[1]

HANDBOOK
ON
DRESS AND CLOAK CUTTING,

BY
CHAS. HECKLINGER.

1884.

NEW YORK:
PETER DE BAUN, PRINTER, 101 AND 103 FULTON STREET.

[2]

The following pages contain the author’s Improved System of Dress and Cloak Cutting, fully explained, with the intention of helping those students who, desirous to follow this branch of industry, are met on the very threshold by a difficulty—the choice of a suitable System.

The System given has been found to give the greatest security in its results, with the least trouble, it being easy to learn, readily used, and gives the greatest satisfaction to the large number of those using it. Everything in illustrating and explaining has been omitted which might tend to complicate or retard the student in acquiring it. Every point needed to make it clear has been carefully put down—in its illustrations, in the simple description, and in grouping the separate articles in their correct places—making it at once easy to comprehend and perfect as a whole.

[4]

Most Systems of proportion, thus far issued, are projected on the breast-measure. It will be evident, on investigating the proportions of the human figure, that a System based only on one size of the body, and that its width, can never lead to the best results.

When the height and width are equal it is immaterial which we use. But this is only the case on normal sizes, from 34 to 38 breast, as all deviations from these sizes are different in their proportions of heights to the widths.

The problem to be solved in using a proportionate system is to arrange the lengths so that they agree with a certain breast size and use it for the heights.

In practice we find that the average forms, measuring from 34 to 38 breast, require and can be cut by the full breast-measure, as the lengths agree, in the majority of cases, with this size; but in larger and smaller sizes this breast-measure will either be too small or too large, therefore, in drafting any other sizes than those indicated, we must use the quantities as given in the following Table, as set opposite the full breast-measure, in order that the pattern in its length may be of correct size, and neither too small or too large.

Table of Sizes.

[6]

In considering the human body it must be allowed that sufficient and marked characteristics exist between a young girl and the full-grown woman—the slender, and the large, fleshy form. All these tend to establish that the first elements of a good System for constructing garments is a good proportionate standard.

In strict accordance with this we have given diagrams, illustrating the system by which the art of cutting is thoroughly attained; we also give the system as it should be used in drafting by measure.

Table of Sizes for Children.

[7]

THE MEASURES.

The measures required are few, and only such as give correct results (See Fig. 1).

Have a tape which fastens around the waist in such a manner that it will be level.

Measure from socket bone at top of back, point O, to waist I below the tape to B, for the highest part of hip, and to the full length of garment wanted.

Take next the width of back from E to D, being careful to see whether the dress worn[8] has this width in the correct place. Should it be either too narrow or too wide modify your measure as seems right.

Take the measure around the arm-hole; then move the arm forward to allow you to put the tape directly under the arm to seam of sleeve at F, and measure down to bottom of tape at J.

Next, put the tape under the arm, close up, and measure the length of the sleeve down to the wrist.

Turn to Fig. 2, and measure, as shown, from back of neck, point O, past the front of arm, to bottom of tape at J. This measure must be taken easy, and should run straight down in front of arm.

Measure next from front of arm to centre of back. To take this measure, a little square, having a tape attached, is very handy to use.

Take the breast-measure over the fullest part of the bosom and shoulder blades, then the waist-measure, always taken close, and the hip-measure.

These are all the measures required for a dress-waist, a jacket, or a long garment. For a skirt we take the length on the side, from the hip down to the floor. For a circular take the width around the shoulders.

FIG. 3 AND 4. THE WAIST PATTERN.

Commence by drawing line O on the edge of a sheet of paper from point O to F, and one line C at right angles with it from O to N.

From O go down three-fourths of an inch for the actual top of back.

From O to C is one-quarter of the breast-measure, which for a 36 bust would be 9 inches, and from C over to 16 draw line D (see Fig. 4) at right angles with the back line.

Next, measure from ¾, or the top of back down to F, the length of back, from socket bone to the natural waist and from F draw a line over to the front at T.

From F go in 1½ inch, and draw a line for the centre of the back, from ¾ at top to 1½ at the bottom.

From O over on the top line, place 2 inches to the point marked ⅛. This will be about right for all medium sizes. For large sizes, over 40 breast, make it 2¼ inches to 2½ inches and for sizes under 30 breast-measure let it be 1½ to 1¾ inches. It will make no difference in the fit what this width may be, as it only affects the appearance of the shoulder-seam. A little practice, however, will enable any one to apply the right width.

