[Pg iii]

FRONTISPIECE

She stretcheth out her hand to the Poor.—

She looketh well to the ways of her Household.

Provˢ. 31 Ch.

Frontispiece to the Work Woman’s Guide.—Pubᵈ. by Stephen Marshall & Cᵒ.

The Author of the following pages has been encouraged to hope, that, in placing them, after much deliberation, in the hands of a printer, she is tendering an important and acceptable, however humble, service to persons of her own sex, who, in any condition of life, are engaged, by duty, or inclination, in cutting out wearing apparel in a family, or for their poorer neighbours. She trusts, in particular, that Clergymen’s Wives, Young Married Women, School-mistresses, and Ladies’ Maids may find, in the “Workwoman’s Guide,” a fast and serviceable friend.

The patterns, which comprise all the necessary parts of clothing in great variety, to suit both rich and poor, have been some years in collecting, and are given as the most generally approved shapes and sizes in present use. Economy and neatness of appearance have been equally consulted in choosing them, and all have been successfully tried. In selecting and arranging the Infant’s wardrobe, the comfort of the little wearers and ease of dressing, have been accurately studied. Interested by the feelings of a Mother in this division of her book, the Author has worked at it with especial zeal and assiduity, and submits it with particular confidence.

To assist the unpractised in understanding the written descriptions, almost every pattern is likewise drawn twice (see Plates), so as not only to represent its appearance when cut out, but also when made up. The difficulty of describing irregular and complicated shapes has been obviated by enclosing each in a square, marked with a scale of nails; by which means, even sleeves, collars, capes, and bonnets can be cut out with unfailing precision. In a charity school, for which the Author [Pg iv] was much interested, and for the use of which, both her collection of patterns was originally begun, and her drawings made, girls from ten to sixteen years of age were in the constant habit of cutting out correctly and easily, with no other guidance than the drawings. To sketch the pattern on a slate, and to cut it out first in paper, was all the facility afforded to, or needed by, beginners.

The Reader, as she advances, will see that this work is not confined to the simply cutting out and making up articles of dress, but likewise includes the important subjects of House Linen and Upholstery, and that the minor branches of knitting and straw platting have their places. Directions which, it is trusted, will be found useful, respecting various other points of domestic industry, are not omitted.

On the general plan of the work, and the motives which have induced the writer to venture it before the Public, she need not, perhaps, say more. A few words are near her heart, which she does not resist the temptation of adding.

A woman, who in the upper classes of society, has taken her place at the head of a family, has undertaken a high and responsible situation; but one, in which, by daily attention to certain humble details, she can essentially serve the welfare of some who are dear to her, and of many who are dependent on her.

The Author, as an Englishwoman, reflects with pride upon the number of her country women, whom the gifts of nature, and a brilliant or careful education enables to grace their place in society. She believes that very many of them are further qualified, as far as good will and natural intelligence can go, to discharge those humbler, but not less honourable, parts of their calling, to which she has alluded, but are deterred from applying to them (or much embarrassed if they do), from finding that, whilst they are proficients in many beautiful accomplishments, and not without cultivation in the more solid parts of information, they are yet mere novices in other unostentatious attainments, that have become indispensable to their domestic efficiency. The complete remedy for this inconvenience can only be found in making some further knowledge of domestic arts and economy a prominent part of the education of our daughters; home and school must both be called upon to contribute. Amongst the arts in question, the homely one of cutting out is entitled to rank high, for subserviency to [Pg v] comfort and elegance, as well as to economy, whenever this is an object, and in what fortune can it wisely be neglected? It is one which may seem peculiarly fitted to be taught in schools, by the conveniency of the means for teaching, by its cleanliness, and, if the Author may be allowed to say so, by its intellectual character, since to cut out well, it is necessary to think, and indeed the art, continually depending upon exact measurements, proportions and even correct diagrams, or figures, must be considered as a sort of unassuming household mathematics. Dress, it seems, has of late been admitted by philosophical critics to the dignity of a fine art: it both requires and cultivates taste, and the consideration of a pleasing effect and air in dress is first applied in the cutting out.

No one who has not been a frequent visitor in the homes of the poor, is aware of the extravagance and waste usual among women of a humble class, arising from their total ignorance in matters of cutting out and needle-work, nor how much instruction they want on those points, even to the making of a petticoat and a pinafore. The same ignorance and unskilfulness, and the same consequent waste of laborious and scanty earnings is common among our female household servants; who, by putting out their clothes to dress-makers, pay nearly half as much for the making up as for the materials. The direct saving of expense upon articles of dress, were they qualified to work for themselves, would, with all persons in these conditions of life, be an important annual item. But the indirect and further benefit would be of infinitely more account. The thrifty disposition, the regularity and neatness, the ideas of order and management, inspired by the conscious ability and successful exertion, in one leading branch of good housewifery, cannot be too highly prized or diligently cultivated; for the result is moral. The orderly house but reflects the orderly mind; the humble wife and mother, whose active indefatigable hand, silently executing her careful ingenious thought, improves the comforts, the visible respectability, and real condition of her husband and children, is mistress of a secret for blending her best and tenderest affections with the employment of every day: she contrives judiciously what she constantly and earnestly meditates, and finds no weariness in the labour to which strength continually flows from a deep fountain in her heart.

Personal investigation alone can satisfy those ladies who interest themselves in the welfare of the poor, how useful a kindness they would exercise in making efficient systematic instruction, in these arts, an ordinary and important part of school business. [Pg vi]

Could the Author hope that the little work, in which she has endeavoured to arrange the elements of cutting out progressively, would ever be admitted as a manual in the village school-room, a cherished wish of her heart would be gratified; in the mean time, she will be glad to think, that she may have saved some wives and mothers, entering upon their arduous vocations, a part of the inconveniences experienced by herself, although accounted a tolerable workwoman in the general acceptation of the term, when, on assuming the former of these characters, she was compelled to rely on her own resources.

The Author must here acknowledge her obligations to that valuable little work “Cottage Comforts;” also to the “Teacher’s Assistant in Needlework” and “Knitting,” and a few others, for some useful suggestions.

PLATE 1.

“But here the needle plies its busy task.”—Cowper.

See that the edges of the work are perfectly even before turning down, which should be done to a thread, unless the work is not cut straight-wise.

The needle and cotton should be adapted to the quality of the work, and when the latter is very fine, rovings taken from it, and used as thread, are very good for the purpose.

The cotton should be always worked the way it unwinds from the reel, for this reason, the needle had better be threaded before cutting off the cotton.

The thimble should be worn on the second finger of the right hand. The needle, while being threaded, is held in the left hand, and the cotton in the right.

The scissors, when used, should have the thumb placed in the upper ring, and the third finger in the lower: they should also be held with the sharper point uppermost.

When work is very strong, the thread used in making it up should be strengthened by waxing.

Thread is much more durable than cotton, and it should therefore be used in working all kinds of linen.

Cottons are better for calico, muslin, &c.

All kinds of threads and cottons, especially when coloured, should be kept (when not in use) wrapped up in brown paper, as the air is apt to decay them.

Sewing silks should be wrapped up in soft wash-leather.

Buttons, hooks and eyes, tapes, &c. are all better kept folded up, as they are apt to tarnish and decay.

Needles, scissors, and all kinds of steel, injure materially when exposed much to the air, especially at the sea coast.

HEMMING.

Turn down the raw edge twice very evenly, and flatten it with the thumb and finger, taking care to arrange the corners nicely.

In beginning to hem, point your needle from your chest towards the right, and after drawing the thread nearly through, stroke the end under the hem, so as to keep it fast without the assistance of a knot, which is always untidy. When your needleful is used, cut off the end, leaving just sufficient to stroke under the hem. In fastening off effectually, sew several stitches close together, and cut off the thread closely. Hem from right to left. [Pg 2]

SEWING AND FELLING.

The work for sewing is thus prepared: the two selvages are placed together, or if there are no selvages, the raw edge of one piece is turned down once, and the edge of the other piece is turned down double the width, and then half the width is turned back again for the fell. The two pieces are pinned or basted together, with the parts turned down face to face, and held firmly between the finger and thumb: the thread is fastened on by pressing the end carefully into the seam with the needle, and working over it. The stitches should be just deep enough to keep the parts strongly together; they should also lie in a slanting direction, at even distances from each other. When the seam is sewn, the finger should be placed under it, while the thumb nail flattens it down. Turn the work on the other side, and fell the seam just the same as in hemming.

MANTUA-MAKERS’ HEMMING.

This is often used instead of sewing, for bags and sleeves that have no linings, or skirts of petticoats, &c., and the work is prepared as follows. Lay the raw edge of one piece a little below that of the other, then turn the upper edge over the lower, twice, as in hemming, and fell it securely down.

STITCHING.

Having observed that your work is quite even, turn down a piece to stitch to, count twelve or fourteen threads from the edge, and draw a thread to stitch upon. In stitching, take two threads back, and pass the needle so as to come out from under two before. Join on a fresh piece of thread by passing the needle between the edges, and bringing it out where the last stitch left off.

GATHERING.

Observe that the part going to be gathered is cut evenly and straight. Divide the piece into half, and then into quarters, putting pins at the divisions as marks; do the same with the piece to which it is to be gathered, by which means the fulness will be equal.

Begin about twelve or fourteen threads from the top, take up three threads on your needle and miss four, more or less according to the fulness required: when a quarter is done, draw the gatherings pretty closely, and secure the thread by twisting it round a pin; then stroke the gathers nicely down, one at a time, with a large needle, so as to make them lie closely and evenly together. Afterwards, untwist the thread from the pin, and loosen the gathers till you have made the quarter gathered, correspond with the quarter to which it is to be sewn. Fasten the thread again firmly to a pin, and sew the gathers strongly on, one at a time, letting the stitches take a slanting direction, so as to slip between the gathers.

RUNNING.

The work for running must be prepared by putting the two edges exactly together, if they are both selvages; but if they are raw edges and afterwards to be felled, one raw edge must be turned down once, and the other laid upon it a few threads from the top. It should be run about six threads below the turned down part. Take three threads and leave three, and back-stitch occasionally, to keep the work firm.

DOUBLE GATHERING
OR PUFFING.

PLATE 1. FIG. 3, 4.

Double gathering or puffing is sometimes used in setting on frills, and [Pg 3] gives a very neat finished appearance; it is done in the following manner. Gather your frill at the top, in the usual way, and stroke it strongly down; then gather it again below the first gathering, according to the depth of the puffing you wish to make, about half an inch, more or less according to fancy, and sew on the first gathering to the dressing-gown, frock, or whatever you wish to trim, at a distance that corresponds with the width of the puffing: the second gathering is to be sewn to the edge of the dress, so that the part between the two gatherings forms a full hem. Some people make three gatherings, and proceed in the same way, forming the two full hems or puffings. It is usually put on straight, but sometimes in sewing on, the hem is drawn obliquely, or to one side, which makes a little variety, and when there are three gatherings, one hem is drawn to one side, and the other to the opposite one, but this requires much exactness to do it equally.

GERMAN HEMMING.

German hemming or felling is a neat substitute for sewing, where it is desirable that the seam should lie very flat; it is sometimes employed with great advantage for sleeves, and even in the long seams of shifts. It is quite as strong as the old method of a seam and fell, and looks better, as it is all done on the wrong side.

Turn down the raw edges of both your pieces of cloth once, (having them both turned down next you,) and lay one below the other, so that the smooth top of the lower one does not touch the edge of the upper one, but is just below it, then hem or fell the lower one to the cloth against which it is laid, still holding it before you, as you had prepared it, which is exactly like hemming upside down. When you have got to the end of your seam, open your sleeve, or whatever you are doing, and lay the upper fold over the lower edge, which you must then fell neatly down, and it is completed.

WHIPPING.

The edge for whipping should be cut particularly smooth, and divided into halves and quarters; the muslin is then rolled very tightly with the left thumb upon the finger, about ten threads from the edge. The cotton with which you whip should be very strong and even, and the needle should be stuck in on the outside, and brought out on the inside, the needle pointing towards your chest. Take the stitches very evenly, and so as to draw easily. Draw the whipping up to the width of the piece to which it is going to be sewn; pin it down, and sew it firmly, holding the whipping towards you, and letting the stitches lie athwart, so as to be hidden between the whips. If you stroke whipping with a large pin or needle, in the same way as in gathering, it adds much to its neat appearance in setting on, and makes it more easy to do.

BUTTON-HOLES.

PLATE 1. FIG. 5.

Cut the button-hole with a chisel (or the proper scissors made for that purpose) by a thread, the same size as the width across the button. In holding the work, let the button-hole lie length-wise along the forefinger. Begin at the side opposite the thumb farthest from the point of the finger. Put the needle in through the wrong side of the hole, and bring it out five threads down on the right. The stitch is made by putting the needle through the loop of the thread before it is drawn close. Observe that you keep your work evenly by the thread, and do not turn the corners too soon; the needle should be put in between every two threads, else the work will not be thick enough. It has a neat effect to stitch all round the button-hole. [Pg 4]

HERRING-BONING.

PLATE 1. FIG. 7, 8.

This is a stitch generally used for flannels and other woollens, also, for carpets, druggets, window blinds, &c. when a hem would be thick and clumsy from being turned down twice; whereas in herring-boning the edge is turned down only once, and lies flat and more compact.

Turn the work down once evenly, first cutting off any woollen fuzz at the raw edge which looks untidy, and then beginning to work from the left of your piece of work towards the right, take a stitch of two or three threads close under the raw turned-down edge, then put in your needle half way up the turned-down part, and four or five threads towards the right hand, and make another stitch of three threads; bring down the needle, and make another stitch as before under the raw edge, still working a few threads each time farther to the right hand, and so on forming a stitch something like the backbone of a fish, and therefore termed herring-bone. This same stitch done on muslin with fine cord or braid is very ornamental, and is often used at the tops of hems or bodies of infants’ robes.

DARNING.

The stocking or work should be held across the first and second fingers of the left hand. In beginning to darn, the needle should be held pointed from the chest. The work should be begun a few threads before the hole, or even the thin place, to give a firmer hold to the cotton. Take one thread and leave one, alternately till the row is complete; afterwards, point the needle towards the chest, and take up the intermediate threads which were left before. The cotton must not be drawn tight, as it is apt to shrink in washing, therefore a loop should be left at each end. Continue darning backwards and forwards till the hole and thin parts are covered, afterwards begin to darn crosswise, being particularly careful to avoid splitting the threads or pulling the loops tight.

Some people make a point of running the feet of new stockings all over, which is very advisable for men and boys who wear boots, as it preserves them much longer.

There are a variety of stitches in darning, some of which have a very neat appearance, among others the following:-

Table linen, when darned, looks neater if the work is done in some pattern; thus, a diamond or circle looks more tidy than an irregular patch of darning.

ON MENDING A CRACK.

In taking up a crack in a stocking, fasten the thread firmly on, and then take the two half loops which are next each other on one side of the crack, upon the needle, and having drawn the thread through them, do the same on the other side, making the half loop, which was last taken up on either side, the first of the next stitch.

ON TAKING UP A LADDER.

A ladder is caused by the fall or dropping of a stitch, which it is necessary to pick up as soon as possible, by putting the needle into the loop that has fallen, and drawing the bar immediately above through [Pg 5] the loop, thus the bar becomes a loop in its turn, and the next bar above is in like manner draw through it, till all are taken up, when the last loop is well secured and darned over.

ON MAKING BUTTONS.

PLATE 1. FIG. 6.

Cover your piece of wire with a square piece of calico, which you must double over the corners, and sew firmly in the middle; afterwards stitch the button round close to the wire, or else work over the wire the button-hole stitch, and in the centre, work a little regular star to set it off.

ON MAKING TUCKS.

Tucks should be very even; for this purpose, have a bit of card on which is notched the depth of each tuck, and also the space between them. Tucks should be run firmly in small regular stitches, constantly taking a back-stitch as you go on.

MARKING.

In marking, two threads are generally taken each way. There are three ways in which the needle is passed before the stitch is perfect. One is aslant from you towards the right hand; the second is straight downwards towards you; the third is across or aslant from you towards the left hand, taking care to bring out the needle at that corner of the stitch nearest the one you are going to make. The generality of markers make the first stitch aslant twice over, to make it clearer before proceeding onwards; thus, in Plate 1, Fig. 2, the thread, being brought out at A, passes across to B, and out again at A; again, across to B, and out at C; then, aslant to D, and out again at B, ready to proceed to the next stitch. Where there are two or three letters to be marked, the thread should be neatly fastened off at the end of each letter and not carried on from one to the other. Two or four threads are left between the letters, according to the quality of the article to be marked. In linen, eight threads are generally left. In gentlemen’s families, house linen is either marked with the gentleman’s initials, or else with those of the lady’s christian name added to the gentleman’s full initials, his christian name coming first: thus, supposing Edward Montagu’s wife is named Louisa, the initials would be E. L. M., afterwards the name of the cloth and the number are marked thus:

signifying, Edward Louisa Montagu, Glass Cloth, Number 8, 1837. There are many pretty marking patterns for samplers, flat canvass pincushions, or needle-books. In noblemen’s families, the marks are surmounted by coronets. There are also two other kinds of marking; the one is the same stitch as that above described, but differing in the form of the letters, which are in writing or Italian characters; this may best be done by copying written letters accurately: the other kind of marking is, by making the letters perfectly straight, as in printing, and instead of the marking stitch, working them in small oylet holes.

In Plate 1, Fig. 1, the sampler drawn gives an accurate idea of the canvass, and the shape of all the letters in the different alphabets. The first alphabet is that in most general use; the second contains the small letters; the third is a correct representation of the Italian characters, which are much used for marking pocket handkerchiefs and other fine articles of dress; the fourth and last is quite a fancy stitch, and rarely employed. The oylet-holes are formed by working in [Pg 6] small stitches round each square, about four stitches in the four corners, and four intermediate stitches between, are necessary to form each oylet hole.

PIPING

Is a neat mode of finishing capes, sleeves at the wrist, waistbands, tops of bodies, &c., and is sewn on in the following way.

Cut crosswise strips of silk, (or whatever other material you are piping with,) sufficiently wide to admit well the cord, run these strips neatly together, to make them of a proper length for the piping you want. Some people run the silk on the cord first, before sewing it to the piece of work; others, however, merely lay the cord neatly inside the silk, which is then placed on the edge of the work to which it is piped, so that the two raw edges of the strip of silk enclosing the cord should lie on the raw edge of the work; the three thicknesses are then all firmly run together, the stitches being made just below the cord. When it is sewn on, the raw edges are pressed inwards, so as to make the cord set at the edge. The lining is then neatly put in, which covers these edges and makes all look tidy.

PLAITING.

Care should be taken that the plaits lie evenly one against another, and that they are of the same size, especially in frills, sleeves, &c. In double plaiting, the plaits lie both ways, and look very handsome and full in frills: it requires great care to do them evenly, without which they will not look well.

ON LINING SLEEVES, BAGS, &c.

After cutting out the lining exactly the same size as the sleeve, fold it very carefully, so as to make the raw edges lie exactly one on the other; do the same with the sleeve, taking care to fold the wrong side outwards. Place the lining on the sleeve and pin them evenly together; after which, run all the four thicknesses strongly down the seam. Put your hand in the sleeve, and turn it inside out, drawing the lining inside; the seam is then quite neat, both inside and outside, as the stitches lie between the lining and the outer silk. The same should be done with bags, and any other thing that will admit of it.

ON BRAIDING.

This work can scarcely come under the head of plain work, still, as children’s dresses are so much ornamented with it, a few observations may be useful. The very fine flat braid should be used, as it looks so much neater than that which is thick; it is sold in knots. Silk braids look well on silk, merino, or muslin; but cotton is the best for jean, prints, or stuffs. The pattern should be drawn on silver paper, which is tacked on the piece of work, and the braid worked on it with the same coloured sewing silk, as thread washes white. To sew on silk braid, you should use the silk drawn out of the braid, as it is finer and more even, and will match the colour better than any other you can procure: cut off, therefore, a bit the length of a needleful, to keep for the purpose of unroving. If you want to take the pattern of a piece of work upon paper, place some letter paper on the work, and while holding it firmly, rub the paper well with half a nutmeg, which will mark the pattern correctly, and sufficiently distinct on the paper to admit of its being inked afterwards. Two shades of braid sewn close together have a pretty effect.

BIASSING.

PLATE 1. FIG. 9.

In biassing, the first part of the stitch resembles gathering, and after stroking in down with a large needle or pin, you lay, upon the right side of the gathers, a thread very much thicker than that you are [Pg 7] using in your needle; you then sew over this thread, taking hold, at the same time, of the gathering thread, and pointing your needle to your chest; you must be very careful to put your needle between every gather: the thick thread, thus worked upon the gathering, has a very neat effect, and adds much to its strength; two or three rows of it, at short distances from each other, look very well: it is particularly suitable for the shoulders and sleeves of dresses, and for children’s saccarines, pelisses, &c. It is a good plan to bias with sewing and netting silk, in preference to thread, as it is much stronger.

GAGING.

This is very suitable for the fronts of children’s dresses, and the tops of the cuffs of sleeves; it is done as follows. Take up the stitches at regular intervals of half an inch, for the first row. For the second, continue doing the same; letting the needle, however, take up the intermediate parts. The third row resembles the first, and so on. For the purpose of securing the gathers firmly, work them as follows, with very strong netting silk. Take on your needle the two first gathers, and the thread on which they run, pulling your thread firmly through. For the next stitch, again take two gathers and the thread upon your needle, letting the first of them be the last gather that was taken up at the former stitch, so that the work proceeds but by one gather at a time. Observe to draw the netting silk as tightly as possible, so as to make the stitches lie very closely together, in a slanting position.

HONEY-COMBING.

PLATE 1. FIG. 10, 11.

This sort of work is much used for the inside of the tops of work-boxes, and sometimes for the tops and heads of beds; it is usually done with silk, satin, or velvet, for the former; and highly-glazed chintz or calico, for the latter. Crease your material in even folds, taking care to have them very regular, and of a proper depth to suit the purpose for which it is intended; with a strong thread, tack the folds together with long stitches, so as to make them lie compactly one against another; then, with sewing silk of the proper colour, stitch firmly together, at moderate equal distances, the first and second folds: afterwards, stitch the second and third folds, at equal distances, taking your stitches in the intermediate intervals (see Plate 1, Fig. 10 and 11). The third and fourth folds are only repetitions of the first and second, and by continuing your work in this way, the stitches of the alternate rows will accord with each other. When the piece is completed, and the tacking-thread drawn out, pull your work open, and it will form puffings, in the shape of diamonds, on the right side.

BINDING.

Flannel is generally bound with sarsenet ribbon, or a kind of thin tape called flannel binding. This is generally put on so as merely to shew a little way over the edge on the right side, and should be neatly and firmly hemmed down. On the other side, run the binding down with small neat stitches, so as to look very tidy on the right side. Some people, in binding flannel, turn half on the other side of the edge, but this is not nearly so neat in appearance.

QUILTING.

PLATE 1. FIG. 12, 13.

Is generally employed for coverlets, silk shoes, cushions, linings of work-baskets and boxes; also, for babies’ bonnets, hoods, &c. &c.; and is well adapted to those purposes for which warmth and softness are essential.

It is done in the following manner. Lay a piece of flannel, demet, or other soft substance, between the satin (or other material forming the [Pg 8] outside) and the lining of whatever you are going to make. Run it firmly together, taking care that the stitches go through, not only the satin, but the flannel and lining. The running is done in diamonds, squares, octagons, or any other pattern with very small stitches, in silk the same colour as the material. Coverlets are often quilted with patterns of birds, fishes, stars, &c. &c.

Another kind of quilting, which looks very neat, is done as follows. Baste the piece of work in diamonds, with very long stitches of thread, and then, with your needle, work a little star at each of the intersections or points of the diamonds, putting in your needle between the material and the lining, when the thread is ready to be carried from one star to another, to conceal the stitches.

MAKING ROULEAUS.

These are used for trimming dresses, capes, &c., and are made of satin, silk, or velvet, in the following manner. Cut pieces of the material crosswise, about one or more nails, and join a sufficient number of them to form the length required; after which double the strip in two, on the wrong side, and run along near the edge. When you have got to the end, see that your needle is fastened firmly, with strong thread to it, and turn your needle inside the roll, running it through as you would a bodkin, and, on pulling it gently out, it will pull the rouleau inside out, and make it look neat; after which, draw sufficient wool through the rouleau to fill it.

CORONATION BRAID.

This kind of braid is bought in knots, and resembles Fig. 10, Plate 1. In putting it on frocks, it may be sewn in various patterns of leaves, &c.: it looks pretty, and both wears and washes well. (See Plate 5, Fig. 28, 29.)

CORD SEWN ON.

This is often put on infants’ frock bodies, it looks neat and washes remarkably well. It is sewn on in waves, diamonds, vandykes, or any other pattern. The thread for sewing it on should be fine, and the stitches very small.

CHAIN STITCH.

PLATE 5. FIG. 21.

It is a kind of ornamental work, which, as it is often used in frock bodies for children, will be here explained; together with some other fancy stitches, although they do not strictly come under the head of plain work.

Chain stitch is done as follows. Thread your needle with fine round union cord, braid, or bobbin; tie a knot at the end of it, and draw the cord through to the right side of your work. Let your cord hang loosely in front, while you stick in your needle, as in the Plate, and bring it out below, inclining it a little to the left, passing your needle over your thread as you draw it out, so as to form a loop. Draw out the needle, taking care not to pull the stitch tightly, and repeat the same, putting the needle in a little higher, and to the right hand of the place where it was last drawn out: thus each new loop begins within the lower part of the preceding one, and you produce the effect of a chain.

FANCY CHAIN STITCH.

PLATE 5. FIG. 22.

This is a very pretty stitch for ornamenting babies’ dresses, and especially their hats, and should be worked in netting silk, silk cord, or braid. The stitch resembles that of the common chain stitch above [Pg 9] mentioned, excepting that very little is taken up on the needle at a time, and the stitches made far apart. The stitch may be varied according to whether the needle slants little or much. If it is made to lie quite horizontally before the work, it becomes button-hole stitch at once.

CHAIN STITCH ON GATHERS.

This has a remarkably neat effect, and if done with coloured worsted upon Holland dresses, when biassed or gaged, it will wash and wear well. Take up two gathers at a time for each stitch, always taking one old, and one new gather on the needle at a time.

FANCY BOBBIN EDGING.

PLATE 5. FIG. 18.

This is pretty for the edges of frocks and robings, and is a very simple stitch, which wears well. After hemming the edge, tie a knot at the end of your bobbin, and draw it through to the right side of the work, just below the hem. Carry the bobbin over the hem, by sticking in your needle at the wrong side, bringing it through; after which, on drawing the loop to the proper size, pass your bobbin through it, and begin the next stitch, and so on, forming a succession of loops.

FANCY HERRING-BONING.

PLATE 5. FIG. 23.

This stitch resembles that of the common herring-bone, except that it is worked perpendicularly instead of from left to right, and the thread is brought round behind the needle, as represented in Plate 5, which gives a greater finish to the stitch.

DOUBLE HERRING-BONING.

PLATE 5. FIG. 27.

This pattern is too intricate to describe, farther than by saying it is a kind of double herring-bone on each side. The Plate gives a tolerably accurate idea of the stitch. As great care is requisite to keep the pattern even, it is better to run a tacking-thread, as a guide, down the middle of it.

THE ANGULAR STITCH.

PLATE 5. FIG. 24.

This is a neat ornament for capes, cuffs, and the skirts of children’s pelisses, and resembles the button-hole stitch, but is carried angularly from right to left, to form the pattern. Care should be taken to make the pattern of equal width and very even and straight, as much of its merit depends upon its regularity.

THE SERPENTINE STITCH.

PLATE 5. FIG. 25.

This is a peculiarly pretty work, and much employed for children’s dresses. It is worked with the hand, and sewn on to the material when made. Take the cord, knot it so as to form a loop at one end, and pass the other end through the loop towards the front, to form another loop to the right hand; continue passing the bobbin first through the loop on one side, and then through the loop on the other, directing the cord so as to pass from the outer side of the work invariably towards the inner, or that part next the work. The Plate will give a clearer representation of this than can be easily done by words. [Pg 10]

THE HORSE-SHOE STITCH.

PLATE 5. FIG. 20.

This stitch is worked from left to right, as seen in the Plate, and is pretty when worked near to the edge of robings, hems, &c. The Plate gives so clear a representation of the way to hold the needle and thread, that no explanation is necessary. It is done with thick loosely twisted cotton or bobbin.

FANCY BUTTON-HOLE STITCH.

PLATE 5. FIG. 19.

This is very pretty for the fronts of bodies, also for the bands and shoulder-bits, and above the broad hems or tucks of frocks. It resembles a very wide button-hole stitch. It washes and wears well.

CORAL PATTERN.

PLATE 5. FIG. 26.

This pattern is particularly suitable for the tops of broad hems, or the waistbands of children’s frocks. It requires great accuracy in the working; and if attempted by an inexperienced person, it would be desirable to run lines, in long stitches, to determine the middle and outer sides of the pattern. It can be best understood by reference to the Plate, merely remarking that the stitch is begun on the left hand, and continued alternately from left to right, always pointing the needle towards the centre.

GENERAL RULES FOR COMPLETING WORK.

In making up dresses, all openings of pocket holes, of sleeves near the wrist, &c. &c., should be very firmly fastened off, as they are apt to tear. There are two or three modes of making them strong: one is by working round the pail in button-hole stitch, and also by making a bar from one side to the other, by passing the needle backwards and forwards several times, working the button-hole stitch upon the bar; a second is by sewing a piece of strong tape upon the hem, about an inch on each side from the bottom; and a third way, which can only be done when the pocket-hole is in a seam, is by making one side lap over the other considerably, by which means the slit is not only strengthened, but it does not gape open, which always has an untidy appearance. To prevent dresses from opening at the slit below the band, it is a good plan to extend the gathers, on one side, an inch beyond the band, by joining a piece of strong tape to the end of it, and sewing the gathers neatly upon it. This piece of tape must be contrived so as to hook or button on to the band on the other side, so as to lap over the slit, and thus prevent its opening.

In fastening on tapes, sew firmly in close small stitches round the three outer sides, and back-stitch across the fourth.

