Austria-Hungary, including Dalmatia, Bosnia, Bucharest, Belgrade, and Montenegro. With 71 Maps, 77 Plans, and 2 Panoramas. Eleventh edition. 1911

The Eastern Alps, including the Bavarian Highlands, Tyrol, Salzburg, Upper and Lower Austria, Styria, Carinthia, and Carniola. With 73 Maps, 16 Plans, and 11 Panoramas. Twelfth edition. 1911

Belgium and Holland, including the Grand-Duchy of Luxembourg. With 19 Maps and 45 Plans. Fifteenth edition. 1910

The Dominion of Canada, with Newfoundland and an Excursion to Alaska. With 14 Maps and 12 Plans. Fourth edition. 1922

Constantinople and Asia Minor, in German only:

Konstantinopel und Kleinasien, Balkanstaaten, Archipel, Cypern. Mit 18 Karten und 65 Plänen. 2. Aufl. 1914

Czechoslovakia, see Austria-Hungary.

Denmark, see Norway, Sweden and Denmark.

Egypt and the Sûdân. With 22 Maps, 85 Plans, and 55 Vignettes. Seventh edition. 1914

England, see Great Britain.

France:

Paris and its Environs, with Routes from London to Paris. With 66 Maps and Plans. Nineteenth edition. 1924

Northern France from Belgium and the English Channel to the Loire excluding Paris and its Environs. With 16 Maps and 55 Plans. Fifth edition. 1909

Southern France from the Loire to the Pyrenees, Auvergne, the Cévennes, the French Alps, the Rhone Valley, Provence, the French Riviera, and Corsica. With 42 Maps, 63 Plans, and 1 Panorama. Sixth edition. 1914

Algeria and Tunisia, see The Mediterranean.

Germany:

Berlin and its Environs. With 30 Maps and Plans. Sixth edition. 1923

Northern Germany, excluding the Rhineland. With 165 Maps and Plans. Seventeenth edition. 1925

Southern Germany (Wurtemberg and Bavaria). With 37 Maps and 50 Plans. Twelfth edition. 1914

The Rhine including the Moselle, the Volcanic Eifel, the Taunus, the Odenwald, the Vosges Mountains, the Black Forest, etc. With 128 Maps and Plans. Seventeenth edition. 1911

Great Britain. England, Wales, and Scotland. With 28 Maps, 65 Plans, and a Panorama. Seventh edition. 1910

London and its Environs. With 45 Maps and Plans. Eighteenth edition. 1923

Greece, the Greek Islands, and an Excursion to Crete. With 16 Maps, 30 Plans, and a Panorama of Athens. Fourth edition. 1909

Holland, see Belgium and Holland.

India, in German only:

Indien, Ceylon, Vorderindien, Birma, die malayische Halbinsel, Siam, Java. Mit 22 Karten, 33 Plänen und 8 Grundrissen. 1914

Italy: I. Northern Italy, including Leghorn, Florence, Ravenna, and Routes through France, Switzerland, and Austria. With 36 Maps, 45 Plans, and a Panorama. Fourteenth edition. 1913

II. Central Italy and Rome. With 19 Maps, 55 Plans and Views, and the Arms of the Popes since 1417. Fifteenth edition. 1909

III. Southern Italy and Sicily, including Malta, Sardinia, Tunis, and Corfu. With 64 Maps and Plans. Sixteenth edition. 1912

Italy from the Alps to Naples. With 25 Maps and 52 Plans and Sketches. Second edition. 1909

The Mediterranean. Seaports and Sea Routes, including Madeira, the Canary Islands, the Coast of Morocco, Algeria, and Tunisia. With 38 Maps and 49 Plans. 1911

Norway, Sweden, and Denmark, with Excursions to Iceland and Spitzbergen. With 104 Maps and Plans. Tenth edition. 1912

Palestine and Syria, including the principal routes through Mesopotamia and Babylonia. With 21 Maps, 56 Plans, and a Panorama of Jerusalem. Fifth edition. 1912

Portugal, see Spain and Portugal.

Riviera, see Southern France.

Russia, with Teheran, Port Arthur, and Peking. With 40 Maps and 78 Plans. 1914

Manual of the Russian Language, with Vocabulary and List of Phrases. 1914

Scotland, see Great Britain.

Spain and Portugal, with Excursions to Tangier and the Balearic Islands. With 20 Maps and 59 Plans. Fourth edition. 1913

Sweden, see Norway, Sweden, and Denmark.

Switzerland, together with Chamonix and the Italian Lakes. With 80 Maps, 21 Plans, and 14 Panoramas. Twenty-sixth edition. 1922

Tyrol, see The Eastern Alps.

The United States, with Excursions to Mexico, Cuba, Porto Rico and Alaska. With 33 Maps and 48 Plans. Fourth edition. 1909

Wales, see Great Britain.

The present Handbook to the Mediterranean describes the chief routes along the Mediterranean coasts. In his endeavour to unite within a single volume the chief points of interest in so vast a region the Editor has naturally been confronted by peculiar difficulties. These points are so numerous that little space could be afforded for more subordinate matters, so that many details have necessarily been omitted. Again as regards the selection of routes, and of places to be described, opinions frequently differ. The Editor ventures, however, to hope that on the whole he has satisfied the requirements of most of his readers. As many of the regions which are here grouped historically and geographically^[1] have already been treated of in several of his other Handbooks, the Editor would respectfully refer the traveller to these for fuller details^[2]. The new subjects comprise Madeira and the Canary Islands, the coast of Morocco, and Algeria and Tunisia, the materials for describing which have been collected, in the course of much travel, by several of the Editor’s friends and fellow-workers. The chief Author of the German edition, which appeared in 1909, was Dr. F. Propping, of Godesberg on the Rhine, who personally visited most of the places described. The present English edition has been prepared by the Editor’s old friend, emeritus Professor John Kirkpatrick, formerly of Edinburgh University, who fifty years viago (1861) translated the Handbook for the Rhine, and thus introduced ‘Baedeker’s guidebooks’ to the English public. In bringing the information contained in the new Mediterranean volume up to date the Editor has received valuable aid from British and United States consuls and ministers, and from other authorities, who have shown the utmost courtesy and willingness to assist. To all of these the Editor expresses his grateful acknowledgments. Many readers will be interested also in the geographical sketch by the late Professor Theobald Fischer (d. 1910), one of the great authorities on the Mediterranean coast-lands.

Special care has been bestowed on the Maps and Plans with which the Handbook is furnished. Several of these are based on materials hitherto unpublished, and others have been locally revised and improved for the special benefit of the Handbook. In the case of Algeria and Tunisia the French spelling has been adopted in the letter-press as well as in the maps^[3].

Hotels. As in all his Handbooks the Editor has taken the utmost care to recommend none but comfortable and respectable hotels. From this, as from all his other Handbooks, advertisements, direct and indirect, are absolutely excluded. Persons calling themselves agents for Baedeker’s Handbooks are impostors and should be handed over to the police.

As many matters treated of in the Handbook are liable to frequent change and as, in the Orient particularly, trustworthy sources of information are too often lacking, the Editor will warmly appreciate any communications with which travellers may kindly favour him.

(The Maps and Plans are oriented in the usual way, with the North at the top, unless otherwise indicated.)

1.

General Map of the Mediterranean (1 : 8,250,000) before the title-page.

2.

Environs of Lisbon (1 : 250,000), p. 14.

3.

Madeira (1 : 400,000), p. 17.

4.

Environs of Funchal (1 : 120,000), p. 21.

5.

The Canary Islands (1 : 7,500,000), p. 28.

6.

Teneriffe (1 : 450,000), p. 28.

7.

Environs of Puerto Orotava (1 : 100,000), p. 28.

8.

Environs of Las Palmas (1 : 250,000), p. 46.

9.

Andalusia and the Straits of Gibraltar (1 : 2,750,000), p. 49.

10.

Environs of Tangier (1 : 40,000), p. 98.

11.

Environs of Naples (1 : 500,000), p. 141.

12.

Straits of Messina (1 : 200,000), p. 155.

13.

Environs of Syracuse (1 : 50,000), p. 162.

14.

Algeria and Tunisia (1 : 8,250,000), W. part, p. 167.

15.

Environs of Oran (1 : 150,000), p. 175.

16.

Environs of Tlemcen (1 : 50,000), p. 187.

17.

Environs of Blida (1 : 250,000), p. 213.

18.

Nearer Environs of Algiers (1 : 100,000), p. 233.

19.

Remoter Environs of Algiers (1 : 500,000), p. 233.

20.

Environs of Bougie (1 : 50,000), p. 262.

21.

Environs of Biskra (1 : 100,000), p. 279.

22.

Environs of Lambèse and Timgad (1 : 500,000), p. 289.

23.

Environs of Philippeville (1 : 150,000), p. 304.

24.

Environs of Bona (1 : 200,000), p. 309.

25.

Algeria and Tunisia (1 : 8,250,000), E. part, p. 319.

26.

Environs of Tunis (1 : 250,000), p. 338.

27.

Environs of Susa (1 : 50,000), p. 366.

28.

Environs of Sfax (1 : 50,000), p. 380.

29.

The Island of Malta (1 : 320,000), p. 399.

30.

Environs of Tripoli in Barbary (1 : 80,000), p. 406.

31.

The Lagoons of Venice (1 : 340,100), p. 419.

32.

Environs of Cairo (1 : 250,000), p. 458.

33.

The Island of Corfu (1 : 300,000), p. 497.

34.

Environs of the Town of Corfu (1 : 60,000), p. 497.

35.

Environs of Athens (1 : 150,000), p. 528.

36.

Environs of Constantinople (1 : 140,000), p. 537.

37.

The Bosporus (1 : 200,000), p. 557.

38.

Environs of Yalta (1 : 166,000), p. 569.

Abbreviations.

Hôt., Hot. = hotel.

Alb. = albergo (hotel).

Restaur. = restaurant.

R. = room with one bed, usually incl. light and attendance.

B. = breakfast (coffee, etc.).

déj. = déjeuner, hot lunch.

D. = dinner.

pens. = pension, board incl. R. unless contrary stated.

rfmts. = refreshments.

omn. = omnibus.

N., S., E., W. = north, northern, south, southern, etc.

r. = right, l. = left.

M. = mile; sq. M. = square mile; ft. = foot, feet; yd. = yard, etc.

min. = minute; hr. = hour.

R. = route. Pl. = plan.

dr., l. = drachme, lepta.

fr., c. = franc, centime; Ital. lira, centesimo.

K, h = krone, heller (Austrian currency).

xiil., s., d. = pound sterling, shilling, pence, g. = guinea.

mej. = mejidieh.

p., c. = peseta, centimo.

pias., mill. = piastre, millième.

s. pias. = silver piastre.

rs. = reis (plur. of real; comp. p. 6)

roub., cop. = rouble, copeck.

comp. = compare.

adm. = admission, admittance.

Asterisks (*) denote objects of special interest and hotels that are believed to be worthy of special commendation.

The number of ft. (1 Engl. ft. = 0.3048 mètre; 1 mètre = 3.281 Engl. ft. or about 3 ft. 3⅓ in.) given after the name of a place shows its height above the sea-level.

The number of M. (1 Engl. mile = 1.6093 kilomètres; 1 kilomètre = 0.6214 M.) placed before the principal places of a route indicates their distance from the starting-point of the route.

International Hotel Telegraphic Code.

The international association of hotel-keepers has agreed on the following code: Alba, room with single bed; albaduo, room with double bed; arab, room with two beds; abec, room with three beds; belab, two rooms and two beds; birac, two rooms and three beds; bonad, two rooms and four beds; ciroc, three rooms and three beds; carid, three rooms and four beds; calde, three rooms and five beds; caduf, three rooms and six beds; casag, three rooms and seven beds; danid, four rooms and four beds; dalme, four rooms and five beds; danof, four rooms and six beds; dalag, four rooms and seven beds; dirich, four rooms and eight beds; durbi, four rooms and nine beds; kind, child’s bed; sal, saloon, private sitting-room; bat, private bathroom; serv, servant’s room. The class of room may be indicated by best, bon, or plain. Day and hour of arrival must be notified (granmatin is midnight to 7 a.m., matin is 7–12, sera 12–7, and gransera 7 to midnight), and also duration of stay (pass means one night, stop means several days, but is not binding). Name and address of applicant must be given; if prevented from coming, ‘cancel‘, with his signature, suffices.

Bibliography.

‘Mediterranean Winter Resorts’ by E. Reynolds-Ball (6th ed., London, 1908; price 6s.) although far from exhaustive, contains much useful and practical information. The art of the Orient is admirably treated of in the ‘Manuel d’Art Musulman’ by H. Saladin and G. Migeon (Paris, 1907; 30 fr.). Among excellent German books are Theob. Fischer’s ‘Mittelmeerbilder’ (2 vols., Leipzig, 1906, 1908; each 6 marks), and A. Philippson’s ‘Mittelmeergebiet’ (Leipzig, 1907; 7 marks).

Books on Algeria, see p. 175; on Athens, see p. 508; on Cairo, see p. 444; on the Canary Islands, see p. 32; on Carthage, see p. 343; on Constantinople, see p. 542; on Cordova, see p. 69; on Granada and the Alhambra, see pp. 65, 80; on Jerusalem, see p. 473; on Madeira, see p. 20; on Morocco, see pp. 97, 98; on Seville, see p. 61; on Tebessa, see p. 315; on Timgad, see p. 289; on Tunisia, see p. 325.

I. Season and Plan of Tour. Health.

Season of Tour. The mildness of the climate (p. xxxv) makes travelling pleasant in the Mediterranean lands at almost any season. Even in the height of summer travellers who can stand a little heat will find residence in many of the islands and seaside resorts quite agreeable. Winter begins here much later and ends much earlier than in Northern or Central Europe, but until the end of March few regions are quite exempt from wintry days and falls of snow. March is considered also the windiest month in the year on the Mediterranean.

For the Portuguese coast, Andalusia, and Northern Morocco (Tangier) the best seasons are from the middle of March to the middle of May and the months of October and November. Granada, which lies high, is suitable for a prolonged stay from April till the middle of June. Seville and Cordova are often uncomfortably cold in December and January owing to lack of heating appliances. At Lisbon and Tangier winter is the season of the fertilizing rains, which often last till the middle of March. With regard to the best season for Madeira and the Canary Islands, see pp. 19, 32.

The weather is generally bright and genial in Algeria, Tunisia, and Tripolitania in late autumn, till the end of November, and also in March and April, though less settled. Winter is a dry season only on the E. coast of Tunisia and in the Sahara, but is sometimes cool and windy (see also pp. 170, 172, 321). It is still hot in October in Sicily, in Barbary, and in Egypt, where the sirocco (p. 321) is specially disagreeable in the early autumn, while health is endangered by malaria (p. xvi).

xivOf all the Mediterranean regions Egypt alone offers a dry, settled, and genial climate in winter. The traveller on the Eastern Mediterranean who wishes to avoid extremes of cold and heat should make his first stay at Cairo in January or February, start for the Syrian coast at the end of February or early in March, proceed to Palestine and Damascus after March has commenced, and visit Asia Minor and Greece in April, and Constantinople and the Black Sea in May. In autumn, from the end of September onwards, the above order should be reversed.

Plan of Tour. The traveller is advised to draw up a careful programme of his tour before starting. All the places described in the Handbook may be reached by steamer, or partly overland, at any time of the year, but during the winter season (from about the end of October to the middle of May) much greater facilities are offered by excursion-steamers (see pp. xviii, 1, 2), circular tickets, and combined tickets. American travellers may sail direct from New York or Boston to some of the Mediterranean ports (see p. xviii). Travellers from Great Britain may start from London, Liverpool, Southampton, or Dover, or if they dread a long sea-voyage may proceed overland to Marseilles, to Genoa, to Naples, to Brindisi, to Venice, or to Trieste (comp. p. xxiv), and begin their Mediterranean tour from one of these points. Some may prefer the overland route to Spain and Gibraltar, while others again may find it more convenient to travel all the way to Constantinople (Orient Express), to Constantza (Ostend-Vienna Express), or to Odessa (viâ Vienna and Cracow) by railway, and thence explore the Mediterranean from east to west. The railway routes will be found in ‘Bradshaw’s Continental Railway Guide’ or in the German ‘Reichskursbuch’. For the ‘trains de luxe’ services tickets must be obtained from the International Sleeping Car Co. (London, 20 Cockspur St., S.W.; Paris, 3 Place de l’Opéra; New York, 281 Fifth Ave.; Berlin, 69 Unter den Linden). For the sea-routes, see p. xvii; for particulars application should be made to the various companies or their handbooks consulted. Excursion, circular, and combined tickets are issued by Messrs. Thos. Cook & Son, Ludgate Circus, and by other tourist-agents. It may be noted here that the ‘pleasure-cruises’ organized by many of the companies offer great attractions at moderate cost, but at the almost entire sacrifice of personal independence, while the fellow-passengers with whom one is associated for weeks may not always be congenial.

As a general rule it is pleasanter and less expensive to travel with one or more companions than alone. Apart from hotel charges and railway and steamboat fares, the cost for two or three persons is often no greater than for one. Moreover, when off the beaten track the traveller thus escapes from monotonous and monosyllabic conversation with native guides or drivers (comp. pp. xxv, xxvi), xvand in case of illness or accident he is far more certain of obtaining assistance and relief.

The most useful language in most parts of the Mediterranean is French. In Portugal, Madeira, and the Canary Islands English is much spoken, in Egypt it is the leading language. Italian is very useful in Tunisia, on the coast of Tripolitania and Barca, in Malta, throughout the Levant, in Greece, and at Constantinople. On the other hand a slight knowledge of Arabic will be found most useful throughout the whole of N. Africa, from Morocco to Egypt, and in Palestine and Syria.

Some Hints on Health may be of advantage to the inexperienced traveller from the north. As a rule an overcoat or extra wraps should be put on at sundown, though they may often be dispensed with an hour or two later. When heated with walking the traveller should not rest in the shade. In hot climates like those of Egypt and the Sahara he should never remove his pith-helmet or other headgear in the sun. Grey spectacles or grey veils shield the eyes alike from the glare of the sun and from dust. Sunshades also are very desirable in hot weather. As a rule it is advisable to stay within doors during the heat of the day. On the other hand many places on the Mediterranean are cold in winter, Lower Egypt and Cairo being no exceptions. Steamboat passengers, too, will generally find warm clothing very desirable between October and the middle of May. An extra coat or shawl should be donned in museums, churches, mosques, and other buildings with stone pavement, as the air is often very chilly.

When engaging rooms visitors should insist on a southern aspect, which is almost essential for the delicate and highly desirable for the robust. In every case, especially if the rooms do not face due south, they should have a fireplace or else central heating. In the Mediterranean regions, where many of the plainer hotels have stone or brick floors, carpets are essential to comfort.

With regard to diet also a few general hints may be serviceable. Oysters, fish, salads, and tinned meats should be absolutely avoided. Raw fruit, except perhaps oranges and grapes, should be partaken of very sparingly. Ices and iced drinks also are apt to be upsetting. The contents of siphons, lemonade, and other ‘refreshing beverages’ are not unfrequently composed of polluted water. The safest liquids are boiled water, natural mineral waters, tea, coffee, good red wine, and, in moderation, sound English or German beer. Fairly good cognac or even whiskey may be obtained almost everywhere, but for the time-honoured ‘soda’ or ‘potash’ it is safer to substitute boiled or mineral water.

Colds, errors in diet, malaria, and over-exertion are the chief sources of the sharp attacks of illness to which even the hardiest travellers from the north are liable in the ‘sunny south’. Sunstroke xviis another danger. Against all these the traveller requires to be more on his guard than at home, where his nerves and his digestion are much less liable to be overtaxed. Care and moderation in sight-seeing and touring are therefore hardly less important than attention to diet.

Before the journey is begun a supply of a few simple remedies (see below) may be prepared with the advice of the traveller’s physician. In cases of serious illness one of the properly qualified doctors mentioned in the text should be consulted.

Diarrhoea, which may develop into dysentery, one of the commonest complaints, generally results from catching cold or from eating unwholesome food. The patient should first take a slight aperient and afterwards several doses of bismuth. The diet should be arrowroot (which should always accompany the traveller), rice or some other farinaceous food, and milk; fruit, meat, fatty substances, and alcohol should be avoided. In obstinate cases a change of climate is sometimes the only remedy.

Sprains are best treated with cold compresses; the injured part should be tightly bandaged and given perfect rest. In the case of a snake bite or scorpion sting the wound should be immediately treated with ammonia, or better still, cauterized. Sunstroke is not common in winter, but may easily occur as late as November or as early as April. The usual remedies are rest and shade; cold appliances are used for the head and neck; in case of high temperature these should be iced. The best protection for the head is either a pith-helmet, or a tall perforated straw-hat, with several folds of gauze round it and hanging down over the back of the neck. When the eyes are irritated with glare or dust frequent washing with a weak boracic or zinc lotion affords relief (comp. also p. xv).

Lastly a few simple and well-known remedies, most of which may be obtained in a tabloid form, may be mentioned for other common ailments: cascara sagrada, castor-oil, ‘Tamar Indien’, or Epsom salts for constipation; a zinc or starch dusting-powder for chafed sores due to riding; tincture of arnica, or Elliman’s embrocation, antiseptic wool, collodion, and sticking-plaster, for bruises and wounds; ammonia (sal-ammoniac) or other antidote (muscatol) to stings or bites; disinfectants, carbolic acid, insect-powder; chlorodyne for neuralgia; quinine for cases of fever. Fever, be it noted, especially in malarious regions (Sardinia, Sicily, Algeria, Tunisia, Greece) is propagated by mosquitoes, especially by the female of the Anopheles Claviger. Light curtains round the beds should therefore be used to ward off the attacks of these troublesome insects. At dusk, and at night when the room is lighted, the windows should always be carefully closed. When a bite has been received the inflamed part should be at once rubbed with ammonia.

It should, however, be added, in order to reassure the timid or nervous traveller, that few of these elaborate precautions are necessary except for enterprising explorers who often leave the beaten track or whose tour extends beyond the usual winter season.

II. Money, Passport, Custom House.

Money. A small sum of money to start with should be taken in English or French gold, but large sums should always be carried in the form of circular notes, care being observed to keep the notes and the ‘letter of indication’ quite separate. These notes are issued by the London and the Scottish banks and by Messrs. Thos. Cook xvii& Son (Ludgate Circus). The cheques issued by the American Express Companies, by the American Bankers Association, and by the International Mercantile Marine Co. are also convenient. Wherever the traveller lands he will find an ample supply of the small change of the country very needful.

Passports are not absolutely necessary, except in Turkey and in Russia; but consuls, and sometimes bankers, require more convincing proof of identity than a visiting-card. Passports must be shown at the post-offices also in order to obtain delivery of registered letters.

Passports may be procured in England direct from the Passport Department of the Foreign Office, Whitehall (fee 2 s.), or through any tourist-agent.—In the United States they are obtained from the Bureau of Citizenship, State Department, Washington, D.C.—Travellers may generally get their passports visés for Turkey or Russia through one of the steamboat-companies or by applying to their consulate at one of the chief seaports, if they have omitted to take this step before leaving home.

The Custom House Examination at the various seaports and frontiers is seldom very rigorous; but the traveller should be careful to declare every new article not intended for personal use; and he should note particularly that cigars, tobacco, and cigarettes, weapons and ammunition (the import of the last four articles being entirely prohibited in Turkey), playing-cards, matches, etc. are liable to a heavy duty almost everywhere. These should therefore be carried in very small quantities or dispensed with altogether. It is rarely worth while carrying large supplies of any dutiable article, as the formalities are tedious and the expenses heavy.

In Turkey a second custom-house examination of luggage takes place when the traveller leaves the country, a small duty being levied on exports, while the export of antiques without the authority of government is forbidden. In Spain, Italy, and Greece also permission must be obtained to carry away works of art. Persons who have made large purchases, or have a superfluity of baggage to send home, had better employ a goods-agent.

III. Steamboats.

All the leading steamboat-companies are mentioned in the Handbook in connection with the different routes. The great Oriental, Australian, and other liners, of 5–12,000 tons’ burden and upwards, touch at very few Mediterranean ports (Gibraltar, Marseilles, Genoa, Naples, Port Said). Travellers desirous of visiting the Portuguese coast, Madeira and the Canary Islands, Algiers, Sardinia, Sicily, Tunisia, Athens, Constantinople, and many other places of interest must generally be content with smaller and often very inferior vessels. The sections of the following brief summary of the chief lines correspond with those into which the Handbook is divided.

xviiiFrom the United States to the Mediterranean.—White Star Line. From Boston about every three weeks to Gibraltar, Algiers, Naples, and Genoa, in 14–15 days. From New York at irregular intervals to Gibraltar, Naples, and Genoa, in 15–16 days. From Genoa viâ Naples to New York or Boston at irregular intervals. Fares: 1st cl. from New York to Gibraltar, Genoa, or Naples, from 16l., according to steamer; from Boston to Gibraltar, Algiers, Genoa, or Naples, from 16l. 10s.; from New York to Villefranche, from 19l. 10s.; 2nd cl. 13l.

Hamburg-American Line. From New York at irregular intervals to Gibraltar, Algiers, Naples (or Palermo), and Genoa, in 13 days, and vice versâ. Fares: 1st cl. from 17l. 10s., 2nd cl. 13l.

North German Lloyd Line. From New York on most Sat. to Gibraltar, Algiers (not in summer), Naples, and Genoa, in 13 days, returning on most Thursdays. Fares: 1st cl. from $87½, 2nd cl. from $65.

Cunard Line. From New York at irregular intervals to Gibraltar, Genoa, Naples, Trieste, and Fiume, in about 20 days, returning viâ Palermo, Naples, and Gibraltar. Fares to Trieste or Fiume, 1st cl. from 16l. 10s.; to Gibraltar, Genoa, or Naples from 14l. 10s.; 2nd cl. fares from 12l.

Among the regular pleasure-cruises from the United States to the Mediterranean may be mentioned those from Boston organized by the Bureau of University Travel; for excursion-steamers from England to the Mediterranean, see pp. 1, 2.

(1). Portuguese Coast (R. 1).

Pacific Line from Liverpool (31 James St.) fortnightly, for La Rochelle-Pallice (for Bordeaux), Corunna, Vigo, Leixões (for Oporto), Lisbon, and St. Vincent (Cape Verde), and thence to S. America. Passengers for Madeira, the Canary Islands, and the Mediterranean must of course tranship at Lisbon or St. Vincent.

Royal Mail Steam Packet Co., see p. xix.

Nederland Royal Mail Steamers (London office, 2 King William St., E.C.) and Rotterdam Lloyd, both fortnightly from Southampton to Lisbon, Tangier, etc.

Yeoward Bros. Line, see p. xix.

Hall Line, see p. xx.

Booth Line thrice monthly from Liverpool (office in the Tower Building) to Havre, Vigo, Leixões (for Oporto), Lisbon, and Madeira.

Ellerman Line weekly from Liverpool to Lisbon and Oporto.

Peninsular & Oriental Co., see p. xx.

German East African Line (London office, 14 St. Mary Axe, E.C.) once every three weeks from Southampton to Lisbon, Tangier, Marseilles, Naples, etc.

Hamburg-American Line (London office, 22 Cockspur St., S.W.) and Hamburg & South American Co. several times monthly from Southampton, calling occasionally at Lisbon.

Royal Holland Lloyd monthly from Dover to Boulogne, Corunna, Vigo, Lisbon, etc.

Compañía Trasatlántica (Philippines Line) monthly from Liverpool to Corunna, Vigo, Lisbon, Cadiz, etc.

Union Castle Line (London office, 3 Fenchurch St., E.C.) weekly from Southampton to Madeira; also fortnightly from London and Southampton touching alternately at Las Palmas and Teneriffe; also summer tours to Madeira, Las Palmas, and Teneriffe.

Royal Mail Steam Packet Co. (London office, 18 Moorgate St., E.C.) fortnightly from Southampton to Vigo, Lisbon, and Madeira; also round voyages from London, see p. xx.

Peninsular & Oriental Branch Service monthly from London (office, 3 East India Ave., E.C.) to Las Palmas.

Booth Line, see p. xviii.

Bucknall Line monthly from London (office, 23 Leadenhall St., E.C.) to Teneriffe.

Aberdeen (Thompson’s) Line monthly from London (office, 7 Billiter Square, E.C.) and Plymouth to Teneriffe.

Aberdeen (Rennie’s) Line about once every ten days from London (office, 4 East India Ave., E.C.) to Las Palmas and Teneriffe alternately.

German East African Line (London office, see p. xviii) once every three weeks from Southampton for Las Palmas and Teneriffe.

Woermann Line monthly from Dover to Las Palmas and Teneriffe.

New Zealand Line (London office, 138 Leadenhall St., E.C.) and Shaw, Savill, & Albion Line (London office, 34 Leadenhall St., E.C.), each monthly from London and Plymouth to Teneriffe.

Yeoward Bros. Line weekly from Liverpool (office, 27 Stanley St.) to Lisbon, Teneriffe, and Grand Canary, calling on alternate voyages at Madeira.

Federal, Houlder, & Shire Lines fortnightly from Liverpool, calling at Madeira, Las Palmas, or Teneriffe.

Natal Line fortnightly from London (office, 14 St. Mary Axe, E.C.) to Las Palmas.

Empreza Nacional de Navegação twice monthly, and Empreza Insulana once monthly from Lisbon to Madeira.

(3). Gibraltar and Andalusia (RR. 1, 5, 6 b, 11).

Peninsular & Oriental Co. once weekly from London (office, 122 Leadenhall St., E.C.) to Gibraltar, etc. Comp. also p. xx.

Orient Royal Line fortnightly from London (office, 5 Fenchurch St., E.C.) to Gibraltar, etc.

North German Lloyd fortnightly from Southampton (London office, 26 Cockspur St., S.W.).

Anchor Line almost weekly from Liverpool (office, 17 Water St.) or Glasgow (Anchor Line Buildings) to Gibraltar.

xxHall Line weekly from London (office, 31 Crutched Friars, E.C.) to Lisbon, Gibraltar, Málaga, and Cadiz.

Royal Mail Steam Packet Co., see below.

Moss Line fortnightly (office, 31 James St.) and Papayanni Line (office, 22 Water St.) occasionally from Liverpool to Gibraltar.

Vapores Correos de Africa from Algeciras to Tangier, Cadiz, and Ceuta.

(4). Morocco (RR. 13, 14).

Royal Mail Steam Packet Co. fortnightly from London (office, see p. xix) to Gibraltar, Tangier, etc., returning viâ Las Palmas, Teneriffe, and Madeira.

Nederland Royal Mail and Rotterdam Lloyd, see p. xviii.

German East African Line, see p. xviii.

Peninsular & Oriental Co. sends ‘Vectis’ or other excursion steamer from London (office, see p. xix) several times in spring and summer to Lisbon, Gibraltar, and Tangier.

Compañía Trasatlántica (Canary Line) calls at Tangier (if required also at Casablanca and Mazagan) once a month on the voyage to and from Barcelona.

Bland Line, small cargo-boats thrice weekly from Gibraltar to Tangier; also steamers from Tangier to Tetuán and Larash.

Oldenburg Portuguese Line fortnightly from Tangier to Rabât, Mogador, etc.

Vapores Correos de Africa twice monthly from Tangier to Larash, Rabât, Casablanca, Mazagan, Saffi, and Mogador.

N. Paquet & Co. weekly from Tangier to Rabât and Mogador.

Navigation Mixte weekly from Tangier for Melilla, Málaga, and Oran.

Hungarian Adria monthly from Gibraltar to Tangier and Oran.

(5). W. Mediterranean.

From Gibraltar to Genoa (R. 15a):—White Star Line (from New York or Boston) 2–3 times monthly; North German Lloyd (from Southampton) monthly; Cunard Line (from New York) occasionally; Lloyd Sabaudo (from S. America) once monthly.

From Gibraltar to Algiers (R. 15b):—North German Lloyd fortnightly; the Hamburg-American, the Austrian Lloyd, and the German Levant, all less regularly; Navigation Mixte (Touache Co.) to Oran (thence to Algiers by rail).

From Gibraltar to Marseilles (R. 17):—Peninsular & Oriental (from London) weekly; Orient Royal (from London) fortnightly.

From Gibraltar to Naples (R. 16):—Orient Royal (from London) fortnightly; North German Lloyd (from Southampton) twice, also (from New York) once or twice monthly; Cunard and White xxiStar (from New York or Boston), each two or three times a month; Hamburg-American (from New York) once or twice a month.

From Marseilles to Naples (R. 23):—Orient Royal (from London) fortnightly; North German Lloyd (from Southampton) fortnightly; German East African Line once in three weeks; Messageries Maritimes fortnightly; Hungarian Adria (cargo-boats) twice weekly.

From Marseilles to Algiers (R. 20):—Générale Transatlantique four times weekly; Transports Maritimes, twice weekly; Navigation Mixte (Touache Co.) weekly, also cargo-boat weekly.

From Marseilles to Tunis (R. 21):—North German Lloyd fortnightly (to Goletta only); Générale Transatlantique once weekly (and thence on to Malta), and viâ Bizerta once weekly; Navigation Mixte (Touache Co.) once weekly, and cargo-boats viâ Bizerta once weekly.

From Genoa to Naples (R. 24):—North German Lloyd (from Southampton) two or three times a month; Hamburg-American once or twice monthly; Cunard and White Star, each once monthly; Società Nazionale three or four times weekly; Italian Lloyd once, twice, or thrice monthly; La Veloce and Lloyd Sabaudo, each once monthly; Hungarian Adria twice weekly.

From Genoa to Tunis (R. 25):—Società Nazionale weekly; North German Lloyd fortnightly to Bizerta.

From Naples to Palermo (R. 26):—Steamers of the Ferrovie dello Stato daily; Società Nazionale weekly; Hungarian Adria twice weekly; Lloyd Sabaudo monthly.

From Palermo to Tunis (R. 26):—Società Nazionale weekly, also small cargo-boats weekly; Navigation Mixte (Touache Co.), cargo-boats weekly.

From Naples to Messina and Syracuse (R. 27):—Società Nazionale thrice weekly to Messina, and once weekly thence to Syracuse; also steamers of the Ferrovie dello Stato weekly from Naples to Messina, and of the North German Lloyd fortnightly from Naples to Catania.

From Tunis or Syracuse to Malta (R. 64):—Società Nazionale six times monthly; Hungarian Adria six times weekly. From London to Malta: Peninsular & Oriental usually weekly. From Liverpool to Naples and Malta: City Line about once monthly.

(6). Steamers to Algeria.

From Southampton to Algiers:—North German Lloyd once or twice monthly direct; Nederland Royal Mail fortnightly viâ Lisbon and Tangier.

From Marseilles to Oran (R. 19):—Générale Transatlantique twice weekly; Transports Maritimes once, and cargo-boat once xxiiweekly; Navigation Mixte (Touache Co.) once weekly (also weekly steamers from Cette to Oran).

From Marseilles to Algiers, see p. xxi.

From Gibraltar to Algiers, see p. xx.

From Cartagena to Oran (R. 18):—Générale Transatlantique once weekly.

From Tangier to Oran (R. 18):—Navigation Mixte (Touache Co.) weekly, also cargo-boats fortnightly; Hungarian Adria once monthly.

(7). Steamers to Tunis.

From Algiers to Tunis (R. 22):—Générale Transatlantique, coasting cargo-boats, once weekly; German Levant Line two or three times a month; Hungarian Adria once monthly to Tunis direct. Several other lines are available for sections of the route.

From Marseilles to Tunis, see p. xxi; from Naples to Palermo, and from Palermo to Tunis, see p. xxi; from Naples to Syracuse, and from Syracuse to Malta and Tunis, see p. xxi.

(8). Eastern Mediterranean.

From Tunis to Malta, see p. xxi.

From Tunis to Tripoli (R. 64):—Società Nazionale weekly, and Navigation Mixte (Touache Co.) weekly, both coasting. (From Algiers to Tripoli direct or viâ Malta, cargo-steamers of the German Levant Line.)

From Tripoli to Malta and Syracuse (R. 64):—Società Nazionale weekly, other boats fortnightly.

From Tripoli to Alexandria (R. 65):—German Levant Line, cargo-boats, thrice monthly; Banco di Roma fortnightly.

From Tripoli to Constantinople (R. 66):—Società Nazionale fortnightly.

From Marseilles, Genoa, and Naples to Alexandria (R. 67):—North German Lloyd weekly from Marseilles to Naples and Alexandria; Messageries Maritimes from Marseilles weekly to Alexandria direct; Società Nazionale weekly from Genoa to Leghorn, Naples, and Alexandria.

From Venice to Alexandria (R. 68):—Società Nazionale fortnightly, viâ Ancona, Bari, and Brindisi.

From Trieste to Alexandria (R. 68):—Austrian Lloyd weekly viâ Brindisi, and weekly viâ Gravosa and Brindisi.

Steamers to Port Said (RR. 67, 68):—All the great liners already mentioned and others besides converge at Port Said. Of the companies despatching vessels almost daily from British ports the following are the chief: Peninsular & Oriental (calling at Gibraltar, Marseilles, and Brindisi); Orient Royal and North German Lloyd xxiii(calling at Gibraltar, Marseilles, and Naples); Bibby (calling at Marseilles); City Line (calling at Naples and Malta); British India Line (calling occasionally at Marseilles, Genoa, or Naples); Nederland Royal Mail (viâ Genoa); Rotterdam Lloyd (viâ Marseilles); Queensland Line; Japan Mail (viâ Marseilles); and Compañía Trasatlántica (viâ Genoa).

Steamers to Palestine and Syria (R. 72):—Khedivial Mail, Austrian Lloyd, Russian Steam Navigation & Trading Co., Società Nazionale, all weekly from Alexandria to Port Said, Jaffa, Haifa, and Beirut; Messageries Maritimes fortnightly from Alexandria and Port Said to Beirut direct, and fortnightly calling at Jaffa; German Levant, cargo-boats, twice monthly from Alexandria to Jaffa, Haifa, and Beirut.

From Alexandria and Beirut to Smyrna and Constantinople (RR. 72, 75, 76):—Khedivial Mail fortnightly from Alexandria to Port Said, Beirut, Smyrna, and Constantinople; Russian Steam Navigation & Trading Co., similar route, weekly; Messageries Maritimes fortnightly from Beirut; La Phocéenne weekly from Alexandria to Smyrna (Constantinople).

Steamers to the Piræus (Athens; RR. 76, 77, 78):—Khedivial Mail, Rumanian Mail, Russian Steam Navigation & Trading Co., all weekly from Alexandria to the Piræus; North German Lloyd fortnightly from Marseilles to Genoa, Naples, Catania, and the Piræus; Messageries Maritimes fortnightly from Marseilles to the Piræus; Società Nazionale weekly from Genoa to Leghorn, Naples, Palermo, Messina, and the Piræus; Società Nazionale also weekly from Venice to Brindisi, Patras, and the Piræus; Austrian Lloyd weekly from Trieste to Patras and the Piræus; also Greek-Oriental and Thessalian lines of the same company, each weekly from Trieste to the Piræus; Greek Panhellenios Co. weekly from Trieste to Patras and the Piræus; Austro-Americana, New York line (quickest), weekly from Trieste to Patras (for Athens).

From the Piræus (Athens) viâ Smyrna to Constantinople (R. 80):—Khedivial Mail weekly; North German Lloyd, Messageries Maritimes, both fortnightly; Austrian Lloyd weekly; also Rumanian Mail, Società Nazionale, and Austrian Lloyd (the three quickest routes), each weekly to Constantinople direct.

(9). Black Sea.

From Constantinople to Constantza (R. 82):—Rumanian Mail (quickest) twice weekly; Austrian Lloyd alternate Fridays and alternate Saturdays; Società Nazionale weekly.

From Constantinople to Odessa (R. 83):—North German Lloyd fortnightly; Russian Steam Navigation & Trading Co., direct line, weekly; Syria and Egypt lines fortnightly; Anatolian line fortnightly; xxivAustrian Lloyd fortnightly; Società Nazionale weekly; Messageries Maritimes weekly.

From Odessa to Batum (R. 84):—Russian Steam Navigation & Trading Co. weekly; North German Lloyd monthly.

From Batum to Constantinople (R. 85):—North German Lloyd alternate Saturdays; Russian Steam Navigation & Trading Co. alternate Thursdays; Austrian Lloyd weekly; Messageries Maritimes, N. Paquet & Co., and Società Nazionale all fortnightly.

Overland Routes. Travellers bound for the Central or Eastern Mediterranean, and in particular those who wish to avoid the long voyage to Gibraltar and thus to save five, six, or more days, will choose an overland route to one or other of the Mediterranean ports. Marseilles is reached from London by the ‘P. & O. Express’, starting on Thursdays, or by the ‘Calais-Mediterranean Express’, daily in winter, in 20–20¼ hrs., or by ordinary express in 22½ hrs.—Genoa is 27 hrs. from London, viâ Paris and Mont Cenis.—Venice is 32¼ hrs. from London viâ Bâle and the St. Gotthard.—Trieste is reached in 43½ hrs. from London viâ Milan.—Naples is 46 hrs. from London viâ Paris and Rome.—Brindisi is reached in 45¼ hrs. by the ‘P. & O. Brindisi Express’, starting on Friday mornings, or by ordinary express, viâ Boulogne and Paris, in 54½ hrs.

Lastly, the traveller who proposes to explore the Mediterranean from east to west, and who desires to economize time, should consult Bradshaw’s Continental Railway Time Tables, or the German Reichskursbuch, or Hendschel’s Telegraph, as to the great Oriental expresses to Constantinople and the Black Sea.

Hints to Steamboat Passengers. During the height of the season (in Egypt Jan. and Feb., in other parts of the Mediterranean March, April and even May) passages often have to be booked a month or six weeks in advance. Holders of return-tickets or combined tickets must secure berths for the return-voyage also long beforehand.

Heavy Baggage, to be stowed away in the hold, should be sent on board at least one or two days beforehand. Each passenger should endeavour, for his own sake and that of others, to limit his requirements for the voyage to one or two cabin-trunks of moderate size. Private cabins should, as a rule, be kept locked, and small articles should not be left lying about on deck unwatched.

Landing or Embarkation by small boat is often an unpleasant proceeding, as the boatmen are apt to be extortionate in their demands, especially when the sea is rough. The charge for each passenger with his baggage should be ascertained beforehand and only paid at the end of the trip, or the whole transaction may be entrusted to one of the hotel-agents. Small articles carried in the hand should not be allowed out of sight.

The Food is generally good. Coffee is served between 8 and 10, lunch at 1 or earlier, dinner at 6 or 7. First-class passengers in the British and German steamers dress for dinner.

The Fees vary according to circumstances. They are of course higher if the passenger has been ill and has required much attention. The chief xxvsteward or stewardess usually expects at least 1 fr. per day, and the other attendants receive fees proportioned to the services rendered.

Medical Attendance and medicines, in case of illness, are nominally free, but a reasonable fee is usually paid. Baths in the larger steamboats are free, fixed hours being allotted to passengers on application. Passengers may bring their own Deck Chairs or hire them from the chief steward.

IV. Intercourse with Orientals.

The objects and pleasures of travel are so unintelligible to most Orientals that they are apt to regard the European traveller as a lunatic, or at all events as a Crœsus, and therefore to be exploited on every possible occasion. Hence their constant demands for ‘bakshîsh’ (‘a gift’). To check this demoralizing cupidity the traveller should never give bakshish except for services rendered, unless occasionally to aged or crippled beggars.

Small fees are, however, not unreasonably expected by drivers, guides, donkey-boys, and others, over and above their stipulated hire. Excursionists should therefore always be well provided with small change. If no previous bargain has been made the charges and fees stated in the Handbook are usually ample.

While the traveller should be both cautious and firm in his dealings with the natives, he should avoid being too exacting or suspicious. Many of those he meets with are like mere children and often show much kindliness of disposition. In most cases their attempts at extortion are comparatively trifling; but if serious, the matter may be referred to the police or to the traveller’s consul.

On the other hand exaggerated professions of friendship should be distrusted, loyalty towards strangers being still rarer in the East than elsewhere. The natives are apt to make common cause against European visitors. While their religion usually requires them to address each other as ‘yâ akhûya’ (my brother), their brotherhood does not extend to outsiders.

As the Orientals are often remarkably dignified and punctilious in their bearing, the traveller should show corresponding respect and consideration for their customs and prejudices. He should never, for example, photograph a Mohammedan without his leave, nor look too curiously at the veiled women, nor don Oriental costume. Sacred places, such as mosques, chapels, and religious houses and their schools, must not be entered without removing one’s shoes or putting on slippers, lest the carpets and mats on which prayer is offered be polluted. Korans must never be touched; and when prayers are being recited, strangers must keep carefully aloof. In every part of the Orient the traveller meets with ‘saints’ (often imbecile or insane), who go about in fantastic rags and sometimes stark naked. Needless to say he will give them a wide berth.

xxviThe traveller may least obtrusively observe the various phases of Oriental life by visiting the native quarters of the towns, the bazaars and markets, and the popular festivals and recreations of the Moslems. Story-tellers at the native cafés (reminiscent of the Arabian Nights), jugglers, wrestlers, snake-charmers, barbers’ shops, and native schools are all objects of interest. In Turkey and in Egypt the popular theatres with their shadow-scenes (kara göz) are curious. Ladies may sometimes, by special introduction, obtain admission to a private dwelling-house and get a glimpse of the manners and customs of Oriental women. On Fridays they may see the Moslem women raising their veils in the cemeteries (comp. p. 220).

Gentlemen, when visiting an Oriental, knock at the door with an iron ring. From within is asked the question ‘mîn’ (who is there)? On being admitted, after the ladies who happen to be in the court have retired, he removes his shoes lest the costly carpets be sullied, and uncovers his head. The host approaches to meet him, one step or more according to the honour he desires to do his visitor. The latter salutes him in Oriental fashion by placing his right hand on his heart and then moving it up to his forehead. Questions as to health are first asked, but no allusion must be made to the ladies of the family, who are regarded as under a veil (sitr). Coffee is always offered. The servant with his left hand on his heart, hands round the little cups to the guests in order of their rank. The guest holds the cup in his hand till it is taken back by the servant. If the host wishes his guest to pay a long visit he delays his order for coffee, and the guest must not leave before then.

It is considered highly impolite to decline a visit, and each visit must of course be returned.

The Guides who proffer their services everywhere may generally be dispensed with, except by novices or by travellers pressed for time. Most of those at Constantinople and in Asia Minor are native Jews, who speak a little English, Italian, French, or German. All, as a rule, are ignorant and uneducated, and their ‘explanations’ of antiquities or works of art are worthless. When, as sometimes happens, they assume a patronizing or a familiar manner, they should be promptly checked and kept in their proper place. If a purchase has to be made, or a carriage or horse to be hired, the aid of a guide should be declined, as the sum demanded is then considerably raised, and part of it given to the guide as commission. On short excursions the guide usually walks, and it is quite unnecessary to provide him with a mount.

In the large towns the guides and commissionaires are sometimes in the pay of gambling-rooms or low places of entertainment. Against such, especially at night, the traveller should be on his guard.

Geographical Sketch by the late Prof. Theobald Fischer.

The shores of the Mediterranean, formerly visited in part only and imperfectly known, now most deservedly attract, throughout their whole extent, an ever increasing number of travellers and explorers. No part of the earth’s surface can offer so marvellous an intellectual feast. Land where he may, the traveller is almost invariably struck with the beauty of the scenery, the richness of the vegetation, and the wealth of historical memories. For three thousand years the Mediterranean was the theatre of all history, the cradle of all culture, to which the whole of humanity more or less directly owes its modern civilization. It was here for the first time that the nearness of the opposite coasts and the numerous island stepping-stones, coupled with winds blowing gently for months at a time, deprived the sea of its terrors and gave birth to a hardy race of mariners. The stagnation of the continental peoples was thus powerfully stirred and their ignorance gradually dispelled. It was first in Egypt, and then above all in Greece and in Italy, that those mighty intellectual weapons were forged which were to conquer the whole earth, while from Palestine came the mightiest of all religious and moral influences. The Mediterranean was the school of almost all the mediæval geographers and navigators, such as Toscanelli, Columbus, Vespucci, the Gabotti (the ‘Cabots’ employed by Henry VII.), and others, who added a New World to the old, and who brought Europe into touch with the great Asiatic cradles of culture. The Italians were the first to educate the Spanish, Portuguese, French, and even English mariners, and to introduce them to that Ocean which was to become the world’s commercial and intellectual highway.

The ancient Romans were fully aware, from a very early period, that they could maintain their empire on land only by securing their supremacy at sea also. Favoured by the central situation of Italy, they gradually subjected the whole of the Mediterranean lands to their sway, thus imparting to them a certain social and political unity. The name of ‘sea in the middle of the land’, though of late-Roman origin, still suggests the idea that both sea and land belonged to Rome. But this unity was afterwards destroyed by the repeated incursions of Germanic tribes from the north, followed by Arabs and Turks from the south and east. Owing to the discovery of the great ocean highways the Mediterranean was almost entirely neglected in the 16–19th centuries, but since the opening of the Suez Canal in 1869 it has become one of the world’s most important xxviiiarteries of traffic. The establishment of the French in Algeria (1830) and Tunisia (1881) and that of the British in Egypt (1884) have still more effectually reunited Europe and Africa and promoted the progress of civilization and commerce. With Asia also Europe has been brought into closer touch since the Crimean war of 1854–6, when the Black Sea was opened up, and new avenues to the Orient were thus rendered available. While nominally belonging to three different quarters of the globe, the Mediterranean with its shores, being bounded on the north by a long wall of high mountains and on the south by a vast and even more impenetrable expanse of desert, possesses quite a unique individuality of its own.

Geologically considered the Mediterranean forms part of an immense depression girdling the whole of the earth’s crust and separating the northern from the southern parts. This depression probably existed during the earlier geological periods, but in its depths has not yet assumed a settled character, as is evidenced by frequent earthquakes, mostly tectonic, and by continuous volcanic activity. This great depression is believed by geologists to have extended in the mesozoic period into Central Asia, far beyond the limits of the present Mediterranean, forming an immense sea to which the name of Tethys has been given. In its depths were deposited those strata, chiefly calcareous and argillaceous, which were afterwards raised and converted into dry land by means of the centripetal motion of the earlier masses of rock and by lateral pressure. In proof of this it may be noted that some two-thirds of Italy and four-fifths of Sicily consist of subaqueous formations of the tertiary or even a later period.

In the midst of this vast ‘Eurasian’ (European-Asiatic) region of folded rock formation, some 930 miles in length, bounded on the north by the solid primæval rocks of the continent of Europe, and on the south by the great plateau of the desert, lies the Chief Basin of the Mediterranean, embracing the Adriatic and the Greek Archipelago, where the highly indented coast and the numerous islands and peninsulas display a most striking variety of picturesque scenery. On the other hand the smaller part of the sea, lying to the south of a line drawn from the Lesser Syrtis, past the south coasts of Crete and Cyprus, to North Syria, has been formed by encroachment on the plateau of the desert (p. xxxiii), and is almost entirely destitute of attraction. In the geological history of the Mediterranean it is important to note also that three great rock-masses of the earliest periods still survive. These are the Iberian mass to the west, once probably connected with the kindred rocks of the Atlas in Morocco; then the Tyrrhenian mass, in the centre, and the Rumelian to the east. These three belong to the archæan and palæozoic periods. Once towering to Alpine peaks, they were gradually undermined by the action of the waves and by the subsidence xxixof the land. Their bases were thus partly covered with their débris, built up in new formations. By later movements of the earth’s crust, however, these shapeless primæval masses were again broken up, and by the pressure and counter-pressure of the fragments were piled up anew into smaller mountain-ranges of considerable height. Thus from the Iberian primæval rock sprang up, in the Castilian range (Sierra de Gredos), peaks to a height of nearly 9000 feet; in the Rhodope of Rumelia rise similar peaks to nearly 10,000 feet high; and even amid the ruins of the Tyrrhenis (p. xxxi) still towers the granitic Monte Cinto in Corsica to a height of 8900 feet.

Around these great primæval masses, deeply rooted in the earth’s crust, were gradually built up the recent folded mountains, out of materials forced aside and upwards by the débris of earlier rock as it sank into the sea. Thus on the Iberian Pedestal, from the north side, out of the depths of the great Biscay abyss, arose the Pyrenaean-Cantabrian Folded Chain (culminating in the Aneto or Maladetta, 11,168 ft.), the fan-like structure of which has been due to lateral pressure coming from the Ebro depression also. By similar pressure from the south side the Andalusian Folded Mountains were piled up against the Iberian nucleus (Meseta Mts.), and, though only 23 miles distant from the Mediterranean, they tower in the Mulhacén of the Sierra Nevada to a height of 11,424 feet, the greatest altitude in Europe apart from the Alps. As the Pyrenees are fringed on the east, on the frontier of Spain and France (near Port Vendres), with a deeply indented coast, so too the Andalusian range is strongly marked by transverse fissures, the eastmost of which have severed the Balearic Islands from the mainland. Still more striking is the great westmost fissure or cleavage, where the girdle of mountains takes a sharp turn from west to east, where the action of tides and waves has hollowed out the Straits of Gibraltar, and has further widened them within the historic period. The Mediterranean is here separated from the Atlantic by a submarine bar or threshold, at a depth averaging only 650 feet, extending from Cape Trafalgar to Cape Spartel, a distance of 27½ miles, and forming the boundary between the inner Alboran basin or depression and the outer or Andalusian. Thus, on north and south alike the Iberian central bed-rock is bordered with lofty mountains, whose seaboard almost everywhere repels human traffic, and seems barred against Europe by the Pyrenees and against Africa by the mountains of Andalusia. On the east side, however, between the Pyrenees and Cabo de la Nao (p. 112), the original rock-nucleus slopes gradually down to the Mediterranean. Still more important is the western slope down to the Atlantic, whose waves have penetrated into the lower estuaries of primæval rock on the coast, thus forming a number of excellent harbours, such as in particular that of Lisbon at the mouth of the xxxTagus. Towards the Atlantic descend also the plains of Lower Andalusia, the so-called Guadalquivir Basin, which lies between the Iberian central pedestal and the Andalusian sedimentary and contorted formations. In this basin lie Spain’s chief seaports for traffic with Africa and America, the island-harbour of Cadiz, the estuary-harbour of Huelva, the starting-point of Columbus, and the river-harbour of Seville, accessible to large vessels at high-tide.

In North-Western Africa the Andalusian contorted formation is continued by the Rîf Mts. of Morocco (p. 93) and by the Tell Atlas (p. 169), extending to the south and then turning eastwards. These ranges are characterized by deep fissures, formed by prehistoric volcanic action and descending abruptly to the Mediterranean. The whole northern coast of Morocco, Algeria, and Tunisia, apart from numerous wave-worn beaches, is completely rock-bound, forbidding all approach. Even the artificial harbours like that of Algiers are maintained with difficulty. At the east end of this long stretch of coast comes at last the welcome haven offered by the Gulf of Tunis which runs inland at the mouth of the depression between the Tell Atlas and the Sahara Atlas (p. 320), and on which the Medjerda and other streams and several important roads converge. Here, as in Lower Andalusia, a great avenue to the interior was thus opened up. This favoured spot therefore became a great focus of traffic, and as it lay on the Straits of Pantelleria (p. 396) it was also of great political importance. The ancient Utica (p. 353) was succeeded by the ‘new city’ of Carthage (p. 344), the predecessors of the modern Tunis. From this base the Carthaginians, the Vandals, and the Moors ruled Sicily and Sardinia. With such a base as the admirable naval harbour of Bizerta, lately constructed by the French, they in turn may perhaps some day become masters of the Mediterranean.

The Straits of Pantellería, leading from the western to the eastern basin of the Mediterranean and separating the Atlas from the Apennines, have been formed, like those of Gibraltar and the narrow side-portal of Messina, by transverse cleavage. Owing to the subsidence of the flat offshoots of the Apennines and to the erosive action of the waves the straits have been gradually widened to about 90 miles. The Maltese Islands are fragments, now broken up by fissures, of what was once a tableland, but they too are being rapidly washed away by the action of the surf. On the other hand the island of Pantellería, which has given its name to the straits, rising to a height of 2743 ft. from the verge of the central abyss and 3900 ft. in depth, is of volcanic origin. These transverse fissures are indeed generally the scenes of volcanic action, and they are usually situated at points where the mountains of recent contorted formation take a sudden bend (as is notably the case in the lower valley of the Danube).

xxxiItaly forms an immense bridge across the trough of the Mediterranean, extending to Cape Bon in Tunisia. Like a lofty embankment, rising over 18,000 ft. from the bottom of the sea, Calabria, culminating in the Aspromonte (6424 ft. above sea-level), separates the Tyrrhenian Sea (12,000 ft. deep, though of recent formation) from the Ionian Sea. The latter is the deepest basin in the Mediterranean, attaining a depth of 14,500 feet. The Apennines, deviating in their southern course from the usual ‘Eurasian’ direction, were probably influenced by the primæval Tyrrhenis. This ancient nucleus of the Italian continent has been broken up by movements of the earth’s crust which began in the mesozoic period, were still more marked in the later tertiary period, and continue to this day. Some of the solid blocks, as in Tuscany, Calabria, and Sicily (the Monti Peloritani near Messina), have been incorporated in the later rock structure of the Apennines; others again rise as isolated masses from the abysses of the Tyrrhenian Sea, such as Corsica, Sardinia, and Elba. The lines of cleavage, especially between Cosenza and Palermo, were marked by great volcanic activity. In a curve, parallel with the abrupt ramparts of Calabria and Sicily, rise the volcanoes of the Lipari Islands (Stromboli) and Ustica in succession. To the north the series is continued by Vesuvius, the Epomeo, and the Ponza Islands near Naples, and by the Alban Mts. near Rome. All these lie on the inner declivity of the Apennines. To the south the series is continued by Mt. Ætna in Sicily, lying outside of the Apennines. In the quaternary period the new Apennine formations underwent an upheaval which imparted to the range its present orographical unity. The result was that the straits which once intersected Southern Italy, connecting the Tyrrhenian with the Ionian basin, were filled up, with the exception of those of Messina, while these last were narrowed to 2 miles and shoaled at the north end, where they are only 335 ft. deep. The intensity of the upheaval is evidenced by the fact that quaternary deposits cover the terraces of the Aspromonte in Calabria to a height of 3900 feet above the sea-level. That these movements of the earth’s crust still continue is proved by the variations of level in the Bay of Naples observed within historic times. The most striking instance of this is the great subsidence in the island of Capri which has taken place within the Christian era. In the Blue Grotto there we find remains of a flight of steps of the time of Tiberius, descending to the water, but the lowest step is now 19 feet below the surface.

Italy opens towards the west. On the west side lie its picturesque bays and islands, as well as most of its great centres of culture, Rome and Florence, Genoa and Naples, besides many others. But the east side also is important owing to its close connection with the south-eastern basin of the Mediterranean. The chief outlets xxxiiin this direction are the lagoon-harbour of Venice, as great a portal of continental commerce in the middle ages as Genoa is at the present day, and the excellent harbours of Brindisi, Taranto, Messina, and Syracuse. Were geographical advantages alone decisive, Italy might again become mistress of the Mediterranean. Ethnographically also she is highly favoured. Her population, densest on the coasts, is about one-third of the scattered and heterogeneous hundred million inhabitants of the whole of the Mediterranean lands.

Almost all along the coast of the north-western basin of the Mediterranean the recent stratified and contorted headlands abut most picturesquely on the sea. On the north-west only, on each side of the Pyrenees, the basin is bounded by a coast of the primæval bed-rock formation, and is easily accessible from the Iberian mountains by the valleys of the Ebro, Jucar, and other rivers. Still more important are the avenues afforded by the Aquitanian Plains and the Rhone Valley. Hence it was that from a very early period the streams of Roman culture flowed through Marseilles and Narbonne to western and central Europe. But these, like the Straits of Gibraltar on the west, the Carso or Karst near Trieste on the north, and the Bosporus on the east, afford inlets also for the cold winds which sometimes pour into the warm mountain-girdled basin of the Mediterranean and force back the zone of southern vegetation (p. xxxv).

