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Title: 裨海紀遊 Author: active 1691-1697 Yonghe Yu Release date: May 6, 2017 [eBook #54670] Language: Chinese Credits: Produced by Miaoyin Lin *** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 裨海紀遊 *** Produced by Miaoyin Lin 卷上 卷中 卷下 卷上 余自辛未春入閩,由建寧、延津以迄榕城;初秋,又自榕城歷興、泉至漳郡之 石馬;未幾,又之漳浦、海澄、龍巖、寧洋諸屬邑暨各沿海村落,還至石馬; 又以扁舟渡廈門,五日而返。壬申。再返榕城,留居司馬王君仲千署中。蓋八 閩之轍跡已歷六矣。逮癸酉秋,有泰寧之役,維舟邵武城下,信宿而返。其明 年又之汀之武平,由延津溯流而上,登鐵巖之高,涉九礲之險;半歲之間, 往返四過,凡山川幽窅之區,罔不足歷而目覽焉。於是八閩遊遍矣。 我朝聲施遠被,偽鄭歸誠;臺灣遠在東海外,自洪荒迄今,未聞與中國通一譯 之貢者,迺遂郡縣其地,設官分職,輸賦貢金,䑸帆往來,絡繹海上,增八閩 而九,甚盛事也。余性耽遠遊,不避阻險,常謂臺灣已入版圖,乃不得一覽其 概,以為未慊。會丙子冬,榕城藥庫災,毀硝磺火藥五十餘萬無纖介遺。有旨 責償典守者,而臺灣之雞籠、淡水,實產石硫磺,將往採之。余欣然笑曰: 『吾事濟矣』。丁丑春王,遂戒裝行,同人言子聖平右陶、裘子紹衣、 鬍子慎履、何子襄臣、陳子子蔚、表弟趙履尊、表姪周在魯, 皆握手鄭重。有僕役徐文、余興、龍德喜請從;郊送者曹子呂陽; 同行者王君雲森也。二十四日,午刻,出南門;至大橋,會雨,留宿呂陽邸舍。 二十五日,天稍霽,行三十里,渡烏龍江,宿霧初收,江光如練;望 海口羅星塔影,如一針倒懸水中,因賦絕句:『浩蕩江波日夜流,遙 看五虎瞰山頭;海門一望三千里,只有羅星一塔浮』。晚至坊口,晤 石君某、董君贊侯;董君為諸羅令長子,石為董君渭陽,遂訂偕行。 二十六日,度相思嶺;憶余自入閩,已六過此嶺,年來齒髮益衰,憮然興感, 賦詩曰:『閩中七載作勞人,六染相思嶺上塵;獨有蒼蒼雙鬢色,經過一度一回 新』。晚宿漁溪。二十七日,曉行,肩輿在晨光薄靄中,村民攜犁牽犢, 往來隴上。余買山無日,不勝慨然!賦詩曰:『山色曉逾潔,溪聲靜自流; 人言隔隴阪,犬吠出村陬;細雨沾衣濕,輕寒動客愁;白雲真可羨, 舒捲在峰頭』。午刻至浦尾,輿夫以肩輿置小舟中,余雖乘舟,實坐輿上。 舟人持竹篙挽舟在岸上行,舟去甚疾。岸上撐船,舟中乘轎,一時兩奇事 ,僅見於此。岸旁多老榕,根株盤結,離奇萬態,有十餘樹排聯半里 而仍屬一株者。余嘗維舟其下,至今念之,愛其榮茂如昔,為賦詩曰: 『榕陰垂一畝,斤斧慨無施;臃腫多駢榦,𧐖蜷盡附枝;風霜經飽歷, 歲月自榮滋。相見長如此,曾無凋落時』?再過涵頭,煙火萬家,亦一大村 落。憶余辛未過此,噉荔甚佳,流連信宿而去;今又六年矣!晚宿興化郡。 二十八日,行莆陽道中;早麥已秀,風過成麥浪,蓋四月時令也。嶺南 春早,於此可見。賦詩曰:『曉起籃輿逐隊行,今朝差喜得春晴;翻 畦早麥初成穗,遶徑寒流自有聲;隴阪雲移青嶂合,郊原風蹴綠波平 。年來已識躬耕樂,何事勞勞又遠征』?二十九日,渡洛陽橋,至泉 郡。值陸師提督吳公英以詰朝蒞任,五營兵將兜鍪櫜鞬,臨郊列伍以 迎;而子衿亦傾城爭出,趨蹌恐後。因賦所見:『百里金戈競路斜, 紛紛鐵騎亂如麻;無端呫嗶咿唔者,也曳藍袍候使車』。晚宿郡城。 二月朔日,宿沙溪。初二日,行四十里,至劉五店,即五通渡也。渡實 支海,廣十餘里。登舟,羣風驟至,巨浪如山,帆掠水三尺,傾斜欲覆, 浪入舟中,衣冠盡溼。抵岸即廈門地,顧視日影,已墮崦嵫;復行三十里, 抵水仙宮,漏下已二十刻。旅舍隘甚,無容足地,姑就和鳳宮神廟,坐以待 曉。明日(初三日),假水師裨將公署館焉。晤蕭山來子衛,為余覓舟, 為渡海計。值大風不輟,聞萬石、虎溪二巖為廈門山水之勝,拉石君、董君、 王君往遊。至萬石岩,巨石林立,欹斜合沓,若連楹複室,而迴環曲折, 一徑可通,偪仄處,傴僂匍匐,俯首側體然後度;有時瀑流淙淙,橫拂肩袖 間,其實在澗底石下行也。洞中宏敞,在石几可憑,清泉可濯。奴子陳餚核, 歡飲竟日。抵暮,循舊路返。每值陡隘處,令一人當關,眾以猜枚鬥勝; 勝者得斬關度,童子進酒飲不勝者,至前隘處易勝者守關,而令不勝者奪之。 凡奪十七關始出洞,而新月一彎,已掛林杪矣。相共踏月歸,賦詩曰: 『何年月黑風狂夜?吹落唅岈覆一谿;詩裏未經摩詰畫,袖中難倩米顛攜;雲 流石罅疑天近,瀑濺衣裙識洞低;盤礴不知春日永,欲尋歸路幾番迷』。 初四日,復偕訪虎溪岩。登其巔,巨石大可一二畝,高十餘丈,圍圓似鼓; 曲磴緣石旁可登,有巨石斜覆鼓上,壁立插漢,位置殊怪,不知造物何以設 想,與萬石岩各擅其奇。賦詩曰:『絕頂多奇石,巑岏聚一叢;懸崖臨巨壑, 疊嶂吼長風;屐折危欄轉,笻支曲磴通;扶桑遙在望,落日晚潮紅』。 巖畔頹垣小徑,雲是偽鄭公子錦舍、聰舍讀書處,惟有砌蟲唧唧草間。 銅駝廢井,何地蔑有?祇為遊人增慨。然萬石、虎谿二巖,巨石雖多, 絕無峰巒峭態,小如拳、大如屋,率皆圓鈍椎魯物;即有層疊而上者, 望之亦纍卵耳。廈門孤懸海中,周廣二三百里,步步皆山,巖石無小大, 悉作卵形,亦山川情性然也。余以登陟致勞,腰疾復作,掖而後行者累日。 十六日,小瘥,風亦暫止,舟人促行,遂登舟。俄而急雨驟至,雨過, 風復橫。海舶在巨浪中,搖曳震蕩,凡三晝夜無甯息。登舷望港口, 左為廈門支山,右為海澄縣古浪嶼山,兩山對峙,蜿蜓入海;盡處有小山矗起 中流,舟子言是大旦門,海舶出洋必由此。余曰:『詩不云乎「鳧鷖在亹」, 疏曰:「水流峽中,兩岸如門,謂之亹」。是大旦門與金門、廈門,悉應從亹, 不當從門也』。若以形勢言,大旦門為廈門門戶,金廈門又漳泉門戶矣。 十九日,風息波平。石君、董君皆至。方共敘三日闊,董君忽委頓, 伏艎底大嘔。舟人伐鼓鳴鉦,揚帆起椗。約行二十里,抵向所見大旦門。 有十二舶,皆依山泊宿。二十日,無風,不能行。二十一日,黎明,聞鉦鼓聲, 披衣起視,已乘微風出大旦門。一望蒼茫,淼無涯涘,同泊十二舶參差並進。 望舟左數十里外,有黃土坡,隱隱可見。凡自廈門往臺灣水道,當自乾趨巽, 舟師忽轉舵指坎。比午,至黃土坡下椗。使從者問之,對曰: 『舟無風不行,依此暫泊耳』。復問:『此何處』?曰:『遼羅,是金門支山』。 蓋已去大旦門七八十里矣。視同行,僅得三舶,餘皆不復可見。頃之,有微風, 復起椗行。比暮,視黃土坡猶未遠,以風力弱不勝帆也。始悟海洋泛舟, 固畏風,又甚畏無風。大海無櫓搖棹撥理,千里萬里,祇藉一帆風耳。憶往歲 榕城晤梁谿季君蓉洲,言自臺令旋省,至大洋中,風絕十有七日,舟不移尺寸, 水平如鏡,視澈波底,有礁石可識;斯言誠然既暮,就寢。初更風漸作, 寤聽舷間浪激聲甚厲,而艎中董君呻吟聲,若相和不輟。夜半,渡紅水溝。 二十二日,平旦,渡黑水溝。臺灣海道,惟黑水溝最險。自北流南, 不知源出何所。海水正碧,溝水獨黑如墨,勢又稍窳,故謂之溝。廣約 百里,湍流迅駛,時覺腥穢襲人。又有紅黑間道蛇及兩頭蛇繞船游泳, 舟師以楮鏹投之,屏息惴惴,懼或順流而南,不知所之耳。紅水溝不甚險, 人頗泄視之。然二溝俱在大洋中,風濤鼓盪,而與綠水終古不淆,理亦 難明。渡溝良久,聞鉦鼓作於舷間,舟師來告:『望見澎湖矣』。余登鷁尾 高處憑眺,祇覺天際微雲,一抹如線,徘徊四顧,天水欲連;一舟蕩漾, 若纖埃在明鏡中。