown.

DUNDEE BONNET.

Knitted in red and black Victoria yarn, or any other mixture; black Head-piece in crochet; a crochet-hook, No. 14.; six needles, No. 14.

Make a chain with the crochet-hook, working rather tightly, that will measure 22 inches. On this work a row of single crochet, thus, * the needle in the next stitch, draw the wool through and through the loop on the hook; repeat from *, at the end of the chain join to the first double crochet. On this foundation work very tightly, 12 rows of crochet. Work each row with the same stitch.

[Pg 18]

1st row of Head-piece—The wool on the needle, insert in the next stitch; draw the wool through, and then through the three stitches on the needle. When the 12 rows are finished, take up all the stitches on five knitting needles, an equal number on each; knit with the sixth. The 1st needle is the first half of the back; the 2nd, the side; the 3rd, the front; the 4th needle, the second side; the 5th, the last half of the back. Knit plain to the middle of the 4th needle, turn, purl the stitches to the middle of the 2nd needle, turn, slip the first, * knit 1, purl 1; repeat from * to the middle of the 4th needle, and increase in every 8th stitch; knit 4 stitches less on the 4th needle than you did before, * turn, purl the purled stitch of last row, knit the knitted, and leave 4 less at the end of this half-round. Repeat from *, increasing every 7th stitch in every 3rd row, and leaving 3 stitches instead of 4, as in the first repetition, then 2 stitches each repetition, until you have one quarter of the stitches left on the 3rd needle. You must now work all these stitches, and, as you take up each set of two, work an extra one on the side of the last, between[Pg 19] it and the first of the two next; knit the whole round, increasing on the remainder of the 4th, 5th, 1st and 2nd needles, every 6th stitch. Work the increasings by knitting 2 in one stitch, as directed in the pattern, No. 1.

You must now knit in rounds, and increase every alternate round in the 6th stitch until the knitting at the back measures 1½ inches above the band. The front must be 5½ inches deep; it will require some more shaped rows, therefore, before you work the last 6 rounds of the back. Work on the 2nd, 3rd and 4th needles as many more half-rows, repeating the directions, until you have the right depth.

You now work the 6 rounds to finish the Head-piece, increasing every 6th stitch in each alternate round.

You next work 18 rounds with no decreasings; then decrease for the crown.

The knitting, according to the work from which this is written, measured 36 inches in circumference. Make a decreasing every 16th and 17th stitch by knitting those two stitches together; the 2nd and 3rd rounds no decreasings. Knit in this manner until there are only 10 stitches on the needle, cast these off with a row of double crochet, make a rosette, and place in the centre; add ribbons behind. Line the head with silk, and the band with thin leather or double linen.

[Pg 20]

BICYCLING OR PATROL CAP.

Crocheted with Andalusian wool, and a fine bone crochet hook; a knot of fine mohair cord, or very fine black bobbin cord; the former is the best for use. The whole of the crochet is worked over this cord, which gives a raised appearance, and makes the shape better.

Make a chain of 4, unite, draw the cord through the chain, loop it securely over the cord and chain; work 8 double crochet. The cord must, throughout the work, be held in its place by the finger[Pg 21] and thumb of the left hand, keeping it at the edge of the row, underneath and behind the needle.

2nd round—In the 8 double crochet work 16 treble. Take up all the stitches through both loops, or your work will not have the ribbed appearance it should have.

3rd round—Work 2 treble in every stitch.

4th and successive rounds—Work round and round, increasing to keep the work flat, until you have 15 rounds. You now commence the band round the hat. In the first round you must slightly tighten together the cord, as well as in succeeding rounds, to keep it the right shape; work 9 rounds for this head-band, and finish with 2 of double crochet. You then line with black linen, and sew in a piece of leather. Work a small round of crochet to cover a button for the centre, and make a crochet rosette to go round it.

The Rosette.

Make a chain of 8, unite.

In this work 1 chain, 1 double crochet, 8 times.

2nd round—1 double crochet in the first chain, *2 treble on the double crochet, 1 double crochet in the next chain; repeat from *.

3rd round—1 double crochet on the double crochet, * 5 treble on the 2 treble, 1 double crochet on the next double crochet, repeat from *. Take the cord and work it round the next row.

4th round—* 1 double crochet on the double crochet, 2 treble on the 1st treble, 1 long on the 2nd, 2 double long on the 3rd, 1 long and 1 treble on the 4th, 1 treble on the 5th; repeat from *.