The southern margin of the north-western basin of the Mediterranean lies in the same latitude (36°) as the northern margin of the south-eastern basin (Cape Tænaron, on the south coast of Asia Minor). This less favoured south-eastern basin sends two great branches towards central Europe, the Adriatic and the Greek Archipelago, both of which open out in the direction of the Suez Canal and the Red Sea. From these branches run important roads leading to the heart of Europe, in particular those from Venice and Trieste into Austria, and that from Saloniki to Belgrade and up the Danube. This last, as also the road from Belgrade to Sofia, Adrianople, and Constantinople, traverses the Rumelian Primary Formation, to which the greater part of the south-eastern European peninsula belongs (Thrace and Macedonia, extending into Servia). To the same period probably once belonged also the north-western part of Asia Minor and Ægaeis, of which last the only surviving relics are the islands of the Cyclades. Here, too, over the primæval bed-rock, recent folded mountains have been gradually built up. The Balkan is one of these ranges. Another is the Illyrian-Greek Range, running in a different direction, which with its broad girdle gives the peninsula its southern trend, while shutting it off from the Adriatic and barring direct access to the north-west. As the Balearic Islands belong to the Andalusian stratified formation, and as Sicily and its adjoining islands form part of the Apennines, so the western stratified girdle of the south-eastern European peninsula xxxiiicrumbled, even within the historic period, into peninsulas and islands, formed chiefly by very recent subsidence. Thus arose Greece, a hill-country with an extensive seaboard, a new and unique region which was one day to reign supreme in the intellectual world. It is probable that the Greek range of hills was once prolonged eastwards, as appears to be indicated by the lie of the Cretan mountains, and that these in their turn were connected with the similarly stratified Taurus Mountains in Asia Minor. Just as the south-eastern peninsula of Europe, with Asia Minor, thus formed the great stepping-stones of traffic which brought the ancient culture of Europe into contact with that of Mesopotamia and Syria, so when the railway from Constantinople to Bagdad is completed a great future may yet be in store for the Orient.

The Eastern Mediterranean, the smaller south-eastern basin to the south of Malta, Crete, and Cyprus (p. xxviii), lies within the region of the great primæval desert-plateau of northern Africa (apart from the Atlas regions), of Arabia, and Syria, and has been formed by the subsidence of part of that plateau. In contrast to the richly varied shores of the western and central basins its coasts, as may even be seen from a glance at the map, are monotonous. Their formation, whether perpendicular or horizontal, is featureless, and there is an almost entire lack of islands, harbours, and rivers. The Nile greatly relieves this monotony, but its sources lie within tropical regions far beyond the limits of the desert. Alexandria possesses almost the only natural harbour on this flat coast of early formation. The old-world characteristics of the land, its inhabitants, and their language at once strike the traveller on landing at Tripoli. Yet even this part of the Mediterranean, especially the Levant Basin, beyond the passage between Crete and Barca, contains recent formations. The hill-region of Barca, the ancient Cyrenaica (p. 413), averaging 1600 feet in height, is composed of miocene marine strata. The bay now filled up by the Nile delta, and at one time connected with the Red Sea, is of even later origin, dating perhaps from the pluvial or glacial era. That the mouth of the Nile once lay much farther to the north and watered Palestine is evidenced by the identity of its fauna with that of the Jordan and the Lake of Tiberias (crocodiles, for instance, occurring in the Nahr ez-Zerkâ, to the south of Mt. Carmel; p. 468). Movements of the earth’s crust also account for the peculiar conformation of that part of the great desert-plateau which we call Syria. It is only differentiated from the monotonous North Arabian desert by the great Syrian Valley or trough, running from north to south, and ending at the Gulf of Akaba in the Erythræan depression (the Red Sea), which dates from about the same epoch. On each side of this long narrow furrow, descending to a depth of some 2500 feet below the sea-level, strips of land have been forced upwards so as to form lofty xxxivmountains. These, in spite of subsidences and erosion, still attain a height of about 10,000 feet in the twin-giants of Lebanon and Anti-Lebanon in Central Syria. It is to this highly picturesque mountain-wall, which condenses the vapours from the sea and remains snow-clad till late in summer, that the Syrian seaboard, 10–16 miles in breadth, owes its luxuriant subtropical vegetation, and Palestine its cultivability as far as its southern borders. Syria, which may be regarded geographically and anthropologically as a kind of peninsula of the Mediterranean, thus forms a bridge between north and south, connecting Asia Minor and Mesopotamia with Arabia and Egypt, and bounded by the sea on the west and by the desert, only some 60 miles distant, on the east.

The Black Sea, which from the north-eastern angle of the Archipelago runs far into the interior of the Old World, lies outside of the Mediterranean regions. Like the inland Caspian Sea it is a relic of the tertiary Sarmatic Sea, which was afterwards broken up into lakes of brackish water. It was not till the diluvial epoch that those subsidences which created the Sea of Marmora brought the Black Sea also into connection with the Mediterranean. Through the Sea of Marmora there must once have flowed a great river, into whose valley the sea afterwards penetrated from the south, forming the Dardanelles and the Bosporus of the present day. Travellers on the Rhine will observe an interesting resemblance between these straits and the Rhine Valley between Bingen and Coblenz. Like these straits the Black Sea also is a great trough hollowed out between lofty stratified mountains. On three sides its bold rocky coasts are inhospitable and forbidding. On the north it is bounded by the ‘steppe’, a plateau of primitive formation, no less monotonous than the desert-plateau on the south side of the Mediterranean, yet cultivable owing to its more northern situation. At two places on this side, through gaps in the mountain rampart, the sea has overflowed the plateau, forming the shallow Gulf of Odessa and Sea of Azov. Two great routes of traffic were thus opened up from the Black Sea into the heart of Eastern Europe and even of Central Asia, enriching the world’s commerce with the products of these regions, and at the same time forming the portal through which Byzantine culture and Greek Christianity found their way into Russia. Through these passages great masses of cold northern air are poured into the Black Sea; but between them the Peninsula of the Crimea, a relic of the broken-down mountain-girdle, still stands boldly forth, giving shelter to an almost Mediterranean vegetation on its southern coast. On that coast lies the admirable harbour of Sebastopol. Nearer the Sea of Azov once lay the flourishing Greek colonies of Pantikapaeon and Phanagoria, and in the middle ages the Genoese settlements of Sudak (Kertch) and Kaffa (Theodosia or Feodossiya). As the corn of Southern xxxvRussia is now the chief export from Odessa to London and Antwerp, so, from the 14th century onwards, quantities of Russian caviare were brought by Italian merchants from Kaffa to Bruges, which was then one of the world’s greatest markets.

The Climate of the Mediterranean is very equable. In every age northerners have been attracted by the mildness of the winters, when the occasional storms and heavy rains are of short duration and are soon succeeded by bright sunshine. The heat of summer is tempered everywhere, especially on the more southern coasts, by refreshing sea-breezes. The farther south one goes, the longer the dry season lasts. At Tripoli, for example, it lasts for seven months and at Alexandria for ten. The subtropical maximum air-pressure over the eastern Atlantic, by which rainfall and wind-movements are determined, is usually continued in winter past the southern limit of the Mediterranean (comp. p. 29), thus bringing the whole of that sea within the zone of the changeable and rainy winds of Central Europe. In summer the pressure lies farther to the north, producing in most parts of the Mediterranean steady northerly currents of air. The climate is tempered also by the warmth of the sea itself. The bar at the west entrance of the Straits of Gibraltar (p. xxix) keeps out the cold water of the deep Atlantic, but allows the influx of the warmer surface-water to compensate for what the Mediterranean loses by evaporation. This loss would otherwise amount to a depth of 10–15 ft. per annum. The influx of water from the Atlantic causes a current to flow along the North African coast from west to east, but its thermal effects are soon lost. In summer the surface of the Mediterranean is heated by the sun up to 75–82° Fahr.; but the temperature diminishes rapidly down to a depth of about 1000 feet, where it reaches a uniform minimum corresponding with the surface temperature of February, the coolest month in the year. This in the north-western basin is 55° Fahr. only, and in the south-eastern 56¼°, but it suffices to temper the cold winds of winter, while additional warmth is brought from time to time by the hot sirocco from the interior of Africa (comp. p. 321). It may be stated generally that the winter temperature on the Mediterranean averages 14° Fahr. above that of almost all other regions in the same latitude. The warmest places are of course those on the coasts facing the south and sheltered from the north, while the average temperature rises gradually from south-east to north-west.

The Vegetation is rich and varied. Evergreens abound, being better able to stand the long droughts than deciduous trees and shrubs. Among the forest-trees in the warmer regions the commonest are pines, including stone-pines, and oaks of the evergreen and other varieties. The underwood (macchia, maquis, or garrigue, Grk. phrýgana) is composed of mastic-bushes (Pistacia xxxvilentiscus), myrtles, arbutus-trees (Arbutus unĕdo), broom, tree-like heaths (Erica arborea and scoparia), resinous and aromatic cistus-shrubs with large blossoms resembling wild roses, and climbing-plants of many varieties. Most prominent among trees in the cultivated lands is the silver-grey olive, which, as well as the vine and the fig-tree, has thriven here from the earliest times and is the most characteristic feature in every Mediterranean landscape. Most of the other fruit-trees also have been known here since remote antiquity. The fruit of the date-palm attains perfection in the oases of North Africa only (comp. p. 171), but the tree bears fruit on the Spanish coast, and is very popular as an ornamental tree on the French and Italian Riviera and in other sheltered situations. Lemons were introduced by the Arabs, and oranges were brought from southern China by the Portuguese about the middle of the 16th century. Many other foreign trees and plants have been introduced since then. Aloes and opuntias, which now grow wild and are often regarded as characteristic of the Mediterranean, were introduced from America. In the beautiful and luxuriant gardens, especially in Italy, on the French Riviera, and in Algeria, the flora of almost every quarter of the globe is represented.

No less varied and interesting are the Inhabitants of the Mediterranean lands, who belong to three distinct continents, and who differ widely in race and language, in religion and culture. In remote mountain-regions there still exist peoples, like the Basques and the Albanians, who belong to the oldest races in Europe. In the south and the east dwell Arabs and Turks, comparatively recent immigrants from the steppes of Asia. On one side, as in Southern France, is witnessed the height of civilization; on the other, as in Albania and many parts of Northern Africa, the population is sunk in the depths of ignorance. The dwellers in the west profess the Roman Catholic faith, those in the east belong to the Greek Catholic church, while they differ materially in culture also. Christianity again is antagonistic to Islam, which prevails in Turkey, Asia Minor, Syria, and North Africa. The inhabitants of the Atlas regions, of Tripolitania, and of Barca are Berbers (p. 94), who are neither Arabs nor Turks, but are more akin to the Europeans. The Osman Turks of the Balkan Peninsula and Asia Minor have been so blended with Mediterranean races that they now retain little of their original Mongolian character. Entirely distinct again from the Arabs are the Aramaic Syrians, although they speak Arabic, and so too are the Fellahin of Egypt. Most mixed perhaps of all is the blood of the Modern Greeks.

1. From England viâ Oporto and Lisbon to Gibraltar or Tangier (Marseilles and Genoa).

1. To Gibraltar Direct. The chief Steamboat Lines (offices, comp. pp. xviii-xx) are the Peninsular & Oriental Co., once weekly from London to Gibraltar, Marseilles, Port Said, etc.; the Orient Royal Line, fortnightly from London to Gibraltar, Marseilles, Naples, Port Said, etc.; the North German Lloyd, fortnightly from Southampton to Gibraltar, Algiers, Genoa, Naples, Port Said, etc.; the Anchor Line almost weekly from Liverpool or Glasgow for Gibraltar, Marseilles, Genoa, Leghorn, Naples, Palermo, Port Said, etc.; fares to Gibraltar in all these from 12l. 2s. downwards. Less expensive are the Royal Mail Steam Packet Co.’s steamers, fortnightly from London; and from Liverpool, the Moss Line fortnightly and the Papayanni Line occasionally; fares in all these range from 6l. to 8l.

2. Coasting Steamers. Hall Line, weekly from London to Lisbon, Gibraltar, Málaga, and Cadiz; the Pacific Line, fortnightly from Liverpool to La Rochelle-Pallice (for Bordeaux), Corunna, Vigo, Leixões (for Oporto), Lisbon, and St. Vincent (Cape Verde), and thence to S. America (passengers for the Mediterranean requiring of course to tranship at Lisbon or St. Vincent); the Nederland Royal Mail Steamers, fortnightly from Southampton for the Mediterranean and Batavia, touch at Lisbon, and so also those of the Rotterdam Lloyd, fortnightly from Southampton, for Tangier, the Mediterranean, and Batavia; Yeoward Bros. Line, weekly from Liverpool to Lisbon; Booth Line, thrice monthly from Liverpool to Havre, Vigo, Leixões (for Oporto), etc.; Ellerman Line, weekly from Liverpool to Lisbon and Oporto; the steamers of the German East African Line, once every three weeks from Southampton, call at Lisbon, Tangier, Marseilles, and Naples, on their way to Port Said; the Atlantic liners of the Hamburg-American and Hamburg & South American Cos., calling several times monthly at Southampton, also touch occasionally at Lisbon; Royal Holland Lloyd, monthly from Dover to Boulogne, Corunna, Vigo, Lisbon, etc.; the vessels of the Compañía Trasatlántica, monthly from Liverpool, call at Corunna, Vigo, Lisbon, Cadiz, Cartagena, Valencia, Barcelona, and Genoa, on their voyages to Colombo and Manila.

3. Excursion Steamers. Many of the above companies and others besides organize Mediterranean cruises and circular tours at very reasonable fares, whereby everything is made easy and comfortable; but the 2more enterprising and independent traveller will greatly prefer to piece his tour together for himself, combining the various routes to suit his own convenience, and often lingering for days in profoundly impressive historic places or amid glorious scenery, where the hurriedly conducted tourist can spend a few hours only. Among the excursion steamers may be mentioned the ‘Vectis’ of the Peninsular & Oriental Co., which offers a trip of 10 days from London to Lisbon, Gibraltar, Tangier, Málaga, and Marseilles for 10–15 guineas, and another, of 21 days, from Marseilles to Palermo, Constantinople, the Piræus, Naples, and Marseilles, for 21–40 gs. Similar cruises are offered by the Cunard Line, starting from Liverpool for the Mediterranean and Adriatic, the Orient Royal Line from London (20 days; fares from 18 gs.), and by ‘Continental Travel’ (5 Endsleigh Gardens, London), some of the last-named (either from Southampton or from Marseilles) extending to Egypt and the Holy Land, and lasting from 13 to 34 days (fares 10–26 gs.).—The voyage from London to Lisbon (about 1170 M.) usually takes 3½ days, and thence to Gibraltar (about 350 M.) one day more; but some of the steamers take longer, while much of course depends on the number of ports called at and on the length of stay made at each. For details as to the sailings, which, as well as fares, are liable to frequent alteration, application should be made to the various companies, or to Messrs. Thos. Cook & Son (Ludgate Circus, London, E.C.) or other tourist-agencies.

To Gibraltar Direct. As indicated at p. 1, most of the great steamers bound for Port Said, India, Australia, and other distant parts steer for Gibraltar direct.

Of the Coasting Steamers to Gibraltar some touch at Lisbon only, others at Leixões (or Oporto) and Lisbon, and others again at various additional stations. All the important stations are here mentioned in their order.

The Hamburg-American steamers call at Boulogne (see Baedeker’s N. France) to take up passengers for Lisbon and America. Most of the vessels pass the Cap de la Hague, a little to the N.W. of Cherbourg, and the Channel Islands, which belong to Great Britain. The first of these is Alderney (Fr. Aurigny); next comes the islet of Burhou; beyond it, behind the dangerous rocks called the Casquets, marked by a triple flashing light, lies Guernsey (‘green island’), and farther away, to the left, is Jersey. The coast of Brittany or Bretagne is visible in clear weather only.

All the steamers leave the English Channel near Ushant (Ouessant; lighthouse), an island near the coast of Brittany, and steer to the S.S.W. across the Bay of Biscay (Viscaya), where, even in fine weather, the heavy swell of the open Atlantic is distinctly felt. The steamers of the Pacific Line and of the Rotterdam Lloyd touch at La Pallice, 3 M. from La Rochelle. From La Rochelle, an interesting historic town, by railway to (145 M.) Bordeaux, see Baedeker’s Southern France. The Bay of Biscay is bounded on the S. by the N. coast of Spain, with which the W. coast of France forms a right angle. In this angle, far to the E. of the steamer’s course, lie Bayonne and the famous health resort of Biarritz. To the S.W. of the latter is (8 M.) St. Jean de Luz, and 8 M. farther is Hendaye, on the Spanish frontier (see Baedeker’s S. France).

3In Spain, 12 M. to the W. of the frontier, is situated San Sebastián, a strikingly picturesque town and fashionable seaside resort; 71½ M. farther to the W. lies Bilbao, famed for its iron and steel, 74 M. beyond which is Santandér, with its important harbour. About 280 M. farther to the W. are the N.W. headlands of Spain which mark the S.W. end of the Bay of Biscay.

The steamers of the Pacific Line, the Compañía Trasatlántica, and some others next call at Corunna, Span. La Coruña, a picturesque and important seaport famed in history, and the chief arsenal of N. Spain (see Baedeker’s Spain and Portugal; debarkation or embarkation 1 peseta). Time permitting, passengers may spend an hour or two on shore in walking through the new town (Pescadería) and the loftily situated old town (Ciudad Vieja), and in ascending to the Torre de Hércules (185 ft.; lighthouse), about 1 M. to the N. of the town, for the sake of the splendid view it affords. Some 35 M. to the W. of Corunna lie the small Sisargas Islands, beyond which all the vessels steer to the S., past Cabo Villano (lighthouse), Cabo Toriñana (lighthouse), and Cape Finisterre. To the E., in clear weather, we may descry the long outlines of the Galician mountain-range (‘sierra’). Beyond Cape Finisterre we pass a number of far-penetrating inlets (rias) which abound on the W. coast of Galicia. Many steamers touch also at Vigo, a seaport and sea-bathing place most picturesquely situated on the Ria de Vigo, the southmost inlet of Galicia, which runs 19 M. inland (debarkation or embarkation 1 peseta). Fine view near the lofty Castillo del Castro, to the S. of the town. Some eight or nine hours’ steaming carries us from Vigo, past the mouth of the Minho, the boundary between Spain and Portugal, to—

Leixões (pron. layshŏengsh; Brit. vice-consul, T. Coverley), the first Portuguese port, lying at the mouth of the little river Leça and forming the outer harbour of Oporto. About 2½ M. farther to the S. is the mouth of the Douro, usually entered by the smaller steamers bound for (3½ M.) Oporto itself.

Passengers who wish to go ashore at Leixões are conveyed by motor-boat or rowing-boat (about 225 reis or 1s., and half as much more for luggage) to the custom-house. Visitors with heavy luggage require to take the train (Leça station, near the Alfándega or custom-house) to Oporto (Estacão da Boa Vista, in the N. of the town); others may take the electric tramway (120 rs.), running from Leixões through the villa-suburb of Leça da Palmeira and the watering-places of Mattosinhos and São João da Foz, and up the right bank of the Douro, to Oporto (about 5 M., in 1 hr.). It goes as far as the Praça de Dom Pedro; but those in haste will alight in the Rua do Infante Dom Henrique (comp. p. 4).

Oporto.—Hotels. *Hot. do Porto, Hôt. de Paris, Hôt. de Francfort, etc.—Café-Restaurant International, Praça de Dom Pedro 14; Café Suisse, same square, No. 122; Café Marques, in the Crystal Palace.

Cab 500 rs., or about 2s. 3d., per hour.

Consuls. British, H. Grant.—United States Consular Agent, W. Stüve.—English Church (St. James’s), in the Campo Pequeno, to the N. of the Crystal Palace.

4Oporto, or briefly Porto (‘harbour’) in Portuguese, is a busy commercial town of 172,400 inhab., the industrial capital of N. Portugal, and the place from which the famous wines of the upper valley of the Douro are chiefly exported. It lies 3½ M. from the sea, on the lofty right bank of the Douro, which has forced its passage here through the granite rock. The old town, with its quaint balconied houses, whose walls are often faced with coloured tiles, rises in terraces on the rocky slopes. The new town lies on a lofty plateau to the N., E., and W. of the old.

To the N. of the Rua do Infante Dom Henrique is the Exchange (Bolsa), with its showy hall in the Moorish style. To the E. of it stands the Monument of Prince Henry the Navigator (p. 5). Adjoining the exchange is the Gothic church of São Francisco (entrance on the W. side), containing elaborate gilt wood-carving of the 17–18th centuries. Near the E. end of the Rua do Infante Dom Henrique is the so-called English Factory House (Associação Britannica), an imposing building erected by an Englishman in 1785 and now used as a kind of club. The nearest tramway-car conveys us to the Praça de Dom Pedro, the business centre of the city, with an Equestrian Statue of Pedro IV. (p. 11) commemorating the granting of the constitution (1826). We ascend to the W. by the steep Calçada dos Clérigos to the church of Igreja dos Clérigos (427 ft.), the tower of which (246 ft.; ticket of admission 100 rs.) commands a panoramic view of the city, the river, and the coast. Adjoining the church on the W. is the Campo dos Martyres da Patria, with the beautiful grounds of the Jardim da Cordoaria. We next proceed by the electric tramway ‘Palacio’ to the Crystal Palace (adm. 20, 50 or 100 rs.) with its beautiful pleasure-grounds and superb view of the city, the river, and the sea. The same electric tramway, now entitled the ‘Praça de Dom Pedro’, returns viâ the Rua da Cedofeita to the Praça de Dom Pedro; we, however, change tramway-cars in the former and proceed by the tramway ‘Campanha’ viâ the Praça de Dom Pedro to the pretty Jardim de São Lázaro. From the S.W. angle of the garden the Rua das Fontainhas descends to the Passeio das Fontainhas with a view of the river, its S. bank, and both bridges. Following this promenade to the W. we reach the Largo da Policia with a fountain, where remains of the City Walls are to be seen. Hence the Rua de Saraiva de Carvalho leads us, before it descends in an abrupt curve to the left, into the vicinity of the Sé, or Cathedral, now almost entirely modernized. We may now traverse the upper roadway (toll 5 rs.; tramway-car if desired) of the magnificent Ponte de Dom Luiz Primeiro, spanning the Douro with a single iron arch of 564 ft. On the S. bank, on an eminence immediately to the left, lies the ruinous Augustine convent of Nossa Senhora da Serra do Pilar where Wellington effected his celebrated passage of the Douro against the French (1809). The view, especially from the dome of the church, is very fine. We make our way, at first by steps, then by a steep descent, to the lower roadway of the bridge. Returning to the N. bank of the Douro we follow the Rua Cima do Muro to the Praça da Ribeira which affords an insight into popular life and commands a striking retrospect of the Ponte de Dom Luiz. In the neighbourhood we may take the electric tramway ‘Leça’ which conveys us back to Leixões. In the reverse direction we regain the Praça de Dom Pedro.—Comp. Baedeker’s Spain and Portugal.

While the greater Ocean Steamers rarely sight the land, those bound for Lisbon skirt the flat Portuguese coast for some 150 M., from Oporto to Cabo Carvoeiro, steering past the Berlengas Islands (lighthouse), and then rounding the Serra de Cintra (p. 15), which ends in the Cabo da Roca (472 ft.), the westmost point of Europe, with its great lighthouse. Passing the Cabo Raso, we now steer due E. into the Bay of Cascaes, the ‘Riviera’ of Portugal, 5and enter the month of the Tagus (Tejo), where the lighthouses of Torre de São Julião and Torre de Bugio rise conspicuously. On the left we next observe the Torre de Belem and the extensive streets of Lisbon (see R. 2).

Leaving Lisbon, several of the great liners steer due W. across the Atlantic to America. Other vessels head to the S.W. for Madeira (p. 17), and others again due S., past the Cabo de Espichel, on their way to Gibraltar or Tangier. About 120 M. to the S. of Lisbon we are off *Cape St. Vincent (Cabo de São Vicente), the ancient Promontorium Sacrum. This huge rocky plateau, with its reddish-brown precipices rising sheer above the sea, presents an imposing appearance. Just beyond it are an old monastery and a lighthouse and then the Cabo Sagres. Between these capes we obtain a glimpse of the dreary and sunburnt interior of the country, with its few poor villages. Beyond the Cabo Sagres lies the little town of Sagres, founded by Henry the Navigator (1421) as headquarters for his voyages of exploration. Both before and after rounding these two capes we sometimes obtain a pleasant view of the Serra de Monchique (2963 ft.), and before leaving the coast of Algarve we may distinguish the little towns of Lagos and Albufeira and the Cabo de Santa Maria. Steering now due E., the smaller trading-vessels call at Huelva, a little beyond the Spanish frontier, noted as the shipping-port for the great Tharsis and Rio Tinto mines, and as the starting-point of Columbus (pp. 115, 64) for his voyage to America in 1492, while other vessels call at Cadiz (p. 58); all the larger steamers however proceed direct across the Bay of Cadiz to the S.E. to the Straits of Gibraltar, and either call at Gibraltar itself, or pass it on their eastward voyage without stopping; a certain number touch at Tangier (p. 98).

The *Straits of Gibraltar, anciently called Fretum Gaditanum or Herculeum (comp. Map, p. 49), from Gades (p. 58) or from the Pillars of Hercules (p. 54), date from the pliocene age, when the action of tides and waves forced a passage from the Atlantic into the great inland cavity of the Mediterranean. The straits are widest at the W. entrance, between Cape Trafalgar (p. 58) on the left, and Cape Spartel (p. 102) on the right. The narrowest part (8 M.) is between the Punta Canales (p. 6) and Cape Ciris (p. 123). The E. entrance, between Europa Point (p. 55) and the Punta Santa Catalina (p. 123), is 12½ M. in breadth. Between the ocean and the inland sea run strong currents, the upper and lighter, from W. to E., sometimes setting at the rate of 5 M. an hour, while the lower, being more strongly impregnated with salt and therefore heavier, flows in the opposite direction. These currents, coupled with the conflict of winds at the meeting of the waters, often cause serious trouble to sailing-vessels.

To the right, far to the S.E. as we steer into the straits, appears 6the lighthouse on Cape Spartel, to the E. of which opens the bay of Tangier (p. 98), bounded on the E. by Cape Malabata. To the left, on the treeless coast of Andalusia enlivened only by the numerous ancient watch-towers, lies the town of Tarifa, preceded by an isthmus ending in the Punta Marroquí, the southmost point of the mainland of Europe (36° N. lat.).

The steamers then pass the Punta Canales and Punta del Fraile, round the Punta Carnero, the southmost spur of the Sierra de los Gazules, and enter the broad Bay of Algeciras or Gibraltar, where they usually anchor in the open roads of Gibraltar (p. 52), to the N.W. of the government harbour.

From Gibraltar to Tangier and Mogador, see RR. 6 b and 14; to Genoa, see R. 15; to Naples, see R. 16; to Marseilles, see R. 17.

2. Lisbon.^[4]

Arrival by Sea. Steamers arriving from Europe (comp. R. 1) usually anchor in the Tagus (Tejo) near the custom-house (Alfándega; Pl. F, G, 5). Landing or embarking by boat (bote) ca. 500 rs., and 100–200 rs. for each trunk or package, including transport to the custom-house (bargaining necessary). Steamers from the South (Madeira and Brazil), cast anchor opposite the quarantine station (Posto Maritimo de Desinfecção; Pl. B, 5); passengers are landed in tenders (1600 rs.); for conveyance of luggage to the custom-house each piece 200 rs. As soiled linen is sometimes asked for, it should be packed in a separate bundle and given up in exchange for a metal token. A declaration has to be filled up at the custom-house (100 rs.); tobacco and unused articles only are dutiable. In the case of the larger liners the through-passengers (passageiros em transito) are conveyed without luggage to land, and thence back, by tender; the place and time of return should be ascertained. Special tenders are provided for the landing of travellers going no farther, and for their luggage. As a rule, fully half a day is spent in landing and other formalities prior to settling down in a hotel. Hotel-employés are not permitted to convey passengers from the steamers. As the custom-house is closed at sunset, passengers arriving by steamer in the evening must stay on board till next morning.

The Central Railway Station (Estação Central or Lisboa Rocio, Pl. F, 3; no restaurant), in the Rua Magalhães Lima, a little to the N.W. of the Rocio (p. 11), is the station for all the through-trains and expresses to Paris, Madrid, etc. Lisbon time is 37 min. behind Greenwich time, and 1 hr. 36 min. slower than mid-European.—Office of the International Sleeping Carriage Co. (Companhia Internacional dos Wagons-Lits dos Grandes Expressos Europeus) in the Avenida Palace Hotel (see below).

7Hotels (advisable to engage rooms beforehand). *Avenida Palace Hotel (Pl. a; F, 3), adjoining the Central Station, pens. from 3000 rs. upwards; *Hot. Bragança (Pl b; E, 5), Rua Victor Cordon, in a high site, R. from 1200 rs., B. 350, déj. 800, D. 1100 rs.—Hot. de Inglaterra (Pl. i; F, 3), Praça dos Restauradores 45, well spoken of; Hot. Central (Pl. c; E, 5), in the lower town, commercial, déj. 800, D. 1000, pens. from 2600 rs.; Hôt. de l’Europe, Rua do Carmo 16 (Pl. F, 4), pens. from 2000 rs.—Hôt. Durand (Pl. k; E, 4), Rua das Flores 71, an English family hotel in a quiet situation, pens. 2400–3000 rs.—Avenida Hotel (Pl. h; F, 2), Avenida da Liberdade 67, good second-class house.

Cafés-Restaurants. *Tavares, Rua do Mundo 37 (Pl. E, F, 3), D. 800 and 1000 rs.; Impérial, Rua Magalhães Lima 124, opposite the Avenida Palace Hotel, also superior, D. 700 rs.; Suisso, Largo de Camões 8, opposite the E. side of the Central Station.—Beer. Cervejaria Jansen, entr. near the Hot. Bragança (see above; side-entrance Rua do Alecrim 30); Cervejaria Trindade, Rua da Trindade 110.

Post and Telegraph Office (Correio e Telegrapho; Pl. F, 5) in the Praça do Commercio, corner of Rua do Arsenal, in which last is the entrance to the poste-restante office. Also numerous branch-offices (estações auxiliares). Postage of letters (cartas) for Portugal and Spain 20 rs.; post-cards (bilhete postal) 10 rs.; for abroad (para o estrangeiro) 50 and 20 rs. respectively; registration-fee (registado) 50 rs.

Cabs (Trens de Praça) in the principal squares, elegant vehicles with two horses for 2 or 4 pers., but the tariff is high. The hirer should ask the driver (cocheiro) for a ticket or token (senha). The tariff is called tabella. ‘Impedido’ means engaged.

The city boundary is the Estrada da Circumvallação (p. 9), and for the W. suburbs Algés (beyond Belem). After the first hour the time is reckoned by ¼ hours. If the cab is dismissed outside the town the driver is entitled to a return-fare. At night (1 a.m. till sunrise) the fares are doubled. Luggage up to 30 kilos (66 lbs.) free, up to 50 kilos (110 lbs.) 200 rs., over 50 kilos 400 rs.

Taximeter Cabs (Trens com Taximeter) are rather cheaper.—Motor Taximeters (Automovies da Praça), stand in the Rocio (Pl. F, 3, 4), comp. the tariff written in French.

Lifts and Cable Tramways (Ascensores or Elevadores), mostly every 3 min., from 8 a.m. to 1 a.m. The fare up is called subida, down descida, return ida e volta.

1. From the Rua da Santa Justa (Pl. F, 4; near the Rua Aurea) to the Largo do Carmo (Pl. F, 4). Fare up 20, down 10, return 20 rs.

2. From the Calçada da Gloria (Pl. F, 3; W. side of the Avenida da Liberdade) to the Alameda de São Pedro de Alcántara (Pl. E, F, 3), 20 rs.

3. From the Praça de Camões (Pl. E, 4) to São Bento (Pl. D, 3) and the Largo da Estrella (Pl. C, 2, 3), 50 rs.

4. From the Rua da Palma (near the Theatro Apollo; Pl. G, 3) to the Largo da Graça (Pl. H, 3, 4); up 10, down 20 rs.

5. From the Calçada da Lavra (Pl. F, 3) to the Travessa do Thorel (Pl. F, 2, 3), near the S. end of the Campo dos Martyres da Patria, 20 rs.

Tramways (Carris de Ferro) are to be preferred to cabs owing to the hilly nature of the town and the badly paved streets. The starting point of the tramway-lines important to the traveller is the Rocio (Pl. F, 3, 4); cars proceeding hence to the S. viâ the Rua Augusta return viâ the Rua Aurea. To the W. cars follow the narrow Rua do Arsenal to the Largo 8do Corpo Santo (Pl. E, 5), where the line forks into an outer line skirting the quay, and an inner line (comp. the Plan); on the latter the ‘Santo Amaro Pampueha’ car alone passes the museum (p. 14). On both lines the ‘Belem’, ‘Algés’, or ‘Dafundo’ cars proceed to Belem (p. 14).—The terminus of the route is indicated on the boards at either end of the cars. On the return-journey, or, in the case of circular tramways, in the reverse direction, cars have different name-boards (given below in brackets). Boards in the streets bearing the word ‘paragem’ indicate stopping-places (beckoning necessary).—Fare, within the first zone, 30 rs.; for every addit. zone 10 rs. extra.—The three following circular lines are of special importance.

1. ‘Rio de Janeiro’ Car [‘Rocio’]: Rocio-Avenida da Liberdade (Pl. F, E, 3–1; p. 11) - Rua Alexandre Herculano (Pl. E, 1) - Travessa São Mamede (Pl. E, 2) - Rua da Escola Polytechnica (Pl. E, 2) - Jardim Botanico (p. 11) - Praça do Rio de Janeiro (Pl. E, 2, 3) - Alameda de São Pedro de Alcántara (Pl. E, F, 3; p. 11) - Rua do Mundo (Pl. E, F, 3, 4) - Rua do Alecrim (Pl. E, 4, 5) - Rua do Arsenal (Pl. E, F, 5) - Rua Aurea (Pl. F, 5, 4) - Rocio. Fare all the way (Circulação completa) 50 rs.

2. ‘Rua Gomes Freire’ Car [‘Graça’]: Rocio - Rua Augusta (Pl. F, 4) - Rua da Conceição (Pl. F, 5) - Sé (Pl. G, 5; p. 13) - Largo do Contador Mór (Pl. G, 4; comp. p. 13) - São Vicente de Fora (Pl. H, 4; p. 13) - Rua da Graça (Pl. H, 3) - Largo dos Quatro Caminhos (Pl. H, 3), returning by the same route as far as the Rua da Conceição (see above), thence viâ Rua Aurea, Rocio, Rua da Palma, Rua de São Lazaro (Pl. G, 3, 2), Rua Gomes Freire (Pl. G, 2, 1), Rua Conde de Redondo (Pl. F, 1), and the Avenida (p. 11) to the Rocio. Fare 80 rs.

3. ‘Largo das Duas Egrejas’ Car [‘Estrella’]: Upper end of Rua Garrett (Pl. E, F, 4) - Rua do Alecrim (Pl. E, 4, 5) - Rua Vinte e Quatro de Julho (Pl. E, D, 5, 4) - Largo de Santos (Pl. C, 4) - Rua de São Domingos (Pl. C, 4, 3) - Rua de Buenos Ayres (Pl C, 3) - Largo da Estrella (Pl. C, 3, 2) - Rua Domingos Sequeira (Pl. C, 2) - Rua Ferreira Borges (Pl. C, 2, 1) - Rua do Campo de Ourique (Pl. C, 1) - Rua São João dos Bem Casados (Pl. C, D, 1) - Rua das Amoreiras (Pl. D, 1) - Largo do Rato (Pl. D, 1) - Rua da Escola Polytechnica (Pl. D, E, 2, 3) - Jardim Botanico (p. 11) - Alameda de São Pedro de Alcántara (p. 11) - Rua do Mundo (Pl. E, F, 3, 4) - Rua Garrett.

Steamers to and from London, Liverpool, Southampton, S. America, etc. (comp. pp. xviii-xx and R. 1). Also the Messageries Maritimes from Bordeaux to Lisbon; the Empreza Nacional de Navegação for Madeira, and the Empreza Insulana de Navegação for the Azores (comp. also R. 3). Agent for the Rotterdam Lloyd, German East African, Hamburg-American, and Hamburg & S. American Lines, E. George (p. 9); for the Compañía Trasatlántica, H. Burnay & Co.

Banks. London & Brazilian, Rua do Commercio 96; Crédit Franco-Portugais, Rua Augusta 61; Banco de Portugal, Rua Aurea (entr. Rua do Commercio 148); Weinstein & Co., Rua do Commercio 49 (1st floor).

Theatres (from end of Oct. to March; boxes are called camarotes, stalls cadeiras, the pit platéa géral). Theatro de São Carlos (Pl. F, 4), Largo de São Carlos, for Italian operas and ballet; Theatro da Republica (Pl. E, F, 4, 5), Rua Antonio Maria Cardoso, for Spanish, Italian, or French plays and operettas; Nacional (Pl. F, 3), Praça de Dom Pedro, for Portuguese plays; also several places for variety entertainments.

Bull Ring (Praça de Touros; Pl. G, 1), reached from the Rocio by the ‘Campo Pequeno’ or ‘Lumiar’ tramway-cars; parties should charter cabs in good time (return-fare ca. 3000 rs.). Bull-fights, less cruel than in Spain, Sun. and holidays (Easter to the end of June); tickets at Praça dos Restauradores 18.

British Minister, Hon. Sir Francis H. Villiers, Rua São Francisco de Borja 63 (Pl. B, 4).—U. S. Minister, Henry T. Gage, Largo do Carino 18 (Pl. P, 4).

Consuls. British, P. A. Somers Cocks, Travessa da Ribeira Nova 26; vice-consul, H. E. Jones.—U. S. Consul-General, Louis H. Aymé, Avenida 9da Liberdade 196 (Pl. F, 1); vice-consul, H. E. Bradford.—Lloyd’s Agents, Rawes & Co., Rua do Commercio 31 (Pl. F, 5).

Goods Agent. E. George, Rua da Prata 8 (Pl. F, 5).—Tourist Agents, Thos. Cook & Son, Rua Aurea 52 (Pl. F, 5).

Churches. English (St. George’s), with cemetery (Pl. C, 2), Rua da Estrella; services at 11 & 7; chaplain, Rev. E. P. Lewis, D. D.—Presbyterian (Pl. B, 4), Rua da Arriaga 13; services at 11 & 7.30; minister, Rev. R. M. Lithgow.

Club. Royal British Club, Rua de São Francisco de Paula 1 (Pl. B, 4), also for temporary members.

Sights. The Churches, few of which are interesting, are open from 7 to 10 a.m., the Cathedral till 1 p.m.

Museu d’Artilheria (p. 14), on week-days 10–3, free.

Museu Nacional das Bellas Artes (p. 14), Sun., Thurs., and holidays, 11–4, free; on other days 12–2, by leave of the director obtained through the attendant. When the main door is closed the entrance is to the left, through the gateway of the barracks and the garden.

Museu Nacional dos Coches (p. 14), daily, exc. Frid., 12–5, free.

Visitors having only a few hours at their disposal on land should avail themselves of one of the circular tramway-lines (p. 7) to obtain a general survey of the town. The Graça Church (p. 13; *View) should be visited in the morning (‘Graça’ tramway); in the afternoon, Alameda de São Pedro de Alcántara (p. 11) or Estrella Church (p. 12). The trip to Belem (p. 14) should on no account be omitted.

Two Days. 1st. Forenoon: Praça do Commercio and Rocio (pp. 10, 11); Avenida da Liberdade (p. 11); *Alameda de São Pedro de Alcántara (p. 11); *Botanic Garden (p. 11); Estrella Church (p. 12; *View). Afternoon: Belem (p. 14).—2nd. Excursion to *Cintra (p. 15), requiring at least half a day.—Bull-fights, see p. 8.

Lisbon, Portuguese Lisbóa, the capital of the new republic of Portugal (comp. p. 10), the see of an archbishop, a fortress, and also an important commercial city, with 357,700 inhab., lies in 38° 42′ N. lat. and 9° 11′ W. long., on the broad Bay of the Tagus, which forms an excellent harbour just above the comparatively narrow (1–2 M.) mouth of the river (see p. xxix). The town rises in picturesque terraces, affording many charming views, while the luxuriance of its public gardens is almost unrivalled in Europe. Lisbon is certainly a very beautiful city, and its ardent admirers have compared it even with Naples and Constantinople.

The town, which is girdled by the Estrada da Circumvallação, a road 5 M. long, consists of several quarters. On the E. lies the old town, or Lisboa Oriental, on the slope of the Collina do Castello. On the low ground between the old town and the new is the Cidade Baixa, which has sprung up since the earthquake of 1755. To the W. is Lisboa Occidental, the modern quarter. Along the Tagus extend quays and docks, constructed in 1887, and, after a serious collapse, restored in 1894–1905. The harbour is entered by 5000 vessels annually, one-third of them being under the British flag, one-tenth under the French, and one tenth under the German. The Portuguese vessels are chiefly engaged in trading with the country’s African colonies and with S. America.

The ancient name of Lisbon was Ulisipo or Olisipo, which led early Greek travellers and scholars to connect the place, but erroneously, with 10the legends of Ulysses. Under the Romans, thanks to its splendid harbour, it ranked as the second city in Lusitania, and alternately with Mérida, the capital, was frequently the residence of the Roman governors. From 407 to 585 it was occupied by the Alans, and from 585 to 715 by the Visigoths, and after the battle of Veger de la Frontera (711) it fell into the hands of the Moors, who called it Aloshbuna or Lishbuna. In 1147 it was retaken by king Affonso Henriques, aided by an army of Crusaders. The bulk of these were Englishmen; and thus the siege of Lisbon is doubly interesting as it was ‘the first instance of the close connection between the two nations (England and Portugal) which has lasted down to the present century’ (H. M. Stephens).

The importance of Lisbon began under Affonso III. (1248–79), who transferred the royal residence hither from Coimbra (1260). The great discoveries made by the Portuguese at the end of the 15th cent., and the conquest of India by Francisco d’Almeida (d. 1510) and Affonso de Albuquerque (d. 1515), greatly benefited the capital, which soon became the richest town in Europe, and recovered rapidly even from the effects of the earthquakes of 1531 and 1575. But the sixty years of Spanish dominion (1580–1640), the defeats of the Spanish and Portuguese fleets in the war with Holland, and the loss of India were severe trials. The earthquake of 1755 laid half the city in ruins. The beginning of the 19th cent. brought the French invasion, the removal of the royal residence to Rio de Janeiro, the Peninsular War, the loss of Brazil, and the utter decadence of Lisbon. Since the period of revolutions, and since the partial bankruptcy of the country in 1892, Lisbon has again risen from a state of decay to be a great and handsome city, thanks largely to the initiative of the German Prince Ferdinand of Saxe-Coburg-Kohary, consort of Queen Maria II., and to his sons, Pedro V. (1853–61) and Luis I. (1861–89). Party strife in the next reign led to the dictatorship of the minister João Franco, and on 1st Feb. 1908 Lisbon witnessed the assassination of Carlos I. and the crown-prince Luis Philippe (comp. p. 14). Carlos’s second son then ascended the throne as Manuel II. He had, however, only reigned two years when the establishment of the Republic forced him to go into exile (5th Oct., 1910). President of the provisional government Theophilo Braga. The republican colours are green and red.

a. Cidade Baixa, Lisboa Occidental and Oriental.

Most of the public buildings in Lisbon, erected almost exclusively after the earthquake of 1755, are situated in the Praça do Commercio (Pl. F, 5). In the centre of the square rises an Equestrian Statue of Joseph I. (1750–77); on the S. side is the Caes das Columnas, a quay affording a superb view of the bay of the Tagus, with its busy shipping, and of the S. bank (Outra Banda), with the castle-hill of Palmella in the distance.

To the N. of this square begins the rectangularly planned Cidade Baixa (‘lower city’), once a bay of the Tagus, the three chief streets of which, running to the N., are the Rua Augusta, spanned by a triumphal arch, the Rua d’Ouro or Aurea (to the left), and the Rua da Prata (to the right). These streets afford interesting glimpses of the towering masses of the houses of Lisboa Occidental (to the left), with the Carmo church, and of Lisboa Oriental (to the right), with the cathedral and the castle of St. George. At the N. end of the Rua Augusta and the Rua Aurea lies the—

Praça de Dom Pedro Quarto (Pl. F, 3, 4), commonly called 11O Rocío, one of the chief tramway stations (p. 7). Owing to the peculiar wavy pattern of its mosaic pavement the Rocio has received from the British sailors the nickname ‘Roly-poly Square’. The square is adorned with two bronze fountains and a marble column bearing a bronze Statue of Pedro IV. (d. 1834; emperor of Brazil, 1826–31). Above the S.W. corner of the square rises on massive substructures the picturesque ruined church of Igreja do Carmo, destroyed by the earthquake of 1755. We may reach it by the ‘ascensor’ No. 1 (p. 7). On the N. side rises the Theatro Nacional (p. 8). The Market in the adjacent Praça da Figueira (Pl. F, 4), to the E., deserves a visit in the early morning.

From the W. side of the theatre we proceed past the Central Station (p. 6) to the *Avenida da Liberdade (Pl. F, E, 3–1), a magnificent promenade, 100 yds. wide and more than ½ M. long, with luxuriant vegetation, especially palms, and affording charming views. It is most frequented on Sundays and holidays towards evening, when the fashionable world may be seen driving and riding. At the beginning of the Avenida is the Praça dos Restauradores, with the Monumento dos Restauradores de Portugal, recalling the revolt of 1640, when the yoke of the Spanish ‘Intrusos’ was shaken off.

To the left, at the beginning of the Avenida Promenade, is the steep Calçada da Gloria, through which a funicular tramway (No. 2; p. 7) ascends to the *Alameda de São Pedro de Alcántara (Pl. E, F, 3), where we enjoy a magnificent view of the bay, to the S., and of Lisboa Oriental, with St. George’s Castle and the churches of Graça and do Monte (p. 13), to the E. Far below lie the Avenida da Liberdade, the Central Station, the Rocio, and the Baixa.

From the S. angle of the gardens the Rua do Mundo (Pl. E, F, 3, 4) descends to the Largo da Misericordia, and past the Jesuit church of São Roque, a sumptuous late-Renaissance edifice by Fil. Terzi, an Italian architect (1566), to the Praça de Luis de Camões (p. 12). We proceed, however, to the N.W. of the Alameda and follow the Rua de Dom Pedro Quinto to the—

Praça do Rio de Janeiro (Pl. E, 2, 3), with a fountain and attractive pleasure-grounds, occupying the highest site in Lisboa Occidental. From the W. angle of the grounds we obtain a fine view of the Estrella church (p. 12) and the Tagus.

Proceeding in the same direction we next follow the Rua da Escola Polytechnica to the Polytechnic School (Pl. E, 2), which comprises an interesting Natural History Museum (entrance on the N.W. side), an Observatory, and a Meteorological Station. To the Polytechnic belongs also the—

*Botanic Garden (Pl. E, 2; open to the public), founded in 1875, and for luxuriance of vegetation the finest in Europe. The lower part of the garden contains a magnificent avenue of palms and numerous southern plants. It is reached by a road from the S.E. 12angle of the Polytechnic, and there is a side-entrance in the Rua Nova da Alegria. In the upper part are the Estufas or greenhouses.

We descend to a lower exit of the garden opening into the Avenida, cross the latter and ascend by the Ascensor da Lavra (p. 7) to the E. town. From the Campo dos Martyres da Patria (Pl. F, G, 2), the terminus of the funicular, the tramway ‘Santo André’ (infrequent service), or the circular line ‘Graça’ below its E. side, lead to the Rua da Palma (funicular No. 4, p. 7). Thereafter through Lisboa Oriental, see below.

We may travel also by the ‘Graça’ tramway (in returning called ‘Rua Gomes Freire’) in the reverse direction, starting from the Sé Patriarchal and proceeding to the Nossa Senhora da Graça church on the way out, and descend by the funicular.

From the Botanic Garden the ‘Estrella’ tramway brings us viâ the Largo do Rato (Pl. D, 1) to the Aqueducto das Aguas Livres, constructed in 1729–49. It leads us farther to Buenos Ayres, the high-lying W. quarter of the city, to the vicinity of the cemeteries, and to the Jardim da Estrella (Pl. C, 2).

The Estrella Church (Pl. C, 3), officially known as the Basilica do Santissimo Coração de Jesús, was built in 1779–96. It is crowned with a lofty dome over the crossing, and its interior is sumptuously fitted up.

The *Ascent of the Dome (entrance by 5th door on the right; fee 100 rs.) amply repays the fatigue. The stairs in the N.W. tower ascend first to the flat roof of the church, where we already have a fine view. We then pass through the double lining of the dome into a gallery surrounding its interior. A ladder finally leads to the Lantern, the view from which (best in the afternoon) is the most extensive in Lisbon and includes the whole of the city, the S. bank of the estuary, and the ocean.

The Jardim da Estrella is flanked on the W. by the Rua da Estrella which ascends to the English Cemetery (Cemiterio dos Inglezes; Pl. C, 2; visitors ring; fee 50–100 rs.), laid out in 1717, the oldest Protestant burial-ground in Portugal. It contains the grave of Henry Fielding (1707–54), author of the immortal ‘Tom Jones’. Here too is the English Church (p. 9).

To return from this point we take the funicular No. 3 (p. 7), past the Palacio das Côrtes (Pl. D, 3; Chamber of Deputies), to the Praça de Luis de Camões (Pl. E, 4; pron. Kamŏengsh), which is embellished with a monument of the famous poet Camões (1524–80), the author of the Lusiads, a great national epic celebrating the noble deeds of his countrymen.

From the Praça de Camões we return through the Rua Garrett and the Rua do Carmo (Pl. F, 4), the busiest streets in the town, with the best shops, to the Rocio (p. 11).

Time permitting, we may now pay a short visit to Lisboa Oriental, which is best reached by the funicular line No. 4 (p. 7). 13From the terminus in the Largo da Graça (Pl. H, 3, 4) we pass round the old Graça monastery (now barracks) to the church of—

Nossa Senhora da Graça (Pl. G, H, 3, 4; 262 ft.), situated on a hill which affords a fine view of Lisboa Occidental and the lower town, while the harbour is concealed by St. George’s Castle (see below).

We now return to the barracks just mentioned and enter the Rua da Graça to the N., whence the Travessa do Monte leads immediately to the left to the (5 min.) chapel of Nossa Senhora do Monte (Pl. G, H, 3; 328 ft.). The extensive *View from this point embraces the greater part of Lisbon, the harbour, the S. bank, and the region to the N.E. as far as Santarém.

From the Rua da Graça the circular tramway ‘Rua Gomes Freire’ descends to the old Augustinian monastery of São Vicente de Fóra (Pl. H, 4), now the seat of the Patriarch of Lisbon. The church, a late-Renaissance building of 1582, lost its dome in the earthquake of 1755. The cloisters contain the Pantheon Real, the burial-place of the Portuguese monarchs of the House of Braganza from the time of John IV. (d. 1656) onwards.

We take the same circular tramway-line as far as the Largo do Contador Mór (Pl. G, 4). Thence we walk through the Travessa do Funil to the Rua do Chão de Feira, and through the St. George’s Gateway to the Castello de São Jorge (Pl. G, 4), an ancient Moorish stronghold and once a royal residence, but now used as barracks and a military prison, where we apply at the guard-house for leave to see the fine view from the S. Terrace. If so disposed we may descend to the cathedral, which stands about halfway up the castle-hill and is known as the—

Sé Patriarchal (Pl. G, 5), the oldest church in Lisbon, founded in 1150, but rebuilt in the Gothic style in the 14th cent., and almost entirely modernized after the earthquake of 1755. From the cathedral the Rua da Conceição brings us back to the lower town.

b. The Streets on the Tagus. Belem.

In the Rua da Alfándega, a few paces to the E. of the Praça do Commercio (p. 10), rises the church of—

Nossa Senhora da Conceição Velha (Pl. ‘C.V.’; G, 5). The *Façade, in the richest ‘Emmanuel style’ (see p. 14), is a relic of the church of Nossa Senhora da Misericordia, which was destroyed by the earthquake of 1755. A little farther on, between Nos. 42 and 44 we get a glimpse of the Casa dos Bicos, built in the 16th cent. by Braz, a son of Affonso de Albuquerque (p. 10). It derives its name from the facetted stones of the façade (‘bico’ meaning beak or point). All the electric tramways proceed farther 14to the Arsenal do Exército (Pl. H, 4, 5), containing the Artillery Museum on the first floor (adm., see p. 9).

From the N.W. corner of the Praça do Commercio, where king Carlos and the crown-prince were brutally assassinated in 1908, the Rua do Arsenal leads to the Largo do Municipio (Pl. F, 5), in the centre of which stands a so-called Pelourinho, or pillory, as a symbol of the civic jurisdiction.

The tramway ‘Santo Amaro Pampueha’ passes the Museu Nacional das Bellas Artes (Pl. B, C, 4; adm., see p. 9), Rua das Janellas Verdes 57, which contains art-industrial collections and a picture-gallery. (Note in Room G, on the N. wall, No. 282, St. Jerome, by Alb. Dürer.)

The outer line, skirting the Tagus and affording fine views, passes the Mercado, or fish-market (Pl. E, 5), which is worth seeing in the early morning.

The two ‘Belem’ tramway-lines (Algés and Dafundo) lead through the suburb of Junqueira to that of Belem (Brit. vice-consul, C. J. F. Duff). The Praça de Dom Fernando with a bronze statue, 13 ft. in height, of Affonso de Albuquerque (p. 10) is adjoined on the N. by the Paço de Belem. In the S.E. corner of the building is the Museu Nacional dos Coches (adm., see p. 9), with about thirty historical state-carriages.

Farther to the W. we reach in 5 min. the Praça de Vasco da Gama, with the famous—

**Convento dos Jeronymos de Belem (Bethlehem; tramway from the Praça do Commercio, Pl. F5, in ca. ½ hr.). This Hieronymite monastery, founded in 1499 in memory of Vasco da Gama’s voyage of discovery, but used as an orphanage (Casa Pia) since 1834, is still, in spite of infelicitous alterations, the most brilliant example of the fantastic ‘Emmanuel style’ (Arte Manuelina), of the time of Emmanuel I. the Great, a picturesque blend of late-Gothic, Moorish, and Renaissance features with motifs from the gorgeous edifices of the East Indies.

The church of Santa Maria, at the S.E. angle of the monastery, the burial-place of king Emmanuel and his successors, has a superb portal by João de Castilho (sculptured by Nicholas ‘the Frenchman’), which, according to Mr. Fergusson, resembles in design and detail the chapel at Roslin (see Baedeker’s Great Britain). The church is open from early morning till 9, and also after 2.30 p.m.—Adjoining the W. portal of the church is the entrance (where we ring; fee 100–150 rs.) to the orphanage and to the grand *Cloisters, the master-work of João de Castilho.

On the Tagus, about ½ M. to the S.W. of the monastery, rises the *Tower of Belem (Torre de Belem), erected in 1520 to guard the mouth of the river (best viewed at a distance).

17½ M. Railway (in ¾–1 hr.). Nine expresses in summer, besides several slow trains (tranvias), but fewer in winter (fares 530, 360, 230 rs.), starting from the Central Station (p. 6).

The train passes through a tunnel 1½ M. long to (3¾ M.) Campolide in the valley of the Alcántara. To the left are the arches of the aqueduct (p. 12). At (13 M.) Cacem our line diverges to the left from the railway to Alfarellos (Coimbra and Oporto).

The country becomes more hilly; eucalypti, pines, and olives abound. To the left rise the hills of Cintra.

17½ M. Cintra.—Hotels. *Gr.-Hôt. Costa, Netto, Lawrence, Nunes, Central, déj. or D. 800 rs., some closed in winter.

Tramway from the station (to the left of the exit) to the Praça da Republica (20 rs.).—Cabs (good; with two horses) to the Castello da Pena 2500 rs.; to the Quinta do Monserrate and back, 2000 rs.; but lower fares are often accepted on application to the cab-owner himself.

If time presses, we may visit both the Castello da Pena and the Quinta de Monserrate in 4–5 hrs. (cab 4500 rs., bargaining advisable). Energetic pedestrians require scarcely more time. Donkeys, only to be recommended to gentlemen travelling alone, are a doubtful advantage, nor will those in haste find the services of drivers or guides of much avail; the usual price, after bargaining, is 400–500 rs. But it is more enjoyable to devote a forenoon to the Castello da Pena, and the afternoon to the Paço de Cintra and the Quinta.

Cintra (680 ft.; pop. 5000), a favourite summer resort, lies at the N. base of the granitic Serra de Cintra, on a spur between two ravines, amidst groves of evergreen oaks and pines, and surrounded by charming country-houses. Immediately above the little town rises a steep rock, crowned by the Moorish castle. Beyond this rises the Pena with the palace.

The centre of traffic is the Praça da Republica, with its late-Gothic Pelourinho (p. 14) and the main entrance to the palace.

The *Paço de Cintra, formerly the Royal Palace, was begun by John I. (1383–1433) on the foundations of a Moorish palace and completed early in the 16th cent. by Emmanuel the Great. The older parts, built by Moorish hands, show a mingling of Moorish and late-Gothic elements, while the newer parts, particularly the E. wing, are in the ‘Emmanuel style’ (p. 14). The most characteristic features of the exterior are two conspicuous conical kitchen-chimneys, the horseshoe and toothed arches of the Moorish windows, and the Moorish battlemented parapet. The mural tiles and the honeycombed wooden ceilings in the interior are other survivals of the Moorish period. Visitors are shown round by the castellan.

The Avenida Candido dos Reis, the road leading to the S. from the Largo of that name, brings us in ¾ hr. to the Castello dos Mouros (1408 ft.). The castle consists of two parts, to which a 16double wall, much modernized, ascends. A visit to it takes more time than travellers in a hurry can afford.

About ¼ hr. farther on we reach the Porta Principal of the Park of Pena, where we alight (cameras must be given up). The officials are not allowed to act as guides; the services of others should be declined. The park contains over 400 species of trees and shrubs.

The *Castello da Pena (1732 ft.), perched on a steep rocky hill, was built in 1840–50 in the style of a mediæval castle, partly within an old monastery, by the Prince-Consort Ferd. of Coburg. The main tower is a copy of the tower of Belem (p. 14). The castle is approached by two gates and a cutting in the rock (‘corredor’). The ‘galeria’ of the castle affords delightful views.

In the Interior (adm. free) we pass through the Vestibule, with a pyramidal tower, into the old Convent Church, with its superb Renaissance altar brought from Belem, and into the two-storied cloisters. The apartments contain many pictures (including an example of Adr. Brouwer) and costly Hispano-Moorish majolicas. The ‘Sala de Veados’ is embellished with stags’ antlers. The *Dome above it is perhaps the finest point of view in the Serra de Cintra, but its ascent requires a steady head. The eye ranges over Estremadura, from Cape Espichel on the S.E. to the Berlengas Islands (p. 4) on the N. To the N.E. rises the huge façade of the palace of Mafra. To the E. we obtain glimpses of Lisbon and the plain to the S. of the Tagus. To the S. rises the summit of the Cruz Alta, and to the W. lies the boundless Atlantic.

We now enter the Jardim das Camelias or castle-garden, where the camellias, rhododendrons, and azaleas present a marvellous wealth of blossom in spring; then, passing a well and several fish-ponds, we soon reach a side-exit from the grounds, where the carriage should be ordered to meet us.

The *Cruz Alta (1736 ft.), the highest of the Cintra hills, which affords a view similar to that from the dome of the castle, may be ascended in 20 min. by a path diverging in the park to the S., near the Porta Principal, and passing the Statue of Vasco da Gama.

A favourite walk near Cintra is the *Caminho de Collares skirting the hills. This road, bordered with beautiful evergreens, leads past charming country-houses (the Penha Verde and others). On the right, about 2 M. from Cintra, is the famous—

**Quinta de Monserrate (adm. 200, on Sun. and holidays 300 rs.), the property of Sir Fred. Cook, Visconde de Monserrate. The grounds, a visit to which takes 1–2 hrs., extend far over hill and dale, and are unique in Europe in magnificence of vegetation. From the entrance we turn to the left, cross a brook, and follow its left bank, where we enjoy a delightful view of the palace beyond the lofty tree-ferns. We then pass an artificial ruin, walk round the palace (no adm.), and re-ascend to the entrance.

See also Baedeker’s Spain and Portugal.