In the middle, between O and E (see Fig. 4), fix point B, and in the centre, between B and E, locate point C, and draw lines B and G from both points.

Starting at E, measure over to S one-third of the breast, which is 6 inches for a 36; and add to it one inch, which fixes S; and from S to H place one-fourth, or 4½ inches. All fractions and divisions that we use in explanation are based on the breast-measure, and are found already divided on the square.

At S and H draw lines up, as shown. Where lines S-J and B-J cross, begin by drawing another to the top, at A.

[9]

Now, curve from ¾ to A, and from A to G, which last point is one-half inch above J. Commencing at G curve past J to R, going a trifle inside of straight line, then from R past X to V.

From R draw a straight line to 1½, and curve the back seam from R by going only a little inside of straight line at 19, thence to 2. Point 2 is 1½ inches from centre 1½. From 2 to 1 place 1 inch, then curve the side-body from 19 to 1.

Next, measure from the centre of the back at Z, on the line under the arm, to get the point D in front. This should be one-half of the breast-measure (18). Point D being placed, draw a line from there up and down to N and to U, at right angles with the line under the arm.

To form the neck we take one-sixth of the breast and place it from N to P, and, using N as a pivot, sweep from P to 15. One-quarter inch inside of front line at 15 we start to draw the curved front line to the bottom, by going outside of D one-half inch and coming back to straight line again, near U.

One and a half inches below the waist-line, at U, draw a line from T over to 12.

From P to B draw a straight line; then take the length of the back shoulder, from A to G, and place the same from P towards 17, and where this reaches is point 17.

Having located 17, curve from it above the line of shoulder at 21, and drop one-fourth inch below it at 20; and, also, from 20 draw the arm-hole past 18 to X; but do not quite touch A, and drop below V one-fourth inch.

[10]

Point V is midway between S and H; from it draw a straight line to 4; curve a little on both sides of it; that is, starting from V, keep following the line for two inches, then gradually separate towards the waist-line, so that you will have two curves, which will be apart one-fourth inch near waist, but coming together again at 4.

About one-half inch more forward than the middle, between 19 and V, fix point X; and in the centre, between 1 and 4, locate 3; then draw a line from X to 3 and curve it.

In the middle, between H and D, mark point 12, and in the middle, between 12 and H, point 13.

Measure the distance from front, at U, to 1, and from 2 to 1½; on this draft it will be 16 inches. Now deduct from this the size of waist, 12 inches, and the remainder, 4 inches, must be taken out in darts. We put them in as follows: From U to 5 place a distance of 2 inches for all average medium sizes; from 5 to 6 is one dart of 2 inches, and between the darts, from 6 to 7, is three-fourths inch, then from 7 to 8 is another dart of 2 inches.

Take two-thirds of the distance under the arm and place it upwards from 7 towards 13 for the height of the back dart, and let the front one start one-half inch lower; then draw them, as shown, from 22 and 23 to 9, 10, 11 and 12.

Now, at one-fourth inch below 1, curve the lower line past 3, and a trifle above it, to 12, drop point 12 a little below the line; also drop 10 a little below it; from 9 to T remain on the line straight across.

The draft is now finished by proportion, and we can assure our readers that, with the use of the sizes on our Proportionate Table, it is applicable to all forms, the manner of drafting remaining the same in all cases.

All our figures, unless otherwise stated, are drafted without seams. We do this because it is far easier to add the amount necessary on different material than to draft it on the pattern.

THE WAIST, BY MEASURE.

The measures we shall use are the following: Breast, 36; waist, 24; length of natural waist, 15; height under arm, 7; front of arm, 10½; width of back, 6½; front length, 18½.

In drafting this we drop proportion altogether and use only the measures as stated above to get all points on the draft. All the lines and curves will come out in similar manner to the previous draft. Fig. 4 starts by drawing a line O-F and O-N; go down from O three-fourths of an inch, and in from O, to A, two inches, and curve from ¾ to A.

From ¾ down, measure the length of back 15 inches to F, and at F draw a line over to the front and go in 1½ inches and mark a point.

From ¾ to this last point draw a straight line for the centre of the back.

Up from F measure the height under arm 7 inches to E, and from E draw a line to the front.