賦詩曰:『浩蕩孤帆入杳冥,碧空無際漾浮萍;風翻駭浪 千山白,水接遙天一線青;迴首中原飛野馬,揚舲萬里指晨星;扶搖乍徙 非難事,莫訝莊生語不經』。頃之,視一抹如線者,漸廣漸近矣。午刻, 至澎湖之馬祖澳;相去僅十許丈,以風不順,帆數輾轉不得入澳。比入,已暮。 二十三日,乘三板登岸(三板即腳船也。海舶大,不能近岸,凡欲往來, 則乘三板;至欲開行,又拽上大船載之)。岸高不越丈,浮沙沒骭, 草木不生;有水師裨將統兵二千人暨一巡檢司守之。澎湖凡六十四島澳, 曰:南天嶼、草嶼、西嶼坪、貓嶼、布袋澳、八罩山、東嶼坪、水垵尾、 西吉、花嶼、鋤頭插、馬鞍嶼、東吉、將軍澳、布袋嶼、虎井嶼、船帆嶼、 岑雞嶼、豬母落水、桶盤嶼、月眉後鼻、西嶼頭、風櫃尾、雞籠嶼、鐵線灣、 紅毛城、四角嶼、雙頭掛、暗澳、案山仔、林投仔、牛心嶼、䗩仔灣、 天妃澳(有副將衙門)、鎖管港(有城)、銃城(有城)、巡檢司、小果葉、 潭邊、𧒄仔灣、小池角、龍門港、大果葉、大池角、龜壁港、沙港底、 中墩嶼、竹篙灣、鼎灣嶼、吼門、陽嶼、雁靖嶼、赤嵌仔、小門嶼、陰嶼、 土地公嶼、椗鉤嶼、姑婆嶼、雞善嶼、籃飯嶼、島嶼、員貝嶼、吉貝嶼、 墨嶼,悉斷續不相聯屬,彼此相望,在煙波縹緲間。遠者或不可見, 近者亦非舟莫即。澳有大小,居民有眾寡,然皆以海為田,以魚為糧; 若需米榖,雖升斗必仰給臺郡,以沙磧不堪種植也。居人臨水為室,潮至, 輒入人室中,即官署不免。頃之歸舟,有罟師鬻魚者,持巨蟹二枚, 赤質白文,厥狀甚異,又鯊魚一尾,重可四五斤,猶活甚,余以付庖人, 用佐午炊。庖人將剖魚,一小鯊從腹中躍出,剖之,乃更得六頭,以投水中, 皆游去,始信鯊魚胎生。申刻出港,泊澳外。舟人駕三板登岸,伋水畢, 各謀晚餐。余獨坐舷際,時近初更,皎月未上,水波不動,星光滿天, 與波底明星相映:上下二天,合成圓器。身處其中,遂覺宇宙皆空。露坐甚久, 不忍就寢,偶成一律:『東望扶桑好問津,珠宮璇室俯為鄰;波濤靜息魚龍夜, 參斗橫陳海宇春;似向遙天飄一葉,還從明鏡渡纖塵。閒吟抱膝檣烏下,薄露 泠然已溼茵』。少間,黑雲四布,星光盡掩。憶余友言君右陶言:『海上夜黑不 見一物,則擊水以視』。一擊而水光飛濺,如明珠十斛,傾撒水面, 晶光熒熒,良久始滅,亦奇觀矣!夜半微風徐動,舟師理舵欲發,余始就枕。 二十四日,晨起,視海水自深碧轉為淡黑,回望澎湖諸島猶隱隱可見, 頃之,漸沒入煙雲之外,前望臺灣諸山已在隱現間;更進,水變為淡藍, 轉而為白,而臺郡山巒畢陳目前矣。迎岸皆淺沙,沙間多漁舍,時有小艇往來 不絕。望鹿耳門,是兩岸沙角環合處;門廣里許,視之無甚奇險,門內轉大。 有鎮道海防盤詰出入,舟人下椗候驗。久之,風大作,鼓浪如潮,蓋自渡洋 以來所未見。念大洋中不知更作何狀,頗為同行未至諸舶危之。既驗,又迂迴 二三十里,至安平城下,復橫渡至赤嵌城,日已晡矣。蓋鹿耳門內浩瀚之勢, 不異大海;其下實皆淺沙,若深水可行舟處,不過一線,而又左右盤曲,非素 熟水道者,不敢輕入,所以稱險。不然,既入鹿耳,斜指東北,不過十里已達 赤嵌,何必迂迴乃爾?會風惡,仍留宿舟中。二十五日,買小舟登岸,近岸水 益淺,小舟復不進,易牛車,從淺水中牽挽達岸,詣臺邑二尹蔣君所下榻。 計自二十一日大旦門出洋以迄臺郡,凡越四晝夜。海洋無道里可稽,惟計以更, 分晝夜為十更,向謂廈門至臺灣,水程十一更半:自大旦門七更至澎湖, 自澎湖四更半至鹿耳門。風順則然;否則,十日行一更,未易期也。嘗聞 海舶已抵鹿耳門,為東風所逆,不得入,而門外鐵板沙又不可泊,勢必仍 返澎湖;若遇月黑,莫辨澎湖島澳,又不得不重迴廈門,以待天明者, 往往有之矣。海上不得順風,寸尺為艱。余念同行十二舶未至,蔣君職司出 入,有籍可稽,日索閱之,同至者僅得半,余或遲三五日至七八日, 最後一舟逾十日始至,友人僕在焉。訊其故,曰:『風也』。余曰: 『同日同行,又同水道,何汝一舟獨異』?曰:『海風無定,亦不一例; 常有兩舟並行,一變而此順彼逆,禍福攸分,此中似有鬼神司之,遑計遲速乎』? 余以舟中累日震蕩·頭涔涔然,雖憑几倚榻,猶覺在波濤中。越二日, 始謁客。晤太守靳公、司馬齊公、參軍尹君、諸羅令董君、鳳山令朱君。 又因齊司馬晤友呂子鴻圖,握手甚慰。渠既不意余之忽為海外遊,以為天降; 余於異域得見故人,尤快。相過無虛日,較同客榕城日加密,揮毫、 較射、雅歌、投壺,無所不有;暇則論議古今,賞奇析疑;復取臺灣郡志, 究其形勢,共相參考。蓋在八閩東南,隔海水千餘里,前代未嘗與中國通, 中國人曾不知有此地,即輿圖、一統志諸書,附載外夷甚悉,亦無臺灣之名; 惟明會典「太監王三保赴西洋水程」有「赤嵌汲水」一語,又不詳赤嵌何地。 獨澎湖於明時屬泉郡同安縣,漳泉人多聚漁於此,歲征漁課若干。嘉隆間,琉 球踞之。明人小視其地,棄而不問。若臺灣之曾屬琉球與否,俱無可考。 臺之民,土著者是為土番,言語不與中國通;況無文字,無由記說前代事。 迨萬曆間,復為荷蘭人所有(荷蘭即今紅毛也);建臺灣、赤嵌二城 (臺灣城今呼安平城,赤嵌城今呼紅毛樓),考其歲為天啟元年。二城 彷彿西洋人所畫屋室圖,周廣不過十畝,意在駕火砲,防守水口而已; 非有埤堄闉闍,如中國城郭,以居人民者也。我朝定鼎,四方賓服,獨鄭成功 阻守金廈門,屢煩征討。鄭氏不安,又值京口敗歸,欲擇地為休養計,始謀攻取 臺灣,聯檣並進;紅毛嚴守大港(大港在鹿耳門之南,今已久淤,不通舟楫), 以鹿耳門沙淺港曲,故弛其守,欲誘致之。成功戰艦不得入大港,視鹿耳門不守, 遂命進師;紅毛方幸其必敗,適海水驟漲三丈餘,鄭氏無復膠沙之患,急攻二城。 紅毛大恐,與戰又不勝,請悉收其類去,時順治十六年八月也。成功之有臺灣, 似有天助,於是更臺灣名承天府,設天興、萬年二州;又以廈門為思明州, 而自就臺灣城居焉。鄭氏所謂臺灣城,即今安平城也,與今郡治隔一海港, 東西相望約十里許,雖與鯤身連,實則臺灣外沙,前此紅毛與鄭氏皆身居之者; 誠以海口為重,而緩急於舟為便耳。成功歿於康熙元年,子經繼立(經即錦舍)。 經紈絝子,無遠略,其下諸將多來歸者,朝廷悉以一宜畀之,由是歸誠者日益眾。 康熙二十年,鄭經亡,子克塽繼;年甫十四,幼不諳國事,而總督姚公(啟聖)銳 意圖剿,多設反間、間其用事諸人,人心離叛,無固志,遂與提督施公(烺) 先後進討。康熙二十二年六月十六日,戰於澎湖;二十二日再戰,王師克捷, 已入天妃澳。臺灣門戶既失,鄭眾危懼,欲遷避呂宋,不果;蓋其下皆謂 克塽孺子,不足謀國事,而歸誠反正,猶冀得天朝爵賞,遂定計降。有旨原其罪。 十月,克塽率其族屬朝京師,封漢軍公。寧靖王朱(術桂)先依鄭成功, 歷三世,近四十年;聞克塽降,為詩曰:『流離來海外,止賸幾莖髮;如今事畢 矣,祖宗應容納』!與其二嬪同自經以殉。魯王世子輩安插河南。臺灣遂平。 嗟乎!鄭成功年甫弱冠,招集新附,草創廈門,復奪臺灣,繼以童孺守位, 三世相承,卒能保有其地,以歸順朝廷,成功之才略信有過人者。況乎夜郎 自大,生殺獨操,而仍奉永曆之紀元,恪守將軍之位號,奉明寧靖王、 魯王世子禮不衰,皆其美行;以視吳、耿背恩僭號者,相去不有間耶? 臺灣既入版圖,改偽承天府為臺灣府,偽天興州為諸羅縣,分偽萬年州為 臺灣、鳳山二縣;縣各一令一尉,臺灣縣附郭首邑,增置一丞,更設臺廈 道轄焉。海外初闢,規模草創,城郭未築,官署悉無垣牆,惟編竹為籬, 蔽內外而已。臺灣縣節府治,東西廣五十里,南北袤四十里,鎮、道、府、 廳暨諸、鳳兩縣衙署、學宮,市廛及內地寄籍民居多隸焉。而澎湖諸島澳, 亦在所轄。鳳山縣居其南,自臺灣縣分界而南,至沙馬磯大海,袤四百九十 五里;自海岸而東,至山下打狗仔港,廣五十里。