3. Madeira.

Steamboat Lines. 1. Union Castle Line, steamers weekly from Southampton to Madeira in 3½ days (on their way to S. and E. Africa); fares, 1st cl. 15–17 guineas, 2nd 10–12 gs. (return in each case about ⅔ more); also summer tours to Madeira, Las Palmas, or Teneriffe and back, 18 or 12 gs., or, with a week’s board in one of the islands, 20 or 14 gs.—2. Royal Mail Steam Packet Co., fortnightly from Southampton (for Brazil) viâ Vigo and Lisbon to Madeira (fares 11l. 10s. or 8l.); also fortnightly from London round voyage to Gibraltar, Tangier, Casablanca, Mazagan, Saffi, and Mogador, returning viâ Las Palmas, Teneriffe, and Madeira (fare from 22 gs.; single to Madeira or Canary Islands from 15 gs.).—3. Booth Line (for Brazil), thrice monthly from Liverpool to Madeira; 10l., return 16l. 10s.—4. Yeoward Bros. Line, weekly from Liverpool to the Canaries calling on alternate voyages at Madeira; comp. p. 28.—5. Federal, Houlder, & Shire Lines, from Liverpool fortnightly, for Australia or New Zealand, calling at Madeira, Las Palmas, or Teneriffe, 10 gs.—6. Empreza Nacional de Navegação, from Lisbon to Madeira, 1st and 7th of each month; 5l. 6s. 3d. or 3l. 12s. 3d., return 9l. 0s. 8d. or 6l. 3s.—7. Empreza Insulana, from Lisbon to Madeira, 20th of each month; 4l. 5s. or 3l. 3s. 9d., return 7l. 13s. or 5l. 14s. 9d.—During the winter season the Mediterranean steamers of the White Star and Cunard Lines (p. 118) call once monthly at Madeira, and the Transports Maritimes (p. 120) occasionally touch at Madeira.

The communication between Madeira and the Canary Islands (R. 4) is very defective.

The Archipelago da Madeira, or Madeira group of islands, consists of Madeira itself, the largest of the group, 37 by 14 M., Porto Santo (rising 1663 ft. above the sea), 6½ by 3 M., which lies 26½ M. to the N.E. of Madeira, and the three uninhabited Desertas. These are the islets of Chão (341 ft.), 12½ M. to the S.E. of Madeira, Deserta Grande (1611 ft.), and Bugio (1349 ft.). Madeira lies in 33° N. lat., between the Azores and the Canary Islands (R. 4), 620 M. to the S.W. of Lisbon, 370 M. to the N.W. of Cape Juby (p. 104), and 275 M. to the N. of Teneriffe (p. 32). The population of the islands, which are said to have been uninhabited when discovered by the Portuguese in 1419, is now, in an area of 314 sq. M., about 150,000. All the islands are of volcanic origin. In Madeira, above the primæval diabase rock (p. 29), numerous 18eruptions since the miocene epoch have formed a number of extinct craters (lagoas), and as in the Canaries have raised the soil 1150 ft. above its original level. The main ridge of the island, running from W. to E., and culminating in the Pico Ruivo (‘red peak’; 6060 ft.), frequently rises in rocky pinnacles. In examining the geological structure of the island one is struck with ‘the constant mingling of solid masses of basalt and lava with strata of loose tufa and ashes, the whole being interspersed with upright dykes of lava’. The only tablelands are the Paul da Serra, on the W., and the smaller Santo Antonio da Serra, on the E. On the S. and N. slopes of the central range we observe a series of very curious and grand basins (curraes, sing. curral), which are enclosed by high rocks, and are connected with the sea by deep ravines, testifying to the enormous erosion caused by water and wind. Narrow strips of coast, strewn with rounded fragments of basalt, occur only at the mouths of the few streams, and on the largest of these lies Funchal, the capital of the island, on its S.W. margin.

The mild and wonderfully equable climate of Madeira which since 1850 has attracted numberless invalids, chiefly English, to its shores, is due partly to its southern position, tempered by the surrounding ocean, but mainly to the influence of the Gulf Stream, which sends from the Azores an offshoot, known as the Canary branch, towards the African coast. On the sunny S. coast in particular, which is free from fog and is sheltered from the prevailing N.W. wind by the above-mentioned main ridge, the mean and almost unvarying temperature of the three winter months (at Funchal 61° Fahr.; minimum 50°) is considerably higher than that of the favourite Mediterranean resorts (Nice 48° Fahr., Ajaccio 52°, Algiers 54½°, Málaga 55°), while the summer temperature is lower (at Funchal in Aug. 70½°, maximum 92°). Dust is almost unknown. The rainfall (at Funchal 27½ inches; but more in the mountains and on the N. coast), chiefly in sudden and heavy showers, occurs mostly between October and February or March. The lowest snow-line is 1970 ft. above the sea. The relative moisture of the air (67 per cent) at Funchal is moderate, notwithstanding the proximity of the sea. As in the Canaries, the mountains are generally cloud-capped about midday, except during the prevalence of the Leste, the wind blowing from the African desert (p. 29), which in Madeira is not specially unpleasant.

Thanks to the genial climate, the abundant winter rains, and the system of irrigation by means of open channels (levadas), whereby water is brought down, partly through tunnels (furos), from its mountain sources, the fields and gardens of Madeira, ‘Flor do Océano’, show an almost tropical luxuriance of vegetation. Side by side with pines, junipers, and deciduous European trees, such as the plane, the chestnut, the maple, the oak, and the walnut, of 19which there are many splendid specimens, are seen countless evergreen trees and shrubs of tropical and subtropical origin. Among these are palms, araucarias, hickory-trees, cork-trees, camphor-trees, figs, palm-lilies (yuccas; p. 233), magnolias, eucalypti, bamboos, papyrus-bushes, tree-ferns, and aloes. A few isolated dragon-trees (p. 30), the laurel (vinhatico), and the tilwood tree (Oreodaphne fœtens), a kind of bay-tree scarcely occurring elsewhere, are survivals of the primæval forest destroyed by the Portuguese discoverers, and now lingering only in the remote ravines and on the slopes of the N. coast. To that forest the island owes its name (madeira, ‘wood’; Isŏla di Legname on old Italian charts). The hill-sides are now largely clothed with tree-like erica and broom (Genista madeirense, G. virgata, furze, etc.), large bilberry-bushes (Vaccinium madeirense), stemless ferns, and box, forming a kind of evergreen underwood. In the gardens of Funchal, enclosed by high walls, the traveller feasts his eyes, especially in May, on a most exuberant flora, comprising roses, rhododendrons, azaleas, camellias, callas, bignonias, daturas, fuchsias, hydrangeas, honeysuckle, and a superb red and purple bougainvillea. The garden-walls, field-roads, and hill-terraces are everywhere overgrown with vines, but, as in the Canary Islands, the wine-culture has suffered since 1852 from the grape-disease (Oïdium Tuckeri) and from the competition of port-wine (p. 4). Among favourite brands are Malvasia or Malmsey, a sweet dessert-wine, Boal, and the astringent Sercial. Like the Vega of Málaga (p. 89), the S. coast of Madeira yields the sugar-cane, which forms the chief crop of the island, bananas, sweet potatoes (p. 89; Portug. batata doce), cherimolias, coffee-plants, yams (Dioscorea batatas; Portug. inhame), and early vegetables, which last are exported chiefly to England. Pine-apples thrive in hot-houses only. The natives live mostly on maize and the fruit of a kind of cactus (Opuntia Tuna) which grows abundantly on all the rocks.

Madeira also possesses several charming home-industries, producing embroidery, lace, silk shawls, basket-work, inlaid laurel-wood, and feather-flowers. Funchal, the only considerable harbour in the island, is an important coaling and provisioning station for steamers bound for S. Africa and for America. The heavy customs-dues, which render living dear, the over-population of the island, and the poverty of the peasantry cause a considerable emigration, chiefly to S. America.

Season and Mode of Travel. Madeira is an admirable health and rest resort at all seasons, except perhaps for sufferers from neurasthenia or gastric disorders; but in summer the Monte (p. 24) and Camacha are preferable to the lower sites. Tourists, on the other hand, will find July, Aug., and Sept, the best months for their purpose, as the hotels are cheaper and less crowded, the days are long, and the dry weather favours excursions into the interior. At Funchal English, French, and in the larger hotels German are much spoken, but in the interior 20Portuguese only. Those unacquainted with the language of the natives are then dependent on the help of their horse-attendants (arrieiros) or guides (guias or chapas), many of whom speak a little English. At the principal hotels and shops English money is readily received, but small Portuguese change is required for fees and other minor outlays. Beggars abound, but their importunities should invariably be disregarded (comp. also p. xxv).

The streets of Funchal and the hill-roads are paved with round and slippery cobbles of basalt, against which india-rubber heels afford protection. The most popular vehicles are the bullock-cars (carros de bois; seated for 4 persons; 400–1000 rs. per hour). For steep descents the carro do monte or carrinho, a kind of running sledge, is employed (400–1200 rs. per drive). The longer excursions on the extremely hilly routes so characteristic of Madeira are best taken on horseback. The horses of Andalusian race are wonderfully wiry and sure-footed (per hour 500 rs.; arrieiro, or attendant, 800–1000 rs. per day). Ladies and invalids use the hammock or litter (rede), a costly conveyance (2–4 bearers, at 500–600 rs. each per hour). Finger-posts are entirely lacking.

The few Vendas, or country-inns, and the houses of the mountain engineers (to which travellers are admitted by leave from the office of the Obras Publicas at Funchal, Rua do Conselheiro Vieira 80) afford very primitive quarters. Travellers should therefore be provided with rugs, preserved meats, candles, insect-powder, and good drinking-water. As in the Alps, strong boots with nails and a hasta or bordão, a long stick with an iron spike, are desirable for mountaineering.

Among Books on Madeira may be mentioned A. Samler Brown’s Guide to Madeira, the Canary Islands, and the Azores (10th ed., London, 1910; 2s. 6d.); Leaves from a Madeira Garden, by Chas. Thomas-Stanford (London, 1910; 5s.); Yate Johnson’s Handbook of Madeira (London, 1885); Madeira, by Ellen M. Taylor (2nd ed., London, 1889); Madeira Islands, by A. J. D. Biddle (2nd ed., London, 1900; 2 vols.); Madeira, Old and New, by W. H. Koebel (London, 1909; 10s. 6d.); The Flowers and Gardens of Madeira, by the Misses Du Cane (London, 1909; 7s. 6d.).

The Steamers arriving from the N. skirt the W. coast of Porto Santo (p. 17), an island in the form of a tableland, surrounded by five reef-islets; its inhabitants (about 2300) live mostly in the little town of Villa Baleira. Beyond Porto Santo we obtain a superb view of the abrupt and furrowed N. coast of Madeira, with the curiously shaped Penha d’Aguia (p. 27).

Farther on appears the long E. promontory of Madeira, a rocky peninsula worn by the surf, and connected with the islet of Ponta de São Lourenço by a grand rocky gateway called the Ponta do Furado. We steer round the Ilheo de Fora, an outlying islet with a lighthouse (Farol; 348 ft.), visible from a distance of 28 M., towards which the steamers from Lisbon, Gibraltar, and Morocco direct their course, passing to the S. of Porto Santo.

To the S., beyond the low island of Chão, rise the Deserta Grande and Bugio, the largest of the Desertas (p. 17), a group of islands deserted for lack of water, and now owned by Mr. C. J. Cossart, of Madeira. British sportsmen desiring to shoot wild goats there or hunt seals (Monachus albiventer) in the ocean-caves of the Deserta Grande must obtain permission from the owner.

21The thinly peopled and somewhat bare S.E. coast of Madeira, with the three little harbours of Caniçal, Machico, and Santa Cruz, shows clearly the geological formation of the island (comp. pp. 17, 18). Off Porto Novo, in particular, we are struck with the rich colouring of the Pico dos Iroses, where the sombre basaltic and lava rock contrasts with brick-red strata of ashes and blood-red masses of slag.

Very beautiful is the approach to the *Bay of Funchal, which is bounded on the E. by the bold Cabo do Garajão, and on the W. by the Ponta da Cruz, a spur of the Pico da Ponta da Cruz (p. 25). From the narrow strip of coast the lanes of the old town mount the steep hill-side between the three river-beds (which are generally dry), while several groups of houses extend up to the Pico Fort (p. 23) and the Levada de Santa Luzia (p. 24). Farther up, stretching to the terrace of the Monte (p. 24), are gardens and vineyards, from which peep many white quintas or country-houses. On the plateau behind Forte Ilheo (p. 24) are seen the charming gardens, with their tall araucarias, belonging to the W. suburb of Funchal, the finest residential quarter. Of the barren mountains in the background the highest peak visible from the sea is the Pico de Santo Antonio (p. 25), to the N.W. of the town.

Funchál.—Arrival. The steamers cast anchor in the open roads, which are much exposed to the surf when the wind is from the S. or S.W. The passenger’s luggage, including hand-bags and small packages, is conveyed from the steamer, in charge of a guarda fiscal, direct to the Alfándega, or custom-house (Pl. 1; C, D, 2). Tobacco, spirits, and unused articles are specially dutiable. The charge for landing is about 500 rs. for each person, but should be ascertained beforehand, with the aid of the hotel-porter if necessary. In stormy weather passengers are landed at the Pontinha (Pl. B, 3), a small pier beyond the Forte Ilheo. At the custom-house a declaration has to be filled up, for which the fee is 50 rs.; the luggage is then usually retained till midday, and when it is finally cleared the passenger gives a receipt for it (250–300 rs. more). For the transport of luggage to the hotel by bullock-car not more than 1000 rs. should be paid (an agreement should be made beforehand). The Madeira clock is 59 min. behind Greenwich time.

Hotels (mostly in the English style; almost all with beautiful gardens; crowded from Dec. to April). In the W. suburb *Reid’s Palace Hotel (Pl. a; A, 3), situated on a basalt rock and commanding fine views, with sea-baths, etc., pens. 10–25s. (or in the dépendance, Villa Victoria, 8s. 6d.–18s.); Hot. Bella Vista (Pl. b, B 2; Jones’s), above the Rua da Imperatriz Dona Maria, pens. from 8s.; Hot. Royal (Pl. c, A 3; Adams’s), Rua da Imperatriz Dona Amelia, pens. from 8s.; Pension Quisisana (Reuter’s), Estrada Monumental (Pl. A, 3), 8–12s.; Pension Almeida (Pl. f; A, 3), by the Redondo.—In the old town, Reid’s Carmo Hotel (Pl. d; D, 1), Rua do Carmo, 8s. 6d.–18s.; Gr.-Hôt. Central (Swiss landlady), near the pier (Caes; Pl. C, 2); Hot. Universal (Pl. e; C, 2), Largo da Sé, pens. 1200 rs., a Portug. house.—On the Monte (p. 24; comp. inset plan), with splendid views, Monte Palace Hotel (Pl. g); Hot. Belmonte (Pl. h); Reid’s Mount Park Hotel (Pl. i), pens. 7s. 6d.–10s.; all three near the terminus. Wine, always an extra, is dear. The Agua Minero-Natural of Porto Santo is a good table-water (60 rs. per small bottle).

Apartments for the winter in numerous quintas or villas, furnished, but without bed or table linen; from Oct. to June 40l. and upwards.

22Restaurants. Phenix, Praça da Rainha (Pl. C, 2); Golden Gate, Entrada da Cidade 7 (Pl. C, 2; with American bar).—English Tea Rooms, Café Monaco.—Wine. Vaccaria do Souza, Rua de João Tavira.

Post & Telegraph Office (Estação Telegrapho-Postal; Pl. 5, C, 2), Entrada da Cidade.

Theatre. Theatro de Dona Maria Pia (Pl. 16; C, 2), opposite the Jardim Municipal.—Evening Concerts twice a week in the Jardim Municipal, etc.

Shops in the Praça da Constituição, Rua do Aljube, Rua do Conselheiro Vieira, etc.; bargaining necessary; the prices are higher when the purchaser is attended by a guide. Pedlars often charge more than the shops.—Embroidery, etc., at Ad. v. Breymann’s, Rua do Conselheiro Vieira 77.—Wines, etc., sold at Breymann’s; also by Blandy Bros. & Co. (see below); Cossart, Gordon, & Co., Rua do Principe 78; Krohn Bros. & Co. (see below).—Photographic Materials, Bazar do Povo, Largo de São Sebastião.

Banks. Blandy Bros. & Co., Rua da Alfándega 26; Reid, Castro, & Co., Largo de São Sebastião 5; Banco de Portugal, Largo da Sé; Krohn Bros. & Co., Rua do Carmo 2; L. da Rocha Machado, Rua da Alfándega 27.

Physicians. Dr. Grabham, Valle Formoso; Dr. Scott, Quinta Perestrello; Dr. Machado, Rua das Mercês 1 (Pl. C, 1); Dr. Stevens, Villa Ramose.—Chemists. Pharmacia Central, Rua Bettencourt 2; Botica dos Dois Amigos, Largo do Collegio.

Carriages and Horses (p. 20) at De Souza’s, Rua do Bispo. Bullock-cars (p. 20) in the Entrada da Cidade; saddle-horses (poor) in the Largo de São Pedro and the Rua de João Tavira.—Litters (p. 20) in the Largo de São Sebastião.

Motor Cabs in the Entrada da Cidade (tariff by zones; per drive 90–500 rs.; to Camara de Lobos and back 800 rs.).

Horse Tramway (electric line projected) from the Praça da Constituição to the railway-station of Pombal (starting ¼ hr. before each train; 50 rs.).—Rack & Pinion Railway (Caminho de Ferro do Monte) from the Estação do Pombal (Pl. C, 1) viâ Levada, Livramento, Sant’ Anna, and Flamengo, to the Monte (p. 24); 7 trains daily in 20 min.; fare 300, return 400 rs.

British Consul, Capt. J. Boyle, Reid’s Palace Hotel (p. 21); vice-consul, E. Sarsfield.—Lloyd’s Agents, Blandy Bros. & Co. (see above).

Steamboat Agents. Blandy Bros. & Co. (see above) for the Union Castle, Royal Mail Steam Packet Co., Booth, Hamburg-American, and Woermann Lines, the Empreza Nacional de Navegação and the Empreza Insulana de Navegação; Leça, Gomes, & Co. for Yeowards Bros. Line; Gonçalves & Co., Rua do Conselheiro Silvestre Ribeira 2, for the Hamburg & South American Line; J. de Freitas Martins, Rua da Alfándega 52, for the North German Lloyd.—For the coasting service (Serviço costeiro) and pleasure-trips (Viagens de Recreio), see newspapers.

Churches. English (Pl. 4; B, 1), Rua da Bella Vista (Rev. C. Jones Bateman, M. A.), services on Sun. at 8 and 11 a.m., and 5.30 p.m.; Presbyterian (Pl. 15; C, 2), Rua do Conselheiro; American (Pl. 8; C, 2), same street, lower down.

Club. English Rooms, in the Rua da Praia, overlooking the sea, with library and billiard-rooms. Adm. on introduction.

One Day. Visit to the Monte (p. 24) in the forenoon; drive to Camara de Lobos (p. 25) in the afternoon.

Funchal (‘place of fennel’; pop. 25,800), situated in 32° 38′ N. lat. and 16° 55′ W. long., the capital of Madeira and the seat of the Portuguese governor and a bishop, is remarkable for the luxuriant subtropical verdure of its public grounds and private gardens.

23On the Praça da Rainha (Pl. C, 2), the sea-promenade, where we have a view of the Desertas (p. 20), rise the Palacio de São Lourenço (Pl. 10; the governor’s residence), several Club Houses, and a signalling tower called the Pilar de Benger (Pl. 11; ‘Benger’s Folly’). The Varadoures Gate (Pl. 12; D, 2), to the E. of the custom-house, is the sole survival of a town-wall built by the Spaniards early in the 17th cent.; adjacent is the Fruit and Fish Market (Mercado; Pl. D, 2).

Opposite the pier (Caes; Pl. C, 2) the Entrada da Cidade, an avenue of planes, leads to the Praça da Constituição (Pl. 13; C, 2), adorned with pleasure-grounds, in the centre of the town.

Adjacent on the W. is the *Jardim Municipal (public park; Pl. C, 2; evening concerts twice weekly, otherwise closed in the evening), with its exuberant wealth of vegetation and flowers. On the S. side is the Theatre (p. 22).—To the E., in the Largo da Sé, rises the insignificant Cathedral (Sé; Pl. C, 2), with a fine ceiling of Spanish juniper (Portuguese cedro).

On the E. side of the park runs the Rua de São Francisco, leading to the long Rua do Conselheiro Vieira (Pl. B, C, 1, 2), or Rua da Carreira the busiest street, at the N.W. end of which (on the left) is the entrance to the Protestant Cemetery (Cemiterio Britanico; Pl. 3, B 2).

From the N. side of the Rua do Conselheiro Vieira we ascend past the church of São Pedro (Pl. C, 1) and through the steep Calçada de Santa Clara to the convent-church of Santa Clara (Pl. B, C, 1), where Zarco, the discoverer of Madeira, is buried.—Farther to the N. is the Calçada do Pico, whence the Rua do Castello to the left leads to the old Spanish Pico Fort (Forte de São João do Pico; Pl. B, 1), dating from 1632, famed for its *View.

From the E. end of the Rua do Conselheiro Vieira we may now cross the Largo do Collegio, with the Jesuit Church of that name (Pl. C, 1), to the Camara Municipal, or town-hall (Pl. 2; C, 1), in the Rua dos Ferreiros. At the lower end of the same street, not far from the Cathedral, is the Largo de São Sebastião (Pl. 7; C, 2), where the Saturday market is held.

Crossing the neighbouring Ribeira de Santa Luzia we soon reach the Carmo Church (Pl. 6; D, 1).—Along the Ribeira de Santa Luzia ascends the horse-tramway (p. 22) to the station of the Monte railway, near which, to the E. (reached by the Rua do Pombal, Pl. C 1), is the Museum, containing valuable natural history collections and a large relief-map of the island. (Adm. on application; donation to poor-box.)

In the E. suburb of Santa Maria Maior, beyond the Ribeira de Santa Luzia and the Ribeira de João Gomes, is the Campo de Dom Carlos Primeiro (Pl. D, E, 2; drilling-ground), skirting the sea, and partly planted with trees. The Spanish Forte de São Thiago 24(Pl. E, 2; now barracks), built in 1614, was dedicated to St. James the Less (São Thiago Menor), the patron saint of Funchal. Near it is the church of Nossa Senhora do Soccorro (Pl. E, 2), the scene of a great procession on 1st May.

The chief streets of the W. Suburb, beyond the Ribeira de São João, flanked with pretty villas, are the Rua da Imperatriz Dona Maria (Pl. B, 2) and the Rua da Imperatriz Dona Amelia (Pl. A, B, 3), which last ends at the Redondo (‘round space’) near the Ribeiro Secco. On the S. side of the road are the Cemetery (Cemiterio das Angustias; Pl. B, 2) and the Casino Pavão (Pl. B, 3), with a beautiful garden extending to the abrupt coast, frequented by English and American visitors. By the sea runs the Caminho da Pontinha, leading to the Pontinha (p. 21) and the harbour-battery of Forte Ilheo (Pl. B, 3; ‘island fort’, Engl. Loo Rock).

Excursions. The Rack & Pinion Railway (p. 22), which at Levada station crosses the Levada de Santa Luzia and the beautiful hill-promenade of that name, connects Funchal with the *Monte (hotels, see p. 21), a village on the hill at the back of the town, with numerous villas nestling amidst beautiful groves of planes and oaks. On a spur of the hill, close to the terminus of the railway (extension projected), rises the pilgrimage-church of Nossa Senhora do Monte, known by English visitors as the ‘Mount Church’ (1962 ft.). It is the scene of the Novena, a great nine-days’ church-festival held in summer. The terrace of the church (68 steps) commands a glorious *View of Funchal, the coast as far as the Cabo Girão (p. 25), and the blue ocean enlivened by its passing ships. A little below the church is a sacred well.

A little to the E. of the Monte is the Curralinho (‘little curral’), or Curral dos Romeiros (‘pilgrims’ ravine’), overgrown with erica and vaccinium (p. 19). This miniature curral, a gorge of the Ribeira de João Gomes (p. 23), gives a very imperfect idea of the grandeur of the rocky ravines (p. 18) of Madeira.

Those who are pressed for time may descend to the town in 10–12 min. in a running sledge (p. 20), by the Caminho do Monte; but it is preferable to walk back (in 1½ hr.) by the level *Caminho das Tilias which we reach by turning to the left above the church. After about ¼ M., at the beautiful Quinta Machado (with a view-tower), we descend to the left by the steep Caminho dos Saltos (if desired, by running sledge ordered beforehand; 600 rs.). The route leads to the S.W., past the Quinta Olavo, the Levada de Santa Luzia (see above), and the Quinta do Deão, and then descends to the S.E. through the plane-avenue on the Ribeira de Santa Luzia (p. 23).

A *Side-path leads, above the Quinta Olavo, to the right, across the river-bed, to the church of São Roque (1139 ft.; view; bullock-car from Funchal 800 rs.), whence we may descend by the steep Caminho de São Roque to the Pico Fort and the Clara Nunnery (p. 23).

25The Rua da Imperatriz Dona Amelia (p. 24) is continued by the *Estrada Monumental, a road which affords delightful views. It leads from the Ponte Monumental (Pl. A, 3), a bridge across the Ribeiro Secco, past a number of sugar-cane plantations and vineyards, and, leaving the shore, proceeds to the S.W. above the ocean-cave of Forja and the rocky islets of Forja and Gorgolho. It then crosses the S. slope of the Pico da Ponta da Cruz (863 ft.; *View), an old crater, near the promontory of that name (p. 21), and skirts the beautiful, but not very safe bathing-beach of Praia Formosa. Farther to the W., in full view of the bold central range backing the Gran Curral (see below), we cross the lower bridge of the Ribeira dos Soccorridos and an old lava-stream to (5½ M.) Camara de Lobos (which may be reached by motor-cab, p. 22), a strikingly picturesque fishing-village (pop. 6200) at the E. base of the almost perpendicular *Cabo Girão, with a small natural harbour (Bahia). The best wine in the island is yielded by the slopes in the vicinity. Route to the Gran Curral by Jardim da Serra, see p. 26.

The Excursion to the Gran Curral, on horseback or by litter (p. 20), takes nearly a whole day. We start early and take provisions with us. From the W. suburb (p. 24) we follow the Rua das Maravilhas and the Caminho de Santo Antonio (Pl. A, 1, 2), between garden-walls and vineyards, to the N.W. to the finely situated village of (2 M.) Santo Antonio (985 ft.; bullock-car from Funchal 800 rs.). We descend thence to the N.W. into the side-valley of the Ribeira do Vasco Gil, with its pine-woods and rich pastures, and soon obtain a view towards the W., extending to the Cabo Girão (see above) and the Pico da Cruz (p. 26). We next ascend the steep side-valley of the Ribeira da Lapa to the (11 M.) Serrado Saddle (Eira do Serrado; about 2900 ft.), on the N.E. margin of the Pico Serrado (see below). From the top of the pass we have a grand view into the great and well-watered basin of the *Gran Curral, or Curral das Freiras (‘nuns’ valley’; once a pasture belonging to the convent of Santa Clara), enclosed by the lofty rocks of the central mountains. Far below us, above the rock-strewn bed of the Ribeira dos Soccorridos, we descry the village of Livramento (2018 ft.), with its little church and cypress-shaded churchyard.

Those who do not care to face the rugged descent to Livramento, and the steep clamber thence to the Bocca dos Namorados (p. 26), should now ascend the *Pico Serrado (3347 ft.; ‘sawn-off peak’), whence we survey the mountain-range from the Pico de Santo Antonio (5725 ft.) and Pico Cidrão (5551 ft.) to the Pico Ruivo (p. 27), the Pico Canario (5500 ft.), and the Pico Grande (p. 26).

Longer, but still grander, is the excursion to the W. margin of the Gran Curral. From the Estrada Monumental (see above) we turn 26to the N.W. past the Quinta Nazareh, nestling amidst araucarias, to the (2 M.) village of São Martinho (765 ft.; bullock-car from Funchal 800 rs.), situated among several old craters; we then cross, to the W., the ravine of the Ribeira dos Soccorridos by the upper bridge and mount in zigzags to the (7 M.) village of Estreito (1510 ft.). Our route now ascends to the N. to the (8½ M.) *Bocca dos Namorados (3445 ft.), with its beautiful chestnut-wood, where we enjoy a superb view of the Gran Curral, and skirts the W. margin of the Pico dos Bodes (3718 ft.) to the (10 M.) Cova da Cevada, a basin affording a similar view. We next follow the top of the hill to the N.W., between the Gran Curral and the E. side-valleys of the Ribeira Brava (see below), to (13 M.) the *Bocca dos Corregos (4466 ft.), a narrow ridge at the foot of the perpendicular rocks of the Pico Grande or Rocha Alta (5420 ft.). An interesting return-route is afforded by descending from the Cova da Cevada across Jardim da Serra (2523 ft.) and past the Pico da Cruz (3288 ft.) to Camara de Lobos (p. 25).

The Excursion to Rabaçal can, if time presses, be accomplished in one day. It is best to go by steamboat to Calheta (3 times weekly, in 1½–2 hrs.; or a small private steamer may be hired of Messrs. Blandy Bros., p. 22). The steamer calls first at Camara de Lobos (p. 25), then skirts the sombre rocky slopes of Cabo Girão and steers past Fajãa dos Padres, a village famed for its wine, to the village of Ribeira Brava (inn), where we obtain, through the curral of that name, a very striking glimpse of the Serra d’Agua (4610 ft.) and the Pico Grande (see above). We next pass the beach of Lugar de Baixo, formed by a landslip in 1803, the beautiful cape, Ponta do Sol, and the village of Magdalena, peeping out of vines and bananas amidst the grandest scenery of the S. coast.

At the village of Calheta (bad landing-place; no inn) we may find litters if desired (each man 800–1000 rs. per day), and we obtain provisions and torches (fachos, at 50 rs.). We now walk chiefly through pine-wood viâ Salão to the (1½ hr.) narrow and wet tunnel (about 650 yds. in length) of the lower Levada Nova do Rabaçal. At the N. end of it we obtain a very striking view of the highest part of the valley of the Ribeira da Janella, richly wooded with evergreen, oaks and laurels. A path over the rocks (which needs a steady head) connects this levada (or conduit) with the upper Levada Velha, constructed in 1836–60, and with (9½ M.) the engineers’ houses of Rabaçal (3750 ft.; adm., see p. 20; fee). A little to the N.E., on the so-called Balcão, we enjoy an excellent survey of the *Waterfall of the Risco, which plunges from a rock, 330 ft. high, into a ravine overgrown with climbing plants and ferns, and a little lower down provides the water for the old conduit. Crossing the viaduct of the latter, we skirt the new conduit, and in a few minutes reach another luxuriantly overgrown ravine, that of the *Vinte e Cinco Fontes, where no fewer than twenty-five waterfalls issue from a narrow basin.

From Rabaçal we may ascend towards the E. (with a guide) to the (2 hrs.) plateau of Paul da Serra (4656 ft.; ‘mountain swamp’), where fogs often prevail, and the two Tanquinhos Houses (about 4900 ft.; used by the engineers; poor quarters). Near them rise the Pico dos Tanquinhos (5260 ft.) and the *Pico Ruivo do Paul (5388 ft.), both of which afford grand views of the mountains.

Scarcely less repaying is the two days’ Excursion to Santa Anna on the N. coast, to which a third day may be added for the ascent of the Pico Ruivo or the Pico Areeiro. We start from the Campo da Barca at Funchal (Pl. D, 1) and follow the Estrada do Conde Carvalhal (Pl. E, 1), 27which ascends to the N.E. in windings to (3¾ M.) Palheiro do Ferreiro (1857 ft.; bullock-car from Funchal 1200 rs.), the finest quinta in the island, the property of Mr. John Blandy of Funchal (adm. on application). Farther on we follow the road, uphill and downhill, to (6 M.) Camacha (2369 ft.; no inn; bullock-car 2500 rs.), a well-to-do village of basket-makers in a charming wooded region, with many villas owned by English residents in Funchal. Beyond the Pico dos Iroses (p. 21) the road, now less attractive, crosses the gorges of the Ribeira de Porto Novo and Ribeira de Santa Cruz, and then, turning to the N., reaches (13 M.) Santo Antonio da Serra (2320 ft.), a poor village on a grassy tableland. We descend thence to the N.W. into a sequestered valley carpeted with flowers (Amaryllis Belladonna, etc.), where a rough path leads to the (15½ M.) Portella Pass (2021 ft.), which commands a superb *View of the mountains at the head of the Metade Valley (see below), of the N.E. coast from the Penha d’Aguia (see below) to the Ponta de São Lourenço (p. 20), and of the island of Porto Santo (p. 20). We now descend, at first by a zigzag path, through vineyards and sugar-cane plantations, to (18 M.) Porto da Cruz (no inn), a picturesque little seaport at the S.E. base of the abrupt *Penha d’Aguia (1949 ft.; ‘eagle-rock’), the most curiously shaped hill in the island. We next ascend the saddle to the S. of the Penha d’Aguia, noteworthy for its marvellously rich vegetation, and descend the ravine of the Ribeiro Frio (see below) to Fayal, a village not far from the charming Pescaria, a little bay to the N.W. of the Penha d’Aguia. The church-terrace here affords a grand survey of the valleys of the Ribeiro Frio, the Ribeiro da Metade, and the Ribeiro Secco (all mentioned below). From Fayal we then cross the Cortadas Pass, or Bocca do Cortado (1985 ft.), to (24 M.) Santa Anna (1408 ft.; Hot. Figueira, very fair; pop. 3200), a village well adapted for some stay, the capital of the Comarca de Santa Anna, the most fertile region in the island (sugar-cane, sweet potatoes, yams, etc.). From Santa Anna a rough mule-track, very indistinct at places, ascends past the curious basaltic Homem em Pé (‘man on foot’), and lastly over the saddle by the Encumeada Alta (5948 ft.), to the top of the Pico Ruivo (6060 ft.; p. 18), which commands a most imposing, but seldom very clear panorama of the central chain, part of the Gran Curral (p. 25), and the E. half of the island.

Turning back from Santa Anna, we first wend our way towards the S. to the Cova da Roda, where we again overlook the N.E. coast as far as the Portella Pass and the Porto da Cruz; we then cross the Ribeiro Secco and the (29½ M.) Cruzinhas Ridge, and descend into the valley of the *Ribeiro da Metade, a gorge vying in grandeur with the Gran Curral. A zigzag path (‘Quatorze Voltas’) ascends thence to the little venda (inn) of Cedro Gordo, and then crosses the Serra de Caramuja into the (33 M.) valley of the Ribeiro Frio, with its splendid groves of tilwood trees (see p. 19), laurel, and erica. Above the village of that name rises the Balcão, a rock of basalt (near the not easily accessible Levada do Furado), where we have a grand *View of the Metade Valley with mountain-background. Our route winds up the rocks of the Feiteiras (‘ferns’) and the Pouso Saddle, with its fine views, to the (34½ M.) Pouso or Poïzo Refuge (4603 ft.), situated on a dreary plateau. From the Pouso Refuge we may without difficulty climb the Pico Areeiro (5893 ft.; 1¼–1½ hr.), a famous point of view, but almost always capped with clouds. The bridle-path ascends past the Observatorio; we may then descend direct to the Vista dos Navios.

The next part of our route, from the Pouso Refuge to the Monte (p. 24), is uninteresting. From the Vista dos Navios (‘view of ships’), whence the bay of Funchal is visible, the track descends to the head of the valley of the Ribeira de João Gomes (p. 23), rounds the E. slope of the Pico do Arrebentão (3842 ft.), to which point a running sledge (p. 20) may be ordered from Funchal, and then descends rapidly, partly in windings, to the (39 M.) Monte. Thence to (41½ M.) Funchal, see p. 24.

Steamboat Lines. 1. Union Castle Line, fortnightly from London and Southampton, touching alternately at Las Palmas and Teneriffe; fares to either, 1st cl. 14–16, 2nd 9–11 gs. (return about ⅔ more). For summer tours, comp. p. 17.—2. Royal Mail Steam Packet Co., see p. 17.—3. Peninsular & Oriental Branch Service, from London monthly for Australia, calling at Las Palmas; 12l., return (tickets interchangeable with No. 5 from Teneriffe) 20l.—4. Bucknall Line, monthly from London to Teneriffe; 10l., return 18l.—5. Aberdeen (Thompson’s) Line, from London and Plymouth monthly for Australia, calling at Teneriffe; 13l., return (also valid for No. 3) 22l.—6. Aberdeen (Rennie’s) Line, from London, about once every 10 days, for S. and E. Africa, calling alternately at Las Palmas and Teneriffe; 10 or 8l., return 18 or 14l.—7. German East African Line, once every 3 weeks from Southampton for S. Africa, calling at Las Palmas and Teneriffe, 12l. 10s. or 7l. 10s.; no return-fares, but an abatement of 20 per cent is allowed on the fare back to Southampton, either by this line, by the Woermann, or by the Hamburg-American Line.—8. Woermann Line, monthly from Dover to Las Palmas, and monthly to Teneriffe; fares and abatement for return, same as No. 7.—9, 10. New Zealand Line and Shaw, Savill, & Albion, each monthly from London and Plymouth for Teneriffe, 14l. or 11l. 10s.; interchangeable return-ticket 22 or 17l.—11. Yeoward Bros. Line, from Liverpool, weekly pleasure cruises to Teneriffe, Grand Canary, and back (10–12 gs.), also single tickets (6–8 gs.).—12. Natal Line, from London fortnightly for S. Africa calling at Las Palmas, fare 8 gs., return 15l. 2s. 6d.—13. Federal, Houlder, & Shire Lines, see p. 17.—There are also steamers to the Canary Islands from Cadiz (see p. 58), Genoa (see p. 114), Naples, and Trieste (see p. 425).—It should be noted that almost all the British lines have recently raised their fares by ten per cent in consequence, it is said, of a rise in the price of coal. Inquiry as to this ‘surtax’ should therefore be made in every case.—The direct steamers perform the voyage (1707 M. from Southampton to Teneriffe) in 5–6 days; the coasting steamers (viâ Oporto, Lisbon, etc.; about 2250 M.) take much longer.

In addition to the above-mentioned steamers communication among the islands themselves is effected by the small cargo-boats of the Compañía de Vapores Correos Interinsulares Canarios which ply 9 times monthly between Teneriffe and Las Palmas in 6 hrs. (fare 20 or 15 pesetas); and by those of the Servicio de Pailebotes which ply weekly from Teneriffe to Las Palmas, and weekly to Santa Cruz de la Palma. Inquiry as to the sailings, which often vary, should be made on the spot. The Spanish cuisine on board these local boats is not very inviting.

The Canary Islands (Islas Canarias or Afortunadas, i.e. ‘fortunate islands’), the Makáron Nésoi or Insulae Fortunatae of antiquity, in 27° 30′ to 29° 26′ N. lat., and 13° 15′ to 18° 2′ W. long., lie off the coast of Mauretania, the nearest point being Cape Juby (p. 104). There are in all thirteen islands, forming a Spanish province of a total area of 3305 sq. M., with a population of 364,000. They consist of two groups. The E. group is composed of Lanzarote (rising to 2231 ft. above the sea), Fuerteventura (2789 ft.), and five smaller islands (Alegranza, Graciosa, etc.); to the W. group belong Gran Canaria (6400 ft.), Teneriffe (12,175 ft.; once the meridian used by the Spaniards and the Dutch), Gomera (4366 ft.), Palma (7737 ft.), and Hierro or Ferro (4643 ft.), the meridian used by France since the time of Louis XIII. (1634). Teneriffe, Gran Canaria, and sometimes Palma are the islands usually visited by tourists; the others chiefly attract botanists and geologists.

29The Canaries, supposed by some geographers to form part of the submerged continent of Atlantis, and by others to have been outlying spurs of the Atlas of Morocco (p. 93), have the same geological formation as Madeira (see pp. 17, 18, 19). ‘In Fuerteventura especially there occur masses of slag and lava, thrown up by countless eruptions, superimposed on the diabase formation, which is still visible in many places; and in Teneriffe we find phonolithic and trachytic rocks as well as the basaltic. Grand old craters (calderas) exist in Ferro, Gran Canaria, and most of all in Palma and Teneriffe. The enormous basin of the Cañadas in Teneriffe has been almost entirely filled up with later streams of lava and scoriæ, which have formed a distinct volcanic cone, the great Pico de Teide, 12,175 ft. in height.’ The last considerable eruptions were those of 1677 in Palma, of 1730–36 and 1824 in Lanzarote, and of 1705, 1706, 1796, and 1798 on the N.W. coast of Teneriffe, all of which caused great havoc. On the occasion of the eruption of 1909 in Teneriffe a large lava-stream, accompanied by the emission of vapour and stones from the central crater (see p. 41), burst forth near the foot of the Chahorra (p. 42) and advanced in a N.W. direction towards Santiago and El Tanque but came to rest before reaching these villages. There was little damage and no loss of human life. In the W. islands, which like Madeira rise very abruptly from the sea, the effects of erosion in the broad valleys, with their rich soil, as well as in the deep ravines (barrancos) of more recent origin, are specially noticeable.

The climate of the Canaries is remarkable for the striking contrasts prevailing between the E. and the W. groups on the one hand, and between the lower and the higher levels on the other. In the almost treeless islands of Lanzarote and Fuerteventura (62 M. to the N.W. of Cape Juby) years sometimes elapse without rainfall, while the dreaded tiempo del sur, the hot and extremely dry wind from the Sahara, covers them with dust and sand and often brings swarms of locusts. Even more disastrous for agriculture are the sandy dunes or coast-hills, thrown up by the currents off the African shores, the sand of which is driven inland by violent N. winds. The Gran Canaria, on the other hand, though by no means free from the locust pest, holds an intermediate position in point of climate and scenery between the more continental E. group of islands and the almost wholly oceanic W. group. Owing to the influence of the gulf-stream (p. 18) and the zone of high air-pressure prevalent in the W. Canaries in winter, the N. coast of Teneriffe and the islands of Gomera and Palma enjoy a remarkably mild and equable winter climate (the mean temperature of winter at Puerto Orotava being 60° Fahr. and the minimum 51°). 30In the region tempered by the trade-wind clouds, which gather at a height varying from 2300 to 5000 ft. above the sea, even the summer temperature is quite bearable; but on the high mountains, above the cloud-zone, the air is extremely dry, and the burning heat of the day is suddenly followed, as in the tropics, by a severe chill. The rainfall at Santa Cruz de Tenerife averages 12 inches, at Santa Cruz de la Palma 14 in., at Puerto Orotava 17 in., at Laguna 22 inches. The lowest snow-line is about 3300 ft.

The vegetation of the W. islands, the Eldorado of botanists, surpasses that of Madeira in variety, though not in luxuriance; but it is confined to the forest-zone in the region of the trade-wind clouds, and to the low ground irrigated with the aid of these clouds, where the soil consists of disintegrated diabase, tufa, and lava. On the other hand large tracts of land, especially in the Gran Canaria and on the S. and E. coasts of Teneriffe, are entirely destitute of vegetation, even in winter, while in summer the verdure of the cultivated land is often covered with a mantle of grey dust.

The Canary Islands, together with Madeira and the Azores, have been described as a region ‘where the tertiary flora, destroyed in Europe during the glacier epoch, has survived and developed, at least since the pliocene age, in insular solitude’. To the primæval African flora, the same as that of the original ‘diabasic Canaries’, belong in particular the stately Canary pine (Pinus canariensis), several species of laurel, such as the Laurus canariensis, the viñatigo (Persea indica), the aloe, the oleander-leaved Kleinia neriifolia, the cactus-like euphorbias, the balo (Plocama pendula), and the famous dragon-tree (Dracæna Draco). Besides the endemic trees and plants are others of very early origin, the seeds of which were originally brought over from India or America by the gulf-stream. During the Spanish period countless other plants, now cosmopolitan, were imported from America, fruit-trees from Europe, and shrubs from the Mediterranean, which last, favoured by the climate, develop into bushy trees. In the gardens, which are mostly enclosed by high walls, we are struck with the gorgeous wealth of bougainvilleas, gloxinias, poinsettias, bignonias, daturas, walbergias, passifloras, and many other flowers. In the lower and more tropical districts grow, side by side, bananas (plátanos), tomatoes, sugar-cane (caña de azúcar), yams (Span. ñame), tobacco, oranges and lemons, prickly-pear (Opuntia Tuna), coffee-plants, Peruvian pepper-trees (pimenteros), E. Indian bread-fruit, mango and camphor trees, eucalypti, cork-trees, tamarisks (tarajales), araucarias, magnolias, fig-trees, Japanese medlars, palms (about 25 varieties), notably the superb Canary palm (Phœnix canariensis or Jubæ Webb), the date-palm (p. 171), the royal palm (Oreodoxa regia), and, in Palma, the cocoa-nut palm. The vineyards, yielding the famous Malmsey (p. 19) and Vidueño wines, rise on the S. side of Teneriffe from 31the lower land to a height of 4070 ft. above the sea-level. In the upper cultivated regions the chief crops and fruits are wheat, potatoes, lupins, maize, chestnuts, walnuts, and, among other European fruits, peaches. On the rocky sides of the barrancos occur everywhere the aloe, the cactus-like Euphorbia canariensis (Span. cardón), the tabayba (Euphorbia Regis Jubæ), the orchilla lichen (Roccella tinctoria; woad), and Sempervivum (house-leek; some 60 varieties). At the bottom of the barrancos and in the cloud-region we encounter beautiful underwood, composed of evergreen myrtles and laurels, the strawberry-tree (Arbutus canariensis), ericas, stemless ferns, and a few climbing plants. Above the level of the trade-wind clouds we may still meet with the cistus, the Canary pine (up to 7050 ft. above the sea), the white Cytisus proliferus (Span. escobón), and the Adenocarpus frankenoides (Span. codeso), a kind of gorse. The Alpine retama (Spartocytisus supranubius; Span. retama blanca), a kind of broom, the commonest plant in the Cañadas, grows on the Peak up to a height of 10,300 ft.; but a few mosses and lichens alone reach the summit.

The fauna of the Canaries is remarkably poor. The characteristic bird is the canary (Serinus canariensis), which, as in Madeira, is of a greenish-grey colour, while the yellow canaries are imported. Mosquitoes, especially on the E. and S. coasts of the islands, fleas, and flies, including some whose bite is very unpleasant, abound in summer. The more important fish are cod, tunny, and sardines. Chief among domestic animals is the goat. Camels were introduced from the continent in 1405.

The islands, which were probably known to the Carthaginians and Greeks, were for a time occupied by king Juba II. (p. 244) with a view to the manufacture of purple dye from the juice of the Orchilla (see above). At that period the population consisted chiefly of the so-called Guanches (from guan, son, and Chenerfe, Teneriffe), whose culture down to the middle ages was still that of the flint age, while their inscriptions are Libyan in character. In 1402–96 the islands were conquered, first by the Normans, under Jean de Betancourt, at the instance of the kings of Castile, and later by the Spaniards, with the result that the Guanches, in spite of their heroic resistance, were largely exterminated or sold into slavery. A few survivors still lingered in their cave-dwellings, as at Atalaya (p. 46) and Artenara (p. 46), but others intermarried with Moorish immigrants (1405), and, in the Spanish period, with Norman, S. Spanish, and Irish settlers. Their language has been extinct since the 17th century. A few peculiarities of the present population, which somewhat resembles that of S. Spain and of the W. Indies, survive in the costume of the peasants, consisting of a white blanket (matta) wrapped round the body like a shepherd’s cloak, in their quaint old pottery, in the whistling language of 32Gomera, and in the national gofio, a kind of porridge of maize and wheat. The Grand Canary contains also several villages of negroes, descendants of the slaves on the sugar-plantations. Among the foreigners there are 2100 English, 600 French, and 600 Germans.

Santa Cruz de Tenerife and Puerto de la Luz near Las Palmas, the chief ports of the Canaries, as also Puerto Orotava (p. 39), Santa Cruz de la Palma, and others, all declared free harbours in 1852, are rising places and compete with Madeira in provisioning the ocean steamers. The trade is in British, Spanish, and German hands. The chief exports are bananas, tomatoes, early potatoes and other vegetables, and wine. The only industry of any importance is the embroidery and lace-making of Teneriffe (‘calado’ embroidery after Mexican patterns, rosette-work introduced from Paraguay, the rich Vilaflor lace, and embroidery in relief from Venetian and Irish models). The cochineal insect (living on the prickly-pear plant) was introduced from Honduras in 1826, and for many years its culture yielded large profits to the islanders, but the discovery of aniline dyes has well-nigh ruined this industry.

The best Season for a tour in the Canaries is from the beginning of March to the end of May. The best winter-quarters for invalids are to be found at Puerto Orotava or the more remote Güimar in Teneriffe, and at the Monte in the Grand Canary. Good quarters are obtainable also at Santa Cruz and Laguna in Teneriffe, and at Las Palmas in the Grand Canary, where most of the best hotels are in the English style, and English money circulates freely. The Spanish ‘fondas’, where the national currency is in vogue, fall short of modern requirements, while the country inns are mostly wretched taverns.

The chief public conveyances in the islands are, in Teneriffe, the electric tramway from Santa Cruz to Tacoronte, and in the Grand Canary the harbour tramway at Las Palmas; the only others are the dirty and often crowded coches públicos, the very expensive four-seated vehicles, and the tartanas or gigs. For mountain excursions horses or mules are used, the arriero or attendant serving as a guide.

Among numerous Books on the Canary Islands are Samler Brown’s guide (see p. 20); Whitford’s The Canary Islands as a Winter Resort (London, 1890; 7s. 6d.); Ward’s Vale of Orotava (London, 1903); C. Piazzi Smyth’s Teneriffe, an Astronomer’s Experiment (London, 1858); and Olivia Stone’s Tenerife and its Six Satellites (London, 1889).

Teneriffe, Span. Tenerife, the largest and most populous of the islands, 51½ M. long, 31 M. in breadth, and 781 sq. M. in area, contains about 140,000 inhab., mostly living on the N. coast. The island is composed of three mountain-ranges, chiefly of eruptive rock of a basaltic character, which have been welded together, probably since the miocene period, by great phonolithic and trachytic eruptions. These are the Anaga Mts. on the N.E., the Teno Mts. on the N.W., and the Adeje Mts. in the Bandas del Sur. Beyond the lofty plain of Laguna the Anaga range is prolonged to the Llano de la Maja by the massive Cumbre. In the centre of the island, from the enormous crater-ring of Las Cañadas, and high 33above the trade-wind clouds, towers the mighty Peak of Teneriffe, or Pico de Teide (12,175 ft.), visible for 100 M. around.

Approaching the island from the N., we first sight the sombre and wildly fissured Anaga Mts. (3406 ft.). We steer past the lighthouse (Faro; 811 ft.) a little to the N.W. of the Punta del Drago, whose light is visible for 40 M., then skirt the rocky E. coast, with the Punta de Anaga and Punta Antequera, and at length cast anchor in the open roads of the bay of Santa Cruz.

Santa Cruz de Tenerife.—Arrival. Passengers are conveyed in steam-launches (falúas) or in rowing-boats to the pier (Muelle; Pl. C, 2; landing or embarkation 1 peseta, each trunk 75 c.). The hotels, which send their porters on board, charge 3–5 shillings for the landing and conveyance to the hotel of each passenger and his luggage.

Hotels (often crowded in Feb., March, and April; mostly closed in summer). *Grand-Hôt. Quisisana (Pl. a; A, 1), on the hill-side (about 330 ft.) to the N.W. of the town, 1 M. from the pier, with fine views, R. from 3s., B. 2, déj. 3, D. 5, pens. 12½–15s. (but more in Feb. and March); *Pino de Oro (Pl. b; B, 1), to the N. of the town, ¾ M. from the pier, also finely situated, with a beautiful old park, pens. 8–12s.; Hot. Battenberg (Pl. c; A, 2), in the Paseo de Ronda, below Quisisana. pens. from 9s.—Camacho’s English Hotel (Pl. d; B, 2), Calle San Francisco 11, pens. 9–12s.; Hot. Orotaya (dépendance of the ‘Humboldt Kurhaus’ 34at Puerto Orotava, p. 39), Plaza de la Constitución, R. 3–6, B. 1, déj. 3, D. 4½, pens. 8–12½s.; Alexandra (Pl. e, B2; Olsen’s), Calle de Alfonso Treceno, pens. from 7½s., commended; Victoria (Pl. f, B 2; Holmström’s), Plaza de la Constitución, pens. 6–8s.; the last four rather plain; wine is always an extra. Table-water, Agua Firgas.

Cafés. Cuatro Naciones, Europa, and Belge, all in the Plaza de la Constitución.

Theatre. Teatro Isabel Segunda (Pl. B, 3), adjoining the market.—Bull Ring (Plaza de Toros; Pl. A, 2), in the Paseo de Ronda; ‘corridas’. mostly in May.—Music in the Plaza de la Constitución (Pl. B, C, 3) and the Plaza del Príncipe Alfonso (Pl. B, 2) alternately, thrice weekly, 8.30 to 10.30 p.m.

Shops. Teneriffe Handiwork (p. 32): Bazar Nivaria, Calle San Francisco 11; Bazar Taoro, corner of Calle San Francisco and Calle San José. Indian dealers offer defective goods (bargaining necessary).—Bookseller: Benítez, Calle San Francisco 6.—Tinned Foods: Quintero & Co., Calle San Francisco 2.—Photographic Materials: Lohr, Calle San Francisco 34; Espinosa, Plaza de la Constitución.

Bankers. Hamilton & Co., Calle de la Marina 15; Miller, Wolfson, & Co., same street, No. 1; Ahlers, same street, No. 31; Dehesa, Calle de Alfonso Treceno 64.

Steamboat Agents. Hamilton & Co. (see above), for the Peninsular & Oriental Co., Union Castle, Aberdeen (Rennie’s), Aberdeen (Thompson’s), Shaw, Savill, & Albion, New Zealand, Hamburg-American, White Star, and other lines; Teneriffe Coaling Co., for the Royal Mail Steam Packet Co.; Ahlers (see above), for the Hamburg & South American, German East African, and Woermann lines; Elder, Dempster, & Co., Calle de Alfonso Treceno 84, for the Belge Maritime du Congo, the Italian ‘La Veloce’, the Société de Transports Maritimes, and the Vapores Correos Interinsulares Canarios; Viuda é Hijos de Juan de la Roche, Calle de Alfonso Treceno 35, for the Compañía Trasatlántica; Miller, Wolfson, & Co. (see above), for the Servicio de Pailebotes.

Post & Telegraph Office (Correos y Telégrafos; Pl. 3, C, 2), Marina.

Physicians. Dr. Otto, Santa Rita, and others.—Chemist. Serra, Calle de Alfonso Treceno 7.—Baths (baños), Plaza de la Constitución.—Sea Baths (poor) at the pier; better at the Club Tinerfeño.

Cabs (‘coches de punta’; stands in the Plaza de la Constitución and the Plaza San Francisco): drive in the town, each pers. 50 c. (at night one-half more); per hour 1–2 pers. 2 pesetas, each addit. pers. 50 c.; to San Andrés 10 p., to Tegueste or Tacoronte 20, to Güimar 30, to Puerto Orotava 35, to Icod de los Vinos 60 p. (but bargain advisable).

Electric Tramway from the Alameda de la Marina (Pl. C, 2) through the Calle de Alfonso Treceno, viâ Cuesta and Laguna (1 hr.; fare 1 p. 30 c.; change carriages), to Tacoronte (1¾ hr.; fare 2 p. 60 c.). Cars for Laguna hourly from 7 a.m. to 8 p.m.; to Tacoronte every two hours till 5 p.m. The cars starting at 7 and 3, in connection with the diligence mentioned at p. 37, are usually crowded; motor-omnibus from Tacoronte to Puerto Orotava, see p. 37.

Consuls. British, J. E. Crocker; vice-consul, R. C. Griffiths.—United States, S. Berliner.

English Church in the upper part of the town; service in winter.

English Club (also for temporary members), adjoining the Governor’s Palace (p. 35).

Santa Cruz de Tenerife, a fortified seaport with 30,300 inhab., and the capital of the island since 1821 when it superseded Laguna, lies picturesquely in 28° 28′ N. lat. and 16° 15′ W. long., on a bay 3 M. broad between the Valle del Bufadero (p. 36) and 35the Barranco de Santos, below the spurs of the Anaga Mts. and the plateau of Laguna. Its beautiful patios, or courtyards, recall those of Seville and the flat roofs with their miradores, or belvederes, are reminiscent of Cadiz. The harbour is entered by 3500–4000 vessels per annum. At Regla, to the S. of the town, is a wireless telegraph station.

The town was heroically defended in 1797 against the British fleet under Nelson, who lost his arm here and had to retire after heavy loss. Near the old Citadel (now Cuartel Almeida; Pl. C, 1) stands the saluting battery. The old Castillo de San Cristóbal (Pl. C, 2, 3) now contains public offices.

From the Alameda de la Marina (Pl. C, 2), near the landing-place, we soon reach the Plaza de la Constitución (Pl. B, C, 3) to the S.W., with the Governor’s Palace (Gobierno Civil; Pl. 5, B 2; fine patio), the club-houses, and the cafés (p. 34). On the side next the sea rises the Triunfo de la Candelaria, a column in honour of the Virgin, the tutelary saint of the Canaries (p. 36), erected by the Spaniards as a memorial of their victories, with four Guanche kings as worshippers.

From the S. side of the Plaza de la Constitución the Calle de la Cruz Verde leads to the Iglesia de la Concepción (Pl. B, 3), the principal church in the town, consisting of a nave with double aisles, and situated close to the Barranco de Santos. It was founded early in the 16th cent., but was rebuilt after a fire in 1652. The tower, 181 ft. high, affords an extensive panorama.

Interior. The central chapel of the aisle on the left contains two flags captured from Nelson’s fleet (see above), of which the town is very proud. Here too, by the high-altar, is a stone cross originally erected outside by Al. Fernandez de Lugo (p. 37) in 1494 as a memorial of his victories. The pulpit, in Italian marble, is by Matias Rodriguez (18th cent.). The burial chapel of the artist (entered to the right of the high-altar) contains several pretty, but unfinished carvings in juniper-wood.

Near this is the Mercado (Pl. B, 3), a covered market for fruit and other commodities (worth visiting in the early morning).

From the N.W. angle of the Plaza de la Constitución the Calle San Francisco leads, a few yards farther on, to the church of San Francisco (Pl. 6, B, 2), built in 1680. The tower, inlaid with azulejos, or ornamental tiles, dates from 1777.

The old Franciscan monastery contains at present the Museum with fine art and anthropological collections (new building being erected near the Ayuntamiento, Pl. 1, B 2). Beyond it lies the Plaza del Príncipe Alfonso (Pl. B, 2).

The long Calle de Alfonso Treceno (Pl. B, A, 2), or Calle de Castillo, the main street, connects the Plaza de la Constitución with the pretty Plaza de Weyler (Pl. A, 2). The Paseo de los Coches and the Paseo de Ronda (Pl. A, B, 2, 1), a charming promenade bordered with pepper-trees, oleanders, and geraniums, lead thence to the N. through the villa quarter (Barrio de Ensanche).

36Excursions on the E. Coast (cabs, see p. 34). From the Paseo de Ronda we may go past the Pino de Oro Hotel (p. 33), or by the Hotel Quisisana, to the Conduit (llevada), skirt this and the right bank of the Barranco de Almeida, and thus reach the (1 hr.) tunnels, or we may continue our walk to the (3 hrs.) Aguere Springs.—Starting from the harbour the fine coast-road leads to the N.E. to the mouth of the Valle del Bufadero, which lies at the foot of the Anaga Mts. and is defended by a fort; from here we may go on, crossing some barrancos and skirting the rocks, to the dirty fishing-village of (5 M.) San Andrés (poor inn). Thence to the Cruz de Taganana, see p. 37.—Drive from Cuesta (see below) by the Carretera del Sur, a road shaded by tamarisks, to the S.W., along the slope of the bare sunburnt Cumbre (p. 33), up and down hill, through many barrancos, viâ (8 M.) San Isidro to (10½ M.) the so-called Halfway House (tavern; good wine); then through the deep Barranco Hondo, below the village of that name (1310 ft.), mostly through pine-woods (pinal). To our right, on the hill, lies the village of Igueste; to our left, on the Ladera de Candelaria, is the village of Candelaria, with the famous pilgrimage-church of the Virgen de la Candelaria. Lastly we cross a lava-stream from the Garganta de Güimar (p. 40) to (20 M.) Güimar (975 ft.; Hot. El Buen Retiro, with a fine garden, pens. 8–10s., English, good; Pens. Sunnyside, pens. 7s.), a village of 2000 inhab. in a sunny and sheltered site, in the Valle de Güimar. This fertile valley, 3¾ M. in breadth, bounded on the S. by the Ladera de Güimar, and on the W. by the ash-cone of the Arafo and the Monte de Izaña (7380 ft.), yields sugar-cane, oranges, and bananas. Luxuriant vegetation, including gigantic arbutus-trees, is seen also in the Barranco del Rio, to the W., above the village. From the S. end of the village we may reach (ca. 1½ hr.) two cave-dwellings of Guanches (p. 31), now empty, in the upland valley of the Barranco de Badajoz. Route over the Pedro Gil Pass to Orotava, see p. 40; ascent of the Peak of Teneriffe, see p. 41.