From Z to D is one-half of the breast-measure, and draw the front line up and down. Also measure from Z to S, the actual width of the back, and from Z to H, the front of the arm, 10½ inches, or the blade measure which is taken from the front of the arm over the blade to the centre of the back. At S and H draw lines up.

[11]

In the middle between O and E mark point B, and in the middle between B and E point C, and draw the lines across as shown. (See Fig. 4.)

From where the lines cross at J, draw one across to top of back at A, and curve from A to G which point is one-half inch above J.

Beginning at G curve arm-hole past J, a trifle inside of line between J and R, and from thence to V. This last is midway between S and H.

Make the bottom of the back 1½ inches wide. This is only a medium, as it can be made 1 inch or 2 inches, which only places the seam either further back or more to the front. Then from R draw a straight line to 1½ and slightly curve a line drawn to 19 and to 2. Between 19 and 2 curve more towards centre of back. A few trials will enable you to make a nice shaped curve.

From 2 on back to side body at 1 is 1 inch, and curve from 19 to 1.

From V, straight down, draw a line to 4 and curve a trifle on either side of it, also separate side-body from X to 3. Point X is midway between line R and V and the distance between 3 and 4 is about ½ inch more than X to V.

[12]

Take ⅙ of the breast, equal to 3 inches, and place it from point N to P and use point N as a pivot and sweep from P to 15.

At a point on waist-line directly under H, measure up past P, shoulder point, the front length, which is in our measure 18½, deducting the width of top of back, and wherever it reaches to is point P. This may, sometimes, when the person is erect, reach above the line; and again, on hollow or stooping shoulders, be below it. Wherever it reaches is the shoulder point, and when it goes above we sweep at a point above N even with shoulder for neck, and of course, should it be below the line, at a point below N, so that the neck will keep its shape to harmonize with the height of shoulder point.

Wherever point P is located by measure, above or below, or on the line, start to draw the line to B, on back, for height of shoulder, and place the width of back shoulder from A to G on this line from P to get point 17. Then from 17 curve above it about one-quarter inch to P, and also draw the arm-hole, going inside of line H, but never over one-half inch, to V, as shown on the diagram. Drop a trifle from 17 to 20.

At the front, draw the line starting inside of straight line of 15 one-quarter of an inch, gradually curving out till at D we have one-half inch curve, and thence going in again to the line at waist, point U. From U go down 1¼ inch to T, and draw a line across to 12.

Measure the distance F to U, leaving out the opening between 1 and 2, which in this case will be 16 inches. Now, one-half of waist-measure, 12 inches, from 16 leaves 4 inches, which must be taken out in darts.

To produce the darts in the right place we proceed as follows: first locate a point in the middle between H and D which gives 12, and in the centre between H and 12, another which is marked 13.

From U to 5 place 2 inches, as we never wish to have the first dart any nearer to the front, then from 5 to 6 is one dart of 2 inches or one-half of the amount to be taken out. Between the darts leave three-fourths inch, and then place another dart of 2 inches from 7 to 8. In the centre of each dart mark a point and draw lines from these to 12 and 13.

One-third of the height under arm from 13 locates 23 while 22 is one-half inch lower, and starting from each of the last points curve the darts as shown.

It will be seen that they are drawn very pointed at top, and that below the waist-line they run straight down without any spring being given.

From 1 curve to 3 and 4; but between 3 and 4 it runs a trifle above waist-line, and then from 4 to 12 on lower line. Point 10 is a little lower than the line, while it rests on line, from 9 to T.

This finishes the draft by measure, and we have only to add that this, as well as the preceding, requires the adding of seams according to material used.

[13]

FIG. 5. LARGE SIZE WAIST.

In using this by measure, draft in the same way as explained in another article, the difference being only that the measure will be larger. We will explain this by the Proportionate Method: Breast, 44 inches; waist, 31½; drafting size, 21⅝, or equal to a breast-measure of 43¼ inches.

It should be understood that this last size of breast is used only for the height, while the original breast-measure must always be used for the width.

First draw line O-C, mark point O, and draw a line at right angles with O-C, to A; from O go down three-fourths inch to point 7, the top of back. From 7 to C is the length of the waist, 15½ or 16 inches.

At the waist go in 1½ inch from C; draw a straight line from 7 to 1½ for the centre of the back.