攝土番十一社,曰: 上淡水、下淡水、力力、茄藤、放索、大澤磯、啞猴、答樓,以上平地八社, 輸賦應徭;曰:茄洛堂、浪嶠、卑馬南,三社在山中,惟輸賦,不應徭; 另有傀儡番並山中野番,皆無社名。諸羅縣居其北,攝番社新港、加溜灣 (音葛剌灣)、毆王(音蕭郎)、麻豆等二百八社外,另有蛤仔難(音葛雅蘭) 等三十六社,雖非野番,不輸貢賦,難以悉載。自臺灣縣分界而北, 至西北隅,轉至東北隅大雞籠社大海,袤二千三百十五里。三縣所隸, 不過山外沿海平地,其深山野番,不與外通,外人不能入,無由知其概。 總論臺郡平地形勢,東阻高山,西臨大海,自海至山,廣四五十里; 自鳳山縣南沙馬磯至諸羅縣北雞籠山,袤二千八百四十五里,此其大略也。 雖沿海沙岸,實平壤沃土,但土性輕浮,風起揚塵蔽天,雨過流為深坑。 然宜種植,凡樹萟芃芃郁茂,稻米有粒大如豆者;露重如雨,旱歲過夜轉潤, 又近海無潦患,秋成納稼倍內地;更產糖蔗雜糧,有種必穫。故內地窮黎, 襁至輻輳,樂出於其市。惜蕪地尚多,求闢土千一耳。五穀俱備,尤多植 芝麻。果實有番檨(土音讀作蒜,查無此字,或雲當從㰄)、黃梨、香果、 波羅蜜,皆內地所無,過海即敗苦,不得入內地。荔枝酸澀,龍眼似佳, 然皆絕少,市中不可多見;楊梅如豆,桃李澀口,不足珍。獨番石榴 不種自生,臭不可耐,而味又甚惡;蕉子冷沁心脾,膩齒不快,又產於冬月, 尤見違時。惟香果差勝。檳榔形似羊棗,力薄,殊遜滇粵;椰子結實如毬, 破之可為器,有椰酒盈椀,肉附殼而生,用與檳榔共嚼。余愛二樹, 獨榦無枝,亭亭自立,葉如鳳羽,偃蓋婆娑;窗前植之,差亦不惡。 瓜蔬悉同內地,無有增損。西瓜盛於冬月,臺人元旦多啖之;皮薄瓤紅, 可與常州並驅,但遜泉之傅霖耳。郡治無樹,惟綠竹最多,一望猗猗, 不減渭濱淇澳之盛。惜其僅止一種,輒數十竿為一叢,生筍不出叢外, 每於叢中排比而出。枝大於竿,又節節生刺,人入竹下,往往牽髮毀肌,莫不 委頓;世有嵇、阮,難共入林。花之木本者曰番花,葉似枇杷,枝必三叉, 臃腫而脆;開花五瓣,色白,近心漸黃,香如梔子,宜於風過暫得之, 近則惡矣;自四月至十月開不絕,冬寒併葉俱盡。草花有番茉莉,一花十瓣, 望之似菊;既放可得三日觀,不似內地茉莉暮開晨落,然香亦少遜焉。 街市以一折三,中通車行,傍列市肆,佛仿京師大街,低隘陋耳。婦人弓足 絕少,間有纏三尺布者,便稱麗都;故凡陌上相逢,於裙下不足流盼也。 市中用財,獨尚番錢。番錢者,紅毛人所鑄銀幣也。圓長不一式,上印番花, 實則九三色。臺人非此不用,有以庫帑予之,每蹙額不顧,以非所習見耳。 地不產馬,內地馬又艱於渡海,雖設兵萬人,營馬不滿千匹;文武各官乘輿, 自正印以下,出入皆騎黃犢。市中挽運百物,民間男婦遠適者,皆用犢車。故 比戶多畜牛;又多蔗梢,牛嗜食之,不費芻菽。曩鄭氏之治臺,立法尚嚴,犯 姦與盜賊,不赦;有盜伐民間一竹者,立斬之。民承峻法後,猶有道不拾遺之 風:市肆百貨露積,委之門外,無敢竊者。天氣四時皆夏,恆苦鬱蒸,遇雨成 秋,比歲漸寒,冬月有裘衣者,至霜霰則無有也。海上颶風時作,然歲有常 期;或逾期、或不及期,所爽不過三日,別有風期可考。颶之尤甚者曰颱,颱 無定期,必與大雨同至,必拔木壞垣,飄瓦裂石,久而愈勁;舟雖泊澳,常至 齏粉,海上人甚畏之,惟得雷聲即止。占颱風者,每視風向反常為戒:如夏月 應南而反北,秋冬與春應北而反南(三月二十三日馬祖暴後便應南風,白露後 至三月皆應北風;惟七月北風多主颱),旋必成颱,幸其至也漸,人得早避之。 又曰:風四面皆至曰颱。不知颱雖暴,無四方齊至理;譬如北風颱,必轉而 東,東而南,南又轉西,或一二日、或三五七日,不四面傳遍不止;是四面 遞至,非四面並至也。颶驟而禍輕,颱緩而禍久且烈。又春風畏始,冬風 慮終;又六月聞雷則風止,七月聞雷則風至;又非常之風,常在七月。而海中 鱗介諸物游翔水面,亦風兆也。此臺郡之大略也。為賦竹枝詞,以紀其概。 鐵板沙連到七鯤,鯤身激浪海天昏;任教巨舶難輕犯,天險生成鹿耳門。 安平城旁,自一鯤身至七鯤身,皆沙崗也。鐵板沙性重,得水則堅如石, 舟泊沙上,風浪掀擲,舟底立碎矣。牛車千百,日行水中,曾無軌跡, 其堅可知。雪浪排空小艇橫,紅毛城勢獨崢嶸;渡頭更上牛車坐,日暮還過赤 嵌城。渡船皆小艇也。紅毛城即今安平城,渡船往來絡繹,皆在安平、赤嵌二 城之間。沙堅水淺,雖小艇不能達岸,必藉牛車挽之。赤嵌城在郡治海岸, 與安平城對峙。編竹為垣取次增,衙齋清暇冷如冰;風聲撼醒三更夢, 帳底斜穿遠浦燈。官署皆無垣牆,惟插竹為籬,比歲增易。無牆垣為蔽, 遠浦燈光,直入寢室。耳畔時聞軋軋聲,牛車乘月夜中行;夢迴幾度疑吹角, 更有床頭蝘蜓鳴。牛車挽運百物,月夜車聲不絕。蝘蜓音偃忝,即守宮也; 臺灣守宮善鳴,聲似黃雀。蔗田萬頃碧萋萋,一望龍蔥路欲迷;絪載都來 糖廍裡,只留蔗葉餉群犀。取蔗漿煎糖處曰糖廍。蔗梢飼牛,牛嗜食之, 青蔥大葉似枇杷,臃腫枝頭著白花;看到花心黃欲滴,家家一樹倚籬笆。 番花葉似枇杷,花開五瓣,白色,木本,臃腫,枝必三義;花心漸作深黃色, 攀折累三日不殘。香如梔子,病其過烈;風度花香,頗覺濃郁。芭蕉幾樹 植牆陰,蕉子纍纍冷沁心;不為臨池堪代紙,因貪結子種成林。蕉實形似肥 皂,排偶而生,一枝滿百,可重十觔;性極寒。凡蒔蕉園林,綠陰深沉, 蔭蔽數畝。獨榦凌霄不作枝,垂垂青子任紛披;摘來還共蔞根嚼,贏得唇間 盡染脂。檳榔無旁枝,亭亭直上,遍體龍鱗,葉同鳳尾。子形似羊棗, 土人稱為棗子檳榔。食檳榔者必與簍根、蠣灰同嚼,否則澀口且辣。 食後口唇盡紅。惡竹參差透碧霄,叢生如棘任風搖;那堪節節都生刺, 把臂林間血已漂。竹根迄篠以至於葉,節節皆生倒刺,往往牽髮毀肌。 察之皆根之萌也,故此竹植地即生。不是哀梨不是楂,酸香滋味似甜瓜; 枇杷不見黃金果,番檨何勞向客誇?番檨生大樹上,形如茄子;夏至始熟, 臺人甚珍之。肩披鬢髮耳垂璫,粉面紅唇似女郎;馬祖宮前鑼鼓鬧, 侏離唱出下南腔。梨園子弟,垂髻穴耳,傅粉施朱,儼然女子。土人稱天妃 神曰馬祖,稱廟曰宮;天妃廟近赤嵌城,海舶多於此演戲酬願。閩以漳泉 二郡為下南,下南腔亦閩中聲律之一種也。臺灣西向俯汪洋,東望層巒 千里長;一片平沙皆沃土,誰為長慮教耕桑?臺郡之西,俯臨大海, 實與中國閩廣之間相對。東則層巒疊嶂,為野番巢居穴處之窟,鳥道蠶叢, 人不能入;其中景物,不可得而知也。山外平壤皆肥饒沃土,惜居人少, 土番又不務稼穡,當春計食而耕,都無蓄積,地力未盡,求闢土千一耳。 卷中 余以採硫來居臺郡兩閱月,為購布,購油,購糖,鑄大鑊,冶刀斧、 鋤、杓,規大小木桶,製秤、尺、斗、斛,種種畢備。布以給番人易硫土; 油與大鑊,所以煉硫;糖給工匠頻飲併浴體,以辟硫毒;鋤平土築基; 刀斧伐薪薙草;杓出硫於鑊;小桶凝硫,大桶貯水;秤、尺、斗、斛, 以衡量諸物。又購脫粟、鹽豉、筐、釜、@、箸等,率為百人具。計費九百 八十金,買一巨舶載之。入資什七,覺舟重不任載,心竊疑焉。遂止弗入, 更買一舶,為載所餘,費半前舶。或曰:『舟有大小,受載有量,今頗未盡量, 何徒費為』?余曰:『吾忽心動,方欲使兩舶中分之,匪直載所餘也』。 言者匿笑去。王君意圖便安,不欲更張,中分之志遂寢。余事既畢, 擬旦日登舶,郡守靳公(名治揚,號斗南)、司馬齊公(名體物,號誠庵) 咸謂余曰:『君不聞雞籠、淡水水土之惡乎?人至即病,病輒死。凡隸役聞雞 籠、淡水之遣,皆欷歔悲嘆,如使絕域;水師例春秋更戍,以得生還為幸。 彼健兒役隸且然,君奚堪此?曷令僕役往,君留郡城遙制之何如』?余曰: 『茲行計役工匠、番人數百人,又逼近野番,不有以靜鎮之,恐多事, 貽地方憂;況既受人託,又何惜一往』?明日,參軍尹君(名復)、鳳山尉戚君 (嘉燦)皆吾鄉人,來止余行,曰:『客秋朱友龍謀不軌,總戎王公命某弁 率百人戍下淡水,纔兩月,無一人還者;下淡水且然,況雞籠、淡水遠惡 尤甚者乎』?