The Excursion to the Orotava Valley, the most charming spot in the island, takes 1-1½ days. We go by tramway (p. 34) to Tacoronte and drive thence to Puerto Orotava (see p. 37).

The shadeless and generally very dusty Carretera del Norte, the continuation of the Calle de Alfonso Treceno (p. 35) and Rambla de Pulido, crosses the Barranco de Santos and ascends the N.W. slope of the Plateau of Laguna in windings affording several fine views. The country is parched and scorched in spite of the numerous reservoirs (estanques), but corn-fields, tamarisks, fruit-trees, and relics of prickly-pear plantations are occasionally seen.

3 M. Cuesta (962 ft.; inn). The road to Güimar (see above) diverges here. Farther on, as we approach the cooler and better watered tableland, the vegetation becomes richer.

6¼ M. Laguna.—Hotel. Hot. Aguere & Continental, Carrera 57, pens. 10–12s., good.

Laguna or La Laguna (1740 ft.), once the capital of the Canaries (see p. 34), now a quiet little country-town (pop. 4900), is a favourite summer residence of the wealthier families of Santa Cruz. The old-fashioned houses, as at Villa Orotava, often have pretty, carved balconies; their unglazed windows, closed with shutters only, generally have a postígo, or flap, from which the inmates can view the street.

37The Cathedral, founded in 1513 and since 1908 in course of reconstruction, contains the tomb of Alonso Fernandez de Lugo, the conqueror of Teneriffe (1493–6). From the Calle Juan de Vera, diverging to the N., we follow the first side-street, the Calle de San Agustín, to the left, to the old Augustinian monastery, once the university, and now the Instituto de Canarias, which contains the Biblioteca Pública (26,000 vols.) and a small natural history collection. To the right, in the same street (No. 28), is the Palacio Episcopal, whose patio is richly adorned with flowers.

From the E. end of the street a few paces bring us to the Plaza de Adelantado, No. 1 in which is the old Palace of the Nava family.

From the S. side of the Plaza the Calle de Santo Domingo leads to the Priests’ Seminary (Seminario Conciliar), once a Dominican monastery. In the side-street opposite No. 30 the second door on the left leads into the garden of a Farm Building (finca) which contains a venerable dragon-tree (p. 30; fee).

The Iglesia de la Concepción, at the W. end of the town, contains a fine carved pulpit.

Excursions. A fine drive (12–15 p.) may be taken viâ (4½ M.) Tegueste and (5½ M.) Tejina, not far from the gloomy Barranco de las Palmas, to (10½ M.) the fishing-village of Bajamar, near the Punta del Hidalgo, a headland which affords a splendid survey of the precipitous N. coast of the island.—We may also hire a mule (6 p.) to take us to the laurel forests of Las Mercedes or La Mina. From Las Mercedes we may ascend past the Cruz el Carmen (about 2950 ft.) with its rich thicket of bushes (Erica scoparia), and past the Cruz de Afur (3405 ft.) to the (3½ hrs.) *Cruz de Taganana (3068 ft.), a splendid point for surveying the great Peak and the E. coast as far as Santa Cruz. We may then descend to the N., through a magnificent old *Forest of Canary laurel, viñatigo (p. 30), tree-heath (Erica arborea), and Pleiomeris, to the village of Taganana (689 ft.), near which the tall pinnacles of the Hombres de Taganana tower above the abrupt rocky coast. Or we may go on to the N.E. to the Cruz del Draguillo (2205 ft.) and descend thence to Igueste and San Andrés (p. 36) on the E. coast.—Another excursion from Laguna is to the (2 hrs.) ancient Forest of Agua García (p. 38) to the W.

Beyond Laguna the High Road, bordered at first with eucalypti, now crosses the plateau of the Rodeos to the Laguna Saddle (2008 ft.; watershed), and descends thence, affording fine *Views of the Cumbre (p. 33), the Peak itself, and its spurs, and passing the hills of Guamaza famed for their view of Tacoronte, to the Bandas del Norte, the far cooler and greener N. coast of the island.

12 M. Tacoronte (1762 ft.; Camacho’s Tacoronte Hotel, on the road above the town, pens. from 9s., good; pop. 4200), beautifully situated, is well adapted for a longer stay. Near it is produced the best wine in the island, and its orange-groves are famous.

From Tacoronte to Puerto Orotava a motor-omnibus of the Grand Hotel (p. 39) plies daily at noon in connection with the tramway mentioned at p. 34 (½ hr.; fare 12 s.); cab, ordered by telephone from Santa Cruz, in 2–2½ hrs., 20–25 p.; diligence (dirty) at 9 and 5, viâ Villa Orotava (3 hrs.; fare 3 p.), to Puerto Orotava (4 hrs.; 4 p.).

38Excursions. The road to the N.E. leads past the slopes of the Montaña del Picón, and through the Valle de Guerra, to (7 M.) Tejina (p. 37).—To the N. we may descend (1½ hr.) the precipitous rocks on the Coast (650–980 ft.), where the numerous caves are said to have once been inhabited by the Guanches (p. 31).—To the S.E. lies the (1½ hr.) primæval *Forest of Agua García (2588 ft.), the finest in Teneriffe, with its huge erica trees overgrown with creepers, its venerable laurels, and superb tree-ferns. Specially charming is a sequestered nook at the Madre d’Agua, the source of the water-conduit.

The Puerto Orotava road (conveyance, see p. 37), whence the route to Sauzal diverges to the right a little farther on, passes through wheat-fields, vineyards, and orchards, and is bordered with tamarisks, Canary palms, oleanders, aloes, and hedges of geranium. The steep slopes of the Cumbre are carefully cultivated in terraces up to the evergreen zone of the cloud-region. Fine view of the rock-bound coast and the blue ocean to the right.

15 M. Matanza (1585 ft.; ‘slaughter’), the scene of the last defeat of the Spanish invaders (1494), is now a village of 2000 inhabitants.

Beyond (17 M.) the little town of Victoria (1240 ft.), where the Guanches sustained a decisive defeat in 1494, the road forks. The new road, to the left, crosses the Barranco Hondo, a ravine about 330 ft. deep, by a viaduct (1909); the old road winds down into the Barranco Hondo. The two roads unite at the church of (20 M.) Santa Ursula, a palm-girt village (886 ft.; 2200 inhab.), on the crest of the Ladera de Santa Ursula, noted for its wine. About 1 hr. above it is the farm of La Florida (p. 40).

Beyond the village we obtain a glimpse, and then, at the Humboldt Corner, a full and glorious view of the **Orotava Valley, the Taoro Valley of the Guanches, famed at once for its harmonious outlines, for its superb colouring, and for its luxuriant vegetation. The valley, about 7 M. long by 6 M. wide, probably formed by subsidence, and descending rather rapidly to the sea in terraces, is sprinkled with smiling villages and countless white country-houses, embosomed among palms, pines, orange-trees, rosebushes, and climbing plants, which are abundantly watered by cuttings and conduits descending from the cloud-region. The tropical character of the landscape is enhanced by the extensive plantations of bananas. On the E. and W. the valley is flanked by the lava slopes, about 1000 ft. in height, of the Ladera de Santa Ursula and the Ladera de Tigaiga, and on the S. it is bounded by the Cumbre, with the ‘organ-pipes’ at the S.E. angle (p. 40). Far above its steep banks, but most often concealed by the trade-wind clouds, towers the majestic pyramid of the Peak. In the middle of the valley rise three eruptive cones of recent origin, the Montaña de la Horca (833 ft.; p. 39), the Montaña de Chaves (p. 42), and the Montaña de las Gañanias, which have sent forth lava-streams descending to the sea.

39Beyond the Barranco del Pinito the direct road to (24½ M.) Villa Orotava (p. 40) branches off to the left, and 1 M. farther on another road from that town joins ours. We are next carried through deep barrancos by means of cuttings, with their surprising variety of layers of slag and beds of lava, and at the Montaña de la Horca we come to a point where a new road diverges, to the left, for Realejo Bajo (p. 42) and Icod de los Vinos (p. 43). We descend to the right to Puerto Orotava, passing a private entrance to the Grand Hotel on our right.

27½ M. Puerto Orotava.—Hotels (often crowded in March and April). *Grand Hotel (or ‘Kurhaus Humboldt’; about 330 ft.), in a fine open situation on the N. slope of the Montaña de la Horca, with splendid views from the roof-terrace, beautiful grounds, and sea-baths on the Martianez beach (see below), R. from 4s., pens. 12s. 6d.–20s.; for guests ascending the Peak the hotel provides mule, guide, porter, accommodation in the Alta Vista hut, and food for two days for an inclusive sum of 30s. *Hot. Martianez, at the E. end of the town, not far from the sea, once a nobleman’s château, with a charming garden, pens. 12–15s.; Hot. Monopol, Plaza de la Iglesia, R. 2s. 6d.–3s., pens. 8–10s., good (all three under German management); Hot. Marquesa, Plaza de la Iglesia, pens. 5–6s., Spanish, well spoken of.

Post & Telegraph Office, Calle de Quintana, near the Plaza de la Iglesia.

Banker. T. M. Reid, Calle San Juan.—Photographer. Baeza, Calle de la Hoya.—Teneriffe Work. Franken, Calle de Santo Domingo 10.

Physicians. Dr. Lishman, Casa Montaña; Dr. Perez.—Chemist. R. Gomez, Calle de Santo Domingo.

Music in the Plaza de la Constitución.—Sortija Riding (tilting at the ring) in the grounds of the Grand Hotel.

Carriages. To Villa Orotava or Realejo 10 p.; to Tacoronte 20–25 p.; to Icod de los Vinos 25 p.—Omnibus to Villa Orotava twice daily, 1 p.—Mule (mulo) to Agua Mansa 10 p., to Güimar 12½, to the Peak 20 p.—Donkey (burro), 5 p. per day (according to bargain).—Guide to the Peak 20 p.

English Church (resident chaplain) in the grounds above the Grand Hotel.—English Cemetery and others to the W. of the town.

Puerto Orotava, officially called Puerto de la Cruz, the most popular invalid resort in the Canaries, a poor little seaport with 3100 inhab., lies on a delta formed by lava-streams. The Calle San Juan, the main street, in continuation of the highroad, descends, passing near the Plaza de la Constitución, with its garden-grounds, to the Pier (Muelle), whence the produce of the Orotava Valley is conveyed by small boats to the vessels in the roads.

In the Plaza de la Iglesia, to the E. of the Plaza de la Constitución, are the Iglesia de la Peña de Santa Francisca, with its new tower, and the Casas Consistoriales or town-hall, with its old-fashioned wooden balcony.—Mr. R. Gomez, the chemist (see above), possesses a small Guanche Museum (adm. 1 p.).

To the E. of the town a palm-avenue leads along the Barranco de Martianez to the bathing beach (Playa de Martianez). Beyond the ravine, about halfway up the abrupt coast-hill, is the spring 40called Fuente de Martianez.—A zigzag path ascends to the Sitio de la Paz (492 ft.), once occupied by Alex. von Humboldt (1814), and now containing several memorials of that savant. A cypress-avenue is the sole relic of the old garden (fee).—A beautiful walk may be taken to the Barranco de las Arenas, 1½ hr. to the E.

To the S. the Camino del Puerto (see below) leads past the Observatorio (belonging to the nautical observatory of Hamburg) to the *Botanic Garden (Jardín Botánico or de Aclimatación), laid out in 1788, which, though sadly neglected, contains exquisite flowers, superb magnolias, and fine specimens of royal, Canary, and exotic palms, dragon-trees (p. 30), and fig-trees (Ficus imperialis and Ficus nitida; p. 233).

A dusty road (donkey 3 p.) leads from the cemetery at the W. end of the town to the Finca los Frailes of Dr. Perez, with its splendid avenue of palms. The road ends at the Risco do Burgado, with its fissured lava cliffs, washed by huge breakers.

Pleasant ride (4–5 hrs.; donkey 4, horse 8 p.) by Los Frailes to Realejo Bajo and Realejo Alto (p. 42), returning, above the three eruptive cones (p. 38), viâ Cruz Santa (p. 41), Perdoma, and Villa Orotava.

From Puerto Orotava the dusty roads mentioned on p. 39, besides the Camino del Puerto, the old bridle-path, lead through a garden-like region in 1¼–1½ hr. to Villa Orotava (1080–1480 ft.; Hot. Suizo, pens. 6–8 p., good; Hot. Victoria, same charges; 3600 inhab.) the Arautápala of the Guanches, now the capital of the Orotava Valley. The antiquated little town, which has fallen into great poverty since the decline of the cochineal culture (p. 32), occupies almost the loveliest site in the whole island.

At the E. entrance is the Plaza de San Agustín, with the old Iglesia de San Agustín and a band-stand, whence we have a fine view of Puerto Orotava and the sea. Near it is the Villa of Marquesa Quinta, now owned by Dr. Perez (p. 39), with its beautiful park; on the highest terrace is a marble mausoleum (adm. to both 1 p.).

In the quarter above the Iglesia de la Concepción are several châteaux of the noblesse. On the S.W. side of the town, near the monastery of San Francisco (now a hospital), are two old mansions with very handsome carved balconies (comp. p. 36).

An excursion, attractive in clear weather only, may be made to the farm of Aqua Mansa (3491 ft.), in the S.E. angle of the Orotava Valley, within the cloud-region, 1½ hr. to the S.E. of Villa Orotava. Steep bridle-path; mule, see p. 39. The chestnut and erica woods are succeeded in the Barranco de la Arena by primæval *Pine Forest, near which is an abrupt slope with huge columns of basalt, known as the Organos (organ-pipes). From Agua Mansa we may either ride back by the W. margin of the Ladera de Santa Ursula (p. 38) and the farm of La Florida, or we may cross the Pedro Gil Pass (6522 ft.; the top of the Cumbre, to the S.W., commands a striking view of the E. coast and the Grand Canary) to the grand basin of the *Garganta de Güimar, and along the lava-stream of 1705, past Arafo, to (6–7 hrs.) Güimar (p. 36).

41The Ascent of the Peak of Teneriffe, which is fatiguing but without danger, takes two days and should be made in the warmer season (hotel arrangement for the ascent, see p. 39; tariffs for mule and guide, also see p. 39). The excursion affords an admirable insight into the geological structure of the island, while the view in clear weather is of unparallelled grandeur. The equipment most needed consists of riding leggings, an Alpenstock (lanza), stout boots, a lantern, rugs, drinking-water, abundant provisions, grey spectacles or goggles, and lanoline for the face. In the Cañadas (see below) the guides and mule-drivers often refuse their services when snow is falling. The shortest way to the peak is by the bridle-path from Puerto Orotava, viâ Cruz Santa, to the Portillo. In about 10 hrs. we reach the refuge-hut of Alta Vista, the keys of which are brought by the guide. We may afterwards descend to Icod Alto and Realejo Alto (p. 42; about 8 hrs.), where a vehicle may be ordered to meet us; or we may descend viâ the Llano de la Maja to Güimar (p. 36; 10 hrs.).

Our route ascends through every climatic zone in the world. From the tropical region of Puerto Orotava we pass, beyond Cruz Santa (1500 ft.), through the Taoro Basin into the temperate zone, the region of maize and cereals, where numerous cottages are shaded by chestnut-trees. Leaving behind the thickets of Monte Verde and following the Camino del Brezal with its view of the sombre Ladera de Tigaiga (p. 38), we mount, beyond the cloud-region, a wilderness of lava. A most striking change of scenery is observed at the Portillo (6611 ft.), lying a little to the E. of the Fortaleza (p. 42), and forming the entrance to the *Montañas de las Cañadas, the lowest and oldest crater. This enormous basin, 6–12½ M. in diameter, girdles the base of the Peak with its ring-shaped wall of lava rocks (650–1650 ft. high), the continuity of which has, however, been broken by later eruptions. The summit of the Peak is rarely free from snow except in August and September. We now ride across the Cañadas Plateau (midday-rest; view of the Peak), a desolate expanse of pumice-stone, overgrown with scanty Retama (p. 31), and in summer enlivened by a few goats. Here and there it is intersected by huge lava-streams and covered with isolated eruptive cones. The sky is generally cloudless, the sun intensely hot, and the air marvellously clear. At the foot of the lower portion of the Peak, not far from the spur of Los Rastrojos (7562 ft.), begins the toilsome ascent over the grey-white pumice-stone of the Montaña Blanca (8691 ft.) to the saddle adjoining the pyramid-like peak. The zigzag path now mounts the slopes of slag, inhabited by rabbits, mostly between streams of black obsidian, to the Lomo Tiezo. In the midst of the expanse of slag shady resting-places are formed here and there by great blocks of lava, such as the Estancia de los Ingleses (9711 ft.) and the Estancia de los Alemanes (10,018 ft.). Below the spot where the lava-streams unite to form the sickle-shaped Piedras Negras stands the refuge-hut of Alta Vista (10,728 ft.; accommodation for 15 pers. at the utmost, at 5 p. each). From this point we already enjoy, in clear weather, an imposing view of the E. half of the island, of the Grand Canary (p. 43), and even of Fuerteventura and Lanzarote (p. 28), a glorious spectacle more particularly at sunset, when the Peak gradually casts its shadow over the sea as far as the Grand Canary.

Next morning we start early. The winding path ascends a field of lava to (1 hr.) the Rambleta (11,713 ft.), the central crater-basin, out of which towers the trachytic cone, covered with pumice-stone, of the Pitón or Pan de Azúcar (‘sugar-loaf’), the summit of the **Peak of Teneriffe, or Pico de Teide (12,175 ft.; ‘peak of hell’). In ½¾ hr. we climb its slopes to the Corona, the very narrow margin of the Caldera, the insignificant highest crater (77 by 110 yds.; 130 ft. in depth), which was still active in the middle ages, but now emits a few jets of steam only from its fumaroles (comp. p. 29). When the horizon is perfectly clear, the eye ranges over an area of some 2200 sq. M.; floating, as it were, in the midst of the boundless expanse of the ocean, the blue of which seems to blend on the horizon with the blue of the sky, we can sometimes see the whole 42of the Canaries, from Palma, Hierro, and Gomera on the W. to the far-distant E. group. To the W. we look down upon the grand crater of the Pico Viejo (see below), the Chahorra, and the Talus de Bilma, studded with countless coloured cinder-cones. We survey, from the Fortaleza on the N.E. to the Morro del Cedro on the S.W., the ring-shaped wall of the Cañadas, with the pumice-stone wilderness of the Cañadas Plateau and the coloured lava-masses of the Azulejos (see below). The older serrated mountains in the island (pp. 32, 33) and the green basins of Orotava and Icod are generally shrouded by a sea of clouds of dazzling whiteness.

On the Descent, which experts may shorten at first by glissading down the cinder-slopes, we may visit the Cueva del Hielo (11,044 ft.), a fine lava cavern a little below the Rambleta, always filled with ice and water. From the Montaña Blanca (p. 41) we then turn to the N. to the Fortaleza (8300 ft.), the only considerable height on the N. margin of the Cañadas wall. The bridle-path, very steep and rough, next descends to the Corona de Icod (about 2900 ft.), the highest point of the Ladera de Tigaiga (p. 38), falling away to the E. in a huge rocky slope, and again offering a glorious view of the Vale of Orotava. From Icod Alto (1716 ft.) we may descend rapidly to the N.E. to Realejo Alto (see below), or we may wend our way due W. to Icod de los Vinos (p. 43).

Round the Cañadas is an interesting but toilsome excursion. From the Portillo (p. 41) we strike to the S. across the Cañadas Plateau to the rocks of the Risco Verde (7130 ft.), on the E. margin of the encircling wall, where a lava cavern serves for night-quarters. The path then leads to the S.W., skirting the basaltic rock of Las Pilas (7228 ft.), passing below the Espigón Hill, and along the wildly fissured and variegated Roques de la Grieta (7211 ft.), where a new Observatorio has been built near a spring (1909). This brings us to the Guajara Hill (8908 ft.), near the Guajara Pass (see below). Our route, now running to the W., crosses the so-called Azulejos (9400 ft.), a lava wall consisting partly of blue-green rock, and at the Boca de Tauze (7021 ft.) surmounts the huge lava-streams (of 1798 and 1909, comp. p. 29) of the Chahorra (7743 ft.) and the Pico Viejo (10,289 ft.). To the left rises the Morro del Cedro (8000 ft.), the highest hill on the W. side of the crater-wall. From the N.W. side of the Cañadas, whose girdle-wall was here almost entirely destroyed by the numerous cones thrown up in 1705 and 1706, we next reach the *Pinal de la Guancha, the finest pine-forest in the island. Thence we traverse the huge lava slopes of the Lomo de Vega (5168 ft.) to the basin of Icod de los Vinos (p. 43).

A somewhat shorter path from the Portillo, crossing the saddle between the Rastrojos and the Montaña Blanca (p. 41), leads to the S.W., in 3½ hrs., direct to the Guajara Pass (7992 ft.), which gives access to the village of Vilaflor (4842 ft.; inn), finely situated on the S. slope of the girdle-wall of the Cañadas amid pine-woods and luxuriant orchards, and noted for the ‘Vilaflor embroidery’ (p. 32). From the brow of the Llano de los Quemados we overlook the late-volcanic terraces of the Bandas del Sur, which are bare and thinly peopled. A fine excursion from Vilaflor is made viâ Escalona (3750 ft.) and Arona (2198 ft.), with views, towards the W., of the islands of Gomera and Hierro, to the little town of Adeje (935 ft.), situated behind the Adeje Mts. (p. 32; Roque del Carasco, etc.), the ancient Guanche capital of the island. Near it is the *Barranco del Infierno, the upper half of which is the grandest ravine in Teneriffe.

The *High Road, which at the foot of the Montaña de Chaves (p. 38) sends off a by-road to the village of Realejo Alto (1158 ft.), nears the sea at the rocky headland of Rambla de Castro.

At (27½ M. from Santa Cruz) Realejo Bajo (883 ft.) the Ladera de Tigaiga (p. 38) comes close down to the coast. The next stretch of road, as far as (32½ M.) San Juan de la Rambla 43(2000 inhab.), situated on a recent lava-stream, is particularly fine. It leads past abrupt rocks and through sombre gorges (Barranco de la Torre, Barranco Ruiz), and often through banana plantations and vineyards extending to the cliffs of the coast.

37½ M. Icod de los Vinos (755 ft.; Hot. Inglés, poor), a small town with 2000 inhab., is the chief place in the *Vale of Icod, which is bounded by the Ladera de Tigaiga, the Lomo de Vega, and the Pinal de la Guancha (p. 42), rivalling the Vale of Orotava in fertility and beauty. We enjoy here a magnificent *View of the Peak, towering almost immediately above the coast, between the Fortaleza and the Pico Viejo (p. 42). A garden near the Iglesia Parroquial contains an old dragon-tree. The Guanches’ Cave below the village is not worth visiting (fee 2 p.).

A pleasant way back to the Vale of Orotava is the bridle-path viâ Guancha, Icod Alto (p. 42), and Realejo Alto (p. 42).

The Gran Canaria or ‘Grand Canary‘, the second-largest island in the archipelago, nearly circular in form, with 127,000 inhab. in an area of 626 sq. M., lies about 66 M. to the S.E. of Teneriffe. The best-watered and most fertile parts are the environs of Las Palmas, the capital, and the N. coast. The barren brown mountains in the interior, with their sharp outlines, culminate in the Pico de las Nieves (6400 ft.). On every side deep barrancos or ravines descend to the coast, conspicuous among which, as we near the island from Teneriffe, is the Barranco de Tejeda.

The Isleta (748 ft.), the N.E. promontory of Gran Canaria, once a separate island, has gradually been united to the greater island by deposits of sea-sand which form the Istmo de Guanarteme. The Lighthouse (Faro) on the Punta Morro de la Vieja, on the N. side of the Isleta, is the chief landmark for steamers coming from Teneriffe or the N.

Beyond the Isleta, in the Confital Bay opening to the W., lies Puerto de la Luz (Hot. Rayo, with café, pens. 6 p., a very fair Spanish inn; comp. Plan, p. 46), a rapidly rising place, the chief port of Gran Canaria, and the best harbour in the islands. The entrance to it is protected by a breakwater (rompeolas), about 1100 yds. long, and by the Muelle (mole) de Santa Catalina (landing or embarking in steam-launches or small boats, 1 p., trunk 50 c.). The hotel-agents from Las Palmas come on board.

A dusty Road leads from Puerto de la Luz, passing many new buildings, the mineral baths of Fuente de Santa Catalina (near which is the English Church, p. 45), and the large hotels named at p. 44, to (4½ M.) Las Palmas. (Tramway in about 40 min.; fares 20–40 c.; tartana, a kind of dog-cart, 2, with luggage 3–4 p.)

44Las Palmas.—Hotels. Santa Catalina, pens. 10–16s., and Métropole, pens. 10–12s., both on the road to the harbour (comp. Plan, p. 46), ca. ¾ M. to the N. of the town, with beautiful gardens towards the sea, tennis-courts, etc.; both closed in summer.—In the town: Hôt. Continental (Pl. c; B, 2), with American bar and pretty garden, pens, from 8s. 6d., and Quiney’s English Hotel (Pl. d; B, 2), R. 4–6, B. 1, D. 5, pens. 10–15s., both in the Plaza de San Bernardo (p. 45), in a quiet and pleasant situation.—Catalan Hotel (Pl. e; B, 3), Calle de los Remedios 8, pens. 6 p., and Cuatro Naciones (Pl. f; B, 4), Alameda de Colón, with café, pens. 6 p., both quite Spanish.—The best table-water is Agua Firgas.

Post Office (Correos; Pl. 1, B 4), Plaza de Santa Ana (best hours 12–4). Telegraph Office (Telégrafo; Pl. 5, A, 2), Calle de Domingo J. Navarro 36.

45Theatre (Pl. C, 3), at the month of the Barranco Guiniguada.—Music in the Alameda de Colón.

Bankers. Miller & Co., Muelle de Santa Catalina, in Puerto de la Luz; Blandy Bros. & Co., Calle Mayor de Triana 68, and others.

Steamboat Agents. Miller & Co. (see above), for the Union Castle, the Austro-Americana, Aberdeen (Rennie’s), Bucknall, and other lines; Grand Canary Coaling Co., for the Peninsular & Oriental Co. and the Royal Mail Steam Packet Co.; Behrens, at Puerto de la Luz, to the N. of the Muelle de Santa Catalina, for the German East African, Woermann, and Hamburg-American Lines; Elder, Dempster, & Co., Calle Mayor de Triana 93, for the Vapores Correos Interinsulares Canarios; M. Curbelo & Co., Calle de Muro, for the Compañía Trasatlántica.

Carriages (stands in the Plaza de Cairasco, in the Plaza de San Bernardo, and near the theatre). Drive in the town for 1–3 pers. 1½p., for 4 pers. 2 p.; per hour 2½ (or for a tartana or dog-cart 2) p.; to Puerto de la Luz 5 (tartana 2) p.; to the Monte, Telde, or Arucas 15 (tartana 12½) p.; to Atalaya, San Mateo, or Teror 20 (tartana 15) p.

English Church, near the Hôt. Métropole, on the road to Puerto de la Luz (comp. Plan, p. 46).—English Club at Puerto de la Luz.

Las Palmas, a town of 28,600 inhab., of a S. Spanish type like Santa Cruz (comp. p. 35), the seat of the bishop of Gran Canaria, situated in 28° 6′ N. lat. and 15° 12′ W. long., is the busiest and wealthiest town in the whole archipelago. The houses of the well-to-do townspeople, built of pale-grey tufa or blue lava-basalt, often enclose beautiful patios filled with plants, which are watered by means of pipes conducted from the roofs. On the hills at the back of the town, which have been fortified since the Spanish and American war, are sprinkled many gaily painted country-houses.

Las Palmas is divided into two parts (barrios) by the Barranco de Guiniguada: on the N. Triana, and on the S. Vegueta.

The main street of Triana, with its numerous shops, in line with the road from Puerto de la Luz, is called Calle Mayor de Triana (Pl. B, C, 1–3). Beyond the Baranquillo de Mata it intersects the Plaza San Telmo (Pl. B, 1), in which rises the Gobierno Militar (Pl. 2; B, 1).

The Paseo de Bravo Murillo (Pl. B, A, 1) ascends the gorge to the right to the Carretera del Norte (p. 47). On the left is the Harbour (Pl. B, C, 1), with the pier (Muelle), where the sea-breezes may be enjoyed in hot weather.

From the Calle Mayor de Triana, farther on, the Calle Constantino diverges to the right to the Plaza de San Bernardo (Pl. A, B, 2), a square planted with Indian laurels. Near the S. end of the street the Calle del General Bravo leads to the Alameda de Colón (Pl. B, 3), which is embellished with a bust of Columbus and fine royal and date palms (p. 30). In this square rise the Iglesia de San Francisco (1689) and the Casino.

The central point of Vegueta is the Plaza de Santa Ana (Pl. B, 4), where the guides lie in wait for strangers. The bronze dogs at the lower end of the plaza, as well as those in the arms of the town, recall the tradition that Juba II. (p. 31) carried away some dogs (canes) from the island, and that their name is derived thence.

46The Cathedral (Pl. B, C, 4; San Christóbal), founded in 1497 and restored in 1781, with its heavy façade flanked with towers 184 ft. high, contains, in the first chapel of the left aisle, the tombstone of the native poet Bart. Cairasco de Figueroa (1540–1610), and in the crypt the tomb of Viera y Clavijo (1731–1802), the historian of the Canaries.

The Town Hall (Palacio Municipal; Pl. B, 4), built in 1842, contains, on the third floor, the Museo Canario, consisting of natural history collections and of curiosities from the Guanche caverns of the Isleta (p. 43) and other places (implements, weapons, and tools in basalt, obsidian, horn, wood, and clay, leather-work, and mummies). Adm. free, daily 11–3.

For a prolonged stay the Monte is preferable to Las Palmas. It is reached by the Carretera del Centro (comp. Pl. A, 5), the best road in the island. Ascending from the suburb of San Roque, and soon affording splendid views, the road at first follows the Barranco de Guiniguada (p. 45), and then winds up the slopes of the Pico del Viento (820 ft.).

3¾ M. Tafira (1230 ft.; Hotel Victoria; James’s Boarding House), the first village on the *Monte, a colony of villas and a favourite winter resort of the English.

8 M. Santa Brígida (1572 ft.; Hot. Santa Brígida, in a fine open situation with a beautiful park, pens. from 10s. 6d.; Quiney’s Bella Vista, ½ M. below the other, pens. 8–10s.), a finely situated village with 500 inhabitants.

The road, still unfinished, goes on to Telde (p. 47), passing the curious cave-village of Atalaya (1720 ft.), which rises in terraces on the hill-side. The tufa walls of the cave-dwellings are hung with mats. The industry of the place is the manufacture of pottery, notably the porous water-jars so common in N. Africa.

The ascent of the *Pico de Vandama (1838 ft.) may be made from Atalaya or direct from Santa Brígida (there and back 2 hrs.; mule 3 p.). This hill, overgrown with pines and tree-like broom, overlooks the grand mountain landscape of the E. coast. Very striking is the view of the *Caldera de Vandama, a huge crater-basin of about 550 yds. in diameter and 683 ft. in depth. Its floor is planted with vines and cereals, and it is worth while to ride down into it.

The Carretera del Centro leads, beyond the bifurcation for Atalaya, to (13 M.) the little town of San Mateo (2575 ft.; fair inn), superbly situated among the mountains. Rough mule-tracks lead thence to the Pico de las Nieves (6400 ft.), to the village of Tejeda (3160 ft.) in the *Barranco de Tejeda (p. 43), and to the cave-village of Artenara.

Scarcely less attractive than the Monte road is the *Carretera del Sur, which leads from Las Palmas, at first passing the cemeteries, then skirting the rocks of the E. coast, and at length turning inland, piercing the lava-rock by a tunnel, to Ginámar and (8 M.) Telde (394 ft.; inn; pop. 4000), a picturesque little town amidst beautiful orange-groves.

47The Carretera del Norte, crossing the Barranco de San Lorenzo and the road from Puerto de la Luz (p. 43) at Tamaraceite, and farther on, beyond a long tunnel, the Barranco de Tenoya above the village of that name, leads to (10 M.) Arucas (1017 ft.; two inns), an industrial little town of 2900 inhab., at the foot of the Montaña de Arucas, a hill affording fine views. The sugar-cane is cultivated in the vicinity.

A by-road diverges from this carretera, beyond the Barranco de San Lorenzo, to (12½ M.) Teror (1936 ft.; dirty inn), a little town with the famous pilgrimage-church of the Virgen del Pino (16th cent.).

The island of Palma, or La Palma, in the extreme N.W. of the archipelago, 28½ M. long and 17 M. broad, lying about 16½ M. to the W. of Teneriffe, is remarkable for its fine scenery and superb forests, but is as yet rarely visited by tourists. The famous Caldera, the largest and deepest of all the crater-basins in the islands, opens towards the W. in the huge Barranco de las Angustias, while many smaller gorges render the N. coast in particular very difficult of access. The whole of the S. part of the island is of recent volcanic origin and therefore poorly watered. The population (42,000, in an area of 280 sq. M.) is confined to the S.E. margin of the island and the middle of the W. slopes Many of the natives emigrate, especially to Cuba.

Starting from Santa Cruz de Tenerife (p. 33) the steamer rounds the Anaga Mts., with the lighthouse already named (p. 33), and steers to the W. from the Punta del Hidalgo (p. 37) to Palma. The lighthouse on the Punta de Teno (23 ft.), the N.W. point of Teneriffe, remains visible for some time. The bold coast of Palma presents a grand appearance as we approach.

Santa Cruz de la Palma.—Hotels. Hot. Miramar; Hot. Español; Hot. Internacional; Fonda Verbena, pens. 4–5 p.—Carriage to Los Llanos 45 p. (also motor-omnibus).—Mule per day 5–6, to Los Llanos 7½ p.

Santa Cruz de la Palma, the only considerable port (5700 inhab.) in the island, lies on the E. coast, on an open bay which is much exposed to sand-drifts. The houses rise in terraces on the steep hill-side, overtopped by tall Canary palms. The chief export is tobacco, which is little inferior to that of Havana. Cigar-factory of J. Cabrera Martín.

The main street, in which rises the Town Hall (Ayuntamiento) of 1563, leads to a picturesque triangular plaza with the church of San Salvador and several handsome houses. Close by is the small Museum (Museo de Historia Natural y Etnográfico). A beautiful palm-avenue leads through the upper part of the town.

Excursions. To the N.W. we may ascend through the Barranco de la Madera, with its cave-dwellings (Cuevas de los Guanches) to the loftily situated pilgrimage-church of the Virgen de las Nieves (16th cent.); 48thence either to the Montaña de Tagoje (about 3300 ft.; with grand view of the E. coast, of Gomera and Teneriffe), or to the Pico del Cedro (7471 ft.) on the E. margin of the Caldera (see below), round which we may ride to the Roque de los Muchachos (7693 ft.) on the N. side.—To the S.W., following the old bridle-path which cuts off the windings of the road, we may walk or ride to (1 hr.) Buena Vista (about 660 ft.), whence a rough mule-track ascends to the (2 hrs.) Cumbre Nueva (4593 ft.), the chief mountain-pass in the island, where we have a grand *View of the abrupt rocks and the pine-woods of the central chain, of the fertile plains to the W., and of the distant Peak of Teneriffe. Then we proceed through pine-forest, past the venerable ‘Pino de la Virgen’, to El Paso (2060 ft.; inn), whence we may ascend the Cumbrecita (4445 ft.) and the Idafe, the sacred mount of the Guanches, on the S. margin of the Caldera. Finally we descend to the (3 hrs.) little town of Los Llanos (1000 ft.; poor inn, bargaining advisable). From Los Llanos it takes a day (7–8 hrs., there and back) to visit the *Caldera, a vast basin, nearly 5900 ft. deep and 3–4½ M. in diameter, situated in the heart of the island and rarely quite cloudless. A tedious ride up the Barranco de las Angustias brings us to the farm-building of Tenera (3642 ft.), whence we look down on the floor of the Caldera, which is partly clothed with pines. The best way to return from Los Llanos to Santa Cruz is to drive (34½ M.) by the road passing Las Manchas, Fuencaliente (2297 ft.), Mazo (1312 ft.), and Breña Baja; or we may ride across the Cumbre Vieja (6660 ft.), the pass between Las Manchas and the Barranco Aduares.

Andalusia, the southmost region of Spain, is geologically of somewhat recent origin. In the tertiary period the sea still washed the southern shores of the Iberian tableland, until a pressure acting in a direction from S. to N. gradually lifted up a new coast in long parallel folds, while the Mediterranean forced a new passage to the ocean through the Straits of Gibraltar (comp. p. xxix). Latest of all appeared the Guadalquivir Bay, the highest point of whose coast scarcely rises 490 ft. above the sea. The coast-hills, which have their counterpart in the Rîf Mts. on the African side (p. 93), stretch in the main from E. to W., descending abruptly to the sea. Transverse fissures, in which volcanic activity is still indicated by frequent earthquakes, divide the coast into several different chains, which culminate in the Sierra Nevada (11,421 ft.; ‘snow-mountain’), the highest peak in Spain. The W. chain (Serranía de Ronda) trends round to the N. In contrast to the Andalucía Alta, the folded region facing the Mediterranean, the Andalucía Baja, the basin of the Guadalquivir, opens towards the Atlantic. 50The Guadalquivir (Arabic Wâd al-Kebîr, ‘the great river’), the Bætis of antiquity, rises indeed in the Sierra de Cazorla, apart from the coast-mountains, but receives its more copious affluents, particularly the Guadiana Menor, from the Sierra Nevada. After a wild career it enters the plain beyond Montoro, becomes navigable at Cordova, and even carries sea-going vessels at Seville.

The History of the country dates from hoar antiquity. It was the Tarshish of the Bible, being already named in the generations of Noah (Gen. x. 4), and was called by the Greeks Tartessós, the home of precious metals, especially of silver, the source of the wealth of Tyre. Here, too, are the rich copper mines of Rio Tinto and Tharsis, which were already worked in the ancient Iberian age. The Mediterranean peoples contented themselves with visiting the harbours established in the bays of the coast, leaving it to the natives to bring the produce of the interior down to them across the mountains or by the river Bætis. Thus arose, probably even before the foundation of Cadiz, the Phœnician towns of Málaca (Málaga) and Kalpe (Gibraltar), besides other small settlements. About 1100 B.C. Gadîr or Gades, the westmost of these, appears in history, and afterwards became dependent on Carthage. The art of writing, the first and most potent aid to commerce, was propagated from Gades, which thereby laid the foundation of the higher civilization of the peninsula. Summoned to their aid by the Gaditanians, the Carthaginians, who had already gained possession of the Balearic Islands, invaded Iberia. After the Punic Wars (p. 345) came the domination of the Romans, who in 27 A.D. gave the whole of S. Spain the name of Provincia Baetica. On the break-up of the Roman Empire Andalusia was overrun by the Vandals (p. 322), the Suevi, and the Visigoths. At length the Arabs and the Berbers of Morocco obtained a footing here, after they had crossed the Straits of Gibraltar under Târik (p. 54). By them this region, and afterwards the whole peninsula which they conquered, were named El-Andalûs (‘land of the West’). Down to the 13th cent. the Moors occupied Andalusia, and it was not till 1492 that Granada was captured by Ferdinand V., the Catholic.

These vicissitudes in the country’s history are still reflected in its present Inhabitants. Half African, half European, like the Maltese, the Sicilians, and the Sardinians, the Andalusians have inherited something of the character, the customs, and the language of all the nations that once held sway in this region. To this day the Andalusian dialect swarms with Arabic words; almost all the terms used in agriculture and irrigation are Arabic. The popular dances and music are of Oriental origin. To their Oriental ancestry the Andalusian (Andaluz, Andaluza) also owes his exuberant imagination. There can be no greater contrast than that which the calm and proud Old-Castilian presents to the volatile 51and excitable Andalusian, who is apt to substitute fancy for fact, who sees everything as through a magnifying glass, and who is therefore much given to exaggeration (fanfarronadas). On the other hand nothing can be more charming than the bearing of an Andalusian ‘maja’, who is admired rather for her wit, her grace, and her power of repartee than for her beauty. The Sal Andaluza is as proverbial as the Attic ‘salt’ of the ancients.

Andalusia can boast of possessing, not only some of the finest and most interesting Moorish Buildings in Spain, such as the mosque at Cordova, the Giralda and Alhambra at Granada, but also several of the grandest monuments of the ‘reconquista’ period. Among these are the Alcázar of Seville, one of the most brilliant creations of the so-called Mudejar, or Moorish-Christian style, and the grand cathedrals of Seville and Granada in the Gothic and ‘plateresque’, or Spanish early-Renaissance, styles.—Nor is the Scenery of this region less attractive. Andalusia may be said to stand in the same relation to Spain as Sicily to Italy, or as Provence to the rest of France. It combines all that the rest of the peninsula possesses locally or partially. To the E. are vast plateaux and steppes, frozen in winter and parched in summer; to the S. rise snow-clad mountains; on the S.W. are the sand-dunes of the Atlantic coast; olive-groves thrive on the Guadalquivir; and on the shores of the Mediterranean are well-watered vegas where the cotton-plant, the banana, and the sugar-cane flourish.

Mediterranean Travellers will hardly have time for more than a circular tour from Gibraltar to Tangier, Cadiz, Seville, Cordova, Granada, and back to Gibraltar, or, in unfavourable weather, to Algeciras, Bobadilla, and Seville only. The Spanish railways (see the Guía general de Ferrocarriles; 1 p., smaller edition 75 c.) are far inferior to the British or to the French, and their speed is very low. The natives travel mostly in the second or third class, but the carriages cannot be recommended. The first class often has a berlina, or coupé-carriage with four seats, which affords an unimpeded view (higher fare).

In the larger towns one may book luggage (facturar el equipaje) 1–2 hrs. before the departure of the train, at the despacho central, or town-office. Booking it at the station itself is a very slow process. As in France luggage up to 30 kilos (66 lbs.) is free. The ticket for it is called a talón or boletín de equipaje. The porter (mozo), often most importunate, receives 30–50 c. or more.

Andalusia possesses few first-class hotels. The better second-class inns are similar to the French and Italian. Even for a stay of a single day it is usual to pay an inclusive charge for bed and board (pupilaje, from 6 to 20 p.). Déjeuner or lunch (11–1 o’clock) is called almuerzo; dinner, comida (at or after 7); table-wine, vino común or de mesa. No allowance is made for meals omitted. An extra charge is often made for breakfast (coffee, etc.), which Spanish travellers usually take in their own rooms. Notice of departure should be given as early as possible, lest a whole additional day be charged for. The usual fee to the servants (camarero, waiter; muchacha, chamber-maid; mozo, boots), who are apt to be lazy and inattentive, is 1 p. per day, divided among them, or more in proportion for families.

The beer-houses are called cervecerías. The cafés are usually open in the afternoon and evening only. Café con leche is coffee with milk; 52café solo is without milk. Newspapers (periódicos) are not provided by the cafés. Tobacco and cigars are a government monopoly; the shop is called estanco; there are also special shops for the better Havana cigars.

The post-offices (correo), even in the larger towns, are often open for a few hours only. The hours for obtaining poste-restante (cartas en lista) or registered letters (cartas certificadas) are often changed; the addressee must show his visiting-card (tarjeta) at the office. Stamps (sellos de correo; for the town 10, country 15, abroad 25 c.) and post-cards (tarjetas postales, 10 c.) are obtainable at the tobacco-shops only. Telegrams (telegramas) must be prepaid with special stamps (sellos de telégrafos), for the sale of which there are separate offices.

The Spanish peseta (p.), divided into 100 centimos (c.), is scarcely equal to the franc in value. The only valid banknotes are those of the Madrid Banco de España. The 5 p. piece is popularly called a duro; the 10 c. and 5 c. copper coins are often termed perro grande and perro chico (‘big and little dog’) in jocular allusion to the lions in the coat-of-arms. Change should be examined carefully, as base coin is common.—At Gibraltar the currency is English, but Spanish money is received, except at the post and telegraph office.

5. Gibraltar.

Arrival. The ocean-going steamers land and embark their passengers in their own steam-tenders at any time before sunset at the Commercial Pier (fare for each pers. 1s. either way). The tariff for small boats is 1s. 6d. for a row in the harbour, or to or from the steamboats, for 1–2 pers., and 1s. for each addit. person; luggage up to 56 lbs. free; excess, 6d. per 56 lbs.; or a bargain may be made (l–2s. for passenger, incl. luggage). In bad weather the tariff is raised, in accordance with the signals (red, blue, bluish-white), to one-third more, or double, or triple fare. The porters are notorious for their extortionate demands. The charge for conveying luggage to the hotel should be fixed beforehand.—The Custom House Examination at the harbour-gate is confined to tobacco, spirits, and weapons. Foreigners require a permit from the Police Office (Pl. 2) to spend the day on shore, and if they intend to spend the night the permit must be renewed by their landlord. Between 5.30 and 8.15, according to the season, a cannon-shot (gun-fire) announces the closing of the Land Port (p. 55). The other gates remain open till 11.

Hotels (the inclusive charge for the day should be ascertained). Hôt. Bristol (Pl. a), Cathedral Square, quiet and pleasant; Grand Hotel (Pl. b) and Hôt. Cecil (Pl. c), both in Waterport St.; these three have high charges, from 10–12s. a day and upwards; Hôt. Paris (Pl. f), opposite the post-office, new, pens. 8–15 fr.—Plainer: Hôt. Continental (Pl. d), Turnbull’s Lane; Hôt. Victoria, Church St., café-restaur.; Nuevo Hot. Español (Pl. e), Irish Town, pens. 8s., tolerable.—The drinking-water (rain-water from cisterns) is not good.—Cafés. Universal, Church St.; also at the Assembly Rooms (p. 53).

Cabs (stands at Waterport Gate, Commercial Sq., and Cathedral Sq.). Drive for 1–2 pers. in the lower town, between Waterport Gate and Alameda, 6d.; in the upper quarters (Governor’s St.) 9d.; to Catalan Bay 1s. 3d.; to the lighthouse 1s. 4d.; to Governor’s Cottage 1s. 9d.—Per hour, for 1–2 pers., 1s. 6d.; for each addit. ½ hr. 6d.; 3d. extra for each addit. pers., or 5d. extra for the longer drives (lighthouse, Governor’s Cottage, etc.).—Each trunk 2d.—The tariff is in force only from daybreak till midnight. A bargain should be made beforehand.

Post Office (Pl. 1), Waterport St.; week-days 7 a.m.–8 p.m. (on Sun. 8–10 a.m.). The overland English mail closes at 6.45 a.m.—Telegraph Office, same place; 6 a.m. till midnight. Tariff to England 3d. or (viâ Malta) 6d. per word; to the United States 1s. 4d.–1s. 11d. per word.

53Banks. Anglo-Egyptian, Market St., opposite Police Station; Larios Hermanos, Irish Town; Thos. Cook & Son (tourist-agents), Waterport St.—Numerous money-changers.

United States Consul, R. L. Sprague; vice-consul, A. D. Hayden.—Lloyd’s Agents, Smith, Imossi, & Co., Irish Town.

Theatre. Assembly Rooms (Pl. 8), in the Alameda, with open-air café.

Steamboat Lines (comp. ‘Gibraltar Chronicle’). Peninsular & Oriental (Smith, Imossi, & Co., Irish Town), weekly between London, Marseilles, and Port Said (for Australia and China; comp. RR. 17, 67); Orient Royal (Smith, Imossi, & Co.), fortnightly between London, Marseilles, and Port Said (for Australia; comp. RR. 17, 67); Cunard (M. H. Bland & Co., Cloister Bdg.), between New York and Trieste (RR. 15a, 16); White Star (Th. Morsley & Co., Irish Town 11), 2 or 3 times monthly to Naples (and Genoa; RR. 16, 15a), or viâ Algiers to Genoa; North German Lloyd (J. Onetti & Sons, Engineer Lane), fortnightly to Algiers, Genoa, Naples, and Port Said (comp. RR. 1, 15b, 24, 67), also fortnightly between New York, Algiers, Naples, and Genoa (comp. RR. 16, 24); the Hamburg-American (J. Carrara & Sons, Waterport St.) has excursion-steamers only; German Levant (J. Rugeroni & Son, Commercial Sq.), occasionally to Algiers; Hall Line (W. J. S. Smith, Bomb House Lane), weekly between London, Lisbon, Cadiz, and Málaga (comp. RR. 1, 6b); Royal Mail Steam Packet (Bland & Co., see above), every other Wed. for Tangier, Mogador, Teneriffe, etc. (RR. 14, 3, 4); Transports Maritimes (Imossi & Son), 21st of each month for Madeira and S. America; Oldenburg-Portuguese (A. Mateos & Sons, Pitman’s Alley) twice monthly to Tangier and Mogador (R. 14); Navigation Mixte (A. Mateos & Sons), every other Wed. night to Tangier, Oran, and Marseilles (RR. 18, 19); Vapores Correos de Africa (J. Onetti & Sons; at Algeciras, A. Gil Pineda), from Algeciras to Tangier and Cadiz (see R. 6b).—Local steamers to Algeciras and Tangier, comp. R. 6.

One Day (or even less when time presses). Walk through the town to the Alameda (p. 55); visit to Europa Point (p. 55) and perhaps Catalan Bay also (p. 56).—Foreigners are not admitted to the fortifications, photographing or sketching which is prohibited.

Gibraltar, a town of 23,450 inhab. (incl. the garrison of 5100 men), the key of the Mediterranean, and one of the most important coast-fortresses in the world, in British possession since 1704, and headquarters of the Atlantic Fleet, lies on the W. slope of a huge rock, which is connected with the Spanish mainland by a sandy isthmus only. The famous rock bounds the Bay of Algeciras or Gibraltar on the E. ‘It is the very image of an enormous lion, crouched between the Atlantic and the Mediterranean, and set there to guard the passage for its British mistress’ (Thackeray).

The rock is composed of Jurassic limestone, overlying Silurian slate, and extending from N. to S.; it is 3 M. long and ¾ M. in breadth, with a saddle separating Mt. Rockgun (1356 ft.), the lower hill on the N., from the Signal Station, the Highest Point (1396 ft.), and the Sugar Loaf Hill (O’ Hara’s Tower, 1361 ft.) on the S. Its grey masses ascend gradually in terraces on the W. and S. sides, and rise almost perpendicularly on the E. and N. sides.

The Town of Gibraltar (‘North Town’) covers a third of the W. slope to the N., while the remaining two-thirds are occupied by the Alameda, numerous pretty villas, the barracks of the South Town, and the Lighthouse on Europa Point. The houses rise in 54terraces to a height of 260 ft.; the streets are narrow and dark, and are relieved by few squares. The natives are chiefly Spaniards and descendants of many different Mediterranean races. The numerous Moroccans, mostly dealers from Tangier, indicate the proximity of the African coast. The cleanness of the town and the absence of beggars produce a pleasant impression. The Coal Stores on the South Mole (along with those of Algiers and Malta) supply the vessels bound for the Suez Canal (about 1200 annually). There is little other trade except the import of cattle and provisions from Galicia and Morocco.

The ancient name of the rock was Kalpe, while the hills on the African side were called Abyla (now Sierra Bullones; p. 103). Together they were known as the ‘Pillars of Hercules’, the entrance to the ocean. Under the protection of the divine Hercules-Melkarth, the Phœnicians ventured through the straits, even as far as Britain, whence they brought the earliest tidings from the North and also cargoes of tin, which they mixed with copper to produce bronze. Kalpe was also the name of the first Phœnician settlement on the bay of Gibraltar, while Carteia, on the inner part of the bay, was probably of ancient Iberian origin. Carteia was still an important harbour under the Carthaginians, and in 171 B. C. it became the first Roman colony in the whole peninsula. Nothing is recorded of the period which succeeded the invasion of the Vandals (p. 322). At length in 711 the bay re-appears in history, when Mûsa, the governor appointed by the Caliph of Damascus, sent the Berber Târik ibn Ziyâd across from Ceuta to the bay of Algeciras on an expedition against Spain, in which he defeated the Visigoths at Veger de la Frontera, near Cape Trafalgar (p. 58). Impressed by the commanding position of the rock of Gibraltar, Târik afterwards erected a fort upon it, which formed the nucleus of the Moorish castle (p. 55). From him is derived the name of Jebel Târik, ‘mountain of Târik’, corrupted into Gibraltar. In 1309 Gibraltar was captured by Al. Pérez de Guzmán (el Bueno) for Ferdinand IV. of Castile; the Moors recaptured it in 1333, but in 1462 lost it again to the Spaniards. In consequence of the plundering of Gibraltar by Algerian pirates under Kheireddin (p. 221), Charles V. ordered the fortifications to be reconstructed and new ramparts to be built from the S. side of the town to the crest of the hill. In 1610 the Spanish Admiral Mendoza caused the last Moriscoes of Andalusia to be sent back to Morocco from this very port, where their ancestors had so long held sway, and whence they had gone forth to conquer the whole peninsula. After having undergone ten sieges at various periods, the fortress was surprised and captured by the British fleet under Adm. George Rooke and Prince George of Hesse-Darmstadt in 1704, during the Spanish War of Succession, and was stoutly and successfully defended by them during a six months’ bombardment by the Spaniards and the French (1704–5). The thirteenth siege (1727) and the ‘great siege’ by the French and the Spaniards (1779–83) were also unsuccessful, the British commander then being Gen. Eliott, afterwards Lord Heathfield. By the Peace of Versailles, in 1783, Great Britain was confirmed in her possession of the historic rock.

The older Fortifications on the coast, from Land Port on the N. to Europa Point on the S., those on the S. slope of the rock above Europa Point, and those on the N. side (the famous underground galleries, p. 55) have in late years been strengthened by the construction of a fort on the summit of the hill, armed with guns of the largest calibre.

From the Old Mole, dating from 1309, and lately prolonged by the North Mole, we pass through the Old Mole Gate (the outer gate of the harbour), and then, beyond the Market, through the 55inner Waterport Gate, which stands on the site of the old Moorish wharf. This brings us to the S. E. to Casemates Square.

Adjacent, on the S., is Waterport Street, with the chief buildings, forming, together with the parallel street to the W. called Irish Town, the chief business quarter.

Waterport Street is prolonged to the S. by Church Street. Beyond Commercial Square and the Exchange (Pl. 3) we come to the Catholic Cathedral (Pl. 4), on the left, originally a mosque, but restored by the ‘Catholic kings’ (p. 75) after 1502; there now remains little worth seeing except the Moorish orange-court.—A little farther on, on the same side is the Supreme Court (Pl. 7), with its pretty garden. To the right, in Cathedral Square, stands the Anglican Cathedral (Pl. 6), built in the Moorish style.

The southmost part of this line of streets is Southport Street, where, on the right, rises the Convent, once a Franciscan establishment, now the Government House (governor, Sir Arch. Hunter), the garden of which contains a venerable dragon-tree (p. 30). At the S. end of this street is Southport Gate, which is always open, dating from the time of Charles V., but restored in 1883. Outside the gate, on the left, is the small Trafalgar Cemetery, where the British who fell at the battle of Trafalgar (p. 58) are buried.

The Alameda, beyond the gate, a fine promenade with rich subtropical vegetation, was laid out by Governor George Don in 1814. A military band plays near the Assembly Rooms (p. 53) on Sun. and Wed. from 3–5, or in summer in the evening. To the W. we overlook the Naval Harbour, with its dockyard, quays, and long South Mole.

A little to the E. of the Southport Gate is Prince Edward’s Gate, a second exit to the S. from the town, whence the *Europa Main Road ascends gently along the W. slope of the rock, above the Alameda Gardens, between gardens and villas. Below it, on the right, farther on, are the Naval Hospital and the Buena Vista Barracks. Lastly, a little way short of a signal-station, we descend between the fissured rocks of the Europa Pass to (1½ M.) Europa Point, with its great Lighthouse, the much-eroded S. extremity of the peninsula. The road then turns to the N., soon affording a view of the Spanish Mediterranean coast, to the Governor’s Cottage and the Monkeys’ Cave hidden among the rocks.

The Moorish Castle, above the artillery barracks, begun by Târik in 713 and completed in 742, is entered through the Civil Prison (verbal permission required by foreigners). Access to the Subterranean Galleries of the fortress, lying below the castle and dating from 1782 (comp. p. 54), is now limited to British subjects.

From the Market (p. 54) we may walk to the N. E. to the Land Port (notice as to closing should be observed; comp. p. 52), and past the Inundation, a space which may be flooded for defensive 56purposes (made in 1705), to the North Front, which forms part of the low neck of land below the N. slopes of the rock. From this point the Devil’s Tower Road leads to the S.E., past the Cemeteries, to the Devil’s Tower (10 min. from the Land Fort), probably an old Genoese watch-tower. The road then turns to the S. to Catalan Bay, below the E. flank of the rock, just allowing room for the little fishing-village of Caleta. The rocks contain several caves.

Beyond the Neutral Ground, 550 yds. in breadth, we come to the Spanish town of Linea de la Concepción (29,600 inhab.), 1¼ M. to the N. of Gibraltar, which owes its origin to the old Spanish lines of defence, long since demolished. The place is uninteresting.

6. From Gibraltar to Seville.

a. Viâ Bobadilla and Utrera.

Steamboat from Gibraltar (Commercial Pier) to Algeciras Puerto in ½ hr. (fare 1½ or 1 p.; passengers with through-tickets have their luggage conveyed gratis).—Railway from Algeciras Puerto to Seville, 214 M., in 10½ hrs. (54 p. 20, 40 p. 20, 24 p. 85 c.); carriages are changed at Bobadilla, La Roda, and Utrera. Rail. Restaurants at Ronda, Bobadilla, and Utrera. There are through-expresses from Granada to Seville (thrice weekly, in 7¾ hrs.), but they do not correspond with the Algeciras trains.

Algeciras (Hot. Reina Cristina, first-class; Hot. Anglo-Hispano; Hot. Marina; Brit, vice-cons., W. J. Smith; pop. 13,300), a small town on the W. margin of the bay of that name, is a winter resort of English and American visitors. The famous Morocco Conference (comp. p. 96) of 1906 was held in the Casa Consistorial or town-hall.—Local steamer to Ceuta, see p. 102.

The train for Bobadilla, soon after starting, crosses the rivers Palmones and Guadarranque. To the right we have a final view of the Bay of Algeciras and the African coast. Beyond (8¾ M.) San Roque we traverse extensive plantations of cork-trees (p. 171). 26 M. Jimena; 36 M. Gaucin, in the Guadiaro Valley, the station for the little town high up on the hills, 5½ M. to the E.—We next pass through the romantic Guadiaro Ravine, and through many tunnels under the slopes of the Sierra de Ronda, and skirt the foot of the barren limestone slopes of the Sierra de Libar.

65½ M. Ronda (2460 ft.; Rail. Restaur.; Hot. Reina Victoria, first-class, pens. from 17½ or 20 p.; Hot. Royal, in the new town, English, pens. from 12½ p., good; pop. 19,000), one of the most interesting towns in Spain, occupying a plateau girdled by grand mountains. From the station we follow the Carrera de Espinel to the W. to the Calle de Castelar, the main street of the new town, and the Plaza de Toros (bull-ring). From the railed-in platforms of the Paseo de la Merced, a park a little to the N.W. of the plaza, we enjoy a fine view, with the foaming Guadalevin, or Guadiaro, some 660 ft, below us. The Puente Nuevo, crossing at the S. end 57of the main street (p. 56) from the new town to the old town, affords a splendid view of the *Ravine of the Guadalevin (El Tajo, ‘the cutting’), about 330 ft. deep and filled with the spray of the river. The bed of the latter is strewn with rocks and the abrupt sides of the gorge are thickly overgrown with cactus.

The train descends between olives and cork-trees into the valley of the Guadalete (p. 59), and then cuts through the last N. spurs of the S. Andalusian Mts.

110 M. Bobadilla (1240 ft.; Rail. Restaur.) is the junction for Cordova (see R. 9), Granada (see R. 9), and Málaga (R. 11).

We follow the Cordova line as far as (124½ M.) La Roda (comp. p. 72; change carr.), and then turn to the W. to (147 M.) Osuna and (166½ M.) Marchena, junction of the Utrera and Cordova line (p. 59). We next cross the Guadaira (p. 59) and pass (184 M.) Empalme de Morón. At (194 M.) Utrera (Rail. Restaur.; change carr.) we join the Cadiz and Seville line (R. 6 b).