In sewing on buttons, it is best to put the needle in and out, so as to form a cross-stitch in the centre over and over again, till firmly fastened.

In sewing on the long tapes to the bands of petticoats, gowns, &c., it is an excellent plan to make a large button-hole near one end, through which the tape of the other end is passed, before brought to tie in front. [Pg 11]

The gussets of sleeves, &c., are put in as follows. Take the piece intended for the gusset and prove, by folding it crosswise, that it is a perfect square; after which, it is the best and most durable plan to hem it all round: next hem the two ends of the sleeve, and fix on the gusset by sewing one end of the sleeve firmly to one side of the gusset, and the other end of the sleeve to the next side of the gusset, immediately round the corner. The easiest mode of ascertaining which sides of the gusset are joined to the sleeve, is by folding the gusset corner-wise, and the two sides that lie one above the other are sewn to the two ends of the sleeve, and the other two sides, lying also one above the other, form that part of the sleeve fastened to the body of the dress. Sometimes the gusset is cut out much smaller than the ends of the sleeve, especially for baby clothes, in which case the sides of the gusset forming the part fastened to the skirt, ought to be still placed so as to continue in a line with those sides of the sleeve sewn on to the skirt. That part of the ends of the sleeve which is longer than the gusset should be sewn together.

Some sleeves are cut with the gussets in one length, so that it is only necessary to turn up the one corner of the piece, like a half handkerchief, so as to make it lie upon the side of the strip which is folded just in half, and when the second end is sewn to that part which meets it, the sleeve is formed, and only requires hemming at the bottom to complete it, before putting it in.

In setting a long sleeve, such as a shirt or night-gown sleeve, into a wristband, let the slit be sufficiently long to admit of the wristband being laid open and easily ironed. The gathers at the top of the sleeve should be set into a space exactly the same as the wristband, to make it lie flat also. These little attentions are a great assistance to the washerwoman.

It is very bad economy to purchase, for articles of clothing, cheap bargains. They generally consist of damaged goods, or are otherwise inferior in their quality, as it stands to reason that no mercer would feel inclined to sell his stock at a lower rate than its worth.

The only parts of dress which it may be sometimes advisable to purchase at a cheap rate, are gloves, ribbons, and such articles as are easily soiled long before being worn out, and cannot well be cleaned: in large towns and dirty neighbourhoods they are soon discoloured, and therefore their durability is of little consequence.

Linens, calicoes, woollens, prints, &c., should be carefully chosen from the best, as they are in constant wash and wear, and would soon become worn and threadbare if not good and strong. Two sets of good linen will wear out three or four sets of inferior, which, when the expense of making up is considered, becomes, in its turn, far more expensive, besides the extra trouble and time, both of which are well worth saving.

Observe that the cloth is the proper width for the articles wanted, so as to cut out to the best advantage. Much waste may arise from its being one nail too wide or too narrow. Take notice that the selvages, and also the threads, are even and good both ways. [Pg 12]

CALICO.

Observe that it is free from dress, which is a preparation of lime employed by the manufacturers to make it of a better colour, as, if (as is often the case) the dressing is too high in proportion to the strength of the threads, it becomes rotten, tears, and wears badly, and after washing, is poor and thin, like canvass; choose your calico, therefore, undressed, for then you can more exactly judge of its quality and strength. It should be soft, without specks, and the threads and selvages even. It is often cheaper to buy the whole piece, if much is wanted, as a small allowance is made per yard. If a small quantity is wanted for a baby’s caps, shirts, &c., it is often good economy to purchase remnants, fencings, or felts, by which means you sometimes get the best qualities for very low prices. Calico runs of various widths and qualities: the unbleached, or grey, is the best for shifts, boys’ shirts, &c., for the lower orders, being warmer and stronger than the white.

The following are the useful widths, with the general prices at the present time, though, of course, they are constantly varying.

Unbleached calico, from 13 nails wide to 2 yards 4 nails, price from 4d. to 1s. 6d.

Fine white calico for caps, aprons, &c., from 12 nails upwards to 1½ yard, price from 4d. upwards.

Stout calico, from 14 nails upwards to 3 yards wide, price from 8d. to 3s.

LINEN.

The Suffolk hemp is considered the best. The threads should be particularly even. The useful widths are from 13¼ nails to 16, for shirting. The common linen is sometimes as low as 8d. or 9½d. per yard, and the best at 2s. 9d. or 3s. Linen should be scalded before it is cut out and made up, as it is too stiff to allow of its being sewn with ease.

LAWN.

Lawn is merely a finer quality of linen, and is sometimes used for the fronts of gentlemen’s shirts, also for babies’ night-caps, shirts, frilling, &c. Its width varies from 13 nails upwards, and the price from about 4s. to 8s.

CAMBRIC.

Cambric is a finer sort of lawn. Its width is about three-quarters of a yard, and the price from 4s. to 12s.

MUSLIN CHECKS.

The small check which is used for caps generally wears the best. Observe that the thin places between the checks are good, and the threads even. They are generally 1¼ yard wide, and from 9d. to 20d. or 2s. per yard.

BLUE CHECKS.

This is very serviceable for aprons, and should be entirely linen, if wanted to wear well. It runs from 1 yard wide to 1¼ yard, and is from 3d. to 16d. per yard.

The cotton check answers very well for children’s pinbefores, though not nearly so durable as the other. It is of various widths, and from 6d. to 1s. per yard. [Pg 13]

PRINTS, CHINTZES, AND GINGHAMS.

These often wash very badly: if, therefore, you are buying a doubtful colour, it would be advisable to beg a piece as a pattern, and wash half of it, which, when compared with the other half, will shew at once whether the colours are fixed or not. They are better when the pattern is the same on both sides.

Dark and light blue, lilac, buff, bright brown, red, and pink are good wearing colours.

Green, chocolate, and violet are very fading colours. They vary in price from 3d. to 10d., or even 1s. The usual width for gowns is 11 nails. The width sold for aprons is 14 nails.

FLANNELS.

The Welsh is far superior to the Lancashire, and both washes and wears better; the latter is, however, cheaper. It is generally of a yellowish colour, while the Welsh is more of a blue grey.

Purchasing large quantities at the fairs at Welsh-Pool, Newtown, and other Welsh markets, is good economy, as several yards are often given in to the hundred. The common flannels for petticoats are 9d. to 14d. per yard, and the finer upwards, to 2s. or 3s. 8d.: they vary in width from 9 nails to 16. New flannel should be plunged in scalding water, and hung out to dry without wringing.

CLOTH.

Cloth should be smooth, with a good nap.

STUFFS.

Observe that they are evenly dyed, as they are often dashed. Hold them up to the light, that you may better judge of their quality. The black dye is apt to decay the stuff. Brown and dark green are particularly good wearing colours. Width from ½ and ¾ yard, upwards. Price from 8d. to 2s.

CRAPE.

Crape is often dashed and spotted, as it is a difficult article to take dye evenly. Have it spread over white before buying it, when you can more easily detect blemishes. The width is 1 yard, and the price 2s. to 4s. 6d.

SATIN.

It should be soft and thick, unless for trimming caps, when a poorer kind may be used. When wanted for trimmings, satin should be cut crosswise.—(See the end of Chapter III.) It is from ½ yard to 10 nails wide, and from 2s. 6d. to 7s. 6d.

SILKS.

Should not be too stiff, thin, or papery, as they are apt to tear or slit in the plaits and folds. See that they are soft, without specks or stains; and, as silk dresses turn well, and even dye afterwards, it would be advisable to have no wrong side—that is, the pattern equally good on both sides. They are generally ½ yard wide, though black silk of 1 yard in width can be bought for aprons.

In cheap silks, a kind of camel’s hair is frequently woven to make them appear richer and thicker to the touch, but this is highly injurious to the silk, as it causes it to wear very ill, and cut in all the folds and creases. The way to detect the existence of camel hair in silks, is [Pg 14] to take a little bit in the hand and pull it gently cross-way, and if there be any camel hair interwoven with the silk it will spring back as if elastic, making a soft kind of whistling sound.

Articles of clothing are measured by cloth measure.

All linens, calicoes, &c., to be washed before cut out.

All linens, including lawn, cambric, and Holland, should be cut by the thread.

All calicoes, muslins, and flannels will tear, though the former, unless very stout, pull a good deal awry.

All small articles, as gussets, should be cut, in preference to being torn.

Cutting out whole sets of things together often prevents much waste; hence it is better to cut out six or twelve shirts at once, than only one at a time.

Skirts, sleeves, wristbands, shoulder-straps, collars, waistbands, and every thing liable to be stretched in wearing, to be cut selvage-wise.

Frills, flounces, and pieces fulled between bands, are usually cut the width way.

Frills for caps are generally twice as long as the article they are to be frilled upon; three times is very full, and is sometimes used for neck frills.

Linings of hats, bonnets, fronts, and backs of gowns, tippets, most women’s collars, and every thing intended to set well and closely, of an irregular shape or surface, to be cut crosswise.

Pipings and linings to broad hems always to be cut crosswise.

In cutting crosswise, first fold the end of the piece like a half-handkerchief, so as to lay the raw edge evenly against the selvage side, and cut off the half square, from which cut the strips for piping, &c.

To cut off a yard crosswise, measure a yard along each of the selvage sides, (after the half square has been cut off) crease it slantingly across, and cut it.

Satins, velvets, and some silks, may be purchased cut the cross way, as well as the straight.

The next thing which will come under our observation is the work-box, or basket, and of this it may be useful to say a few words, as much of the comfort of a good workwoman depends on the choice and arrangement of her tools (if they may be so termed) and materials.

A work-box, or basket, should be large enough to hold a moderate supply of work and all its requisites, without being of such a size as to be inconvenient to carry about, or lift with ease. There should be in it divisions or partitions, as they assist in keeping it in order; but some persons are apt to run into the extreme of over-partitioning their boxes, which defeats its own purpose and becomes troublesome: this should be carefully avoided.

A work-box should contain six or eight of the useful sized white reel sewing cottons, black cotton, and silks, white, black, and coloured, both round and for darning; a few useful tapes, bobbin, galloon, buttons of all kinds, including thread, pearl, metal, and black; also, hooks and eyes. An ample needle-book, containing a page of kerseymere for each sized needle, not omitting the darning, glove, stay, and worsted or carpet needles.

There are various kinds of scissors; the most useful are,

• A large pair, for cutting out linen;
• A medium size, for common use;
• A small pair with rounded points;
• A smaller pair with sharper points,
• for cutting out muslin work, &c.;
• Lace scissors with a flat knob at one of the points;
• Button-hole scissors.

A pincushion, an emery cushion, a waxen reel for strengthening thread, a stiletto, bodkins, a thimble, a small knife, and a yard measure, made like a carpenter’s foot rule, only with nails instead of inches marked upon it: for a further description of it, see explanation to Plate 24.

These complete the list of things necessary for a good workwoman; other things, as shield, tweezers, which are often added, may be considered as superfluities.

It is a good plan to fit up a square basket for the use of each working servant in the house, as for instance, the lady’s-maid, the nurse, the housemaid, the laundry-maid. These baskets should vary sufficiently in form and size to be easily distinguished one from the other; the kind usually sold for babies’ baskets is the most convenient, being large enough to hold plenty of work, and yet shallow, so as easily to search for things at the bottom.

To these baskets should belong, a small tin box for buttons, hooks and eyes, bodkins, &c.; a large pair of scissors and sheath tied to each other, and fastened by a long string to the handle of the basket. A heavy pincushion, formed of a brick or piece of iron or lead, placed in a bag full of bran, padded with flannel, and covered over with print or calico. A large needle-book. A bag to contain tapes, silks, darning cottons, &c. It is advisable to mark the scissors sheath, needle-book, pincushion, bag, and even basket, with the initial of the maid by whom it is used, as H. B. for housemaid’s basket. [Pg 16]

A rag bag is a desirable thing to have hung up in some conspicuous part of the house, into which all odd bits, and even shreds, of calico, print, linen, muslin, &c. should be put; as they are useful to come in when a gusset or chin-stay, or other small article is wanting. Those bits too small for this purpose may still be used by school children, for practising stitches of needle-work upon; or, at all events, may be disposed of to the rag merchants, and thus prove of some value at last. Another family bag, for the purpose of containing stray tapes, or shoe strings, hooks, eyes, odd buttons, pieces of silk, or bits of ribbon, may be kept with advantage; especially where there is a large family of children, whose demands for these small articles are daily and constant.

The following articles are necessary to be prepared for an infant’s first dress, and are equally applicable (with some exceptions) to the poor as well as the rich, though the quality of the materials, of course, must differ. The average number of each article usually provided by ladies for an infant’s wardrobe, may here be introduced with propriety, though they must vary according to circumstances. Persons to whom economy is a great object may find a much smaller stock answer as well, if they are able to send the linen often to the wash.

[Pg 17] Also, the following et ceteras:—

One receiver; 1 basket-cover; 1 flannel, and 1 India rubber apron; 6 nursery soft towels; 1 cradle, bassinette, or crib-cover, and bedding; 1 pincushion.

LENDING LINEN FOR THE POOR.

Linen is often lent by ladies to the poor, at their confinements, in bags, boxes, or baskets, containing the following articles:—

Also, may be added, a baby’s crockery bottle, bed-pan, dust-bag, pair of blankets, bottle of castor oil, sal volatile, with proper directions pasted on, some large pins, strong thread, and a few books.

The most convenient kind of basket for containing these articles of clothing, is a light wicker-work one, about 20 inches long, 12 inches wide, and 20 inches high. This size holds two folded sheets, side by side, at the bottom, and all the rest above. It should have two handles, sufficiently high to allow of the lid opening easily. (See Plate 5, Fig. 14.)

A FEW GENERAL OBSERVATIONS.

Baby-linen should be cut out with great exactness and precision, and made up with the most scrupulous neatness. In all the patterns, an eye should be had to their being contrived so as to put on with the greatest comfort and ease to the infant, and made to button or tie readily. No hard seams, buttons, or runners should come in contact with their tender skin, therefore all strings should be made to tie on the outside.

To each head a scale is affixed, by which the same patterns may be cut out of various sizes, in proper proportions, to suit children of different ages.

There are three lengths for the skirts of baby-linen; the first and longest, for the rich, is generally 18 nails, and for the poor, 16; the second size, commonly called three-quarters, is about 15 nails for the rich, and 13 for the poor; the third size, or short coats, is about half a yard.

To prevent mistakes, observe, that on all occasions, the number of nails marked on the Plate, refers to the size of the article when cut out, and not when made up.

CAPS

Are generally made of soft calico, or checked muslin, with muslin frills, for the poor, and of fine lawn or cambric, with cambric frills or lace borders for the higher classes. Babies’ caps, of whatever size they may be, are generally cut so as to form a square when they are doubled, after allowing for runners, &c. [Pg 18]

FOUNDLING CAP.

PLATE 2. FIG. 1, 2, 3, 4.

BABY’S FIRST SIZE.

Choose your calico soft and fine, of 12 or 16 nails wide, so as to enable you to cut exactly three or four caps in the width, the depth of the cap, from front to back, being 4 nails; the whole length, from ear to ear, is 6 nails, which you must measure down the selvage-way of the cloth (see Fig. 2). One yard and 2 nails will cut into twelve caps, if the calico is 16 nails wide.

When you have divided your calico into pieces for caps, cut them out as follows:—

Take one piece, and fold the edge backwards one nail down the long side, and then, by doubling the cap in half the other way, it should form a square (Fig. 1): the nail thus doubled back, (see Fig. 3, A upon B), is to be hemmed down neatly, and a runner formed for a bobbin (see Fig. 4, T). The corners, by the ears, are rounded off (see Fig. 4, S), and another runner formed all round the edge. (Observe, in all the Plates the letter D denotes the folded, or doubled part of the material.) The back is shaped by first measuring one nail from the bottom (see Fig. 3, D D), and cutting into the cap one nail (Fig. 3, D E), taking care to cut it very evenly by a thread: afterwards slope off the crown, above the slit, in a semi-circular form (Fig. 3, E).

The cap is made up by neatly felling and back-stitching the seam from D to D, Fig. 3, and gathering the semi-circular part into the straight piece, E D, and felling it over. A strip of calico is often neatly sewn on the inside, over the gathers, to make them set softer to the child’s head, and is called a back-stay. These strips, together with the chin-stays, should be cut selvage-wise of the cloth.

A chin-stay is three nails long, and half a nail wide, therefore cut off three nails from down the selvage, and then divide from this piece as many chin-stays as are wanted; afterwards cut the back-stays, which are only two and a half nails long, and a quarter of a nail wide. The chin-stay should be neatly sewn up the whole length, with a small button-hole at one end; they are generally sewn on at the left corner of the cap, and the button on the right.

Some persons prefer having two buttons sewn on the cap, one at each ear, and the stay made with two button-holes, so as easily to be changed and washed, without changing the cap also, as babies are apt to wet them, which makes them hard and rough to the chin. The frills should be cut width-wise of the muslin; the strips should be one inch wide. The length is generally determined by the width of the muslin, and is from a breadth and a half to two breadths, so as to prevent waste as much as possible. For a cap this size, about a yard and ten nails length of frilling is sufficient.

PLATE 2.

[Pg 19]

ANOTHER CHILD’S CAP.

PLATE 2. FIG. 5, 6.

INFANT’S FIRST SIZE.

This sort will answer for either day or night-cap, and, when nicely made, looks neat and pretty. The calico should, if possible, be 15 nails wide, to allow of exactly four caps being cut in the width, to prevent waste, as these caps are to be 3¾ nails wide: should any waste arise, it will, however, come in for chin-stays, &c. The cap is 6 nails long. Double the piece in half, and it will form a square, by allowing the ¾ of a nail for the runners in front. Measure one nail behind from the bottom, S S, and slit into the cap one nail, S P. Slope off the crown in a semi-circular form, P Q.

In making up the cap, make three or four runners at regular intervals, Z Z, and a neat hem all round, to admit of bobbins. The semi-circular part, P Q, is gathered into the straight part, P S, and neatly felled over, the seam, S S, being previously sewn up. Hem the back-stay inside the gathers, and put on the chin-stay and frill.

CHILD’S FLANNEL CAP.

PLATE 2. FIG. 7, 8.

INFANT’S FIRST SIZE.

These caps are of use after washing an infant’s head, to prevent its taking cold, till its hair is sufficiently dry to put on its usual cap. Choose very soft fine Welsh flannel, of 15 nails wide, so as to cut five [Pg 20] caps in the width, of 3 nails each. Let them be 7 nails long, so as to come well over the ears, and admit of shrinking in washing. Fold the pieces in half, measure at the back 1¼ nails from the bottom, S T, and slit into the cap, T A. Slope off the crown from C to D. In making them up, they should be neatly hemmed, and the hem run at the edge with very fine thread, to make it lie flat, or else herring-boned with very small stitches. Ladies generally have these caps bound with white sarsenet ribbon (see explanation of binding, page 7). The back ought to be herring-boned with very small regular stitches, and the circular part, C D, plaited and herring-boned into the straight part, A T, and a piece of fine calico or sarsenet ribbon hemmed inside, over the plaits. Two runners, or string cases (Fig. 8, F G), are then made by hemming neatly two bits of soft tape or sarsenet inside, at proper distances. The one marked G not to be carried lower down on each side than H, which is nearly opposite the slit at the back. All the tapes are tied outside, and the tape-holes neatly worked round in button-hole stitch. Two tapes for strings.

INFANT’S DAY-CAP.

PLATE 2. FIG. 9, 10, 11.

No scale necessary, as this shape is generally worn only by infants.

INFANT’S FIRST SIZE.

This shape is the most suitable for a day-cap for the higher classes, and is generally made of worked cambric or spotted lace. The cap is 8 nails long, to be cut down the selvage, and 2½ nails wide; your material would, therefore, cut to the best advantage if 15 nails wide, to admit of six caps being cut in the width. The crown or circular piece is 1 nail across when hemmed, therefore, cut it as much larger as will allow for the turning down.

It is finished as follows: make the runners and hem in front very small and firm, either at regular distances from each other, or otherwise, according to fancy. Sew up the back, H, and make a small neat hem at the bottom, J K, to admit another bobbin; afterwards, whip the top, L M, having previously with pins divided it into quarters. Hem the circular piece and crease it into four also, and gather the cap into the crown, drawing the whipping evenly, and making each quarter correspond.

Fig. 11 is the same shape, but more ornamented, having a worked crown, and made of spotted cambric. These caps look very pretty with a white or delicate blue or pink satin or silk inner cap, to set off the work. A piece of insertion-work is also put between the runners in front, which adds to the lightness of their appearance.

PLATE 2. FIG. 12, 13.

This is much used by the poor, and is easily made and as easily washed. Take of the material a piece 6 nails down the selvage, and 3½ nails wide. Double it, letting D be the doubled part. Sew up the back from A to C, leaving a small hole or button-hole at the top, C; make a runner all round the front and behind, at half a nail’s distance from the edge, which is hemmed with a very narrow hem to form a frill: also, lay in a runner from E to F; next, sew a bobbin at B, letting one end of the string hang outside, and the other, being pulled through the seam, remains inside the cap. This end is carried up and brought out through the hole at C (see the dotted line in the Plate which represents the top inside); when worn, the tapes, on being tied together at B, draw up the cap into shape, and if neatly arranged and pulled out with the fingers, it looks very neat and pretty. (See Fig. 13.) Some put a loop of bobbin inside at B, which, on being brought out through C, fastens to a button at B, on the outside. [Pg 21]

THE FULL FRENCH CAP.

PLATE 2. FIG. 14, 15, 16.

This is exceedingly pretty, but is rather troublesome to get up at the wash, and sometimes requires unpicking to be neatly done.

Take a piece of cambric 10 nails wide width-way, and 1¼ deep selvage-wise (see Fig. 15). Take another piece, 6 nails long selvage-wise and 1¼ wide (see Fig. 16). The latter piece is that part in which runners are made to admit of bobbins.

A crown of 1 nail across is then cut, to which the long strip (Fig. 15) is evenly fulled all round with a piece of lace or edging let in all round. The other side is fulled to the front of the cap, and the border being put on, the whole is completed.

CHILD’S HORSE-SHOE CAP.

PLATE 2. FIG. 17, 18, 19.

EXPLANATION OF THE FIRST SIZE.

This is commonly called the horse-shoe cap, from the resemblance of the crown in shape to a horse-shoe. The length of the cap down the selvage is 6 nails, and the width 2½ nails. Double it, (see Fig. 18, D being the double part,) and slope at the top of the front, L, to the back, M. The distance from M to O is 2 nails, therefore, half a nail is thus sloped off. For the horse-shoe or crown (Fig. 17), cut a piece 2 nails long and 1¼ wide; fold it length-wise in half, and half a nail from the top, begin to round off the corner towards C, to form the horse-shoe; then measure off at the bottom of the piece, while still doubled, a quarter of a nail, which cut off from A to B, curving it a little to give it a prettier shape. The cap is made up with two or three runners in front: the head-piece is put into the crown, the gathers to be rather fulled at B (Fig. 19), and nearly, if not quite, plain from D to D. The frilling is one inch deep.

INFANT’S FRENCH CAP.

PLATE 2. FIG. 20, 21.

FIRST SIZE.

This shape is only used for infants, therefore, a scale is unnecessary. It is very pretty, though but little worn, and never used for the poor. [Pg 22]

The cap is 8 nails long down the selvage, and 2¾ wide. After doubling it in half, fold it again from A to A, and then from A to B; shape a quarter of a nail off the corners, in a semi-circular form. In the front, D, measure 3 nails, and cut off the 1 nail, taking care to cut by the thread, in an upright direction, for the distance of 1 nail, (P G,) and then slope it off in a corner, to half a nail below the top. In making it up, sew up the back neatly, and full the cap very equally into the crown, which must be one nail across, when hemmed. Three or more runners in front, and double frills, complete the cap.

Ribbon chin-strings to draw through loops on each side, on account of washing.

COCKADES, ROSETTES, &c.

A few words on the rosettes and bows usually put on children’s caps, hats, and bonnets, may not be unacceptable.

There are several kinds of these bows, of which the following are the principal.

A cockade for an infant boy’s cap or hat. This is made of narrow white satin ribbon, sewn on a small circle of buckram, which should be about the size of half-a-crown. Begin at the outer edge of the buckram, and sew the ribbon on in small loops or bows, round and round, until you fill it quite up to the centre.

Lace cockade for a boy. This is often made of some costly kind of lace, generally Valenciennes, and requires four yards. It should be whipped at the edge, and sewn on to a piece of buckram or stiff muslin, beginning at the outer edge of it.

When intended for a girl, it is called a rosette, and instead of being round, it is an oval or long shape, and looks like several frillings of lace sewn together, perhaps 1½ nail long. It is made in the same way as the cockade.

A pretty and less expensive lace cockade or rosette, may be made by sewing edging on each side of a broad piece of net, gathering the net in the middle and running it upon a buckram circle or oval beginning in the centre of it and working to the edge, making the lace stand as full and close as possible.

Infants’ hats and bonnets have pretty trimmings of satin cut the cross way, and about 1½ or 2 nails broad, on a buckram foundation, either round for a cockade, or oval for a rosette; they are merely gathered at one edge, and sewn on the buckram, as described above, beginning in the centre. Being cut the cross way prevents the outer edge roving out easily.

A simple little bow for a bonnet, or to fasten the neck of a dress or pelisse, may be made as follows. Cut off a piece of ribbon 2½ nails long, and plait or gather it up in the middle; this is for the ends: take another piece 3½ or nearly 4 nails long, gather it up in the centre, and turn the two ends of it underneath, to the middle, gathering them up also, thus forming two bows; lay these bows upon the first piece, and sew them together in the centre, with strong thread: to conceal the gathering, fold a small piece of the ribbon very narrow, and tie or sew it round the middle of the bow, as if to hold it together; this finishes it neatly.

INFANTS’ OPEN SHIRTS.

PLATE 2. FIG. 22, 23, 24, 25, 26.

Infants’ shirts are generally made of soft calico for the poor, and very fine lawn or cambric, for the higher classes. [Pg 23]

Either of the above sizes is very good for babies’ first shirts. The small size fits the best for the first five or six weeks after the infant’s birth, but with a large baby would soon be too small; the second size, therefore, though rather too large to begin with, is eventually the most useful. As it is advisable to avoid waste as much as possible, the width of the material would best determine the size, taking care, however, that it does not exceed the one, or be smaller than the other of the above scales.

In cutting out 24 shirts (see Plate 2, Fig. 22), cut eight lengths of 10 nails for the skirts (see A), eight lengths of 1¼ nails for sleeves (see B), and three lengths of 1 nail (see C) for gussets.

In cutting out the first size, choose your calico of exactly 15 nails, to admit of three shirts being cut in the width, of 5 nails long each. The width of the shirt down the selvage is 10 nails. Fold the shirt in half, and then double it again, so as to fold it in quarters (Fig. 27), cut a slit down the two doubled parts in front for the arm-holes (see O Q); take care that you do not cut your arm-holes at the wrong end of the doubled part, they should be slit at the end where there are two folded parts to slit down: make them 1½ nails deep, then leave a full three-quarters of a nail for the shoulder (see O B), and slit down a full nail to form the bosom and back flaps (see B D). The sleeves are 1¼ nails long, to be cut down the selvage, and 2½ nails wide, so that three pairs will cut exactly in the width of the calico, if 15 nails wide.

The gussets are a bare nail square; about eight pairs will cut in the width. Fig. 26 is the appearance of the skirt after being cut out, when half opened, so as to be doubled once. In making a shirt, hem it neatly with a very narrow hem, unless there is a selvage at the bottom: hem, also, the two sides and the flaps, taking care to do the last properly, so as when falling over, to lie the right side outwards. Two narrow tape strings are sewn to the corners of the middle flap, 7 nails long. The shoulders are sewn and felled with very narrow seams; the gussets are then sewn on the sleeves, which are very neatly hemmed. The sleeve is set into the shirt, and fulled at the top in neat and very small gathers. All the seams should lie particularly flat, and be as narrow as you can make them.

INFANT’S SECOND OR
CLOSE SHIRT.

PLATE 2. FIG. 27, 28, 29, 30.

When infants are about nine months old, they generally leave off using the open or first shirt, and begin to wear the close shirt (Fig. 30) until they reach the age of seven or eight years, when the usual shaped shirt or shift is worn. [Pg 24]

EXPLANATION OF THE FIRST SIZE.

Choose your lawn or calico 14 nails wide, if possible, to admit exactly of one shirt in the width. Cut 4 nails down the selvage-way for the length of the shirt.

Fold the piece in half, which will make it 7 nails wide when thus doubled, make a slit down the doubled part of 1¾ nails deep for the arm-hole, and put a pin in the two selvages to mark the depth of the other arm-hole. Fold the shirt once more, so as to lay the two arm-holes one upon the other, (see Fig. 27), and, at the top, from O to Q, measure 1½ nails for the shoulder, and slit 1½ nails, making the slit B D slope outwards towards the sleeve, about half a nail out of the straight line, as bosom flaps shaped thus, set much better to the figure, and also that part of the shoulder (Fig. 30, P) can be turned over, and confines all straps, tapes, &c. neatly, so as to prevent their being seen from under the frock sleeve.

The sleeve usually put in is 1 nail deep, to be cut down the selvage, and 3 nails wide. The sleeve-gusset a full nail square, and the skirt gusset half a nail square. (See Fig. 24.)

The shirt is made up as follows (see Fig. 30). Sew the two selvages together (see R) with fine strong thread, leaving 1¾ nails above for the arm-hole, S, and 1 nail below for the opening, or tail of the shirt, U. The corresponding side, H, is double, so that the slit for the arm-hole and for the tail have to be cut. Hem the bottom of the skirt and up the tails, after putting in the gussets (or tail bits as they are generally called). Some people think these tail gussets unnecessary for young children; but they add so much to the strength of the shirt, and give so little extra trouble, that they are well worth the pains. Sew and fell the shoulders with flat narrow seams, hem the bosom flaps, taking care to turn down your hems so as to be the right side outwards, where the flap falls over. Set in your sleeves quite plain, till nearly the top of the shoulder, and full in the remainder, in very small neat gathers. Two tape strings are sewn at the corners of the front bosom flaps.