又曰:『縣役某與其侶四人往,僅以身返。此皆近事,君胡不自愛 耶』?余笑曰:『吾生有命,蒼蒼者主之,水土其如余何!余計之審矣, 不可以不往』。尹君與守戎沈君(長祿)為余作丸散藥及解毒辟癘諸方為贈, 珍重再三。又吾鄉黃巖顧君(敷公)隨父南金先生任江南糧儲道,住京口; 順治己亥被掠留臺,居臺久,習知山海夷險。與余一見如故交,亦來謂余曰: 『水土害人,鬼物為厲,有識者所不計;若夫去險就夷,居安避危, 胡可不審?君亦知海道乎?凡海舶不畏大洋,而畏近山;不患深水, 而患淺水。舟本浮物,有桅御風,有舵辟水,雖大風浪未易沉覆;若觸礁則 沉,膠沙必碎,其敗立見。今自郡治至雞籠,舟依沙瀨間行,遭風無港可泊, 險倍大洋,何如陸行為得乎?君將偕我往;若必從舟,則我請辭』。余曰: 『謹受教』。王君圖便安,卒登舟,挽之不可。余與顧君率平頭數輩,乘笨車 就道;隨行給役者凡五十五人,時四月初七日也。經過番社即易車, 車以黃犢駕,而令土番為御。是日過大洲溪,歷新港社、嘉溜(音葛辣) 灣社、麻豆社,雖皆番居,然嘉木陰森,屋宇完潔,不減內地村落。余曰: 『孰謂番人陋?人言甯足信乎』?顧君曰:『新港、嘉溜灣、毆王、麻豆, 於偽鄭時為四大社,令其子弟能就鄉塾讀書者,蠲其徭役,以漸化之。 四社番亦知勤稼穡,務蓄積,比戶殷富;又近郡治,習見城市居處禮讓, 故其俗於諸社為優。毆王近海,不當孔道,尤富庶,惜不得見,過此恐日 遠日陋矣』。然觀四社男婦,被髮不褌,猶沿舊習,殊可鄙。自麻豆易車, 應至倒咯(音洛)國;番人不解從者語,見營官中途為余治餐,意余必適彼, 為御至佳里興,至則二鼓矣。問孰為宿處,則營中也。無已,乃之守戎趙君 所。趙君名振,天雄人,孝廉,與余友侯君敬止善,談次及天雄、平干、鄴 下、汧臺諸故人,皆能了了,蓋皆三十年事矣。聞漏下三十刻,乃就寢。 初八日,仍馭原車,返麻豆社,易車渡茅港尾溪、鐵線橋溪。至倒咯 國社,日已近暮。憶王君此時,乘南風,駕巨艦,瞬息千里,余至則 後矣;乃乘夜渡急水、八掌等溪。遲明,抵諸羅山,倦極坐憩;天既 曙,復渡牛跳溪,過打貓社、山疊溪、他里務社,至柴里社宿。計車 行兩晝夜矣。車中倦眸欲瞑,每至深崖陡塹,輒復驚覺。所見御車番兒, 皆遍體雕青:背為鳥翼盤旋;自肩至臍,斜銳為網罟纓絡;兩臂各為 人首形,斷脰猙獰可怖。自腕至肘,纍鐵鐲數十道;又有為大耳者。 初十日,渡虎尾溪、西螺溪,溪廣二三里,平沙可行,車過無軌跡, 亦似鐵板沙,但沙水皆黑色,以臺灣山色皆黑土故也。又三十里,至東 螺溪,與西螺溪廣正等,而水深湍急過之。轅中牛懼溺,臥而浮,番兒 十餘,扶輪以濟,不溺者幾矣。既濟,值雨,馳三十里,至大武郡社 ,宿。是日所見番人,文身者愈多,耳輪漸大如@,獨於髮加束,或 為三叉,或為雙角;又以雞尾三羽為一翿,插髻上,迎風招颭,以為 觀美。又有三少婦共舂,中一婦頗有姿;然裸體對客,而意色泰然。 十一日,行三十里,至半線社,居停主人揖客頗恭,具饌尤腆。云:『過此多石路, 車行不易,曷少憩節勞』!遂留宿焉。自諸羅山至此,所見番婦多白晰妍好者。 十二日,過啞束社,至大肚社,一路大小積石,車行其上,終日蹭蹬殊困;加以林 莽荒穢,宿草沒肩,與半線以下如各天。至溪澗之多,尤不勝記。番人狀貌轉陋。 十三日,渡大溪,過沙轆社,至牛罵社,社屋隘甚,值雨過,殊溼。 假番室牖外設榻,緣梯而登,雖無門闌,喜其高潔。十四日,陰霾, 大雨,不得行;午後雨止,聞海吼聲,如錢塘怒潮,至夜不息。社人云: 『海吼是雨徵也』。十五日、十六日皆雨,前溪新水方怒,不敢進。 十七日,小霽。余榻面山,霾霧障之凡五日,苦不得一睹其麓;忽見開朗, 殊快。念野番跳梁,茲山實為藩籬,不知山後深山,當作何狀,將登麓望之。 社人謂:『野番常伏林中射鹿,見人則矢鏃立至,慎毋往』!余頷之; 乃策杖披荊拂草而登。既陟巔,荊莽樛結,不可置足。林木如蝟毛, 聯枝累葉,陰翳晝暝,仰視太虛,如井底窺天,時見一規而已。雖前山 近在目前,而密樹障之,都不得見。惟有野猿跳躑上下,向人作聲, 若老人欬;又有老猿,如五尺童子,箕踞怒視。風度林杪,作簌簌聲, 肌骨欲寒。瀑流潺潺,尋之不得;而修蛇乃出踝下,覺心怖,遂返。 十八日,又大雨,嵐氣盛甚,衣潤如洗;階前泥濘,足不得展;徘徊 悵結。賦詩曰:『番舍如蟻垤,茅簷壓路低;嵐風侵短牗,海霧襲重 綈;避雨從留屐,支床更著梯;前溪新漲阻,徙倚欲雞棲』。頃之, 有番婦至,蕡首瘠體,貌不類人,舉手指畫,若有所欲,余探得食物 與之;社人望見,亟麾之去,曰『此婦有術,善祟人,毋令得近也』! 十九日,晨起,忽霽,差爽人意,計二三日水落可涉,則前路匪遙矣。比午, 方飯,南風颼颼起萍末,衣潤頓乾,覺快甚。飯罷,風漸橫,草木披靡,念兩 海舶當已至;不然殆矣,王君奈何!意甚憂之。薄暮,有人自海濱來,云: 『見二巨舟,乘風而北』。益駭,披襟坐大風中,至三鼓,勉就枕,然竟夜無寐。 二十日,辰刻風定;無從得二舶耗。顧君慰余曰:『君無憂二舶也!彼非南風 不行,既久無南風,昨風又橫,無行理,何憂為』?土官使麻答為余問水 (麻答是番兒之矯健者;問水,探水之深淺也),曰:『水急且高,未可涉也』。 二十三日,余念二舶,遂叱馭行。行二十里,至溪所,眾番為戴行李, 沒水而過;復扶余車浮渡,雖僅免沒溺,實濡水而出也。渡凡三溪, 率相越不半里;已渡過大甲社(即崩山)、雙寮社,至宛里社宿。自渡 溪後,御車番人貌益陋,變胸背雕青為豹文。無男女,悉翦髮覆額, 作頭陀狀,規樹皮為冠;番婦穴耳為五孔,以海螺文貝嵌入為飾,捷走先男子。 經過番社皆空室,求一勺水不可得;得見一人,輒喜。自此以北,大概略同。 二十四日,過吞霄社、新港仔社,至後坂社。甫下車,王君敝衣跣足 在焉。泣告曰:『舟碎身溺,幸復相見』。余驚問所以不死狀,曰: 自初三日登舟,泊鹿耳門,候南風不得。十八日,有微風,遂行。行一 日,舵與帆不洽,斜入黑水者再;船首自俯,欲入水底,而巨浪又夾之; 舟人大恐,向馬祖求庇,苦無港可泊,終夜徬徨。十九日,猶如昨。 午後南風大至,行甚駛,喜謂天助;頃之,風厲甚,因舵劣,不任使, 強持之,舵牙折者三。風中蝴蝶千百,繞船飛舞,舟人以為不祥。申刻, 風稍緩,有黑色小鳥數百集船上,驅之不去,舟人咸謂大凶;焚楮鏹祝之, 又不去,至以手撫之,終不去,反呷呷向人,若相告語者。少間,風益甚, 舟欲沉,向馬祖卜筄,求船安,不許;求免死,得吉;自棄舟中物三之一。 至二更,遙見小港,眾喜倖生,以沙淺不能入,姑就港口下椗。舟人困頓, 各就寢。五鼓失椗,船無繫,復出大洋,浪擊舵折,鷁首又裂,知不可為, 舟師告曰:『惟有划水仙,求登岸免死耳』!划水仙者,眾口齊作鉦鼓聲, 人各挾一匕箸,虛作棹船勢,如午日競渡狀;凡洋中危急,不得近岸, 則為之。船果近岸,浪拍即碎;王君與舟人皆入水,幸善泅,得不溺; 乘浪勢推擁登岸,顧視原舟,惟斷板折木,相擊白浪中耳。余亟問:『後舶安在』? 王君曰:『彼舟利步,自十八日已先余舟數百里矣,尚何能知之』?余聞王君言, 意欲回車;復自計曰:『驅馳千餘里,何惜三數日程,不往探後舶確耗乎』? 二十五日,與王君共一車,兼程進。越高嶺三,至中港社,午餐。見門外一牛 甚腯,囚木籠中,俯首跼足,體不得展;社人謂:『是野牛初就靮,以此馴之』。 又云:『前路竹塹、南嵌,山中野牛甚多,每出千百為群,土番能生致之, 候其馴,用之。今郡中挽車牛,強半是也』。飯竟,復登車,道由海壖橫涉 小港,迂迴沙岸間三十餘里;王君指折舵碎舟脫死登岸處甚悉,視沙間斷木 廢板,尚有存者,惟相對浩歎而已。又浮一深溪,至竹塹社,宿。溪水湍急, 役夫有溺而復起者。奴子車後浴水而出,比至,無復人色。