The train now runs to the N.W., mostly through fertile land (oranges, pomegranates, olives), and crosses the Guadaira.

214 M. Seville (Estación San Bernardo or de Cádiz), see p. 59.

b. Viâ Tangier and Cadiz.

From (Gibraltar) Algeciras to Cadiz. Steamers of the Vapores Correos de Africa (agents at Gibraltar and Algeciras, see p. 53; at Tangier, p. 98; at Cadiz, p. 58) from Algeciras (steamboats from Gibraltar, see p. 56) every morning except on Mon. & Frid. (from Cadiz daily except on Sun. & Thurs.) to (3 hrs.) Tangier and (9 hrs.) Cadiz (fares 1st cl. 30 p., 2nd cl. 23 p.; to Tangier only 15 or 12 p.). From Gibraltar to Tangier there ply on Tues., Thurs., and Wed. the small cargo-steamers of the Bland Line (about 2¼ hrs.; 10 or 5 p.). Steamers of the Hall Line ply weekly and those of the Royal Mail Steam Packet and the Oldenburg-Portuguese lines mentioned at p. 104, as well as of the Navigation Mixte, ply occasionally to Cadiz. The voyage to Cadiz viâ Tangier is picturesque in itself, and it affords also a most interesting glimpse of Moorish-Mohammedan life at Tangier. On the other hand the steamboat communication is uncertain in stormy weather, and to many travellers the voyage, especially in the smaller vessels, is very trying.

From Cadiz to Seville, 95 M., railway in 3¼–5¼ hrs. (fares 19 p. 80, 14 p. 50, 8 p. 70 c.). Railway Restaurant at Utrera only.

For Algeciras and the voyage through the Straits, see pp. 56, 5. As far as Tarifa the steamers usually skirt the Andalusian coast, and then strike across the straits to the semicircular Bay of Tangier, which is bounded on the E. by Cape Malabata.

Tangier, see p. 98.

After leaving the Bay of Tangier we sight Cape Spartel (p. 102) on the coast of Morocco. In clear weather we command a beautiful retrospect of the mountainous coast, as far as the Sierra Bullones (p. 103). Opposite, on the Spanish coast, where the hills gradually recede, at the N.W. end of the shallow Bay of Barbate, rises Cape 58Trafalgar, the Promontorium Junonis of the Romans and Taraf al-Ghâr (‘cape of caverns’) of the Moors. The tall lighthouse on the cape is visible at night from a distance of 22 M. It was here, on 21st Oct. 1805, that Nelson won the brilliant victory over the combined French and Spanish fleets under Villeneuve and Gravina that cost him his life and made Britain mistress of the seas.

Farther along the sandy coast, are the little town of Conil and the insignificant Cape Roche, beyond which we sight San Fernando (p. 59). At length, rising out of the blue sea, appear the lofty quays and the white houses of Cadiz, overtopped by the cathedral, a beautiful sight in sunny weather. We steer round Fort San Sebastián, skirt the cliffs of Los Cochinos and Las Puercas, and enter the broad Bay of Cadiz.

Cadiz.—Arrival. Passengers of the Vapores Correos de Africa steamers are landed in tenders gratis, but heavy luggage is taken ashore by special boats according to tariff. The mandadero, or porter, usually gets ½–1 p. for taking luggage to the Aduana (custom-house) or to the hotel.—The Railway Station (Estación) lies at the harbour.

Hotels (comp. p. 51). Hôt. de France, Plaza de Loreto, pens. from 12½ p.; Hôt. Continental, Calle del Duque de Tetuán 23; Hôt. de Cadiz, Plaza de la Constitución, pens. from 10 p.

Cafés. Cervecería Inglesa, Plaza de la Constitución, corner of Calle del Duque de Tetuán; Café Imperial, Calle del Duque de Tetuán 6; Cervecería Alemana, Calle Zorrilla 2.

Post Office (Correo), Calle del Sacramento 1.—Telegraph Office, Alameda de Apodaca 20.

Bankers. Ant. Sicre & Co. (Agents of Crédit Lyonnais), Calle Diego de Cádiz 5; Amaro Duarte & Co., Plaza de Mina 18.—Money Changers. Casa de Cambio, Calle de San Francisco 8 and 16.

Consuls. British Vice-Consul, R. A. Calvert, Alameda 20.—U. S. Consular Agent, J. Sanderson, Alameda 12.—Lloyd’s Agent, H. MacPherson, San Ginés 6.

Steamboat Lines. Hall Line, weekly from London to Lisbon, Cadiz, Gibraltar, and Málaga (comp. pp. 1, 89); the Compañía Trasatlántica (office in the Calle Isabel la Católica) has a Philippine Line (monthly from Liverpool to Lisbon, etc.; comp. p. 1), a Canary Line, and several others; Vapores Correos de Africa (agent, Antonio Millán), comp. p. 57; steamers of the Austro-American Line (office, Viuda de R. Alcon) ply between Trieste, Almería, Las Palmas, and Buenos Ayres; Navegación é Industria (Viuda de R. Alcon), for the Canaries.

Cadiz, Span. Cádiz, the Gadîr of the Phœnicians and Gades of the Romans, now a provincial capital of 64,100 inhab., and a fortress, is most picturesquely situated on a low limestone rock, which was once an island, on the W. side of the Bay of Cadiz.

From the harbour or from the railway-station we cross the Plaza Isabel Segunda either to the Calle Alonso el Sábio and the Cathedral (Catedral Nueva), or to the Calle del Sacramento, leading to the Torre del Vigía or de Tavira, 102 ft. high, which is accessible only by special permission of the Capitania del Puerto (Calle de Aduana). The top (151 steps; fee 30–50 c.) commands an excellent survey of the town, surrounded almost entirely by the sea, with its flat-roofed houses and their miradores or belvederes.

59The Calle Sagasta, the second side-street off the Calle del Sacramento, leads to the right into the Calle del Duque de Tetuán, the chief artery of traffic, which ends in the busy Plaza de la Constitución to the N.W. A little to the N.E., in the pretty Plaza de Mina, is the Academia de Bellas Artes, the picture-gallery of which contains several admirable works by Murillo, Zurbarán, and other masters. (Adm. 9–3, in summer 7–4; Sun. and holidays 10–3.)

On the N. outskirts of the town are the beautiful *Gardens of the Alameda de Apodaca and the Parque Genovés, with their fine palms. On the S. side of the town, not far from the W. end of the shadeless Paseo del Sur, rises the former Capuchin convent-church of Santa Catalina (ring on the left in the adjacent court; adm. 20 c.), containing Murillo’s last work, the *Betrothal of St. Catharine.

The Railway to Seville runs along the narrow neck of land which connects Cadiz with the mainland, rounds the Bay of Cadiz, passing between salt-marshes, where salt is obtained by evaporation, and then strikes across the delta of the Guadalete. The chief stations are the naval harbour of San Fernando, the sea-baths of Puerto Real, and the Puerto de Santa María (‘El Puerto’). Turning to the N.E., the train now runs through a hilly country to (30½ M.) Jerez (or Xeres) de la Frontera, the third-richest town in Spain, with 52,500 inhab., far-famed for its ‘sherry’.

Our next run is through moor, alternating with fertile tracts, to (75 M.) Utrera (p. 57), junction for La Roda (and Bobadilla, R. 6 a), and also for the direct line to Cordova. Lastly, we cross the Guadaira to (95 M.) Seville (Estación de Cádiz, see below).

7. Seville.

Railway Stations. 1. Estación San Bernardo or de Cádiz (Pl. F, G, 1; Rail. Restaur.), for the line to Utrera (Cadiz, Granada, Málaga).—2. Estación de Córdoba or de Madrid (Pl. D, 5, 6; Restaur.), near the Guadalquivir. Hotel carriages and cabs at both. Tariff, see p. 60.

Hotels (comp. p. 51). *Hot. de Madrid (Pl. a; D, E, 4), Calle de Méndez Núñes 2, with dépendance (Pl. b; D, 4), in the Plaza del Pacífico, pens. from 12½ (in spring 15) p.; *Hot. de Inglaterra (Pl. f; E, 4), Plaza Nueva 13, newly fitted up, pens. from 12½ p.; Hôt. de Paris (Pl. c; D, 4), Plaza del Pacífico, with two dépendances (Pl. d), similar charges; these three claim to be first-class.—Hot. de Roma (Pl. e; D, 4), Plaza del Duque de la Victoria 6, pens. from 9 p.; Hot. de Oriente (Pl. i; E, 4), Plaza Nueva 8, pens. 7–10 p.; Pensión la Peninsular (Pl. g; E, 4), Plaza Nueva 20; Cecil Hotel (Pl. h; E, 4), Calle de Méndez Núñez 18 & 23; Hôt. de la Paix (Pl. k; E, 4), same street, No. 11; Hot. Simón (Pl. n; D, 4), Calle O’Donnell 25, pens. 7 p.; Hôt. Restaur. Alhambra, Calle Santa María de Gracia (Pl. D, 4).—During Holy Week (semana santa) and the Feria (p. 60) charges are doubled almost everywhere, and rooms should be secured long beforehand.

Cafés. Pasaje de Oriente (see below); Cervecería Inglesa (Engl. beer) and Café de Paris, both in the Calle de la Campana; Perla Chica, near the Ayuntamiento (p. 65).—Restaurant. *Pasaje de Oriente, Calle de las Sierpes.

60The Tramways (Tranvías; cars stop where required; passengers ring to alight) all start from the Plaza de la Constitución (Pl. E, 3). For a general view of the city the circular lines ‘Constitución, Roario, Macarena’ (red cross) and ‘Constitución, Puerta Real, Puerta de Jerez’ (green cross) are recommended. The ‘Línea del Parque’ runs to the park on fine afternoons only.

The night hours are from midnight to sunrise. Small articles 25 c.; trunk under 66 lbs. (30 kilos) 50 c., heavier 1 p.—During the Semana Santa and the Feria fares are about double (but not for baggage), and bargaining is advisable. Driving on Holy Thursday and Good Friday is prohibited.

Post & Telegraph Office (Correos y Telégrafos; Pl. D, 4), Calle de las Sierpes. Poste-restante hours are from 8.15 to 9.45, from 12.15 to 2.15, and 6–7 p.m.

Banks. Crédit Lyonnais, Calle de las Sierpes 87; Banco Hispano-Americano, same street, No. 91; Banco de Cartagena, Calle Rioja 18.

Consuls. British, A. L. Keyser, Chicarreros 10 (to the E. of the Audiencia, Pl. E, 3); vice-consul, A. Henderson.—United States, Ch. S. Vinans, Mercaderes 50 (Pl. E, 3); vice-consul, C. Karminski.—Lloyd’s Agent, José Dunipe, Marqués de Santa Ana 14.

English Church, Plaza del Museo (Pl. D, 5). Services in winter.

Theatres. *Teatro de San Fernando (Pl. D, E, 4), Calle de Tetuán, for operas and ballet; Teatro de Cervantes (Pl. C, 4), Calle Amor de Dios, for short dramas, etc.—Bull Ring (Plaza de Toros; Pl. F, 4, 5). Famous ‘corridas’ on Easter Sunday and during the Feria.

Church Festivals. Most curious among these are the *Processions (pasos) of the brotherhoods during Holy Week, which attract crowds of spectators. They are best witnessed from the stand in front of the town-hall (seat for the 4 days 10 p.).—The *Feria (18–20th April), a picturesque popular festival, founded in 1847, is held in the Prado de San Sebastián (Pl. G, 1, 2), where wealthy families have their own tents.

Sights. Most of the churches are open in the morning only; the Cathedral (p. 63) till 12 and after 3.30. In the Sacristía de los Cálices (p. 64) a ticket (permiso) for this sacristia, for the Sacristía Mayor, the Sala Capitular, and the closed chapels is obtained for 2 p. The Capilla Real is open in the forenoon only (fee ½–1 p.). The services of the importunate guides to the Cathedral and the Giralda may be dispensed with. During Holy Week, when the churches are open all day, the inspection of their art-treasures is scarcely possible. Admission to collections in private houses and charitable institutions is readily granted as a rule, but seldom without difficulty on Sundays and holidays and during Holy Week. The usual days and hours of admission are—

*Alcázar (p. 61), week-days 11–4; tickets (1 p.) are issued at the office at the back of the Patio de las Banderas (door No. 11).

Casa de Pilatos (p. 65), daily (50 c., for the poor).

*Giralda (p. 62), daily (25 c.); no one allowed to ascend alone.

*Hospital de la Caridad (p. 67), daily (fee ½–1 p.); clear weather indispensable; afternoon light best.

*Museo Provincial (p. 66), daily 10–3 (in summer 10–4). On Sun. the Archæological Museum is open till 1 only.

Two Days (when time is limited). 1st. Forenoon, Plaza de la Constitución (p. 65), Cathedral (p. 63), Alcázar (p. 61); afternoon, Calle de las 61Sierpes (p. 65), Casa de Pilatos (p. 65); towards evening, ascent of the Giralda (p. 62).—2nd. Forenoon, Museum (p. 66); afternoon, Caridad (p. 67), Paseo de las Delicias (p. 67), and Parque María Luisa (p. 68).

Seville, Span. Sevilla (33 ft.), a city of 145,300 inhab., the capital of Andalusia and of the province of Sevilla, the seat of an Archbishop and of a University, lies in a broad plain on the left bank of the tawny Guadalquivir, opposite the suburb of Triana. At flood-tide sea-going vessels of 23 ft. draught can ascend the river to the quays of Seville, which, though 54½ M. from the sea, can thus claim to be a seaport. The harbour is annually entered by about 1000 vessels, of 1¼ millions aggregate tonnage. The city combines the features of a seaport with gay scenes of popular life and a wealth of treasures of art. The houses in the narrow winding streets, the heritage of the Moorish period, often contain charming inner courts, called pátios, where the inhabitants spend most of their time in summer. The larger plazas or squares are mostly planted with oranges or palm-trees.

Seville, as its ancient name Hispalis indicates, was originally an Iberian settlement. Ever since the 2nd cent. B. C. its navigable river has made Seville a place of importance. In 411 it became the capital of the Vandals (p. 322), and in 441 the seat of the Visigoth kings, who however migrated in 567 to the more central Toledo. During the Moorish period Seville, alternately with Marakesh, was a favourite residence of the Almoravides and Almohades (p. 95); and particularly under Yûsuf Abû Yakûb (1163–84) and under Yakûb ibn Yûsuf (1184–98), surnamed Al-Mansûr (‘the victorious’), it was embellished with many sumptuous buildings, and for a time it even surpassed Cordova in population. The Christian period begins with Frederick III. (‘the saint’) of Castile, who captured the city in 1248 and made it his residence. Among his descendants was Pedro I. (1350–69), surnamed ‘the Cruel’, of whom many anecdotes are still current. Since the discovery of America Seville has prospered greatly and vies with Cadiz as one of the chief ports of Spain.

At Seville were born Spain’s two greatest painters, Velázquez (1599–1660; court-painter at Madrid from 1623 onwards) and Murillo (1617–82). Here too is laid the scene of several famous operas: Mozart’s Don Juan and Figaro, Rossini’s Barber of Seville, and Bizet’s Carmen.

See ‘Seville’, by W. M. Gallichan, in the ‘Mediæval Towns Series’ (London, 1903); and ‘Seville’, by A. J. Calvert (London, 1907).

a. The Plaza del Triunfo with the Alcázar and the Cathedral.

We begin our walk at the Plaza del Triunfo (Pl. F, 3), which is bounded by three imposing edifices, the Lonja on the W. side, the Alcázar on the S., and the Cathedral on the N.

The Casa Lonja (Pl. F, 3), the Exchange, built in the high-Renaissance style in 1583–98, contains on the upper floor the Archivo General de Indias, with the Spanish charters and deeds relating to the discovery and government of America and the Philippines. Fine view from the roof, especially of the Cathedral.

The *Alcázar (Pl. F, 3; adm., see p. 60), originally a castle of the Almohade Yûsuf Abû Yakûb (1181; see above), dates in its 62present form mainly from the time of kings Pedro I. (p. 61) and Henry II. (1369–79), who caused the castle to be restored by Moorish architects in the Mudejar style (p. 51). Later alterations date from the reigns of Charles V. (1526), Philip II. (1569), and Philip IV. (1624), while modern restorations (1857–89) have materially changed the character of the interior.

The Exterior with its pinnacled corner-towers, still has the character of a mediæval castle. From the entrance in the S.E. angle of the Plaza del Triunfo we first cross the large Patio de las Banderas, in which are the ticket-office and a vaulted gateway (‘apeadero’). Thence we may proceed straight to the garden (see below), or to the right to the Patio de la Montería, the inner court, planted with oranges and palms. Very striking is the splendid *Chief Façade of the inner Alcázar. The beautiful windows and side-entrances are framed with toothed arches; above them runs a rich stalactite frieze crowned with a far-projecting timber roof resting on quaint corbels. Arabic inscriptions in Cufic characters (p. 150) serve for decoration.

The Apartments in the interior are grouped round the Patio de las Doncellas (‘court of the maidens’), erected in 1369–79, but almost entirely rebuilt under Charles V. and Philip II. The lower story is preceded by superb Moorish arcades resting on coupled Renaissance columns. The upper walls in open-work are richly embellished with stucco. The chief rooms on the groundfloor are, on the S.E., the Salón de Carlos Quinto with its fine ‘azulejos’ (or tiles) and timber ceiling; on the S.W., the quadrangular domed *Salón de Embajadores, also richly decorated with azulejos, and the Patio de las Muñecas (dolls’ court), modern in its upper parts, so called from the figures which adorn it.

From the Apeadero (see above) we may lastly visit the Garden of the Alcázar, with its luxuriant vegetation, a pavilion of the time of Charles V., a grotto, and fountains.

Returning to the Plaza del Triunfo, we face the Cathedral, with the Capilla Real (p. 64), projecting on the E., and the clock-tower at the N.E. angle of the church, the famous—

**Giralda (Pl. F, 3), the conspicuous landmark of the city. It was originally the minaret of the principal Moorish mosque, built in brick by the architect Jâbir for Yakûb ibn Yûsuf (p. 61) in 1184–96. The tower tapers slightly towards the top and is remarkable for its harmonious proportions. It is square in form, each side being 45 ft. long, and its walls are 7 ft. thick. The upper wall-surfaces adjoining the windows, at a height of about 80 ft. above the ground, are diapered with a network of Arabesque-like sunken panels, and are further enlivened with niches. Instead of being crowned with a pinnacled platform (see altar-piece, p. 64), the tower now has a belfry (1568), capped by a small dome (305 ft.), on which stands the Girardillo, or vane, a bronze female figure representing Faith.

The *Ascent (p. 60) is most enjoyable towards evening. Entrance by the door in the S.E. angle. An easy inclined plane, in 35 sections, and ending in 16 steps, ascends to the first gallery, where the bells are hung, and where we enjoy a very extensive view.

In the Calle de Alemanes, on the N. side of the Cathedral, is the main entrance to the *Patio de los Naranjos (Pl. F, 3; 63‘orange-court’), once the court of the mosque. The handsome entrance-gateway, called Puerta del Perdón, dates from the Moorish period. The bronze-mounted *Doors and the knockers, in the Mudejar style, and the sculptures (1519) are additions of the Christian period. The old artesonado or coffered ceiling was replaced in 1833 by a tower.

In this picturesque court, where the faithful used to perform their ablutions at a fountain (al-mîdâ) before entering the sacred precincts, we stand opposite the Cathedral; on the right is the Sagrario (p. 65); on the left is the Biblioteca Colombina, or cathedral library, founded in 1539 by Fernando Colón, Columbus’s son, above which towers the Giralda.

From the orange-court the cathedral may be entered by the Puerta de los Naranjos or (on the left) by the Puerta del Lagarto. It is preferable, however, to enter on the W. side, from the Calle del Gran Capitán.

The **Cathedral (Pl. F, 3; adm., see p. 60), one of the grandest and most sumptuous Gothic churches in the whole of Christendom, occupies the site of the principal Moorish mosque, which was erected by Yûsuf Abû Yakûb in 1171. It was begun by unknown architects in 1402, and in its chief parts was completed in 1506. The dome having collapsed in 1511, it was rebuilt from designs by Juan Gil de Ontañón in 1517, and having in 1888 again fallen in it was restored by Casanova.

The W. Façade, which was not completed till 1827, as well as the E. façade, is remarkable for the wealth of sculpture on its portals. On the two lateral gateways in particular, the Puerta del Bautismo (left) and the Puerta del Nacimiento (right), we note the beautiful terracotta figures by Pedro Millán (about 1500), of semi-northern character.

The *Interior has a nave with double aisles, two rows of side-chapels, a transept which does not project beyond the main walls, a choir in the centre, and a Capilla Mayor containing the high-altar. Exclusive of the Capilla Real, the church is 383 ft. long and 249 ft. in width. The nave is 53 ft. wide and 132 ft. high, the aisles are each 36 ft. wide and 85 ft. in height. The marble pavement is of the 18th cent., the fine stained glass of the 16th–19th centuries. The screen (reja) and the Gothic stalls (sillería) of the choir were almost entirely destroyed by the last collapse of the dome. The huge high-altar (retablo) in the Capilla Mayor is a masterpiece of Gothic wood-carving (1482–1564).

The Side Chapels and the Sacristies form a veritable museum of sculpture and painting, but are very badly lighted.

Adjoining the Puerta Mayor, the chief portal of the W. façade, are the Altar del Santo Angel, with a picture by Murillo (the ‘Angel de la Guarda’ or guardian angel), and the small Altar del 64Nacimiento, containing admirable pictures by Luis de Vargas (1502–68; ‘Adoration of the Child’ and the ‘Four Evangelists’).

The fourth chapel in the S. aisle, the Capilla de Hermenegildo, contains the fine Gothic monument of Archbp. Juan de Cervantes (d. 1453), by Lorenzo Mercadante de Bretaña.—In the S. transept rises the very curious sarcophagus of Columbus, placed in the cathedral of Havana in 1892 and brought to Spain in 1899. To the right stands the Altar de la Gamba, with the famous painting by Luis de Vargas, the so-called Generación, or Adoration of the Immaculate Conception by Adam and Eve, generally known as ‘La Gamba’, from the finely drawn and painted leg of Adam.

Through the Capilla de los Dolores we pass into the Sacristía de los Cálices, built in the late-Gothic style by Diego de Riaño (d. 1533) and Martin Gainza (d. 1566), where we obtain tickets of admission to the closed chapels, etc. (see p. 60). In front of us is a famous *Crucifix, by Martínez Montañés (d. 1649), the most typical of Andalusian sculptors; on the left are a SS. Justa and Rufina, by Goya (1817), and St. Dorothea by Murillo. On the window-wall is St. John the Evangelist, by Zurbarán.

Adjacent to the Antesala is the *Sacristía Mayor, a magnificent room in the plateresque style, also built, after 1532, by Riaño and Gainza, containing the rich treasury of the cathedral and three valuable pictures, a Descent from the Cross, by Pedro Campaña (1548), and SS. Leander and Isidore by Murillo.

The Capilla del Mariscal possesses an altar-piece in ten sections, the Presentation in the Temple, by Pedro Campaña.

The elliptical *Sala Capitular, begun by Riaño and Gainza in 1530 but not finished till after 1582, has a Doric entablature resting on Ionic mural columns, while the decoration is plateresque (Span. Renaissance). The eight ovals between the windows and the fine picture of the Immaculate Conception are by Murillo.

On the E. side of the church we pass through a high railing (1773) into the Capilla Real (adm., see p. 60), a Renaissance edifice by Gainza and others (1551–75), on the site of the old royal vaults. By the entrance, right and left, are the tombs of Alfonso the Wise (d. 1284) and his mother Queen Beatrice of Swabia. In the apse is preserved the reliquary of St. Ferdinand (Ferdinand III. of Castile; p. 69), who, as well as Pedro I., is interred in the ‘Panteón’ under the chapel.

In the N. aisle, beyond the Puerta del Lagarto (p. 63) is the Capilla de los Evangelistas, whose altar-piece is by Ferd. Sturm (1559); on the predella, to the left, below, are SS. Justa and Rufina with the Giralda in its original form (p. 62). In the Capilla de Santiago (St. James) is a *Picture of that saint, by Juan de las Roelas (1609). Most famous of all is a **Murillo in the Capilla 65del Bautisterio (forenoon light best), the Infant Christ appearing to St. Antony of Padua (1656).

The Puerta del Sagrario, the last door on the N. side of the cathedral, leads into the Sagrario, built as a parish-church in the baroque style in 1618–62, with a single vault 75 ft. high. The altar-piece on the left is a fine half-figure of the Mater Dolorosa by Montañés.

b. The Central and Eastern Quarters.

The lively Calle Génova or Cánovas del Castillo leads from the Cathedral to the Plaza de la Constitución (Pl. E, 3), the focus of the city traffic. On the right is the Audiencia, containing the law-courts; on the left, between this plaza and the large Plaza Nueva or de San Fernando (Pl. E, 4), rises the—

*Casa del Ayuntamiento (Pl. E, 4), or town-hall, a Renaissance edifice (1526–64) designed by Diego de Riaño (p. 64). The richly decorated S. part is one of the most charming creations of the plateresque style.

At the Audiencia begins the *Calle de las Sierpes (Pl. E, D, 3), or ‘street of serpents’, so named after the sign-board of an old inn. It contains the chief cafés and clubs and the largest shops, and it presents a very lively scene in the evening.

This street forms the best starting-point for a walk through the E. quarters of the town. The first lateral street on the right, the Calle Sagasta, leads to the church of San Salvador (Pl. D, E, 3), which contains a statue of Christ by Montañés (2nd altar on the right). From the S.E. angle of that church the Cuesta del Rosario leads to—

San Isidoro (Pl. E, 3), where at the high-altar a celebrated masterpiece by Roelas, the Death of St. Isidore (El Tránsito), was once closely studied by Murillo.—From San Isidoro the Calle Almirante Hoyos and Calle de Aguilas, which contain several fine patios, lead to the Plaza de Pilatos.

The *Casa de Pilatos (Pl. E, 2; adm., see p. 60), the property of the Duque de Medinaceli, was probably begun early in the 16th cent. by Christian-Moorish architects for the Ribera family. As a member of that family had been to Jerusalem, the building was popularly supposed to be a copy of Pilate’s house. The architecture shows a curious but harmonious blend of Moorish, Gothic, and Renaissance elements.

The beautiful Patio, with its colonnade and fountain, contains several antiques; in the angles are two excellent replicas of a statue of Athena, of the time of Phidias.—Adjoining the court, on the right, is the so-called Prætorium of Pilate, and straight in front are the Vestibule, with its superb azulejos, and the Chapel, with its charming Gothic-Moorish decoration. To the left of the vestibule is a room with azulejos and a rich 66artesonado ceiling.—A magnificent staircase, roofed by a much admired dome, ascends to the upper floor, which is not accessible.

From the Plaza de Pilatos we follow the Calle de Caballerizas and Calle Descalzos to the N.W. to the pretty Plaza de Argüelles (Pl. D, 2, 3). Here rises San Pedro, a Gothic church of the 14th cent., containing a fine timber ceiling and pictures by Pedro Campaña and Roelas (sacristan, Calle Doña María Coronel 1).

Following the Calle de la Imagen, and crossing the Mercado (Pl. D, 3), we reach the Calle Laraña.

The University (Pl. D, 3) now occupies an old Jesuit convent. The University Church (entered from the quadrangle; fee ½–1 p.), built in 1565–79 by Bartolomé Bustamante (?) for the Jesuits, in the Renaissance style, contains fine Renaissance monuments and several sculptures and paintings by Montañés, Alonso Cano, Roelas, and others.

The churches in the N.E. Quarter, such as Omnium Sanctorum (Pl. B, 3), San Marcos (Pl. C, 2), and Santa Marina (Pl. B, 2) still possess towers in the Moorish style, which were once the minarets of mosques.—The so-called Casa del Duque de Alba (Pl. C, 2), Calle de las Dueñas 5, a palace built for the Riberas (p. 65) in the Mudejar style after 1483, contains a court planted with palms and a staircase richly adorned with azulejos, but the house itself is not shown.

In the Calle de Santa Paula, a little to the E. of San Marcos, is the Convento de Santa Paula (Pl. C, 1, 2), a nunnery founded in 1476. The forecourt has a superb Gothic portal, with terracotta ornamentation by Franc. Nicoluso of Pisa and reliefs of saints by Pedro Millán (p. 63). The rich mural azulejos (16th cent.) in the church’ are well worth seeing.

In the Ronda de Capuchinos (Pl. A, 1, 2) there are considerable remains of the ancient City Wall, with its external towers and low parapet (‘barbacana’, after Byzantine models).

c. The Western and South-Western Quarters.

Starting from the small Plaza del Pacífico (Pl. D, 4), planted with orange-trees, we follow the Calle de San Pablo to the S.W. as far as the church of Santa Magdalena (Pl. D, 4) and then turn to the right into the Calle de Bailén. From this in turn we again diverge to the right and follow the Calle de Miguel de Carvajal to the Plaza del Museo (Pl. D, 5; officially, Plaza de la Condesa de Casa Galindo), in which rises a Bronze Statue of Murillo.

The *Museo Provincial (Pl. D, 5; adm., see p. 60), occupying an old monastery of Mercenarii (Convento de la Merced), contains the small Museo Arqueológico and the Museo de Pinturas, a famous picture-gallery. The gallery contains several valuable sculptures, but its chief treasure consists in 23 Murillos, mostly from the old Capuchin monastery (Pl. A, B, 1), depicting the legend of St. Francis of Assisi and the foundation of the Franciscan order.

A small court leads to the N. Cloisters, where the antiques (Roman, Visigothic, Moorish), along with some modern works, are exhibited. From the nearer aisle of the cloisters an azulejos-portal leads straight into the—

67Great Hall of the picture-gallery, once the convent-church. The **Murillos are all hung on the walls of the nave. On the S. wall, by the entrance, note specially the Concepción, the Annunciation, SS. Leander and Bonaventura, and the ‘Virgen de la Servilleta’, said to have been painted on a table-napkin. On the N. wall we note St. Felix of Cantalicio with the Infant Jesus, the *Almsgiving of St. Thomas of Villanueva, the great Conception, the Adoration or the Shepherds, and Christ on the Cross embracing St. Francis.

On the end-wall of the church is the Martyrdom of St. Andrew by Roelas. The transept and choir are hung with numerous pictures by Zurbarán (notably the Triumph of St. Thomas Aquinas, in the choir). Here, too, are several *Sculptures: Pietro Torrigiani, Virgin and Child, with the penitent St. Jerome (in terracotta); Montañés, wooden figures of the Virgin and Child, John the Baptist, and St. Dominicus.

A room on the Upper Floor contains modern pictures.

The Calle de los Reyes Católicos, in line with the Calle de San Pablo (p. 66), ends at the Puente de Isabel Segunda (Pl. F, 6), the chief bridge crossing to the suburb of Triana.

A little short of the bridge we turn to the left and follow the Paseo de Cristóbal Colón (Pl. E, F, 5, 4), skirting the left bank of the Guadalquivir and the quays. On the left lie the Bull Ring (Pl. F, 4, 5); then the pretty Plaza de Atarazanas (Pl. F, 4; Arabic Dâr as-San῾a, ‘arsenal’, ‘place of work’), on the site of the old Moorish wharf, where the great Artillery Arsenal (Maestranza), the Hospital de la Caridad, and the Custom House (Aduana), are now situated.

The Hospital de la Caridad (Pl. F, 4; adm., see p. 60), erected for the ‘brotherhood of charity’ (Hermandad de la Caridad) in 1661–4, possesses, in its baroque church, six far-famed **Murillos (1660–74). Two of these in particular are the delight and admiration of every beholder: Moses striking the Rock (Cuadro de las Aguas, or La Sed, ‘the thirst’) and the Feeding of the Five Thousand (Pan y Peces, ‘bread and fishes’). Besides these pictures there are, on the left, the Infant Christ, the Annunciation, and San Juan de Dios carrying sick persons into the hospital; on the right, the young John the Baptist. By tho high-choir are two singular but repulsive pictures by Juan Valdés Leal (1630–91), the Raising of the Cross and the Triumph of Death.

Near the S. angle of the Plaza, close to the river, rises the Torre del Oro (Pl. G, 4), once a fortified tower of the Moorish Alcázar (p. 61), and ever since called the ‘tower of gold’ on account of its brilliant azulejos. The upper part of the tower dates from the Christian period only; the window openings and the balconies were constructed in 1760.

Near the Torre del Oro begin the *Public Gardens of Seville, which, particularly in spring, when roses, camellias, and orange-blossom are in their glory, afford a delightful promenade. The favourite part is the Paseo de las Delicias (Pl. H, 3), beginning at the Palacio de Santelmo (Pl. G, 3; now a priests’ seminary), 68where the people of fashion drive on fine afternoons. On the way back we may walk through the Parque María Luisa (Pl. H, 2), once part of the Santelmo gardens, and regain the town by the Calle San Fernando, passing the great Tobacco Factory (Pl. G, 3), a huge baroque building of 1757.

8. From Seville to Cordova.

81½ M. Railway (Seville and Madrid Line) in 2¾–4¾ hrs. (fares 16 p. 40, 12 p. 30, 7 p. 40 c.); one train de luxe daily, 1st cl. only, fare 10 per cent higher. Trains start from the Estación de Córdoba.

Seville, see p. 59. We follow the Guadalquivir upstream, at some distance from its lofty reddish banks, which are visible at times. Nearing (13½ M.) Brenes we enjoy a last retrospect of the cathedral of Seville with the Giralda.

22 M. Tocina, the junction for Mérida and Lisbon. Beyond (25½ M.) Guadajoz we cross to the right bank of the Guadalquivir. 46½ M. Peñaflor, adjoining rapids of the river which drive large mills. 49 M. Palma del Río, at the confluence of the Guadalquivir with the Genil (p. 74). 67½ M. Almodóvar, with a loftily situated Moorish castle, now being restored.

81½ M. Cordova.—At the Station (Estación de Madrid, Sevilla y Málaga; Pl. B, C, 1; Rail. Restaur.) are omnibuses from the chief hotels.

Hotels (comp. p. 51; charges should be arranged beforehand). Hot. Suizo (Pl. a; C, 2), corner of Calle Duque de Hornachuelos and the narrow Calle Diego León, pens, from 12½ p., variously judged.—Less expensive: Hot. de Oriente (Pl. c; C, 2), pens. 8–10 p.; Hot. de España & Francia (Pl. b; C, 2), pens. 8 p.; Hot. Simón (Pl. d; C, 2), pens. 5–6 p., very fair; these three are in the Paseo del Gran Capitán; Cuatro Naciones, Calle San Miguel 4.

Cafés. Café-Restaur. Suizo, Calle Ambrosio de Morales (Pl. D, 3); La Perla, Calle del Conde de Gondomar No. 1, Cervecería Alemana No. 8.

Post & Telegraph Office (Pl. D, 3), Plazuela de Seneca.

British Vice-Consul, Richard Eshott Carr.

Half-a-Day, when time presses: Cathedral (open all day, except 12–2; closes 2 hrs. before sunset); visit to the Mihrâb, Renaissance choir, Mudejar chapel, etc., for which a permiso (2 p.) is obtained at the Oficina de la Obrería, adjoining the Puerta del Perdón; then the Guadalquivir Bridge, with the Calahorra; the Paseo del Gran Capitán and Jardines de la Victoria.

Cordŏva, Span. Córdoba (391 ft.), a provincial capital and the seat of a bishop, with 60,000 inhab., lies at the foot of the Sierra de Córdoba, a spur of the Sierra Morena, in a plain sloping gently down to the Guadalquivir. The town, whose ancient glory has long departed, now contains little or nothing to interest the expectant traveller except the mosque, now the Cathedral, which in spite of many later additions and disfigurements, is still the grandest monument in Spain of the Moorish period. Other memorials of this Mecca of the Occident, once famous as a patroness of science also, now survive only in several portals and inscriptions.

69Corduba, the most important of the ancient Iberian towns on the upper course of the Bætis, became a Roman colony in 152 B.C., and was noted for its commerce and its wealth. The Visigothic king Leovigild wrested it in 571 from the Byzantines and made it an episcopal see. After the decisive battle of 711 (p. 51) Cordova was captured by the Moors, aided by the Jews who were alienated by the arrogance of the Visigoths. With the Moorish sway begins the world-wide fame of the city, especially from the time when the emir Abderrahmân I., of the house of the Omaiyades (p. 485), on his escape from the massacre of his family at Damascus, settled at Cordova in 756 and declared his independence of the Oriental caliphate. As the capital of the Spanish or western caliphate, Cordova soon became the wealthiest city in Spain, and even for a short time the richest in Europe, notably under Abderrahmân II. (822–52) and Abderrahmân III. (912–61), the greatest of the Omaiyades, and also under the governor (hâjib) Al-Mansûr (d. 1002). It even rivalled Bagdad and Fez as a brilliant centre of Mohammedan culture, to which students flocked from every part of the Occident. At length, after the Almoravides and Almohades (p. 95), who had been summoned to aid the citizens against the Christians, had vainly attempted to arrest the decay of the city, Cordova fell, in 1236, into the hands of Ferdinand III. of Castile, who expelled the Moorish inhabitants and in 1248 made Seville his residence. The city afterwards fell into decay and poverty, and the once highly extolled Campiña became a desolate wilderness.

See ‘Cordova’, by A. F. Calvert and W. M. Gallichan (London, 1907).

From the Carrera de la Estación, or ‘station street’, bearing a little to the left, we enter the Paseo del Gran Capitán (Pl. C, 1, 2), the favourite promenade of the townsfolk on summer evenings.

At the S. end of the Paseo, near the church of San Nicolás de la Villa (Pl. C, 2), with its octagonal tower, once a minaret, we take the Calle del Conde de Gondomar to the left, and then, just short of the Hotel Suizo, follow the Calle de Jesús María (Pl. C, 2, 3) to the right. This street, continued by the Calle de Angel de Saavedra, the Calle Pedregosa, and the Calle Céspedes, leads to the S. to the cathedral.

The **Cathedral (Pl. C, 3, 4; adm., see p. 68), once the Mesjid al-Jâmia, or ‘chief mosque’ of the city, one of the greatest in the world, and still called La Mezquita, is the grandest and noblest creation of Moorish architecture in Spain. The mosque was founded by Abderrahmân I. in 785, on the site of a Christian church, and was intended to form a great religious centre for all believers in Spain, and to induce the great stream of western pilgrims to repair to Cordova instead of to Mecca. A model for the edifice was found in the arcaded courts and colonnaded halls of the Egyptian mosques (such as the Amru Mosque, p. 460). The original edifice contained only ten rows of columns, which formed eleven longitudinal and twelve transverse aisles. The central aisle was a little wider than the others and ended in a Mihrâb, or prayer-recess, designed to mark the direction of Mecca (Kibla). As the building soon proved inadequate for the population, which was rapidly increased by accessions from the East, Abderrahmân II., in 833–48, added seven transepts on the S. side and erected a new mihrâb. A further prolongation by fourteen transepts was effected by AlHâkim 70II. (961–76), after which the magnificent third mihrâb (mihrâb nuevo) formed the termination of the building. Though the mosque was now considered the finest in the Occident, rivalling the Kairuin mosque at Fez, it failed to satisfy the ambition of Al-Mansûr (p. 69). As the sloping ground on the S. side precluded extension in that direction, this governor, in 987–90, caused seven new rows of columns to be raised on the E. side, thus increasing the number of aisles to nineteen, but destroying the symmetrical plan of the building, which required the mihrâb, or holy of holies, to be in line with the main axis of the building.

After the conquest of Cordova by the Christians in 1236 (p. 69) the mosque was dedicated to the Virgin (Virgen de la Asunción). The Spaniards at first confined their operations to walling up most of the doors and then fitting up side-chapels along the walls. As the needs of the Christian ritual, however, soon demanded the construction of a choir (primitivo coro), part of the second mihrâb and the adjoining aisles had in 1260 to be demolished. Still greater damage was done by the insertion of the Renaissance choir in the centre of the building, and of the Sala Capitular, or sacristy, in the middle of the S. wall.

The Ground Plan forms an immense rectangle of about 575 by 427 ft., of which fully a third is occupied by the court. Court and church are surrounded by a fortress-like battlemented wall which, on three sides, rests on massive substructions. Nothing indicates the object of the building except the rich portals, flanked with niches and windows, and, on the N. side, adjoining the Calle del Obispo Herrero, the Campanario or bell-tower (305 ft. high), which was substituted for the Moorish minaret in 1593. Ascent of the tower interesting (adm. 25 c.; 255 steps).

The *Puerta del Perdón, the main gateway, restored in 1377 on the model of the gate of that name at Seville (p. 63), adjoins the clock-tower and leads into the—

*Patio de los Naranjos (‘orange-court’), once the court of the mosque, where the faithful performed their ablutions. Light and spacious, yet well-shaded by orange and palm-trees, watered by five fountains, and always enlivened with groups of quiet visitors, it presents a typical scene of Oriental repose. The avenues were originally laid out in line with the colonnades in the interior of the mosque. The old arcades of the court (claustro) are now walled up on the N. side. Of the nineteen gates on the S. side, two only, the Puerta de las Palmas, the chief entrance to the cathedral, and the small doorway of the eastmost colonnade are now open.

The *Interior of the Cathedral, in spite of its moderate height (37 ft.), and in spite of much disfigurement, is singularly impressive. In the subdued light the forest of columns seems endless. They average 13 ft. only in height, and are of the most diverse 71materials, many of them having been brought from late-Roman buildings or from Christian churches. The capitals show a marvellous wealth of design; their bases are buried in the pavement, the level of which has been raised by 11–14 inches in the course of centuries. The vast number of horseshoe arches which connect the columns, in the direction of the length of the church, and the upper semicircular arches resting on projecting pillars impart peculiar life to the building. The painted timber-ceilings of the different roofs have been restored in their original style. The sumptuous mosaic pavement has disappeared, and so too have the countless chandeliers and lamps which burned perpetually during the Moorish period.

The wealth of artistic decoration was lavished chiefly on the mihrâbs, the first of which has been entirely destroyed. The second and third were each provided with a vestibule and two side-rooms, part of which was formerly shut off to form the Caliph’s maksûra (or court-platform). The vestibule of the *Second Mihrâb, with its superb shell-vaulting, still exists.

The **Third Mihrâb is considered a marvel of art. The front is adorned with two rows of columns, one above the other, and with double toothed arches. The vestibule, now Capilla de San Pedro, and the prayer-niche itself, a kind of heptagonal chapel of barely 13 ft. in diameter, exhibit the most elaborate efforts of early-Moorish art, especially in the rich marble plinth and in the coloured glass mosaics executed by Byzantine artists. The toothed arches of the windows and the boldly interlacing arches of the superb dome point to a later high development of Moorish art.

Of the Christian Additions to the church one of the most noteworthy is the sumptuous Capilla Mudéjar de San Fernando, to the left of the second mihrâb, erected over the old royal vault. The *Renaissance Choir (Coro and Capilla Mayor), designed by Hernán Ruiz the Elder in 1523, was completed, with many alterations, in 1627. Though only 256 by 79 ft. in size, it is crowded with no less than 63 columns, and it rises high above the roof of the mosque. It is considered a masterpiece of the plateresque style, but has ruined the original symmetry of the mosque.

The Alcázar (Pl. C, 4; now a prison), erected in 1328, contains but scanty relics of the ancient Moorish castle.

The Calle Torrijos, on the W. side of the cathedral, descends to the Puerta del Puente, a triumphal arch of the time of Philip II., on the site of the Moorish bridge gateway. The Moorish *Bridge (Pl. C, D, 4) of sixteen arches, resting on Roman foundations, here unites Cordova with the S. suburb of Campo de la Verdad. Halfway across we have a fine view of the cathedral, and of a dam, up the river, with Moorish mills. The massive tête-de-pont, Calahorra (Iberian Calagurris), also is of Moorish origin.

72Returning into the town from the bridge, we may next visit the Puerta Almodóvar (Pl. B, 3), a relic of the Moorish city-wall, and then walk through the Jardines de la Victoria to the station.

9. From Cordova viâ Bobadilla to Granada.

153 M. Railway in 6¼–8½ hrs. (fares 36 p. 30, 28 p. 20, 19 p. 30 c.); express on Mon. & Frid. only; change at Bobadilla (Railway Restaurant). Beyond Bobadilla views to the right.

Cordova, see p. 68.—The train crosses the Guadalquivir and runs through a dreary hill-country (Campiña). Looking back, we see Cordova, the Sierra of Cordova, and Almodóvar (p. 68).

We cross the Guadajoz several times. Beyond (21 M.) Fernán Núñez the vine and olive culture begins. 31 M. Montilla (1165 ft.), once famed for its Amontillado, resembling the wine of Xeres (p. 59). Farther on, to the left, we have a view of the distant Sierra Nevada (p. 49).

47 M. Puente Genil (Rail. Restaur.). The town lies 2 M. to the N.W., and is seen to the right as we cross a lofty bridge over the Genil (see below). The train ascends to the plateau of the Sierra de Yeguas, in view, farther on, of abrupt Jurassic mountains.

62 M. La Roda, junction for Utrera. (Lines to Cadiz and Seville, see R. 6.)

Running to the S.W. the train soon reaches the watershed (1477 ft.) between the Guadalquivir and the Guadalhorce. Beyond (69½ M.) Fuente Piedra we observe on the right the Laguna Salada, a salt-lake resembling the shotts of N. Africa (p. 169).

77 M. Bobadilla, see p. 57.

The Granada train diverges to the N.E. from the Málaga line (R. 11), and ascends the broad valley of the Guadalhorce. On the right soon appears the Sierra de Abdalajis.

87 M. Antequera (1346 ft.; Fonda de la Castaña and others), the Roman Anticaria, lies picturesquely at the N. base of the hills, with a ruined Moorish castle. The Cueva de Menga, 10 min. to the E. of the town, is one of the largest dolmens in Spain.

99½ M. Archidona; the town lies on a hill, 3¾ M. to the S.—We next cross the watershed between the Guadalhorce and the Genil and descend through several tunnels. After the third the snow-covered Sierra Nevada suddenly appears towards the E.

121 M. Loga, the Lôsha of the Moors, together with Alhama, a little town on the hill 12½ M. to the S.E., once ‘the keys of Granada’, were captured by the Catholic kings (p. 75) in 1488.

73The country is now hilly and at places sandy; the Genil with its Vega (p. 73) remains on the right. 132 M. Tocón, at the foot of the Sierra de Prugo, On the left rises the bare Sierra de Parapanda, which the natives of Granada regard as a barometer. 144 M. Pinos Puente, at the foot of the barren Sierra de Elvira.

We next enter the fertile Vega, enclosed by olive-clad hills. 148 M. Atarfe, station for Santa Fe, 3 M. to the S.W., on the left bank of the Genil, built in the form of a Roman camp by Isabella the Catholic during the siege of Granada. The capitulation was signed here in 1491 (p. 75), and so too, in 1492, was the contract with Columbus regarding his voyage of discovery (p. 5).

In the foreground appears the lofty Albaicín (p. 74); then, overtopped by the Sierra Nevada, (153 M.) Granada (see below).

10. Granada.

The Station (Estación de los Ferrocarriles Andaluces; Pl. B, 6; no buffet) is 1¾ M. from the hotels in the Puerta Real and nearly 2 M. from those near the Alhambra. Hotel-omnibus to the former 1, to the latter 2 p.; an ‘omnibus general’ (50 c. each pers. or each trunk) plies to the Despacho Central (p. 51), opposite the Hot. Victoria.

Hotels (comp. p. 51). Near the Alhambra, in the Alhambra Park, a beautiful, but in winter a cold situation, ¾ M. above the town (2–3 min. from the hill-tramway station; see below): Hot. Washington Irving (Pl. b; F, 2), with the dépendance Siete Suelos (Pl. c; F, 2), patronized by English and Americans; Alhambra Palace Hotel (Pl. a; F, 3), new, R. 6–12½, pens. 20–35 p.; *Pens. Miss Laird, Carmen de Bella Vista, with garden, 8½–12 p. per day; Hot. del Bosque de la Alhambra, at the N. base of the Alhambra Hill, below the Torre de Comares (Pl. E, 2), pens. 8–15 p., well spoken of.—In the Town (ca. 1¾ M. from the Alhambra): *Hot. Alameda (Pl. d; F, 5), adjoining the shady Carrera del Genil, with view of the Sierra Nevada, pens. 8–20 p.; Hot. de Paris (Pl. e; E, 4), Gran Via de Colón 5, with terrace, restaurant, etc., pens. 9–20 p.; Hot. Victoria, on the W. side of the Puerta Real, with fine view, pens. from 8 p., Spanish, quite good; Hot. Nuevo Oriente (Pl. g; E, 5), Plaza de Cánovas del Castillo 8, pens. 7 p., quite Spanish, very fair; Fonda Navío, Calle Martínez Campos (Pl. E, 5), with a favourite restaurant.—Drinking-water not good.

Cafés. Café Colón, Calle de los Reyes Católicos (Pl. E, 4); Imperial, Carrera del Genil (Pl. F, 5).

Tramways. 1. Plaza Nueva (Pl. E, 4)-Cocheras (red disc): through the Calle de los Reyes Católicos (Pl. E, 4, 5) to the Puerta Real, the University (Pl. D, 5), and the Rail. Station (Pl. B, A, 6).—2. Plaza Nueva-Cervantes (yellow): viâ the Puerta Real and the Carrera del Genil to the Paseo de la Bomba (Pl. G, H, 4).—3. Puerta Real (Pl. E, 5)-Vistillas-Alhambra (green): viâ the Plaza Nueva to the Puerta de los Molinos (Pl. G, 3; change), then by the hill-tramway (rack-and-pinion) to the Alhambra Park (Cuesta de las Cruces; Pl. F, 2, 3), in ¼ hr.; fare 30 c.

Cabs (stationed in the Carrera del Genil). Drive in the town, with one horse 1, with two horses 2½ p.; per hour 2 or 3 p.—To the Alhambra, Albaicín (p. 79), and Sacro Monte (p. 78) 5 p. extra (but bargain advisable). Carr. and pair may be had also from the Despacho Central or the Alhambra hotels (3 p. per hour).

Post & Telegraph Office (Correo; Pl. E, 4), Calle de los Reyes Católicos. Post-office open 10–12 and after 2; poste restante letters delivered 1 hr. after arrival of trains.

British Vice-Consul, Chas. E. S. Davenhill.

74Sights. Alhambra (p. 79), daily, 9–12 and 1–6, adm. 50 c.–1 p., on Sun. free; some rooms specially shown by the custodian.—Generalife (p. 87), best by morning light; tickets (papeletas) at the Casa de los Tiros (p. 77), on week-days, 9–11, free.—The Cathedral (p. 76), daily, closed between 11 and 2.30; the Capilla Real (p. 76), either in the morning before high-mass (in winter at 10, in summer at 9), or 2.30 to 4, in summer 3–5 p.m.—The smaller churches are usually open from an early hour till 8.30 or 9 only, but are shown later by the sacristan (fee).—The usual hours for other sights are 8–12 and 2–6; between 12 and 2 a substantial fee is exacted.

Promenades. In winter, Carrera del Genil (p. 77), 3–5; in summer, Paseo del Salón (p. 77) and Paseo de la Bomba, 5–7. Band on Sun. and Thurs.

Guides at the hotels, needless except when time presses. Those who pester strangers in the streets and at the entrance to the Alhambra, as well as gipsy beggars, should be disregarded.

Chief Attractions (two days). 1st. Forenoon: the Cathedral (p. 76); Placeta de la Lonja (p. 77); Casa de los Tiros (p. 77); Carrera del Genil; *Paseo del Salón; afternoon: Alameda del Darro (p. 78); *View from San Nicolás (p. 79) or from San Miguel el Alto (p. 79).—2nd. *Alhambra (p. 79) and Generalife (p. 87).

Granáda (2195 ft.; pop. 69,000), once the capital of the Moorish kingdom, and now that of the province of Granada, the residence of an archbishop and seat of a university, lies most picturesquely at the foot of two hills (about 490 ft. high), which gradually slope to the E. up to the Cerro del Sol, and descend abruptly to the fertile, well-watered river-plain of the Vega. The Albaicín, the northmost of the two hills, the oldest quarter of Granada, once the residence of the Moorish aristocracy, but now inhabited chiefly by gipsies, forms a town by itself. The deep ravine of the Darro, which is generally dry as its water is much diverted for irrigation purposes, separates the Albaicín from the Monte de la Assabica, or Alhambra Hill to the S. (comp. p. 79). The Darro, descending from the N.E., turns to the S. near the Alhambra Hill and falls into the more important Genil.

The two hills were once occupied by Iberian and then by Roman settlements, the one on the Albaicín having perhaps already borne the name of Garnata. Soon after 711 the Moors built the ‘Old Castle’ (Al-Kasaba al-Kadîma) on the site of Garnata. After the decline of the caliphate of Cordova (p. 69) Zâwi ibn Zîri, the governor of Granada, declared himself independent in 1031, and founded here the dynasty of the Zirites, which, however, was overthrown by the Almoravides (p. 95) in 1090. As the power of the Almohades (p. 95) declined the native governors revolted anew. At length in 1246 Granada became the seat of the Nasride Dynasty founded by Al-Ahmar (‘Mohammed I.‘), which, after the fall of Seville, succeeded, in alliance alternately with the Castilians and the Merinides (p. 95), in retaining possession of Granada, Málaga, and Almería for nearly 250 years. Mohammed I. offered an asylum in Granada to the Moors who were expelled from Cordova, Valencia, and Seville, and began the building of the ‘New 75Castle’ (Al-Kasaba al-Jedîda) on the hill of the Alhambra. His successors afterwards created the Alhambra Palace, the most sumptuous of royal residences. Thanks to their fostering care for agriculture and industry, for science, art and architecture, Granada attained such brilliant prosperity as even to eclipse the fame of the old caliphate of Cordova.

The downfall of the kingdom of Granada was at length brought about by party struggles between the Zegri, the Beni Serrâj (the Abencerrages of legend; comp. p. 84), and other noble families, and by quarrels between king Mulei Abu’l-Hasan (d. 1485) and his son Boabdil; a welcome opportunity was thus afforded to Ferdinand and Isabella, the so-called ‘Catholic Kings’, of intervening and thus gaining their life-long object of destroying the last Moorish kingdom in Spain. After the death of his father Boabdil remained inactive when Ferdinand proceeded to besiege Málaga (p. 90); he made one despairing attempt at resistance when the Spaniards demanded the evacuation of Granada, but in 1491 had to conclude a humiliating peace. He soon afterwards crossed the Sierra Nevada and retired to Tlemcen in N. Africa (p. 187), where he ended his inglorious career. With the Spanish domination began the decay of the city; it was depopulated by the decrees of the Catholic Kings, the Inquisition held fearful sway here, and ere long Granada became a ‘living ruin’. Within the last few years, however, the busy tourist traffic, the establishment of sugar-factories, and the prosperous mining industry of the Sierra Nevada have somewhat repaired the fortunes of the city, and several of the old quarters have been entirely modernized. But its picturesque history, its memorials of the most glorious period of Moorish culture and art, and the striking view of the snow-mountains it affords will ever render it the most fascinating goal of travellers in Andalusia.

See ‘Granada: Memories, Adventures, Studies, and Impressions’, by Leonard Williams (London, 1906); and ‘Granada and the Alhambra’, by A. F. Calvert (London, 1907).

a. The Lower Town.

Leaving the railway-station (Pl. B, 6; tramway No. 1, see p. 73), we follow the Calle Real de San Lázaro to the S.E. to the Paseo del Triunfo (Pl. C, 4), so named from the column in honour of the Virgin (triunfo). Here, by the half-ruined Puerta de Elvira (Pl. C, 4), begin the old Calle de Elvira and the new Gran Via de Colón (Pl. C-E, 4), both leading to the chief artery of traffic, the narrow—

Calle de los Reyes Católicos (Pl. E, 4, 5), which is built above the Darro, and connects the busy Puerta Real (Pl. E, 5), to the S.W., with the Plaza Nueva (Pl. E, 4; officially, Plaza Rodriguez Bolivar), to the N.E., at the foot of the Alhambra Hill (p. 79).

76In the Calle de Lopez Rubio, a side-street, is the so-called Casa del Carbón, once a Moorish granary, with picturesque horseshoe arches and stalactite vaulting. To the S.W. of it is the modern town-hall (Ayuntamiento).

The short streets on the opposite side lead to the Alcaicería, (Pl. E, 4, 5), with its numerous columns, which was burned down in 1843, once a Moorish market-hall (Al-Kaisariya), resembling the Oriental sûks (p. 335), and to the modernized Plaza de Bibarrambla (Pl. E, 5), named after a Moorish city-gate which once stood here. A few paces from these lies the Placeta de las Pasiegas. Here, surrounded by buildings which mar its effect, rises the—

*Cathedral (Pl. D, E, 4, 5), an imposing memorial of the conquest of Spain, and the finest Renaissance church in the kingdom. It was begun in 1523 by Enrique de Egas in the Gothic style, continued in 1525 by Diego de Siloe (d. 1533) in the plateresque style (p. 51), and consecrated, while still unfinished, in 1561. The N. tower only, which is now 187 ft. high, has been erected; the huge façade was begun in 1667 by Alonso Cano, who was also the chief author of the sculpture and painting in the church; the interior was not completed till 1703.

Two of the Side Portals, the Puerta de San Jerónimo, the first entrance to the N. in the Calle de Jiménez de Cisneros, and the Puerta del Colegio, on the E. side of the ambulatory, are adorned with sculptures by Siloe and others. The *Puerta del Perdón, the second portal to the N., also owes the beautiful ornamentation of its lower part to Siloe.

The *Interior (adm., see p. 74) has double aisles with two rows of chapels, a lofty transept which does not project beyond the side-walls, a central choir, and a Capilla Mayor with ambulatory. The vaulting, 100 ft. in height, is borne by massive pillars and half-columns. Total length 380, breadth 220 ft. The decoration in white and gold harmonizes well with the fine marble pavement (1775).

The *Capilla Mayor, 148 ft. long and 154 ft. high, is crowned with a dome resting on Corinthian columns. On the pillars in front of the marble high-altar are kneeling statues of the ‘Catholic Kings’, by Pedro de Mena and Medrano (1677); above them are painted *Busts of Adam and Eve, in oak, by Alonso Cano, who painted also the representation of the Seven Joys of Mary.

Side Chapels. The Capilla de San Miguel, on the right, lavishly decorated in 1807, contains a picture by Al. Cano, the Mater Dolorosa (after Gasp. Becerra).—In the Capilla de la Trinidad, beyond the door of the Sagrario (p. 77), is a painting of the Trinity by Al. Cano.—The Altar de Jesús Nazareno contains *Pictures by Dom. Theotocópuli (St. Francis) and Ribera; the fine Bearing of the Cross is by Al. Cano.—By the same artist are also the fine oaken busts of St. Paul and John the Baptist in the Capilla de Nuestra Señora del Carmen, adjoining the N. aisles.

From the first chapel in the ambulatory, to the right of the Puerta del Colegio, a portal by Siloe leads through an ante-room (antesacristía) into the Sacristy (18th cent.), containing a crucifix by Montañés (p. 61) and an Annunciation and a Conception (a sculpture) by Al. Cano.

A handsome portal leads from the right transept into the late-Gothic *Capilla Real, the burial-chapel of the ‘Catholic Kings’, where Charles V. caused his parents Philip of Austria and Juana the Insane also to be interred. The marble *Monuments are in the Italian early-Renaissance style: on the right those of Ferdinand and Isabella, by the Florentine Domenico 77Fancelli; on the left, Philip and Juana, by Bartolomé Ordóñez. The high-altar, with the kneeling statuettes of the ‘Catholic Kings’, is by Philip Vigarní, a Burgundian; the reliefs in wood, historically interesting, represent (left) the surrender of the Alhambra keys and (right) the compulsory baptism of the Moors. Behind the reliquary altars, which are opened on four festival-days only, are hung Madonnas by Dierick Bouts, altar-wings by Roger van der Weyden, a Madonna and a Descent from the Cross by Memling, and other pictures. Over an altar in the right aisle is a *Winged Picture by D. Bouts.

The third great addition to the cathedral, the Sagrario, erected as a parish church in 1705–59, occupies the site of the ancient mosque, with its eleven aisles, which was used for Christian worship down to 1661.

The picturesque Placeta de la Lonja (Pl. E, 4), on the S. side of the cathedral, affords a good view of the Lonja (Exchange), built in 1518–22, which stands before the Sagrario, of the rich architecture of the Capilla Real, and of the—

Casa del Cabildo Antigua, once the seat of the Moorish university founded here after the downfall of Cordova and Seville, afterwards the residence of the ‘Catholic Kings’, and now a cloth magazine. Its fantastic exterior dates from the 18th cent.; in the interior are two interesting rooms of the Moorish period (fee 50 c.).