Fig. 25 is another pattern of a sleeve which is very neat when worn, as it is never seen below the frock sleeve; but it has a less finished appearance than the other. This last shape, however, is preferable for children from four to six years of age, from its strength and simplicity, and is made as follows:—Cut a piece of calico two nails square, which fold and cut in half, corner-wise (see Fig. 29); fold this half square again, and the double part, D, falls under the arm, E is set into the shirt, and H is hemmed neatly for the arm to go through. The great advantage of this shape is, that the shift sleeve is never seen from beneath the child’s frock, and therefore always sets neatly (see Fig. 30, the sleeve to the right).

PLATE 3.

[Pg 25]

INFANTS’ FIRST FLANNEL GOWNS.

PLATE 3. FIG. 1, 2.

This is an excellent pattern for an infant’s first gown, either day or night, from the ease with which it is put on, and also for the warmth and support it gives to the child. The body is made of flannel, lined with very fine soft calico or lawn.

In cutting out the skirt, tear off two breadths of the proper length. The long clothes of babies of the higher classes are longer than those of the poor, as the latter would soon be tumbled and dirty, they should be 13 or 14 nails, and for the former, about one yard is ample. Some ladies dress their children in very long flannels and robes, but this is as unnecessary as it is ill-judged; for the weight of the long petticoats must be painful, besides the perfect inability of the poor infant to stretch and kick about its little limbs, is obvious.

Divide one of these breadths in two, and pin a half-breadth to each side of the whole breadth. Run firmly down the two seams, and herring-bone them back again, and then bind with the flannel binding neatly down the two sides of the front, and at the bottom of the skirt. The body is 12 nails long to be cut down the selvage, and 2 nails wide. About seven bodies can be cut in the width, flannel being generally 14 nails wide. Double the piece for the body length-wise, and stick in a pin 1½ nail from the front or doubled part (see A B) to mark where the beginning of the arm-hole lies. The arm-hole is 1¼ nail across, and ¾ nail deep; after cutting it out, slope the remainder of the body from H to K in a straight line, to within a ¼ nail from the bottom at the end, so as not to finish off in a point. A large opening, or sort of button-hole is next made under the left arm-hole, to be ¾ nail long, leaving about ¼ nail above and below it. It is thus made up: place the soft lining upon the flannel, taking care that the wrong side is outwards, and run them firmly together, pretty near the edge, along the two sides, the top of the body, and round the arm-holes; after which, finish your thread firmly off, turn the body inside out, and stroke the lining and flannel smoothly together, by putting your hand inside and pressing it gently all round. Next put the skirt into the body; measure the middle of each and pin them together; afterwards, pin the front or opening of the skirt at M, exactly half way between the arm-hole and the end of the body (see O P). The skirt from M to O to be set in plain, and then the remainder plaited up in about twelve small equal plaits to the middle, taking care to turn the plaits so as to lie outwards from the centre towards the point; the other half is then to be fixed in, and with a strong thread, stitch the plaits to the flannel body, laying the two rough edges together. When done, smooth down the stitched part, and hem the calico lining to it.

The body should next be run neatly and firmly with very small stitches all round, about ¼ inch from the edge. In the part from P to M, the lining should be made so as to be a little seen on the outside, and be hemmed down to represent flannel binding. The lawn or calico shoulder-straps should be cut 1¾ nail long, and a button-hole worked at one end, while the other is sewn on that end of the arm-hole towards the middle. The slit or button-hole should be turned over neatly by the lining, to appear as if bound all round. Two narrow tapes of 4 nails long, sewn to the points, complete the whole. In dressing the infant, the one end is drawn round through the slit, which makes it fit closely and compactly to the figure, and yet be soft and elastic. Fig. 2 is the representation of one folded as if on.

ANOTHER SHAPE FOR AN INFANT’S
FIRST FLANNEL NIGHT-GOWN.

PLATE 3. FIG. 5, 6, 7.

This is a very good kind also, and the one in most general use, though not equal to the one just described. It takes a breadth and a half to make this petticoat, therefore it prevents waste if you cut out two at once. [Pg 26]

Cut your two breadths 14 nails long, or a yard, according to pleasure, and measure along the width of one breadth (Fig. 5) 3½ nails from the selvage (see A B), and put in a pin as a mark. Measure the same at the other end of the width of the flannel, making your measurement from the opposite selvage (see C D); then double your flannel smoothly across from B to D, and cut it evenly along the sloping line.

The other breadth of flannel is torn exactly down the middle. Take one of these halves, and let one of the above mentioned sloped pieces be pinned on each side of it, taking care to place them with the sloped part outwards (see Fig. 6, E E), and the smaller part of each sloped piece be at the top. After running and herring-boning the two seams, P P, you must cut out the top part of the skirt to form the body. First, therefore, double the skirt very evenly in half, and beginning at the end which is open, leave 3½ nails for the back, L L, and place a pin as a mark; and also in order that the flannel, when once laid correctly, may not slip out of its place. Measure 1½ nail for the arm-hole, which you must also pin; then cut it out to the depth of ½ nail, L O N, measure 1½ nail beyond for the bosom, N X, and then cut down 1 nail deep, in a straight line, X Y; after which, cut off the flannel in a straight line, Y W, to the end. The gown, when opened, has the appearance of Fig. 6, with a large piece cut out of the bosom in the middle. The two sides of this gap in the bosom should be very firmly run together about one inch from the edges; these edges then should be laid open, so as to turn back, one on the one side, and the other on the other, and very neatly herring-boned down; it will thus have the appearance of two hems (see Z Z, Fig. 7). The skirt, which of course is very full, must be set into two equal double plaits, and herring-boned upon the body in the inside. The skirt at the sides must next be set in two or three plaits (see F G, Fig. 7), so that, when plaited up, the space from the arm-hole to the back be but 1½ nail. Bind or herring-bone the top of the bosom, and make a string-case of soft tape at the top of the back. Put in the tapes, sew on shoulder straps of soft calico or tape, with button-holes, and put on the buttons at the end of the arm-hole, towards the back.

ANOTHER INFANT’S
FLANNEL GOWN.

PLATE 3. FIG. 4.

This shape is the one generally used by the lower classes, not only for flannels, but for print gowns and petticoats; and is preferred to others on account of the ease with which it is cut out, and also because there is much less needle-work in the making up: there is, however, some waste, which is an objection. The gown is 13 nails long, but as there should be no seam on the shoulder, the two breadths must be cut in one length of 26 nails, which is 1 yard 10 nails. Double it in two, so as to be 13 nails long, and then fold it in half very evenly down the middle, so as to make the four selvages lie exactly one upon the other, and pin them firmly down to keep the folds in place; then, after measuring 3 nails from the selvages at the top (see A S), to determine the length of the sleeves, cut out the part S C D, to form the neck of the gown. Observe that the part from S to C is a nail deep, which should be nicely rounded off, and from C to D, the bosom is cut straight along.

The gown is next shaped at the side; and to do so properly, put in a pin at S, and fold it in a regular slope down to the bottom of the gown. Measure down the slope from the top, S, the distance of 2 nails, and put in a pin as a guide; cut off from the bottom upwards to T, and rounding it off at the corner, slope along T K for the sleeve, allowing 1½ nail width for the wrist. In making it up, the seams should be joined with a mantua-maker’s hem, and a band should be sewn on the inside of the front, to be 6 nails in length, and about 1½ nail below the neck. Cut a button-hole in the gown at each end of the band, draw with a bodkin a piece of tape through one hole, and fasten it down at the other extremity of the band; do the same with the other button-hole, so that on pulling the tapes, the gown will be drawn up, and neatly fulled in front. [Pg 27]

INFANT’S SECOND SIZE
NIGHT-FLANNEL.

PLATE 3. FIG. 3.

This shape is used when infants are six or eight months old, and is merely a double flannel body sewn upon the skirt, which is two breadths of 12 nails in length.

The body is 11 nails long, to be cut down the selvage, and 2½ nails deep when doubled; therefore cut it 5 nails wide, and double it down all the length very carefully. You must pin or tack it together evenly, to enable you to cut out the arm-holes correctly. Then fold the body in two, measure from the end two nails for the back, A, and cut out the arm-hole 1 nail deep, and 1½ nail across. Open the body again, unpick the tacking-threads, and run round the arm-holes with small firm stitches on the wrong side of the flannel, also up the sides; after which, turn the body inside out, and then make a large plait in front as a support to the child; this plait ought to be so large, that when made, only 2¾ nails will remain between the arm-holes, instead of 4 nails. After herring-boning this plait neatly down, run in small stitches all round the body (see the dotted line) at about a ¼ of an inch from the edge, to make the flannel lie flat, and give it a finished appearance. Some people back-stitch it, and others prefer making a line of very small herring-bone, or else chain-stitch it all round. These last two modes are certainly more ornamental, but the simple running is quite as neat, and saves much time; three tapes must be sewn on one end of the body, at equal distances from each other, and at scarcely a nail from the edge; the three tapes at the other end to be sewn on close to the edge, and to correspond with the others, so as to tie neatly with each other, and to allow of the body lapping over nearly a nail. The shoulder straps of tape are sewn on, and are 2 nails long, after allowing an extra half nail for turning in.

The skirt is sewn up, and not open as the others; the bottom is neatly bound, the pocket-hole is torn down the middle of one of the breadths, and is two nails long; it must also be bound all round. The skirt is set into the body in small plaits.

INFANT’S FIRST SIZE
DAY FLANNEL.

PLATE 3. FIG. 8.

The body is made of fine jean or twill, lined with lawn; or, if for the lower classes, of soft coarse calico, with plenty of nap upon it. The body is 8 nails long, to be cut down the selvage, and 1¼ deep, so that twelve bodies could be exactly cut in the width, if your stuff were 15 nails wide. [Pg 28]

Fold the body in two, and, after measuring 1½ nail from the edge, cut out the arm-holes, which are 1 nail across, and ¾ nail deep. Slope off, both at the top of the back and at the bosom, about a ¾ of an inch, to make it set better. The lining is next cut out, and both are run neatly together, the wrong side outwards, near the edges, along the sides and top, and round the arm-holes: when done, turn the body inside outwards, and flatten it between your finger and thumb, so as to make it lie flat. Afterwards back-stitch it, in beautifully even stitches, all round the top and sides, at a little distance from the edge. Sew on the shoulder-straps and tapes, putting three on each side; those on one side to be set close to the edge, and the other three at about half a nail’s distance from it. The skirt is about 14 nails or a yard long: the two breadths are sewn together, and the pocket-hole torn in the middle of the back breadth about 2 nails. The bottom is bound, as also the pocket-hole, and the skirt set in the body in regular small plaits at the sides, leaving it plain in the middle for about 2 nails.

ANOTHER CHILD’S
DAY FLANNEL.

PLATE 3. FIG. 13.

This pattern is intended for children of six to ten years, previous to their wearing stays. The body is made of fine jean, and lined with calico; pieces of cord or bobbin are placed between the two in rows, and fastened in by the needle, running the body and lining together between each two rows. Rows of cord may be thus run in various patterns, and, if neatly done, look very pretty.

The Plate is a sufficient guide for cutting out the body, without further description. The skirt should be set in plaits in the middle, and towards the ends. The shoulder-straps should also be of jean.

INFANT’S FLANNEL BAND.

PLATE 3. FIG. 12.

Infants require great warmth and support round the stomach and hips, and for that purpose, wear flannel bands for the first ten or twelve months.

Cut the flannel down the selvage 14 nails long, and 2½ nails wide. It should be exactly 15 nails in width, to enable you to cut out six without waste.

Herring-bone very neatly the top and bottom, and herring-bone a deep hem of ½ a nail (see A) at one end, and a narrow one (see D) at the other; then make two large plaits in the middle, to reduce the length to 11 nails (see B C). These plaits will be about half a nail deep, and should fall one on each side of the middle, and be herring-boned down. The three strings on each side to be sewn as seen in the Plate; those of the one side to be put at 3 nails from the end.

INFANTS’ FLANNEL
PILCHERS OR SAVERS.

PLATE 3. FIG. 9, 10.

Infants often wear pilchers or savers, put over their napkins, to prevent their clothes from being wetted. They are made as follows:—

Cut a piece of flannel 11 nails square, fold it in half, and cut it crosswise, A B: it will make two pilchers. It must next be rounded off a little at the two corners, A B, and at the third corner, E, (which, observe, is opposite the cross-way of the flannel,) sew on a piece of calico, in which cut a button-hole. The crossed part, A B, is then neatly plaited into a calico band, 1 nail deep, when doubled, and 8 nails long, and a button and button-hole sewn on at the ends. In putting it on, first button the band round the waist in front, bring the corner between the legs, and button it to the same button. [Pg 29]

INFANTS’ NAPKINS.

PLATE 3. FIG 11.

Babies napkins should be made of soft diaper, or, if for the poor, old sheeting, table linen, or strong fine linen answers well. Choose your material exactly 10 or 20 nails wide. Napkins are generally made by cutting the diaper in lengths of 20 nails, and doubling each length in two. Sew nearly all round the doubled piece, taking care to turn the raw edges outwards instead of inwards, as usually done, because the napkin is turned inside out, when it is sewn all round, with the exception of a space large enough to admit the hand, to enable it to be turned. This opening is afterwards neatly sewn up with small stitches. It is essential that the seam or outer edge of napkins should be as smooth and soft as possible, on account of the tender skin of infants: it is very desirable to soak and scald the material often before it is used. Two strings and a tape loop may be added, to be used instead of a pin, to fasten it on.

ANOTHER MODE OF
MAKING NAPKINS.

The pieces, when cut off, should be merely hemmed like towels, and, when used, are doubled and put on as the others. The grand advantage of this simple sort is, that when there is but one baby, they come in, after nursery use, for towels and other purposes, whereas the others are comparatively useless.

INFANT’S NIGHT-GOWN.

PLATE 3. FIG. 14, 15.

Night-gowns are generally made of calico or dimity, and sometimes of fine twilled muslin. The calico are most frequently used, but the dimity look the prettiest; they, however, often split, and are not so durable as the former.

This pattern is the one usually adopted by ladies for infants: it requires great neatness in the making up, to look well.

Let your material be about a yard wide, and cut two breadths of 18 nails long each. Fold each breadth very evenly down the middle, and at one end stick a pin, exactly 2 nails from the selvages. Crease the stuff from this point to about a nail from the bottom, and cut off the gore. These gores come in for the two bands and wristbands. The former are each 10 nails long, and 1 nail deep; the wristbands are 2½ nails wide, and, when double, are ¾ nail deep: they should be nicely rounded at one end. The sleeves are cut in the shape and to the size of Plate 4, Fig. 15.

After sewing up the seams, the neck and arm-holes are formed. The shoulder is a little sloped, and is 1¼ nail long. The arm-holes are a little curved, and 1¾ nail deep. The bosom and back are hollowed, and the slit behind is 3 nails deep.

Procure a piece of strong insertion-work, 2½ nails long, and ⅔ of a nail deep.

In making it up, first hem the neck of the gown, and, at ¾ of a nail below the bosom, run the finest gathers possible, leaving a space of 1½ nail on each side, between the end of the gathers and the sleeve. The gown is again gathered across, about a nail below the first gathering, and then the insertion muslin is very neatly sewn on the gathers, with very small even stitches; the two bands are next stitched, one at each end of the insertion-work, and are rounded off at the ends. A narrow frill of lawn is put round the bosom. The sleeves are fulled at the top, and set in; they are either merely hemmed to admit a tape, and a lawn frill sewn on them, or are put into wristbands, which should button [Pg 30] over. Instead of putting in insertion-work, some bias it at the waist, which is thought to make it wear better.

Fig. 14 represents the front, and Fig. 15 the back of the gown.

ANOTHER INFANT’S
NIGHT-GOWN.

PLATE 3. FIG. 16, 17.

The skirt of this pattern is cut out exactly like the one before mentioned, but is made up in a more simple manner. The gown, instead of being gathered in front, is left loose, and a strip of calico, ½ a nail deep, is sewn on in the inside, about ¾ of a nail deep from the bosom, and of such a length as to leave, on each side, but two nails space between it and the arm-holes. This piece of calico is to be used as a string-case, and two small slits for tape-holes must be cut in the gown, at about a ¼ of a nail distance, within each end of the strip. The tapes should be rather broad, and each, on being drawn by a bodkin through its slit, should be carried along the string-case and firmly fastened down to the opposite end, so that, on pulling the two strings, the gown is drawn up in neat gathers, forming a body. The sleeves are cut down the selvage instead of crosswise, and are nearly straight, the top being 4 nails wide, and the bottom or wrist, 2½ nails. A small frill may be put on the bosom and wrists; or, if it is a coloured gown for a poor child, a small runner to admit a bobbin, at the distance of the width of a narrow frill from the edge, will, on being drawn up, form a very neat frill both for the bosom and sleeves.

ANOTHER INFANT’S
NIGHT-GOWN.

This sort is only used by the poorer classes. It is made of coloured print or soft calico, and is cut out exactly after the pattern of the flannel bed-gown (see Plate 3, Fig. 4). The frills are formed by making runners near the edge of the neck and wrists.

INFANTS’ PINAFORES.

PLATE 3. FIG. 18.

Pinafores are made of diaper, Holland, linen, or print. The former are for ladies’ infants—the latter for the poor. The patterns vary according to sex and age. The one generally used at first is as follows:—

Procure your material exactly the proper width for the pinafore, to prevent waste. Alter cutting off the pieces of the proper length and width for the pinafores, take one piece and fold it down the middle, [Pg 31] length-wise, in two; then again fold it, and cut the slits for the arm-holes by a thread. Pin it carefully together, still folded in four, whilst you hollow out the neck, leaving the proper space for the shoulders. Hem it at the top as you would a shift, by turning down the hem, and then turning it backwards, the more readily to hold it while you sew the hem firmly all round. The arm-holes should have narrow hems, and be very firmly sewed at the bottom, or they will tear. Whip and sew on the frills, hem the bottom, sew on the tapes, and the pinafore is completed. Some people put gussets in at the shoulder: and it is better to do so for elder children.

For further sizes, see School Girl’s Pinafore.

PINAFORE WITH LAPPETS.

PLATE 3. FIG. 19.

This shape is very much used by the poor, as it protects the sleeves. The pinafore is cut out exactly as in Fig. 18; but instead of putting on frills, little capes or lappets are substituted. These capes are cut width-way of the size, according to the Scale.

The cape is rounded off towards the ends, and, after being neatly hemmed, is whipped and sewn all round the arm-hole, making the ends come under the arm. In front, the pinafore is confined with a band, which is stitched firmly on in two places before, and which, passing round the waist, buttons behind.

THE WASTE-NOT PINAFORE.

PLATE 3. FIG. 20, 21.

This is a particularly simple shape, being cut without any waste whatever.

Divide the pinafore in four, and cut it according to the Plate.

Cut from A to D, by which means a shoulder-flap is made, and, when on, the shoulder-piece is raised sufficiently to prevent the necessity of hollowing out the neck. A double plait should be sewn under the arm-hole (see Fig. 21, A). This cape, being plain, is improved by an edging of work, or a little braid, to add lightness to its appearance.

A BABY’S DRESS PINAFORE
OR TIDY.

PLATE 3. FIG. 22.

Intended to be worn when the child’s frock is tumbled or untidy. It is made of cambric or jaconet muslin. There are two breadths in it of 14 nails wide—one breadth in front, and the other cut in two, and sewn on [Pg 32] each side. The arm-holes are made in the seams, and frilled round, or lappets sewn on. At the top in front, from shoulder to shoulder, the pinafore is drawn up by a tape in the hem, and secured to the proper size. The front is biassed into a band of insertion-work, to go partly round the waist. The back is drawn by a string at the top, and again below by a string-case. The front may be either simply biassed once into the band, or it may have three or four rows of biassing. Round the top is an edging of work, or a frill.

INFANTS’ PETTICOATS.

PLATE 4. FIG. 1.

Petticoats are generally made of jaconet muslin, twilled muslin, or fine calico, and should be about 14 nails wide. The skirt is 2 breadths in width, and cut to the length required, after allowing for the deep hem or tucks. They are usually cut the following sizes for the rich and poor.

In cutting out the body, double the strip in two, and again in half, so as to be folded exactly in four, and cut out the arm-holes according to the depth and width wanted, as seen by the Scale. The sleeves are cut out according to the pattern in Plate 4, Fig. 12 or 13; the shoulder-straps are cut out, and the body is ready for making up. Hem it along the top, sufficiently wide to admit a tape, stitch on the shoulder-straps, sew and hem the sleeves, and gather them into the shoulder-straps. The body should have rather wide hems at the two ends, and a sufficiently wide hem at the bottom to admit a narrow tape. Full the body in front, and sew it firmly to the skirt (which should be previously gathered), making it lie pretty evenly all round. The top strings should draw from the shoulder-straps only, and another string may be run in the front to draw it, and tie on one side.

INFANTS’ FROCKS.

PLATE 4.

Are generally made of jaconet muslin, twilled muslin, and print, and, when the children are older, sometimes of nankeen, jean, Holland, merino, cloth, stuff, and silk. Those for the poor are usually of print, and are made according to the pattern for petticoats (see Plate 4, Fig. 1); those for the rich are made in various ways, among which are the following:—

• The full body.
• The plain body, cut in one piece.
• The plain body, with backs and fronts cut crosswise.

PLATE 4.

[Pg 33]

SCALE FOR THE SKIRTS.

Width of skirt 2 or 3 breadths, so as to form from 14 to 16 nails wide, when the skirt is double, as if made up.

There are so many ways of making up skirts, that only a few will be described.

Broad hems and tucks of various depths are the simplest and prettiest; others are more ornamented by letting in work at the top of the broad hem, or working with braid, bobbin, or cord. Robings are often brought down in front, in continuation of the little capes sewn on the bodies. These robings should be 1½ nail broad, sloped off to ½ nail, and carried down to the bottom of the skirt, or to the top of a deep hem. They should be sewn on so that the edge of the work is turned outwards.

The sleeves are made according to fancy, and are of the sizes marked in the Scale, pages 35, 36.—(See also, Plate 4.)

FULL BODIES.

PLATE 4. FIG. 1.

In cutting it out, double the strip for the body once, and again in half, and then cut out the arm-holes the proper depth and width. The full body is made up in either of the following ways:—the first and most simple, is by merely hemming it at the top and bottom, putting wide hems at the ends, and then setting it upon the skirt, making more fulness at the back and in front than at the sides. The sleeves are put into the body with shoulder-straps. [Pg 34]

The tapes are put in to draw from the shoulder-straps behind, at the top, and another string to draw in front, also a tape all through the waist-hem.

These simply-made frocks are very useful for fast-growing children, as they will let out to the size wanted.

ANOTHER MODE OF
MAKING UP.

PLATE 4. FIG. 2.

The other mode of making them up is the neatest in appearance. The body is gathered at the top and set into a long narrow band, which forms the hem and the shoulder-straps. The bottom of the body is also firmly gathered, and sewn on with very strong thread to the skirt, which is also gathered so as to let the fulness lie principally in front. Sometimes the body is biassed in front in two or three rows, as in Fig. 2.

PLAIN STRAIGHT BODY.

Straight bodies are generally used for ladies’ children, and are ornamented in different ways. Some are worked in bobbin-work, coronation braid (see Fig. 4), common braid, or else work is let in; and others with satin-stitch worked on the muslin, or very fine small tucks, either horizontal or perpendicular (see Fig. 3). One or two bodies will be more minutely described here, as a guide by which to make others.

PLATE 4. FIG. 5.

Divide the body in half, so as to ascertain the middle, and run a tacking-thread down it; run two others, one on each side, at the distance of little more than ½ a nail from the middle, at the top, and slanting down to the middle point at the bottom of the body; run two others, at the distance of ⅔ of a nail on each side of the last, slanting them towards the centre, at the distance of ½ a nail on each side from the centre. These tacking-threads serve as a guide, by which means the pattern can be done more regularly. Sew two bobbin-lines, one on each side of each tacking-thread, leaving a small space between them sufficiently wide for little oylet-holes, or some other ornamental pattern, to be worked. Afterwards, sew on the bobbin neatly in patterns, according to fancy. Put in the sleeves next, having worked the bands and the triangular shoulder-bits to correspond with the front. Next put on the capes. The whole should be trimmed with a little edging or narrow work. [Pg 35]

PLATE 4. FIG. 8.

The front is worked in fancy button-hole stitch, as in Plate 5, Fig. 19. The bands round the sleeves and the triangular shoulder-bits are worked in rows of the same stitch. The capes are worked near the edge with the horse-shoe stitch, as also the ends of the body (Plate 5, Fig. 20), and the edging is entirely of fancy bobbin edging (Plate 5, Fig. 18).

PLATE 4. FIG. 6.

Procure some pretty open work, in the style of that in the Plate, and sew several strips together, always making the pieces narrower at the bottom than at the top, in order to make them point towards the centre, as in the Plate. A body made thus generally wears and washes very well. The capes should be of some pretty work, and the whole trimmed with edging to match the rest. The triangular shoulder-bits have a piece of insertion-work inlaid in them.

BODY WITH
HONEY-COMB STITCH.

This body has the side-bits cut as above, and the front is a triangular piece of honeycomb-stitch worked and let in. In making the triangular bit, lay the plaits very narrow and even, before working it in honeycomb. For a description of the stitch, see Plate 1, Fig. 15, 16.

SLEEVES.

PLATE 4.

There are various sorts of long and short sleeves, some of which it is impossible to describe clearly, and it will not, therefore, be attempted. The most simple are the following:—

THE ROUND SLEEVE.

FIG. 1, 18.

FIG. 18.

Cut your material into square pieces of the size wanted (in proportion to the Scale), and double the square in half, so as to make it triangular, or three-cornered in shape. Fold it in the same manner again and again, as often as it will admit of being done; one side is longer than the other, mark it with your scissors the same distance on the long side from the point, as it is on the short, and cut it directly across; by which means the square will become a circle, as will be seen when opened. This circle should be hollowed out at one side (Plate 4, Fig. 18), in order to make it set better under the arm. Before opening the circle, a small hole should be cut at the pointed [Pg 36] end, to form the opening for the arm in proper proportion. The shoulder-strap and band are next cut. Set the inner circle very neatly into the band; after which, gather the outer circle and sew it to the shoulder-strap, ready to put into the body. This sleeve is sometimes confined by loops of ribbon, or little triangular pieces of work, as in Fig. 2 and 6.

ANOTHER SHAPE.

PLATE 4. FIG. 13.

PRINCIPALLY USED FOR
PETTICOATS AND PLAIN FROCKS.

It is better to cut this pattern (and indeed all patterns of sleeves) in paper, before cutting your material, to prevent waste. The pattern, when folded in half, resembles Fig. 13, being for the first size, and is 2 nails deep from A to B, and 3½ nails long from B to C. The top, from A to D, is sloped down, beginning at E, which is about half the length, by which means the depth from D to C is only 1 nail. When opened, the sleeve resembles Fig. 12. In cutting it out, turn up a corner of your material (Fig. 12) in the form of a half-handkerchief, A B being parallel to, or straight with C D. The pattern sleeve is laid with the long straight end upon the crease, so as to lie crosswise. Cut through the folded muslin carefully by the pattern, so that the pair of sleeves is cut at once. The part which forms the bottom of the sleeve is straight, and should be gathered into the band. The sloped side is gathered or whipped into the shoulder-strap.

PLATE 4. FIG. 14.

The Scale is the same as Fig. 13 and 8.

This sleeve is the most favourite shape, and is cut out exactly like Fig. 13; after which the part, A B, is sloped off at 1 nail from the end, C. A triangular piece of worked muslin is hemmed round; the sleeve is then neatly put into the arm-hole, with mantua-maker’s hem, or run and felled, after which the rest of the sleeve is whipped and sewed on to the triangular piece. These sleeves are generally made with a little frill very much fulled, which forms a cape behind, and also in front; the frill is therefore sewed on the sleeve neatly at the edge of the triangular bit.

PLATE 4. FIG. 9, 11.

This is another variety of sleeve, and is very pretty for a young child. It is cut out, in the first instance, exactly like Fig. 14; after which it is sloped off in the shape of a triangle below, so that the sleeve requires a triangular bit below, as well as on the shoulder, for the sleeve to be fulled to. The bottom triangle should be cut with the band, into which the sleeve is confined. [Pg 37]

LONG SLEEVES.

PLATE 4. FIG. 15, 16, 17.

Long sleeves, if for bed-gowns and under clothes, may be cut according to the bits of cloth left, to prevent waste, always remembering to cut selvage-wise. They are generally the shape of Fig. 15, Plate 4. The sleeve is sloped off from D to A, so as to cut about a nail off the stuff (see D C). Slope in the direction D E, to make the wrist about 1½ or 2 nails wide. The part, A B D, should be hollowed. Sometimes it is desirable to piece the sleeve when there are many bits; in which case it may be joined across from B to E of the under double, taking care that the muslin pieced on also runs selvage-wise. In cutting out long sleeves, take care to cut them a pair, so that the joinings shall lie outside, and the hollowed part towards the inside or front. From A to C is 3½ nails.

Long sleeves, for dresses, spencers, &c., to be properly made, should be cut as follows (Plate 4, Fig. 16 and 17):—turn up the corner of your muslin to form such an angle as will just hold the sleeve, so as to make the one side of the long sleeve lie along the selvage, as in Fig. 16, where, the sleeve being small, but little of the corner is turned up, in which the sleeve, A B C D, exactly fits. The top corner, F, must be sloped off, and the corner, D C, also, to the proper width for the wrist, which is 1½ nail.

Fig. 17 is a better sort of sleeve, and is here introduced, though it properly belongs to the table of sleeves in Plate 12, in which a description and pattern of each size is correctly given. The corner is turned up to a complete half square, so that A and B are parallel to C D. From A to B is 6 nails; from B to D 5½ nails. From A to H, and from B to C, are 1½ nail. Curve from H to E. From H to G are 5½ nails. From E to F are 3½ nails. From F to G, 1¼ nail. This sleeve is called the gigot, or gigot de mouton sleeve, from its likeness to a leg of mutton. For further particulars, see Sleeves, Plate 12.

AN INFANT’S RECEIVER.