有人自雞籠、淡水 來者,言二十日風後,有一舶至;余聞之甚喜,謂王君曰:『沉舟諸物,固無 有理,然大鑊與冶器,必沉沙中,似可覓也;且一舟猶在,無中輟理,君毋惜 海濱一行』!遂留王君竹塹社,余復馳至南嵌社宿。自竹塹迄南嵌八九十里, 不見一人一屋,求一樹就蔭不得;掘土窟,置瓦釜為炊,就烈日下,以澗水沃 之,各飽一餐。途中遇麋、鹿、麏、麚逐隊行,甚夥,驅獫猲獟獲三鹿。既至 南嵌,入深箐中,披荊度莽,冠履俱敗:直狐狢之窟,非人類所宜至也。 二十七日,自南嵌越小嶺,在海岸間行,巨浪卷雪拍轅下,衣袂為濕。 至八里分社,有江水為阻,即淡水也。深山溪澗,皆由此出。水廣五六里, 港口中流有雞心嶕,海舶畏之;潮汐去來,淺深莫定。余停車欲渡,有飛蟲 億萬,如急雨驟至,衣不能蔽,遍體悉損。視沙間一舟,獨木鏤成,可容 兩人對坐,各操一楫以渡;名曰莽葛,蓋番舟也。既渡,有淡水社長張大, 罄折沙際迎,遂留止其家。視後舶果已至;當風橫時,棄擲數物,餘皆獲全; 然不過前舶之餘,計所亡已什八矣。爰命張大為余治屋,余留居五日以待。 五月朔,張大來告屋成。初二日,余與顧君暨僕役平頭共乘海舶,由 淡水港入。前望兩山夾峙處,曰甘答門,水道甚隘,入門,水忽廣, 漶為大湖,渺無涯涘。行十許里,有茅廬凡二十間,皆依山面湖,在茂草中, 張大為余築也。余為區畫,以設大鑊者二,貯硫土者六,處夫役者七, 為庖者二,余與王君、顧君暨臧獲共處者三;為就地勢,故錯綜散置, 向背不一。張大云:『此地高山四繞,周廣百余里,中為平原,惟一溪流水, 麻少翁等三社,緣溪而居。甲戌四月,地動不休,番人怖恐,相率徙去, 俄陷為巨浸,距今不三年耳』。指淺處猶有竹樹梢出水面,三社舊址可識。 滄桑之變,信有之乎?既坐定,聞飛湍倒峽聲,有崩崖轉石之勢; 意必有千尋瀑流,近在左右,晝夜轟耳不輟;覓之累日,不可得見。 初五日,王君從海岸馳至,果得冶器七十二事及大鑊一具,余其問之水濱矣。 又數日,各社土官悉至;曰八里分、麻少翁、內北頭、外北頭、雞洲山、 大洞山、小雞籠、大雞籠、金包里、南港、瓦烈、擺折、里末、武溜灣、 雷里、荖厘、繡朗、巴琅泵(音畔)、奇武卒、答答攸、里族、房仔嶼、 麻里折口等二十三社,皆淡水總社統之,其土官有正副頭目之分。飲以薄酒, 食以糖丸,又各給布丈余,皆忻然去。復給布眾番易土,凡布七尺, 易土一筐,衡之可得二百七八十觔。明日,眾番男婦相繼以莽葛載土至, 土黃黑不一,色質沉重,有光芒,以指撚之,颯颯有聲者佳,反是則劣。 煉法:槌碎如粉,日曝極乾,鑊中先入油十余觔,徐入乾土,以大竹為 十字架,兩人各持一端攬之;土中硫得油自出,油土相融,又頻頻加土加油, 至於滿鑊;約入土八九百觔,油則視土之優劣為多寡。工人時時以鐵鍬取汁, 瀝突旁察之,過則添土,不及則增油。油過不及,皆能損硫;土既優, 用油適當,一鑊可得淨硫四五百觔,否或一二百觔乃至數十觔。關鍵處 雖在油,而工人視火候,似亦有微權也。余問番人硫土所產,指茅廬 後山麓間。明日拉顧君偕往,坐莽葛中,命二番兒操楫。緣溪入,溪盡為 內北社,呼社人為導。轉東行半里,入茅棘中,勁茅高丈余,兩手排之, 側體而入,炎日薄茅上,暑氣蒸欝,覺悶甚。草下一徑,逶迤僅容蛇伏。 顧君濟勝有具,與導人行,輒前;余與從者後,五步之內,已各不相見, 慮或相失,各聽呼應聲為近遠。約行二三里,渡兩小溪,皆而涉。復入深林 中,林木蓊翳,大小不可辨名;老藤纏結其上,若虯龍環繞,風過葉落, 有大如掌者。又有巨木裂土而出,兩葉始蘗,已大十圍,導人謂楠也。 楠之始生,已具全體,歲久則堅,終不加大,蓋與竹筍同理。樹上禽聲萬態, 耳所創聞,目不得視其狀。涼風襲肌,幾忘炎暑。復越峻坡五六,值大溪, 溪廣四五丈,水潺潺巉石間,與石皆作藍靛色,導人謂此水源出硫穴下, 是沸泉也;余以一指試之,猶熱甚,扶杖躡巉石渡。更進二三里,林木忽斷, 始見前山。又陟一小巔,覺履底漸熱,視草色萎黃無生意;望前山半麓, 白氣縷縷,如山雲乍吐,搖曳青嶂間,導人指曰:『是硫穴也』。風至, 硫氣甚惡。更進半里,草木不生,地熱如炙;左右兩山多巨石,為硫氣所觸, 剝蝕如粉。白氣五十余道,皆從地底騰激而出,沸珠噴濺,出地尺許。 余攬衣即穴旁視之,聞怒雷震蕩地底,而驚濤與沸鼎聲間之;地復岌岌欲動, 令人心悸。蓋周廣百畝間,實一大沸鑊,余身乃行鑊蓋上,所賴以不陷者, 熱氣鼓之耳。右旁巨石間,一穴獨大,思巨石無陷理,乃即石上俯瞰之, 穴中毒焰撲人,目不能視,觸腦欲裂,急退百步乃止。左旁一溪,聲如倒峽, 即沸泉所出源也。還就深林小憩,循舊路返。衣染硫氣,累日不散。始悟 向之倒峽崩崖,轟耳不輟者,是硫穴沸聲也。為賦二律:『造化鍾奇構, 崇岡湧沸泉;怒雷翻地軸,毒霧撼崖巔;碧澗松長槁,丹山草欲燃; 蓬瀛遙在望,煮石迓神仙』。『五月行人少,西陲有火山;孰知泉沸處? 遂使履行難;落粉銷危石,流黃漬篆斑;轟聲傳十里,不是響潺湲』。 人言此地水土害人,染疾多殆,臺郡諸公言之審矣。余初未之信;居無何, 奴子病矣,諸給役者十且病九矣!乃至庖人亦病,執爨無人。而王君 水底余生,復染危痢,水漿不入;晝夜七八十行,漸至流溢枕席間。 余一榻之側,病者環繞,但聞呻吟與寒噤聲,若唱和不輟,恨無越人術, 安得遍藥之?乃以一舶悉歸之。而顧君又以他事赴省,獨余不可去, 與一病僕俱。時時督番兒,課匠役,往來烈日下與深草茂林中,日不少休。 而一二社棍,又百計暗撓之。余既不識侏離語,與人言,人又不解余旨, 口耳並廢,直同聾啞。是余一身,且有兼病,尚得以不病傲人乎?以余觀之: 山川不殊中土,鬼物未見有徵,然而人輒病者,特以深山大澤尚在洪荒, 草木晦蔽,人跡無幾,瘴癘所積,入人肺腸,故人至即病,千人一症, 理固然也。余體素弱,十年善病,恆以參朮代饔飧,猶苦不支。自臺郡至此, 計觸暑行二十日,兼馳凡四晝夜,涉大小溪九十有六;若深溝巨壑,峻坡陡 崖,馳下如覆、仰上如削者,蓋不可勝數。平原一望,罔非茂草,勁者覆頂, 弱者蔽肩,車馳其中,如在地底,草梢割面破項,蚊蚋蒼蠅吮咂肌體, 如飢鷹餓虎,撲逐不去。炎日又曝之,項背欲裂,已極人世勞瘁。既至, 草廬中,四壁陶瓦,悉茅為之,四面風入如射,臥恆見天。青草上榻, 旋拔旋生。雨至,室中如洪流,一雨過,屐而升榻者凡十日。蟬琴蚓笛, 時沸榻下,階前潮汐時至。出戶,草沒肩,古木樛結,不可名狀;惡竹叢生 其間,咫尺不能見物。蝮蛇癭項者,夜閣閣鳴枕畔,有時鼾聲如牛, 力可吞鹿;小蛇逐人,疾如飛矢,戶閾之外,暮不敢出。海風怒號, 萬籟響答,林谷震撼,屋榻欲傾。夜半猿啼,如鬼哭聲,一燈熒熒, 與鬼病垂危者聯榻共處。以視子卿絕塞、信國沮洳為何如?柳子厚云: 『播州非人所居』;令子厚知有此境,視播州天上矣。余至之夜,有漁人 結寮港南者,與余居遙隔一水,纍布藉枕而臥;夜半,矢從外入,穿枕上 布二十八劄,幸不傷腦,猶在夢鄉,而一矢又入,遂貫其臂,同侶逐賊不獲, 視其矢,則土番射鹿物也。又有社人被殺於途,皆數日間事。余草廬在無人 之境,時見茂草中有番人出入,莫察所從來;深夜勁矢,寧無戒心?若此地 者,蓋在在危機,刻刻死亡矣!余身非金石,力不勝鼷鼠;況以斑白之年, 高堂有母,寧遂忘臨履之戒,以久處危亡之地乎?良以剛毅之性,有進無退, 謀人謀己,務期克濟;況生平歷險遭艱,奚止一事?今老矣!肯以一念之恧, 事半中輟,嗒然遂失其故我耶?且病者去矣,而不病者又以畏病畏危去,將誰 與竣所事?與其今日早去,何如前日不來?疇其能余迫?今既來矣,遑惜其他? 心志素定,神氣自正,匪直山鬼降心,二豎且遠避百舍。且余固以嗜遊來, 余嘗謂:『探奇攬勝者,毋畏惡趣;遊不險不奇,趣不惡不快』。太白登華山, 恨不攜謝朓驚人句,搔首問天;昌黎登華嶽絕頂,痛哭投書與家人別,華陰令 百計取之,迺得下,皆以嗜遊癖者也。