From O go down to point B, one-quarter of the drafting size, which is, in this case, 10⅝ inches; this is one-quarter of 43⅛, as on large sizes the length is reduced in the shoulders to the drafting size. Now draw a line from B to H, and one from C to J.

Point D is in the centre between O and B; then from D draw a line over to K.

From B to G is one-third and 1 inch, equal to 8⅛ inches, and from G draw a line up.

From G to E is one-fourth, equal to 5¼ inches; here also draw a line up.

From N, on the back line, to H, place one-half of the full breast-measure, which is[14] 22 inches; and at this point draw a line up and down, thus making the front line A-J.

From O to 6 is one-eighth of breast, 2⅝ inches. From 7 curve to 6, for the top of back, at neck; from K to 6 draw a line, and at 6 begin to curve the line for shoulder, raising it one-half inch above K to 8. Also commence to curve the arm-hole from 8, going inside of line one-eighth inch at 16, and thence past 15 and 4 to E.

Midway between K and G is point 16. Start to make the seam for the back from 16, past 17 to 1; the last point is 1½ inch from 1½. When it is desired to produce a narrow shoulder, raise the seam above 8 one-half inch, and back from 8 fully 1 inch, and draw the arm-hole from 18 to 16.

To draw the first side-body, place 1 inch from 1 to 2, and curve the line from 16 to 17; thence separate and curve nicely to 2.

In the centre, between G and E, mark point 4, and draw a line straight down, which will be 5; and, in the middle, between 17 and 4, fix point 15. Also take the distance from 2 to 5, and fix a point in the centre, which will be 3, and then draw a line from 15 to 3; curve a little on each side of these two lines, as shown.

In producing the front, be very careful to follow the instructions as here given: From A to F is one-sixth of the breast-measure, 3½ inches; and the same amount from A to I; now, sweep from F to I, using A as pivot; from F to D draw a straight line, and place the same distance, as on the back shoulder from 6 to 8, on to F to 9, and then curve it a little above the line at 20; finish the arm-hole by curving it from 19 downwards past E. It will be seen that it runs over and in front of line E, and one-fourth inch below breast-line at 4.

For the front edge, commence one-fourth inch inside of straight line at I, and go gradually out to one-half inch at H, and in again until it touches line at J and 14.

Now to manage to fix the darts: Measure from 1½ to 1-2, to 3, and 3 to J; this will give 19½ inches. But as the measure is only 15¾, one-half of 31½, we take out the difference between these two widths in darts. This amounts to 2¾ inches, which we take out in two darts of 1⅞ inch each.

First find the centre between H and E, which fixes point R; and the centre, also, between R and E, which gives point P. This first dart commences 2¼ inches from J. Then put in one dart of 1⅞; inch. Between the darts, let the space be 1 inch, and then place the width of the other dart, which is also 1⅞ inch, and fix a centre in each dart.

From R draw a line through the centre of the first dart, and from P one through the centre of the second; then curve the lines of both darts like those on the diagram. The darts are started two-thirds of the distance up under the arm, but the front one is made one-half inch shorter.

From J go down 1½ inch and draw a line across to 10.

The bottom of the waist is straight from 14 to 13. At 12 begin one-fourth inch below and draw to the line at 11. From 10, also one-fourth inch below, draw a curved line to 5, raising to 3, and back to 2.

When the back has been narrowed on the shoulders it becomes necessary, also, to conform the front to it; as we have raised above 8 to 18 one-half inch, therefore, we[15] must reduce the shoulder on the front the same amount we added, and it will bring it to 19. Then the waist is finished. Let it again be stated that seams must be added, except in the neck and arm-hole.

FIG. 6. LOW NECK DRESS WAIST.

It will be seen that the general arrangement of this draft is the same as all produced by this System.

The pointed basque-like shape at bottom is made to whatever length desired, only, it will be noticed, they are made short on the side just over the hips.

In making these waists low in the neck, the first point to be considered is that they reach down lower on the shoulders, and, therefore, we have to draft them so as to meet this requirement.

From S, the original shaped draft, we go out to 10, on line D-10, 1 to 1½ inch, according to the lowness of opening; the same is added from Q to R, and the arm-hole drafted from these two last points.

Now, decide how low it should be open, and draw the curved lines from T to Q, and[16] from B to 9. The strap on shoulder can be made 1 or 2 inches wide. If a short sleeve is wanted flatten the sleeve-head about the same amount as was added to the shoulder over S to 10.