From the E. end of the Calle de los Reyes Católicos (p. 75) the Calle Castro y Serrano and Calle Doctor Eximio lead to the right to the Casa de los Tiros (Pl. E, 4), a building in the Moorish castellated style, dating from the 15th cent., and now owned by the Marquesa de Campotéjar. The court contains a venerable tree-like vine. Tickets for the Generalife (comp. p. 74) are issued here.

The Calle de Santa Escolástica leads hence to the Plaza de Santo Domingo (Pl. F, 4) and the old monastery of Santo Domingo (now a military school), with its pleasing church (15–17th cent.).—A little to the S.W. is the—

Cuarto Real de Santa Domingo (Pl. F, 4; admittance seldom granted), the Al-Majarra of the Moors, now named after a tower of the 13th cent., a superb villa with a Moorish portal and a hall whose charming decoration is older than the Alhambra. The beautiful garden is said to have been laid out in Moorish times.

We now cross the Plaza Bailén to the N.W. to the favourite winter promenade (p. 74), the Carrera del Genil (Pl. E-G, 5), shaded with plane-trees, which begins at the Puerta Real (p. 75) and now comprises the former Alameda. Adjoining the Carrera on the left is the—

*Paseo del Salón (Pl. G, 5, 4). planted with elms and adorned with a bronze statue of Isabella the Catholic. Delightful view to the N.E. of Monte Mauror with the Torres Bermejas (p. 80); to the S.E. towers the majestic Sierra Nevada, from whose rocky crest the Picacho de la Veleta (11,148 ft.), the grandest point of view in all Andalusia, alone rises conspicuously.

At the mouth of the Darro Valley lies the Plaza Nueva (Pl. E, 4; p. 75), another focus of traffic (tramways, see p. 73). On the left is the Audiencia, formerly the Chancilleria, built in 1531–87 for the Capitán General or governor. The pretty arcaded court was probably designed by Diego de Siloe (p. 76).

A few paces farther to the E. the Darro is not covered in. Here, on the right, on the site of an old mosque, is the church of Santa Ana (Pl. E, 3), a Renaissance building, perhaps designed by Diego de Siloe in 1541, with a fine plateresque portal and an admirable timber ceiling. The tower, built by Juan Castellar in 1561–3, with its azulejos and jutting roof resting on corbels, resembles a minaret.

Opposite the church, on the right bank of the Darro, begins the Carrera del Darro (Pl. E, 3, 2), one of the oldest parts of Granada, affording picturesque views, notably of the towers and walls of the Alhambra, which had its oldest approach from this quarter. (Part of a horseshoe arch of the bridge is seen on the left bank.) The Bañuelo, at No. 37, now occupied by poor families, is a Moorish bath, dating perhaps from the 11th century.

On the right side of the street we come to the church of San Pedro y San Pablo (Pl. E, 3, 2), with its fine timber ceiling. On the opposite bank of the Darro we observe traces of the landslip under the N.E. corner of the Alcazaba (p. 81), below which are the arches of an aqueduct. To the N. of the church is the Casa de Castril, a curious Renaissance building with an ornate portal by a pupil of Siloe.

We next reach the Alameda del Darro (Pl. E, 2), planted with elms; above us, on the right, is the Generalife (p. 87); on the left, Albaicín (p. 79). Crossing the bridge to the right we enter the steep Cuesta del Rey Chico (Pl. F, 2), which leads through the ravine mentioned at p. 79, and past the Moorish towers of the Alhambra, to the Puerta de Hierro (p. 87), the E. gate of the Alhambra, and to the Generalife.

From the Darro the Cuesta del Chapiz (Pl. E, D, 2) ascends to the N. to the old suburb of Albaida. The street is named after the Casa del Chapiz, erected early in the 16th cent. in the Mudejar style for two Morisco nobles, with two separate patios. The house, now a bakery, is entered from No. 14, at the corner of the Camino del Sacro Monte.

From this point the Camino del Sacro Monte (Pl. D, 2, 1) ascends the cactus-grown slope. The numerous poor Cuevas, or cave-dwellings, are chiefly occupied by gipsies (gitanos). The path ends at the (25 min.) Sacro Monte (to the N.E. of Pl. D, E, 1), a Benedictine monastery of the 17th cent., now a divinity and law school. 79The view of the Alhambra across the Darro valley, of the town and the Vega, is one of the finest near Granada.

Footpaths ascend from the Cuesta del Chapiz in 25 min., and from the Sacro Monte in ¾ hr., partly through deep gorges, to the chapel of San Miguel el Alto (Pl. D, 1), in the midst of aloes and cacti, where we enjoy a grand *View of the Alhambra, the town, the Vega, and the Sierra Nevada.

The side-streets of the Carrera del Darro (p. 78) ascend to the N. to Albaicín, a poor suburb (p. 74). Not far from San Pedro y San Pablo (p. 78) is the small Gothic church of San Juan de los Reyes (Pl. D, 2), an early 16th cent. edifice, whose tower was once a minaret.

Above this church, and of like date, is the Gothic church of San Nicolás (Pl. D, 2), also built on Moorish foundations, and containing a fine timber ceiling. The famous *View of the Alhambra and the Sierra Nevada is a favourite subject with artists. The Puerta de los Estandartes (Pl. D, 3), close by, is a relic of the Moorish Castle Wall, which runs down hence to the Puerta Monáita (Pl. C, 3, 4). On the N. side the Cuesta de la Alacaba (Pl. D, C, 3, 4) descends to the Paseo del Triunfo (p. 75).

On the way back to the Plaza Nueva we pass the Franciscan nunnery of Santa Isabel la Real (Pl. D, 3), whose church has a tasteful late-Gothic portal by Enrique de Egas.

c. The Alhambra.

The Alhambra occupies the plateau, 795 by 195 yds., of the Monte de la Assabica (p. 74), which rises abruptly from the Darro on the N. side, while on the S. it is separated by a gorge, the Assabica of the Moors, from the lower spur of the Monte Mauror (Pl. F, 3; p. 80). The axis of this range of hills is abruptly intersected by a second gorge, the Cuesta del Rey Chico (p. 78), separating it on the E. side from the Cerro del Sol (p. 87), at the foot of which lies the Generalife (p. 87). On the narrow W. point of the plateau stands the castle of Alcazaba. Beyond the small glacis on its E. side, and beyond the Plaza de los Aljibes, rises the Alhambra itself, adjoining which, on the S.E., lies the Alta Alhambra, once quite a little town, where the retinue and servants of the court resided. The whole of these buildings, enclosed by a wall with numerous towers, were called by the Moors Medînat al-Hamrâ, literally ‘red city’, from the colour of its stone.

The History of the Alhambra begins with Mohammed I. (1232–72), the first Nasride sovereign. While the Zirites resided on the Albaicín hill (comp. p. 74), Mohammed chose the Alhambra Hill as a site for his 80palace. The building was continued by his son Mohammed II. (1272–1302), and the Alhambra mosque (p. 86) was erected by Mohammed III. (1302–9). Abu’l-Walîd Ismaîl (1309–25) was the first to erect a small palace outside of the Alcazaba, but this, with the exception of the Patio del Mexuar (p. 85), was taken down by Yûsuf I. (1333–54). Yûsuf began the stately Comares or myrtle-court palace, with its throne and audience room; to him are ascribed also the Comares tower (p. 83), the baths (p. 85), and the enclosing wall of the Alhambra Hill, with 23 additional towers. For the more sumptuous part of the pile Mohammed V. (1354–91) was chiefly responsible. To him was due the completion of the Myrtle Court, the erection of the Cuarto de Machuca, the summer abode of part of the family, and of the luxurious lion-court palace, the winter dwelling of the court and of the sovereign’s harem. The last Moorish king who made additions to the Alhambra was Mohammed VII. (1392–1408).

The ‘Catholic Kings’, as Ferdinand and Isabella are styled, took a great interest in the Alhambra; they restored the decorations of the interior and strengthened the walls. Charles V. visited Granada in 1526, but with less satisfactory results. Although an enthusiastic admirer of Moorish art, he caused many outbuildings of the Alhambra to be removed to make way for his new palace (p. 86). At length, after 1718, when Philip V. discontinued the payment of money for the upkeep of the buildings, they rapidly fell into decay, and in 1812 the French, on their retreat, blew up several of the towers. Since 1830, however, the work of restoration, though sometimes in doubtful taste, has been resumed.

It is hardly necessary to remind our readers of Washington Irving’s delightful ‘Tales of the Alhambra’, which were partly written on the spot. A series of magnificent views of the Alhambra is given in the monumental work of Jules Goury and Owen Jones, published at London in 1842. See also ‘The Alhambra’ by A. F. Calvert (2nd ed., London, 1907).

The Hill Tramway (rack-and-pinion; p. 73) ascends from the Puerta de los Molinos (Pl. G, 3) on the S. slope of Monte Mauror, affording a splendid view of Granada, the Vega, and the Sierra Nevada on the left, to the Cuesta de las Cruces (p. 81) in the Alhambra Park, a few minutes’ walk from the entrance of the Alhambra.

The shortest Road to the Alhambra is the Calle de Gomeres (Pl. E, 4, 3), which ascends steeply from the Plaza Nueva to the S.E., between the hills of the Alcazaba and the Torres Bermejas, to the Puerta de las Granadas, the present chief entrance to the Alhambra Park.

The Puerta de las Granadas (Pl. 1; E, 3), erected by Pedro Machuca (p. 86), in the form of a triumphal arch, on the site of the Moorish Bîb Alaujar, occupied the centre of the wall connecting the Alcazaba with the Torres Bermejas, the fortifications on the W. point of the Monte Mauror, which were built at the same period as the Alcazaba, but have been frequently restored.

The *Torres Bermejas (Pl. F, 3; ‘red towers’), now a military prison, deserve a visit, which may be best paid on the way back from the Alhambra or the Generalife. The path diverges from the Cuesta de las Cruces (p. 81) a few paces to the E. of the Puerta de las Granadas. Adm. on application at the guard-house. The extensive buildings, with their underground stabling, the cistern, and the casemates, convey an excellent idea of an ancient Moorish fortress. Stairs, rather steep, ascend to the platform (azotea) on the chief tower, where we obtain a most picturesque view.

The *Alhambra Park (Alameda de la Alhambra; Pl. F, 3, 2), a ‘sacred grove’ unique of its kind, occupies the Assabica Valley 81(p. 79), reaching far up its slopes. It was planted at the end of the 18th cent. with elms exclusively, placed so close together as to form one dense roof of leafage, the home of countless nightingales. In March, when the sun shines through the leafless branches, the soil is temporarily covered with rich vegetation.

From the Puerta de las Granadas three roads ascend to the Alhambra. To the right is the Cuesta de las Cruces, leading up the S. side of the park to the hill-tramway and the Alhambra Hotels (p. 73); to the left is the rather fatiguing Cuesta Empedrada, the old route to the castle, ending at the Puerta Judiciaria (see below); between these is the easy Main Road, passing three fountains, and also leading to the hotels, but connected by side-paths with the Puerta Judiciaria. Carriages use this road and pass through the Puerta del Carril (Pl. 6; F, 2).

The entrance-tower, with the *Puerta Judiciaria (Pl. 5; E, F, 3), which, according to the inscription, was erected in the reign of Yûsuf I. in 1348, and was called by the Moors Bîbush-Sheria (‘gate of justice’), deserves special attention. Like many of the Alhambra towers, this was really an independent building, the road between the gates of which was made tortuous for defensive purposes. About halfway up is the horseshoe-shaped Outer Gate, above which is seen a hand with outstretched fingers, a symbol often used in the East and in S. Europe to avert the evil eye. The Inner Gateway still has its old Moorish doors studded with iron.

A narrow passage ascends thence to the House of Gómes Tortosa (on the right; Pl. 7, E, 3), the conservator of the Alhambra. Into the N. wing is built the *Puerta del Vino, probably once the main W. entrance of the Alta Alhambra (p. 86). This gate seems to have been once connected by a wall with the Puerta de Hierro (p. 87), so as to shut off the Alcazaba, the palace, and the mosque from the Alhambra suburb.

At the top of the hill we enter the broad Plaza de los Aljibes (Pl. 8; E, 3), so named from the cistern (al-jibb) filled with water from the Darro. The level of the plaza was raised about 16 ft. when Charles V. built his palace, and it is now adorned with hedges of myrtle. On the E. side rise the Moorish palace (p. 82) and the handsome building erected by the emperor (p. 86); on our left is the E. front of the Alcazaba with two towers, the Torre Quebrada and the Torre del Homenaje, 85 ft. in height (Pl. 10, 11; E, 3); to the N. we look down into the Darro Valley.

The Alcazaba (Pl. E, 3; Arabic Al-Kasaba, ‘the citadel’) stands about 460 ft. above the Plaza Nueva (p. 78). Except on the E. the hill falls away abruptly on all sides, and so suddenly on the N.E., in consequence of a landslip, that the castle-wall seems endangered. The only entrance to the castle is now the Puerta de la Alcazaba (Pl. 9; E, 3), at the S.W. angle of the Plaza de los Aljibes. The 82interior of the castle is now occupied by gardens. Of the original building scarcely anything remains except the ruined enclosing wall, with its huge towers and external terraces (Adarves). At several points the masonry resembles the concrete work of the Romans (p. 290).

At the W. extremity of the Alcazaba stands the ‘watch-tower’, the *Torre de la Vela (Pl. 13; E, 3), the Ghafar of the Moors, on which the three ‘pendones’ of Ferdinand and Isabella were displayed for the first time on 2nd Jan., 1492.

The Vela Tower commands a very extensive *View (doorkeeper 30 c.). At our feet lies the entire city; to the left, beyond the Alhambra Park, rise the Torres Bermejas; to the right, beyond the Darro, is the Albaicín; in front of us extends the almost circular green Vega, enclosed by brown and sun-scorched ranges of hills; to the S.E. towers the Sierra Nevada; to the S. and S.W. rise the Sierra de Almijara, Sierra Tejea, and Sierra de Alhama; to the W. are Santa Fe (p. 73) and the hills of Loja (p. 72); then, to the N.W., are the Sierra de Parapanda (p. 73), Sierra de Elvira, and other hills. Lastly, to the E., we see the Moorish Alhambra and the palace of Charles V., the church of Santa María (p. 86), the Generalife (p. 87), and the Silla del Moro (p. 88).

The *Jardín de los Adarves (Pl. 15; E, 3), the S. terrace, overgrown with venerable ivy and vines, is entered by a small door (recognized by the iron scallop-shells on it) to the left of the Alcazaba gate. The view is most picturesque, especially towards evening.

The Moorish **Alhambra Palace (adm., see p. 74), commonly known as the Casa Real, adjoins the N.E. angle of the Plaza de los Aljibes. Like other Moorish secular buildings it is externally insignificant, and it is quite eclipsed by the huge palace of Charles V. (p. 86). Like the ancient Greek and Roman dwelling-houses it is entirely closed on the outside, while all the rooms open on an internal court as a common centre. When the house was enlarged a new court had to be added, and so too the kings of Granada built palace after palace, each with its own court and separate entrance.

On these buildings the highest efforts of Moorish art have been expended. Their structural value is small; the materials, chiefly wood and plaster, lack solidity, being often used for effect only; while architectural rules are constantly violated. But the ingenious disposition of the rooms and their sumptuous ornamentation, whose fairy-like effect is too often marred by decay or by faulty restoration, are unrivalled. The slender marble columns by which the light walls are supported recall the tent-poles of the nomads, while the mural decoration with its arabesques and flourishes reminds one of an Oriental carpet. Very curious too is the ‘stalactite’ vaulting, formed by minute and countless projections of the walls, ranged one above the other without visible support. The Semitic abhorrence of any representation of living beings accounts 83for the absence of sculpture, but some food for reflection was afforded by the inscriptions with which all the wall-spaces are framed, partly in the venerable Cufic characters (p. 150), partly in Andalusian flowing letters, extolling Allah and the reigning family.

The present low-lying Entrance (Entrada Moderna), adjacent to the emperor’s palace, leads into the—

*Myrtle Court (Patio de la Alberca or de los Arrayanes), which belongs to the Comares palace (p. 80), and derives its name from the myrtle-hedges (mesas de arrayanes) around its pond (alberca). The court is 121 ft. long and 75 ft. in breadth. At its N.E. end rises the Comares tower (see below); to the S.W. it is overlooked by Charles V.’s palace, which stands about 16 ft. higher. At each end of the court is a beautiful arcade, borne by six slender marble columns and paved with marble; that at the S.W. end, with its upper gallery, open at the top, deserves special admiration. At the N.E. end the arcades terminate in curious niches (Arabic ar-hanîya) with stalactite vaulting, once coloured blue.

The first door on the N.W. side of the court leads into the custodian’s rooms, and the next but one into the Patio del Mexuar (p. 85); opposite the latter door, from the S.E. wall of the court, stairs (generally closed) descend to the Baths (p. 85). Opposite the entrance of the palace is a door leading into the Sala de los Mocárabes (p. 84) and the Lions’ Court (p. 81). The stairs in the S.W. angle of the court lead into the interior of Charles V.’s palace (p. 86).

An ornate horseshoe arch at the N.E. end of the court gives access to the ante-room of the Comares Tower, the Sala de la Barca, whose barrel-vaulting was destroyed by a fire in 1899. By the entrance are two niches for water-vessels. The wall of the tower is pierced with a superb archway, right and left of which are two other fine niches.

The ruinous Torre de Comares, 148 ft. in height, built, it is said, by workmen from Comares, and crowned, with modern pinnacles, contains the—

**Hall of the Ambassadors (Sala de los Embajadores), a room in two stories, 36 ft. square and 59 ft. high, once the royal reception room. The last meeting of the Moors under Boabdil, before the capitulation of Granada, was held here in 1491. Inscriptions record that Yûsuf I. was the builder. The larch-wood dome of the hall has been compared to the facetted surface of a cut diamond. The immense thickness of the walls is apparent from the depth of the window-niches, each of which affords a different view. The central windows (so-called Ajimez, Arabic khamsîya) are each divided into two by a slender column. This hall is one of the most richly decorated in the Alhambra.

From the first window-niche on the right in the S.E. wall a passage leads to the Peinador de la Reina (p. 86) and to the lower floor.

We return to the Myrtle Court and (as indicated above) pass through the Sala de los Mocárabes into the—

84**Court of the Lions (Patio de Los Leones), which owes its name to the Fuente de los Leones, a famous fountain borne by twelve lions. The building was begun by Mohammed V. in 1377. The court, 92 by 52 ft., is bordered all round with a colonnade, from which at each end protrudes a superb domed pavilion. The columns are alternately single and grouped. The tasteful elegance of this court, originally shaded by six orange-trees, contrasts strikingly with the showy pomp of the Myrtle Court. The fretwork decoration in stucco looks like carved ivory. Besides the lion-fountain, the court contains, at the ends of the arcade, eight flat marble fountain-basins. The fountains play on a few festival-days only.

The Court of the Lions, whose upper floor contained the women’s apartments, restored in 1907, is adjoined by handsome rooms all round. On the N.W. side is the present ante-room of the court, called the—

Sala de los Mocárabes, 72 ft. long, but only 13 ft. wide. The handsome barrel-vaulting in the Renaissance style was added after an explosion of gunpowder in 1614, but remains of the old dome and mural decoration have been brought to light.

The *Hall of the Abencerrages, to the S.W. of the Lions’ Court, derives its name from a noble family (p. 75), whose leading members, as the story goes, were beheaded at the fountain in the centre of this hall on account of an intrigue of Hamet, their chief, with king Boabdil’s wife. We note specially the magnificent door of entrance, and the curious way in which it is fitted to the doorposts. The central part of the hall rises in three stories, upon which open two lower alcoves with beautiful toothed arches and coffered ceilings. Over the gallery of the second story eight stalactite pendentives form the transition to the sixteen-sided third story, whose windows diffuse a subdued light. Lastly, the hall is roofed with massive stalactite vaulting.

Adjoining the Hall of the Abencerrages, on the left and right, are the Patinillo and the Aljibe or cistern.

The *Sala de la Justicia (also called Sala del Tribunal or de los Reyes), on the S.E. side of the Court of the Lions, is a hall in seven sections, with three arched entrances from the court, each divided by two columns. Between these open sections, which are roofed with lofty domes lighted from above, are two lower chambers. Adjoining the ends and the E. side are side-rooms or alcoves, some of them dark. The whole of this hall, with its honeycomb vaulting and stalactite arches, presents the appearance of some fantastic grotto.

The three larger side-rooms have ceiling-paintings of the early 15th century. The central picture, which has given rise to the different names of the hall (‘hall of justice’, ‘hall of the kings’, etc.), probably represents the first ten kings of Granada, beginning with Mohammed I., or, according to others, a meeting of council, or a court of justice. The paintings in the two other alcoves depict hunting and jousting scenes.

85In the central alcove is a Moorish Trough (pila) of 1306, with curious reliefs of lions devouring stags, of eagles, etc.—The alabaster Tombstones in the alcove at the S.W. end of the hall are from the Rauda, the dilapidated royal vault of the Alhambra.

Opposite the Hall of the Abencerrages we ascend from the N.E. side of the Court of the Lions by a narrow passage (pasadizo) to the—

**Sala de las Dos Hermanas (Hall of the Two Sisters), which lies in the same axis as the Sala de los Ajimeces and Mirador de Daraxa, two other rooms situated at a higher level. This suite of rooms seems to have formed the winter residence of the ruler’s harem. The chief of these, whose ornamentation is perhaps the most exquisite in the Alhambra, has its name from the two marble slabs in the pavement. In particular we admire the beautiful doors, the mural decoration in stucco, and above all the honeycomb vaulting, the largest of all Arab roofs of the kind.

In a corner of the hall stands the *Alhambra Vase (‘el jarro de la Alhambra’), 4 ft. 5 in. in height, dating from 1320, and adorned with enamel, figures of animals (gazelles?), etc.

We next pass through the Sala de los Ajimeces, with its ajimeces (p. 83) and fine vaulting (a closed passage on the left leads hence to the Peinador de la Reina and the Patio de la Reja, p. 86), to the—

*Mirador de Daraxa (‘entrance-room’). This charming bay has three windows, reaching nearly to the ground and overlooking the Patio de Daraxa (p. 86).

We may now return through the Court of the Lions to the Myrtle Court, and from the N.W. side (as indicated at p. 83) of the latter descend through the Zaguán or forecourt to the Patio del Mexuar, lying 13 ft. lower. This is the oldest part of the Alhambra. On the N.E. side of the court is a pleasing Atrium, with columns and a horseshoe arch of 1522. The adjacent Cuarto Dorado also has Mudejar decoration of the time of Charles V.

The Mexuar (Arabic meshwâr, council-chamber), now the Capilla, was fitted up as such in 1537–44, but not used as the palace chapel till 1629. During the Moorish period it perhaps served as an audience chamber or law-court, and the gallery as a meeting-place for the council of state.—A modern door leads into the Mosala, the Moorish chapel built by Mohammed V., which belonged to the old Cuarto de Machuca (p. 80), now almost entirely occupied by gardens.

Nearly opposite the Christian Chapel in the Mexuar Court is the underground Viaduct leading to the Baths (right) and to the Patio de la Reja.

The extensive subterranean *Baths (Baños), to the N.E. of the Myrtle Court, in the style of those of ancient Rome (comp. p. 290), date from the time of Yûsuf I. The first room, now freely restored, 86resembling an Apodyterium, is the Sala de las Camas or de los Divanes, with two niches for couches, and is remarkable for its graceful superstructure. The gallery was destined for the singing girls. The chief bath-chamber (cuartos y sudoríficos) corresponds to the Tepidarium, and marble baths still exist. The heating apparatus (calorífero) has been destroyed.

From the Sala de las Camas we enter the *Patio de Daraxa (p. 85), planted with cypresses, formerly the inner garden of the palace, but altered by Charles V. Only the upper basin of the fountain is Moorish. The rooms on the upper floor (Aposentos de Carlos Quinto) contain the Alhambra archives.

The small Patio de la Reja, with its fountain and four cypresses, so called from its window-gratings, dates only from 1654–55.—The stairs at the N.E. corner lead (left) to the Hall of the Ambassadors (p. 83), and (right) to a new corridor which brings us to the—

*Peinador de la Reina (the ‘Queen’s Dressing-room’), on the upper floor of the Torre del Peinador erected by Yûsuf I. The ‘grotesque’ paintings, in the style of the Vatican logge, and the scenes from Charles V.’s expedition to Tunis (p. 323) are by Julio de Aquilés and Alex. Mayner.

The *Palace of Charles V. (Pl. 17, E, 2; entrance, see p. 83) is a massive square pile of 207 ft. each way and 57 ft. in height, with a heavy rustica groundfloor and an upper story of the Ionic order, terminating in a Doric cornice. The building was designed by Pedro Machuca in the Italian high-Renaissance style, in 1526, and its cost was defrayed out of the tribute paid by the Moors. The only completed parts are the façades, the superb circular colonnaded court, of the Doric order below and the Ionic above, and the main staircase, which was not finished till 1635. The richly sculptured W. and S. portals, executed by many different masters, are specially attractive.

Passing round the S. side of the palace of Charles V., we cross the Plaza de los Alămos to the church of Santa María (Pl. 18; E, F, 2), which stands on the site of the Mezquita Real or Alhambra mosque.

The buildings of the Alta Alhambra (p. 79) also present several features of interest. To the N. of Santa María we cross the Alameda, pass (on the left) the ruins of the Rauda (p. 85) and the outside of the Court of the Lions, and then descend to the left to the Torre de las Damas (Pl. 20; E, 2), a fortified tower of the time of Yûsuf I., restored in 1907–8, with a sumptuous interior. Fine view from the Mirador (p. 87).—A few paces to the E. lies the Carmen de Arratía, a private house with a charming garden (above the gate is the inscription ‘Mezquita árabe de la Alhambra’). The house contains a Moorish Chapel, also dating from the time of Yûsuf I., with an elegant mihrâb or prayer-niche.

87Farther on in the same direction we come to the Torre de los Picos (Pl. 21; F, 2) and cross a bastion (baluarte) to the Puerta de Hierro (Pl. 22; F, 2), restored by the ‘Catholic kings’, which forms the entrance to the Alhambra from the Cuesta del Rey Chico (p. 78).

On the margin of the plateau above this road are four towers, the two finest of which, time permitting, we may visit under the guidance of the custodian, who lives in the Torre de la Pólvora. These are the Torre de la Cautiva (Pl. 23; F, 2), the chief room in which vies with the sumptuous halls of the Alhambra palace itself, and the Torre de las Infantas (Pl. 24; F, 2), an excellent point of view.

On the S.W. margin of the plateau, beyond the Torre del Agua (Pl. 25; F, 2), where towards evening we have a splendid view of the town, the Vega, and the Sierra Nevada, is a bastion above which rises the Puerta de los Siete Suelos (Pl. 26; F, 2). By this gate Boabdil, the last of the Moorish kings (p. 75), made his final exit from the Alhambra.

d. The Generalife.

At the foot of the Cerro del Sol, to the E. of the Alhambra, about 160 ft. above the Alhambra Hill, rises the *Palacio de Generalife (Pl. E, F, 1), once the famous summer residence of the Moorish kings, and now owned by the Marquesa de Campotéjar (p. 77). The name is a corruption of the Arabic Jennat al-Arîf, ‘garden of Arîf’, the original owner. According to the inscription it was redecorated by order of Abu’l-Walîd Ismaîl in 1319, but in 1494 it was altered and enlarged by Queen Isabella. The interior is very dilapidated; the ornamentation, which is about half-a-century earlier than that of the chief apartments in the Alhambra, is mostly whitewashed.

We ascend by the Camino del Cementerio, a continuation of the three Alhambra Park routes (p. 81), and by the Cuesta del Rey Chico (p. 78), and ring at the Outer Gate (Pl. 27, F, 2; adm., see p. 74; fee to the porter, also to the gardener): A cypress-avenue leads thence to the N. to the Entrance (Pl. 28; F, 1).

The picturesque Court is still, as in Moorish times, planted with myrtle-hedges and orange-trees and intersected by a water-conduit. The buildings on the E. side date from the 16th cent.; along the W. side runs a Colonnade with pointed arches, the central door of which opens on a Mirador (Arabic manzar, i.e. belvedere), which is now a chapel. On the N. side we pass through a five-arched Gallery, and then through a three-arched Portal into a quadrangular Hall with two alcoves. Beyond this is a square room with a balcony commanding a splendid view of the Darro Valley. The modern side-rooms are uninteresting.

The *Park, to the E. of the main building and above it, was laid out in Moorish times. We first enter the Patio de los Cipreses, with a gallery built in 1584–6, and shaded with venerable cypresses. A Moorish flight of steps, with grooves for water on the balustrades, ascends to a Mirador (Pl. 29; F, 1), where we enjoy a glorious *View of Granada, the Alhambra, and the valley of the Darro.

88A good survey of the Alhambra and of the whole Sierra Nevada is obtained from the Silla del Moro (Pl. F, 1), a spur of the Cerro del Sol. It is reached in 12 min. from the Cementerio road (p. 87) by a path diverging halfway between the gate of the Generalife and the cemetery, and then crossing a gorge.

11. From Granada viâ Bobadilla to Málaga.

119½ M. Railway in 6–6¼ hrs. (fares 28 p. 90, 22 p. 65, 15 p. 95 c.); railway restaurant at Bobadilla only (change carr.); views thus far on the left, afterwards on the right.

From Granada to (76 M.) Bobadilla, see pp. 73, 72. The train then continues to follow the Guadalhorce Valley.

At (84½ M.) Gobantes begins the *Hoyo de Chorro, a ravine, inaccessible before the railway was made, where the Guadalhorce forces its passage through the limestone slate rock of the coast-hills. The train is carried along the left bank by means of tunnels and of high bridges crossing lateral gorges. Little, however, of the grand rocky landscape, or of the interesting construction of the line, is seen from the train on its rapid descent.

Beyond (89 M.) Chorro are seen the first oranges, lemons, palms, and cypresses. On the short run to Málaga we are carried with more startling suddenness than anywhere else in Europe into the midst of an almost tropical vegetation, and finally to the coast-region of sugar-cane, cotton, and bananas (comp. p. 89).

96 M. Alora (328 ft.; pop. 10,300), the ancient Iluro, lies to the right at the foot of the Sierra del Hacho. The ‘huertas’, or garden-like fields, are watered by numerous runlets from the Guadalhorce. Beyond the last tunnel the valley expands. 101½ M. Pizarra. To the S. rises the Sierra de Mijas.

109 M. Cártama. The village, the Roman Cartima, lies 2½ M. to the S.W., on the right bank of the Guadalhorce, which was once navigable up to this point. The loftily situated castle is Moorish.

112½ M. Campanillas lies on the stream of that name, which waters the hilly wine-country of Axarquía to the N., and falls into the Guadalhorce. The valley broadens down into the plain, the Hoya de Málaga (p. 89). We now leave the Guadalhorce, which turns to the S.E.; to the S. we sight the Mediterranean.

119½ M. Málaga.—Arrival. At the Railway Station (Estación del Ferrocarril; Pl. A, 5) we find hotel-omnibuses, cabs (see p. 89), and an ‘omnibus general’ (¼ p.), which last goes to the Despacho Central, or town-office of the railway, by the so-called Puerta del Mar (Calle de Carvajal; Pl. C, 4).—Travellers arriving by Steamer pay for landing ½ p. for each person and ½ p. for each trunk; or a bargain may be made to convey luggage to the custom-house (Aduana) and to the hotel for 1–2 p.—The coasting steamers only are berthed at the quay.

89Hotels (comp. p. 51). *Regina Hotel (Pl. a; C, 4), on the N. side of the Alameda, pens. 12–20 p.—*Hot. Colón (Pl. d; C, 3), Plaza de la Constitución; Hot. Victoria (Pl. b; C, 4), pens. 6–12 p., Hot. Niza (Pl. c; C, 3), Hot. Inglés (Pl. e; C, 3), pens. 7 p., Hot. Alhambra (Pl. f; C, 3), pens, from 7 fr., good, all in the Calle del Marqués de Larios; Hacienda de Giró (Engl. landlady, Mrs. Cooper), above La Caleta, with garden, pens. 8–15 p.

Cafés. Imperial, Inglés, and La Vinícola, all in the Calle del Marqués de Larios.—Beer. Gambrinus, same street; Cervecería de Munich, Plaza de la Constitución; Maier, Pasaje de Heredia, N. side of same plaza.

Cabs. Within the town, and to the E. to Hot. Hernán Cortés (p. 92): cab with two seats, per drive 1, per hr. 2 p., at night 2 and 2½ p.; with four seats, per drive 1½, per hr. 2½, at night per drive or hour 3 p. Bargain advisable, also as to luggage.—Outside the town according to bargain: to Palo (p. 92) about 5, to San José and La Concepción (p. 92) 8–9 p.—On certain festivals fares are raised.

Post & Telegraph Office (Correos y Telégrafos; Pl. D, 3), Calle del Cister.

Banks. Banco Hispano-Americano, Calle del Marqués de Larios; Hijos de Alvárez Fonseca, Calle Nueva; Rein & Co., Alameda de Carlos Haes 4.

Consuls. British, P. Staniforth; vice-consul, E. R. Thornton.—United States, E. J. Norton; vice-consul, T. R. Geary.—Lloyd’s Agent, Chas. Farguharson, Cortina del Muelle 69.

English Church in the Protestant Cemetery (Pl. F, 3).

Steamboat Lines. Hall Line (agent, Ign. Morales Hurtado, Alameda de Colón 13), weekly to Cadiz, Lisbon, and London; Compañía Trasatlántica (office, Viuda de Ant. Duarte), thrice monthly to Cadiz; Transports Maritimes (P. G. Chaix, Calle de Josefa de Ugarte Barrientos 26), on 20th of each month to Gibraltar, Madeira, etc. (comp. also p. 120 and R. 3); Navigation Mixte (P. G. Chaix), from Tangier viâ Málaga and Melilla to Oran (and Marseilles), see p. 123; also Sloman’s Line and others.

One Day. Forenoon: Alameda, Park (p. 90), Harbour (p. 90), Cathedral (p. 91), and view from its tower or from the Gibralfaro (p. 92); afternoon: Protestant Cemetery, Caleta, and Palo (p. 92).

Málaga, the capital of a province and seat of a bishop, one of the oldest and most famous of Mediterranean ports, with 111,900 inhab., lies picturesquely on the last spurs of a circus of hills, 47 M. long, the Sierra Tejea, S. de Alhama, S. de Abdalajis, and S. de Mijas, which enclose the broad Bahía de Málaga. The inner part of this bay is bounded on the E. by the Punta de los Cántales, and on the W. by the Torre de Pimentel, near Torremolinos; between these rises the Gibralfaro, the castle-hill of Málaga, abutting on the harbour. The coast-line is gradually being extended seawards by the alluvial deposits of the Guadalmedina (Arabic ‘town-river’), whose bed, generally dry (Rambla), separates the old town from the W. suburbs. To the W. stretches the wonderfully fertile Vega or Hoya de Málaga, where even the sugar-cane, cotton, sweet potatoes (Convolvulus batatas), and cherimolias (Anona cherimolia) are cultivated. Most famous among the products of this luxuriant region are the raisins (pasas) and the wines of Málaga, which are yielded by the Axarquía (p. 88), to the N.W., and by the Montes de Málaga and the hill of Colmenar, to the N.E., and which are chiefly exported by British and German firms. In the W. suburbs are several sugar, cotton, and iron factories, a rare phenomenon in Andalusia. To the E. are the villa-suburbs, the strangers’ quarter. Málaga is much resorted to as a winter residence, chiefly by British 90and Spanish visitors, on account of the mildness of its climate, the mean temperature of the three winter months being 55° Fahr.

The History of Málaga, the Malaca of antiquity, begins with the Phœnicians (p. 50), who gave the town its name. Down to the time of Posidonius, the contemporary of Pompey and Cicero, it retained its Punic character (Strabo III, 4), differing therein from the towns of Iberian or of Greek origin. The Syrian and other Asiatic merchants who settled here formed distinct guilds. Although the port was of some importance in ancient times, it now contains no memorials of either the Phœnician (except a few coins) or of the Roman period. In 571 Leovigild, the Visigoth (p. 69), wrested the town from the Byzantines. In 711 it was captured by the Moors, who regarded it as an earthly paradise, and whose Arabic writers vie with each other in extolling it. After 1246, along with Almería, it became one of the chief ports of the kingdom of Granada, but its mediæval glory ended with its conquest by Ferdinand and Isabella in 1487. For centuries Málaga remained utterly insignificant; but of late, in spite of the growing competition of Seville and Almería, its trade has improved considerably.

From the station we follow the tramway line and cross the Puente de Tetuán (Pl. B, 4) to the Paseo de la Alameda (Pl. B, C, 4), a promenade ¼ M. long and 138 ft. wide, planted with planes. At its W. end it is adorned with a marble Fountain executed in Genoa in 1560, and at the E. end with a statue of the Marqués de Larios. Adjoining this Paseo on the E. is the Plaza de Alfonso Suárez de Figueroa (Pl. C, 4), with a tasteful fountain, which leads to the new—

*Park (Parque or Jardines de Enrique Crooke Larios; Pl. C-E, 4, 3), planted with six rows of planes and palms and with fine flower-beds. View of the harbour, part of the cathedral, the Alcazaba, and the Gibralfaro.—The Paseo de Heredia (Pl. C, 5, 4) also, to the W. of the harbour, is planted with planes and palms.

The Harbour (Puerto; Pl. C, D, 4, 5) has been much improved since 1881. The E. pier, with the Lighthouse (Faro; Pl. D, 5), was already built in 1588. On the sand-hills behind the pier a poor suburb has sprung up, called the Barrio de Malagueta (Pl. E, F, 4, 3). On its N. side are the Plaza de Toros (Bull Ring; Pl. E, 3) and the Hospital Noble, erected for seamen by Dr. Noble, an English physician.—To the Caleta, see p. 92.

The Mercado (market-hall; Pl. B, C, 4), to the N. of the Alameda, deserves an early morning visit; the fish-stalls also are worth seeing. The horseshoe arch of the chief portal, with the motto of the Nasride dynasty (p. 74), is a relic of the Moorish wharf, the Atarazana (Arabic Dâr as-San῾a, ‘arsenal’ or ‘place of work’).

From the Alameda issues the Calle del Marqués de Larios (Pl. C, 4, 3), the chief business street of Málaga (many cafés) and also a favourite resort of the fashionable and leisured classes. Another important commercial thoroughfare, to the N.E. of the Plaza de la Constitución, is the Calle de Granada (Pl. C, D, 3), officially called Calle de Salvador Solier, from which the Calle de Molina Larios leads to the cathedral.

91The *Cathedral (Pl. C, D, 3; open 7–11 and 3 to 4.30, in summer 4 to 5.30), a massive edifice, marred, however, by the buildings on the E. side, occupies the site of a Moorish mosque, which was converted in 1487 into the Gothic Church of the Incarnation (Encarnación). The present church, which is built entirely of white limestone, was probably planned by Diego de Siloe (p. 76) in 1538. The building progressed slowly, but in 1554 it already showed the arms of Philip II. of Spain and Queen Mary of England. In 1680 it was partly destroyed by an earthquake, but in 1719 the work was resumed with greater energy. It has, however, never been completed.

The chief W. façade, approached by a fine flight of marble steps and flanked with two projecting towers, rises opposite the Plaza del Obispo in two stories, articulated with Corinthian columns. Corresponding with the three portals are the round-arched windows of the second story. The N. tower, 280 ft. high, has a third story with Corinthian columns, surmounted by an octagon with a dome and lantern. The S. tower, like the central part of the façade, shows only the beginnings of a third story. The portals of the transept also are flanked with towers.

The Interior, with its nave and aisles and two rows of chapels, measures 377 by 246 ft. and is 131 ft. in height. The transept and the ambulatory are grandly proportioned. The round arches of the ornate vaulting are borne by two sets of pillars, one above the other, the lower being enriched with Corinthian pilasters.

In the nave is the Choir, with its admirable stalls (16–17th cent.). The carved *Statues of saints and other figures are by Pedro de Mena (d. 1693).

In the Right Aisle is the Capilla del Rosario (the 3rd), which contains a Madonna of the Rosary with six saints, by Alonso Cano.—In the 1st chapel of the Ambulatory, the Capilla de los Reyes, are kneeling statues of the ‘Catholic kings’ (p. 75) and an image of the Virgin which they always carried with them on their crusades.

The Capilla Mayor, designed by Al. Cano, is formed by a semicircle of light detached pillars. The handsome altar, in the form of a domed temple with four façades, is modern.

The N. Tower (entered from outside; over 200 steps; custodian 30–40 c.) commands a strikingly picturesque *View.

The Sagrario, the parish church to the N.W. of the cathedral, has a rich Gothic N. portal from the older cathedral.

The Calle de San Agustín, passing the Ayuntamiento (Pl. D, 3), leads back to the Calle de Granada (p. 90). At the N.E. end of the latter, on the right, near the Plaza de Riego (Pl. D, 2, 3), rises the church of Santiago el Mayor (Pl. D, 3), built on the site of a mosque in 1490, with a tower whose lower part is still Moorish.

If the traveller is undeterred by dirty streets and begging children, he may ascend from the Plaza de Riego to the S.E. viâ the Calle del Mundo Nuevo to the saddle of the Coracha and the Moorish castle of Alcazaba (Pl. D, 3; p. 81), the scanty ruins of which are chiefly inhabited by gipsies. This hill-town, once connected with 92the Gibralfaro by double walls, probably stands on the site of the earliest Phœnician settlement.

The *Gibralfaro (Pl. E, 2, 3; 558 ft.; from jebel, mountain, and pharos, lighthouse), whose original fortifications date back to the 13th cent., affords an extensive view, ranging to the S., in very clear weather, as far as the Monte Melila in Africa (p. 124). The ascent from the Coracha (p. 91) is fairly easy. Leave to see the castle must be obtained beforehand from the commandant, at the Gobierno Militar, Alameda de Colón 2. The same views may be obtained by walking round the old enclosing walls, but this is fatiguing.

At the foot of the Gibralfaro runs the Avenida de Pries (Pl. F, 3), leading to the villa-quarter of Caleta (Pl. F, G, 3), where are several pensions and many superb gardens. (Electric tramway from the Paseo de Alameda to Palo; also steam-tramway from the harbour to Vélez-Málaga.) Immediately on the left is the pretty Protestant cemetery, or Cementerio Inglés, founded in 1830 by the British consul W. Mark (usually open). The little English Church here was built in 1891. At the E. end of Caleta, beyond the Hot.-Restaurant Hernán Cortés (Pl. k; G, 3), roads diverge to the left for the Limonar Valley (Pl. G, 2, 1), where lie the residential suburbs of Limonar, Higueral, and Miramar.—We may follow the highroad, which affords charming views, but is generally very dusty, to the fishing-village of Palo, 2 M. beyond the Hot. Hernán Cortés.

A delightful excursion may be taken to the beautiful park of the Hacienda de San José, 2½ M. to the N. of Málaga, and to the villa of *La Concepción, a little beyond it. The latter contains an elegant modern temple with Roman antiquities. The road (carr., see p. 89) leads from the Plaza de Capuchinos up the Guadalmedina. From the Cementerio de San Miguel (comp. Pl. D, 1; tramway) walkers may wander along the water-conduit, halfway up the slope (40 min.), and then descend the avenue of plane-trees to the left to the highroad.

Morocco, a region 270,000 sq. M. in area, extends from the Straits of Gibraltar on the N. to the Sahara on the S., and is bounded by the Atlantic Ocean on the W. and by the French colony of Algiers on the E. It is called by the Arabs El-Gharb or Maghreb el-Aksâ (‘the extreme West-land’), being the westmost part of the ancient Barbary (Arabic Jezirat el-Maghreb, ‘island of the West’), the long coast-land of N. Africa between the Libyan desert and the ocean. The backbone of this region, whose population is estimated at from six to eight millions, is formed by the Morocco Atlas, the highest mountains in N. Africa, a folded rock-formation, mostly of early origin. The range consists of three main chains: the barren Great Atlas, an enormous wall of rock culminating in the Tamyurt and Likumpt (about 14,800 ft.); then the Lesser Atlas to the N., rising in the territory of the Beni Waraïn tribe to over 13,000 ft., and separated from the Great Atlas by the Wâd el-Abid and the Mulûya; and lastly the Anti-Atlas and Jebel Sarro or Saghro, parallel with the Great Atlas, and about 6500 ft. in height. A low range of hills, called the Jebel Bani, between the Anti-Atlas and the river Draa, forms the boundary between Morocco and the Sahara. On the N.W. side of these mountains, between them and the ocean, lies an extensive intermediate tableland called the Tell, steppe-like in character, with a girdle of oases, whence protrude the Jebilet, the Jebel el-Hadid, the Jebel Akhdar or Lakhdar, and several smaller isolated heights, which are evidently relics of an ancient range of mountains. The seaboard itself consists of the plain between the rivers Tensift and Sebu (rendered extremely fertile by its mantle of black soil, Tuaress or Tîrs), and of the marshy flats on the lower course of the Sebu (ancient Subur), the most copious stream in Barbary. These occupy a district once penetrated by the sea, and geologically resembling the basin of the Guadalquivir (p. 49). The entire Mediterranean coast, on the other hand, from the Straits of Gibraltar to the Mulûya valley (p. 124), is bordered by the Rîf Mts. (p. 104), a range culminating 94in the Jebel Mulaï Abd es-Slam (p. 102; 5742 ft.) and the Jebel Tiziren (ca. 8200 ft.), these being folded mountains of recent formation, clothed with extensive forests of Atlas cedar (p. 210) and arar (Callitris quadrivalvis L.). The Rîf Mts. and the Atlas are sharply separated by a deep depression watered by the Sebu and its tributary the Innaûen on the W., and by the Msûn, an affluent of the Mulûya, on the E., a valley which once formed the most important route between Morocco and Algeria. Both of these mountain-ranges are said to contain great mineral wealth (iron, copper, zinc, silver, gold, etc.), but as yet it has only been tapped to a small extent by the natives, chiefly in the Sûs, the region between the Great and the Anti-Atlas, and near Ujda (p. 197).

The Great and the Lesser Atlas, whose chief peaks are covered with perpetual snow, afford also an abundant supply of water, which is utilized for irrigation, though as yet very inadequately, by means of open cuttings (sakhiâ) or underground conduits (foggâra or khattâra). The rainfall in Morocco diminishes as we proceed southwards from the Straits of Gibraltar; at Tangier it is 32 in.; at Mogador, 16 in.; while in the interior (as at Marakesh, 11 in.), and particularly on the S. margin of the Great Atlas, it becomes very insignificant. In the interior the climate may be described as continental (as at Marakesh, where the mean temperature of January is 51½° Fahr., and that of July 84½°), while that of the S. part of the ocean seaboard, thanks to the prevalent N.W. winds and the N. to S. ocean currents, vies with that of Madeira in mildness and equableness. Thus at Rabât the mean of January is 55°, that of August 75°; at Mogador 61° and 72°, respectively. The variations are greater near the Straits (as at Tangier, 50° and 75°) and particularly on the Rîf seaboard.

Morocco is inhabited chiefly by Berbers, the white Hamitic indigenous race of N. Africa; of these the Amâziges live in the N.W., the Berâbs in the Atlas, and the Shilluh or Shluh on the ocean coast. Some of them retain their ancient languages (Tamâzirt, or Shelha, and Berbri), which are akin to early Egyptian, but many, especially the dwellers in the low country, have spoken Arabic since the middle ages. Pure Arab Tribes, mostly survivors of the Beni Hilal and Beni Soleïm immigrants (p. 323), are chiefly met with in the Sebu plain and in the S.W. steppe-region. Many of the dwellers in the towns are Moors (Andalûsi) of Spanish origin, while numerous Jews are settled, usually in a walled ghetto (Mellah), under the direct protection of the sultan. Negroes, too, most of whom were originally slaves, imported from the Sudan by way of the Tafilet, abound in the southern districts of Morocco. The S.W. provinces of Sûs, Wâd Draa, and Wâd Nûn, which are interesting on account of their primæval African flora (p. 30), are mostly inhabited by the despised Harrâtin (sing. Hartâni), the hybrid 95offspring of negroes and Berbers, or, according to others, descendants of the indigenous population of N. Africa.

Owing to the inaccessibility of its mountains and the natives’ passionate love of independence, coupled with their hatred of foreigners, Morocco has ever been one of the least explored regions. The settlements of the Phœnicians and Carthaginians were limited to a few places on the coast, such as Rusaddir (Melilla?) and Ceuta, and also, beyond the pillars of Hercules (p. 54), Tingis (?), Zilis (Arzila), Lixus (p. 105), and Sala (Salee). The Romans also seem to have shunned the Rîf region, and scarcely ever to have penetrated into the interior beyond Meknes (Mequinez) in the Zerhun Mts. From the time of Emp. Claudius (42 A. D.) Morocco, with Tingis as its capital, formed the Provincia Mauretania Tingitana (comp. p. 124); and after the reign of Diocletian it became part of the Spanish Provincia Ulterior. In the early Christian period also the coast of Morocco, whose inhabitants had joined the Donatists (p. 172), shared the fortunes of Spain, belonging successively to the Vandals (p. 322), the Eastern Romans, and (after 620) the Visigoths, until in 682 it fell into the hands of the Arabs under Sidi Okba (p. 322), and then after long struggles was united with the caliphate of Damascus (p. 485). Although the Berber tribes of Morocco were thenceforth among the most zealous champions of Islam, and in 711, at the instance of Mûsa, the governor, had undertaken their victorious expedition against Spain under Târik (p. 54), yet they afterwards took part in the Kharijite movement against the Arabs (comp. p. 323). In 788 Idris I. (d. 793), an Arab refugee and a descendant of the Prophet (‘sherif’), founded the oldest Moroccan dynasty, that of the Idrisides, and under Idris II. (793–828) Fez became their new capital in 807 instead of Volubilis in the Zerhun Mts. After the fall of the Idrisides the country was divided among Berber princes, and its independence was threatened by Omaiyades (p. 69) and Fatimites (p. 323) alternately. At length in 1055 it succumbed to the attacks of the Almoravides (Morabitîn, comp. p. 368), a Berber sect from the W. Sahara, who under Abu Bekr’s lead converted the inhabitants of the interior as far as the Sudan to Islam. Under Yûsuf ibn Têshufîn they took possession of Agâdir in 1081 (p. 188) and of Ceuta in 1084, and in 1086 took the lead in the struggle against the unbelievers in the Iberian peninsula. Morocco became still more powerful under the Almohades, a Berber sect formed in 1181 in the district now called Oran (p. 169), especially under the gifted caliph Abd el-Mûmen (1130–63), who, after the battle of Tlemcen (p. 188), extended his sway over the Moorish states of Spain, and in 1160 as far as Barca (p. 414). After the overthrow of the Almohades in 1212 there arose in Barbary the three new kingdoms of the Merinides at Fez, the Abdelwadites (p. 188) at Tlemcen, and the 96Hafsides (p. 323) in Tunis, whose strength was exhausted by sanguinary internecine struggles which lasted for centuries.

The attacks of the Portuguese, who took Ceuta in 1415, occupied Arzila and Tangier in 1471, and after 1500 even threatened Marakesh from their base on the ocean seaboard, coupled with the advance of the Spaniards, who after the fall of Granada (p. 75) had conquered Melilla, called forth the new counter-movement of the Saadites of the Draa. To this new dynasty, after the conquest of Marakesh in 1520 and of Fez in 1550, tho feeble dynasty of the Merinides succumbed in 1554. Morocco was afterwards torn by sanguinary family feuds, yet owing to the destruction of the Portuguese army in the ‘battle of the three kings’ at Alcázar (Ksar el-Kebîr), and the influx of well-educated Moors expelled from Spain, the kingdom was greatly strengthened and obtained a new lease of life. It prospered once more, after 1649, under the sixth dynasty, that of the Filali, a family from the Tafilet (see below), and notably under the cruel Mulaï Ismail (1672–1727), one of the most powerful princes of his age, who even fought against the Turks in Oran (comp. p. 206) and led a campaign against Timbuktu.

After the defeat of the Portuguese the pirates of Larash (p. 104) and Salee (p. 106), vying with the Rîf pirates and the ‘Barbaresques’ (p. 221), had seriously hampered European trade for two centuries or more, but by the occupation of Algeria by the French and the expedition of the Spaniards against Tetuán in 1859–60 the seaboard of Morocco was at length opened up to European influence and to commercial enterprise. In 1906 the Algeciras Conference (p. 56) prevented the French from advancing towards Fez and obtaining a passage from the Oran and Sahara railway through the Tafilet or Tafilelt, the richest group of oases in S. Morocco, to the ocean seaboard. In 1907, however, the unrest at Casablanca (p. 107), and also on the Algerian frontier, led to the French occupation of that important seaport along with the adjacent Shâuya, of Ujda (p. 197), and of Berguent and Bu Denib in S.E. Morocco. After the deposition of Mulaï Abdul-Aziz (1894–1907), who was favourable to the French influence, Mulaï Hafid was proclaimed sultan in 1908.

The Morocco of to-day, whose institutions, manners, and customs are still quite mediæval, consists of the so-called Blad el-Makhzen (‘government land’), the dominion of the sultan, and the far larger Blad es-Siba (‘outer land’), occupied by independent tribes. These tribes recognize the sultan, or the grand sherif of Wazzân, a descendant of the Idrisides, as their spiritual chief only, but usually deny the sultan a right of way through their territory between the capital towns of Fez and Marakesh.

The foreign trade of Morocco is confined to the eight ‘open’ ports of Tangier, Larash, Rabât, Casablanca, Mazagan, Saffi, Mogador, 97and Tetuán, to the capitals of Fez and Marakesh, and has lately extended to Ujda and the Spanish Melilla (p. 124). In 1909 its total volume amounted to 132,612,000 fr. of which were ascribed to Great Britain 52,339,000 fr., to France 51,255,000 fr., to Germany 13,582,000 fr., to Spain 6,456,000 fr., and to the United States 1,111,000 fr. From France Morocco imports sugar, flour, and silk, from England cotton goods, tea, rice, and candles, from Germany iron wares, cloth, and sugar, and from Italy flour and wax-matches. The exports (to Marseilles, Gibraltar, Spain, England, Hamburg, etc., and also to Algeria and America) consist of goats’ and sheep’s hides, fruit (almonds, oranges, etc.), eggs, cattle, chick-pease, wheat, barley, and maize. The Morocco-leather slippers (belra, yellow for men and red for women) go to Egypt, Algeria, and Senegal. Besides the breeding of cattle, that of horses and mules also is important. Sardines and other fish abound off the ocean coasts.

Most travellers are satisfied with a visit to Tangier, an excursion to Tetuán, and the interesting coasting voyage (best in April-Sept.) to Rabât or Mogador. Europeans rarely travel in the interior, except perhaps in Blad el-Makhzen, while in N. Morocco they should avoid the rainy winter season. As roads, bridges, and inns are lacking, a costly equipment for such expeditions is required, including tents, camp-beds, cooking utensils, provisions, drinking-water, candles, medicines, insect-powder, etc. A guide or mule-driver, a cook, an interpreter, and a soldier as an escort (mekhazni) also are usually engaged. Lastly a mule (incl. attendant and fodder, 4–5 pesetas per day) is preferable to a horse (5 p. or upwards), being more sure-footed and enduring. Before starting, the traveller should apply for information and assistance to a consul or other experienced resident, and obtain from them introductions to the local authorities (caid, pasha, or amel) or to so-called protégés (semsar, mokhâlat). Persons of distinction have a right to a formal reception by the authorities and to the mûna (free provisions, like the ancient ‘purveyance’), for which, as also for hospitality, a return is made either in kind (as firearms, telescopes, watches, trinkets) or in money. In the country it is advisable to put up at the village caravanserais (nzalas), where a night-watchman is provided (fee) and where offerings by the peasants (milk, oranges, etc.; small fee) should not be declined. At towns early arrival is essential, as all the gates are closed at sunset. As to dealings with Mohammedans, comp. p. xxv. Travellers are specially warned against photographing or even entering their mosques, saints’ tombs, or burial-grounds.

In the seaport-towns Spanish silver (p. 52) and English or French gold are current, but in the interior Spanish and Morocco money only (silver coins of 5, 2½, 1¼, ½, and ¼ p.). In the interior letters of credit addressed to Jewish or other firms are convenient.

Books. R. L. Playfair and R. Brown, Bibliography of Morocco (London, 1892); Budgett Meakin, The Moorish Empire (London, 1899), The Land of the Moors (London, 1901), The Moors (London, 1902), and Life in Morocco and Glimpses Beyond (London, 1905); J. Thomson, Travels in the Atlas and Southern Morocco (London, 1889); W. B. Harris, Tafilet (London, 1895); A. S. Forrest and S. L. Bensusan, Morocco (London, 1904, illus.); D. Mackenzie, The Khalifate of the West (London, 1910; illus.; 10 s. 6 d.); E. Ashmead-Bartlett, The Passing of the Shereefian Empire (Edinburgh, 1910; illus.; 15 s.); H. J. B. Ward, Mysterious Morocco and how to appreciate it (London, 1910; 2 s. 6 d.); A. Brives, Voyages au Maroc, 1901–7 (Algiers, 1909; illus.) and Aperçu géologique et agricole sur le Maroc occidental; Ch. de Foucauld, Reconnaissance au Maroc, 1883–4 (Paris, 1888); Marq. de Segonzac, Voyages au Maroc (Paris, 1903; 27 fr.); Eug. Aubin, 98Le Maroc d’Aujourd’hui (Paris, 1904; 5 fr.; also Engl, trans., ‘Morocco of To-day’, London, 1906); H. Lorin, L’Afrique du Nord (Paris, 1908).

The best Map of Morocco (1:500,000) is that published by the Service Géographique de l’Armée (Paris; 1 fr. each sheet).

12. Tangier.

Arrival. The steamers (see below) anchor in the open roads, and passengers are conveyed to the pier in small boats. The German companies furnish landing-tickets (1 s. for landing or embarking), otherwise the tariff is 1 peseta (from the larger steamers 1¼ p.) each person; trunk ½, hand-luggage ¼ p. When the sea is rough a blue flag is hoisted on the pier and fares are doubled; in stormy weather (yellow flag) a bargain must be made, provided landing be at all possible. It is advisable to stipulate for the landing of luggage and its transport to the hotel for an inclusive sum (¾–1 p.) and to disregard the noisy importunities of the boatmen and porters. If need be, the help of the hotel-agents may be invoked. The traveller should be on his guard against pilfering also. Guides, who represent themselves as agents for the hotels, also proffer their services, even during the crossing from Gibraltar, but their attendance generally makes everything dearer. Besides the fares mentioned, pier-dues are levied (25 c.; for each package 5 c.).—The custom-house examination at the town-gate is lenient. A passport is unnecessary.

Hotels. Hôt. Continental (Pl. a; D, 1), in a quiet site, not far from the pier, with a fine sea-view, patronized by Americans, pens. from 10s.; *Hôt. Cecil (Pl. b; E, 4, 5), on the Playa Grande, with a terrace and sea-view, pens. 10–12s.; *Hot. Villa Valentina (Pl. c; C, 5), on the Fez road, pens. 8–10s., 8 min. from the Outer Market; Hôt. Villa de France (Pl. d; B, 4), on a height behind the Outer Market, with fine view, 12 min. from the quay, an old-established French house, pens. from 10s.—Hôt. Bristol (Pl. e; D, 2), in the Inner Market (p. 100), pens. 8–10s., good; Hôt. Cavilla, pens. 8–10 p., well spoken of, and Hôt. Maclean, pens. 6–8 p., both in the Outer Market; Hôt. Oriental (Pl. f; D, 2), pens. from 8½ fr., near the Great Mosque.—Wine is usually an extra.

Cafés. Café-Restaurant Central, Inner Market, déj. 2½, D. 3 p.; Lion d’Or and Café du Commerce near the French post-office. The Arab Cafés, mostly conducted by the guides, are a kind of Moorish cafés-chantants (cup of ‘Arab coffee’ in the evening 1 p.).

Post Offices. British, German, and Spanish (Pl. 3, 1, 2; D, 2), all in the Inner Market; French (Pl. 4; D, 2, 3), behind the Great Mosque. Postage on letters to Great Britain, France, Germany, or Spain 10 c., if posted at the respective office, otherwise 25 c.; post-cards 10 c.—British Telegraph (Pl. 6; B, 2), on the old road from the outer market to the Marshan; French, to Oran, at the French post-office; Spanish (Pl. 5; D, 3), not far from the inner market.