余雖不敢仰希前哲,然茲行所歷,當令昌黎、 太白增羨。況蓬萊在望,弱水可掬,藉令祖龍、漢武聞之,不將寨裳恐後乎? (以下有「雖然驕語誇人,豈情也哉」?十字,疑為後人評詞,誤入正文) 卷下 余既來海外,又窮幽極遠,身歷無人之域;其於全臺山川夷險、形勢扼塞、 番俗民情,不啻戶至而足履焉。可不為一言,俾留意斯世斯民者知之? 間嘗於清旦策杖,薄暮操舟,周覽探討而得其概焉。蓋淡水者,臺灣西北隅 盡處也。高山嵯峨,俯瞰大海,與閩之福州府閩安鎮東西相望,隔海遙峙, 計水程七八更耳。山下臨江陴𨺙為淡水城,亦前紅毛為守港口設者。 鄭氏既有臺灣,以淡水近內地,仍設重兵戍守。本朝內外一家,不虞他寇, 防守漸弛;惟安平水師,撥兵十人,率半歲一更,而水師弁卒,又視為畏途, 扁舟至社,信宿即返。十五六年城中無戍兵之跡矣!歲久荒蕪,入者輒死, 為鬼為毒,人無由知。汛守之設,特虛名耳!緣海東行百六七十里, 至雞籠山,是臺之東北隅。有小山圓銳,去水面十里,孤懸海中;以雞籠名 者,肖其形也。踰此而南,則為臺灣之東面。東西之間,高山阻絕, 又為野番盤踞,勢不可通。而雞籠山下,實近弱水,秋毫不載,舟至即沉; 或云:名為「萬水朝東」,水勢傾瀉,捲入地底,滔滔東逝,流而不返。 二說未詳孰是?從無操舟往試,歸告於人者。海舟相戒不敢出其下,故於水道 亦不能通,西不知東,猶東之不知西也。止就西言:自淡水港而南, 迄於郡治,尚有南嵌、竹塹、後龍、鹿仔(音雅)、二林、臺仔穵、 莽港等七港;自郡治而南至鳳山縣沙馬磯,亦有蠔港、打狗仔、下淡水等 三港。山中澗水所出,雖沙堅水淺,難容巨舶,每當潮汐,亦可進舟。 設有寇盜伺隙,或紅毛思復故物,以數舶虛攻鹿耳牽制水陸,而出偏師掩襲 各港,踞土列營,首尾夾擊,則我兵守禦勢分,三面受敵矣!今獨重鹿耳、 安平之守,而於各港一切泄視,非計之得也。又郡治各邑,悉無城郭, 戰守無憑,當事者亦屢圖之,以去山遠,無水道,不可得石,往往中輟。 近有建議植竹為城者,以竹種獨異內地,叢生合沓,間不容髮,而旁枝橫勁, 篠節皆刺,若夾植二三重,雖狐鼠不敢穴,矢砲不能穿,其勢反堅於石, 而又無舂築之勞。但令比戶各植數竿,不煩民力,而民易從,期月之間, 可使平地有金湯之壯。其說可採,所當亟為舉行,不待再計者矣。至若諸羅、 鳳山二邑,各有疆域,舍己邑不居,而寄居郡治臺邑之地,若僑寓然; 似宜各度地勢,植竹建城,不獨撫字為便,而犄角互援之勢亦成矣。 近者海內恆苦貧,斗米百錢,民多飢色;賈人責負聲,日沸闤闠。臺郡獨 似富庶,市中百物價倍,購者無吝色,貿易之肆,期約不愆;傭人計日百錢, 趑趄不應召;屠兒牧豎,腰纏常數十金,每遇摴蒱,浪棄一擲間,意不甚惜; 余頗怪之。因留臺久,始得其故。茲地自鄭氏割踞至今,民間積貯有年矣。 王師克臺,倒戈歸誠,不煩攻圍,不經焚掠。蕩平之後,設鎮兵三千人, 協兵南北二路二千人,安平水師三千人,澎湖水師二千人;三邑丁賦, 就地放給外,藩庫又歲發十四萬有奇,以給兵餉。兵丁一人,歲得十二兩, 以之充膳、製衣履,猶慮不敷,甯有余蓄?蓋皆散在民間矣。又植蔗為糖, 歲產五六十萬,商舶購之,以貿日本、呂宋諸國。又米、榖、麻、豆、鹿皮、 鹿脯,運之四方者十余萬。是臺灣一區,歲入賦七八十萬,自康熙癸亥削平 以來,十五六年間,總計一千二三百萬。入多而出少,較之內地州縣錢糧, 悉輸大部,有出無入者,安得不彼日瘠而此日腴乎?又臺土宜稼,收穫倍蓰, 治田千畝,給數萬人,日食有余。為賈販通外洋諸國,則財用不匱。民富土 沃,又當四達之海;即今內地民人,襁至而輻輳,皆願出於其市。萑苻陸梁, 孰不欲掩而有之,有如曩昔鄭氏者,乘間覬覦,實足為患,而內地沿海, 且無寧宇矣!議者謂:『海外丸泥,不足為中國加廣;裸體文身之番, 不足與共守;日費天府金錢於無益,不若徙其人而空其地』。不知我棄之, 人必取之;我能徙之,彼不難移民以實之。噫!計亦疏矣!我朝自鄭氏竊 踞以來,海䑸飄忽,在在入寇,江、浙、閩、粵沿海郡縣,蹂躪幾遍, 兵戈垂四十年不息,至沿海萬里遷界為清野計,屢煩大兵迄不能滅者, 以有臺灣為之基也。今既有其地,而謂當棄之,則琉球、日本、紅毛、安南、 東京諸國必踞之矣!琉球最稱小弱,素不為中國患,即有之,亦不能長守 為中國藩籬;安南、東京,構兵不解,無暇遠圖;日本最大,獨稱強國; 紅毛狡黠,尤精戰艘火器,又為大西洋附庸;西洋人務為遠圖,用心堅深, 不可測識,幸去中國遠,窺伺不易;使有臺灣置足,則朝去暮來,擾害可勝言 哉?鄭鹽不遠,何異自壞藩籬,以資寇巢?是智者所不為也!犄角三城, 搤隘各港,堅守鹿耳,外此無良圖矣!然守臺灣,尤宜以澎湖為重。澎湖者, 臺灣之門戶也;三十六島,絕無暗礁,在在可以泊船。故欲犯臺灣,必先攻 澎湖;澎湖既得,進戰退守無不宜。欲守臺灣,亦先守澎湖;澎湖堅壁, 敵舟漂蕩無泊,即坐而自困矣。疇昔鄭氏,尚與王師鏖戰,澎湖既失, 遂至窮蹙,蓋可鹽也!乃臺民居恆思亂,每聚不軌之徒,稱號鑄印、散扎 設者,歲不乏人;敗露死杖下,仍多繼起者。非有豪傑之士,欲踵武鄭氏也, 緣臺民皆漳泉寄籍人,五十年來,習見兵戈不足畏;又目睹鄭氏將弁投誠, 皆得官封公侯,以是為青雲捷徑,成則王、敗不失為進身階,故接踵走死地 如鶩。非性不善,習見誤之耳。往歲獲亂人,問:『何為叛』?對曰: 『我非叛,諸公何過譸張』?復問:『印札有據,非叛而何』?對曰: 『冀投誠圖出身耳』。聞者絕倒。不知鄭氏方猖,有來歸者,廟謨不惜一官 畀之;不若是,不足解其黨。御亂有術,因時制宜。今鄭氏反正,薄海乂安, 盜弄潢池,有戮無宥,寧與前此同日語乎?亦愚甚矣!故臺灣縣易藏奸宄, 事較兩邑為繁。諸羅、鳳山無民,所隸皆土著番人。番有土番、野番之別: 野番在深山中,疊嶂如屏,連峰插漢,深林密箐,仰不見天,棘刺籐蘿, 舉足觸礙,蓋自洪荒以來,斧斤所未入,野番生其中,巢居穴處,血飲毛茹 者,種類實繁,其升高陟巔越箐度莽之捷,可以追驚猿,逐駭獸,平地諸番恆 畏之,無敢入其境者。而野番恃其獷悍,時出剽掠,焚廬殺人;已復歸其巢, 莫能向邇。其殺人輒取首去,歸而熟之,剔取髑髏,加以丹堊,置之當戶, 同類視其室髑髏多者推為雄,如夢如醉,不知向化,真禽獸耳!譬如虎豹, 遭之則噬;蛇虺,攖之則嚙;苟不近其穴,彼無肆毒之心,亦聽其自生自槁 於雨露中耳。客冬有趨利賴科者,欲通山東土番,與七人為侶,晝伏夜行, 從野番中,越度萬山,竟達東面;東番知其唐人,爭款之,又導之遊各番社, 禾黍芃芃,比戶殷富,謂苦野番間阻,不得與山西通,欲約西番夾擊之。 又曰:『寄語長官,若能以兵相助,則山東萬人,鑿山通道,東西一家, 共輸貢賦,為天朝民矣』。又以小舟從極南沙馬磯海道送之歸。七人所得饋遺 甚厚,謂番俗與山西大略相似,獨平地至海,較西為廣;使當事者能持其議, 與東番約斯夾擊,剿撫並施,烈澤焚山,夷其險阻,則數年之後,未必不變 荊棘為坦途,而化槃瓠僰筰為良民也。若夫平地近番,冬夏一布,粗糲一飽, 不識不知,無求無欲,自遊於葛天、無懷之世,有擊壤、鼓腹之遺風;亦恆 往來市中,狀貌無甚異,惟兩目拗深瞪視,似稍別;其語多作都盧嘓轆聲, 呼酒曰「打剌酥」,呼煙曰「篤木固」,略與相似。相傳臺灣空山無人, 自南宋時元人滅金,金人有浮海避元者,為@風飄至,各擇所居,耕鑿自贍, 遠者或不相往來;數世之後,忘其所自,而語則未嘗改。男女夏則裸體, 惟私處圍三尺布;冬寒以番毯為單衣,毯緝樹皮雜犬毛為之。亦有用麻者, 厚可一錢,兩幅連綴,不開領脰,衣時以頭貫之,仍露其臂;又有袒挂一臂, 及兩幅左右互袒者。婦人衣以一幅雙疊,縫其兩腋,僅蔽胸背;別以一副縫其 兩端以受臂,而橫擔肩上。上衣覆乳露腹;中衣橫裹,僅掩私,不及膝; 足不知履,以烏布圍股;一身凡三截,各不相屬。