6th round—1 single on each stitch of last row. This is laid on the middle of the hat and the button placed in the centre.

[Pg 22]

TARBUCH

In black netting silk and gold thread.

The Tarbuch is taken from one worked in Egypt, and is the correct shape. It is worked with very fine purse silk, twelve skeins; Japanese or Chinese gold thread, the finest size, wind this in balls; a fine[Pg 23] crochet hook. The pattern consists of a star in the centre of the crown: this star has 10 divisions, a border of vine leaves round the edge, and powdered ground.

Commence the crown with black silk, with a chain of 4, unite; in this work 10 double crochet.

2nd round—In every stitch of last round work 1 black and 1 gold. In working with two colours you should knot the two threads together in beginning, and throughout the work hold both evenly over the same finger of the left hand, then, as you proceed, keep the thread not in use in regular rotation over and under the thread in use; by this means you work them in. Care must be taken never to completely finish a stitch with the one colour; if it is done you have two stitches of the colour and throw the pattern wrong. In this 2nd round put the needle into the stitch, draw through the black silk, take up the gold and finish the stitch; take up the next stitch with gold, finish it with black. You have now two distinct stitches.

3rd round—1 black on the black, 2 gold on the 1 in last round.

[Pg 24]

4th round—1 black on the black, 3 gold on the 2 in the last round.

5th round—1 black on the black, 4 gold on the 3 underneath.

6th round—1 black on the black, 5 gold on the 4 underneath.

7th round—1 black on the black, 6 gold on the 5 underneath.

8th round—1 black on the black, 7 gold over the 6.

9th round—1 black on the black, 8 gold over the 7.

10th round—1 black on the black, 9 gold over the 8.

11th round—1 black on the black, 10 gold over the 9.

12th round—1 black on the black, 11 gold over the 10.

13th round—1 black on the black, 12 gold over the 11.

[Pg 25]

14th round—1 black on the black, 13 gold over the 12.

15th round—1 black on the black, 14 gold over the 13.

16th round—1 black on the black, 15 gold over the 14.

17th round—2 black on the 1st black, * 14 gold over 14 gold, 1 black on the 15th, 2 black on the next black; repeat from *.

18th round—5 black over the 3 black, 13 gold over 13 gold.

19th round—Care must be taken to make the gold begin exactly on the same stitch in each division, as the right-hand side of each must be even, one less worked each row on the left side. 3 black, 1 gold, 3 black over the 3 black and the last gold; 12 gold over the 12 gold.

20th round—Over the 13th gold and 7 black work 9 black, 11 gold over 11.

21st round—10 gold over 10, on the last gold and the black work 11 black.

[Pg 26]

22nd round—9 gold over 9, 2 black, 1 gold, 7 black, 1 gold, 2 black, over the 11 and last.

23rd round—8 gold over 8, 15 black over the 13 black and 1 gold.

24th round—7 gold over 7, 17 black over the 15 and last gold.

25th round—6 gold over 6, 9 black, 1 gold, 9 black over the black.

26th round—5 gold over 5, 21 black over the black.

27th round—4 gold over 4, 23 black over 21 underneath.

28th round—3 gold over 3, 8 black, 1 gold, 7 black, 1 gold, 8 black, over the black.

29th round—2 gold over 2, 27 black.

30th round—1 gold over 1, 30 black.

31st round—On the point of the star (the one gold stitch) work 2 with black; on the next black work 7 black, 1 gold, 7 black, 1 gold, 7 black, 1 gold, 7 black; then repeat with 2 on the next gold.

[Pg 27]

32nd round—Between each point increase 3 stitches, and work entirely with black.

33rd round—Black, and no increasings.

34th round—You work 1 gold exactly between the 1st gold stitch in the 31st round and the point, then 7 black, 1 gold, repeating all round.

35th and 36th rounds—Black; repeat from 34th round 5 more times. In the last plain row work an extra stitch every 23rd stitch.

52nd round—* 8 black, 1 gold, 7 black, 1 gold, 7 black, 1 gold, 7 black, 1 gold; repeat from *.

53rd and 54th rounds—Repeat these 3 rounds twice more; increase until you have 360 stitches, which will bring you to the part for the border. Work a row of black double crochet, and begin

The Border.

1st round—2 black, 3 gold, * 12 black, 3 gold, repeat from *; end the round with 10 black.