Steamers. Royal Mail Steam Packet Co. (E. Chappory), from London fortnightly for Tangier, Mogador, the Canaries, and Madeira (RR. 14, 4, 3); Bland Line (M. Pariente), for Gibraltar (R. 6 b), Tetuán (R. 13), and Larash (R. 14); N. Paguet & Co., for Marseilles, and for Rabât and Mogador (R. 14); Trasatlántica (Ortenbach), Canary Line to Casablanca, Mazagan, etc. (R. 14); Vapores Correos de Africa (Romany y Miquel), for Cadiz and Algeciras (R. 6 b), Ceuta (R. 13), Larash, Rabât, etc. (R. 14); Navigation Mixte (C. Touache; R. Buzenet), for Melilla, Málaga, and Oran (R. 18); Oldenburg-Portuguese (Renschhausen & Co.), for Mogador, etc. (R. 14); Rotterdam Lloyd (Lalaurie & de Testa), from Southampton fortnightly for Lisbon, Tangier, Marseilles, etc.; Nederland Royal Mail, from Southampton fortnightly for Tangier, Algiers, etc.; German East African Line (Jahn & Toledano), from Southampton every three weeks for Tangier, Marseilles, etc.; also excursion-steamers of the Peninsular & Oriental Co., etc. (see p. 2).

99Physicians. Dr. Wilson (English); Dr. Herzen, Casa Dahl; Dr. Steiner, Hôt. Villa de France.—Chemists. British Pharmacy; Bouich & Ibbanez; Bouchard, Céreze, both in the main street.—British Hospital on the Marshan (comp. Map).

Banks. M. Pariente (English); Banque d’Etat du Maroc (Pl. 12; D, 2), Inner Market; Comp. Algérienne, main street; German Orient Bank (Pl. 11; D, 2), near the Great Mosque; Jahn & Toledano; Renschhausen & Co., on the shore.

Shops. For Oriental goods (comp. p. 331): Jos. Saadeh, opposite the Spanish church (p. 100); Bensaken; Mimon Delmar (‘Moorish Bazaar’).—Photographs sold by Ruedi (a Swiss); Cavilla, next door to the British Consulate.

Newspapers. El Moghreb el-Akhza, English; La Dépêche Marocaine, El Porvenir, El Eco Mauritano, etc.

Horses, mules, and donkeys (‘borricos’) at Benmergui’s, coast-road, and Pedro’s, Outer Market, near the German Embassy. Donkey, with attendant, per ride ½–1 p., per day 1½–2½ p.; mule, ½ day 2–3, day 3–5 p.; horse a little more (comp. p. 97).

Sea Baths. Delicias de la Playa and Paraíso de la Playa on the Playa Grande (Pl. E, 3, 4), with fine beach, from May to Oct.; bath 25, with towels, etc. 50 c.

Legations and Consulates. Great Britain. Minister, Hon. Reginald Lister (office, Pl. A, B, 4). Consul-General, H. E. White (office, Pl. D, 2); vice-consul, E. Bristow.—United States. Minister, W. Carpenter (office, Pl. D, 3). Acting Consul-General, G. E. Holt.—Lloyd’s Agent, Eugene Chappory, in the main street.

English Church Service, in the church in the Outer Market (Pl. B, 3), every Sun. (from Dec. till end of April) at 8 and 11 a.m., and at 3 p.m.—Spanish Catholic, at the church in the main street (p. 100).

Races in spring and summer on the beach.—Arabian ‘Fantasias’ (Laab el-Barood) on horseback on the Mohammedan festivals, in the Inner Market or the Marshan.

Two Days (if time be limited). 1st. In the forenoon, the Main Street and the Inner Market (p. 100), Outer Market (p. 100), Marshan (p. 101), and Kasba (p. 101); in the afternoon, walk on the beach.—2nd. Excursion to Cape Spartel (p. 101).

Tangier, Spanish or French Tanger, Arabic Tanja, capital of the Moroccan province of El-Fahs or Fahass, the largest commercial town in the whole country, and the seat of legations from the great powers, lies picturesquely on the hilly W. bank of a shallow bay of the Atlantic. Of the 46,270 inhab. 25,000 are Mohammedans, 12,000 Moroccan Jews, and 9270 foreigners (incl. 7000 Spaniards). The rough and extremely dirty streets of the old town, above whose white sea of houses peeps here and there the minaret of a mosque, afford a genuine picture of Oriental life. Amid the noisy crowds are seen the most widely divergent types, from the pale yellow Moorish aristocrat to the dark-brown Moroccans of the south and the black negroes of the Sudan. Their costumes also are very various. The Mohammedans wear white or coloured burnous, brown jellâbas, yellow slippers (p. 97), and a coloured turban or red fez (tarbûsh). The Jews wear either European garb or the regulation black kaftan and fez. Most of the streets are impracticable for vehicles. The commonest beast of 100burden is the donkey; the frequent shout of ‘bâlek’ (take care) warns foot-passengers to make room. The busiest places are the quay, whence cattle from the interior are shipped for Gibraltar and Ceuta, and in the morning the three markets.

Although already a Phœnician settlement, Tingis (p. 101) first appears in history in the Roman period, when it vied with Oppidum Novum (Ksar el-Kebîr) and Volubilis as one of the chief places in this region. Augustus conferred on its inhabitants the right of citizenship, and Claudius made the town a Roman colony. It is unknown when Tangier was founded, but in the middle ages it fell behind the thriving seaports of Ceuta, Ksar es-Serîr (p. 123), and Arzila. According to Moorish tradition it was founded by Mulaï Abd es-Slam Buarakia, the patron saint of the town. In 1471 it fell into the hands of the Portuguese, and it belonged to Spain from 1580 to 1640. In 1662 it formed part of the dowry of Catharine of Braganza, consort of prince Charles (afterwards Charles II. of England), and thus came into the possession of the English. In 1664, however, the English were signally defeated by the Moors on the ‘Jews’ River’ (pp. 101, 102), and in 1684 evacuated the town, after demolishing the fortifications and the pier. Since then the town has belonged to Morocco. The present fortifications, constructed by English engineers, are mounted with antiquated guns, and the town-walls date partly from the Portuguese period.

From the Muelle Nuevo (Pl. E, 1; new pier, 1907; adm. 25 c.), we walk past the new harbour for lighters and the granary (Almacen), and then to the S.W. through the harbour-gate (Bâb el-Marsâ) into the Main Street (Pl. D, C, 2, 3), which ascends the hill-side in a curve to the Outer Market. Passing the Great Mosque or Jâma el-Kebîr (Pl. D, 2), with its pretty gateway and lofty minaret inlaid with tiles, we reach the Inner Market (Sok ed-Dáyel; Pl. D, 2; Arabic Sûk ed-Dakhl), the centre of traffic, with the European post-offices (p. 98). Higher up, where the street takes the name of Siiaguin, are situated on the left the Spanish Catholic Church (Iglesia Español; Pl. C, 3) and the Morocco Ministry of Foreign Affairs.

At the end of the street is the upper gate of the inner town (Bâb ed-Dakhl), leading into Los Herradores (Farriers’ Square; Pl. 8, C, 3), to the left of which, and also connected with the Outer Market by a gateway, lies the Meat and Vegetable Market (Plaza de Abastos; Pl. C, 3). From the Farriers’ Square a second gate on the right leads to the Mercado (Pl. C, 2, 3), an intermediate market-place, with rows of booths and a caravanserai (Fondak). Passing through the N. gate (Bâb el-Marshan; Pl. C, 3) and skirting the town-walls and the Christian Cemetery (Pl. B, 2), we reach, on the left, the Paseo de Cenarro (Pl. B, A, 2), the new Marshan road, and (straight on) the Kasba and the old Marshan route (see p. 101).

The Fez Gate (Bâb el-Fahs; Pl. C, 3) leads into the Outer Market (Sûk el-Barra; Pl. B, C, 3), which deserves a visit on market-days (Thursdays and particularly Sundays). In this great and very uneven plot of ground, adorned with the shrine of Sidi Makhfî (Meyfi), the patron-saint of the market, we witness a strange and indescribable scene. Between the rows of salesmen and saleswomen, 101the latter veiled and clad in white, moves a motley throng of bargaining and jostling customers, while smaller groups gather round the jugglers, story-tellers, and snake-charmers (members of the sect of the Aïssaouas; p. 373).

On the N. side of the Outer Market the Monte Road (Camino del Monte; Pl. B, A, 3; p. 101) leads to the W., past two Mohammedan Cemeteries (Cementerio de los Moros; Pl. B, A, 2–4) and the Portuguese Legation (Pl. A, 3), to the (¼ hr.) Villa Sicsu (comp. Map), with its pretty garden (gate-keeper ½–1 p.).

From the gate of this villa a by-road ascends in a curve to the right to the Marshan (El Marxán; 341 ft.), a plateau to the N.W. of the town. At the W. end of it, above the Bubana Valley (see below), lie an estate of the Sherif of Wazzân (Xerif de Uazán) and a Mohammedan Cemetery. Farther to the E., beyond the Austrian Legation, we come to a number of square Phœnician Rock Tombs, now partly used as cisterns, situated on the steep margin of the coast, which is undermined by the sea.

The walled Kasba (Pl. B, C, 1), on the E. slope of the Marshan, is the highest and the most curious quarter of the town. Entering it by the upper gate (Bâb ed-Doulah or Bâb el-Marshan; Pl. B, 1), we first come to the barracks and the Naham Battery (Pl. B, 1), where we have a splendid view of the Straits of Gibraltar. Opposite us is the Rauda, or burial-chapel of the patron saint of the town (p. 100). A little below is seen the Sultan’s Palace (Pl. B, C, 1), a good example of late-Moorish architecture, with a fine colonnaded court, a mosque, and a garden. The square at the lower end of the Kasba is bordered by the Tesoro (Pl. 10; treasury), the Mexuar (Pl. 9; law-courts), at the entrance to which the cadi administers justice from 8 to 11 in the morning, and the State Prison (Cárcel; visitors admitted), where male prisoners are employed in basket-making and other work. Near this is a smaller prison for women.

From the Bâb el-Assa, the lower Kasba gate (Pl. C, 1), a steep footpath, which soon offers a striking *View of the white houses of Tangier and of the beach, descends to the town.

Excursions. We may walk or ride to the S.E., past the Sea Baths (p. 99), along the beach, which forms an excellent riding-course at low tide, to the (¾–1 hr.) Roman Bridge across the brook Galeres (Wâd el-Mogoga), and thence a little inland over the sand-hills (100 ft.) to the Ruins of Tingis (Arabic Tanja el-Bâlia), where the Roman seaward gateway is still well preserved. The road then makes a long bend to the N. to the Torre Blanquilla (243 ft.), an old Moorish battery on Cape Malabata (p. 6), 2½–3½ hrs. from Tangier.—Another pleasant ride may be taken from the shore to the S.W., inland, through orange-groves to (1¼ hr.) the village of Es-Suani, where we strike the Fez Road (p. 102), by which we may return to the Outer Market.

The *Excursion to Cape Spartel, 7½ M. to the W. of Tangier, takes nearly a day (horses, etc., see p. 99; bargain advisable; provisions should be taken). From the Villa Sicsu (see above) we descend the Monte road to the Bubana Valley, watered by the little Wâd el-Ihûd (‘Jews’ 102River’), ¾ hr. to the W. of Tangier. From the bridge we may go straight on, and mount direct to the top of the Jebel Kebîr (1070 ft.), which is overgrown with low underwood, or (more attractive) we may follow the Monte road to Monte Washington, a colony of charming villas immediately overlooking the sea, and then, ¾ hr. farther on, rejoin the direct route. On both routes we enjoy a splendid view of the sea and the Spanish coast with Cape Trafalgar (p. 58). The main road at length descends to the W. margin of Cape Spartel (Arabic Râs Ishberdil), the ancient Promontorium Ampelusia, the north-westmost point of Africa. The lighthouse (312 ft.), built and maintained by the European great powers, at present the only one on the coast of Morocco (others are projected at Melilla, Casablanca, Mazagan, Saffi, and Mogador), is visible at sea from a distance of about 30 M. Near it are a signal-station and a meteorological station belonging to the nautical observatory of Hamburg.

From the cape we may ride along the coast to the (2½ M.) Hercules Grotto, where excellent grindstones and millstones have been quarried from time immemorial, or, in returning to Tangier, we may diverge from the Bubana Valley to visit the Olive Groves, between the Jews’ River and the Fez road (see below).

13. From Tangier to Tetuán (Ceuta).

The journey to Tetuán, about 37 M., may be performed (on horseback or by mule) in one day, but travellers wishing to break their journey may spend a night at a fondak (see below) where, considering the rough accommodation, it is best to camp outside (tents and camping-utensils should be taken from Tangier). An escort is advisable. Or we may go to Tetuán by a steamer of the Bland Line (usually on Sat. even., in 3 hrs.; $4), and return thence to Tangier or Gibraltar by the Navigation Mixte (p. 123; every second Tues.; agent at Tetuán, Salvador Hassan). From Tangier to Ceuta direct there is a weekly steamer (on Thurs.) of the Vapores Correos de Africa. For the excursion to Ceuta a passport visé by the Spanish consul at Tangier or Tetuán is required. A local boat crosses daily from Ceuta to Algeciras (p. 56) in 2 hrs.

From the Outer Market we follow the Fez road (Pl. C, 3–5; Camino de Fez) to the S., passing at some distance from the stone huts of the Berber villages (Duâr) in the fertile hill-country of the province of El-Fahs. Nearing the village of Aïn-Dalia, we pass below it, ride to the S.E. in view of the steep peak of Jebel Zinat, crowned with the ruined house of Raisuli, and ascend in the fertile valley of the Wâd Marhar (Tahaddart). Here, on the right, beyond the hills inhabited by the Berber tribe of the Beni Msaur, we can sometimes descry in clear weather the distant Jebel Mulaï Abd es-Slam (5742 ft.), the most sacred mountain in N. Morocco.

The track then ascends through remains of cork-tree forest in the beautiful hill-region of the Wâd Râs. At the top of the pass (1476 ft.), the watershed between the Atlantic and the Mediterranean, stands the fondak of Aïn el-Jedida, the largest caravanserai in N. Morocco (comp. above). The roof-terrace commands a fine view of the hills around.

The track, which soon affords a beautiful *View of Tetuán, now descends the stony slope to the E. into the valley of the River Martín, a stream rising on the Jebel Mulaï Abd es-Slam.

103Tetuán (197 ft.; Hot. Dersa, pens. 10 p.; Hot. Calpe, R. 3, pens. 10 p., plain but good; Hot. Victoria, pens. 6–8 p.; Brit. vice-cons., W. S. Bewicke), Arabic Titawân, Berber Tettawên, an interesting town, containing among its 30,450 inhab. 6000 Jews, 400 Spaniards, and about 500 immigrants from Algeria, lies 7 M. from the Mediterranean and above the left bank of the River Martín, not far from the ancient Roman Thamuda. The garden-like environs are fertile and well watered. With its numerous minarets, its domed tombs of saints, its town-walls garnished with many towers, and its loftily placed citadel (Kasba) overshadowed on the N. by the red sandstone rocks of the Jebel Dersa, it presents a most charming picture of an Oriental town entirely free from European disfigurement. The narrow, winding streets recall the ancient part of Cordova, and the colonnaded courts of the externally plain Moorish houses resemble the patios of Seville (p. 61). In the more regularly built Mellah (Jewish quarter) one is often struck with the beauty of the Jewish girls and the women’s gold-embroidered festive attire. Some parts of the town still show traces of the Spanish siege of 1859–60, which gained for the victorious Marshal O’Donnell the title of ‘Duke of Tetuán’.

The graves in the Jewish Cemetery are sometimes not unlike the anthropoid sarcophagi of the Phœnicians (comp. p. 347).

The old Portuguese Watch Tower at Kilallin affords a superb panorama.

The mouth of the River Martín, which is much choked with sand, forms the harbour of Tetuán, but sea-going vessels have to anchor in the open roads. The trade of the place is unimportant.

A coast-road was constructed by the Spaniards during the Morocco campaign, connecting Tetuán with Ceuta (23 M.), but now only a track remains. It leads at first through the coast-plain at the E. base of Jebel Dersa (see above), and then, beyond the Cabo Negro or Cape Negron (886 ft.; Arabic Râs et-Tarf), skirts the fertile spurs of the Anjera Mts. Beyond the Moroccan frontier guard-house, we enter Spanish territory, protected by a chain of block-houses, and skirt the E. slope of the Jurassic Sierra Bullones or Apes’ Hill (2809 ft.; Arabic Jebel Mûsa, i. e. Hill of Moses), where apes abound. This is the highest peak of the Anjera Mts. and was famed in antiquity as one of the pillars of Hercules (p. 54).

Ceuta (several small Spanish inns; no photographing allowed), Arabic Sebta, a town of 10,000 inhab. (of whom 3000 are soldiers), the only important Spanish possession in Morocco besides Melilla (p. 124), lies on a narrow, flat tongue of land between a spur of the Sierra Bullones, crowned with the white tomb of a saint, and the strongly fortified peninsula of Almina, which culminates in the Monte del Acho (637 ft.). Originally Phœnician, it became a Roman colony, under the name of Ad Septem Fratres (later Septon or Septa Emporia), and in the middle ages was the most important and prosperous seaport of N. Morocco. In 1169 it was the seat, of a Genoese trading station, and in 1415 it fell into the hands of the Portuguese, from whose time date the ruins of Ceuta la Vieja (old Ceuta). Since 1580, in spite of repeated attacks by the Moroccans (1694–1720, 1732), it has remained in the uninterrupted possession of Spain, and it now presents a sadly decayed appearance. The tunny and sardine fisheries here are very thriving.

411 M. Steamboats. 1. Royal Mail Steam Packet Co. (see RR. 5, 4, 3; often full all the way from London), every other Friday, viâ Casablanca, Mazagan, and Saffi to Mogador in 5 days (agents at Tangier, Eug. Chappory; at Casablanca and Saffi, Murdoch, Butler, & Co.; at Mazagan, J. de Maria; and at Mogador, R. Yuly & Co.).—2. Oldenburg-Portuguese Line fortnightly to Mogador, calling at intermediate ports (agents at Tangier and Larash, Renschhausen & Co.; at Rabât, Weickert & Enke; at Casablanca and Saffi, Lamb Bros.; at Mazagan, Ch. Balestrino; at Mogador, Borgeaud, Reutemann, & Co.).—3. N. Paquet & Co. (p. 120), Monday evenings (returning on Frid.), to Rabât, intermediate ports, and Mogador in 4 days.—4. Vapores Correos de Africa twice monthly to Mogador viâ, Larash, Rabât, Casablanca, Mazagan, and Saffi in 5½ days. There are also the small cargo-boats of the Genoese Servizio Italo-Spagnuolo, of Rius & Torres of Barcelona, and others. The small boats of the Bland Line ply between Tangier and Larash once or twice weekly. The Canary Line of the Compañía Trasatlántica touches once monthly at Tangier (if required also at Casablanca and Mazagan).—Landing and embarkation in lighters at most of the intermediate ports is often impracticable for weeks together, especially in winter. Harbours are in course of construction at Larash and Casablanca, and one at Saffi is projected.—Tangier, Rabât, Casablanca, and Mogador have wireless telegraph stations.

Along the Ocean Seaboard of Morocco (about 835 M. to Cape Juby) navigation is often impeded by gales, sandbanks, and fogs. The seaports lie mostly at the mouths of rivers or in small and shallow open bays.

The Steamers round the sandstone rocks of Cape Spartel (p. 102) and steer to the S.W., at some distance from the land, above which in clear weather are seen the Rîf Mts., with the Jebel Habib (2990 ft.) and the Jebel Mulaï Abd es-Slam (p. 102).

In the coast-plain of El-Gharbia we next observe, on a terrace abraded by the sea, the decayed little seaport-town of Arzila, the Phœnician Zilis, Rom. Colonia Zilis Constantia, with a ruinous town-wall of the Portuguese period.

Beyond the Haffet el-Beida, a spur of the hill-region of Sahel, once famed for its cork-tree groves and its fertility, we near the broad mouth of the Lukkus or El-Kus, the Lix of antiquity, and obtain a splendid view of the white sandstone walls and the castellated Kasba of Larash.

Larash, also called Larache or Laraiche, Arabic El-Araïsh (Hot. Lukkus, on the river-bank; landing or embarkation 1 p.; Brit. vice-cons., L. Forde), a somewhat dirty town of 13,220 inhab. (incl. 3000 Jews and 200 Europeans), one of the chief seaports of Morocco, lies on the left bank of the Lukkus, about 100 ft. above the river. The total exports and imports are valued at 18 million francs. In the 16th cent. the town was an important Portuguese centre of trade, and in 1580–1689 it belonged to Spain. It then became a war-harbour and the headquarters of the pirates of Morocco, and was fruitlessly attacked by the French in their disastrous expedition 105of 1765, and by an Austrian squadron in 1829. The former harbour, which was rendered inaccessible to vessels of larger draught by the bar obstructing it and the shallowness of the river-mouth, is being superseded by a new harbour now under construction. The town-walls, the moats, the coast-batteries, and the small fortifications on the S. bank of the river date from the Spanish occupation.

From the landing-place on the N.E. margin of the town we pass through the harbour-gate into the spacious Inner Market (Sûk ed-Dakhl), with the old Spanish Merchants’ Hall (Fondak el-Essbenyoli) and arcades lined with shops. Gateways lead thence to the N.W. to the picturesque Kasba (no admission), and to the S.E. to the Government Palace (Dâr el-Makhzen). The Chief Mosque was once the Spanish cathedral, and several of the dwelling-houses are still Spanish in character.

Outside the Bâb el-Khemis lies the extensive Outer Market (Thurs.). Excellent oranges and other fruit are grown in the beautiful gardens around.

Some Roman ruins, relics of the old town of Lixus (p. 95), now overgrown with brushwood, lie on the Jebel Tshemmish, a low hill on the right bank of the Lukkus, about 1½ hr. from Larash (best reached by boat).

As the Steamer proceeds there appears on the horizon a range of sand-hills, 31 M. long, which separates the Sebu bay from the sea. This bay (p. 93) is now dry land, with the exception of two shallow lakes (Merja ez-Zerga and Merja Râs ed-Dôra) and large tracts of swamp. To the E. rises the Jebel Sarsar (1805 ft.), near Ksar el-Kebîr. On the left bank of the Sebu (ancient Subur), near the Mamora Forest, the largest plantation of cork-trees in Morocco, lies Mehedia or Mehdiya (pop. 500), a thriving seaport during the sway of the Almohades, but now fallen to utter decay. A fine Moorish town-gate of the 12th cent. and many ruins of the Portuguese period may be visited.

Rabât (Hot. Ignace, R. 2, pens. 10 fr., Hot. Alegría, Spanish, both unpretending; Brit. vice-cons., A. H. Cross; Engl. Church service), or Rbât, situated in the Tell (p. 93) on the left bank of the Bu Regreg, 138 M. from Tangier, is one of the sultan’s residences and vies with Tetuán (p. 102) as a most interesting coast-town. Its population together with that of Salee (p. 106) is 47,140 inhab., incl. 3000 Jews and 100 Europeans. As it is the ‘key of Morocco’, where the caravan routes from Tangier, Fez, and Casablanca (Marakesh) converge, and is also exposed to the attacks of the turbulent inland tribes of the Zemmûr and Zaïr, it has been fortified with an inner and two outer walls. A Fort, built in 1888–92, defends the entrance to the harbour, now much choked with sand. The difficulty of landing (charge for each passenger 2½ p.) has caused the trade of the place (imports and exports about 8 million 106francs) to decline and to fall behind that of Tangier, Larash, and Mogador. Several of the industries have long been famous (carpet-making, wool-weaving, woodwork, saffian leather, etc.).

Founded in 1197, opposite to Salee (see below), by the Almohade Yakûb ibn Yûsuf (p. 61), the still prosperous town is noted for its well-educated population, mostly Moorish, and its genuine Moroccan character. The dwelling-houses, in the Andalusian-Moorish style, vie in their internal architecture with those of Tetuán. Noteworthy are also the old town-gates, the portal of the Kasba, with the barracks of the Udaia, and the decayed Medersa (school of the learned), with its picturesque colonnaded *Court. At the S.E. angle of the town, not far from the harbour-gate and the Mohammedan cemetery, is the Mellah or Jews’ quarter.

Outside the Bâb el-Hâd, on the W. side of the inner town-wall, is the Jewish burial-ground, adjoining the Sûk el-Hâd, or Sunday market, the most important cattle-market in the whole country, supplied chiefly by the Zemmûr, Zaïr, and Zaiân tribes.—On the terrace of the coast, by the W. outer wall (reached also from the Bâb el-Alû by the road past the Christian cemetery), stands the handsome, but now disused sultan’s palace of El-Kebibât.

Beyond the Jews’ quarter, and not far from the *Bâb Shellah (1178–84) with its two octagonal towers, we see rising amidst orchards, above the Bu Regreg, the conspicuous *Hassan Tower, the great landmark of Rabât. This was once the minaret of a mosque, erected, according to tradition, by Jâbir (p. 62) for Yakûb ibn Yûsuf in 1197, but now entirely destroyed saving a few columns and fragments of masonry. The unfinished tower, with its notched arches and ornamentation in relief style, is 145 ft. high.

About 1 M. to the S. of the town, near the outer walls, is the Dâr el-Makhzen, a second palace of the sultan, with the burial-mosque of Mohammed XVII. and Mulaï Hassan (1873–94), and a beautiful garden.

Near this is the S.E. outer gateway. Among the neighbouring hills, beyond a small Mohammedan burial-ground, is a walled and turreted square enclosing the ancient town of *Shellah, the mouldering ruins of which are overgrown with rank vegetation; we find here an excellent well. In the dilapidated burial-mosque repose the Almohade Abû Yakûb (p. 61), the Merinide Ali V. (d. 1351), and other sovereigns.—A little way off, on the S. margin of the swampy and malarious river-flats, are famous orange-gardens.

A ferry connects Rabât with the antiquated town of Salee, Saleh, or Slâ, the Sala of the Carthaginians and Romans, which, down to recent times, was like Larash one of the most dreaded haunts of pirates (‘Salee rovers’) and one of the worst slave-markets in all Morocco. The town shows every sign of decay; but its gates, especially the Bâb el-Ansera (now walled up), with its two 107towers, the ruinous gate of the cemetery, and the domed tombs of saints, all present a most fascinating architectural picture.

Proceeding on her course the Steamer skirts a monotonous, treeless coast, broken only by the mouths of a few small rivers, with here and there a poor village. One of these villages is Fedalah (in the middle ages Afdalah), once a thriving little seaport, which was temporarily occupied by the Spaniards in 1773. On a headland much exposed to N. winds, 190 M. from Tangier, lies—

Casablanca.—Passengers are conveyed from the steamers, which anchor in the open roads to the N.E. of the town, to the new quay by boat (2½ p. each person).

Hotels. Hôt. Central, R. 4–5, B. 1, D. 2, pens. 10–12 fr., Hôt. de France, pens. 8–10 fr., both good; Hôt. Moderne, pens. 8–10 fr.; Hôt. de l’Univers; Hôt. de l’Europe; Hôt. Continental; Hôt. de Cuba, outside the town, Spanish.

Consuls. British, A. M. Madden; vice-consuls, E. G. Lomas, R. H. Broome.—United States Consular Agent, H. Toel.

English Church. St. John the Evangelist’s, outside the town; service every Sun. at 11 a.m.

Casablanca, Arabic Dâr el-Beida (‘the white house’), a town of 31,700 inhab. (incl. 2500 French and as many Spaniards), was founded in the 16th cent. by the Portuguese as Casa Branca on the ruins of the ancient (Phœnician?) town of Anfa. The place appears in mediæval Venetian charts as Níffe or Anafe, but it was abandoned by the Moors in 1468. The town was destroyed in 1755 by an earthquake simultaneous with that of Lisbon; it was not rebuilt till the 19th cent., and is now the most important outlet in the country for Moroccan commodities (exports and imports in 1909 ca. 25½ million fr.). To this centre are brought cattle from the neighbouring provinces, from the remoter districts of Tadla (or Tedla), and from the steppes of the Central Atlas, while the fertile region of Shâuya supplies it with grain and wool. Thanks to the peace and security which the French troops of occupation have restored trade has steadily increased.

The town, which is still enclosed by a wall of defence built in the Portuguese period, lies on a terrace of Devonian sandstone (E. side) and slate (W. side), in which the surf has worn a small shallow bay. The harbour thus formed is to be protected by a breakwater (in course of construction) which will make landing and embarking in all weathers possible (comp. above).—From the harbour we pass through the Waterport Gate into the main street of the Medina or Mohammedan business quarter. Most of the foreign consulates and banks and the international Anfa Club are situated in this street. Just off it are the British Consulate and the British Post Office, while higher up is the new French post-office. The Mellah, or Jewish quarter, lies on the S. side of the town.

108Near the Bâb es-Sûk, or S.E. gate, is the *Market (Sûk; comp, p. 335), and a little beyond it are the warehouses of the foreign merchants.

In the W. quarter (Tnaquer), which down to 1907 consisted chiefly of the reed-huts of the lower-class workmen, similar to those outside the S.W. gate (Bâb Marâkesh), modern stone dwellings have sprung up and public grounds also have been laid out. Farther out are the wooden barracks of the French and Spanish troops of occupation. On the low hills to the E. and S.E. are the new French forts ‘Provost’ and ‘Ihler’.

A considerable way beyond Casablanca the Steamer passes the mouth of the Um er-Rebîa (see below), on the left bank of which is Asimmûr, and a little farther on it casts anchor in the open roads of Mazagan, far outside the little harbour, which dates from the Portuguese period. (Landing or embarkation 3 p.)

Mazagan (Hôt. de l’Univers, pens. 6–8 fr.; Hôt. du Commerce, same charges; Brit. vice-cons., T. G. Spinney; pop. 25,500, incl. 3000 Jews and about 500 Europeans), formerly called El-Brîja by the Moroccans, now El-Jedida (‘the new’), 250 M. from Tangier, lies on a terrace on the W. shore of a large bay which is now much choked with sand. It was founded by the Portuguese in 1506, held by them down to 1769, and was their last possession in Morocco; but it long remained a place of no importance. The old town, square in shape, protected from the surf by a chain of cliffs, and altered after 1769, is still enclosed by its Portuguese wall of defence, which is 29 ft. thick at places. Several houses bearing Portuguese coats-of-arms and the Palace of the Inquisition in the N. angle of the town recall the Christian domination. In recent times Mazagan has developed into the chief seaport of Marakesh. The great Thursday market, held on the W. side of the town, and the granaries on the S. side afford an idea of the extent of its trade (imports and exports being estimated, when crops are good, at 20 million fr. per annum). The climate is considered very healthy.

The alcanna shrub (Lawsonia inermis) abounds in the environs. From its leaves is prepared the brownish-red henna, used for colouring the finger-nails. This ancient custom still prevails among both Mohammedans and Jews in N. Africa.

Excursions. The picturesquely situated town of Azimmûr, about 12½ M. to the E., lies on the Um er-Rebîa or Morbêya, the Asama of antiquity, a stream which separates the Shâuya region from the Dukkâla The town, with its 10,000 inhab., incl. 1000 Jews, contains the shrine of Mulaï bu Shaïb, much visited by pilgrims, and is environed with beautiful gardens of pomegranates, oranges, and figs. On the same river lie the orange-groves of Mhiula.—To the S.W. one may ride along the coast, past the Zâuya Mulaï Abdallah and the ruins of the Roman town of Tit, to Cabo Blanco (see below).

Leaving Mazagan we pass the Cabo Blanco (230 ft.; Arabic Jerf el-Asfâr) and then the Walediya Lake, ca. 40 M. long. Farther on, from the abrupt coast juts out Cape Cantin (450 ft.; Arabic Râs el-Hûdik), well known to mariners as a landmark, whence the coast runs S. to the Tensift (p. 109). We call next at—

109Saffi (Hot. Llamas; Brit. vice-cons., G. B. Hunot; pop. 19,750, incl. 2500 Jews), called also Safi or Asfi, 350 M. from Tangier. The harbour is inadequately sheltered from the W. and S.W. gales by a narrow neck of land and two cliffs, and its entrance is obstructed by a sandbank. (Landing or embarkation 1 p.) Saffi is the capital of the fertile region of Abda, noted for its horse-breeding, and girdled with black soil (comp. p. 93) fertile to a breadth of 37 M. at places. It lies picturesquely on a lofty chalk plateau, in an almost semicircular bay, amidst woods and green pastures, but is haunted by fever in summer. Prior to the foundation of Mazagan and Mogador it was the chief port of Marakesh, and like Agâdir (p. 110) was one of the most important harbours of S. Morocco, but its trade, mostly in European hands, has now fallen off (total about 10 million francs). The chief industry of the place, which has given its name to Saffian leather, is now the manufacture of pottery.

Close to the harbour lies the Jewish Quarter, and behind it is the Medina or Mohammedan quarter, both squalid. Adjoining the latter is the Spanish Catholic church. The picturesque Citadel at the E. end of the old town and the town-walls are of Portuguese origin. The Sûk, or market, is in the S. suburb of Rabbât.

The Steamer next sights, near the mouth of the Tensift, the Jebel el-Hadid (2182 ft.; ‘iron-mountain’; p. 110), already famed in Punic times for its iron-ore, the only considerable hill on the coast between this and Mogador. The vessel rounds Cape Hadid, the S. limit of the fertile coast-plain, sighting in the distance the spurs of the Great Atlas (p. 93), and soon reaches (410 M. from Tangier; landing or embarkation 2½ p.) the seaport of—

Mogador (Hôt. Royal, English; Palm Tree Hotel, 2½ M. to the S. of the town, prettily situated, good; Brit. vice-cons., H. B. Johnstone; U. S. cons. agent, G. Broome; Engl. Church service), called in Arabic Es-Sueïra also, with 24,350 inhab., incl. 12,000 Jews and a good many French, English, Spanish, and other Europeans. The new town with its straight lines of streets was erected in 1760–70 under Sultan Mulaï Sidi Mohammed on the site of Mogator, which was destroyed in 1755 by the same earthquake as that of Lisbon. In 1844 the town was stormed by French marines.

Mogador lies in 31° 31′ N. lat. and 9° 60′ W. long., on a flat spit of land, bounded on the W. by a small lake, beyond which rises a great range of sand-hills, at places 427 ft. high and 3¼ M. in breadth. To the S.W. a chain of cliffs and the rocky islet of Mogador, the only island on the coast of Morocco, form the harbour, which is much exposed to the sea-winds. The N. entrance to the harbour, between the town and the island, is about 825 yds. broad and 45 ft. deep; the broad S. entrance, opposite the mouth of the Wâd Kseb, is only 13 ft. in depth. Mogador serves as a port for 110the adjacent provinces of Shiâdma (or Shedma), Haha, and Mtûga, as well as a mart for goods from the Sûs (see below). It is the stronghold of Judaism in Morocco, as the Jews control the inland trade with Marakesh, and it is only of late that they have had European rivals in the ocean traffic. The total exports and imports amount to about 17 million francs.

We land not far from the Harbour Battery, mounted with antiquated guns, and proceed first to the Kasba quarter, where the governor’s house, the chief mosque, a synagogue, and the Spanish church are situated. From the Meshwâr, the principal square in the Kasba, a broad street leads to the Medina, the Mohammedan quarter, where a number of Europeans and wealthy Jews also reside. Here, in the centre of the town, is the Sûk, famed for the native copper wares, besides various goods from Marakesh, which are sold there. Beyond the market, in the N.E. angle of the town, is the Mellah, an extremely dirty quarter, with narrow streets, inhabited by the poorer Jews.

From the Bâb Marâkesh, the S.E. gate, we may follow the conduit, at first along the embankment between the bay of the harbour and the lake, and then past the Kubba of Sidi Mogdul, the local saint, to the winding valley of the Wâd Kseb. Here rises a ruinous Palace of the Sultan, and beyond the sand-hills lies the sadly neglected Sultan’s Garden.

The finest point in the wooded inland region near Mogador, which abounds in game, is the valley of Aïn el-Hajar (‘rock-spring’), 15½ M. to the N.E. From the Bâb Asfi, the N.E. town-gate, the route leads past the Christian and the large Jewish cemeteries, and follows the Saffi caravan-track along the coast, where at low tide it is pleasanter to ride on the beach. After about 2 hrs. we cross the hill to the E., where in the extensive growth of underwood are seen numerous argan-trees (Argania sideroxylon), the kernels of whose fruit yield a table-oil resembling that of the olive.—From Aïn el-Hajar we may in clear weather ascend the Jebel el-Hadid (p. 109), which rises to the N.; on the summit (2182 ft.) is a chapel dedicated to Sidi Yakûb, whence in the far distance we may descry the Great Atlas.

To the S. of Mogador lies the hilly region of Haha, skirting the base of the Great Atlas, and rich in olives and argan-trees, through which a rough caravan-route, running inland from Cape Tafetneh and passing Cape Gîr, leads to Agâdir (pop. 2500). This was formerly the seaport for the region of Sûs (p. 94), and was even the goal of caravans from the Sudan district, but since the building of Mogador has lost all European trade. In the 16th cent. Agâdir, under the name of Santa Cruz, was the southmost possession of the Portuguese in Morocco.

15. From Gibraltar to Genoa.

a. Through the Balearic Sea.

1000 M. Steamboats (see ‘Gibraltar Chronicle’, and comp. pp. 53, 114). White Star Line (from New York or Boston), two or three times monthly; North German Lloyd (from Southampton), monthly; Cunard Line (from New York), occasionally; Lloyd Sabaudo (from S. America), monthly.

On leaving Gibraltar (p. 52) the steamer enters the open Mediterranean and steers to the E.N.E., generally at an accelerated speed, as far as Cape Palos, owing to the strong current flowing in from the Atlantic (p. 5). Looking back, farther on, we enjoy in clear weather a splendid *View of the Straits, and especially of the coast of Morocco from Cape Spartel to the Punta de la Almina (p. 123), from which peep the white houses of Ceuta. The Rîf Mts. (Jebel Beni Hassan, p. 123) also remain visible for a time.

The Spanish coast with the Sierra Bermeja, the Sierra de Mijas, and the Punta de Calaburras (lighthouse) gradually recedes 112Far away to the left is the bay of Málaga. Off Cape Sacratif, with its lighthouse, we obtain a grand *View of the Sierra Nevada (p. 49), in front of which rise the almost entirely barren Sierra de Almijara, Sierra Contraviesa, and Sierra de Gádor. Near the Punta del Sabinal (lighthouse) opens the broad semicircular bay of Almería; in the foreground rise the bare hills of Cabo de Gata (1683 ft.; lighthouse), with the Puerto Genovés beyond.

Steering now to the N.E., we pass the Punta de Loma Pelada, backed by the Frailes (‘monks’), two huge pyramids of rock; then the Mesa de Roldán, the bay of Cartagena (p. 125), the Cabo Tiñoso, Cape Palos, and the island of Hormiga Grande, all with lighthouses. Nearing the Balearic Islands, we may descry to the left, in very clear weather, the coast-plain of Murcia and even the distant hills of Alicante, as far as Cabo de la Nao and Mongó. The vessel now steers round the Balearic Islands (see Baedeker’s Spain and Portugal), on the S.E. side if storms in the Gulf of Lions are expected, but usually through the bay of Valencia and the Balearic Sea. In this case we pass close to the island of Iviza, which is flanked on the S.W. (in front of the Atalayasa; 1559 ft.) by the bold rocky islet of Vedrá, and on the W. by the Bleda Islets and Conejera (with a lighthouse). On the N.E. point of Iviza is the lighthouse of Punta Grosa. In the foreground, farther on, appear the bold limestone slopes of the island of Dragonera, with a lighthouse (1191 ft.) visible for 40 M. round. Beyond it is Mallorca, or Majorca, the largest of the Balearic Islands, whose barren mountains, culminating in the Puig Mayor (4741 ft.) in the centre, are visible to their full extent beyond the little port of Soller.

From Cape Formentor (lighthouse), at the N.E. point of Majorca, the steamer proceeds due N.E. to the Ile du Levant or du Titan (lighthouse, visible for nearly 40 M. round), the eastmost of the Iles d’Hyères (p. 133), which flank the coast of Provence. The island of Porquerolles also, the westmost of the group, is visible. In favourable weather the *Voyage through the Ligurian Sea affords delightful views. The steamers vary their course, but usually steer towards Cape Ferrat near Villefranche, past Cape Camarat (lighthouse), the beautiful double bay of Cannes (with the Iles de Lérins opposite to it), and the Cap d’Antibes. On a clear day Nice is visible in the distance. We then skirt the Riviera di Ponente (p. 118), passing Ventimiglia, Oneglia, and Albenga, backed by the Maritime and the Ligurian Alps, snow-clad in winter and spring. On the picturesque coast between Nice and Bordighera the scenery changes rapidly. After the little bay of Villefranche (Villafranca), with Cape Ferrat (lighthouse), come Beaulieu, the grey rock village of Eze, close under the Grande-Corniche, and La Turbie, overtopped by the forts behind. We next sight the rock of Monaco, with its cathedral and huge marine museum, while among the houses of the little principality may be seen the less conspicuous casino of Monte Carlo. Beyond the olive-clad Cape Martin appears the bay of Mentone, with its superb circus of mountains, then Cape Mórtola, the Italian frontier-town of Ventimiglia, and, beyond the ravine of the Roja, the little town of Bordighera, with its cape and its dense olive and palm groves. Next come Ospedaletti, overlooked by the loftily-situated little town of Coldirodi, and San Remo, on a broad bay bounded by Capo Nero and Capo Verde. The coast is now less attractive till we are off Porto Maurizio, a provincial capital picturesquely situated on a headland, and approach Oneglia.

113Near Cape Berta we gradually leave the coast, pass Cape Mele, with its lighthouse (742 ft.) and Marconi station for wireless telegraphy, and steer across the *Gulf of Genoa. On the left lie Laigueglia, Alassio, and, beyond the fissured island of Gallinaria, the little town of Albenga. Next, on a semicircular coast-plain, lie the villages of Loano and Finale Marina, and a little beyond them rises the Capo di Noli. Beyond Cape Vado we overlook the bay of the industrial seaport of Savona, as far as the headland of Portofino (p. 134). In the background rise the Apennines and the Apuan Alps (p. 134), snow-capped in winter.

Steering through the Avamporto and the Porto Nuovo, we obtain a superb *View of Genoa, rising in a semicircle on the hill-side.

Genoa.—Arrival by Sea. The passenger-steamers land at the Ponte Federico Guglielmo (Pl. A, B, 3; with custom-house, post, telegraph, and railway offices) in the Porto or inner harbour. Failing room at that pier, they anchor near it (landing by boat, with luggage, 1 fr.; embarkation 30, at night 50 c.), or they are berthed at the Ponte Andrea Doria (Pl. A, 3).—At the custom-house examination the facchino of the dogana expects 20–30 c.

Railway Stations. 1. Stazione Piazza Principe (Pl. B, 2; Rail. Restaur., déj. 2–3, D. 3–4 fr.), in the Piazza Acquaverde, the chief station for all trains, where cabs (p. 114) and omnibuses are in waiting.—2. Stazione di Brignole or Orientale (Pl. H, I, 6), the E. station, Piazza Giuseppe Verdi, a subsidiary station for Pisa, Florence, Rome, etc.—Railway-tickets may be obtained also of the Fratelli Gondrand, Via Venti Settembre 35, and of Thos. Cook & Son (p. 114).

Hotels (mostly in noisy situations and variously judged). *Grand-Hôt. Miramare (Pl. mi; A, 2), Via Pagano Doria, above the principal station, with terrace, R. from 6, D. 6, omn. 2 fr.; Bertolini’s Bristol Hot. (Pl. p; F, 6), Via Venti Settembre 35, R. from 7, D. 7, omn. 1½ fr.; Gr.-Hôt. de Gênes (Pl. f; E, 5), R. from 5, D. 6–7, omn. 1 fr.; Eden Palace (Pl. b; G, 5), Via Serra 6–8, R. from 6, D. 5–7 fr.; Gr.-Hôt. Savoie (Pl. s: C, 2), above Piazza Acquaverde, R. from 4, D. 5–6, omn. ½ fr.; Gr.-Hôt. Isotta (Pl. a; F, 5), Via Roma 5–7, R. from 5, D. 6, omn. 1½ fr.—Hôt. de la Ville (Pl. d; D, 4), Via Carlo Alberto, R. from 4, D. 5, omn. 1 fr.; Britannia (Pl. y; C, 2), R. from 3 fr.; Modern Hot. (Pl. v; F, 6), R. from 4, D. 5, omn. 1 fr.; Continental (Pl. 1; E, 4), R. 4–10, D. 5, omn. 1–1¼ fr.—Less pretending: Hôt. de France (Pl. g; D, 5), R. 3–4, D. 4, omn. 1 fr.; Hot. Smith (Pl. e, D, 5; Engl. landlord), R. from 2½, D. 4, omn. 1 fr., good; Central (Pl. c; F, 5), R. 2–4½ fr.; Royal Aquila (Pl. k; C, 2), near the principal station, R. 3–5, D. 5, omn. ½ fr., 114good for passing tourists; Impérial (Pl. im; F, 6), R. from 3½ fr.; Regina (Pl. q; F, 6).—Hôtels Garnis. Splendide (Pl. x; F, 6), Bavaria (Pl. z; F, 5), Excelsior (Pl. w; E, 5), R. in all these from 3 or 4 fr.

Cafés. Roma, Via Roma 15; Milano, Galleria Mazzini; both are also restaurants.—Restaurants (Italian cookery). Trattoria del Teatro Carlo Felice (Pl. E, F, 5), good; Cairo, Via Venti Settembre 36; Ristorante della Posta, Galleria Mazzini, moderate, often crowded.—Beer. Giardino d’Italia and Peyer, both in Piazza Corvetto (Pl. F, G, 5); Gambrinus, Via San Sebastiano (Pl. F, 5).

Cabs. One-horse, per drive (to the E. as far as the Bisagno, to the W. to the lighthouse) 1, at night 1½ fr.; per hr. 2 or 2½ fr.; each addit. ½ hr. 1 or 1¼ fr.; to Nervi or Pegli 5, there and back, with ½ hr. stay, 7½ fr.—With two horses, ½ fr. extra in each case.—Night is from 9 (in winter from 7) till sunrise.—Small packages inside cab are free; each trunk 20 c.—Motor Cabs (taximeter) per drive of 1200 met. (⅔ M.) 1 fr. 20 c., each addit. 300 met. 20 c.; at night (10 or 8 to dawn) one-fourth extra. Trunk 25 c.

Tramways (6 or 7 a.m. till midnight). The chief lines are: 1. Piazza Principe (Pl. B, 2), Piazza Acquaverde (Pl. B, C, 2), Piazza Zecca (Pl. D, E, 3; funicular to Castellaccio), Piazza Corvetto (Pl. F, G, 5), and Piazza Deferrari (Pl. E, 6; 10 c.).—2. Piazza Principe, Piazza Acquaverde, Via di Circonvallazione a Monte (station for Castellaccio at San Nicolò, Pl. E, 1), Piazza Manin (Pl. I, 4), Piazza Corvetto, and Piazza Deferrari (25 c.).—3. Piazza Caricamento (Pl. D, 5), Piazza Principe, Via Milano (Pl. A, 2), Lighthouse (p. 117), San Pier d’Arena, Sestri Ponente, and Pegli (p. 117; 55 c.).—4. Piazza Raibetta (Pl. D, 5), Via di Circonvallazione a Mare (p. 116), and Stazione Orientale (Pl. H, I, 6; 10 c.).—5. Piazza Deferrari, Piazza Manin, Via Montaldo (Pl. I, 1), and Campo Santo (p. 117; 15 c.).—6. Piazza Deferrari, Via Venti Settembre, Ponte Pila (Pl. H, I, 7), and Nervi (p. 117; every ¼ hr., in 50 min., 45 c.); branch to the Lido d’Albaro (p. 117).

Post Office (Pl. F, 5), Galleria Mazzini (new building in the Piazza Deferrari, Pl. E, 6; see p. 116), open 8 a.m. to 9 p.m.—Telegraph Office (Pl. E, 6), Palazzo Ducale, Piazza Deferrari.

Steamers. Cunard Line (C. Figoli, Piazza San Marcellino 6), from New York, Gibraltar, and Genoa to Trieste; White Star Line (Piazza Annunziata 18), to Naples, Gibraltar, and New York or Boston; Nederland Royal Mail (Agenzia Olandese, Piazza Deferrari), from Southampton to Genoa, Port Said, and Batavia; North German Lloyd (Leupold Bros., Via Garibaldi 5), for Algiers and Gibraltar, for Naples and Port Said, for Marseilles and Barcelona, for Naples, Catania, the Piræus, Smyrna, Constantinople, etc.; Hamburg-American Line (Piazza Annunziata 18), to Naples and New York, also excursion-boats; Società Nazionale (Via Balbi 40), for Naples and New York (comp. R. 24); also circular tours to Cagliari, Tunis, Tripoli, Malta, Syracuse, Messina, Naples, and back to Genoa (RR. 25, 64, 27, 24); also to Palermo, Trapani, and Syracuse; to Palermo, Messina, the Piræus, Constantinople (Odessa and Batum); to Smyrna and Constantinople (RR. 27, 80); to Leghorn, Naples, Messina, and Alexandria (R. 67); to Naples and Port Said (R. 67); La Veloce (Via Garibaldi 2), to Naples and Teneriffe (for Brazil), and viâ Marseilles and Barcelona to Teneriffe (Colón); Italia (Via Venti Settembre 34) to Teneriffe and Buenos Ayres; Lloyd Italiano (Palazzo Doria, Via Andrea Doria), for Naples and New York (R. 24); Lloyd Sabaudo (Piazza San Siro), for Naples, Palermo, and New York (RR. 24, 26), and for Tarragona, Gibraltar, and Buenos Ayres; Compañía Trasatlántica (Giovanelli, Via Balbi, Salita Santa Brigida 2), for Barcelona, Lisbon, and Liverpool, for Port Said and Manila, and for Barcelona, Málaga, Teneriffe, and Buenos Ayres.

Bankers. Kirby & Le Mesurier, Via Carlo Felice 7; Thos. Cook & Son, Piazza della Meridiana, cor. of Via Cairóli (Pl. E, 4); Credito Italiano, Via San Luca 4; Banca Commerciale Italiana, Piazza Banchi 11 (Pl. D, 5).—Money Changers abound near the Borsa.—Bookseller. A. Donath, Via Luccoli 33.

115Consuls. British Consul-General, William Keene, Via Assarotti 11; vice-consul, A. Turton.—U. S. Consul-General, J. A. Smith, Via Venti Settembre 42; vice-consul, J. W. Dye.

Churches. English (Church of the Holy Ghost), Via Goito (Pl. G, 4; services at 8:15 and 11 a.m., occasionally also at 4 p.m.); Presbyterian, Via Peschiera 4 (service at 11 a.m.).

Sights. Museo Chiossone (p. 116), daily except Mon., 10–3, adm. 1 fr.; Palazzo Bianco (p. 116), daily, Oct.-March 11–4, April-Sept. 10–4, Sun. and Thurs. ¼ fr., other days ½ fr., free on last Sun. of each month; Palazzo Durazzo-Pallavicini (see below), daily 11–4, fee ½–1 fr.; Palazzo Rosso (p. 116), free daily, 11–4, except on Tues., Sun., and holidays.

Genoa, Ital. Genŏva, French Gênes, a city of 156,000 inhab., was a republic and a great naval power in the middle ages, rivalling Venice, but declined after the 16th cent.; in 1797 it became the capital of Napoleon’s ‘Ligurian Republic’, and since 1815 has belonged to the kingdom of Sardinia which is now merged in that of Italy. Next to Marseilles it is the greatest of Mediterranean seaports. The exports and imports in 1908 amounted to 6.4 million tons, and the tonnage of shipping to 14.4 millions.

From the pier, either the Ponte Federico Guglielmo or the Ponte Andrea Doria (p. 113), we cross the harbour-rails to the Palazzo Doria (Pl. A, B, 2), once presented by the republic to Andrea Doria (1468–1560), the famous admiral of Charles V., and enter the Piazza del Principe (Pl. B, 2; tramway, see p. 114), with its handsome bronze monument to the Marchese Deferrari, Duke of Galliera (d. 1876), to whose generosity Genoa is partly indebted for its new quays (1877–95).

The Via Andrea Doria leads hence to the E. to the Piazza Acquaverde (Pl. B, C, 2), the square in front of the Railway Station, where, amid palms, rises a monument to Columbus, who was probably born at Genoa in 1451 (d. at Valladolid in 1506).

To the S.E. from this piazza runs a narrow line of streets, the chief artery of traffic, adorned with superb late-Renaissance edifices, built chiefly by Galeazzo Alessi (1512–72), named Via Balbi, Via Cairóli, and Via Garibaldi, and ending at the Piazza Fontane Marose. Several of the palaces are well worth seeing, especially for the sake of their grand staircases.

No. 10, on the right side of the Via Balbi, is the Palazzo Reale (Pl. C, 3), built after 1650 for the Durazzo family, and purchased in 1817 for the royal house of Sardinia. No. 5, on the left, is the Palazzo dell’Università (Pl. D, 2, 3), begun by Bart. Bianco in 1623 as a Jesuit school. The *Court and the staircases are considered the finest in Genoa.

Farther on, to the right, No. 4 is the Palazzo Balbi Senárega; No. 1, on the left, is the Palazzo Durazzo-Pallavicini (Pl. D, 3), both by Bart. Bianco. The picture-gallery in the latter (adm., see above) contains portraits by Rubens and Van Dyck, painted during their visits to Genoa.

116We cross the Piazza dell’Annunziata (Pl. D, 3) with the handsome baroque church of that name on the left, and the small Piazza della Zecca (Pl. D, E, 3; funicular to Castellaccio, p. 117), and then follow the Via Cairóli (Pl. D, E, 4) to the—

*Via Garibaldi (Pl. E, 4), which is flanked with numerous palaces. No. 13, on the left, is the Palazzo Bianco; No. 18, on the right, the Palazzo Rosso; both once belonged to the Brignole-Sale family, but were bequeathed to the city by the Marchesa Brignole-Sale (d. 1889), widow of the Duca di Galliera (p. 115), and converted into the two galleries named Brignole-Sale (adm., see p. 115). Most of the other palaces were designed by Gal. Alessi.

From the Piazza Fontane Marose (Pl. F, 4, 5) the short Via Carlo Felice leads to the S.W. to the Piazza Deferrari (Pl. E, 5, 6), the centre of the city and focus of most of the tramway-lines (p. 114). The Accadémia di Belle Arti (Pl. E, F, 6), on the E. side of the Piazza, contains the valuable Museo Chiossone (adm., see p. 115), a collection of Japanese and Chinese works of art.

The busy Via Roma (Pl. F, 5) leads to the N.E. from the Piazza Deferrari, past (right) the Galleria Mazzini, to the Piazza Corvetto (Pl. F, G, 5), adjoining which, on the left, on an old bastion is the Villetta Dinegro (Pl. F, 4; 242 ft.; fine views), a beautiful public park.

From the S.E. side of the Piazza Deferrari, where the new buildings of the Exchange (Borsa) and the Post Office are in progress (Pl. E, F, 6), runs the broad new Via Venti Settembre (Pl. F-H, 6, 7), the favourite promenade of the citizens, leading to the Bisagno Valley and the Stazione Orientate (p. 113). Immediately before we reach the street-viaduct we may turn to the right, cross the Piazza Ponticello (Pl. F, 6, 7), and ascend the Via Fieschi to *Santa Maria di Carignano (Pl. E, 8; 172 ft.), built by Gal. Alessi. The gallery of the dome (249 steps; sacristan 25 c.) is a splendid point of view. The Via Nino Bixio and Via Corsica (Pl. E, F, 8, 9) lead thence to the—

*Via di Circonvallazione a Mare, skirting the coast on the site of the old town-ramparts, named Via Odone and Corso Aurelio Saffi (Pl. E-H, 9, 10; tramway No. 4, see p. 114).

From the S.W. angle of the Piazza Deferrari the short Via Sellai leads to the Piazza Umberto Primo (Pl. E, 6). On its N. side rises the old Palazzo Ducale, or palace of the doges (telegraph-office), approached by a handsome flight of steps. On the S.E. side is the ornate Jesuit church of Sant’ Ambrogio, containing a Presentation in the Temple and the Miracles of St. Ignatius by Rubens.

From the Piazza Umberto Primo the busy Via San Lorenzo leads to the N.W., past the Cathedral (Pl. E, 5, 6; San Lorenzo), dating from the 12–17th cent. (in the left aisle the fine early-Renaissance chapel of San Giovanni Battista), back to the—

Harbour. Following the tramway to the right to the Piazza Raibetta, we observe on the left, between that piazza and the Piazza Caricamento, the Gothic Palazzo di San Giorgio, once the seat of the great merchants’ bank of that name. Beyond the Piazza Caricamento 117the noisy Via Carlo Alberto (Pl. D, C, 4–2) leads to the N. past the Darsena, once the naval harbour, to the Piazza Principe and to the piers, affording a glimpse at the harbour traffic.

From the Piazza della Zecca (p. 116) a Funicular Tramway (50 c.) ascends every 10 min. to San Nicolò (Pl. E, 1; change cars) and *Castellaccio, loftily situated. At the terminus (about 1025 ft.; Ristorante Beregardo, déj. 2½, D. 4 fr., commended) there is a splendid view of the Bisagno Valley with the Campo Santo (see below). About ½ M. to the N.W. rises the old fort of Castellaccio (1254 ft.), which commands an admirable survey of Genoa and the coast from Savona (p. 113) to the headland of Portofino (p. 134).

On the rocky Capo del Faro, between Genoa and San Pier d’Arena, rises the Lanterna, a great Lighthouse, 230 ft. high, from the foot of which we obtain another extensive *View. Tramway as far as the tunnel (No. 3; p. 114).

From the Piazza Deferrari a tramway (No. 5) leads by the Piazza Manin (Pl. I, 4) to the N.E. to the Campo Santo or Cimitero di Staglieno; which rises above the Val Bisagno on the N. bank.—We may take the tramway or a motor-omnibus also to the Lido d’Albáro, a popular resort and sea-bathing place below the road to Sturla and Nervi.

Favourite excursions from Genoa are (tramways Nos. 6 and 3) to Nervi, 7½ M. to the E., on the Pisa line, and to Pegli, 6¼ M. to the W., on the Ventimiglia line. Nervi has a beautiful marine parade, and at Pegli is the Villa Pallavicini. (The entrance of the villa is immediately to the left of the exit from the rail. station; adm. on week-days except Frid. and festivals, 10–3; on Sun. and holidays 9–2; fee 1 fr.)—A superb view is obtained from the Portofino-Kulm (1477 ft.; Hôt.-Restaur., déj. 5, D. 7 fr.), on the Monte di Portofino (p. 134). Motor-omn. direct from Genoa, Piazza Deferrari; also 4 times daily from Recco station, 13 M. to the E., on the Pisa line.

See also Baedeker’s Northern Italy.

b. Viâ Algiers.

1086 M. North German Lloyd on alternate Saturdays, in 3 days (to Algiers in 25 hrs., fare 66 or 44 marks; thence to Genoa 33 hrs., fare 77 or 55 marks). The Hamburg-American and the Austrian Lloyd steamers sometimes ply between Gibraltar and Algiers. The Navigation Mixte usually sends steamers from Gibraltar to Oran (hence to Algiers by railway). Steamers of the German Levant Line and others also are available as far as Algiers.—Agents at Gibraltar, see p. 53; at Algiers, p. 219; at Genoa, p. 114. See also ‘Gibraltar Chronicle’.

The vessel steers to the E. from Gibraltar, between the Spanish coast, which remains in sight as far as the Cabo de Gata (comp. R. 15 a), and the flat volcanic island of Alborán (48 ft.), the ancient Drinaupa, now belonging to Spain. The distant Sierra Nevada (p. 49) peeps here and there above the horizon.

118Off Cape Ivi (lighthouse), beyond the mouth of the Chélif (p. 208), we sight the Tell Atlas (p. 169) on the Algerian coast. We then pass the very prominent Cape Ténès (p. 209) and, beyond Cherchell (p. 244), the massive Jebel Chenoua (p. 242), near which we survey the beautiful Bay of Castiglione (p. 237), backed by the hills of Sahel and extending to Mont Bouzaréah (p. 235).