FIG. 7. BASQUE PATTERN.

This figure represents a short pointed basque as it can be produced by this System—whether by proportion or by measure. We have already fully explained the manner of producing all the upper portions of the draft in previous articles, and it is not necessary to go over it here again, it being the same as any other waist.

From the waist down we place whatever length is wanted in the back to get point J[17] or line B. From 1 and 1½ lines are drawn down, and whatever is put on from S to back line must be also added from line at 30 to 28.

On a short basque the back line does not touch point J, it having less spring, and therefore the width of back, at S, is only a little more than at the waist, or about one-half inch on each side of the straight lines.

From J to 28 curve up, to taste. If wanted with a high curve at side, over the hips, it may reach above 28; and when desired straight around the bottom draw it along bottom line, or similar to a jacket, as shown on other Figures.

The side-body at bottom must start at S, level with 28, rising up towards R.

Q is even with R, and from it to O draw the line a little lower.

Point P is also level with O; thence, forward, it is drawn so that the front point is either level with the back or longer pointed, as shown on the Figure, where it is two inches lower.

The darts are placed the same as on a waist. But below the waist line F they curve, as shown. The best way to produce a good result is to draw straight lines down from 11, 12, 13 and 14, drawing them inside or outside of these lines, as shown. It will thus be seen that 23 comes nearly in the centre of the second dart, because more curve is here needed for the hips, while the space between the darts is drawn so that the distance between 24 and 25 is only a little more than at 12 to 13. In this way, when the darts are sewn up they will take the shape, or the seams will shape themselves like the centre-piece between the darts.

When dividing the side-body, from 18 to 19, directly under the arm draw a straight line down and let the spring on each side of this line be equal, as P and O. Also take out about one-fourth inch above the waist-line along the side-body seams, to curve them more to the shape.

From 15 to 20 a straight line is also drawn, and an equal amount is put each side of this line, over the hips, to R and O.

It will be noticed that point 18 is in the middle, between line E and the line K, or point S on Fig. 4; and point 15 is midway between 18 and line K; the width of the side-body, at the waist, is made wider; the line from 18 is always drawn straight down, then divide the distance from point 19 and 2, the centre of which is 20; and from 15 through 20 draw the other line.

[18]

FIG. 8. POLONAISE.

This is drafted in the same manner as the one given in Fig. 7. As, however, this is a long garment the amount of drapery must be increased; therefore below the hip line D we spring out till at bottom, point F, it amounts to one inch. At 4 there is one inch over line; at 6, on side-body, one inch; there draw a straight line from 4 down, through this inch, and curve the one-half inch over it. On the side, from 5 to 7, is 1½ inches, the same at bottom.

[19]

Where 3 and X, of fore-part, are located lay the side-body on top of it, 1 resting on 3, and point 3, of side-body, resting on X, then finish the line from X to 14, by the way the side-body lays, and fix the length also by the side-body. Put in two darts, letting them run only 4 inches below the hip line.

FIGS. 9 AND 10. THE SLEEVE.

Commence by drawing lines O-E and O-F. Use the arm-hole size to produce the sleeve, and go down from O to B one-fourth of this; A is in the middle between O and B. Draw lines across.

From O to F is one-half of arm-hole, and from there draw a line down to K.

From B to F draw a straight line and halve it, which will be point H; and from this last also draw a short line at right angles with the diagonal line from H to J.

Measure the length of line B-F and take one-third of it and place it from H to J.

Now, using J as pivot, sweep from line at top, point 4, around to the front and the back; from B curve line past 5 to this sweep. Where the sweep crosses line at G draw a line down to K.

Go down from B to C three-fourths of an inch, and from here measure the length of arm to E.

Mark a point midway between B and E, which gives D, and draw a line across.

In the middle, between the two parallel lines at back, mark a point f.

Now lay the square in such a position on the pattern that 5 inches will touch point E and the long arm will touch f, then draw along the bottom, from E to N, and to f.

[20]

Begin to curve from C, past L to f, and curve to N.

Go in from D 1½ inch and draw the front-seam of the sleeve.

From X, where the curve strikes line B, begin to draw the under-sleeve parallel with upper part 6 to 1.