老人頭白,則不挂一縷, 箕踞往來,鄰婦不避也。髮如亂蓬,以青蒿為香草,日取束髮,蟣虱遶走 其上。間有少婦施膏沐者,分兩綹盤之,亦有致;妍者亦露倩盼之態, 但以鹿脂為膏,戱不可近。男子競尚大耳,於成童時,向耳垂間各穿一孔, 用篠竹貫之,日以加大,有大如盤,至於垂肩撞胸者。項間螺貝纍纍,盤繞 數匝,五色陸離,都成光怪。胸背文以雕青,為鳥翼、網罟、虎豹文,不可 名狀。人無老少,不留一髭,並五毛盡去之。有病不知醫藥,惟飲溪水則愈。 婦人無冬夏,日浴於溪,浴畢汲上流之水而歸。有病者浴益頻。孕婦始娩, 即攜兒赴浴。兒患痘,盡出其漿,復浴之,曰:『不若是,不愈也』。婚姻無 媒妁,女已長,父母使居別室中,少年求偶者皆來,吹鼻簫,彈口琴, 得女子和之,即入與亂,亂畢自去;久之,女擇所愛者乃與挽手。挽手者, 以明私許之意也。明日,女告其父母,召挽手少年至,鑿上齶門牙旁二齒 授女,女亦鑿二齒付男,期某日就婦室婚,終身依婦以處。蓋皆以門楣 紹瓜瓞,父母不得有其子,故一再世而孫且不識其祖矣;番人皆無姓氏, 有以也。番室倣龜殼為制,築土基三五尺,立棟其上,覆以茅,茅簷深遠, 垂地過土基方丈,雨暘不得侵。其下可舂可炊,可坐可臥,以貯笨車、網罟、 農具、雞栖、豚柵,無不宜。室前後各為牖,在脊棟下,緣梯而登。室中空無 所有,視有幾犬。為置幾榻,人惟藉鹿皮擇便臥;夏並鹿皮去之,藉地而已。 壁間懸葫蘆,大如斗,旨蓄毯衣納其中;竹筒數規,則新醅也。其釀法, 聚男女老幼共嚼米,納筒中,數日成酒,飲時入清泉和之。客至,髮婦傾筒中 酒先嘗,然後進客,客飲盡則喜,否則慍;慍客或憎之也,又呼其鄰婦, 各衣毯衣,為聯袂之歌以侑觴,客或狎之,亦不怒。其夫見婦為客狎,喜甚, 謂己妻實都,故唐人悅之(海外皆稱中國為大唐,稱中國人為唐人)。 若其同類為奸,則挾弓矢偵奸人射殺之,而不懟其婦。地產五穀,番人惟食 稻、黍與稷,都不食麥。其饔飧不宿舂,曉起待炊而舂;既熟,聚家人手摶 食之。山中多麋鹿,射得輒飲其血;肉之生熟不甚較,果腹而已。出不慮風 雨,行不計止宿;食云則食,坐云則坐;喜一笑,痛一顰。終歲不知春夏, 老死不知年歲。寒然後求衣,飢然後求食,不預計也。村落廬舍,各為向背。 無市肆貿易,有金錢,無所用,故不知蓄積。雖有余力,惟知計日而耕, 秋成納稼;計終歲所食,有余,則盡付麴蘗;來年新禾既植,又盡以所余 釀酒。番人無男女皆嗜酒,酒熟,各攜所釀,聚男女酣飲,歌呼如沸, 累三日夜不輟;余粟既罄,雖飢不悔。屋必自構,衣需自織,耕田而後食, 汲澗而後飲,績麻為網,屈竹為弓,以獵以漁,蓋畢世所需,罔非自為而 後用之。腰間一刃,行臥與俱,凡所成造,皆出於此。惟陶冶不能自為, 得鐵則取澗中兩石夾槌之,久亦成器,未嘗不利於用。剖瓠截竹,用代陶瓦, 可以挹酒漿,可以胹餴饎。我有之,我飲食之,鄉黨親戚,緩急有無不相通; 鄰人米爛粟紅,饑者不之貸也。社有小大,戶口有眾寡,皆推一二人為土官。 其居室、飲食、力作,皆與眾等,無一毫加於眾番;不似滇廣土官,徵賦稅, 操殺奪,擁兵自衛者比。其先不知有君長,自紅毛始踞時,平地土番悉 受約束,力役輸賦不敢違,犯法殺人者,剿滅無孑遺。鄭氏繼至,立法尤嚴, 誅夷不遺赤子,併田疇廬舍廢之。其實土番殺人,非謀不軌也,麴蘗誤之也。 群飲之際,誇力爭強,互不相下,杯斝未釋手,白刃已陷其脰間;有平時睚 眥,醉後修怨,旦日酒醒,曾不自知,而討罪之師已躡其門矣。故至今大肚、 牛罵、大甲、竹塹諸社,林莽荒穢,不見一人,諸番視此為戒,相率謂曰: 『紅毛強,犯之無噍類;鄭氏來,紅毛畏之逃去;今鄭氏又為皇帝勦滅, 盡為臣虜,皇帝真天威矣』!故其人既愚,又甚畏法。曩鄭氏於諸番徭賦 頗重,我朝因之。秋成輸榖似易,而艱於輸賦,彼終世不知白鏹為何物, 又安所得此以貢其上?於是仍沿包社之法,郡縣有財力者,認辦社課, 名曰社商;社商又委通事夥長輩,使居社中,凡番人一粒一毫,皆有籍稽之。 射得麋鹿,盡取其肉為脯,並收其皮。日本人甚需鹿皮,有賈舶收買; 脯以鬻漳郡人,二者輸賦有余。然此輩欺番人愚,朘削無厭,視所有不異己 物; 平時事無巨細,悉呼番人男婦孩稚,供役其室無虛日。且皆納番婦為妻妾, 有求必與,有過必撻,而番人不甚怨之。苟能化以禮義,風以詩書, 教以蓄有備無之道,制以衣服、飲食、冠婚、喪祭之禮,使咸知愛親、敬長、 尊君、親上,啟發樂生之心,潛消頑憝之性,遠則百年、近則三十年, 將見風俗改觀,率循禮教,寧與中國之民有以異乎?古稱荊蠻斷髮文身之俗, 乃在吳越近地,今且蔚為人文淵藪。至若閩地,叛服不常,漢世再棄而 復收之;自道南先生出,而有宋理學大儒競起南中。人固不可以常俗限, 是在上之人鼓舞而化導之耳!今臺郡百執事,朝廷以其海外勞吏,每三歲遷擢, 政令初施,人心未洽,而轉盼易之,安必蕭規曹隨,後至者一守前人繩尺, 不事更張為?況席不暇暖,視一官如傳舍,孰肯為遠效難稽之治乎? 余謂欲化番人,必如周之分封同姓及世卿采地,子孫世守;或如唐韋皋、 宋張詠之治蜀,久任數十年,不責旦暮之效然後可。噫!蓋亦難言矣! 然又有暗阻潛撓於中者,則社棍是也。此輩皆內地犯法奸民,逃死匿身於辟遠 無人之地,謀充夥長通事,為日既久,熟識番情,復解番語,父死子繼, 流毒無已。彼社商者,不過高臥郡邑,催餉納課而已;社事任其播弄, 故社商有虧折耗費,此輩坐享其利。社商率一二歲更易,而此輩雖死不移也。 此輩正利番人之愚,又甚欲番人之貧:愚則不識不知,攫奪惟意;貧則易於槌挾, 力不敢抗。匪特不教之,且時時誘陷之。即有以冤訴者,而番語侏離,不能達 情,聽訟者仍問之通事,通事顛倒是非以對,番人反受呵譴;通事又告之曰: 『縣官以爾違通事夥長言,故怒責爾』。於是番人益畏社棍,事之不啻帝天。 其情至於無告,而上之人無由知。是舉世所當哀矜者,莫番人若矣。乃以其異類 且歧視之;見其無衣,曰:『是不知寒』;見其雨行露宿,曰:『彼不致疾』; 見其負重馳遠,曰:『若本耐勞』。噫!若亦人也!其肢體皮骨,何莫非人? 而云若是乎?馬不宿馳,牛無偏駕,否且致疾;牛馬且然,而況人乎? 抑知彼苟多帛,亦重綈矣,寒胡為哉?彼苟無事,亦安居矣,暴露胡為哉? 彼苟免力役,亦暇且逸矣,奔走負戴於社棍之室胡為哉?夫樂飽暖而苦飢寒, 厭勞役而安逸豫,人之性也;異其人,何必異其性?仁人君子,知不吐余言。 七月望,炎暑漸退,新涼襲人。有役夫自省中初至者十二人,方共具飯醪, 為中元祀鬼事,向空山羅拜,余笑而賚之酒;其明日,有三人忽稱病。 十七日,病者又五人,北風大作。十八日,風愈橫,而十二人悉不起, 爨煙遽絕。自十九日至二十一日,大風拔木,三晝夜不輟,草屋二十余間, 圮者過半。夜臥聞草樹聲與海濤聲,澎湃震耳,屋漏如傾,終夜數起,不能交睫。 二十二日,風雨益橫,屋前草亭飛去,如空中舞蝶。余屋三楹,風至兩柱並折, 慮屋圮無容身地,冒雨攜斧斨自伐六樹支棟,力憊甚。而萬山崩流並下, 汎濫四溢,顧病者皆仰臥莫起,急呼三板來渡。余猶往來岸上,尚欲為室中 所有計,不虞水勢驟湧,急趨屋後深草中避之;水隨踵至,自沒脛沒膝, 至於及胸。凡在大風雨中涉水行三四里;風至時時欲仆,以杖掖之, 得山巖番室暫棲。暮,無從得食,以身衣向番兒易隻雞充餒。中夜風力猶勁。 二十三日,平明,風雨俱息;比午,有霽色,呼番兒棹莽葛至山下渡 余登海舶,過草廬舊址,惟平地而已。余既倖生存,亦不復更念室中物。 敝衣猶足蔽體,解付舟人,就日曝乾,復衣之;遂居舟中。二十五日, 水既落,乘海舶出港,至張大所。有病者一人殞舟中,為藁葬山下,以屍骨無渡 海理也。二十八日,視舟中病者轉劇,因遣海舶急歸。余獨留張大家,命張大 為余再治屋。二十九日,復大風雨四晝夜,洪水又至,走二靈山避之, 驚怖又甚於前。