By Râs Acrata (p. 237) we near the coast, pass the lighthouse on the low Cape Caxine (p. 237) and the picturesque cliffs of Pointe Pescade (p. 237), then St. Eugène (p. 236) and the church of Notre-Dame d’Afrique (p. 236), and enter the harbour of Algiers (p. 217).

Leaving Algiers for Genoa the vessel steers to the N.N.E., affording a fine parting view of the Bay of Algiers and the coast as far as Cape Bengut (p. 127). Corsica (p. 143) is visible in clear weather only. We near the Riviera di Ponente off Porto Maurizio (p. 113) and soon enter the harbour of Genoa (comp. p. 113).

16. From Gibraltar to Naples.

1118 M. Cunard Line (from New York) and White Star (from New York or Boston), each two or three times a month, in 3 days (fare 5l. 10s.); Orient Royal (from London), fortnightly; North German Lloyd (from New York or Southampton), three or four times a month (120 or 88 marks); Hamburg-American Line (from New York), once or twice a month.

For Gibraltar, and the first part of the voyage, comp. p. 52 and R. 15 a. Astern appears the majestic Sierra Nevada (p. 49).

Steering to the E.N.E., we sometimes see the Algerian coast to the S., from Cape Ténès (p. 209) to the Bay of Algiers (p. 221) and the hills of Great Kabylia (p. 252).

After many hours’ steaming we next sight the uninhabited rocky islet of Il Toro, off the S.W. coast of Sardinia, and the Golfo di Palmas (p. 129), between the island of San Antioco and the bold Cape Teulada, the ancient Chersonesus Promontorium, the southmost point of Sardinia. We pass the Isola Rossa Bay at some distance; then Cape Spartivento (lighthouse), at the S. end of the broad Bay of Cagliari (p. 144), which is only distinguishable in clear weather, and the granitic Isola dei Cavoli (lighthouse), lying off Cape Carbonara (p. 144). The Sardinian coast now rapidly disappears.

The steamer at length nears the Bocca Grande, 15 M. in width, the chief entrance to the *Bay of Naples (p. 135), between the islands of Ischia (left) and Capri (right), with Vesuvius in the distance. The S.W. point of Ischia is the picturesque Punta Imperatore (lighthouse). We steer past the S. side of the island, about 3 M. from the Punta Sant’ Angelo and the Punta San Pancrazio, then past the island of Procida and the hill of Posilipo, into the harbour of Naples (p. 135).

From Naples to Genoa, see R. 24.

From Lisbon to Tangier and (1150 M.) Marseilles (Naples, and Port Said) there are regular steamboat services (from Tangier or Gibraltar to Marseilles in 3 days) by the German East African Line (E. circular tour), once in three weeks, and the Rotterdam Lloyd, fortnightly.—From Gibraltar to Marseilles there are the Peninsular & Oriental, the Orient Royal, and other lines.—Steamboat-agents at Lisbon, Tangier, Gibraltar, and Marseilles, see pp. 8, 98, 53, 120.

From Lisbon to the Straits of Gibraltar, comp. p. 5; Tangier, p. 98; Gibraltar, p. 52.

The steamer skirts the Spanish coast from Gibraltar to Iviza (p. 112). The direct route to Marseilles is through the Balearic Sea (p. 112) and the Gulf of Lions, where storms often prevail; but when the mistral, or N. wind, blows a more westerly course is chosen, past the volcanic Columbretes islets (lighthouse) and along the coast of Catalonia.

At length, to the S.E. of the Rhone Delta, and flanked with bare limestone hills, we sight the Bay of Marseilles, bounded by the Cap Couronne, on the left, and the Cap Croisette, on the right. We pass the island of Planier (lighthouse) and the islands of Ratonneau, Pomègue, and If, and obtain a fine view of the church of Notre Dame de la Garde (p. 122) overlooking the city. The vessels usually steer through the Avant-Port Nord and the large new Bassin National into the Bassin de la Gare Maritime.

Marseilles.—Arrival by Sea. The North German Lloyd and German East African steamers anchor in the Bassin du Lazaret (Pl. B, 1). Those of the Générale Transatlantique Co. and Messageries Maritimes start from the Bassin de la Joliette (Pl. B, 2, 3). Most of the great British lines (P. & O., Orient Royal, Bibby, British India, etc.) have their own berths, as to which careful inquiry should be made. Note that most of these are a long way from the principal railway-station (1–1½ M.).

Railway Stations. The Gare St. Charles (Pl. F, 2), the main station, is the only one for through-passenger traffic. See the French Indicateur as to trains, several of which run in winter only; others correspond with the P. & O. and other steamers for Egypt, India, Australia, etc.

Hotels (mostly in noisy situations). *Regina (Pl. f; D, 3), Place Sadi-Carnot; *Louvre & de la Paix (Pl. a; E, 4), *Noailles & Métropole (Pl. c; E, 4), and Grand (Pl. b; F, 4), all in the Rue Noailles; Bristol (Pl. w; E, 4), Rue Cannebière, new. These five are of the first class (R. from 4 or 5, B. 1½, déj. 4–4½, D. 5–6 fr.).—Petit-Louvre (Pl. d; E, 4), Rue Cannebière 16; Genève (Pl. m; D, 4), Rue des Templiers 3, R. from 3½, B. 1½, déj. 3, D. 4 fr., well spoken of; Castille & Luxembourg (Pl. e; E, 5), Rue St. Ferréol, R. from 3, B. 1¼, déj. 3, D. 4 fr.; Des Phocéens (Pl. i; E, 4), Rue Thubaneau 4, R. from 3, B. 1, déj. 3, D. 4 fr., good; Continental (Pl. j; D, 4), Rue Beauvau 6, R. from 2½, B. 1, déj. 3, D. 3½ fr.—Near the Railway Station: Terminus Hotel (Pl. g; F, 2), R. 5–10 fr.; *Russie & Angleterre, Boul. d’Athènes 31 (Pl. E, 3), R. from 4, B. 1¼, déj. 3, D. 4 fr.; Bordeaux & Orient (Pl. k; E, 3), same boulevard, No. 11, R. from 3, B. 1½, déj. 3, D. 3½ fr.—Hôtels Garnis (R. 3–4, B. 1½ fr.): Gr. Nouvel Hôtel (Pl. u; F, 4), Boul. du Musée 10, good; Modern Hotel (Pl. s; D, 4), Rue Cannebière 50; Riche et du Vingtième Siècle (Pl. v; E, 4), same street, No. 1.

120Restaurants. *La Réserve, Palace Hotel, Chemin de la Corniche, of the first class.—*Isnard, Hôt. des Phocéens (p. 119); de Provence, Cours Belsunce 12, good.—Cafés, best in Rue Cannebière and Rue Noailles.—Brasserie de l’Univers, at the Hotel Bristol (p. 119); Strasbourg, Place de la Bourse 11.

Cabs (voitures de place, same fares by day or night). In the inner city, to the Traverse de la Joliette (Pl. B, 2) in the N., and to Boul. de la Corderie and Boul. Notre Dame in the S.W.: one-horse carriage (2 seats) per drive, 1½, per hour 2½ fr.; two-horse carr. (4 seats) 2 or 3 fr.; trunk 25 c. per drive, 50 c. per hour.—As overcharges are frequent, the tariff should be asked for.—Motor Cabs (taximeters for 3 pers.), 1 fr. for the first 800 metres (ca. ½ M.), 20 c. each addit. 400 m.; 3 fr. per hour.

Tramways (in the town, 10 c.; no transfer tickets). Among the chief are: from Place de la Joliette (Pl. C, 2) to Boul. Vauban (Pl. D, 7; Notre Dame de la Garde, p. 122); from Quai de la Joliette to the Zoological Garden (Pl. H, 2; Palais de Longchamp, p. 122); from Zoological Garden to Boul. Notre Dame (Pl. D, 6, 7; lift to Notre Dame de la Garde) and Boul. Vauban (Pl. D, 7); from the Cours St. Louis (Pl. E, 4) viâ the Prado (p. 122), the Corniche (p. 122), and Endoume, back to the Cours St. Louis (15 c.).

Transporter Bridge (Pont Transbordeur; Pl. B, 4, 5; p. 121), between Quai de la Tourette and Boul. du Pharo, in 2 min. (5 c.).

Steamboat Lines. Peninsular & Oriental (Estrine & Co., Rue Colbert 18), from London to Gibraltar, Marseilles, and Port Said (RR. 1, 17, 67); Orient Royal (Worms & Co., Rue Grignan 28), from London to Gibraltar, Marseilles, Naples, and Port Said (RR. 1, 17, 23, 67); North German Lloyd (W. Carr, Rue Beauvau 16), to Goletta (Tunis) and Alexandria, to Naples and Alexandria, also to Genoa, Naples, Catania, the Piræus, Constantinople, etc. (RR. 22, 23, 24, 67, 77, 80); German East African (W. Carr), from Southampton to Lisbon, Tangier, Marseilles, Naples, and Port Said (RR. 1, 23, 67); Bibby (Watson & Parker, Rue Beauvau 8), from Liverpool to Marseilles, Port Said, etc. (R. 67); British India (G. Budd, Rue Beauvau 8), from Port Said to Genoa, Marseilles, and London; Rotterdam Lloyd (Ruys & Co., Rue de la République 29), to Port Said (R. 67); Messageries Maritimes (Place Sadi-Carnot 3), to Naples, Piræus, Constantinople, and Beirut (RR. 77, 75), also to Constantinople, Odessa, and Batum (RR. 83, 85), also to Alexandria, Port Said, and Beirut (RR. 67, 72); Générale Transatlantique (Rue Noailles 15), to Oran and Cartagena (RR. 19, 18), also to Algiers, Bougie, Philippeville, and Bona (R. 20), also to Tunis and Malta (R. 21, 63), and to Sfax and Susa (RR. 21, 64); Transports Maritimes (Rue de la République 70), to Gibraltar and Madeira (R. 3), to Oran (R. 19), to Algiers, Philippeville, and Bona (R. 20), and to Tunis (Susa; RR. 22, 64); Navigation Mixte (Touache Co., Rue Cannebière 54), to Oran (R. 19), to Tangier viâ Oran (RR. 19, 18), to Algiers and Philippeville (R. 20), to Tunis, Sfax, and Tripoli (RR. 21, 64), and to Palermo (RR. 21, 26); Chargeurs Réunis (Worms & Co., see above), from Dunkirk to Marseilles, Genoa, and Naples (for E. Indies, S. America, etc.); Fraissinet & Co. (Place de la Bourse 6), to Ajaccio and Bastia (and Leghorn); N. Paquet & Co. (Place Sadi-Carnot 4), to Oran (if required), Tangier, and the Moroccan ocean-coast (R. 14); Compañía Mallorquina, to Palma (Majorca).

Post & Telegraph Office. Hôtel des Postes (Pl. D, 3), Rue Colbert; branches at the railway-station (p. 119), at the Bourse (Pl. D, E, 4), etc.

Tourist Agents. Thos. Cook & Son, Rue Noailles 11 bis; Lubin, Rue des Feuillants 14.—Banks. Banque de France (Pl. E, 6), Place Estrangin-Pastré; Crédit Lyonnais, Rue St. Ferréol 25 (Pl. E, 4, 5).

Consuls. British Consul-General, M. C. Gurney, Rue des Princes 8; vice-consuls, T. Broadwood, F. J. Hamling.—U. S. Consul-General, A. Gaulin, Cours Pierre-Puget 10; vice-consul, P. H. Cram.

English Church, Rue de Bellois 4; services at 10.30 and 3.30.

Marseilles, Fr. Marseille, the second-largest city in France, with 517,500 inhab., the Massalia of the Greeks and Massilia 121of the Romans, was founded by Greeks from Phocæa (p. 530) in Asia Minor about 600 B. C., and soon became one of the greatest seaports on the Mediterranean. During the Roman period it vied with Athens as a seat of Greek culture; in the middle ages it belonged to the kingdom of Arelate, and later to the county of Provence, and in 1481 it was at length annexed to France. Being situated at the mouth of the great and time-honoured route through the Rhone Valley to N.W. Europe, it is the most important of French and of all Mediterranean seaports. The total exports and imports are estimated at 2926 million francs, and nearly 17 million tons of shipping enter and clear annually. The city is now almost entirely modern and destitute of historical memorials.

From the Bassin du Lazaret (Pl. B, 1) and Bassin de la Joliette (Pl. B, 2, 3), the southmost of the docks constructed since 1850 to the N.W. of the old town, we follow the Quai de la Joliette to the—

*Cathedral (Pl. B, C, 3; Ste. Marie Majeure or La Major), situated on a terrace. This is one of the largest and finest churches of the 19th cent.; it was built by Vaudoyer, in a mixed Byzantine and Romanesque style, in 1852–93. Adjacent is the Old Cathedral of St. Lazare, which is shown by the sacristan of the new church.

From the Place de la Major the Esplanade de la Tourette leads to the S. to the *Vieux Port (Pl. C, D, 4, 5), the Lakydon of the Phocæans, a deeply indented creek, where smaller craft only are now berthed. The entrance to it is guarded by the old forts of Grasse-Tilly and Entrecasteaux. Just inside the entrance the harbour is crossed by the Pont Transbordeur or Transporter Bridge (p. 120); for the sake of the view we may ascend either to the trolley-way (buffet-restaurant) or to the top of the N. tower (steps up and down 50 c.; lift up 60, up and down 75 c.).

On the N. side of the Quai du Port (Pl. C, D, 4), the scene of motley popular traffic (pickpockets not uncommon), lies the Old Town, with its narrow and dirty streets, inhabited by the lower classes, including numerous Italians of whom the city contains about 100,000. This quay leads past the Hôtel de Ville (Pl. C, 4), an interesting building of the 17th cent., to the E. end of the Vieux Port, where begins the—

*Rue Cannebière (Pl. D, E, 4), which for ages has been the chief boast of the city. Here, on the left, is the Bourse (Pl. E, 4), erected by Coste in 1852–60.

This street, prolonged by the Rue Noailles, the Allées de Meilhan, etc., intersects the city from S.W. to N.E., and at the Cours St. Louis (Pl. E, 4), the chief centre of traffic, it is crossed by a straight line of streets running from N.W. to S.E., the Cours Belsunce, Rue de Rome, and Promenade du Prado, to the Rond Point (p. 122), being in all nearly 3 M. long.

122The Rue Noailles (Pl. E, 4), from the end of which the Boulevard Dugommier ascends to the railway-station, and the pretty Allées de Meilhan (Pl. F, 4) lead to the modern-Gothic church of St. Vincent de Paul (Pl. F, 3), with its two towers commanding a great part of the city.

A little to the left is the Cours du Chapitre, leading into the Boulevard Longchamp (Pl. G, H, 3, 2), a street ascending steeply to the *Palais de Longchamp (Pl. H, 2). This imposing Renaissance edifice was designed by Espérandieu, the architect (1862–9). The Ionic colonnade, with a lofty triumphal arch in the centre, where a picturesque cascade has been introduced, is flanked with two wings, the right containing the Natural History Museum, and the left the Museum of Fine Art (adm. daily except Mon. and Frid., 8–12 and 2–5 or in winter 9–12 and 2–4; closed 20th–31st Jan. and 20th–31st July).

The groundfloor contains sculptures. In the centre is the principal hall. The room on the left contains works by the Marseillais master Pierre Puget (1622–94); in that on the right is a model of the Monument to the Dead in Père Lachaise at Paris, by Bartholomé. The staircase is adorned with a wall-painting by Puvis de Chavannes (1869).

On the first floor is the picture-gallery. Among the older pictures in the central room are: 361. Nattier, Duchesse de Châteauroux; 788. Pietro Perugino, Holy Family; 914. Rubens, Boar-hunt (about 1615). In the modern department, in the room on the left: 430. J. Fr. Millet, Mother and child (1860).

The main streets of the S. quarter of the town are the Rue de Rome, which begins at the Cours St. Louis (p. 121), and a little to the W. of it the handsome Cours Pierre-Puget (Pl. E, D, 5, 6), ending in the Promenade of that name.

A little to the S., on a bold rock of white limestone, is enthroned the church of *Notre Dame de la Garde (Pl. D, 7; 532 ft.), a great landmark for mariners, where we obtain the finest view of the city and its environs. Lift (Ascenseur; Pl. D, 7) from the Rue Cherchell (up 60, down 30, return 80 c.; on Sun. and before 9 a.m., 40, 20, or 50 c.).

On a fine day the traveller will be repaid by a visit to the *Chemin de la Corniche (comp. Pl. A, 6; tramway, p. 120). From Notre Dame de la Garde it may be reached direct in about 40 min. by the Chemin du Roucas-Blanc. This road, partly hewn in the rock, and shadeless, affords fine views. It ends, near the Château Borély, which stands in a park and now contains the Musée d’Archéologie, at the—

Promenade du Prado, a favourite resort of the Marseillais, planted with plane-trees. A gay throng may be seen here on Sunday afternoons and every fine evening. We may return thence to the town by the Rond Point du Prado.

See also Baedeker’s Southern France.

From Marseilles to Naples, see R. 23.

From Tangier to Oran (301 M.). Mail steamers of the Navigation Mixte, every Wed. afternoon, in 52½ hrs. (fares, without food, 80 and 60 fr.), viâ Melilla and Nemours (returning viâ Beni-Saf, Nemours, Melilla, and Tetuán); also cargo-steamers viâ Málaga, Melilla, and Nemours, in 3–4 days, leaving Tangier every second Tuesday (Málaga Wed.). Also steamers of the Hungarian Adria (fare, without food, 30 fr.). Agents at Tangier, see p. 98; at Málaga, p. 89; at Oran, p. 176.

From Cartagena to Oran (132 M.). Comp. Générale Transatlantique every Tues. in 9 hrs. (fares, without food, 50 and 35 fr.; pier-dues at Cartagena 3 or 2 fr.; agent J. M. Pelegrin, Plaza de la Aduana 1; at Oran, p. 176). This is the shortest sea-route to Algiers and is recommended to those who are bad sailors. Passport necessary.

Steering from Tangier (p. 98) to the E.N.E. through the Straits of Gibraltar, the vessel passes Cape Malabata (p. 57), Cape Alboasa, and the fine shore of the Cala Grande, to which the Rio de las Ostras descends from the Sierra San Simonito, a branch of the Anjera Mts. (p. 103). In the little bay on the E. side of the Punta Alcázar, scarcely visible from the sea, lie the ruins of Ksar es-Serîr, a small seaport founded by Yakûb ibn Yûsuf (p. 61), which prospered in the later middle ages, and belonged to the Portuguese from 1448 to 1540.

Off Cape Ciris (p. 5) the steamer nears the abrupt slopes of the Sierra Bullones (p. 103) and then passes the Isla del Peregil (243 ft.), which is overgrown with underwood and contains a large grotto (Grotta de las Palomas, visited from Ceuta). Beyond Cape Leona and the Bay of Benzus the region of Ceuta (p. 103) is reached. Fine view of the bay of Algeciras (p. 56) and the rock of Gibraltar to the N.

After passing the bay of Ceuta and the N. and E. headlands of the peninsula of Almina (p. 103), the Punta Santa Catalina (p. 5) and the Punta de la Almina (lighthouse), we obtain an admirable view of the Moroccan coast, extending from the Sierra Bullones (p. 103) to the finely shaped Jebel Beni Hassan. In the centre, between Cabo Negro (p. 103) and Cabo Mazari, is the deep depression of the plain of Tetuán (p. 102), where the steamers of the Navigation Mixte call on their voyage to Tangier only.

The vessel now steers to the E.S.E. towards Cape Tres Forcas, quite apart from the Rîf Coast, a hill-region inhabited by the Ruâfa (sing. Rîfi) and still forming part of the Blad es-Siba (p. 96). It lies between the Wâd Waringa, the river bounding the province of Tetuán, and Cape Tres Forcas. In the bay of Alhucemas rise the rocky islets of Peñón de Vélez de la Gomera and Islas de Alhucema, with two Spanish ‘presidios’. The Betoya, the stretch of coast with its numerous creeks between Cape Quilates, on the E. side of the Alhucemas Bay, and Cape Tres Forcas, was for centuries the favourite haunt of the Rîf pirates (p. 96).

124Beyond the wedge-like Cape Tres Forcas, the ancient Sestiaria Promontorium (Arabic Râs Wark), jutting out 12½ M. seaward, we sight the long coast-line of the Bay of Melilla, into which the steamers from Málaga, passing some 20 M. to the W. of the island of Alborán (p. 117), steer direct.

Melilla (Hot. de Asia, Fonda la Africana, both at the harbour and plain), or Melila, a town of 9000 inhab., the only Mediterranean port on the Morocco coast besides Ceuta and Tetuán lies most picturesquely on the spurs of Monte Melila or Caramu (3235 ft.), a little to the N. of the marshy, fever-stricken mouth of the Rio del Oro. Its site is probably that of the ancient Rusaddir (p. 95), where ended the great Roman military road, about 1430 M. long, which connected Carthage with Mauretania. Melilla is the oldest Spanish possession in Morocco, having been captured in 1496. In 1774 it was unsuccessfully besieged by a Moroccan army, and in 1893 it resisted an attack by the Berbers of the Rîf. Being a free port, it carries on a brisk trade with the coast-towns of the Algerian province of Oran, and many Moroccans from the interior embark here on their way to the harvesting in Algeria. The larger steamers anchor in the roads, which are tolerably sheltered from the W. winds only (landing or embarkation 50 c.). New harbour-works, however, are now under construction. The drinking-water of Melilla is not good.

Melilla consists of the small and tidy new town which has been built near the harbour since 1893 and contains a covered market, the shops of the Spanish-Jewish and Moorish tradesmen, and the promenade, and of the remarkably clean old town, enclosed by lofty walls, and occupying the nearly square plateau of a rocky headland. From projecting parts of the town-wall a fine view is obtained of the Fort Rosario, which is separated from the old town by the small Galápago Bay, and of the broad bay extending to the Chafarinas Islands (see below); in the background, beyond the Mar Chica or Lago de Puerto Nuevo (Arabic Sebkha Bu-Erg), a shallow lake 13 M. long, appears the lofty chain of Jebel Kebdana with the Monte de Tessan (3275 ft.).

Continuing our Voyage, we pass the Chafarinas Islands (French Iles Zafarines), occupied by the Spanish since 1848, which lie off the Cabo del Agua and form the only safe harbour on this coast as far as Oran. On the Isla Isabel Segunda, the central island, rises a lighthouse visible at a distance of 20 M.

We pass the mouth of the Mulûya (p. 93), the ancient Malucha (or Muluchath), which separated the provinces of Mauretania Tingitana and Mauretania Cæsariensis (p. 244), and was in the middle ages the boundary between the kingdoms of Fez and Tlemcen (p. 188). Beyond it, rising above the thickly peopled 125coast-plain of Tazagraret, rises the chain of Jebel Beni Snassen (p. 197), which belongs geologically to the Algerian Tell Atlas (p. 169). The political frontier between Morocco and Algeria is formed by the brook Oued Kiss or Adjeroud (comp. p. 169), near which, on the little Baie d’Adjeroud, and not far from Cape Milonia, lies the French seaport of Port-Say or Adjeroud.

In calm weather the steamers call at the bay of Nemours (p. 198), enclosed by the spurs of the Traras Mts. (p. 198; landing or embarkation 1 fr.). They then pass Cape Torsa and Cape Noé, where the plateau of Mont Tadjera (2592 ft.) is sighted, and steer to the N.E. towards Cape Figalo, at some distance from the little port of Honeïn (here the iron-ore of Rhar el-Maden is exported), the lighthouse on the island of Rachgoun (opposite the mouth of the Tafna, p. 185), and the port of Beni-Saf (p. 185). To the N.E., beyond Cape Figalo, appear the Isles Habibas (lighthouse), surrounded by reefs, and then, beyond Cape Lindless, the uninhabited little Ile Plane.

Beyond Cape Falcon (lighthouse; p. 184) we survey the broad Gulf of Oran (p. 126), as far as the Pointe de l’Aiguille. Immediately to the right, in the fertile Plaine des Andalouses, lies the village of Aïn et-Turk (p. 184); then, beyond the spurs of the Jebel Santon, the harbour of Mers el-Kébir (p. 183), with a fort and lighthouse. Entrance to the harbour of Oran, comp. p. 175.

Cartagena (Hot. de Francia y de Paris, Calle de Osuna and Plaza de la Aduana; Hot. Ramos, Plaza de Prefumo 8; Brit, vice-cons. J. C. Gray; U. S. cons. agent, A. J. Marks; pop. 41,300), founded by Hasdrubal in 221 B.C., the best natural harbour on the Spanish Mediterranean coast, is now the chief harbour of the Spanish navy. (It is reached by express from Madrid in 14 hrs.; sleeping-car on Mon., Wed., and Frid., 21 p. 25 c. extra.) The railway-station lies to the N.E. of the town, not far from Muelle de Alfonso Duodecimo, the quay, where the steamers are berthed. A charming view of the town and the bay is obtained from the Castillo de la Concepción (230 ft.), a ruined castle on a hill.

The entrance to the inner harbour, which is closed by the Dique de la Curra (lighthouse), is guarded by two forts situated on bold volcanic rocks, the Castillo de las Galeras (656 ft.) on the W., and the Castillo de San Julián on the E. (919 ft.). The outer bay is protected on the S.E. by the little island of Escombrera, the ancient Scombraria.

The Oran steamboats, soon after leaving Cartagena, steer due S., affording a retrospect of the lighthouses of Cabo Tiñoso to the W. and Cape Palos (p. 112) to the E., and they usually enter the Gulf of Oran (p. 126) before dawn.

615 M. Steamboat Lines (agents at Marseilles, see p. 120; at Oran, p. 176). Comp. Générale Transatlantique, rapide on Thurs. and Sat. aft. (in reverse direction Tues. and Thurs.), in 41 hrs., fare 81 or 59 fr.; Transports Maritimes, Tues. (returning Sat.), in 38 hrs., 75 or 55 fr.; cargo-boat Frid. (returning Tues.), in 46 hrs., 60 or 40 fr.; Navigation Mixte (Touache Co.), Wed. (returning Sat.), in 54 hrs., 60 or 40 fr.

Travellers in S. France may take a steamer of the Navigation Mixte from Cette (a seaport 90 M. to the W. of Marseilles) to Porte Vendres and Oran (Thurs. night), in 45 hrs., fare 90 or 65 fr.

Marseilles and its harbour, see p. 119.

Steering out into the Gulf of Lions and the Balearic Sea, the steamers at first either follow the same course as those to Gibraltar (R. 17), or a more easterly course, past Majorca and Dragonera (p. 112), towards the rock-bound strait between Iviza (p. 112) and the flat island of Formentera, the southmost of the Balearic group. In passing we obtain a fine view of the town of Iviza, with its old castle and loftily situated cathedral (see Baedeker’s Spain and Portugal).

Nearing the Algerian coast, we first sight the range of hills culminating in Jebel Orouze (p. 199), which separates the bays of Arzew (p. 199) and Oran. Entering the outer *Gulf of Oran, we survey its full extent from the Pointe de l’Aiguille to Cape Carbon (p. 264). On the left, rises the curiously shaped Jebel Kahar or Montagne des Lions (p. 184). In the foreground, in the inner bay bounded by Pointe Canastel and the headland of Mers el-Kébir (p. 183), lies the town of Oran, with the old fort of Santa Cruz rising high above it (p. 175).

20. Prom Marseilles to Algiers, Bougie, Philippeville, and Bona.

Steamers (agents at Marseilles, see p. 120; at Algiers, p. 219; at Bougie, p. 262; at Philippeville, p. 304; at Bona, p. 309). 1. Comp. Générale Transatlantique from Marseilles to Algiers (463 M.), rapide mail-steamers on Sun., Tues., Wed., and Frid. at noon (returning Sun., Tues., Thurs., Frid. at noon), in 26½ hrs.; from Marseilles to Bougie (455 M.), Tues. noon (returning Sat. evening), in 37½ hrs.; from Marseilles to Philippeville (455 M.), Sat. noon (returning Frid. noon), in 30 hrs.; from Marseilles to Bona (462 M.), Tues. aft. (returning Tues. night), in 31 hrs.; fares by the mail-steamers to Algiers 96 or 69 fr.; for the other three routes 81 or 59 fr.—2. Transports Maritimes, from Marseilles to Algiers (and back), Wed. and Sat. aft., in 35 hrs., fare 70 or 45 fr.; to Philippeville (Bougie), Sat. aft. (returning Wed. noon) in 36 hrs., fare 60 or 40 fr.; to Bona, Mon. (returning Thurs.) aft., in 37 hrs., fare 60 or 40 fr.—3. Navigation Mixte (Touache Co.), from Marseilles to Algiers, rapide on Thurs. noon (returning Sat. noon), in 32 hrs., fare 75 or 50 fr.; direct cargo-boat on Mon. aft. (returning Frid. noon), in 36 hrs., fare 60 or 40 fr.; to Philippeville (Bona), mail-steamer on Thurs. noon (returning Mon. noon), in 33 hrs., fare 75 or 50 fr.

127Cheap steamers to Algiers are the cargo-boats of Caillol & Duvillard (50 or 30 fr.) and of Prosper Durand (40 or 25 fr.).

Less frequented routes are those of the Navigation Mixte from Cette (90 M. to the W. of Marseilles) to Port Vendres and Algiers (Sat. night; 42 hrs.; 90 or 65 fr.); the Spanish Compañía Mallorquina (p. 120) from Marseilles and Barcelona to Palma and Algiers (twice monthly; passport necessary); and the Comp. Générale Transatlantique (cargo-boats), between Ajaccio and Bona (Thurs. evening; in 30–38 hrs.; 60 or 50 fr.).

Marseilles, see p. 119.

The Algiers steamer usually passes close to the E. side of the island of Minorca, the eastmost of the Balearic group, where, in daylight, the deeply indented natural harbour of Mahon, the chief town, specially attracts attention. When the sea is rough the course is sometimes more westerly, past Cape Minorca (lighthouse), the W. extremity of the island, while inland on the flat coast lies the town of Ciudadela; the vessel then passes at some distance from the Cabo de Pera (lighthouse), and from the hilly S.E. coast of Majorca, which is famed for its stalactite caverns (see Baedeker’s Spain and Portugal).

At length, in clear weather, we obtain a glorious *View of the Algerian coast, from the hills of Cape Bengut (lighthouse) to the E., and the Jurjura Chain and the Tell Atlas to the S.E., both snow-clad in winter, to the wooded hill-country of Sahel, culminating in Mont Bouzaréah, and Cape Caxine (lighthouse) to the W. We now enter the fine *Bay of Algiers (p. 221), bounded by Cape Matifou (lighthouse) on the N.E. and the cliffs of the Pointe Pescade on the N.W., and survey its whole expanse. To the left, in the Mitidja Plain, between Cape Matifou and the sand-hills at the mouth of the Harrach, lies Fort-de-l’Eau, a sea-bathing place; beyond the Harrach, on the hill, stands the church of Kouba; farther along the coast, among the houses of Hussein-Dey and Belcourt, lies the Jardin d’Essai, backed by the gardens of Mustapha-Supérieur; behind the harbour of Algiers rises the high terrace-wall of the boulevards; then, above the new town, the white houses and lanes of the Kasba on the spurs of the hill crowned with the Fort l’Empereur; lastly, on the slope of the Bouzaréah hill, between the N.W. suburbs Bab el-Oued and St. Eugène, appears Notre-Dame d’Afrique, the mariners’ church.—Arrival in the harbour, see p. 217.

On the voyage from Marseilles to Bougie the course is more easterly, out of sight of the Balearic Islands. The tedium of the voyage is at length compensated for near the Algerian coast by an imposing *View of the mountains of Kabylia, which after a snowfall in winter have quite an Alpine charm. To the W., between Cape Sigli and Cape Carbon (p. 264) lies the abrupt and almost uninhabited coast of Great Kabylia, overtopped by the lofty Jebel Arbalou (p. 262). To the S., behind the fine curved outline 128of the Gulf of Bougie (p. 130), and beyond the plain of the Soumane Valley, rise the heights of Little Kabylia, with the deep depression of the Agrioun Valley, and, to the S.E., the serrated range of Jebel Tababor (6460 ft.). To the E., beyond Cape Cavallo, stretches the hill-region of Djidjelli. In the N.E. angle of the bay, on the S. slope of the Jebel Gouraya, but long concealed by the three spurs of that mountain (Cape Carbon, p. 264, Cape Noir, and Cape Bouak, with its lighthouse), lies most picturesquely the quiet seaport of Bougie, embosomed in luxuriant evergreen vegetation (p. 262).

The crossing to Philippeville is specially recommended to travellers bound for Biskra direct, as they thus avoid the long railway journey from Algiers. The broad Gulf of Stora, with its numerous headlands and creeks and its beautiful wooded hills, presents a charming picture, especially in spring. In the background, in a pleasant creek, lies Philippeville (p. 304). In passing through the outer harbour we obtain a good view of the town.

On the voyage to Bona the first land sighted on the Algerian coast is the lofty Mount Edough (3307 ft.; p. 169), the spurs of which extend to the N.W. to the Cap de Fer (p. 131). The steamers then enter the Gulf of Bona, bounded on the W. by the Cap de Garde (lighthouse), the N.E. spur of Mt. Edough, and on the E. by Cape Rosa (p. 131). On the S. margin of the bay, above the marshy alluvial plain of the Seybouse and the Oued Mafrag, rise the peaks of the Tell Atlas.

On the W. side of the gulf, between the spurs of the Edough, lies Bona (p. 309), one of the most important and most beautiful seaports of Barbary, with rich verdure all around. Before entering the grand harbour, commanded by the hill of the Kasba, we view the Corniche Road (p. 311), while on the low hill of Hippo, to the S. of the town, rises the church of St. Augustine (p. 312).

21. From Marseilles to Tunis.

555 M. Steamboats (agents at Marseilles, see p. 120; at Tunis, p. 331). 1. North German Lloyd from Marseilles to Goletta (Alexandria) every second Wed. foren. (returning Sat. even.), in 30½ hrs. (90–150 or 60 marks).—2. Comp. Générale Transatlantique from Marseilles to Tunis direct (Malta, R. 63), Mon. at noon (returning Frid. aft.), in 31½ hrs. (96 or 69 fr.); viâ Bizerta to Tunis (Sfax and Susa, R. 64), Frid. at noon (returning Wed.), in 41 hrs. (81 or 59 fr.).—3. Navigation Mixte (Touache Co.) from Marseilles to Tunis direct (Sfax and Tripoli, R. 64), rapide mail-steamer Wed. at noon (returning Mon. afternoon), in 39 hrs. (75 or 50 fr.); cargo-boat viâ Bizerta to Tunis (Palermo, R. 26), Sat. evening (returning Thurs. at noon), in 49 hrs. (60 or 40 fr.).

Marseilles, see p. 119.—After remaining for some time in view of the coast of Provence as far as Cape Sicié (comp. p. 132), the vessel steers to the S.E. and loses sight of land.

129Off the Isola di Mal di Ventre we may catch a glimpse of the peninsula of Sinis, which lies on the N. side of the large Gulf of Oristano, on the W. coast of Sardinia, and at whose S. end once lay the Phœnician colony of Tharros. The bare and monotonous hills of the S.W. coast, with the well-known lead and zinc mines of the Iglesiente, the region round Iglesias, are only visible in clear weather. The steamer rounds the islands of San Pietro and San Antioco (p. 118), with its capital of the same name on the E. coast, occupying the site of the Phœnician Sulci. We pass the Golfo di Palmas, with the uninhabited islets of La Vacca, Il Vitello, and Il Toro (p. 118), and then Cape Teulada (p. 118), after which Sardinia is soon lost to view.

To the S.W. appears the distant Ile de la Galite (p. 132); then, on the coast of Tunisia, we descry the low spurs of the Tell Atlas (p. 320), with the headlands of Râs el-Koran, Râs Engelah (lighthouse; the northmost point of the African continent), Cap Blanc (lighthouse; the Promontorium Candidum of antiquity), and Cap de Bizerte or Cap Guardia (853 ft.; lighthouse). To the S.E. another lighthouse marks the rocks of ‘I Cani‘.

Some steamers call at Bizerta (p. 352); the others steer to the left, past the Cani and the island of Pilau (p. 132), towards the little Ile Plane (lighthouse), which lies off Cape Farina (Arabic Râs Tarf; the ancient Promontorium Apollinis), where we come in sight of the broad Gulf of Tunis, with the island of Zembra (p. 153) in the background.

We now cross the Bay of Utica (p. 353) to the S., which since ancient times has been largely filled up with the deposits of the Medjerda (p. 320), pass Cape Kamart (p. 351) and La Marsa (p. 351), and then reach the picturesque Cape Carthage (p. 351), with its lighthouse and the sea-baths and white houses of Sidi Bou-Saïd. We now enter the *Inner Bay of Tunis, commanded on the E. by Jebel Korbous (p. 364) and on the S. by Jebel Bou-Kornin (p. 363), Jebel Ressas (p. 358), and Jebel Zaghouan (p. 359); we pass close to the castle-hill of Carthage (p. 344), crowned with the cathedral, the sea-baths of Le Kram, Khéreddine, and Goulette Neuve (p. 344), and reach Goletta (or La Goulette; p. 343), a small seaport, situated on the tongue of land separating the Lac de Tunis or Lac Bahira (p. 332) from the open sea.

The steamer here enters the canal, 5½ M. long, 110 yds. wide, and about 20 ft. deep, constructed across the lake in 1893, where we have a good view of the white houses of Tunis. On the right lies the island of Chikly, with relics of a castle built by Emp. Charles V. The surface of the lake is sometimes enlivened by flamingoes. The steamer, at half-speed, takes another hour to reach Tunis (p. 329).

432 M. Steamers (touching at intermediate ports, 469 M.; agents at Algiers, see p. 219; at Bougie, p. 262; at Philippeville, p. 304; at Tunis, p. 331). 1. Comp. Générale Transatlantique, cargo-boat Wed. evening, viâ Bougie, Djidjelli, Collo, Philippeville, Bona, La Calle, Tabarca, and Bizerta, arrives at Tunis Sun. aft. (returning Sat. noon, arrives at Algiers Wed. morn.); 100 or 80 fr.; pier-dues at Tunis 4 or 3 fr.—2. German Levant Line, twice or thrice a month, generally calling at La Calle.—3. Hungarian Adria Co., cargo-boat twice a month to Tunis direct.

Or the voyage may be pleasantly divided as follows: Marseilles steamer of Comp. Gén. Transatlantique from Algiers to Bougie (Frid. evening; in 10 hrs.; 25 or 18 fr.); Marseilles steamer of Transports Maritimes Co. from Bougie to Philippeville (Tues. afternoon; in 12 hrs.; 18 or 12 fr.); Marseilles steamer of Navigation Mixte from Philippeville to Bona (Sat. forenoon; in 5 hrs.; 10 or 8 fr.); from Bona to Bizerta, by cargo-boat as above, or by railway; from Bizerta to Tunis by Marseilles steamer of the Comp. Gén. Transatlantique (p. 128; Sat. night; in 5 hrs.; 15 or 12 fr.).—The small coasting steamers of Prosper Durand of Marseilles and of the Lignes Cotières Algériennes, which call at most of the ports as far as Bona, can only be recommended for short voyages by daylight.

The coast scenery between Algiers and Tunis is exceedingly picturesque and varied, but the voyage is often very trying for bad sailors. Storms are most frequent between Djidjelli and Collo, and between La Calle and Bizerta, and fogs are not uncommon, even in summer.

Algiers, see p. 217. As the steamer leaves the harbour a beautiful *View is obtained astern of the town and of the coast as far as the Pointe Pescade (comp. p. 127). Beyond Cape Matifou the coast, overlooked by the serrated Jebel Bou-Zegza (p. 249), recedes for a time from view.

Near Jebel Djinet (p. 253), beyond the sand-hills at the mouth of the Isser (p. 253), begins the bold rock-bound coast of Great Kabylia, 87 M. in length, with its headlands and cliffs worn by the surf, its secluded little seaports, and its hill-sides carefully cultivated by the natives.

We pass the mouth of the Sebaou (p. 253), the largest stream in Kabylia, and Cape Bengut (p. 254), which affords scanty protection against the W. winds to the port of Dellys (p. 254); then Tigzirt (p. 255), Cape Tedless, and Port Gueydon or Azeffoun (lighthouse), with its roadstead open towards the W. Next comes the wildest and loneliest part of the coast, between Cape Corbelin and Cape Carbon; we pass Cape Sigli, the Pointe Timri n’Tguerfa, where Jebel Arbalou (p. 262) comes in sight, and Cape Boulima.

Beyond the little Ile Pisan or Djeribia, overlooked by the steep slopes of Jebel Gouraya (p. 265), the steamer rounds Cape Carbon (p. 264), passes Cape Noir and Cape Bouak, and enters the harbour of Bougie (p. 262).

The *Gulf of Bougie, in winter the finest part of this coast, presents many superb scenes (comp. 128), notably as we look back at the town of Bougie climbing the slope of Jebel Gouraya.

Near Cape Cavallo, in the E. part of Little Kabylia, the summits 131of Jebel Hadid (4780 ft.) and Msid Echta (5072 ft.) are specially prominent. We next pass the curiously shaped hill in the Ile du Grand-Cavallo, the Petit-Cavallo, and the headland Râs Afia (lighthouse), and reach the little seaport of—

Djidjelli (p. 267), pleasantly situated at the foot of green hills, where the steamers anchor in the open roads (landing or embarkation ½ fr.). If time permit, the Vigie should be visited.

The vessel now steers to the N.E. at some distance from the coast; we pass the mouths of the Oued Nil and the Oued el-Kébir, the ancient boundary between Mauretania and Numidia, and then the Râs Atia (lighthouse): Fine view of the Bougaroun Mts., commonly called Sahel de Collo, famed for their forest of cork-trees.

Near Cape Bougaroun or Bougaroni (lighthouse), the northmost point of Algeria, opens the broad Gulf of Stora (p. 128), bounded on the E. by the Cap de Fer (see below). On the W. bank of the gulf, in the little Bay of Collo, and between the peninsula of Djerda (lighthouse) and the Râs Frao, lies the small seaport of—

Collo (Grand-Hôtel, poor), important only for the export of cork, the ancient Chullu or Colonia Minervia Chullu, one of the four Coloniæ Cirtenses (p. 298), in a fertile hill-region. From the harbour (landing or embarkation 30 c.) we walk round the *Peninsula, planted with vines and cacti, and overgrown on the N. side with underwood, and affording splendid views of the gulf.

Steering to the E. we now skirt the coast, where the Cape El-Kalaa or Râs Bibi (535 ft.), rising abruptly on both sides, specially strikes the eye, and pass the Pointe Esrah and the bay of that name. By the islet of Sgrigina (lighthouse), which lies in front of the Pointe Akmês or Sgrigina, opens the Inner Bay of Stora, bounded by Jebel Filfila, a mountain rich in marble, while in the background lies the harbour of Philippeville (p. 304).

On the N.E. margin of the gulf, beyond the plain of the Oued el-Kébir, with its border of sand-hills, rise the spurs of Mont Edough (p. 128). The steamer next rounds the almost insular Cap de Fer (1148 ft.; lighthouse), where we again view the whole expanse of the gulf, and passes Cape Toukouch, which shelters the bay of Herbillon (lighthouse) from the W. and N.W. winds. We now steer to the E.S.E., past the bare Jebel Gouari (1880 ft.), Cape Axin, and the dark rock of the Voile Noire (213 ft.), towards the Cap de Garde (p. 128), which projects in front of the gulf of Bona.

Three hours’ steaming from Bona, past the low Cape Rosa, whose light is seen 30 M. away, brings us to the open roads of La Calle (hotel), where landing is impossible in rough weather.

Beyond the rock of Kef Mechtob (591 ft.), and a little short of Cape Roux, which is crowned with a ruined tower, and like Cape 132Rosa was once famed for its coral-reefs, runs the frontier of Tunisia. The wooded hills rising abruptly from the sea belong to the region of the Kroumirie (p. 326), so often mentioned in the recent history of the country.

Tabarca (p. 327), the next port, lies picturesquely in a bay behind the island of Tabarca with its ruined Genoese castle.

Again steering to the N.E. we pass a range of high sand-hills and the mouth of the Oued Zouara, where we have a glimpse of the Nefza Mts. (p. 328).

Off Cape Negro appears in clear weather the coral-girt Ile de la Galite (1290 ft.), the Calatha of antiquity, about 24 M. to the N.W. of Cape Serrat (lighthouse), where the ramifications of the Mogod Mts. approach the coast.

Beyond the cliffs of the two Fratelli and the Râs al-Dukara we round the Bizerta Hills, the northmost part of the African coast, with the four headlands Râs el-Koran, Râs Engelah, Cape Blanc, and Cape de Bizerte (p. 129). As we near the bay of Bizerta (p. 352), fringed with low olive-clad hills, we descry, far to the S.W., the Jebel Ichkeul (p. 352).

Steaming farther to the E., we observe the Cani (p. 129) on the left, and pass Râs Zebib, where the green island of Pilau (377 ft.) becomes visible in the foreground. To the right, on the N. slope of Jebel Nadour (p. 354), covered far up with sea-sand, lies the highly picturesque Arab village of Metlineh.

For the voyage from Cape Farina to Tunis, see p. 129.

23. From Marseilles to Naples.

512 (viâ Genoa 615) M. Steamboat Lines. 1. Orient Royal Mail fortnightly, on the way from London to Port Said.—2. North German Lloyd, for Naples and Alexandria, Wed. afternoon, in 33 hrs. (100 or 70 marks); for Genoa, Naples, Catania, Piræus, Smyrna, Constantinople (Odessa, Batum) every other Frid. afternoon, in 3 days (80 or 56 marks).—3. German East African, to Naples (and Port Said) every third Sat. in 2 days, returning from Naples every third Wed. (80 or 60 marks).—4. Messageries Maritimes, to Naples (Piræus, Smyrna, Constantinople, Beirut, RR. 77, 80, 75) every second Thurs. (100 or 70 fr.).—5. Chargeurs Réunis (Tour du Monde), twice quarterly vîa Genoa to Naples (Colombo, E. Asia, San Francisco, etc.).—6. Hungarian Adria Co., cargo-boats, Sun. forenoon, vîa Genoa to Naples in 4 days (Palermo, Malta); also Wed. afternoon to Nice, Genoa, and Naples in 4½ days (Palermo, Messina); fare, without food, 42 fr.—The steamers of the P. & O. and Rotterdam Lloyd companies go from Marseilles to Port Said direct.

Marseilles, and departure from its harbour, see p. 119.

The steamers run to the E.S.E., between Cap Croisette and the Ile du Planier (p. 119), past the Ile Maire, Ile Jarros, and Ile Rio to the Straits of Bonifacio. Fine view of the richly varied coast of Provence, as far as the peninsula of Cape Sicié, with the bays of Cassis and La Ciotat, the latter of which is overlooked by the 133rock called the Bec de l’Aigle. In the background, beyond the bare limestone rocks on the coast, appears the Chaîne de la Ste. Baume (3786 ft.), famed for its ancient forest, the property of the state. Beyond Cape Sicié and the Bay of Toulon, we pass the steep rocky S. coast of Porquerolles (lighthouse), the largest and westmost of the Iles d’Hyères, the ancient Stoechades Insulae.

After a sail of several hours more Corsica (p. 143), with its high mountains, is sighted towards the E. In the distance lies the Bay of Ajaccio, where at night the lights on the Iles Sanguinaires may be descried. We next pass the Gulf of Valinco, and at Cape Aquila or Senetosa (lighthouse) we approach the S.W. coast of Corsica, fringed with numerous bays and creeks. Off the rocks called Les Moines (Monaci) we sight, to the left, the Montagne de Cagna (4518 ft.), which is usually covered with snow in winter.

The passage of the *Straits of Bonifacio, between Corsica and Sardinia, is very beautiful when the light is favourable. At the narrowest part, between Cape Pertusato and Punta del Falcone, they are 7 M. wide. Between the lighthouses of Capo di Feno and Capo Pertusato, amid fissured limestone rocks honeycombed with caverns, rises a headland crowned with the grey old Genoese citadel and the white houses of Bonifacio. Opposite to it, on the N. coast of Sardinia, is the peninsula of Capo Testa, and near the Punta del Falcone lies the narrow Bay of Longo Sardo, with the little port of Santa Teresa di Gallura. Beyond the town rise the hills of the Gallura in terraces, stretching far away to the Monti di Limbara (4469 ft.). On the S.E. the horizon is bounded by a girdle of granitic islands and rocks, the Insulae Cuniculariae (‘rabbit-islands’) of Pliny, which imperil navigation, especially as they are washed with a strong current from the Tyrrhenian Sea.

The steamers pass through the Bocca Grande, between the lighthouses on the French island of Lavezzi and the Italian Isola dei Razzoli. To the right, beyond the islets of Santa Maria and Isola dei Budelli, appears the island of Maddalena, on which rise a signalling station and the fort of Guardia Vecchia (545 ft.). This island, the largest of the group, is connected with its neighbours Santo Stefano and Caprera (696 ft.; once the residence of Garibaldi; d. 1882) by roads built on embankments, and has been converted into one of the strongest fortresses on the Mediterranean in emulation of Porto Vecchio in Corsica and of Bizerta. Beyond Caprera, and adjoining the deeply indented Bay of Arsachena, appears the reddish Capo di Ferro, the N.W. point of Sardinia.

We now steer across the Tyrrhenian Sea to the E.S.E. towards the Ponza Islands (p. xxxi). We first pass the volcanic N.W. group, Palmarola (the ancient Palmaria), Ponza (929 ft.; Pontiae, once a Roman colony), with the lighthouse of Punta della Guardia, and Zannone (Sinonia). Beyond La Botte, a rock dreaded by sailors, 134begins the S.E. group, first Ventotene, the well-known Pandateria of the Romans, to which Julia, Agrippina, and Octavia were banished, and then the islet of Santo Stefano (lighthouse).

In the distance appear the Monte Epomeo and the lighthouse on the Punta Imperatore in the island of Ischia (p. 118). Approach to the Bay of Naples, see p. 135.

From Naples to Alexandria and Port Said, see R. 67; to Athens (Smyrna, and Constantinople), see R. 77.

24. From Genoa to Naples.

387 M. Steamboat Lines (agents at Genoa, see p. 114; at Naples, p. 137). 1. Cunard (New York and Trieste Line), once monthly to Naples.—2. White Star (for New York or Boston), once monthly to Naples (3l. 5s.).—3. North German Lloyd (for New York), two or three times a month, in 21 hrs.; also (for Port Said) every second Thurs. to Naples, in about 24 hrs.; also Mediterranean-Levant Service (for Catania, Piræus, Smyrna, Constantinople; RR. 23, 27, 77, 80), every second Sat., in about 26 hrs. (70.40 or 48.20 marks).—4. Hamburg-American (for New York), once or twice monthly to Naples (80 fr.).—5. Società Nazionale: Line XX every Wed. night to Naples (and Messina, etc.; circular trip, comp. p. 142) in 33 hrs. (52 or 34 fr.); Lines V, X, & XI every Mon. and Tues. to Leghorn and Naples in 42–48 hrs. (63 or 42 fr.); Line I monthly to Naples (for Port Said and Bombay).—6. La Veloce, to Naples (for Teneriffe and S. America), comp. p. 114.—7. Lloyd Sabaudo, 1–3 times monthly to Naples (Palermo and New York).—8. Italian Lloyd, 1–3 times monthly to Naples and New York.—9. Hungarian Adria Co. (comp. R. 23), Tues. and Sat., to Naples in 36 hrs.; fare, without food, 24 fr.

Genoa, see p. 113. In departing we survey in clear weather the whole of the *Gulf of Genoa. On the left lies the Riviera di Levante, as far as the Monte di Portofino (2000 ft.; p. 117); on the right are the Ligurian Alps, snow-capped in winter, and the Riviera di Ponente as far as Cape Mele (p. 113).

The vessel steers for the island of Gorgona (see below), passing Monte di Portofino at a distance of 6 or 7 M., and then gradually leaves the coast; the last place visible is Chiavari on the beautiful Bay of Rapallo. Beyond the headland of Punta del Mesco, where the slopes of the Cinque Terre, a famous wine-country, descend abruptly to the sea, appear the rocky islet of Tino (302 ft.; lighthouse) and the fortified island of Palmária (614 ft.), at the S. point of the Gulf of Spezia. The distant pinnacles of the Apuan Alps are seen in clear weather. Of Leghorn (p. 143), where some of the Italian steamers call, the lights only are visible at night.

The islands of Gorgona and Capraia (p. 143) lie on the right; behind the latter sometimes peep the mountains of Corsica (p. 143). From the Ligurian we now pass into the Tyrrhenian Sea, either through the Strait of Piombino, between the port of Piombino and the rocky islet of Palmaiola, or through the Palmaiola Strait, between that islet (lighthouse) and Elba (p. 143). By Follónica, near Piombino, some furnaces, where iron from Elba is smelted, gleam through the night. Beyond the Bay of Portoferraio and Capo della Vita, the N.E. point of Elba, are seen near Rio Marina the reddish-black hills where the iron-ore comes to the surface. Farther to the S. is seen the depression of the bay of Porto Longone.

135The Promontory of Castiglione, in the midst of the marshy Maremma Toscana, and the small group of the islands of Formíche di Grosseto remain some way to the left. The steamer then passes through a strait between the steep headland of Monte Argentario (2083 ft.) and the island of Giglio (1634 ft.), each with its lighthouse. On the right lies the islet of Giannutri (305 ft.).

Steering towards the seaport of Civitavecchia and Cape Linaro, we see the distant Maremma di Roma, backed by the volcanic Tolfa Mts. (2011 ft.). Above the Roman Campagna rise the Sabine and Alban Mts., followed by the Volscian Mts. (Monti Lepini) and the Monte Circeo (1775 ft.) in the Pontine Marshes. Farther on, we obtain a glimpse of Terracina, the distant hills on the Gulf of Gaëta, and, to the S.W., the Ponza Islands (p. 133).

In the foreground we next sight Vesuvius and the island of Ischia with Monte Epomeo (2589 ft.), by which Capri is at first concealed. The steamers usually pass between Ischia and Procida, but sometimes through the Strait of Procida, between that island and Cape Miseno. The *Bay of Naples, which we now survey in its full expanse, from the Bay of Pozzuoli and the hill of Posilipo to the Peninsula of Sorrento (p. 154), is strikingly picturesque.

Naples.—Arrival by Sea. The Mediterranean and New York steamers of the North German Lloyd and those of the Società Nazionale are berthed at the Immacolatella Nuova (Pl. G, H, 5). Passengers by other steamers are landed at that quay by boat, those from the Lloyd and Orient Royal Lines free of charge by steam-tender or boat respectively, from others by rowing-boat (1 fr., with luggage, but bargain advisable). Travellers should be on their guard against boatmen wearing the jerseys of well-known steamboat-lines though not employed by these companies. Porter (facchino) for small valise 40, trunk 80 c.

The Railway Station (Stazione Centrale, Pl. H, 3) lies at the E. end of the city, 12 min. from the Immacolatella Nuova (see above), and ½¾ M. from most of the hotels. Here arrive all the express trains from the north, such as those from Verona (18½–20¼ hrs.), from Milan (17 hrs.), from Turin (17½–22½ hrs.), and from Venice (20 hrs.). As the delivery of luggage is a slow process, the traveller who is willing to pay somewhat more may drive straight to his hotel without it, and have it sent later. Porter (facchino) for each small package 15, for each trunk 25 c.

Hotels (often full in spring). Of the very first class: *Bertolini’s Palace Hotel (Pl. p; C, 6), in the Parco Grifeo (with lift from the Corso Vittorio Emanuele; 245 ft.), R. from 6 (Jan.–May 10) fr., B. 2, déj. 5, D. 8 fr.; *Excelsior (Pl. o; F, 7), Via Partenope 24, R. from 6, B. 2, déj. 5, D. 7 fr., new; *Grand-Hôtel (Pl. d; B, 7), Piazza Principe di Napoli, near the sea, at the W. end of the Villa Nazionale (p. 141), R. from 6, B. 1¾, déj. 4½, D. 7 fr.—In the higher quarters, with beautiful views: Corso Vittorio Emanuele 168, *Bristol (Pl. a; D, 6), R. from 4, B. 1½, déj. 4, D. 6 fr.; No. 135, *Parker’s (Pl. b; C, 6), R. 5–10, B. 1½, déj. 3½, D. 5½ fr.; adjacent, No. 133, *Macpherson’s Hôt. Britannique (Pl. q; C, 6), R. 4–6 (Jan.-April, 5–8) fr., B. 1½, déj. 3½, D. 5 fr.; *Grand Eden (Pl. u; C, 6), Parco Margherita 1, R. from 5, B. 1½, déj. 4, D. 5½ fr.; Bellevue (Pl. t; C, 6), Corso Vittorio Emanuele 142, R. 3½–4½, B. 1½, déj. 3, D. 4 fr.

136In the lower quarters.—Via Partenope, facing the sea: No. 23, *Gr.-Hôt. Santa Lucia (Pl. m; F, 7), R. from 5, B. 1½, déj. 4, D. 6 fr.; No. 22, *Gr.-Hôt. du Vésuve (Pl. g; E, 7), R. from 6, B. 1½, déj. 4, D. 6 fr.; *Gr.-Hôt. Victoria (Pl. v; E, 7), R. from 5, B. 1½, déj. 4, D. 6 fr.; No. 14, *Royal des Etrangers (Pl. i; E, 7), R. from 6, B. 1½, déj. 4, D. 6 fr. Piazza del Municipio (convenient for passing travellers): *Gr.-Hôt. de Londres (Pl. l; F, 6), R. from 5, B. 1½, déj. 3½, D. 5 fr. Overlooking the sea, Via Partenope and Strada Chiatamone 55, Hassler (Pl. k; E, 7), R. 5–10, B. 1½, déj. 3½, D. 5 fr., good; Via Caracciolo 15, Savoy (Pl. r; B, 7), R. from 4, B. 1½, déj. 4, D. 5 fr. Riviera di Chiaia (Pl. D, C, B, 7), with view of the Villa Nazionale and the sea: No. 276, *Gr. Bretagne & Angleterre (Pl. e; D, 7), R. from 4, B. 1½, déj. 3½, D. 5 fr.—By the sea, Via Partenope 20, *Continental (Pl. c; E, 7), R. 3½–7, B. 1½, déj. 3, D. 4½ fr. Strada Medina 76 (convenient for passing travellers), Isotta & Genève (Pl. s; F, 5), R. 4½–6, B. 1½, déj. 3, D. 4½ fr. By the sea, entrance Strada Chiatamone 59, Métropole & Ville (Pl. h; E, 7), R. from 4, B. 1¼, déj. 3½, D. 3–4½ fr., good. Riviera di Chiaia 127, with view of the Villa Nazionale and the sea, Riviera (Pl. f; C, 7), R. 3–4, B. 1½, déj. 3½, D. 5 fr., good. Strada Santa Lucia 37, Eldorado Modérn (Pl. x; E, 7), R. from 3, B. 1½, déj. 3, D. 4 fr.

Unpretending: La Patria (Pl. w; F, 5) Via Guglielmo Sanfelice 47, R. 3½–5 fr., good; Hôt. de Naples, Corso Umberto Primo 55, R. 4–5 fr.; Hôt. Milan & Schweizerhof, Piazza del Municipio 84, R. 3–4 fr., Russie (Pl. n; F, 7), Strada Santa Lucia 82, R. 2½–3½ fr., both plain.

Restaurants (Ristoranti, Trattorie; Italian style, à la carte). Giardini Internazionali, Via Roma, entrance Vico Tre Re 60, good cuisine; Giardini di Torino, Via Roma 292; Ristorante Milanese, Galleria Umberto Primo, N. Italian cookery; Scotto Jonno, Galleria Principe di Napoli (Pl. F, 3), déj. 2 fr., Nic. Esposito, Salita del Museo 62 (these two suitable for visitors to the Museum); Renzo e Lucia, Mira Napoli, both at the terminus of tramway-line Nr. 7 (for visitors to San Martino); Ristorante Bella Vista (p. 142), on the hill of Posilipo.—Beer. *Pilsener Urquell, Strada Santa Brigida 36; Bavaria, Galleria Umberto Primo, opposite the Teatro San Carlo, good.

Cafés. Gambrinus, Piazza San Ferdinando, also restaurant, Calzona, Galleria Umberto Primo, at both evening concerts; Nazionale, Villa Nazionale (p. 141), near the Aquarium.—Tea Rooms. Galleria Vittoria (Pl. E, 7). open 3–8 p.m. only, fashionable; Via Domenico Morelli 8 (Pl. E, 7); Strada di Chiaia 143 (Caflish, confectioner).—Bars, numerous in Via Roma.