A receiver, or wrapper, in which an infant is put immediately on its birth, previous to its being washed and dressed, is composed of the finest Welsh flannel, with a soft warm nap upon it. This flannel should be a perfect square, and is generally made of 2 breadths of flannel; the width of the flannel must, therefore, determine the size of the square, which should not be less than 24 nails, or more than 2 yards. A soft piece of fine calico, linen, or cambric muslin, is taken, of the same size, and they are bound together with flannel binding. This receiver is frequently used afterwards by the poor in the double capacity of coverlet and shawl, to carry the infant about in.

INFANT’S SHAWL.

For the first three months, infants should be carried about in a shawl, not only on account of the warmth, but as a matter of security to their tender heads and limbs, which cannot bear the hard pressure of the nurse’s arm or hand.

These shawls for the nursery should be simply a square of flannel of 1½ breadth or 2 breadths. The best shawl, with which it is carried into sitting-rooms, should be made of merino, Indiana, kerseymere, or, what is better still, of the fine thick Saxony flannel. These are usually made with very deep hems, about 1½ nail of the same material, braided with silk braid all round, and worked at the corners, or else the hem is formed of pearl-white satin or rich silk; but these last spoil so soon, that it is a great expense. [Pg 38]

INFANT’S FLANNEL CLOAK.

PLATE 4. FIG. 19, 24.

It is recommended to all mothers to have a flannel cloak to wrap round their infants when carried about in their night clothes, and when up at night; and they will be found especially useful when the baby is old enough to be dipped in a cold bath, or obliged to be put in a warm one, as, on taking the child out of it, they can wrap it up entirely, and almost rub it dry with the cloak itself.

The first size here mentioned will last a child well from its birth until eighteen months or two years old.

The cloak requires two flannel shoulder-pieces to make it strong. Full the skirt very evenly all round to the proper size, and then laying the edge between the edges of the two shoulder-pieces, which should be held so as to fall back or down against the skirt, one on each side, sew, or rather back-stitch them very firmly together. When this is done, turn up the shoulder-pieces on each side, so that the edges are completely hidden on both sides of the cloak. Sew the collar neatly on to the other two edges of the shoulder-pieces, and conceal the rough edges by means of a wide string-case of soft tape or calico.

The cloak is bound with flannel binding, and the arm-holes also; they are either opened in the seam, or if that would make them too far back, they should be cut in the flannel at once, at the proper distance. A deep cape might be added as the child grew older, or if it were sickly and required additional warmth.

CHILD’S BIB.

PLATE 4. FIG. 25.

This is often used by mothers for their children while cutting their teeth, to prevent the moisture from their mouths wetting their chests and the bosoms of their frocks. It is made of three or four folds of fine diaper, sewed together on the wrong side, and turned inside out, to conceal the edges, it is hollowed to fit under the chin, and made to tie with a ribbon round the neck.

INFANTS’ PELISSES
AND CLOAKS.

PLATE 4. FIG. 20.

Infant’s first cloaks are generally made of some warm material, as cloth, merino, kerseymere, or wadded silk. The last-mentioned, though pretty, soon spoils, being easily injured by wet, and the colours of those parts near the baby’s chin fly and look shabby; merino and kerseymere are decidedly the best for the purpose, and look equally neat and handsome. There is a kind of fine but thickly woven flannel, [Pg 39] particularly strong and elastic, and well adapted for children’s shawls and cloaks. It is called Saxony flannel, but is rarely to be procured at country shops, and seldom of any colour but white. It is about 1 and 1½ yard wide, and varies from 3s. 2d. to 5s. per yard: for the lower orders, cloth, stuff, nankeen, gingham, or print, are the most serviceable.

INFANT’S LONG PELISSE.

PLATE 4. FIG. 20, 21, 22, 28.

It must be made of two or more breadths, according to the material; as the widths vary exceedingly, it is impossible to lay down a definite rule further than this; that the whole width round the bottom should be from 30 to 33 nails; and at the top sloped off to 24 nails.

Supposing the material to be of wide width (say 20 nails), half one breadth would be wide enough for the back, and one whole breadth crossed according to Fig. 22, would form the two fronts. Observe that the two straight sides of the crossed pieces are set in front.

The sleeves, collar, &c. should be cut from the remaining half-breadth of the cloth.

If the material be but 10 or 12 nails wide, 3 breadths must be used, and the two front breadths sloped off to the proper width at the top.

In making up the pelisses, the front breadths are lined with silk or sarsenet, as also the top part or body, collar, cape, &c., but the back breadth should be lined with cambric muslin. The hem at the bottom of the skirt is about 1½ nail deep, while that up the sides and round the cape and collar are but ¾ of a nail. Take notice, in cutting your collar and cape, that allowance must be made for the hems.

The skirt seams are sewed up, as well as the lining, and joined together by means of the broad hem round the bottom; the shoulders, arm-holes, and sleeves are next completed, after which the neck is finished by making a hem at the top, and drawing a tape through it, which is fastened down at both ends after the skirt has been drawn up to the proper width which should be about 1 nail wider than is required to set round the neck. A strong case of ribbon or other soft material is next put round the neck inside, through which a ribbon is drawn and fastened in the middle. This ribbon, of course, ties in front.

For children’s short pelisses, see Plate 14. [Pg 40]

CLOAKS FOR SUMMER.

PLATE 4. FIG. 23.

This is a very simple and remarkably neat looking pattern for a second sized cloak. It looks well when made of twilled muslin, cloth, nankeen, print, and especially fine dimity. The material should be about 1 yard 3 nails wide, in which case one breadth and 14 nails is sufficient for the skirt, which should be one yard long.

The remaining 5 nails off the second breadth of the skirt may be cut into collar, shoulder-piece, &c. The cloak has a broad hem laid on all round, which the cape and collar have also, to form which, strips should be cut selvage-wise of 1¼ nail, and sometimes worked muslin edging of a neat but open pattern is put on all round.

About 9 or 10 yards of the strips are required, and, as frequent joinings look ill, it would be better to cut off a piece of the material a yard long, from which all the strips can be taken off; 9 strips of this length will only take 11¼ nails out of the breadth; therefore, if economy is a great object, 10 strips might be cut in the breadth of but 10 nails deep, which would cut up the breadth without waste.

If the strips are often joined, 3 yards 8 nails.

In making up the cloak, the shoulder-piece is piped all round, and the skirt fulled evenly into it. The collar is then sewn on, and a casing made at the top, to admit of a ribbon. The broad hem is next laid on all round, and the sleeves put in. At the waist, the casing is sewn on inside, and the band outside, the back may be confined to the band or not, at pleasure.

INFANT’S FIRST HOOD.

PLATE 4. FIG. 26, 27, 29, 30.

This is the most approved shape for infant’s first hoods, whether they are boys or girls, owing to its warmth and softness, and also for the comfort with which an infant can rest its head on its nurse’s shoulder. They are generally made of merino, Indiana, kerseymere, satin, silk, nankeen, or indeed of any material similar to the cloak. Kerseymere, lined with silk or satin of a pale colour is particularly pretty and suitable, from its simplicity.

PLATE 5.

[Pg 41] Cut a piece along the selvage, 7 nails long, and three nails wide; double it in half its length, making it only 3½ nails. Let F A (see Fig. 27) be the doubled part, and on the opposite end, measure off one nail from C to B, and cut it off in a direct line from B to A. F D is the front of the hood. The horse-shoe crown (Fig. 26) must be cut next, for which take another piece of 2¼ nails long, down the selvage, and 2 nails wide. Fold it half the width, and slope off a third of a nail from the bottom, B to D, also round off the top. For the tippet or curtain, form a perfect circle, from a square of 8 nails, from which take out the triangular piece (see Fig. 30, A B C), the distance from B to C being 2 nails along the line. In making up the hood, cut a lining of silk or satin the same size; also one of fine flannel, wadding, or demet; then sew the crowns into the head-pieces of each of the three materials separately. The merino hood may be piped with silk or satin, braided with silk braid or worked in chain-stitch, with netting silk, round the horse-shoe crown, after which, place the flannel lining between the merino and silk, and stitch them firmly together with small neat stitches, as close to the piping or braid as possible. Next run them all together at the edges, admitting a piece of chip or thin whalebone to give a little stiffness. Two runners are made three quarters of a nail from the edge, and from each other; these runners must be of sufficient width to admit the three-penny width ribbon. These ribbons are fastened at one side of the hood, and drawn up to the proper size, and then tacked down at the other, leaving sufficient ribbon to allow of the hood being undrawn entirely, when it is wanted; another ribbon is put behind. A rosette of satin ribbon is worn on the left side, if a boy, and in front, if a girl, and a small bow behind. The curtain is sewed on plainly along the horse-shoe, but fulled from thence to the ears.

These hoods will draw out to last a child twelve months after its birth, and will clean well, when of merino.

For children’s hats and bonnets, see Plate 19.

COVER FOR A
BASSINETTE.

PLATE 5. FIG. 1, 2, 3, 4.

A bassinette (see Fig. 4) is a very small cradle made of wicker-work, about 3 feet long, 18 inches wide, and 15 inches high. It is very useful for carrying about, and may be set upon a table, sofa, or bed, taken in a carriage, or even upon the lap with little inconvenience. For a delicate child, and in the winter, it is very desirable, being much warmer than a larger cradle.

Bassinettes are fitted up with a coloured lining under a thin dimity or muslin covering. The lining is sometimes made of white, blue or pink satin or silk, but more generally, and more sensibly, of glazed calico. It should be put on the outside of the wicker-work, and also very neatly fulled in regular folds inside it. The cover is made about half a yard deep down the selvage, and 4½ yards wide. When all the breadths are sewed together, a deep hem is made at the top, with a runner for a string (the hem and runner together to be about 1 nail). If the material is thick, it is better to sew to it, quite plainly, a deep frill, of a finer texture, to give it lightness, instead of having the frill made of the same; through the runner pass a tape, which will draw it all round to the proper size, to fit the body of the cradle; a second hem at the bottom will also be required for the same purpose (see Plate 5, Fig. 1). The head-piece, Fig. 2, is made, so that when drawn up, it will fit the head of the bassinette. Cut a piece of ½ a yard down the selvage, and 1 yard 2 nails in width. As there must be no seam in the width, if the material be not wide enough, it would be better to cut the width down the selvage-way instead. It must be doubled in half the width (the 1 yard 2 nails), see Fig. 2, and sloped [Pg 42] off from B to C in a very gradual curve, the space from A to B is 3 nails. Hem each of the two straight sides, and make a runner from B to C for a tape. Next full the straight part, D A, to the exact size round the front of the head; let the fulling lie towards the middle, and when ready, sew on the double frill, which is made of fine clear muslin. The frill, Fig. 3, is cut in strips width-way, of 3 nails each; sew these strips together till you have about 4 yards length of frilling; make a narrow hem on each side of the frill, and then begin to put it upon the front, or fulled part of the head-piece; for this purpose, double the frilling exactly in half, and while thus doubled, allow from the centre ¼ of a nail for the frilling, and make another even crease all along. Open the frills, and turning down at the one side, begin to run; and, dividing it, of course, into quarters, gather it evenly; when done, sew it firmly to the cover, at within ¼ of a nail from the edge; after which, turn down the other outer crease at the proper distance from the centre of the frill, and do the same with it; when ready, sew it on to the edge itself of the head-piece. This frilling should stand up well, and not he flat against the cover; for this end, not quite so much as ¼of a nail should be allowed between the two seams. A ribbon the same colour as the lining runs through the puffing, and fastens the cover on in front, while the tape or ribbon, through the other runner, ties it at the bottom of the head, and draws it up to the right size.

CRADLE COVER.

PLATE 5. FIG. 5, 6, 7, 8.

A cradle merely requires a little drapery over the head, to form curtains, in order to guard the infant from the sun, or from draughts of air, while asleep, and to give an air of comfort and cleanliness.

The drapery should always be perfectly white, of dimity, twilled muslin, or other neat strong material. Some ladies put covers of thin muslin over a coloured lining, but nothing looks so well as perfectly white curtains. The dimity, &c. should be about 1 yard wide; take two breadths of the proper length from the head of the cradle to the floor, about 14 nails, pin them evenly together, and sew up the seam from A to B (Fig. 5), about the distance of ½ a yard, but this must be determined by the cradle, observing to sew up until it begins to curve. As the curve must be cut while the material is fitted on the cradle itself, the dimity should be pinned along the bottom of the cradle from A to E, and also from A to B at the back. Then fit it accurately by pinning the breadths exactly, though easily together, along the curve, allowing enough for shrinking in washing, and when nicely fitted on, cut off the superfluous part and stitch it along, while on the cradle; the rough edges may afterwards be turned over, and hemmed down. The remainder of the dimity in front, is intended to hang over the cradle top, to form little curtains; hem round each side, and connect them together with small stitches, by running a cord up one hem, and down the other (Fig. 5, C D), the piece is drawn up to a small compass. This drawn up piece will require a bow or rosette of muslin (see Fig. 8); the whole piece may be trimmed with fringe, or turned up with a piping, which, if the cover be lined with glazed coloured calico, should be of the same. A loop of cord should come from underneath, and encircle the rosette (see Fig. 8).

For noblemen’s families, these covers are sometimes edged with silk fringe, or turned up with silk or satin, to accord with a lining of the same.

CRIB COVERS.

PLATE 5. FIG. 16.

These are generally made with a horse-shoe back, reaching from the top to the bottom of the crib; it is piped all round, and a piece of the proper width to go from side to side over the hoops is cut selvage-way, and either sewn plainly or fulled on to the horse-shoe back. This piece [Pg 43] may either be finished in front like that over the cradle head, by drawing it up, and thus forming curtains; or two half-breadths may be fulled evenly round to this head-piece. Crib covers are frequently lined with blue or other coloured calico, which is sometimes made larger than the cover, to admit of being turned up so as to form a little border outside.

INFANT’S HANGING COT.

PLATE 5. FIG. 9.

This is a convenient shape, as it easily takes to pieces when not in use. The sides are either made entirely of wood, when no drapery is necessary; but they are usually merely frames to which ticking or any other material is fixed.

If it is furnished with ticking, it is laid on plain, though almost any other material, which will not wash is laid in plaits or fulled. The material is bound all round, and nailed on at the inner side, after which, an inside lining of glazed calico, or other material is put.

If the material is a washing one, glazed calico, chintz, twill, or white dimity is used; and this last is particularly neat and nice, and in the country might be made to keep clean a long time; the pieces should be fulled into some strong binding, to which very small loops might be sewn, large enough to admit of the nail to confine it firmly to the crib, so that when the covering is removed for washing, the loops alone are torn by the nails, and they can be easily replaced. The head drapery is similar to that of Fig. 16. Cotton fringe and gimp set all round, both above and below, gives a pretty finish to the whole. The ropes of the cots should be often looked to, and frequently renewed, as they wear out quickly, and the child’s safety depends on their strength.

THE TRAVELLING COT.

PLATE 5. FIG. 10,11,12, 13.

This is a most convenient crib for mothers to use when travelling with young children, as it is extremely light, and can be put up in two minutes, and if kept in a leathern case, with straps (see Fig. 10), it can easily be attached to the roof, or below a carriage, and be perfectly free from damp.

The stand (see Fig. 13) is made of strong beech-wood, and when taken to pieces, is in seven parts. The upright posts are fastened together two by two, by the short bits of wood, A and B, which are screwed tight into the legs by long iron screws, with brass heads. The long bar, C D, connects the two sides together also, by means of screws. These screws should be attached to the posts or bars they belong to, by a string, as the loss of one would render the crib unsafe. The lower parts of the four posts are much thicker than the upper, to give support to the crib. This is formed of five pieces of wicker-work (see Fig. 11), the bottom and four sides. The four sides are fastened firmly to the bottom, allowing, however, ample room to give full play for the sides to fold backwards or forwards. At each extreme corner is fastened a ring of iron, brass, or strong wicker-work. These rings are so placed, that when the sides are turned up to form the crib, the two rings at each corner shall slip over the top of each post of the stand, by which means all will remain firm.

The wicker crib should be 4 feet long, 2 feet 6 inches wide, and 15 inches deep. The one narrow end might be made deeper to give more protection to the head; and one or two hoops might be put into a ring or staple at the sides of the wicker-work, by which means a head-piece is easily made.

The stand posts should be 30 inches high, letting from E to G be 13 inches, from G to H, 7 inches, and from H to J be 10 inches.

The head drapery might be made similar to Fig. 15. The lining should be very simple and easily put on; also very warm, on account of the open [Pg 44] wicker-work sides. Wadding or flannel should be quilted well over, between two folds of Holland, coloured glazed calico, or chintz, and made to tie on inside. This lining should be very thin, else it will take room in packing. When the crib is packed up, the posts are unscrewed, and the basket is folded with the sides inwards, so as to require as small a case as possible. A pillow from any bed is all that would be required, as bedding for the crib.

A child’s cradle or crib contains the following articles:—

Some ladies have their mattresses filled with finely cut chaff, others with sea-weed or with beech leaves. Chaff keeps particularly dry, and is cool and pleasant to lie on in the summer.

BABY’S BASKET.

PLATE 5. FIG. 31.

A baby’s basket should be lined either with the finest dimity or cambric muslin; in the latter case, an inner lining of coloured glazed calico or silk is often added. The cover should be very full—about three times the length round the basket, or more. After cutting the strips width-way, and sewing together sufficient to form the length required, make a small hem or runner along one side; after which, another is made about ½ a nail or more from it, according to the exact width of the ledge at the top of the basket. Upon the outer of these two runners is sewed a double frill, and between this and the inner runner, slits are cut in the proper places to admit the four handles, which are neatly hemmed round. At the bottom, on the other side of the strip, there is also a runner, through which a cord is drawn. A piece of the dimity is next fitted to the bottom of the basket, after which, the strip that goes round it being drawn up evenly, it is sewed on very neatly and firmly to the bottom piece. To the four corner strings are sewed, which being passed through the straw work of the basket, tie the cover firmly down to it.

The strings for the top are put in as follows:—four long pieces of cord are cut off, about 1½-yard each; they are doubled in two, so that one end is only a ¼ of a yard long: these cords are sewed firmly in the runner, each to the one side of each of the four handles, letting the short end of the cord be drawn through the runner at that shortest side next the corner, while the long cord has to be drawn past the handle and along to the furthest corner, where, on meeting the short end of another cord, it is tied firmly under the ledge of the basket. Of course these cords cannot be run in until the covering is actually upon the basket.

It may not be considered as out of place here, to state the usual contents of a basket, when prepared for an infant at its birth. [Pg 45]

At the bottom, after putting in the bottle, with its leather or parchment suck, the other things are placed in the following order:—

The large flannel shawl, the calico bed-gown, night-flannel, night-cap, shirt, napkins, flannel cap and band, soft towels, sponge, hair brush, powder-bag, or box. Quite at the top are the receiver, the pincushion, with large and small pins, large pair of scissors, and a ball of strong thread or fine twine.

THE PINCUSHION.

PLATE 5. FIG. 17.

One kind, out of the numerous sorts known to every body, is alone mentioned here, as being the best, on account of its steadiness and the depth, which renders it safer, should it chance to get into the hands of a young child.

It is rather longer than it is broad, being about 7 nails by 6 nails, and nearly 3 nails deep. This will hold the largest pins without danger of their pricking through to the other side. The top and bottom should be made alike, with a frill all round, as seen in the Plate. These pincushions are sometimes made of muslin over satin or silk, but, if intended to be useful, white dimity is by far the best.

THE LEATHER SUCK
FOR BOTTLES.

PLATE 5. FIG. 15.

As most of the articles used by infants have been entered upon in turn, it is considered advisable to mention also the mode of making and fastening on the leather or parchment suck to the bottle. The suck is cut in the shape of the figure, so that when doubled down the middle, it resembles the upper part of the thumb of a glove. The two sides and the top are either joined together in the button-hole stitch or back-stitch; and if the latter, the suck must be turned inside out, that the smooth side may come in contact with the infant’s mouth. If mothers follow the rather dangerous practice of putting a bit of sponge inside the suck, it should be first well tied round and fastened to the nose of the bottle, and the string brought round the ledge of the hole (see Fig. 15), and brought again to the nose of the bottle and fastened. The sucks are merely fastened on by a strong thread wound round the nose.

LINING FOR CHAIRS.

PLATE 5. FIG. 30.

These little chairs, without legs, which are so useful to set upon the table or floor, for those children to sit in who cannot support themselves safely, should be softly lined throughout. A piece of flannel and wadding, cut to fit the chair, should be quilted together with the material the chair is to be covered with, either Holland, chintz, or calico. The whole should be very neatly bound, and then sewn or tacked on to the chair. A little cushion, stuffed with bran or horse-hair, should be put for the seat. These chairs should have sticks, with large knobs to screw on at each end. They should also be made with the sides or arms to lay flat, or turn up and fasten at pleasure, as they can, when flat, be easily packed in a trunk or laid [Pg 46] under the carriage seats; and these comforts, when travelling, are well worth attending to. These little chairs, when the child can walk, come in nicely for swings, when, of course, the sides require lacing up firmly. For the baby’s night-chair should be made a flannel cushion to sit upon. Three or four doubles of flannel, cut to the size of the seat, with a hole stitched round in the centre, and run over in diamonds, is both neat and serviceable.

A child’s travelling night-stool is so great a convenience in the carriage, during long journeys, that it is here mentioned, though there is little to be said as to its fitting up. The lid should be covered with cloth, stuffed well with horse-hair or wool, to make it soft as a seat. This cloth should be nailed all round with smooth brass-headed nails. The lid should open with a spring, and the seat inside be covered with soft quilted flannel or Indian rubber cloth. The pan, which is of block-tin or crockery, should have a lid made to fit it tightly. These little stools should be about 9 inches high, and 10 inches square.

PLATE 6.

Shifts are generally made of fine Irish linen or calico, for the upper classes, and of stout linen, or strong but soft calico for poor children.

Shifts are cut out differently, according to the width of the cloth. If it is wide, the shift takes 2 breadths in the skirt, and gores are cut off from the top to sew on the bottom to widen the skirt.

If the cloth is still wider, so as to admit of only 1½ breadth in the shift, or else very narrow, so that 2 breadths are barely sufficient, the shift is crossed. The tops vary, as do also the shapes of the sleeves. The following are those generally worn.

PLATE 6.

[Pg 47] In goring a shift, the 2 breadths may be cut in one length, to prevent a seam on the shoulder. Fold your piece of cloth in two, and pin the sides very accurately together, or with long stitches tack them up the selvages. Next double the shift in half its length, from A to B, and put in pins to mark the crease in the middle, C C. Unfold the shift and double it again very carefully the width-way, so as to let the four selvages lie very evenly one upon another. Measure from the top, B, the space, B D, to be cut off, crease the linen in a straight line, from D to C, and cut it carefully off through the four thicknesses of cloth. The gores thus cut from off the top are reversed and sewed on to the bottom, to widen the skirt. The dotted lines in the Plate shew the width of the cloth, and the dark clear lines are intended to represent the shape of the shift. When the gores are sewed in, shifts are generally hollowed out at the back, and may either be also hollowed in front or have a flap cut, as seen in Fig. 2. The hollowing at the back is not so deep as in the front, therefore, great care must be taken in cutting the one not to injure the shape of the other; and in order to insure the two halves of each side being cut to correspond, it is advisable to cut the shape of the parts to be hollowed out in paper, to lay the paper on the linen, and cut by it. When the breadths are cut separately, as in some cases they must be, the seams on the shoulders should be sewed previously to the parts behind and before being hollowed. If the flap in front is preferred, it may either be cut straight down, as in Fig. 2, or in a slanting direction, as the shoulder in Fig. 6. This last plan is usually followed, and a button-hole is worked near the front of the shoulder-strap, which, being folded over to a button sewed on the shoulder-strap of the stays, neatly confines all straps, &c., in the fold.

There is another mode of cutting out the top of a shift, and, from its simplicity and economy, is preferable to any other. The shoulder-straps are cut separately from the skirt, which is, consequently, cut shorter, and is made quite straight at the top. The shift, after being gored or crossed, has little bosom gores put in front. The top is then hemmed, both before and behind, and the straps put on. A neat frill may be added, to give a finish to the whole.

The sleeves are sometimes cut out of the width of one of the breadths of the skirt, when the material is a little too wide; but unless you have linen of an awkward width by you, it is a wasteful plan, as the strip thus cut off is generally twice as long as the quantity required for the sleeves. Observe, if this plan be adopted, to cut off the length for the sleeves all in one piece, and not length by length from each separate breadth, as much waste would arise from so doing. If the sleeves are to be made as in Fig. 2, they may be cut in one length, sleeve and gusset together, down the selvage (see Fig. 17, 18, 19), and so many lengths in the width of the cloth. If they are to be made according to Fig. 6, an extra nail in length must be allowed for the [Pg 48] plaiting. The gussets are reduced in size, according to the Scale, and a band to gather the sleeve into, at the bottom, is neatly stitched.

CROSSED SHIFTS.

PLATE 6. FIG. 3, 4, 5.

Before crossing a shift, sew the 2 breadths or the 1½ breadth, whichever it happens to be, together, and next, after flattening the seams with your thumb nail, crease the skirt, so that these two seams shall lie exactly one upon the other, and tack or pin them firmly together; or, to give a neater effect, the seams are brought, one in front and the other behind, so as to divide it in exact thirds. Fig. 4 represents the skirt when sewn up, A A being intended for the seam. Measure off 1¼ nails at the left hand of the top B D, and on the right hand of the bottom B D of the skirt, and double it from D to D, as in Fig. 5; and that you may be sure your measurements are accurate, it is better to double it again upwards, at X and Y, so that B D at the bottom, should lie upon B D at the top, and the corner C upon C, as in Fig. 3. If they do not exactly correspond, the shift is not correctly folded. After pressing these creases with the hand, unfold C from C, as it was before (see Fig. 5), and cut evenly from D to D. The skirt must then be turned. The two wide ends are for the bottom—the two narrow ones for the top of the shift.

It is made up as follows:—After sewing and felling the seams, and hemming the bottom, the hem at the top must be turned down, as if for hemming, and then turned back again and sewed all round, which is much stronger than a common hem. The sleeves are generally set in plainly, excepting, of course, in those intended to be full, as in Fig. 6.

CHILD’S SHIFT.

PLATE 6. FIG. 9, 10, 11.

This is a particularly neat pattern for a child from five years up to any age, and is generally the first shift used after leaving off the little shirt which is seen in the baby-linen.

As these shifts consist of 1½ breadth of 9 yards long, an even number, as 2, 4, or 6, should be cut out at the same time to prevent waste. [Pg 49]

Two gores, of 2¼ nails at the top, and ¾ of a nail at the bottom, are cut off the whole breadth (see Fig. 9), which reduces the body to 8 nails at the top, and 11 at the bottom, which is the proper width of the shift. These gores are sewn on to the half-breadth, which makes it exactly correspond with the other side. After sewing the two halves together, leaving 2¾ nails from the top for the arm-holes, cut down the slits for the bosom flaps 2 nails deep, leaving 1½ nail space for the shoulders. Next, cut out the sleeve flaps (see Fig. 11) of 1¼ nail deep, and 3 nails long, and, after hemming them all round, sew them with firm small stitches to the shoulder. At the edge, B, sew on a piece of tape, in which make a button-hole, which buttons over the shoulder to the button, K, and confines all straps, as seen in the sleeve marked A, in Fig. 11, where the flap is represented as turned back over the shoulder, as it is when worn; whereas in the sleeve, marked B, the flap is unturned. The sleeves are hemmed all round, and then one end is turned up to form the gusset, to one side of which the other end of the sleeve is sewn, as in Fig. 17, 18, 19; they are then put plainly into the arm-hole, which must be previously hemmed.

The lining is put in last, and is turned down once a deep fold, all round. It is neatly felled inside to the shift. The lining is 7 nails long, and 1⅓ nail wide. It is sewn in a little below the arm-hole, and carried over the shoulder to the corresponding place on the other side of the shift. Strings are sewn to the points of the flaps, both before and behind. Children’s sleeves are sometimes fulled on the shoulder. The work should be close and strong. The flaps are sometimes made of fine lawn, edged with a cambric frill or worked muslin, and allowed to lie over the shoulder, outside the dress, which has a clean and neat appearance.

A SECRET WORTH KNOWING.

HOW TO SAVE ONE SEAM AND TWO FELLS
IN MAKING UP TWO SHIFTS.
PLATE 6. FIG. 12, 13, 14, 15.

This is a useful hint for those who make up much linen at home. It is done as follows:—

Take 3 breadths of the wide-width cloth, and sew them all together like a bag; then lay two of the seams very exactly one upon the other, and either pin or tack them firmly together; fold the whole piece in half, width-wise, so as to have four thicknesses of linen lying upon one another. Cross it like a common shift, Fig. 15, measuring it top and bottom to see if it is even, and it will cut into four pieces, one of which, Fig. 12, will have no seam at all; one, Fig. 13, will have a [Pg 50] straight seam down the middle; the other two, Fig. 14, have each a piece like a gore on one side. These shifts, when neatly made, are just as serviceable and as good as those cut in the usual way, and it saves a great deal of work.

PLATE 6. FIG. 8, 16.

This is a pretty variety of sleeve, and is most suitable for young children. It is intended to fall over the frock. Fig. 8 represents the shape of the sleeve when cut out, and Fig. 16 when it is finished. The sleeve is cut all in one piece, taking care that the slope of the flap, C, when turned back, corresponds with the slope of the sleeve, D. The sleeve and flap are frilled with cambric, work, or lace. The advantage of this shape is, that both sleeve and flap are in one.

TROWSERS OR DRAWERS.

PLATE 7.

These are worn by men, women, and children of all classes, and almost all ages, under the different names of trowsers and drawers. They are made in a great variety of ways. Those mentioned here are the kinds most generally approved. Drawers for ladies and children are usually made of calico, twill, and cambric muslin. Those ladies who are invalids, or who ride much, frequently wear flannel or wash-leather drawers, with or without white calico leglets. For men, drawers are composed of very strong twill, calico, linen, flannel, and stockinet.

CHILD’S TROWSERS.

PLATE 7. FIG. 1, 2.

This is a child’s first pair of trowsers, and should be made of fine twill or calico. Each leg is cut in one piece, and, when folded, is 4½ nails wide; therefore, to prevent waste, the material should be 9 nails in width.