Measure from B around the sleeve-head to C, and apply number of inches obtained to X, and measure past 1 towards 3, the measure of arm-hole, and 2 inches more. If the upper-sleeve measures 11 inches place 11 on to X and measure 16 inches, adding 2 inches more to line at 3 for a 16-sleeve. Wherever point 3 is located begin to draw back arm-seam to bottom by running straight down, curving out to 2, or as much inside of line 7 as f is outside of it.

FIG. 10.

Draw the line O-G and O-F. From O to C go down one-third, less one-half inch, and draw line over to K. In the middle, between C and O, draw also a line from B to H.

From O to G is one-half of arm-hole size, and draw a line from G downwards.

From C begin to curve the sleeve-top past I to H, touching the top line at I. From L to E apply the length of sleeve. Make F 1¼ inches lower down than E.

From E to N is an average of 5 inches. Draw a line from H past K to M and N, curving it inside of K about one-half inch and curve the line only a trifle below the elbow. Go in from D 1½ inch, and draw the inside seam from C to E.

This finishes the upper-sleeve. For the under-sleeve draw from C, curving under straight line to L, thence to J. Point J is 1 inch inside of H. From J draw down to within one-half inch of M and to N.

The front-seam is the same as the upper-sleeve from C to E and N.

In drawing any sleeve use the measure of the arm-hole, and bear in mind that this manner of drafting has the seams already included.

[21]

FIG. 11. SKIRTS.

Cutting and making a dress skirt, of any style and kind, is sometimes considered of very little importance. By many dressmakers the work is entrusted to inexperienced hands and blocked out by a pattern which will not fit the form. Many fine costumes lack style because the laws of cutting skirts for the different figures have not been observed.

The fashion for the present, and for some time past, requires the skirt to be fitted with as much care as any other part of the dress. All fullness must be so arranged as to fall into the back breadths of the train. The sloping of the bottom must be proportionate, so as to give a straight even effect across the front and sides and allow the train to suddenly spring out at the lower part of the back widths.

The careful sloping of the gores at the sides causes the train to fall into a fan-like sweep. The necessity of fine slopes, and a difference of those in different costumes, as well as for different figures, will be readily appreciated when we observe the use for which the dress is intended.

[22]

In a walking dress, as it should be to be in harmony with style and the present demands of fashion, the skirts should adhere closely all around the front and sides, leaving whatever fullness there may be at the back. In order to gain this, darts are required between the breadths, which reduce the size needed over the hips down to the size at waist. As the hips proportionately increase at a given ratio at the sides it must be evident that, in order that the skirt may fall down fairly over the hips, these darts at side must be larger there, while towards the front they must be smaller.

The bottom should have a regular sweep. This sweep can be gained the easiest by laying the gores in a closing position on the table, drawing a straight line along the centre of the front and extending upwards about the same length as the skirt. At the centre of the back breadth another line is drawn far enough up to cross the first line. In this shape the two lines would represent a cone; at the point attach a string to a pin driven into the table, and extending this string to the lower length of the skirt sweep around the bottom—this will produce a correct effect in every case.

The front width is now cut wide enough so that only one additional width is needed at each side. As we have already said, much depends upon goring the sides as regards fitting the hips, but on stout ladies extra care must be taken that the front be also sufficient to cover the round form of the body. The defect liable to occur in this point has the same result as not sloping enough at the side for large hips, namely, the skirt will hitch-up on the waist-band.

Putting on a skirt to the band is of equal importance. A dart in the apron or front width gives sufficient fullness over the round of the body in front; so also do darts at side. All the rest of the fullness should be pleated or gathered into the few inches left of the band after the front and sides have been sewed to the band.

We should not advise any one to cut out a skirt, whether short or with train, with out a good pattern, unless they understand how to draft one and know the points of the different shapes in gores.

Such skirt patterns we are prepared to forward to any address, on application, but in order that students may acquire an idea of how to cut them, Fig. 11 will show the general form and shape of them.

Draw line A, and make it 45 inches long, and mark off all the distances on the line, as shown by the number of inches given at all these points; draw lines across at right angles to line A.

Draw a line from point 6 to 12 and curve it to within one-half inch of 6, and then curve slightly one-half inch below line at centre to 6½ on line A. This finishes top of front breadth; connect 12 and 45, which finishes the bottom.