2nd round—6 gold, 8 black, * 7 gold, 8 black, repeat from *; end the round with 1 gold.

[Pg 28]

3rd round—4 black, 3 gold, * 4 black, 4 gold, 4 black, 3 gold, repeat from *, and end the round with 4 gold.

4th round—* 7 gold, 3 black, 3 gold, 2 black, repeat from *.

5th round—2 gold, * 4 black, 1 gold, 3 black, 2 gold, 1 black, 4 gold, repeat from *, and end the round with 2 gold.

6th round—1 gold, * 7 black, 3 gold, 1 black, 4 gold, repeat from *; end the round with 3 gold.

7th round—* 8 black, 2 gold, 1 black, 4 gold, repeat from *.

8th round—* 9 black, 4 gold, repeat from *, and end the round with 2 black.

9th round—* 5 gold, 2 black, 2 gold, 1 black, 2 gold, 3 black, repeat from *.

10th round—1 gold, * 3 black, 3 gold, 6 black, 3 gold, repeat from *; end the row with 2 gold.

11th round—* 6 black, 3 gold, 2 black, 3 gold, 7 black, repeat from *, and end the round with 1 black.

[Pg 29]

12th round—* 2 gold, 1 black, 2 gold, 3 black, 4 gold, 2 black, 3 gold, 1 black, repeat from *; end round with 1 gold.

13th round—3 black, 4 gold, * 11 black, 4 gold, repeat from *, and end with 8 black.

14th round—1 black, * 2 gold, 1 black, 4 gold, 8 black, repeat from *, and end with 7 black.

15th round—1 black, 3 gold, * 1 black, 4 gold, 7 black, 3 gold, repeat from *; end the round with 6 black.

16th round—3 black, * 2 gold, 2 black, 3 gold, 4 black, 1 gold, 3 black, repeat from *, and end the round with 1 gold.

17th round—3 black, 4 gold, * 2 black, 6 gold, 3 black, 4 gold, repeat from *; end with 1 gold.

18th round—* 4 black, 5 gold, 3 black, 3 gold, repeat from *.

19th round—7 black, * 7 gold, 8 black, repeat from *.

20th round—10 black, * 4 gold, 11 black, repeat from *, and end the round with 1 black.

[Pg 30]

21st, 22nd and 23rd rounds—Black.

24th round—* 7 black, 1 gold, repeat from *.

25th round—* 5 black, 3 gold, repeat from *.

26th and 27th rounds—Gold only, and fasten off.

This completes the Cap. It should, properly speaking, be put upon a block; this may be made of cardboard. Line the Cap through with a blue satin lining, gathering it in at the top and sew over neatly with a large button covered with satin. This must not be sewn in until the tassel is passed through.

The Tassel.

Wind the netting silk round a piece of cardboard 5 inches long, wind a sufficient quantity to make it look handsome. Under the silk pass a doubled length, and tie it all together very tightly, slip it off the card, and wind two thicknesses of silk firmly over the tied end for the depth of three-quarters of an inch, leave an end about half a yard long, thread a strong needle with this end, pass it through the tassel, under the silk wound over, and bring the needle out at the top; make a firm chain of about 2 inches long with this silk.

You next crochet a covering for the top of the tassel. This is worked in double crochet. Begin with 5 chain, work 7 double crochet on it, on the 7 double crochet work 10, on the 10 work 14, and increase until it will fit tightly over the silk you have wound over; work the depth to cover the winding, sew it down strongly. Pass the chain through the foundation chain of the cap, and sew very securely.

[Pg 31]

FISHERMAN’S CAP, for a Man.

One oz. of dark red, one oz. of gold wool.

These Caps should be knitted in stripes to suit[Pg 32] the Jersey, jacket, or shirt of the wearer. They are knitted in Merino wool, or 2-fold Ice silk, on No. 17 needles. On a Lamb’s knitting machine use the finest red silk; knit the Cap the full length in stripes; then, on each side and in the middle, decrease until you come to a point; sew this together, and the hat is made.

To knit the Cap with the wool or silk named, cast on on 4 needles 260 stitches with red wool, knit 16 rounds; change, take the gold, knit 16 rounds. Knit 16 stripes in this manner, 8 of red, 8 of gold, then begin to decrease for the top.

Black stripe—Knit 2, knit 2 together, knit 57, knit 2 together, knit 4, knit 2 together, knit 57, knit 2 together, knit 4, knit 2 together, knit 57, knit 2 together, knit 4, knit 2 together, knit 57, knit 2 together, knit 2.