Cut off the 2 breadths for the two legs, of the proper length, and observe the following directions:—

Slope off from A to C, and cut from A to B, taking off ½ a nail from the width at the top.

In making, sew up the legs and join them at the seam in front, leaving them open behind, with a broad hem on each side, formed by laying a strip of the same material at each end, which is run at the edge on the wrong side, turned over to hide the stitches, and hemmed or back-stitched near the edge. The legs are then tucked, and the work or frill sewn on. The whole is next set into a band, ¾ of a nail deep when doubled, and 5 nails long, which buttons behind. Shoulder-straps, with button-holes, are attached to the trowsers by means of buttons before and behind. This plan is far more convenient than that of sewing on the straps, as, when they are only buttoned on, if it is necessary to change the trowsers in the course of the day, they may be simply unbuttoned without undressing the child, and the clean trowsers fastened to the shoulder-straps, which still remain over the shoulder.

PLATE 7.

[Pg 51]

A CHILD’S LARGER
TROWSERS.

PLATE 7. FIG. 3, 4.

This resembles Fig. 1 and 2 in every respect, excepting that the top is sloped or hollowed at the back.

Procure your material 10½ nails wide, to admit exactly of one leg being cut in the width.

Slope from G to E, and again from E to C, through A; after which, cut at the top of one fold from A to B, and of the other from B to C. Take care to cut the pair to match, so that the outer, or hollowed parts of the legs should rise, the one towards the right, and the other towards the left side. These are made up in a similar manner to Fig. 1.

GIRL’S TROWSERS.

PLATE 7. FIG. 5, 6.

Each leg of these trowsers is also made in the entire breadth.

Procure your material 10 nails broad.

Cut each breadth 8 nails long, not including the tucks, which, if they are deep, will add about 2 nails more. Supposing it but 8 nails long, cut as follows, after folding the breadth in half its width.

Slope from E to G. Cut in a straight line from G, past C, to H. Cut one fold from C to B, and the other from H to B.

If the tucks require 2 nails length in addition to the above size, continue the width of the legs, the same as from C to E (3 nails), to the end.

In making up, sew the trowsers up before and behind, and cut two slits, one on each side, to the depth of 3 nails. These slits have broad hems laid on all round them; to form which, cut two strips of 4½ nails long, and 2 nails broad; split each length down the middle, to within 1½ nail from the end (see Fig. 2). This strap is laid close to the edge and run all round the two sides of the slit, turned over, and hemmed down. This false hem greatly strengthens these slits. [Pg 52]

The whole is then set into two bands, one for the front, and the other for the back of the trowsers. These bands are 5½ nails long, and ¾ of a nail wide, when doubled. A button-hole is strongly worked, in a slanting direction, at each corner of the bands, by which they are fastened to two buttons sewed upon the stays.

TROWSERS FOR A
BOY OR GIRL.

PLATE 7. FIG. 7, 8, 9.

This is a pretty body and trowsers, and is very suitable to little boys, especially if they are at all delicate, being particularly warm.

The body is composed of one middle piece, 6 nails long, and two side pieces, 3½ nails long each. They are 2½ nails deep, and, when sewed together, the middle is hollowed so as to make it only 2¼ nails.

The trowsers are made as follows:—

• Width of material, 12 nails.
• Length of each breadth, 11½ nails.
• Fold each breadth in two (see Fig. 8).

Slope from H to B; also from H, past F, to G, at the top of the breadth, whence it is cut to E, for the hollowed fold, while the under one is cut straight from E to F.

This trowser opens at the side; there is also a small opening in front (see K, Fig. 7). The body is hemmed all round, and sewed on plainly to the front band of the trowser, but it is left loose, as in Fig. 7, beyond the arm-holes on each side. The two bands button to each other at the sides, the body ties behind, and may, or may not be fastened also to the band of the trowsers at each side, having button-holes to correspond with the buttons. A little pocket should be sewed inside the slit down the sides, as in Fig. 9, where it is represented as if drawn out, or turned inside out.

LEGLETS.

PLATE 7. FIG. 10.

These are useful to put over the legs of children’s trowsers, when they are soiled or tumbled, before it is necessary to put on an entirely clean pair. They are usually made of some finer material than the trowser itself, and look well for an evening, when they are of fine cambric muslin, with open work, or small tucks. They are fastened by three or four buttons and button-holes or loops, the buttons being sewed to the trowsers. Sometimes the trowser itself only reaches to the knee, and leglets are always attached to it, by means of small buttons; they should be put on pretty closely, to make the leglets fit well, say six or eight on each leg; button-holes are made to correspond in the leglets. They are especially advantageous for children who play a great deal out of doors, or who live in a town, they will sometimes soil one or two pair in a day. [Pg 53]

WOMEN’S DRAWERS.

PLATE 7. FIG. 11, 12.

These are formed of two separate legs sewed into a band, which is made to button before or behind, at pleasure. For a moderate size, Fig. 12 will be a good guide.

Width of material, 14 nails.

Length of each breadth, 15 nails.

Fold each breadth in half its width, letting D be the doubled part, and measure as follows:—

Cut in a straight line from S to G; cut also from E to Z, the point Z being within ½ a nail from the side. Hem the bottoms of the legs, after sewing up the seams, and hem round the slits, or open part; set them into the band, making them overlap each other (see Fig. 11). The band is 11 nails long, and 3 nails wide.

ANOTHER SHAPE.

PLATE 7. FIG. 13, 14.

Some persons, both ladies and children, wear bodies attached to their drawers, as in the figure, which represents a child’s size.

Procure your material 10½ nails wide.

Cut each breadth 9 nails long.

Let D be the doubled part, and mark as follows:—(Fig. 14.)

Cut from G to H, H being 4½ nails from the doubled side.

Cut from H to C.

Let the body be 2½ nails deep, and 10 nails long, fold it in four, cut out the arm-holes, and sew on the shoulder-straps.

In making up the trowsers, sew the legs together in front, after they have been run up, leaving them open behind, and laying on a broad tape (see T T, Fig. 13), sew on the body, and it is completed. [Pg 54]

TURKISH TROWSERS.

PLATE 7. FIG. 15, 16.

These Turkish or full trowsers are often worn by little girls.

Procure your material 10 nails wide, to admit one leg exactly in the breadth.

Cut each breadth the proper length, say 9 nails long.

Fold each breadth in half, letting D be the doubled part (Fig. 16.)

Cut one fold from E to F, and the other from E to G. Cut from G to C in a straight line.

In making, sew up from B to C, and either gather the bottom, A B, into a band, to which a frill is set on, or else make a deep hem to admit of a ribbon, which draws it up to the proper size, and ties in a bow. To this hem is sewed a broad frill or handsome piece of work. The latter is the most convenient plan of the two for the washerwoman, as the leg will lie quite flatly to be ironed.

TROWSERS FOR A
LITTLE BOY.

PLATE 7. FIG. 17, 18, 19.

This is a particularly good pattern, and very suitable for a boy.

Procure your material 10 nails wide, to admit of one leg in the breadth.

Cut each breadth 7½ nails long.

Double the leg so as to leave 2 nails unfolded, or rather, fold it to within two nails of the selvage. Let D, Fig. 19, be the doubled part. From A to B is 2 nails, and is not double. From B to C is 4 nails, the one fold being cut in a slight curve from B to C, and in a sweep from A to C. The bottom of the leg is 3 nails wide. Slope from G to C, G being nearly 2 nails from the bottom.

The body is 10 nails long, and 2½ nails deep; fold it in four, and cut out the arm-holes (see Fig. 18).

In making, sew up each leg from K to G, and hem round every other part; next, make the body, hemming it all round, after which, sew the legs firmly to the body, making the flap, A L C, of one leg, overlap or lie across the flap of the other leg. These two flaps, after being firmly set into the band, are farther secured by back-stitching them together along the dotted line. Fig. 17.

MEN’S DRAWERS.

PLATE 7. FIG. 20, 21, 22.

These are men’s strong drawers, made of coarse twill or calico.

Procure your material 14 nails wide.

Cut each breadth 13 nails long.

Fold the breadths in half, letting D, Fig. 20, be the doubled part. The drawers are quite straight at the top, the piece, C H F, being an extra bit put in (see Fig. 20).

PLATE 8.

[Pg 55]

Cut from G to B, and one fold from G to E; the other is from G to F.

A triangular piece is put in at the top of the back, of 3 nails in continuation from F to H.

The pair of drawers has two bands of about 7 nails long each, and 1½ nail deep, when doubled.

In making, sew up the legs, and put on the extra piece at the back. Sew the two legs together at the back, and hem the slit on each side in front. Set each leg into a separate band, leaving them open before and behind. Work four little oylet-holes in the band behind, to admit tapes, which are laced through them and tie; in front, metal buttons are put, and button-holes made. Down each leg, in the front, a broad tape or piece of strong calico is laid, to strengthen it. A slit of about 2 nails long is made at the bottom of each leg. Broad tape is laid on round each leg at the bottom, forming a sort of hem, and oylet holes are worked on each side of the slit, for tape to come out at, which draws them to the proper size.

Fig. 20 represents the back of the drawers cut out.

Fig. 21 represents the back of the drawers made up.

Fig. 22 represents the front of the drawers made up.

WOMAN’S NIGHT-JACKET.

PLATE 8. FIG. 1, 2, 3.

Night jackets for the higher classes are made of linen, lawn, cambric muslin, and fine calico; also of dimity and twilled calico; and for the lower orders, of linen or calico. The calico should be soft and [Pg 56] strong; and the unbleached or grey calico, as it is usually called by Linen Drapers, is warmer and often more durable than the white.

Fig. 1 represents the plan or picture of a piece of cloth of the proper width, on which all the parts for forming a woman’s jacket are accurately marked, with the exception of the shoulder-straps, which, as they do not fit in, might be made of any extra bits.

Cut out the two breadths of the skirt in one length, to avoid a seam on the shoulder. Fold it very exactly in half, and, after leaving 3 nails at each end of the folded side, to allow for the shoulders, slit open the neck from A to G, after which, measure carefully and find the middle of the neck, C, and slit it down to the bottom, D, to form the opening in front of the jacket.

The sleeves, which are 10 nails long, and the two cut in the width, are either sloped off towards the wrist, fulled into a wristband, as in Fig. 10, or else neatly run, at a sufficient distance from the edge, to form a kind of frill (Fig. 9). This running is done in two rows, extended nearly all round the cuff, and neatly stretched upon a piece of tape, which is laid inside, and carried all round the cuff.

Fig. 3 represents a plan for cutting out twelve jackets, which is the most economical number, cut out at once, to avoid waste. The pieces in the Plate are marked with the initial letter for their use, and the width of the piece, thus, S 7, signifies sleeve 7 nails wide. On the left hand of the plan is marked the length of each piece, and on the right hand is set down the number of those lengths required to be cut to form the set complete, thus, 12 L means 12 lengths. The frills are generally of fine lawn or cambric, or else corded, jaconet, checked, or other muslins.

NIGHT-GOWN.

PLATE 8. FIG. 5.

This shape is not so much worn as that of Fig. 4, nor perhaps has it so neat and finished an appearance, but on many accounts it is the most desirable, being in the first place, more economical; it also washes more easily, and above all, is particularly convenient in time of sickness, when it is very essential to a weak or suffering person to be able to draw open the gown at the neck and wrists, so as to have full [Pg 57] play for the arms in changing her linen, or having blisters, leeches, &c. applied; whereas those night dresses confined at the neck in collars are very irksome, and cause much unnecessary suffering in being removed. The scale and plans so clearly explain the size, shape, &c. that nothing remains to be said, except that a band is sometimes worn round the waist, with a narrow frill sewn round the ends, which are sloped off, according to fancy.

It is better economy to cut three or six gowns together, as the gussets, binders, &c. take about the third of a breadth, so that in cutting out one, there is an unavoidable waste of the other two-thirds of a breadth. The two sleeves cut in the width, and are, for the largest size, 9 nails long.

ANOTHER NIGHT GOWN.

PLATE 8. FIG. 4.

It is more economical to buy your material of a sufficient width to merely gore it, if only one gown is to be cut out.

It is better to cross the skirt, and use 1½ breadth of very wide material, if six are to be cut.

[Pg 58] All the other parts are the same as in the scale for the crossed gown.

In cutting out six crossed gowns, tear off the 9 breadths for the skirts, allowing 1½ breadth to each; after which, cut off the 6 lengths (9 nails long each) for the sleeves; two sleeves cut in the width. Next cut off a piece 10 nails long, which divide width-way into twelve binders of 1½ nail wide each. Afterwards, cut off another breadth of 8 nails long, to divide width-way into six collars of 4 nails width. The gussets will require two breadths of 3 nails deep, to be divided width-way also, in six of 3 nails width.

The wristbands are 4 nails long; and as only nine of 2 nails width can be cut in 1 breadth, the remaining three must be cut off a second breadth, which will leave sufficient cloth over, exactly to cut the 12 neck-gussets, in two rows deep of 2 nails square. By this arrangement, no waste whatever is made.

The one gored gown is cut according to the scale; Fig. 8 is a bosom-bit, which adds much to the strength of the slit. It is impossible to cut out one of these gowns alone, without a little waste.

PLATE 8. FIG. 6.

This is an exceedingly neat looking night-dress, and for full size is cut according to the following dimensions. Cut two breadths of 1 yard wide, and 1½ yard long each, and sew up the seams, leaving 3 nails from the top for arm-holes. Cut out two shoulder-pieces according to Fig. 7, which represents half, the letter D being the doubled part. If it is made of calico, put a neat piping round the one shoulder-piece, as it materially strengthens the night-dress; and after fulling the skirt evenly round to the other, and setting in the sleeves, lay the upper shoulder-piece over the lower one. Pipe and frill it up the neck, and if preferred, a collar may be added, with a second frill above. If the night-dress is made of linen, it must be neatly stitched instead of piped. The sleeves are 8 nails square, and the wristband, as in Fig. 11, 4 nails square, to which a frill is added.

FLANNEL WAISTCOAT
FOR A LADY.

PLATE 8. FIG. 12.

Cut a piece of flannel 12 nails wide, and 7 nails deep; fold it in two, and at 2 full nails from the middle or doubled part, cut the arm-holes, which are 2 full nails wide, and 1¼ nail deep, leaving 2 nails for half the back; hollow the front half a nail. At the bottom of the waistcoat, immediately under the arm-holes, cut a slit upwards to the distance of 3 nails, and put into these slits, gores of 3 nails wide at the bottom, sloped off to a point, being 3 nails long. These gores are differently cut to most others, being sloped equally on both sides, instead of having one side straight, so that the point is in a straight line with the middle of the gore at the bottom (see Fig. 12).

Cut two other slits to admit of bosom gores of similar shape, but smaller size, being 1¾ nail broad, and 1¾ nail long. They are put in 1 nail from the shoulder-strap.

In making up, herring-bone all round the waistcoat; the slits and gores, and the seams also, are herring-boned with strong thread, the seams being turned flatly back, and laid side by side on the finger, so that the one row of herring-boning shall join the two compactly together (see Fig. 15). Some persons lay a broad tape, say a nail wide, down the front, on which the buttons are sewed, and button-holes worked. Tape shoulder-straps complete the whole. This waistcoat buttons in the front.

A BOY’S WAISTCOAT.

PLATE 8. FIG. 13, 14.

The following size is suitable for a child of 12 years old:—

The waistcoat is made in three parts; the middle piece should be 7 [Pg 59] nails wide, and 6½ nails deep; the side-pieces must be the same depth, and 5 nails wide. Sew up the seams, and fold the waistcoat in four, like a pinafore, then cut out the arm-holes, which, while thus doubled, are 1½ nail in width, and the same in depth; the waistcoat is then opened, and hollowed out in the front (see Fig. 13).

In making up, tape is sewed all round the edge, at the inside, and broad tapes down the sides, in which the button-holes are cut. Straps are sewed on, and the whole is finished.

A WAISTCOAT
FOR AN INVALID BOY
OF THE WORKING CLASS.

PLATE 8. FIG. 16.

Take a breadth and a half of flannel, each 9 nails long, and sew them together, leaving them open in the front. Fold the waistcoat in four, and cut the shoulders, and slits for the arm-holes, as in a pinafore; the shoulders are 1½ nail deep, and the arm-holes 2½ nails long. Hollow it a little at the top, and after sewing up the shoulders, gather it at the top into a tape the proper length (say 5 nails). Put in sleeves without gussets, which are 7 nails long, and 4 nails wide before being sewed up; hem the fronts, and lay on a broad tape at the inside of the hem, in which the button-holes are made; herring-bone the bottom and sleeves.

A MAN’S UNDER WAISTCOAT.

PLATE 8. FIG. 17, 18.

This is generally made of fine calico, and is cut out according to the Plate.

For the back (Fig. 17), cut your paper pattern 9 nails long, and 7 nails wide: double it in half its width, and, as in the Plate, letting D be the doubled part, mark as follows:—

Curve from A to B, and from A through C to E.

The front is cut as follows:—Let your pattern be 11 nails long, and 8 nails wide (see Plate 8, Fig. 18).

The arm-hole is sloped, and is rather difficult to manage, but by looking at the Plate, and following the directions, as nearly as possible, the same shape may be attained. [Pg 60]

Curve from R to the bottom, also from D to B, and cut out the arm-hole.

In making up, sew the pieces together, lay on a broad piece of calico all down the front, lay a tape round the neck, and set on your buttons down the front, with button-holes to correspond.

This shape, but varying of course in size, will do for boys of all ages.

BOY’S VEST OR
UPPER WAISTCOAT.

PLATE 8. FIG. 19, 20.

This is made of cloth, jean, or nankeen. The size here given, would suit a boy ten or eleven years old.

The vest is in three parts, viz.—one back and two fronts. To cut out the front (Fig. 19), let your paper pattern be 3½ nails wide, by 4¼ nails long.

Curve in for the arm-hole, from E to A, cut from A to B, and curve from B to C.

For the back (Fig. 20), let your paper be 5 nails long, by 3¼ nails wide.

Curve slightly from A to B, cut in a straight line from B to C, hollow for the arm-hole from C to F, cutting into the cloth about 1¼ nail, slope from F to E.

In making up, join the two shoulders together, then sew E G, Fig. 19, to F E, Fig. 20; line it, bind with galloon or tape round the neck, arm-holes, waist, and up the fronts, put on buttons, and make button-holes to correspond in front. Buttons are also put on round the waist, to which the trowsers are to button, as no braces are worn with this vest. [Pg 61]

CHILD’S NIGHT VEST.

PLATE 8. FIG. 21, 22.

Some children are in the habit (when in bed) of kicking off their sheets; and it is very desirable for such to wear fine flannel or demet waistcoats under their night-gowns in winter, and calico ones in summer, to prevent their catching cold. These waistcoats or vests, if for children under five or six, may be cut two in the width of the flannel, and about 8, 10, or 12 nails long, according to the size of the child. After cutting off the pieces required, fold each in half its length, and sew up the side-seams, leaving 1½ nail from the top on each side, to form the arm-holes, which are neatly herring-boned round. The top is hollowed thus: leave about 1¼ nail on each folded side for the shoulders, and hollow down to 1½ nail in front, for the bosom, and to 1 nail behind, for the back. Herring-bone flatly all round, and the vest is completed.

CHILD’S DAY VEST.

PLATE 8. FIG. 23, 24.

Delicate children are often recommended to wear flannel shirts or vests next their skin. They should be of the finest flannel, with plenty of nap, which should be next the skin. These are cut much in the same shape as babies’ second shirts (see Plate 2, Fig. 30), excepting that the back is hollowed out, and it has no sleeves. Two shirts might be cut in the width, of 8 or 10 nails long. When folded in two, and sewed up at the seams, leaving 1½ nail for the arm-hole, the front should be cut. Leave 1¼ nail in each folded side for the shoulders, cut down nearly straight to 1½ nail for a front flap, and slope down behind to the same depth.

BATHING GOWN.

PLATE 8. FIG. 25.

Bathing gowns are made of blue or white flannel, stuff, calimanco, or blue linen. As it is especially desirable that the water should have free access to the person, and yet that the dress should not cling to, or weigh down the bather, stuff or calimanco are preferred to most other materials: the dark coloured gowns are the best for several reasons, but chiefly because they do not shew the figure, and make the bather less conspicuous than she would be in a white dress.

As the width of the materials, of which a bathing gown is made, varies, it is impossible to say of how many breadths it should consist. The width at the bottom, when the gown is doubled, should be about 15 nails: fold it like a pinafore, slope 3½ nails for the shoulders, cut or open slits of 3½ nails long for the arm-holes; set in plain sleeves 4½ nails long, 3½ nails wide, and make a slit in front 5 nails long.

In making up, delicacy is the great object to be attended to. Hem the gown at the bottom, gather it into a band at the top, and run in strings; hem the opening and the bottom of the sleeves, and put in strings. A broad band should be sewed in about half a yard from the top, to button round the waist.

WOMEN’S CAPS.

Women’s caps are generally made of checked, spotted, clear, or twilled muslin, widow’s lawn, and if for night-caps for the poor, sometimes of soft fine calico. The borders are of corded, cambric, jaconet, or clear muslin, and are sometimes, for ladies’ caps, edged with narrow lace, or are made entirely of hemmed net. [Pg 62]

WOMAN’S DAY OR
NIGHT-CAP.

PLATE 9. FIG. 1, 2

This is a favourite shape for a day-cap among the poor.

Observe, that in the Plates the letter D always stands for the doubled part of the muslin.

In cutting out these caps, it is by far the most economical to cut out 24 at a time, as, if half that number is cut, half the width of the length of cloth from which the puffing is cut, is wasted, whereas the 24 exactly fit in.

The crown must be rounded off at the top, for which purpose, double it in half its width, and at 2 nails from the top corner each way, round, or slope off the piece from A to B (see Plate 9, Fig. 1).

The cap is made up as follows:—

Double the bands in two, and turn down the edges as if for sewing. Hem the crown-piece with a very narrow hem up each side, to the distance of half a nail, and sew it firmly to each end of one of the bands; after which, whip and stroke evenly the remaining part of the crown, and sew it to the rest of the band in the middle. To the other side of the band, full on the head-piece or puffing, which is afterwards confined on the other side by being whipped and sewed to the second band. The double border is sewed on in front, and a single one behind, where previously there has been a pretty deep hem made, to admit of strings to draw behind. These strings are sewed into the cap, each at the opposite end of the hem to that on which it comes out. The strings are hemmed at the end, being either pointed or rounded, according to taste. Some ladies prefer their being 1 nail wide and rounded at the end, with a narrow frill or edging sewed on to the distance of 3 or 4 nails round the ends.

A VERY NEAT
NIGHT-CAP.

PLATE 9. FIG. 3, 4, 5, 6.

This, when made of checked muslin, with a border of corded muslin, has a very pretty appearance, and is particularly comfortable for a night-cap, as it sets close to the head.

PLATE 9.

[Pg 63]

The most economical number of caps of this pattern to cut at once, is eight, and should be done as follows, to prevent waste (see Fig. 3). Tear off two lengths of 14 nails, which, when torn each in four, will form the eight head-pieces. The horse-shoe crowns must be cut in two rows deep, four in each row, of 2½ nails wide, which will require 10 nails of the breadth, leaving a piece 8 nails wide and 7 nails long. This piece will cut the eight pairs of strings, which are each half a nail wide, and 7 nails long. After cutting out the cap, shape the head-pieces according to Fig. 4 in the Plate, by which it will be seen that 1¼ nail is taken off in a direct line from A to B. The piece for the horse-shoe crown must be folded, and rounded carefully at the top, and then sloped off in a direct line, thus cutting off half a nail from each side.

In making up the cap, place the straight part of the head-piece in front, and put two runners, besides hem, at equal distances from each other in front, say ¾ of a nail. Whip the back neatly, and after hemming the horse-shoe crown, sew the head-piece firmly to it. Some people hem a cord round the horse-shoe which gives it a greater firmness, and looks like a piping when the head-piece is sewed in, as it ought to be, to the bottom, instead of the top of the hem. A hem is made at the bottom of the cap for a string to draw. Double borders in front, a single one behind, and the strings sewed on, complete the cap.

A YOUNG SERVANT’S
NEAT DAY-CAP.

PLATE 9. FIG. 7, 8.

This shape is generally made of clear muslin, widow’s lawn, or jaconet, and is particularly adapted for girls on first going to service, from its neat simplicity.

The cap is folded in half the width, and cut according to Fig. 7. The side marked D is the doubled part. Mark on the opposite side 2 nails from the top, E, and slope or hollow out a piece from E to H very gradually, letting the greater width of the piece thus hollowed out not exceed half a nail.

Next slope off gradually from H to L at the distance of ½ a nail from the bottom; after which, cut the straight line E K, which is 1 nail in length, the letter K being situated about ¾ of a nail from the side and [Pg 64] 1¼ from the top, and then slope gradually to M. In making up the cap, sew from E to K, and gather in the top from K to M, as in Fig. 8. A single or double border is put in front. This is a small size.

Fig. 18, 19, 27, and 28 are different shaped strings for caps.

ANOTHER NEAT CAP
FOR SERVANTS.

PLATE 9. FIG. 9, 10.

This shape is particularly liked by the poor, from the ease with which it is made up and washed, as, upon undrawing the string, it opens readily at the top, and lies quite flat to be ironed.

As the shape is peculiar, if many are to be cut at once, it would be the least wasteful plan to cut out on a doubled piece of paper, the pattern of the cap, according to Fig. 9; open it out and lay it on the material in such directions as to cut to most advantage. If only one is to be cut, procure a piece of muslin 8 nails wide and 5½ nails long; which, when folded evenly in half its width, shape as follows, according to the Plate. The side marked D is the doubled part; from E at the bottom to F is 2¼ nails. From the top, G to H, measure 2¼ nails, and cut off in a sloping line from I, at the top of the doubled corner, to H, again cut from H to F, after which cut off from F to about ½ a nail above E, and then the shape of the cap is formed.

Strings of the usual size, ½ nail wide and 7 nails long, complete the cap.

In making it up, sew from H to Y, and then hem all round the open part along Y to I, and sew on a full frill of ¾ nail deep, and about 18 nails long. Afterwards hem the front and back of the cap, put double borders in front, and a single one behind, of 1 nail deep, and 3 breadths of 16 or 18 nails wide.

ANOTHER SHAPE.

PLATE 9. FIG. 11, 12.

This is a very simple shape, and for washing and making up is equally convenient with Fig 10. It answers well for a bonnet cap for ladies, in which case it might be made of net or tulle, with a quilling or lace border.

Fold the cap in half its length, making D the doubled part (see Fig. 11). Sew and fell from A to B, to the depth of 1 nail, and hem round the rest of the opening behind, to admit of a ribbon. Let there be two runners besides the hem in front, to admit of tape or narrow ribbon. The border must depend upon the purpose for which the cap is intended: if for a night-cap, a double border in front and single behind will be required: if for a bonnet cap, a double border or quilling only, in front will be sufficient. It may be as well also to remark, that if it is meant for a night-cap, the length of the cap down the selvage should be greater, say 11 or 12 nails; and the width of the material, to cut to the best advantage, must, of course, be either exactly the same, or double. [Pg 65]

A NEAT SCHOOL-GIRL’S CAP.

PLATE 9. FIG. 13, 14.

This pattern needs little further explanation, the shape and size are so clearly given in the Plate. The head-piece is sloped off at the ears, beginning to cut at 1 nail above the corner, to 1 nail beyond the corner, at the bottom of the cap.

This cap is for school girls, and is particularly neat if of checked muslin with corded muslin frills.

A FAVOURITE CAP FOR
LADIES AND POOR WOMEN.

PLATE 9. FIG. 15, 16, 17, 18, 19.

This cap is pretty and not expensive if made without the band and weepers, which, of course, add much to the cost; twelve is the best number to cut out at once. They are generally made for ladies of sprigged muslin, when the head-piece should be of strong muslin or fine calico. The borders are cambric, muslin, or net, edged with Valenciennes lace, or other neat trimming. The weepers are also frilled and edged, as also the rounded ends of the band. The crown is sloped off a little at the corner, as seen in Fig. 16, at A, which is about 2 nails from the corner. The weepers are also shaped to a point, as in Fig. 19 (see B). The band (Fig. 18) is gathered in at about 1½ nail from the end, which is rounded, with edging sewed on. The middle of the band is plaited, and sewed firmly on to the middle of the head-piece, in front. [Pg 66]

A NEAT COMFORTABLE
DAY OR NIGHT-CAP.

PLATE 9. FIG. 20.

This is a shape particularly suitable for day-caps for young servants, or night-caps for any age or station. If intended for day-caps, they should be made of clear or jaconet muslin; if for night-caps, of check or calico.

The head-piece is a little sloped off at the ear from A to B, and is made up double, so as to be only 2 nails deep, when the cap is completed.

ANOTHER CAP.

PLATE 9. FIG. 21.

This shape is very suitable for a servant’s day or bonnet cap; it is simple and pretty in appearance, and not expensive.

In making it up, the band is doubled in half, the crown whipped and sewed to it, leaving it plain from A to B, for the space of 1¾ nail. A double border is sewn on in front.

AN OLD WOMAN’S CAP.

PLATE 9. FIG. 22, 23.

This shape is generally preferred by old women, as it sets comfortably over the ears. [Pg 67]

It is almost impossible to cut out a number of these caps without a little waste.

The head-pieces, when torn off, are 7 nails long, and 1¾ wide; double them in half their length, and then slope off from A to B, one nail. The straight part is the front, to which a border is sewed. The crown is next shaped, according to Fig. 23, for which purpose, double the piece in half its width, and from the corner, B, measure 7 nails on the side to A, and 1 nail on the bottom, to C, and cut off in a straight line from A to C. Round off the corner at the top, from A to D. The crown is sewed on plain for the space of 1½ nail from the bottom, and then evenly fulled into the remainder of the head-piece.

A POOR WOMAN’S
NIGHT-CAP.

PLATE 9. FIG. 24, 25, 26.

This shape is sometimes made of linen, but generally of strong calico or check.

The head-piece is sloped off, as in Fig. 24, from A, which is 1½ nail above the corner, B, to C.

The crown, after being rounded, is evenly fulled into the head-piece, which latter is sewed neatly together behind, at the opening, D C.

ANOTHER CAP.