幸早避,得免涉水。然在空山中,竟一日夜不得食。 初四日,雨止風息,再返張大所。初八日,有一舶入港,言初五日三舶同自省 中來,半渡遭風,一舶已碎,其一不知所往;友人顧君敷公在焉,念之甚切。 自此旦旦出海上望之。十五日,中秋節,番兒報舊址茅屋成,尚有臺郡病夫二 人不能歸者,從余走海岸沙際遙望。午後,張大攜餚核至,與余就沙際飲。 抵暮而返,不見一帆。十六日,乘莽葛返茅屋中,與病夫二人俱。視新結茅 三區,區各三楹,余與二病夫各占一區。夜惟孤影,四面猿啼鬼嘯聲不輟。 有臺令李子鵠梅花書屋詩一卷,雋永可玩,坐常至夜分。一日,甫就枕, 殘燈既熄,帳前有火光如盌,碧色,去地三尺許,知其燐也;審視久之而滅。 二十五日,忽聞有海舶至,驚喜出戶,則顧君敷公至矣。問遭風飄泊何所? 云: 『是日,西岸頗無風,半渡風至,舟人強持之,已見雞籠、二靈諸山;值潮落, 不得入港。陳某一舶已觸岸為齏粉,惕然轉舵,歸西岸,泊定海鎮山下,舟中 器具悉敗,需補製,而大風又半月不輟,故遲來,幸無恙』。而余前遣歸 一舶,亦以是日至;問病者歸去何若?則死已過半矣!計兩舶中復來夫役近 六十人。明日再修釜突,煎煉硫土,一如曩昔。夜則與顧君共論前代海防及 偽鄭故事,議其得喪。私謂吾兩人已絕蠻貊,蹈非人之境,人將不堪憂, 如吾兩人,豈非不改其樂者歟?復一夕,就寢未寐,余視屋外火光如箕,赤色 耀目。余以見慣不怪,顧君駭曰:『君榻下何故燃燭』?余笑曰:『火從君 枕畔來,照吾榻下,君試反顧,必有所見』。顧君遽躍起,方結衣褌,欲出戶, 火光漸滅。又一夕,有鳴鏑過枕畔,恐野番乘夜加遺,出戶視之,不見一物。 十月朔,硫事既竣,將理歸棹,命眾役夫向山間刈薪;午後又使人艤三板水涯 以待,見四人並坐樹下,疑刈薪有先歸者,趨問之,已不見。種種幻妄, 皆鬼物也,人之居此,寧不病且殆乎?初四日,復出,至張大家與別,遂登舟。 初七日,未刻,值風便,與顧君舶同出大海。北風方勁,巨浪如山; 行不數里,余舟檣折有聲,迴視顧君一舶,亦大呼檣折。二舶在巨浪中, 既無復入港理,隨風蕩漾,意必飄南方千里外,憂不能寐。初八日,侵曉, 風稍息,余攬衣出視,晨光初動,宿霧未收;而一輪紅日,從鷁尾水底湧出, 三躍而後昇,大如車輪,海波盡赤,不瞬息已高丈余矣。向聞登州日觀擅奇, 殆未必如余所睹也。將午,遙見遠山在有無間,猶疑為海上雲氣;午後, 審視漸真,舟師謂是省城官塘山。夜半,抵官塘;猶屬海外孤島,不連內地。 初九日,自官塘趨定海鎮。已刻,將近山,顧君一舶業已先至,相見如夢; 意二舶檣折,無並全理,竟達會城,嘆為神助。望山上兩城遙峙,前人築為 犄角互守計者也。命舟師櫂三板登岸,周覽一匝,略得形勢之概。沿海市肆 碁布,漁艇有大於海舶者。覽畢登舟,乘順風南行,去岸甚遠,仍行大海中 五六十里。至五虎門,兩山夾峙,勢甚雄險;又有巨石綿亙入海,如五虎 蹲踞中流,實閩省門戶也。門外風力鼓蕩,舟勢顛越;既入門,靜淥淵渟, 與門外迥別矣。左望山巒斷處,為梅花嶼,沙淤水淺,非潮長不能出入。 更進為亭頭(土音讀作城頭),是近海大村落。至則暮矣,命從者攜臥具, 與顧君偕登怡山僧院假宿焉。老僧粗解文義,可與語。壁間有詩,倚韻為 五言律:『弱水歸帆遠,驚濤日夜紛;青衫余蜃氣,寶劍有龍文;暫息滄州 (豪按別本作併州)駕,還瞻故國雲;鐘聲與禪誦,清響得重聞』。 初十日,復登舟,苦水涸,必候潮至始行;十里至閩安鎮,有副帥,屯兵千人 守口;再行十里,膠淺不前。十一日,行不數里。十二日,趁微風, 以棹佐之,望見南臺大橋。周子宣玉率數僕乘小艇來迓,既見,歡甚; 余與宣玉共乘小艇,同至大橋,登陸。入城,求晤曩時餞送諸交好,惟裘子 紹衣、何子襄臣、表姪周在魯三人在,余或歸家,或他適,不可得見; 獨呂子鴻圖先我渡海歸,差可喜。再睹城市景物,憶半載處非人之境, 不啻隔世,不知較化鶴歸來者何如?余向慕海外遊,謂弱水可掬、三山可即, 今既目極蒼茫,足窮幽險,而所謂神仙者,不過裸體文身之類而已!縱有閬苑 蓬瀛,不若吾鄉瀲灩空濛處簫鼓畫船、雨奇晴好,足繫吾思也。觀止矣! 寄語秦、漢之君,毋事褰裳濡足也!追憶遊歷所睹,再為土番竹枝以詠之。 生來曾不識衣衫,裸體年年耐歲寒;犢鼻也知難免俗,烏青三尺是圍 闌。烏青是黑布名。文身舊俗是雕青,背上盤旋鳥翼形;一變又為文豹 鞹,蛇神牛鬼共猙擰。半線以北,胸背皆作豹文,如半臂之在體。胸背 斕斑直到腰,爭誇錯錦勝鮫綃;冰肌玉腕都文遍,只有雙蛾不解描。 番婦臂股,文繡都遍,獨頭面蓬垢,不知修飾;以無鏡可照,終身不能一睹 其貌也番兒大耳是奇觀,少小都將兩耳鑽;截竹塞輪輪漸大,如錢如碗復 如盤。番兒大耳如盤,立則垂肩,行則撞胸。同類競以耳大為豪,故不辭 痛楚為之。丫髻三叉似幼童,髮根偏愛繫紅絨;出門又插文禽尾,陌上颻搖 各鬥風。覆額薺眉繞亂莎,不分男女似頭陀;晚來女伴臨溪浴,一隊 鸕鶿蕩綠波。半線以北,男女皆翦髮覆額,狀若頭陀。番婦無老幼, 每近日暮,必浴溪中。鑢貝雕螺各盡功,陸離斑駁碧兼紅;番兒項下 重重遶,客至疑過繡領宮。銅篐鐵鐲儼刑人,鬥怪爭奇事事新;多少丹青 摹變相,畫圖那得似生成?老翁似女女如男,男女無分總一般;口角有髭 皆拔盡,鬚眉卻作婦人顏。腰下人人插短刀,朝朝磨礪可吹毛;殺人屠狗 般般用,纔罷樵薪又索綯。人各一刀,頃刻不離,斫伐割剝,事事用之。 畊田鑿井自艱辛,緩急何曾叩比鄰?構屋斵輪還結網,百工俱備一人身。番人不知 交易、借貸、有無相通理,鄰人有粟,饑者不之貸也。畢世所需,皆自為而後 用之。輕身矯捷似猿猱,編竹為篐束細腰;等得吹簫尋鳳侶,從今割斷伴妖嬈。 番兒以射鹿逐獸為生,腹大則走不疾,自孩孺即篐其腰,至長不弛, 常有足追奔馬者。結縭之夕始斷之。男兒待字早離娘,有子成童任遠 颺;不重生男重生女,家園原不與兒郎。番俗以婿紹瓜瓞,有子不得 承父業,故不知有姓氏。女兒纔到破瓜時,阿母忙為構室居;吹得鼻 簫能合調,任教自擇可人兒。番女與鄰兒私通,得以自擇所愛。只須 嬌女得歡心,那見堂開孔雀屏?既得歡心纔挽手,更加鑿齒締姻盟。 亂髮鬖鬖不作緺,常將兩手自搔爬;飛蓬畢世無膏沐,一樣綢繆是室 家。番婦亂髮如蓬,蟣蝨遶走其上,時以五指代梳。誰道番姬巧解釀? 自將生米嚼成漿;竹筒為甕床頭掛,客至開筒勸客嘗。夫攜弓矢婦鋤 耰,無褐無衣不解愁;番罽一圍聊蔽體,雨來還有鹿皮兜。鹿皮藉地 為臥具,遇雨即以覆體。竹弓楛矢赴鹿場,射得鹿來交社商;家家婦 子門前盼,飽惟余瀝是頭腸。番人射得麋鹿以付社商收掌充賦,惟頭 腸無用,得與妻孥共飽。莽葛元來是小舠,刳將獨木似浮瓢;月明海 澨歌如沸,知是番兒夜弄潮。番人夫婦,乘莽葛射魚,歌聲竟夜不輟。 種秫秋來甫入場,舉家為計一年糧;余皆釀酒呼群輩,共罄平原十日觴。秫米登場, 即以為酒,男女藉草劇飲歌舞,晝夜不輟,不盡不止。梨園敝服盡蒙茸, 男女無分只尚紅;或曳朱襦或半臂,土官氣象已從容。土官購戲衣為公服, 但求紅紫,不問男女。土番舌上掉都盧,對酒歡呼打剌酥;聞道金亡避元難, 颶風吹到始謀居。番語皆滾舌作都盧轂轆聲。深山負險聚遊魂,一種名為傀儡 番;博得頭顱當戶列,髑髏多處是豪門。深山野番,種類實繁,舉傀儡番以概其餘。 [End of this Etext of 裨海紀遊] *** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 裨海紀遊 *** Updated editions will replace the previous one—the old editions will be renamed. 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