Knit 3 rounds plain.

5th round—Knit like the first row in the black stripe, but with 55 stitches between, instead of 57. Work in this manner, with 3 plain rounds between each round of decreasing, until you have 41 stitches[Pg 33] between each set of decreasings, then decrease every 3rd round until you have only 27 on the needle between the decreasings; after that, decrease every alternate round until the decreased stitches come close together; you then * knit 2, knit 2 together, all round; repeat from *. In the next round knit 1, * knit 3 together, knit 2, repeat from *; then decrease by knitting 2 together every stitch until you have a point. Make a tassel of the two colors, and sew on to the point. Hem up the foundation round inside the work, folding the knitting evenly in the middle of the third black stripe.

This Cap can, of course, be knitted in any material; the finer the wool, the more suitable. The size must be determined by measuring the head; knit a small piece of knitting of 20 stitches square with the materials you intend to use, and measure this with a tape measure. A simple multiplication of the number of stitches you have in an inch will enable you at once to cast on the required number of stitches, then work as directed. A very handsome Cap is made by using a combination of colors. Commence with black, ¼-inch, 3 rounds of red, 1 of gold, 2 of blue, 1 of gold, 2 of red, 3 of gold, 2 of red, 1 of gold, 5 of blue, 1 of gold, 2 of red, 3 of gold, 2 of red, 1 of gold, 2 of blue, 1 of gold, 3 of red, 20 of black, then commence the red again for one or two more stripes, and work the remainder of the Cap in one color, or continue it in stripes.

[Pg 34]

CAP, TURBAN-SHAPE, FOR
FOOTBALL, Etc.

Crocheted with Japanese Silk, using black and gold, or any of the colours required for clubs. You require a ball of gold Japanese silk, one of black, a steel crochet needle, No. 12.

With the black make a chain of 3, unite, work round and round, increasing to keep flat, until you have 32 stitches.

[Pg 35]

Take the gold silk, work 2 rounds of double crochet; turn.

3rd round—In the 1st stitch work * 2 double crochet, 1 in the 2nd, take up the 2nd double crochet in the 1st of these 3 rounds, work 4 treble in it, join the 1st and 4th of these long stitches together by a single; repeat from *. Work 2 stitches in every stitch after the treble stitches.

4th and 5th rounds—Black, double crochet, increasing to keep the work flat.

6th and 7th rounds—Gold silk, double crochet, increasing as necessary.

8th round—Like the 3rd round. Work in this manner until you have 7 rounds of raised work, which will make the cap the right shape; it should be 6½ to 7 inches in diameter. Then continue the same with no decreasings for the band round the head; you require 4 rows of patterns for this. Finish the work with 2 rounds of black silk. Line the cap, add a piece of leather round the edge, and put a button, covered with double crochet worked in gold silk, in the centre.

For a Smoking Cap this shape, add a silk tassel, to hang down over the side.

[Pg 36]

FOOTBALL CAP.

Crocheted in Japanese Silk or Eider Wool; Crochet hook, No. 12; 3 balls of silk, or 1½ oz. of wool.

Make a chain of 3, unite, in this work 6 double crochet.

2nd round—Work 12 double crochet.

3rd round—* Insert the needle in the next stitch, draw the thread through the thread round the needle, draw through the same loop again, the thread on the needle, draw through all the loops on the needle; repeat from * for each stitch. Work the round, and make 2 stitches in every 3rd stitch of the round underneath.

4th round—Work the same stitch as last round, and in each successive round, but work between the[Pg 37] stitches of the previous round. The work must be kept rather tight. Increase every 5th stitch.

5th round—No increasings.

Work in this manner, increasing gradually, until the work is nearly 7 inches across. This will allow the size to be just under 21 inches; about 22½ is a usual size in hats. The brim of the hat is increased very gradually indeed. Work 4 rounds with no increasings; in the next, divide the work into quarters; work an extra stitch in beginning each quarter; and do the same every 3rd round, which will give the brim the desired slope. When you have worked the top, work round and round, with no increasings, for 6 rounds; then take the contrasting colour and work 1½ inches of it; fasten off. Work another small round of the same stitch in this colour, cover a large button or curtain ring with it, and place at the top of the cap. Line the crown and sides with black silk, and sew a piece of leather, 3 inches deep, round the rim.