PLATE 9. FIG. 27, 28.

This is a pretty shape for almost any purpose, and in any thin material; it is cut out in front very much in the same manner that a baby’s cap is cut behind, which will be seen if the Plate is turned round, so as to place the doubled part, D, at the top. [Pg 68]

In making up the cap, sew neatly from A to B, and then full in the part from E to C, evenly to the part between C and B; a hem in the front and at the back, is next made for a ribbon or tape, and a small bow, either of the same material (see Fig. 17), or white or coloured ribbon may be put at B (Fig. 28).

BATHING CAP.

These are made of oil-silk, and are worn, when bathing, by ladies who have long hair. Cut a piece of oil-silk, 4 nails long and 8 nails wide; double it so as to make a square; let the doubled part be the back of the cap, and slope off the corner at the top, towards the back, in a curve, so as to shape it to the form of the back of the head. Sew up along the top of the bathing cap, binding it with tape at the seam, both at the top and in the front. Lay on a tape behind to form a hem, making oylet-holes at the ears, and passing a string through each oylet-hole, which is fastened down at the opposite side; these strings draw up the cap, when worn, to the size required.

It is advisable, however, for those who have not long hair, to bathe in plain linen caps, so as to admit the water without the sand or grit, and thus the bather, unless prohibited on account of health, enjoys all the benefit of the shock without injuring the hair.

These caps are often worn by children when the head is shaved, if subject to diseases in the head, as ring-worm, scald-head, &c.

DRESSING-GOWNS.

PLATE 10.

Dressing-gowns are generally made of warm materials, for the winter, as flannels, either printed or plain, merino, shawl, either the real or imitation, and for gentlemen, of cloth or jean. For summer, they are of dimity, calico, twilled muslin, and sometimes, though rarely, of silk. There are various ways of making them; only a few of the most approved shapes will be here mentioned.

PLATE 10. FIG. 1.

A PLAIN USEFUL SHAPE,
ESPECIALLY FOR MEN.

This gown is made with a deep hem turned up, and a strong piping at the top of it. It is divided into four, and the arm-holes left in the two front seams, sloping the flannel 1 nail deep, and 2½ nails long, for the shoulders. The neck-gusset is put in double, and the shoulder-strap laid over it. The gown must be neatly plaited behind and in front, set firmly into the double collar, and stitched with strong thread near the edge. Some people pipe every seam of a dressing-gown with white or coloured muslin, linen, or glazed calico. The back is drawn up by means of a string-case, over which a band should button. A large button is put on the band, and on the collar, and the button-holes should be very firmly sewed round, either with tape or with button-hole stitch. After putting in the sleeves, run or back-stitch the plaits firmly down again, at about ¼ nail below the gathering, to make them lie flat.

PLATE 10.

[Pg 69]

PLATE 10. FIG. 2.

This figure represents a dressing-gown made of dimity. A deep hem of 3 or 4 nails is made at the bottom, insertion-work is sewed up the fronts, and round the cape, collar, and wrists, at the edge of the work a frill is put on. The gown is fulled in evenly to the shoulder-strap and neck-gusset at the top, and may be confined or not, at the waist behind, according to pleasure. The front is generally left unconfined, so that the band alone arranges it in folds.

FIG. 2, 3.

[Pg 70]

PLATE 10. FIG. 3.

This gown, made of flannel, either plain or printed, is plaited in small regular folds at the neck, where a string-case of muslin or white ribbon is put for a string to pass through. The gown is again plaited in the same folds at the waist, in two rows, to which another string-case is sewed all round the waist. A deep hem is made at the bottom, and turned up with a piping of white; or if it is a printed flannel, of some coloured glazed calico or muslin; the ribbons in front are the same colour, and a flannel band is piped with it, as well as the wristbands and every seam on the shoulders, round the sleeves, &c. The sleeves should be stitched down about 1 nail below the shoulder, to make the fulness lie close and flat. If made of printed flannel, it is useful to wear at the sea-side, as a walking dress, to and from bathing.

CLOAK DRESSING-GOWN.

PLATE 10. FIG. 4.

This is a comfortable simple pattern; it can be made either of flannel or lighter material, and is equally suitable for men, women, and children; it is very convenient for the latter when taken out of a bath, or for sitting up in bed.

After the seams have been herring-boned up, the cloak is folded in four, to find the shoulders, which are cut in a gentle slope to the proper width, and sewed up. The arm-holes having been left, the sleeves are next put in, after which, the gown is fulled evenly into the double shoulder-piece; the collar and cape are next put on; the hem at the bottom should be deep, and turned up with a flannel or tape piping; down the sides and round the cape, collar, &c., should be bound with flannel binding, to give a finish. Some persons omit the sleeves, having merely slits for the arms.

A DRESSING JACKET.

PLATE 10. FIG. 5, 6.

Some persons merely wear a little flannel, calico, or twilled muslin dressing jacket, and as it is usually made to fit the figure, the breadths are much gored; for the purpose, therefore, of better explaining the shape, a figure is made of the breadth when cut out. Fig. 5 A, is half of the back breadth, which is doubled in two, and Fig. 5 B is the whole of one of the front breadths. [Pg 71]

FIG. 5 A.

Or half the back of the jacket when cut out, supposing the breadth to be folded exactly in two.

Let A L be the folded side.

FIG. 5 B.

Or the whole of one of the front breadths.

In making up this jacket, sew the 3 breadths together, putting in at the bottom two gussets or triangular pieces. Make a narrow hem at the [Pg 72] bottom, sew up the shoulders, and put in the sleeves. Set the back breadth plainly into the collar, but full it at each end into the neck gusset, and also in front. Put the string-case about a nail lower than the arm-holes.

FLANNEL PETTICOATS.

PLATE 10. FIG. 7.

The breadths of flannel are cut according to the height of the person, allowing a good tuck besides, to be let down after the petticoat has been washed.

SCALE.

Petticoats are variously made up. The most usual way is plaiting the top in regular folds on each side, letting it be quite plain, or nearly so, in front; it is then set firmly into a linen, calico, or jean band, of the proper width to encircle the waist, and of 1 nail deep when doubled and turned in. Strong tapes are sewed to the ends of the band, and sometimes a large button-hole is made in the band, about 2 nails from the end, through which the tape of the opposite end is drawn, which makes the petticoat set neatly to the figure.

Another manner is to make the petticoat up without any slit behind, so as to be a round skirt; a band of the same size is set on quite plainly, without plait or fulness (see Fig. 8). A runner is made all round in the middle of the band, and two button-holes for the strings to come out of, are made at the two sides of the petticoat under the arm; one tape is sewed firmly down at the end of one of the button-holes, carried all round the petticoat, and drawn out again at the same hole; the other tape, in a similar manner, is sewed down at the other button-hole: when the petticoat is on, and the tapes drawn and tied in front, the fulled part lies behind, forming a sort of bustle to set off the dress properly (see Fig. 9). [Pg 73]

The tops for children’s petticoats are generally a kind of stay, to which the skirt is either sewed or fastened by means of buttons, and to which the drawers button also. For children’s stays, see Plate 11.

POCKETS.

PLATE 10.

Pockets are either worn tied round the waist, fastened into the petticoat, or buttoned upon the stays. When fastened into the petticoat, they are made of the same material, otherwise of dimity, calico, jean, twilled muslin, and sometimes of nankeen or brown jean.

Take a doubled piece of six nails width-way, and seven nails selvage-way when doubled, and cut according to Fig. 10. For this purpose, double the folded piece in half width-way, and slope off from A to B one nail. The hole in the pocket is slit down about four nails, beginning at three-quarters of a nail from the top. Cut the slit in the shape of an I, in order to allow of a deep hem being made on each side. The two pieces of the pocket are run firmly together all round, at a little distance from the edge, on the wrong side. It is then turned inside out, the seam well flattened, and back-stitched all round with white silk, about a quarter of an inch from the edge. The top is set into a broad piece of tape, which is doubled over it and forms the strings also. The slit is hemmed or back-stitched neatly down. Sometimes an inner pocket or pockets are made for a watch, &c., and this is done by sewing a square piece of the material inside the pocket. The top is left open, but the sides and bottom of it are firmly sewed down.

ANOTHER POCKET.

PLATE 10. FIG. 11.

This differs from the other merely in having the slit cut the contrary way, so as to open width, instead of length-wise.

ANOTHER POCKET.

PLATE 10. FIG. 13, 14.

This shape is preferred by some persons, as it sets better to the figure than the others. The straight side is worn in front; and, in cutting out a pair of pockets, care must be taken to make them for the right and left side. The shape is exactly the same as Fig. 10, excepting that, after they are cut out, a gore is taken off from the one side and sewed on to the other, by which means the one is straight and the other, in consequence of the addition, is very much sloped. When pockets are fastened into gowns and petticoats, they are a little fulled at the top, and the slit of the pocket is sewed to the corresponding slit of the petticoat. Some people cut out the slit for the pocket differently, as they are considered to lie flatter to the person than the usual shaped pocket. It is formed by making an oblong bag or pocket, about eight nails long and five nails wide, and cutting at one end, in a slanting direction, so as to take off a triangular piece. To save waste, it is better to make two pockets at once, letting the oblong piece be still five nails wide, when doubled, but fifteen nails long (see Fig. 12); crease it in half its length, and then cut, in a slanting direction, across from A to B. The part cut forms the slit or opening to the pocket, which is sewed all round to the slit in the petticoat or gown.

ANOTHER METHOD.

This is simply a lining or square piece of calico, about ten nails wide and eight nails deep, sewed to the inside of the petticoat quite plainly. The petticoat has a slit of four nails deep. [Pg 74]

FRILLS.

Frills are in use when high gowns are worn, and are made of cambric, muslin, net, lace, tulle, crape, &c.

A SIMPLE FRILL.

This is merely a strip of muslin, about fourteen nails long and three nails wide, more or less, according to pleasure. It is merely hemmed all round, and simply plaited up, in regular folds, to the proper size.

A PARTICULARLY NEAT FRILL.

PLATE 10. FIG. 15.

This is made of net or clear muslin, and is neatly fulled to the band. The edge, instead of being hemmed, is rolled over a bobbin to stiffen it. The band is about half a nail wide, and doubled, and is nine nails long. The frill on each side is fourteen nails long, and two nails wide. A button-hole is put in the middle to fasten it to the gown, and it ties at the ends with ribbons.

A CRIMPED FRILL.

PLATE 10. FIG. 16.

This is very suitable for young children, especially boys, and is generally made of lawn or cambric. The frill should be double the length of the size round the neck, and about one nail wide. A neat hem at one edge, and the other is sewed to a band of the proper length, say about five nails, and of half a nail in depth. These frills should be crimped very neatly.

PLATE 10. FIG. 17.

This frill is to be made like Fig. 15, excepting that the muslin is only one nail deep, and crimped in the same manner as Fig. 16. It is very suitable for young children.

PLATE 10. FIG. 18.

Another and more ornamental frill, made of muslin or net, with edging sewed on it.

The muslin or net must be about four nails wide, and fourteen or sixteen nails long. The frill is creased down the middle, and on each side of the crease, at a quarter of a nail distance, it is neatly run with a long thread, and drawn up to the proper width, forming a puffing in the centre of the frill. This puffing is first stroked with the needle into an even fulness, and then sewed at each side close to the gatherings, to a band of a quarter of a nail wide only, or still narrower, so as to raise the puffing sufficiently to look well, and yet not too much to admit of a ribbon being drawn smoothly through it. This ribbon ties the frill round the neck.

PLATE 10. FIG. 19.

This is a very simple frill, and, when well made, looks remarkably neat. The net of which it is composed must be about two nails and a quarter wide, creased in the middle, and finely plaited in small neat plaits. It is then doubled, and bound on the outside down the folded centre with a narrow ribbon, so that the two sides of the frill lie close together, instead of being open, like Fig. 18.

ANOTHER FRILL.

This kind, which is sometimes called a Ruche, is made exactly contrary to the usual mode. The frill, instead of being run down the middle, is [Pg 75] joined down the sides, and confined at the joining into a ribbon, so that the top of the frill is double; and as it is usually made of tulle, or some rather stiff material, it stands out stiffly from the neck. Pelerines have sometimes a double frill or Ruche, of the same material that they are made of, sewed to them.

CUFFS.

PLATE 10.

There are various kinds of cuffs, for different purposes, of which the most useful only are here explained.

TIDY CUFFS.

PLATE 10. FIG. 20, 21.

Tidy cuffs are much worn by persons whose employments are apt to injure the sleeve of the gown, either by wearing it out, staining, or greasing it. They are very valuable whilst drawing, writing, pasting, or when in the kitchen; and in these cases are generally made of Holland or nankeen, and when braided with dark blue, green, crimson, brown, or any other suitable colour, with ribbons to lace up of the same, they have a particularly neat effect. The cuff is cut out as follows (Fig. 21):—Procure a piece of Holland four nails down the selvage, and five nails wide; double it in half its width, and slope down by the selvage from A to D, and from B to C, cutting off half a nail in a direct slope, so that, when open, the end, C D, is but four nails wide, while A B is five. Turn down a deep hem along each of the sloped sides half a nail deep, and over the stitches put a braid, with two other rows of the same close together on the hem, leaving sufficient space between to insert a thin whalebone to support the cuff, and keep it from wrinkling when on the arm. The lace-holes are worked with silk the same colour as the ribbon. Fig. 20 represents the cuff when laced up.

PLATE 10. FIG. 22.

This is a neat cuff to lay on the dress, and is either made of plain net, of lace, or of muslin, with or without edging, and sometimes of satin ribbon. If for mourning, the net should have a broad hem. It is gathered and sewed into a band about one nail deep, and three or three and a half wide, according to the size of the wrist. There should be two pearl buttons set on one end, and button-holes made to correspond.

PLATE 10. FIG. 23.

This is a plain band, to be made to fit the wrist exactly, of silk, satin, or velvet, to be laid on a thin evening sleeve. It may be one nail broad or more. A rouleau is sometimes laid on round it, or a narrow piping. If it is made of silk the colour of the dress, or of white silk embroidered, it has a very pretty effect.

PLATE 10. FIG. 24.

This is a dress cuff, to wear with lace or tulle sleeves, and may be made of any rich material, with a piping of satin and an edging of blonde or lace. The inside is sometimes embroidered in floss silk. In cutting it out, procure a piece of paper about two nails and a half deep, and four nails long; double it in half its length, and measure up the side from A to C, one nail and a quarter, leaving from C to the upper edge, J, one nail and a quarter also. Cut off the corner from E to C, curving it a little inwards, and again, from C to A, cut off in a direct line one quarter of a nail. Open it, and it will resemble Fig. 24 exactly. [Pg 76]

PLATE 10. FIG. 25.

This cuff resembles the preceding one, but has, in addition, a small second cuff laid on the lower part of it, and a slit cut down from the top to about one nail and a quarter depth from A to B. The top of the second cuff comes just below the slit, and it is a little sloped away at the sides.

PLATE 10. FIG. 26.

A cuff worn in deep mourning, especially by widows, and made either of clear muslin or black crape. It consists of fold lying upon fold, and is either sewed upon the sleeve or made to slip over the hand. The folds are four or five in number, and lie just one above the other, each being about a quarter of a nail deep.

PLATE 10. FIG. 27.

This is to be worn as a trimming or edging, below the sleeve, upon the hand: the band buttons inside the sleeve. The frill is of muslin, cambric, net, or lace. It should be very full, and got up in puffs, or very finely crimped. The ends of the bands should have deep hems, in which the button-holes are worked. The band is about three-quarters of a nail deep, and three or three nails and a half wide.

PLATE 10. FIG. 28.

This is a neat simple little cuff, and suits the collar, Plate 13, Fig. 26. It is well adapted for mourning. Cut two pieces of muslin, net, lawn, or cambric, of two nails square, and hem each round with a broad hem; sew the two together to the depth of about one nail; the parts sewed together form a sort of band inside, while the others, being unattached, fall backwards over the sleeve.

PLATE 10. FIG. 29.

A simple, plain, mourning cuff, with a broad hem above and below. The cuff to be about two nails deep, and three and a half or four nails long, according to the size of the wrist.

APRONS.

PLATE 11.

If for common use, aprons are made of white, brown, blue, black, or checked linen, of black stuff, calico, Holland, leather, nankeen, print, or long cloth; if for better purposes, of cambric muslin, clear, mulled, or jaconet muslin, silk, satinette, satin, &c. The length of the apron is, of course, generally determined by the height of the wearer, and the width, by that of the material, and by the purpose for which it is intended. For working aprons, the width is generally one breadth of a yard wide; for dress aprons, two breadths, one of which is cut in half, and these halves put one on each side of the whole breadth. If the material should be wide enough, one breadth, of from fourteen to twenty nails, will answer very well.

DRESS APRON.

PLATE 11. FIG. 1.

This is made of satinette, or thick satin silk, and consists of two breadths, one in front, and a half-breadth sewed on each side of it. None of them are to be at all sloped. The length is regulated by the pleasure of the wearer, and a broad hem of three-quarters of a nail deep is made all round. The length of the band must vary according to the size of the waist, and must be cut by Fig. L, which represents it when doubled. The part from A to B, or that to which the apron is fulled, is five nails and a half; from A to C is one nail and a half; and from B to D is one full nail. The remainder of the band, from B D, onwards to F, is determined by the size of the waist. A piece of whalebone is stitched into the centre of the band, A C, and on each side of it a little chain-stitch is worked, in thick silk, of the same colour as the apron. The folds are exactly according to the Plate, beginning within the hem, and laid evenly along until below the whalebone, when a space is left. The chain-stitch is next worked in two rows, parallel with the curved shape of the band, allowing little more than a quarter of a nail between the rows. By this means the folds are neatly confined, and it prevents the bustling effect they might otherwise have. These folds are very small and close. The band has a small piping below, but is plain at the top, and fastens behind with hooks and eyes.

PLATE 11.

[Pg 77]

PLATE 11. FIG. 2.

This apron is generally made of silk, but looks well also in muslin. It requires care in the making as well as in the washing. The vandykes are formed by turning the edge of the apron down once, all round, to about three-quarters of a nail deep; and, after tacking it firmly down, vandykes are neatly run, in very small stitches (Fig. 5), from the edge of the apron to pretty near the rough edge of the silk, leaving sufficient to turn in well afterwards:—thus, let the vandykes be run to the depth of from A to B, leaving a small space all the way from B to C. When finished turn each vandyke inside out, and smooth all the wrinkles at the corners and points with a stiletto or scissors. When it is well and evenly pulled out, turn in the rough edge and hem it neatly down. Sometimes a little braid, or a row of chain-stitch, is put over the stitches on the right side. The plaits are regularly laid, those on each side being folded towards the middle. The band is frequently lined with buckram or stiff muslin, and is made with or without piping. Scollops are sometimes substituted for vandykes.

PLATE 11. FIG. 3.

This apron is of muslin, either clear or otherwise. A broad hem is made all round, of the proper width to admit a coloured or white ribbon of the half or three-quarter nail breadth. Some fine work or edging may be sewed to the hem all round. The band should be open at the ends to admit of the ribbon that ties it being drawn out when the apron is washed. The hem all round should also be kept open at the ends for the same purpose, and merely tacked up when the ribbon is put in.

PLATE 11. FIG. 4.

This is an apron with a broad hem all round, and a full frill of any fine material.

PLATE 11. FIG. 6.

A clear muslin apron, with a broad hem of three-quarters of a nail deep, and a shawl bordering laid all round within the hem, either half or three-quarters of a nail deep. This is a pretty apron for a young person. The bordering must be taken off before the apron is washed.

PLATE 11. FIG. 7.

This represents the bottom of an apron when hollowed out. It has a simple broad hem, turned up with a piping. [Pg 78]

PLATE 11. FIG. 8.

The broad hem here is surrounded by a deep crimped frill of about a nail broad. These aprons are generally made of jaconet or cambric muslin, and the frill of cambric or lawn. They are very suitable for ladies to wear in a morning when cutting out, or in the housekeeper’s room.

PLATE 11. FIG. 9.

This is a pretty evening apron, made with a broad hem, and muslin insertion-work let in all round, inside which, coloured ribbon may or may not be run. Edging, either of lace or worked muslin, is put on all round.

APRON POCKETS.

These vary very much, some being laid on the apron as in Fig. 3, 4, and 6; others put on at the back, a slit being made in the apron to correspond with the place of the pockets. These last are made as in Fig. P, from a long double piece, which, being sewed up, is cut diagonally or crosswise, from A to B, and forms two pockets, the part cut being sewed to the slit of the apron. The whole length of the narrow piece, before it is cut, is six nails, and the width, when double, two nails. The slit in the apron is neatly hemmed, and a trimming of ribbon or silk put round it, with a bow at the bottom, or a fringe and tassels.

In Fig. 3 the pocket is a piece of two nails and a half deep and five nails wide. This piece is plaited in regular folds at the top to a lining of only two nails and a half deep, and the same width. The bottom is fulled nearly to a point in small folds, and the lining, being turned in to the same shape, is sewed to it with a piping. The pocket is then stitched firmly on to the apron, and trimmed according to fancy. One or three small bows are put on the pocket.

In Fig. 4 the pocket is cut in the shape of a heart, and put plainly on the apron. It is about two nails and three-quarters wide, and two nails and a half deep. The pocket is piped or trimmed with edging.

In Fig. 6 the pocket is particularly neat and pretty, being made of folds of the same material as the apron, with a coloured piping all round it, and three bows the same colour as the piping.

COMMON APRONS.

The simplest kind, and that generally worn by working men, is a yard wide or more, hemmed at the bottom and at the top, with a string run through to tie round the waist. It is thus worn by brewers, &c.

PLATE 11. FIG. 10.

This is a simple shape, and the one most in use. It is either plaited or gathered into the band, which is about a nail deep. These aprons are usually worn by all servants and women while at work. Blue, check, and brown linen are most used for scouring and cleaning; white linen, Holland, and print, for less dirty employments. Ladies wear them of silk or muslin, with or without pockets.

PLATE 11. FIG. 11.

This is a pretty apron, often worn by girls from eight to sixteen or eighteen years of age. The bib is made of the proper size to fit in front, between the shoulders of the wearer, coming down in a slope to the waist. These bibs may be plain, or they are ornamented with tucks or folds, either upright or length-wise. The shoulder-strap may be of the same material, or of tape or ribbon. The apron is gathered evenly, [Pg 79] or plaited so as to reach to A on each side, which is situated exactly between the bottom of the bib and the shoulder-strap behind.

PLATE 11. FIG. 12.

May be worn either as a common or as a pretty dress apron, according to the material and trimming. It may be made of silk, coloured muslin, or print. After being properly gathered into the band, two shoulder-straps, in the form of four lappets, are cut out, either pointed, as in A, or rounded, as in B. These lappets may be piped, and either edged with lace or fringe, or left plain. For a full size, the lappet is five nails along the selvage, from D to C, and one nail and three-quarters from C to B. The two straps are sewed together at C, and fastened with a bow of ribbon. The lappet is piped all round with a strong cord, to make it wear well.

PLATE 11. FIG. 13.

This shape is much worn by men servants, apothecaries, grocers, &c., and is simply gathered into a band, leaving a piece of two nails unattached to it, A B, which is hemmed at the top, and falls negligently down.

A COOKING APRON.

PLATE 11. FIG. 14.

This is a neat pattern for a housekeeper, cook, or kitchen-maid. The bib is quite plain, and pins to the gown at the corners. The size given in the Plate is suitable for a girl, but the bib should be cut to suit the wearer at once, and not made by guess. The apron is made of check or strong linen.

A PANTRY APRON.

PLATE 11. FIG. 15.

A very good shape for men servants to wear when trimming lamps, cleaning shoes and knives, &c. The apron is about a yard and a quarter long, and it is made of strong linen or calico. The tape for the neck should be nine or ten nails long. A pocket may be added in front. The corners of the apron are simply turned down to the distance of five nails and a half from the top (see A A), the letters, A A, being each exactly five nails and a half from B. These corners are either sewed or strongly hemmed down.

GENTLEMEN’S WORKSHOP APRON.

PLATE 11. FIG. 16.

This is very useful for gentlemen when turning, or using tools, and is generally made of Holland or strong white or brown linen. The width is fifteen or sixteen nails; the part for the neck four and a half, five, or more, according to the width across the shoulders of the wearer. The depth of this part two nails and a half or more. The straps, about eight nails and a half long, cross each other from the neck to the half of the shoulder part of the apron; which plan holds it up neatly in front, and makes it set more comfortably. A pocket may be added, according to pleasure, in front, or two at the sides. A slit in the apron, bound round with tape, and a square piece put on behind it, looks the neatest as a pocket.

SENTIMENT, FIANCÉE,
OR NECK-TIE.

PLATE 11. FIG. 17, 18.

This is made of velvet, satin, or silk, and is worn for the purpose of keeping the neck warm, and as a finish to the dress. It is made of two [Pg 80] colours, which are joined in the middle and lined with sarsenet: the silk or other material is cut crosswise and pointed at the ends. The sentiment is six or seven nails long from point to point, when made up, and within one nail and a half of the point at one end, is fastened with strong stitches or a silk ring. When the tie is worn, the other point is passed through the ring and drawn close. Sometimes the neck-tie is of a dark coloured silk in the middle with two coloured ends.

A DRESS SCARF
OR CAPRICE.

PLATE 11. FIG. 19, 20.

This is made of the broadest satin ribbon that can be procured, say two nails and a half wide, and is two yards and three-quarters long. Double the ribbon on the wrong side exactly in two, and, while so doubled, run across the width of the ribbon in a slanting direction (Fig. 19, A B), and when opened, the scarf will set to the form of the neck. An edging of swansdown is sewed all round, and the ends may be either embroidered, braided, or left plain, according to the taste of the wearer.

A CACHEMIRE OR
INDIANA SCARF.

PLATE 11. FIG. 21.

This is a kind of scarf which is easily made, and is a pretty finish to a walking dress, or may be worn in an evening at home: it is formed of three colours, say black, scarlet, and light blue. To make one scarf, you will want one yard and six nails in length and four nails and a half in width, of the black cachemire.

Sometimes the length of the scarf will lie in the width of the material, in which case it will be a great saving of expense. Procure a piece of each of the other two colours, seven nails long, and of the same width as the black, viz., four nails and a half. Find the middle of each end of the black strip, and slope off one nail and a half from the middle to each side (see Fig. 21, A C A D): next, slope one end of the blue, and one end of the scarlet strip, to accord exactly with the black strip, cutting the nail and a half from the middle to the ends. After this, split the blue and the scarlet pieces down the middle, sew half the blue and half the scarlet very accurately, first together, and then to the black strip, making the points fit in as neatly as possible to the half strips: do the same at the other end, arranging the colours so as to be at cross corners with each other. Observe that the pieces are sewed flatly together, and herring-boned all round on the right side. A narrow silk gymp, one-third of a nail wide, is laid at the edge and upon all the joinings; this gymp should be of some clear bright colour, as yellow and deep brown or gold colour, and at the ends is a silk fringe of blue and scarlet, to match the two half strips.

A SIMPLE SCARF.

This is made of plain net or tulle, the whole width of the material, say three-quarters of a yard, and three yards long. A broad hem is made all round, wide enough to admit of a satin ribbon of a three-penny breadth.

STAYS OR CORSETS.

PLATE 11.

It is impossible to give any particular patterns or sizes of stays, as they must, of course, be cut differently, according to the figure, and be variously supported with more or less bones or runners of cotton, according to the age, strength, or constitution of the wearer; we shall, therefore, confine ourselves to a few observations on the making up: and with respect to the cutting out, it is recommended to those who make their own stays, to purchase a pair from an experienced stay-maker that fit perfectly well, and also a pair cut out, but not made up, so as to be a good pattern for the home-made stays. [Pg 81]

WOMEN’S STAYS.

PLATE 11. FIG. 22.

If for ladies, they are made of sattine, or best French jean, which is half a yard wide, and about 20d. or 2s. per yard: if of an inferior quality, they are made of white, brown, grey, or nankeen jean, at 8d. or 10d. per yard, and lined with calico between the doubles. The stay is generally lined between the two pieces of jean with union cloth or Irish linen in every part excepting the gores. Stays are usually cut in four parts, all of which are generally upon the cross, as this assists materially in making them set better to the figure. Two of the pieces reach from each side of the back, nearly to the hips, and the other two from thence to the middle of the busk or steel. There are two gores on each side for the bosom, and two larger ones on each side below, for the hips.

The necessary bones are as follows:

It is as well to observe that unless particularly feeble, or otherwise an invalid, it is most desirable to wear as few bones as possible; and that for healthy persons, the two back bones, with the steel in front, are quite sufficient. The casing of the steel in front is sometimes made elastic to the depth of four nails from the top, by means of Indian rubber runners; which adds much to the comfort of asthmatic or delicate persons. (See Fig. 23.)

On each side of the steel is a cotton runner, and these are also put in various other parts of the stays, according to fancy.

ON MAKING UP.

The needles used for making stays are called the between needles. Strong sewing silk, called stay-silk, is used for the best corsets, and strong waxed cotton for the common ones. In sewing the seams, take great care to turn in the work properly, so as to have all the rough edges within the stay: for this purpose, first turn down the outside and inside piece of jean lying on one side of the seam, with the rough edges and the lining prepared as if for common sewing; do the same with the other side of the seam, placing the two seams, thus prepared, side by side, and sew them firmly together. It will have the effect of a double ordinary seam, when held between the finger and thumb. The mode of sewing these four thicknesses so as to make them lie flatly when opened, is rather peculiar. Take up with your needle, three of the thicknesses, leaving the fourth unsewed. The next stitch, take again three folds, leaving the other outside one unsewed: continue alternately taking up one outside and omitting the other, letting the stitches lie close together: when completed, open the seam, and flatten it with the finger and thumb.

The gores are next laid between the doubles of jean, and neatly back-stitched all round; the narrow parts at the top being worked in button-hole stitch.

The bone-cases are then made, and the cotton runners back-stitched. [Pg 82]

The oylet or lace-holes are next worked, and after the stay-bones are put in, the top and bottom of the stays, with the shoulder-straps, are neatly bound with stay-binding.

As there are many varieties in the shapes of the different parts of stays, they will be described in detail, under their respective heads.

GORES.

These are sometimes made of elastic wires, as in Fig. 23, sometimes of Indian rubber, and sometimes of a kind of elastic twill.

SHOULDER-STRAPS

Are made of the same material as the stays, and back-stitched to the front and back of the shoulder. Sometimes they are buttoned down in the front, which enables the wearer, by unbuttoning them, to dress her hair in an evening with perfect ease. (See Fig. 22.)

Others have oylet-holes to admit of bobbins, which lace them to corresponding holes in the stays. (See Fig. 24.)

A piece of Indian rubber or elastic wire, of about one nail in length, is frequently sewed to the end of the strap, and this is considered the most convenient, as it will lengthen or contract at pleasure.

LACE-HOLES

Are generally worked round in button-hole stitch; sometimes tape is laced from the outside through these holes, being drawn through every other hole till they reach the top, and then brought down again, drawing it round the edge, through the intermediate holes; this preserves them from being worn. (See Fig. 26.) Others insert in every hole a ring, called a patent lace-hole. These are very durable, but are said to destroy the laces.

MODESTY-PIECE.

To the top of the stay is sometimes attached a small modesty-piece, which for some people is an excellent contrivance, as it makes it set more closely and delicately in front. This extra piece is all in one, and is the cross-way; it is carried along the whole of the front of the stay: it is about half a nail deep over the bosom, and sloped off to a quarter of a nail over the stay-bone; at the top of this additional strip, which is bound all round, a bobbin is run to draw it up. When drawn properly, this modesty lies over the bosom so as to shade it delicately, whereas if it were cut all in one piece with the stay it would make it higher, but it would stand out, and not answer the desired end. (See Fig. 25.)

NURSING STAYS.

It is essential to open the front of nursing stays, so as to give the mother the greatest ease while feeding her infant; for this purpose, care should be taken that no stay-bones or hard buttons should come in contact with the child’s face: the two or three best modes of opening them are the following:

Leave open that side of the bosom gore which is next to the shoulder-strap, to the depth of a full nail and a half; neatly bind the side of the gore, and after back-stitching the opposite side, sew on very firmly two buttons, one at the top and the other lower down. To the gore is attached two loops, by which it can be buttoned or unbuttoned at pleasure. (See Fig. 24.)

Another mode is that of leaving open the outer sides of those gores nearest the steel or middle of the stays.

These sides, and the parts with which they accord, have oylet-holes [Pg 83] worked down them, exactly opposite to each other. Through each oylet-hole in the gore, pass a bobbin of about two nails and a quarter long, which is fastened at one end firmly to the wrong side, just behind the oylet-hole. The other end of each bobbin is drawn across to the inner side of the corresponding hole, and pulled through. By this arrangement all the ends of the bobbins lace up the whole gore. The bobbins are sewed together at the ends, forming a loop to attach it to a button on each side of the steel (see Fig. 23, A B).

These bobbins should be carefully cut and joined, so as to pull the gores properly in their places. When it is unbuttoned the whole front lets down comfortably. It is advisable to sew a little fold or oblong piece to the stay on the inside, which forms a flap to lie between the shift and the opening, as a guard from cold.

MEN’S STAYS, OR BELTS.

PLATE 11. FIG. 27, 28.

These are worn by gentlemen in the army, hunters, or by those using violent exercise.

They are made of strong jean, duck, leather, or webbing.

Sometimes the stay is merely a strip or belt, as Fig. 28; at others it is a little shaped or peaked, as Fig. 27. Towards the ends is sewed a piece of elastic work (see Fig. 28 E). Runners of cotton are made in various places to strengthen the whole. Long webbing straps are sewed three on each end. These straps are sewed on with pieces of leather over them, and are about three nails deep. The length is, of course, determined by the size of the wearer.

BELT FOR A HUNTER
OR COACHMAN.

This is often merely a simple leather belt, with three tongues and buckles.

CHILD’S LITTLE STAY.

PLATE 11. FIG. 33.

This is made of fine jean, doubled, of three nails depth, and of the width required by the child. Cord runners are made in front, and at the backs, and buttons are put on, before and behind, for the drawers and flannels to be attached to.

AN OLDER CHILD’S STAY.

PLATE 11. FIG. 29.

This is formed of double jean, and may be lined between with Irish linen. If it is preferred, all the runners may have cotton drawn through them, so as to admit of no bones.

BUSTLES.

PLATE 11. FIG. 30, 32.

Bustles are worn by those whose shape requires something to set off the skirt of the gown. They should not be too large, or they look indelicate, and in bad taste. They are made of jean, strong calico, and sometimes of glazed calico.

Fig. 30 represents a simple bustle of strong calico. It is composed of one piece the width of the calico, say a yard, and eight nails deep. This piece is doubled in two, so as to make two flounces, the one four nails and a half long, and the other three and a half. At one nail from the doubled top make a narrow case to admit of tapes. The bottoms of the flounces are hemmed with a very thick cord in them. When worn, the bustle is turned inside out, by which means the frill falls between the two flounces (see Fig. 32). [Pg 84]

Fig. 31 is merely two flounces of jean, one four nails deep and the other three nails, gathered into a tape at the top and vandyked at the bottom.

Some persons wear down bustles (see Fig. 33), which are made of glazed lining muslin. A flat half circle or oval is cut out, about two nails and a half wide by two nails deep, and another piece, of an oblong shape, rounded at the corners, much longer and deeper, say three-quarters of a yard long by four nails and a half deep, is fulled into the smaller piece on one side, and into a tape on the other or top, thus making a bag to contain the down, which should be either swan’s or the best goose down.

VEILS.

The subject of veils is one that may soon be dismissed, as a few words on the materials of which they are composed, together with the usual sizes, comprises all that can be said upon them.

Veils for ordinary wear may be of a kind of soft tulle, made on purpose, of net, gauze, or crape. The size for a grown-up person is from thirteen nails to a yard long, and about twenty nails wide; for a child, eleven nails long, and the width is determined by that of the material. Demi-voiles are about four nails deep, and the width is regulated by that of the bonnet to which they are attached.

A pretty way of making a net or tulle veil is by hemming a satin ribbon half a nail deep all round it, either the same colour, or, if the veil is white, of some pale shade to suit the bonnet or the dress. This, by strengthening the edges, makes the veil wear better than it would otherwise do.

A crape or gauze veil is simply hemmed all round, the hem being deeper at the bottom to give it a little weight. A ribbon is run in at the top.

Mourning veils are of black crape. They should be made of what is termed the best, or jet black crape, as the blue-black soon wears whitish, and looks shabby. The other, though the most expensive at first, is the best economy in the end. They are made quite plainly, with a broad hem all round—say three-quarters of a nail deep.

Demi-voiles, when not of blonde, Chantilly, or worked lace, are of tulle, with ribbon run in. They should be set on the bonnet slightly, fulled all round the brim, but much more so at the ears, to make them hang well. A demi-voile should also be a little taken up at the ears, so as not to be the full depth, which is apt to give a slovenly appearance.

Riding veils are much shorter than any other kind except demi-voiles, and sufficiently wide to draw nearly all round the hat. They are made either of black lace, worked on purpose, or of brown or green crape. It is a good plan to run a string through a riding-veil, both at the top and bottom, taking care that the ribbon at the bottom is only just as long as the veil is wide, so that it is not seen when not in use. The advantage of this second string is, that in hot weather, and under a glaring sun, the wearer may tie both ribbons round her hat, thus forming a double veil for the protection of her eyes, whilst the lower part of the face has all the benefit of the cool air.

SLEEVES.

PLATE 12.

Sleeves should, when it is possible, be cut upon the cross; for which purpose a corner of the material should be turned up, until the doubled part, which is the cross way, is large enough to admit of the length and width of the sleeve.

Silk is sometimes too narrow for a very large sleeve to be made without joining, when care should be taken to join together two selvages. The joinings must be so contrived as to set either under, or at the back of the sleeves.

PLATE 12.

[Pg 85] In order to make sleeves set well, they are hollowed out, as it is called, which is nothing more than cutting away a little of the front, at the top, so as to make it less deep than the back, observing always that it is straight in the front, the crosswise part of the sleeve falling behind. This is of great importance, as the set of the sleeve depends upon it. Of course attention must be paid to make them in pairs.

There are so many ways of finishing sleeves, and so many fancies about them, that to describe them all would be equally impossible and useless. A few rows of biassing, both at the top and bottom, or small plaits, confined once or twice by narrow bands, or by back-stitching, give a very neat appearance when the sleeve is at all a full one.

For lining sleeves, see the description in Chapter I.

A CHILD’S FIRST
SLEEVE.

PLATE 12. FIG. 1, 2.

This is a neat shape for a child of a year old, before which time their sleeves are generally cut straight, and merely sloped down to the cuff.

Turn up your material seven nails, and, after cutting a pattern according to the figure, lay it on the piece and cut by it.

The pattern is cut as follows (see Fig. 2):—Take half a square of seven nails each way, and from A to B measure two nails; the same from A to H, and mark across, letting the wrist be one nail and three-quarters wide. From B to C is four nails, between which, measure downwards, one nail and a half, and curve from B, by L, to C, which is one nail from D. Measure next to E, three nails, and curve from C to E, and again from E to G, which is two nails from F.

The part marked D in all the sleeves is double. When made up it resembles Fig. 1.

AN OLDER CHILD’S
SLEEVE.

PLATE 12. FIG. 3, 4.

Turn up seven nails crosswise, and cut as follows, see Fig. 4:—

Cut across one nail and a quarter for the wrist.

Slope gradually from B to F.

[Pg 86] Slope from F to G, and from G to H.

In making up Fig. 3, after joining the seams, and hemming or piping it at the bottom, gather it into the arm-hole at the top, and make a string-case just above the elbow to confine it as in the Plate. If preferred, it may be gathered above the elbow, and a narrow band put on.

LONG SLEEVE FOR A
GROWN-UP PERSON.

PLATE 12. FIG. 5, 6.

This is cut as follows:—Turn up your paper pattern, or material, nine nails upon the cross (see Fig. 6).

Cut straight from J to B for the wrist.

Cut straight from B to K, which is two nails below C. Cut in a sweep from K to the point, O, which is a quarter of a nail below E.

Cut in a sweep from O to F, and from G to I.

The making up is perfectly simple. It is for a small-sized person.

THE CIRCULAR
LONG SLEEVE.

PLATE 12. FIG. 7, 8.

This takes rather more of the material than the other shapes, but it is so easily cut out, and looks so well when made up, that it is allowed a place here.

For the full size it is a perfect circle, in a square of about fifteen nails.

After the circle is formed, double it in half (see Fig. 8); measure at A B a sufficient width to admit of the wrist, and slit up, in a slightly curving line, from B to C for about four nails, to form the arm of the sleeve. A little of the circle, from E towards B, is then sloped off to form the hollowing.

When made up, this part, E, is all taken up and gathered into the shoulder-strap. It is considered to hang particularly well, falling over the tight part of the sleeve (see Fig. 7.) [Pg 87]

A PLAIN
LONG SLEEVE.

PLATE 12. FIG. 9, 10.

Turn up your material a yard or fifteen nails. If it will not permit of this being done without joining, add a straight piece along the dotted line, running the two selvages together. Cut out as follows:

Cut from C to within half a nail below B for the wrist. Cut nearly straight from B to O, which is two nails and a half below L, and in a sweep from O to E.

Sweep well from E to G, and from G to I.

The making up is perfectly simple.

A FULL SLEEVE.

PLATE 12. FIG. 11, 12.

Turn up fifteen nails of your material, and mark as follows:—

Curve from C to B; from B to F. Hollow from F to G, and cut nearly straight from G to H.

It is made up either quite simply, or with one or two rows of biassing below the gathers at the top.

ANOTHER FULL SLEEVE.

PLATE 12. FIG. 13, 14.

Turn up thirteen nails of your material, and mark as follows:—

[Pg 88] Slope in a regular curve from C, by B, to E. Curve easily from E to G, and cut nearly straight from G to H. Cut from H to I for the wrist.

A SMALL SLEEVE.

PLATE 12. FIG. 15, 16.

Turn up your material so that the cross part, is seventeen nails long. Cut as follows (Fig. 16):

Slope, in an equal and full curve, from C, by B, to F. Cut straight from G to I.

AN OLD WOMAN’S
SLEEVE.

PLATE 12. FIG. 17, 18.

This is an economical kind of sleeve, worn much by the working classes.

Double your material either on the cross or nearly straight, according to taste and economy. From A to B, the doubled part, is ten nails and a half. C is the point opposite O, which is two nails below B. Slope, in an outward curve, from B to C, and then, taking but one fold of the silk, cut the inward curve from B to C, which forms the hollowing or inside of the sleeve.

A BOY’S SLEEVE.

PLATE 12. FIG. 19, 20.

This is for a boy of about six years old, who wears tunics of cloth. The sleeve, when doubled, is six nails long, four nails wide at the top, and one nail and three-quarters at the wrist. A is three nails from the top, opposite to which is B.

Curve from C to B, hollowing out one fold. Fig. 20 represents the sleeve made up.

A BOY’S SLEEVE.

PLATE 12. FIG. 21.

This sleeve is for a boy’s coat or tunic, and has two seams in it, like a man’s coat sleeve.

Take two pieces of cloth eight nails long and three wide. A is half way down the length. Curve from A to the bottom, to within half a nail from the corner. Curve from B to C at two nails from the top, and from A to B at three-quarters of a nail from the side, which forms the elbow. Curve from C to the bottom, at three-quarters of a nail from the side.

A WOMAN’S
LARGE SLEEVE.

PLATE 12. FIG. 22, 23.

Turn up your material fourteen nails, and double it so as to be sixteen nails long at the top, A C E. [Pg 89]

Sweep gradually from B, past C, to F. Curve again from F to H. Cut in a straight line from H to J.

In making up, the sleeve may be biassed one nail from the top, and a piped band laid on, and again three or four times at the wrist, or it may be confined above the elbow; in which case it must be made a little longer than would otherwise be necessary.

This is a pattern that can only be used when large sleeves are worn; but, being a good shape, it is hoped it may prove acceptable.

SHORT SLEEVES.

PLATE 12. FIG. 24, 25, 26.

These are for dresses, frocks, or even petticoats, when full sleeves are worn and liked.

Cut the pattern of the whole sleeve in paper; and then, turning up your material to a sufficient size crosswise, lay the sleeve open upon it, placing the long side of the pattern upon the cross or doubled part of the material. Both sleeves may thus be cut out at once.

When cut out, fold each sleeve in half (see Fig. 26), and hollow one fold out to form the inside.

Take care to hollow the sleeves properly, so as to make a pair, the straight part of the sleeve being in front, which is to be hollowed. If the sleeve should require joining, sew two selvages together (see the dotted line, Fig. 25). [Pg 90]

In making up, the bottom of the sleeve may be either set into a band, as in the Plate, or into a piping; at the top it is gathered, and frequently a piping is put round it, which gives it a neat finish: it is set into the dress quite plainly under the arms; the fulness is thrown a little back, for if brought too forward, it is very unbecoming to the figure.

SHORT SLEEVE.

PLATE 12. FIG. 27, 28, 29.

These are cut out exactly like Fig. 25, excepting that after the sleeve is simply cut out, a triangular piece is taken from the top of the doubled part of it, and a triangle of worked muslin inserted. To cut out this piece, double the sleeve, as in Fig. 29, and cut off from A to B: when opened again, it will resemble Fig. 28, and when made up, it will be like Fig. 27.

In making up, after setting the sleeve into a band or piping at the bottom, gather it at the top and sew it to the triangular piece, throwing the fulness pretty equally at the sides, and making it very full at the point of the triangle. Sometimes the triangle is piped to make it firmer.

CIRCULAR SHORT SLEEVE.

PLATE 12. FIG. 30, 31, 32.

This is another kind of short sleeve, being cut out of a circle. It is hollowed a little (see Fig. 30), A B, for the inside of the arm. A circular hole is cut in the centre, a little larger than the width of the arm; this inner circle is gathered and set into the band, and the outer one, also gathered, is sewed into the arm-hole of the dress.

The following are good sizes for circular sleeves, all of which must be cut out of squares.

TIGHT SLEEVE.

PLATE 12. FIG. 33, 34, 35.

This sleeve may be used either for petticoats, or, when tight sleeves are worn, for evening dresses, and children’s frocks, in which case it is ornamented in different ways.

Turn up the material on the perfect cross, and for the better cutting it out, double it again, as in Fig. 33, on which four folds lay your pattern, D being the doubled part.

Turn up your material eight nails, then fold it from A to B, Fig. 35, and cut as follows, see Fig. 33:

Cut from B to C, sweep from B to F, and then cut from H, which is half a nail above C, to G.

PLATE 13.

[Pg 91]

SHOULDER-PIECES,
COLLARS, CAPES &c.

PLATE 13.

As the above articles, together with pelerines, tippets, and collarettes, are required for cloaks, gowns, pelisses, frocks, and dressing-gowns, it is advisable to class them under a head by themselves, by which means they can be more readily explained, without confusion or repetition, and the pattern wanted for any particular dress, referred to.

Patterns of the prettiest and most varied forms are selected, together with a few scales for different sizes.

Observe that the Plates represent but half of the pattern, which is supposed to be double at the end marked D; also NOTICE, that they are drawn to a scale of the exact size of the pattern when made up, so that about a quarter of a nail must be allowed all round for the turnings in. It is a good plan, when cutting out any difficult shape, to make a pattern on paper, very accurately, first; and then to lay it on the material and cut by it.

As it would be impossible to describe any intricate shape clearly, without putting it into some regular form, it is deemed necessary to enclose each pattern within an oblong or a square, on the sides of which are marked distinctly the nails, so that by making a figure on paper to a scale of real nails in the same proportion, and marking with great accuracy the parts, which the extreme points of the irregular pattern within, touch, the shape may be easily obtained by curving inwardly or outwardly from point to point, according to the shape to be represented in the drawing. It is always preferable to cut the above articles crosswise, both before and behind, as they set much better to the shape, especially behind; for the sake of economy, they are sometimes cut straight-wise with one end placed against the selvage; sometimes the collar or cape is joined behind with a neat piping, in which case the back of the pattern is frequently laid against the selvage and the points made to lie crosswise. The Plate represents the patterns as cut on the most economical plan, shewing whether the front or back should be straight-wise. Observe that if one side of the back be cut across, the other side must be so likewise, and if one side of the back be cut selvage-wise, so must the corresponding; whereas, with regard to the front ends, one side may be straight, while the other is on the cross.

IN CUTTING CROSSWISE.

Turn up a sufficient quantity of the corner of the material, like a half-handkerchief, and laying the pattern with the part marked D on the doubled part of the material, cut it out, allowing a quarter of a nail all round for the turning in.

IN CUTTING STRAIGHT-WISE.

Double the material selvage-wise to the proper width, and cut out according to the paper pattern, still placing D on the folded part of the muslin.

SHOULDER-PIECES.

Are generally employed in dressing-gowns, cloaks, and capes, also in boys’ high dresses. It is the part to which the skirt or deep cape is fulled, and should be made to set particularly well to the figure, else the whole dress will have an awkward appearance.

In making up, the shoulder-pieces are generally lined, unless they are intended for any light article of dress. If they are meant for a cloak or warm cape, a piece of fine flannel or demet, is often put between the material of which the cloak is made and the lining, with a piping round the edge. [Pg 92]

A NEAT SHOULDER-PIECE
FOR A WOMAN’S CLOAK.

PLATE 13. FIG. 1.

Shape off in a gradual curve from D to B, from B to I. Cut in a straight line from D to G. Slope from G to H.

SHOULDER-PIECE
FOR A CHILD’S CLOAK.

PLATE 13. FIG. 2.

Cut in a straight line from C to J. Curve gradually from F to G, and from B to H.

A VERY NEAT
SHOULDER-PIECE
FOR A WOMAN’S CLOAK.

PLATE 13. FIG. 3

[Pg 93] Form the curve from B to H, so as to end without abruptness, and be lost in the straight line. Round well from B to D.

SHOULDER-PIECE FOR
A BABY’S CLOAK.

PLATE 13. FIG. 4.

SHOULDER-PIECE TO
A CHILD’S PELISSE.

PLATE 13. FIG. 5.

This shape is much in use for spencers, pelisses, and boys’ high dresses. The part marked S sets over the shoulder when the sleeve is fulled on at the top. The parts marked B and F lie in the middle, exactly behind, and in front; thus the pattern shows half the shoulder-piece, the curve being for half round the neck. The other half is piped and sewed on to it in front, and is fastened behind by buttons. The fulness of the body is then sewed on to this shoulder-piece, which is piped all round.

VARIOUS SIZES FOR
CAPES AND TIPPETS
FOR WOMEN AND CHILDREN.

PLATE 13. FIG. 6.

• Column 1. A woman’s large cape for walking in.
• Column 2. A woman’s large cape for morning dress.
• Column 3. A child’s large cape for walking in.
• Column 4. A woman’s collar.
• Column 5. A child’s pretty cape for morning dress.
• Column 6. A child’s cape for a pelisse.
• Column 7. Pretty cape for the morning dress of a
• child of four or five years old.
• The Plate represents the pattern in the fourth column.

[Pg 94]

PLATE 13. FIG. 7.

• Column 1. A neat collar for a woman’s cloak or dressing-gown.
• Column 2. Rather smaller pattern of the above.
• Column 3. A very neat collar for a girl of fourteen.
• Column 4. A collar for a baby’s flannel cloak.
• The Plate represents column 2.

In column 3, mark one quarter of a nail above the corner, G, and slope off in a direct line from the mark to the opposite corner, A, which is merely rounded off at the corner, about a quarter of a nail on each side.

PLATE 13. FIG. 8.

A pretty collar to put on a silk mourning shawl, or for a dress or cloak. Both the back and front must be on the cross. [Pg 95]

A PARTICULARLY NEAT AND
WELL-SETTING CAPE.

PLATE 13. FIG. 9.

PLATE 13. FIG. 10, 11.

Fig. 11 is a very pretty pattern for a walking cape, and is often worn in mourning, with black crape gaufiered round the edge a nail deep, as in the Plate. Fig. 10 is a simple collarette, which is sewed on the cape to give it a finish.

[Pg 96]

A REMARKABLY NEAT
MORNING COLLAR.

PLATE 13. FIG. 12.

A PRETTY LITTLE CAPE
FOR A BABY’S CLOAK
OR PELISSE.

PLATE 13. FIG. 13.

[Pg 97]

SMALL COLLAR TO
BE SEWED TO A
HABIT-SHIRT.

PLATE 13. FIG. 14.

PLATE 13. FIG. 15, 16.

Fig. 15, is the pattern of a very handsome long pointed cape, commonly worn to rich silk cloaks and sometimes alone; when that is the case, they are frequently made of velvet or fine cloth, and trimmed with fur or swan’s down.

The cape is made as follows:—Sew together three breadths of the material, eight nails and a half long and about eight nails wide (of course a less number of breadths will be required, if the material be much wider, as merinos, &c.), to each end of the three breadths thus sewed in one length, add another breadth, which, as in Fig. 15 (see A), is eight and a half nails deep at one end, and twelve nails deep at the other, the material being cut in a straight line from B to C.

A GOOD SHAPE FOR A
LADY’S RIDING COLLAR,
TO BE SEWED TO
A HABIT-SHIRT.

PLATE 13. FIG. 17.

These collars are made of a doubled piece of lawn, which being run together and turned inside out, are neatly stitched near the edge like gentlemen’s collars.

A CHEMISETTE DE VIERGE,
MODESTY, OR TUCKER.

PLATE 13. FIG. 18.

This is but a quarter of the article, and when the paper pattern is made from the drawing, it should be doubled, so that when cut, it forms half the chemisette, which if it is again laid on a piece of muslin or net doubled, the two sides may be cut at once. [Pg 98]

Chemisettes are worn under evening dresses, and are trimmed with blonde, lace, or muslin edging, which should just be seen above the gown. The part marked S is the shoulder. The chemisette is put on over the head and draws round the waist by a tape.

A BABY’S COLLARETTE.

PLATE 13. FIG. 19.

This is particularly neat for a baby’s pelisse, and may be sewed on to the shoulder-piece. (Fig. 5).

This collarette should be piped all round, and edged with work, excepting the curve, which goes half round the neck. Two half collarettes must be cut, one for the right, and one for the left side of the neck.

A HABIT-SHIRT.

PLATE 13. FIG. 20, 23.

Fig. 23 represents half of the back of a habit-shirt. Fig. 20, one of the two fronts which are sewed on to the back at the shoulder, the parts marked in each figure, S, being the corresponding pieces.

[Pg 99] This back, which, of course is cut in the whole piece, has a tape passed through a hem at the bottom, which tape also passes through the hems at the bottom of the two fronts, and ties before.

This figure represents one of the fronts of the habit-shirt; the part marked D is the front, S is the shoulder; where the two fronts meet they may be fastened by small buttons, and sometimes work is let in, or narrow tucks made, which have a neat effect. Below the shoulder, and down the front, it is finished with a narrow hem. A collar may be sewed to it at the neck, by a mantua-maker’s hem.

A MOURNING COLLAR.

PLATE 13. FIG. 21.

Made of clear muslin, white crape, widow’s lawn, net or tulle, with a broad hem one nail deep all round.

The hems to these collars are generally laid on, by being run at the edge, and then turned back and hemmed, this is a much neater plan than any other. Sometimes two collars with deep hems are worn one above the other.

For mourning collars of net with either a broad hem, frills with deep hems, or gaufiered frills are used. If the mourning is very deep, the muslin collar is covered with black crape.

A ROUND CAPE
OR TIPPET.

PLATE 13. FIG. 22.

No scale can be made to this tippet, as the size is only determined according to the purpose for which it is to be used. Form a perfect circle, and slit from the outer edge of the circle A to the centre B, after which cut out a piece for the neck. This is a very good shape for school girls, it also makes a useful dressing or combing tippet. [Pg 100]

A HABIT-SHIRT.

PLATE 13. FIG. 24.

This is a very simple neat shape for a habit-shirt. T is the front, and D the middle of the back. It is all cut in one piece, and the part marked B may be laid against the selvage; S is the shoulder.

Cut in a straight line from C to A, and square the corner off at A.

A PELERINE.

PLATE 13. FIG. 25.

The back is on the cross and the front is straight.

PLATE 13. FIG. 26.

This is a very simple collar, and much worn by persons of quiet unassuming habits. It is composed of two oblong strips of muslin, hemmed all round with rather a broad hem, and sewed together at the ends half the way up. Each oblong is four nails long and about three nails deep.

A REMARKABLY PRETTY PELERINE
FOR A MORNING DRESS.

PLATE 13. FIG. 27.

[Pg 101]

PLATE 13. FIG. 28.

This is the pattern of a very handsome long pelerine. The part marked S must be laid along the selvage. Of course this is in two parts, both of which will nearly lie side by side on the opposite selvages of the same breadth.

A HANDSOME SHAPE FOR A PELERINE
WITH A SQUARE COLLAR.

PLATE 13. FIG. 29.

The letters E, F, J, and D, point out the shape of the upper collar.

PLATE 13. FIG. 30.

This is a frill to go over each shoulder of a cape or pelerine, as a finish, and is peculiarly adapted to Fig. 25, 27.

[Pg 102] Draw a straight line across from A to B, which are situated one nail within the corners of the square.

Curve, according to the pattern, from the corner to E. The cross part is then fulled on to the pelerine, leaving about two nails from the front and back points.

A CAPE FOR A
BABY’S PELISSE.

PLATE 13. FIG. 31.

ANOTHER SHOULDER-PIECE,
OR NEAT COLLAR.

PLATE 13. FIG. 32.

If used for the latter, it may be made with a hem all round, through which a coloured or white satin ribbon may be drawn of about twopenny width. A single or double frill of net should be sewed round it, with a corresponding hem for ribbon. This frill, after the hem is made, should be a full nail deep.

A MODESTY, OR TUCKER.

PLATE 13. FIG. 33.

This little front, or modesty, is to put inside a low dress, and may be made very prettily. The materials most in use for them are cambric, lawn, muslin, net, tulle, satin, or crape. They are generally tucked, or [Pg 103] in folds, or frilled into strips of insertion-work, either the length or the width-way, and always trimmed with a little work or edging on the top. When made, they are about three nails deep, and five nails wide at the top, and tapering to three nails at the waist. They are almost always made the straight way, particularly when they are intended to wash.

A SIMPLE COLLAR.

PLATE 13. FIG. 34.

This is a particularly simple pretty collar, and is frequently made of net or muslin, trimmed with narrow work or muslin. It has a broad hem all round, through which satin ribbon is passed. The collar is merely a straight piece, eight nails deep and fourteen nails wide. Double it in half length-wise, and also width-wise to find the centre, and then cut in a straight line from A B, at the top, to the centre. The points, A B, each fall over, as seen in the Plate, and give the appearance of a second collar. The ends should be a little hollowed out, to make the whole set better.

ANOTHER HANDSOME PELERINE.

PLATE 13. FIG. 35.

The corner or tip to be rounded off, beginning at two nails from A, at the bottom, to one nail above A, at the side.

A ROUND COLLAR.

PLATE 13. FIG. 36.

This is a small and simple shape for a round collar, with a smaller one upon it. When the larger is cut, the lesser one may be cut by the eye, only taking notice to shape it off more abruptly in front than the other.

[Pg 104]

A SCHOOL-GIRL’S TIPPET.

PLATE 16. FIG. 37, 38.

This is an economical mode of making tippets for poor children, or charity schools, of remnants of cloth, print, &c. Cut a circle in paper, of the right size, and pin it on the carpet or table cloth, whilst you arrange strips of your material on it, in regular lines, as in the Fig. 37; two or three strips may cross each other at right angles; between them should be other straight pieces, and then triangular bits will fill up the circle. Black, orange, crimson, blue, and brown cloth, look very well.

ANOTHER
SCHOOL-GIRL’S TIPPET.

PLATE 16. FIG. 39. (Near to FIG. 10, 16.)

This is made of the list of flannel, the selvage of cloth, or any other warm material, and is sewed on to calico; cut a lining in the shape required, and beginning at the bottom, place layer above layer, or strip above strip, something in the way that the many capes of a coachman’s great coat are done: the list or cloth is not put on quite flat, but is a very little fulled. It is then lined with flannel or cloth, and is a most comfortable and strong tippet.

PETTICOATS.

PLATE 14.

Petticoats are made of calico, twill, dimity, cambric, and jaconet muslin, sometimes for mourning, or for wearing under thin dresses of silk and satin: for the middling and lower classes, they are of calico, strong dimity, calimanco, stuff, and bombazine: they are made in various ways, which will be described in the following pages, and the patterns given: the figures and sizes of persons differ so essentially that scales will not be attempted.

Petticoats are in three distinct parts—the skirt, the body, and the sleeves, the varieties of each will be treated of in their turn.

SKIRTS.

Skirts have generally from two, to two and a half-breadths in them, according to the width of the material of which they are made: they are sometimes finished at the bottom with a deep hem, three nails broad, tucks, or worked muslin. Sometimes they are bought with cotton runners, woven in them at the bottom, six or eight nails deep, which make the dress stand out, and if the gown is of a clinging material, causes it to hang better. Skirts are generally made with the opening behind, but for elderly persons or servants, it is at the sides, the seams being left unsewed for about four nails from the top; sometimes they are furnished with pockets on one or both sides; for a description of which, see Pockets. Skirts may be set on to the body, either equally full all round, plain under the arms, and full at the front and back, or with all the fulness behind. Servants frequently wear their petticoats merely set into a tape round the waist, without any body, and with or without tape shoulder-straps, to keep them up. Under or middle petticoats are also made in this manner.

BODIES OR WAISTS.

These are made either full or tight to the figure.

PLATE 14.

[Pg 105] Tight or plain bodies consist of five parts: the front, two side-pieces, and two backs (see Fig. 1). The front is always cut on the cross, and reaches from below one arm to the other: the side-pieces are also cut crosswise on one side, and straight on the other, the straight side being joined to the front, and that which is cross being stitched to the backs, which are straight behind. Fig. 1 represents a tight body made up, for a small person. Observe that the various directions of the lines drawn on the engravings, represents the selvage-way of the material, as a better guide for the inexperienced. In making up, all the parts should be back-stitched together: the band ought to be very strong; it is often made of webbing or stout tape. Petticoat bodies may be made with or without sleeves, according to the taste of the wearer.

Full bodies are made in a similar manner to tight ones, excepting that two nails more are added in width to the front, so that when laid open it is ten nails and a half at its greatest extent, instead of only seven and a half, like the plain body, and half a nail is also given to each back. The front is cut straight instead of cross, in the full bodies. (See Plate 14, Fig. 2.)

SLEEVES.

For figures of sleeves, see Plate 12 and the descriptions annexed.

NURSING PETTICOATS.

PLATE 14.

For the convenience of those mothers who nurse their infants, the petticoat body in front may be opened in various ways.

PLATE 14. FIG. 3.

The most general mode is simply to have the front of the body in two pieces, so as to open in the middle before, hemming it on each side, and letting the parts tie or button together at the top: it is as well to set the two sides of the front into the band, so that they may overlap each other, in order to guard against cold. This petticoat fastens behind in the usual manner.

PLATE 14. FIG. 4.

Another approved method is that of having the petticoat open on each side in front, so as to be close at the back. This petticoat body is made in four parts: one back, two side pieces, one front. The back piece is cut the straight way, so as to let A B, Fig. 4, lie selvage-wise.

The shoulder-straps connect the top of the side-piece with the top of the back. The front of the body is in one piece, being eight nails wide at the top, sloped down to five nails and a half at the bottom; it is four nails deep in the middle, but being hollowed out, is half a nail deeper at the sides. This front has a broad hem all round it, and is [Pg 106] set into a band, which is attached to the front breadth of the skirt, the seam on each side of this breadth being open for the space of four nails. Tapes are attached to the band of the back breadth, and tie in front; buttons are set on, to within a nail of the end of the band below the side pieces, to which the band of the front buttons on each side, and by this means overlaps the opening: button-holes are also made at the two corners of the front (see X Z), which correspond with the buttons on the shoulder-strap, Z. The left hand side of Fig. 4 represents the petticoat with the body drawn forward, as if for the purpose of tying it, while the opposite side shows it as if thrown back, ready to put the arm into the sleeve. The front is unfastened and has fallen down.

GOWNS.

PLATE 14.

Gowns being a part of dress much influenced by the fashion or custom of the day, will not be fully entered on in this work, as it would be impossible to give the variety of form and size which is seen in them, and equally impossible, were a selection attempted, to please all tastes, or suit all figures: a few simple patterns for those kinds which are independent of fashion, and especially for those worn by servants, and persons engaged in laborious employments, with a very few other plain ones, will alone come within the limits of the work.

Those commonly worn by servants, and the working classes, are of print, linen, stuff, and for best, light ginghams, merino, or bombazine; ladies wear muslin, gingham, silk, merino, and for dress, either lighter or richer materials, as satins, velvets, gauzes, &c.

GENERAL OBSERVATIONS.

The bodies of working gowns should be lined with strong linen, which is preferable to calico, as it does not shrink in the washing; they should be of dark and good washing colours, deep blue and lilac are the best for wear.

It is a good plan to line silk and merino, or stuff gown bodies, with strong linen or brown Holland, as it keeps them in shape, by preventing them from stretching.

In buying striped dresses, be careful that the stripes run selvage-wise, otherwise they are very unbecoming. In making up the bodies, the stripes should lie in the same direction, and not crosswise from shoulder to shoulder.

Checks or plaids are rarely becoming when they are large: for children they should be particularly small and narrow, the colours should not be too bright or gay, but sufficiently contrasted and decided, to give a clear clean effect; plaids of which the colours are pale and indistinct never look very well; and after wearing a short time appear faded and shabby.

Checks are becoming to tall people, and stripes to short ones, as the former rather diminish, while the latter give an appearance of greater length to the figure than is natural to it, in the same way that a striped paper makes a room look higher, than one which is checked, or of which the pattern goes round instead of from top to bottom.

Broad hems and deep flounces also tend to lessen the height, it may therefore be taken as a general rule that tall persons should endeavour to add to their width, by making all the accompaniments to their dress as full and wide, as is consistent with the reigning taste, while those who are short, should let all theirs be as moderate as possible.

The same observations will also apply to stout and thin persons; for the former, all trimmings of the bodies in front, such as rouleaux, folds, and straps, should, generally speaking, be carried from the [Pg 107] shoulder to the waist, in preference to being laid on crosswise; while with those who are of a slighter make, it is merely a matter of fancy, only remarking that every advantage of fulness should be given them.

If the trimming of a dress does not exactly match it, care should be taken to select it darker than the dress itself. Waistbands, when shaded, or of two colours, should be always worn with the darkest shade or colour at the bottom of the waist.

The complexion should determine the choice of colours. Persons of a sallow or muddy complexion should carefully avoid bright and glaring, or on the other hand, undecided colours; such as yellow, cherry colour, light green, buff, or drab; clear tints are more suitable to them, as white, light blue, violet, or black.

Those with pale but clear complexions, may wear all the shades of rose colour, primrose, apricot, buff, light green, lilac, brown, and violet.

Fair persons with a colour, will find few shades decidedly unbecoming; perhaps it will be as well for them not to wear buff.

Dark olive or brown complexions should avoid either very dark or very light colours, but they should be careful to select clear tints: pink, geranium, and violet are the most decidedly suitable to them.

On all occasions let the old saying be kept in mind,

These remarks may seem superfluous to some, but as attention to the minutiæ of dress adds much to a lady-like and refined appearance, and as an endeavour to please by an agreeable exterior, does not necessarily involve a disposition to vanity and frivolity, it is hoped that they will not be hastily condemned.

GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON
CUTTING OUT DRESSES.

It would be useless to form scales for the different kinds of dresses, as shapes vary so much, therefore none will be introduced, excepting for children and young persons; as, however, this article of dress forms one of the most important parts of a person’s wardrobe, all general observations for cutting out, that can be reduced to rule, will be given as clearly as the subject will admit of, at the same time, it is strongly recommended to all those who can afford it, to have their best dresses invariably made by a mantua-maker, as those which are cut out at home seldom fit so comfortably, or look so well, as when made by persons in constant practice. To those who have large families or limited means, it certainly is a great saving of expense having them made at home, and to such, the following rules may be useful. It would be very advisable, as a practice, for persons little acquainted with cutting out, to purchase cheap print for poor children’s dress and by fitting them on, much experience and nicety might be acquired at little waste or expense.

In making a dress for any body, the following measurements should be taken with a piece of common tape.

• From the waist to the bottom of the skirt.
• From the nape of the neck to the waist behind.
• Round the waist.
• Round the wrist.
• From the shoulder to the wrist, with the arm bent.

In sending to London or elsewhere for a dress or riding habit, of which the exact measure is required, observe the following directions for transmitting measure in inches:— [Pg 108]

• 1. Height of the person, observing if they stand upright.
• 2. The length of the arm from the centre of the back to the elbow,
• and thence to the knuckles.
• 3. The circumference of the body, over the full part of the chest.
• 4. The circumference of the smallest part of the waist.
• 5. Length of the nape of the neck to the waist, and thence to the ground.
• 6. From the front of the armpit to the centre of the bosom, thence
• to the chest.
• 7. From the nape of the neck, over the shoulder, to the centre of
• the bosom, and thence to the waist immediately under it.

PLATE 14.

The bodies of dresses contain various parts, called the fronts, the backs, the side-pieces, the shoulder-straps, the shoulder-pieces, collars, &c., &c. These parts are variously employed and differently cut out, according to the style of the dress, sometimes being on the cross, and sometimes on the straight way.

Observe that the lines in the engravings denote, by their direction, which way the selvage side of the material runs. For the purpose of making this quite clear, let it be supposed that these lines represent stripes which run along or down the selvage.

Linings should always be cut to lie the same direction as the material of the gown.

In cutting out a dress, it is usual to fit the lining upon the figure, and cut out the gown from it, though, with an inexperienced person, it would be advisable to fit on the gown also, if the dress is to be full, or in folds.

Gowns are high, low, three-quartered, plain, or full, open before or behind, all of which sorts will be treated of in their proper order.

SIDE-PIECES.

PLATE 14. FIG. 12, 13.

Most dresses have side-pieces or bits under the arm, to join the backs to the fronts. These side-pieces are cut variously. For stout persons, the selvage-way or stripe should run from the extreme point at the bottom of the back of the side-piece, A, towards the middle of the top, B, of Fig. 12. For slight figures, the selvage-way or stripe should run along, or nearly along the front of the side-piece, thus A B, in Fig. 13.

The size of a side-piece depends much upon the figure and fashion. It should never, however, be brought much forwarder than under the middle of the arm-hole. It varies very much at the back, sometimes being brought but just behind the arm-hole, at others to within a nail of the middle of the back. The side-piece is sometimes cut straight at the back, and at others in a kind of half-arch; the latter is required for stout persons.

BACK SHOULDER-PIECES.

PLATE 14. FIG. 5.

These are not necessary to the set of the gown, and are seldom introduced, unless it is the reigning fashion, or for the better cutting up of the material. When these are used, of course shoulder-straps are unnecessary, as they connect the backs with the fronts. A represents a back shoulder-piece.

SHOULDER-STRAPS.

PLATE 14. FIG. 6, 7.

These are mere straps to connect the fronts and backs, and lie over the [Pg 109] shoulder. The straps are always double and are generally sloped at each end, so as to be wider next the sleeve than at the shoulder or neck (see Fig. 7).

SKIRTS.

These vary very much as to the number of breadths, according to fashion and material. Thin clinging materials, as muslin, require more breadths than thick or standing out articles of dress, as silk-gauze, velvet, &c.; six, seven, or eight breadths are worn now for full dresses, but formerly four breadths were deemed sufficient. They are usually lined with thin glazed muslin, unless the dress is very heavy as stuff, merino, &c., it is economical to line the skirt, as it keeps the dress cleaner and makes it look better if turned.

A PLAIN HIGH BODY.

PLATE 14. FIG. 8.

For stout persons, indeed for the generality of figures, it is preferable to have the fronts of the body in two pieces, with a piping up the middle. In cutting out a high plain body, lay the material upon the person as follows:—

Let the selvage-way or stripe of the cloth lie in the direction from the extreme point of the shoulder, A (see Fig. 8), to the middle of the waist, B. In doing this, pin it at a sufficient distance from the selvage of the material to allow of plenty to cover the front. Thus, pin the material on at A B, which is some distance from the selvage, C D. Stroke the material up to the neck in front and hollow out at the neck, putting pins at C E. The front is thus thrown quite on the cross, up the middle. Do the same on the opposite side. Hollow out towards the arm, and cut off where it meets the side-piece. The back pieces, Fig. 9, always have the selvage up the middle, and are properly fitted to the figure till they meet the side-pieces.

In making up, a piping is laid along each seam, and the edges of the lining, and the dress should be well overcast. The sleeves have piping also round them. The backs should have broad hems, and, together with the waist, be lined with a strong tape or calico.

A FULL FRENCH HIGH BODY.

PLATE 14. FIG. 10, 11, 14.

This body is also in two parts in front. The material is pinned for the selvage-way, or stripe to run from the side of the neck or collar bone, A, to the middle of the waist, B (in Fig. 10), so as to throw the part up the front but slightly on the cross. Put strong pins in at A B C, to keep the material firm, and then commence laying the material in plaits (see Fig. 11), slanting from the shoulder towards the waist, folding them much deeper at the waist than at the top; five, six, or seven of these plaits are sufficient. In laying them along they should be arranged so that when the last plait is formed, and the plain part of the body pinned under the arm, the selvage-way or stripe should lie almost parallel with, or along with, the waist (see L M, in Fig. 11).

The backs, Fig. 14, are always selvage-way up the middle; the plaits, about three in number, should lie from the shoulder to the middle of the waist in a fan-like direction. They will almost form themselves properly at the top on the shoulder, if first properly pinned on the waist, and the material held up, and slightly pulled or shaken above the shoulder, with one hand, while the other arranges them. They will naturally fall in deeper folds below than above. [Pg 110]

A WRAP HIGH DRESS.

PLATE 14. FIG. 15.

This has two fronts, to be cut out as follows:—

Lay the merino, or other material, selvage or stripe-wise from the top of the shoulder, A, to a little beyond the middle of the waist, so as to throw the body a little on the cross up the middle.

The plaits must be formed, while on the person, one after another, slanting from the shoulder, across the middle, to the opposite side of the waist. These plaits should be so folded, as to make the plain part, under the arm, fall selvage-wise along the band.

The back is made to correspond, the selvage is straight up the back, and the material being held tightly above the shoulder at the top, with one hand, the three or four plaits are the more easily arranged by the other, and should be folded over more deeply at the bottom than upon the shoulder. These plaits should exactly meet the others on the shoulder.

The backs and fronts join under the arm without side-pieces. In making up, the plaits should be secured on the shoulder, with a pipe or strap, and again secured about half a nail on each side of the shoulder. The fronts cross, or wrap over, and are well secured to the waistband.

A HIGH FULL GOWN,
TO OPEN IN FRONT.

PLATE 14. FIG. 16, 17.

These are particularly suitable for house-maids, dairy or kitchen-maids, chair and washerwomen; they should be made of the strongest print, at 8d. or 1s. per yard. It is bad economy to buy a cheap poor material for a working dress, under the idea that it will do very well for common purposes, when it is of importance that they should stand a good deal of wear and tear.

For a young person, the skirt is in three breadths of extra-width print, of about eighteen nails; the seams must be sewed up, making one come in the front, which must overlap half a nail down the whole length of the skirt, leaving the hem or seam open for about four nails below the waist. The body is six pieces, having one back, two fronts, two side-pieces, and one collar.

The two fronts are selvage-wise up the middle, and are cut as follows:—Pin the material selvage-wise at A, and at the bottom, lay it in plaits or fullings along the shoulder, to lie towards the waist, and smooth the plain part to fit the shape, till it meets the side-piece, cut it off, and hollow it under the arm. The back-piece, Fig. 17, is in one piece with the selvage, to lie up the middle; therefore, pin it firmly at the middle of the top, A, and at the waist just below, B. Lay the material on each side in fullings or plaits, pinning them down here and there, and, after arranging them at the top, along the back and shoulders, smooth down the plain part, hollow out at the arm-holes, and cut along the shoulders. Cut the side-piece next, and then make a neat simple collar; one like Fig. 7, in Plate 13, would be very suitable. In making up, after cutting out your tight lining, lay each part of the gown upon each piece of the lining, and begin to stitch strongly together all the pieces, laying a piping up every seam, and over-casting the rough edges inside, to make them wear well and look neat. The sleeves are short (see Fig. 24, in Plate 12). The collar and arm-holes are also piped.

Make a broad hem up each side of the front, and put the body into the band; let the fulness be pretty even along the piping on the shoulder, but bring it rather towards the middle of the waistband, in front.

The fulness behind is regular along the shoulders and collar, but drawn towards the centre of the back, at the band. Sew the body on the skirt, [Pg 111] put strings or bands, of the same material, of about one nail wide, to tie the dress at the throat. The waistband is one nail deep and about eleven nails long, and can either button or fasten with a strong hook and eye in front.

A HIGH BODY,
TO OPEN IN FRONT.

PLATE 14. FIG. 18.

This shape is often worn by elderly ladies, sometimes by servants, and is convenient, as it enables the wearer to dress herself without the assistance of a maid. The gown is open down the two seams at the sides for about four or five nails, so that the front ties round the waist like an apron, being of course well fulled in front into a band, to which strings are attached. The slits at the sides form pocket holes.

The body is sewed on to the skirt behind and opens in front. It has one back, which, if full, is cut with the selvage-way or stripe to lie straight down from the neck to the waist, but if plain, it should be on the cross. The fronts are generally on the cross with the material cut to lie with the stripe or selvage-way, from the extreme point of the shoulder to the middle of the waist. The fronts are continued so as to pin down at the waist, one across the other, over which the front breadth or apron ties.

PLAIN LOW BODY.

Pin the material with the selvage-way or stripe, to lie from the extreme point of the shoulder to the middle of the waist, so as to throw the body quite on the cross up the middle, which is joined with a piping. The backs are always selvage-wise up the middle. Join the backs and fronts with a piping on the shoulder, also at the seams, for the side-pieces. Stitch up the plaits that are made at the bosoms.

ANOTHER FRENCH
LOW PLAIN FRONT.

PLATE 14. FIG. 19.

This is in five pieces, two backs, one front, and two side-pieces. The front is all in one piece, and in cutting it out, the material is pinned with the selvage-way or stripe up the middle. Pin it firmly at A and B, at the top and bottom of the middle of the body. Lay the material along to the shoulders, and pin it down again at C. Slope with the scissors from the point of the shoulder to a peak down at the front. The backs are likewise cut selvage-wise up the middle, and peaked from the back to the shoulders: the side-pieces are joined to the front and back by a piping. Make the bosom plaits and stitch them up.

VARIOUS MODES OF TRIMMING
LOW BODIES WHEN TIGHT
TO THE FIGURE.

PLATE 14.

Tight or plain bodies require some ornament or finish to set them off, a few neat methods of putting on folds, &c., will therefore be explained.

Plate 14, Fig. 20, represents a plain body with the folds sewed on. These folds are in two parts one for each side of the body in front. They are cut crosswise and are only suitable to those gowns which are not of a washing material, they should be from nine to ten nails wide, and as long as will reach from the shoulder to the middle of the waist. In making them up stitch them firmly down on the shoulder in regular plaits, and again about a nail in front of the shoulder. Arrange them as regularly at the waist, sewing them firmly into the middle of the band, exactly to meet or correspond with the folds of the other side.

Plate 14, Fig. 21, represents a plain body with loose folds upon it, the body is made exactly like that of a petticoat, the front may or may not be in two parts, according to pleasure, and convenience; if there is [Pg 112] a joining, a piping should be laid between the two parts. If the dress is of a washing material, the folds should be the straight way, and the cross-way if it is not.

The straight folds are merely a piece of muslin or print, six and a half or seven nails long and about seven nails wide, gathered at the top, and neatly biassed two or three times at intervals of half a nail; the upper gathering is then sewed very strongly on the shoulder, where the front joins the shoulder-strap; the bottom is simply hemmed. When worn, this piece is folded in large or small plaits, according to the taste of the wearer, and neatly pinned across under the waist ribbon. This method of making muslin, gingham, or print dresses, is very convenient for the washerwoman.

The loose cross-way folds are very similar. The piece of silk, or other material, must be six nails and a half or seven nails long, and nine nails wide. It is secured, both at the top and bottom, in the proper folds, as in this instance no advantage can accrue from the piece being left unconfined at the bottom, as in the washing gowns. The top is sewed on the shoulder, and, when worn, the folds are pinned under the waist ribbon, as in the kind described above.

Other modes of ornamenting plain bodies are so various, it would be endless to have plates to illustrate each—suffice it to say that bands or rouleaux of satin, silk, gauze, &c., are often laid in various forms. For white gowns, straps, with a neat piping at one or both sides, are generally made; also puffings, frillings, and flouncings. For silks, merinos, &c., satin, silk, or velvet pipings, to straps of the same material as the gown, look well. Sometimes gaufiered or quilled ribbon or lace is employed. For children, braid, bobbin, or coarse netting silk is laid or worked on, in every variety of pattern.

A FRENCH FULL LOW BODY.

PLATE 14. FIG. 22, 23.

This dress is composed of a kind of plain shoulder-piece round the top, to which the body is fulled all round. This piece is cut as follows:—

Lay the material with the selvage-way or stripe down the middle of the top, in front (see A, Fig. 22), to the extreme point of the shoulder, B, and pin it firmly down. Begin to cut at E, which is at a little distance within B, and slope it along to the middle, A, making it a little on the cross. Cut again, according to taste, either in a peak or slope, from B to D. The backs, which are made to accord with the fronts, are quite straight at the bottom, but a little sloped or hollowed at the top. The fulling for the body is cut variously, according to the texture of the dress. Cotton, muslin, or other thin dresses should have the fulness set in with the selvage-way up the middle; but silk, merino, and other thick dresses are made otherwise. This body is sometimes set in plaits, and is exceedingly pretty. In this case, the width-way of the material lies up the middle.

A GRECIAN LOW BODY.

PLATE 14. FIG. 24, 25.

This is a remarkably pretty shape, but requires great nicety in arranging it, to make it fit well.

Turn up the corner of your material half-handkerchief way until sufficiently wide, A to B, to reach amply from the middle of the top of the body in front, across the bosom, to the shoulder. The folded part, A C, must next be laid down the middle of the front. Pin A to the top of the middle, and B to the shoulder, and begin to make four or five plaits to lie in the same direction, making them swell more in the middle than at the ends. In arranging these plaits fold in plenty of the material, or they will not set well. Smooth the remainder to the figure, and hollow out under the arm. As the material is double, both sides are thus cut at once. The plaits should be secured twice or three [Pg 113] times on the shoulder. The backs, as usual, selvage-wise down the middle, and a few plaits may or may not be added along the top.

A SIMPLE FULL BODY.

Let the width-way of the material lie up the middle in front, and plait it in straight regular folds from top to bottom, letting the last fold be rather deeper, in order to throw the plain part of the body more on the cross. These plaits or fullings should slant a little towards the middle in a fan-like shape.

FULL LOW BODY.

PLATE 14. FIG. 26, 27, 28, 29.

This is only worn by very young persons and children. It is made nearly like a full petticoat body. The front is in one piece, and may be either the straight or the cross-way, according to pleasure. That in the Plate is a good average size for a girl of ten years old.

The pattern should be cut first in paper. Fig. 27 is the front, D being the doubled part. The measurements need not be repeated, as they are quite accurately given in the Plate. The reason why the front is so much sloped at the lower part, is to make it set better than it would do if left straight; and it is considered preferable to slope the bottom rather than the top of the body: of course it is gathered and sewed to the band in the usual manner. Fig. 28 is one back, and Fig. 29 a side-piece. In making up, if the top of the body is set into a narrow band, instead of having a string-case, the fulness should be pretty equal all round, only making it a little plainer towards the shoulders, but at the bottom of the waist the gathers should be drawn towards the centre, both in front and at the back, which gives a becoming fan-like appearance to it.

VELVET DRESSES.

PLATE 14. FIG. 30.

Velvet dresses have frequently a breadth of satin put in behind, as velvet injures by being sat upon. The great object is to put in the satin so that it shall not be seen when the person who wears it is standing or walking. There are various methods of doing this. The following is one of the best.

The piece of satin is sewed in at the back, in addition to the full number of breadths of velvet. After joining the breadths together, and lining the whole skirt, the two back breadths of velvet are sewed together at the bottom for the depth of about half a yard, the satin being plaited up within them, and not seen at all.

At the top the opening or pocket-hole behind is made in the satin, but not in the velvet, as the two back breadths of velvet are left open all the way up from the half-yard at the bottom, previously mentioned, having the satin between them. The gathers of velvet are sewed in the usual manner into the band, but the satin is sewed back on each side within it, so that when the gown is unfastened the pocket-hole gapes open, and the dress has the appearance given in Fig. 30. S, in the Plate, means the satin, and the V, velvet breadths of the skirt. Instead of putting in a satin breadth, some persons have the back breadth of velvet wadded, which is said to answer well.

NURSING GOWNS.

These must vary according to the pattern of the gown. In a body with folds laid on, the openings must be made in the bosom-gore on each side, which button up, having a fold or flap of silk behind, to prevent any danger of taking cold. [Pg 114]

Sometimes a tight body may be made cut in a point from the shoulders to one nail above the waist: over this, full loose folds, confined at the shoulder, may be pinned over at the waist.

A third may be made like a pelisse body, open in the middle of the front.

CHILDREN’S FROCKS
AND TUNICS.

PLATE 14.

These should be made of strong and washing materials, as children should be allowed to have full exercise, and not be restrained from running and rolling about, both in doors and out: for this purpose (unless from its extreme delicacy a child requires much additional warmth) cloth, merino, and stuffs are not good or suitable for them; neither are silk, velvet, or gauze, as they soon become dirty and look tumbled, and the child cannot play with ease or comfort.

Jeans, twills, prints, Holland, and nankeen are most proper for the morning dress, and white or coloured muslin, or fine twill, and sometimes washing silks, for an evening.

For children’s simple frocks, refer to the Scales belonging to the description of baby’s frocks.

CHILDREN’S SIMPLE
PLAIN FROCKS.

PLATE 14. FIG. 31, 32, 33, 34.

This is the most simple body that can be made, and equally suited to boys and girls.

The body is in three parts—namely, two backs and one front.

The front is cut along the width of the material, and joins the backs on the top of the shoulders and below the arms, so as to require neither side-pieces nor shoulder-straps. This front lies quite plain to the figure, but the backs are made to have two plaits and a broad hem. This body can be ornamented in various ways, either with braid sewed on, or by capes. A very pretty cape is made by cutting a diamond (see Fig. 33), and hollowing it out on the inside exactly to correspond with the neck of the frock.

Fig. 31 represents half the body in front.

Fig. 32 represents half the body behind, when cut out.

Fig. 33 represents the diamond for the cape.

Fig. 34 represents the front, when made up.

The sleeves may be plain, like petticoat sleeves, having three frills laid upon them, and braided at the edge. The skirt to a frock of this size would be about nine nails, including the deep hem of two nails, and about two and a half-breadths wide, each breadth being thirteen nails wide. If there are pockets in front, the slits may be braided round, and are two nails and a half deep. In making up, the body and cape are sewed firmly together to a band at the top, which is ornamented by two lines of braid. The skirt is evenly gathered behind, the gathers lying close together. The remainder is laid in regular plaits all round.

The band round the neck is ten nails long, cut crosswise, and the waistband ten nails long, cut selvage-wise.

A CHILD’S FULL FROCK.

PLATE 14. FIG. 35, 36.

This body is also in three parts, the front and two backs. They are very much fulled, and are both cut the width-way of the material, so that the selvage-way goes up the middle, both before and behind.

For a child of three, four, or five years old, cut the body as follows:—

Cut for each back a piece of six nails along the width-way, and two [Pg 115] nails and three-quarters down the selvage-way of the material. Cut for the front a piece of thirteen nails along the width-way, and two nails and three-quarters down the selvage-way of the material. Fold the front in two, very evenly, and lay the two backs upon the two ends of the double front, and pin the four thicknesses together, so as to lie quite firmly and evenly one upon the other, as in Fig. 35. Then with the scissors, after sloping one nail for below the arm, A B, begin to cut, B D, for the arm-hole, cutting into the cloth about half a nail at C. Slope from D, which is half a nail from the top, to E, for the shoulder, letting the part, D E, be three-quarters of a nail. Hollow down from E to F one nail, letting F to G be quite straight, for the bosoms and backs; from G to the bottom is one nail and three-quarters deep.

In making up, after sewing the backs to the front and putting in the sleeves, begin to full in the body to the band round the neck, leaving it plain both before and behind, for about one nail and a quarter from the sleeve.

This band is about eleven nails long, and should be cut on the cross; being doubled in quarters, mark the points for the middle behind and before, and for the two shoulders.

The waistband is also eleven nails selvage-way, and one nail and a quarter wide. The body is gathered at the waist, exactly to correspond with the top.

The skirt of two and a half-breadths, of thirteen nails width, is gathered (not plaited) all round quite evenly. The sleeves are the usual shape (see Plate 12, Fig. 27 or 32). A braid may be laid along the top and band, round the sleeves and the broad hem, and the whole is completed.

CHILD’S SIMPLE
THREE-QUARTERS DRESS.

PLATE 14. FIG. 37.

The body has one front and two backs.

For the front, cut a piece of thirteen nails width-way, and two nails and three-quarters selvage-way of the material; and the back pieces each six nails width-way, and two nails and three-quarters selvage-way of the material.

In cutting the arm-holes, leave one nail and three-quarters under the arm, and cut into the cloth three-quarters of a nail. Leave nearly three-quarters of a nail for the shoulders. In making up the frock, prepare a piping of ten nails and a half long, and a waistband of eleven nails and a half. Divide the piping into four parts, and then begin laying the plaits to go from the shoulders rather towards the middle of the waist, as in Fig. 10, sewing them firmly with piping at the top. The back is similar to the front. The skirt is laid in regular plaits all round. The sleeves are fulled or plaited evenly at the shoulder, and confined by a strap a little below it. A frill may be put round the sleeve.