Finish the top of side-breadth by drawing lines from 7 to 11, curving these lines like Figure; at the bottom, curve from 12 to 42.

Connect points 32 and 42, also 22 and 12, by straight lines, which finishes the back part; this will give a skirt 38 inches long and the prevailing width.

Lay the front part, line A, on the fold of the goods.

In sewing to the band the front and side-breadths are left plain while the back is pleated in three or four large pleats.

[23]

FIGS. 12, 13, 14. SACK JACKET.

It will be seen that every shape and style of garment must be drafted in the same manner as the principle employed in the construction of the waist-body or basque.

We first commence to draw the back line B and O to F (Fig. 12).

From O down, on the first line, place three-fourths of an inch, and from O over to F, one-eighth of the breast-measure, or simply 2 inches, on average size.

Starting at ¾, measure down to C, the length of natural waist, and to D, the full parts of the hips; also to E the length wanted.

[24]

From C up to B place the height under the arm. Now at every one of these points draw lines across, all at right angles with the first line.

Go in from C to N 1½ inch, and then draw a line from ¾, at top, to N, and from the last point to E, and curve the back-line, as shown from ¾, past R.

From N to M make the width of back, at waist, 2 inches or more, as desired.

Starting at R, place the width of back to G and draw a line up to S.

In the middle, between O and B, fix point A, and from there draw a line over to J.

From the point where lines A-J and G-S cross draw a line to F.

Raise above J one-half inch to S and curve the shoulder from F to S; then from S go inside of line at J and curve the arm-hole of the back to I. This last point is midway between J and G.

From I draw a line to N, then commence at I and draw line for the side-seam to 8, going inside of straight line a trifle and thence with a decided curve to M.

Draw a right-angle line with the waist-line F down to 3 from N, and to 4 from 2.

Now whatever the distance E is drawn from 3 must be placed from 4 to 5, and the back may be finished by drawing the line from 2 to 5.

In case it is desired to make a narrow back, point E may be nearer to 3; in such case point 5 would also be nearer to 4.

Cut the back out, and in order to draw the side-body lay it on the paper in such a manner that there will be room enough to cut it out without piecing.

THE SIDE-BODY.—FIG. 13.

Lines D-F and O are extended over. From 2 to 10 is 1 inch in every case.

Draw from I, along the back, to 8, and from thence begin to separate from the back and curve to 10 and down to 6, which is the point on the back where line O and the line from 2 downwards cross. From 6 down give this line a nice curve, not springing out too much nor making it too flat—a medium is what is desired.

From B to K is one-fourth of the breast-measure.

Curve from I to H and K.

About 1 inch inside of K draw a line down to L, which should make the side-body as wide from 8 to H as 10 to L.

At right angles with waist-line draw one down from 10 to 3, and another from L to 4.

Now whatever the distance is from 3 to 5 should be placed from 4 to 6, and then the seam from L is drawn past 11 to 6.

Make the length at bottom one-half inch longer at 5 to 6; also notice that the distance from 7 to 11 may be a little more than that from 9 to 6, as more ease over the hip, at side, is desirable.

THE FRONT.—FIG. 14.

All the lines are extended over on the paper, and the side-body and back are laid in the position as when they were drafted, and as shown.

First measure from B to V, one-half the breast-measure, and draw line A up and down.

[25]

From B to R is the measure to the front of the arm, where a line is drawn up. From P back, place one-sixth of the breast to N, here draw a line up and down, as shown.

Measure up from star on side, marked Z, to line at N, the front length less the width of the top of back, and where this reaches on the line fix the height.

From this height draw a line to A, which gives the height of shoulder.

From P as pivot sweep from N to 21 for neck. Place the length of back shoulder from F to S on to N, on line N, and where it reaches will be point 22.

[26]

Drop one-half inch below line and curve from 22 to 23, which is one-fourth above the line, to N. Also curve arm-hole from 22 through R to H.

Draw the front line one-half inch inside at 21, curving outside one-half inch near V, coming back to line at U, and outside one-half inch at bottom to point 20.

From H, through L, draw line to 11.

Whatever the distance from 11 to 24 is place over from 11 to 13 and then curve from L, through 12, to 13. Sweep the bottom from 13 by a point 1 inch back of N and flatten this curve near 14.

Midway between R and V fix point 2, and midway between 2 and R point 1.

Measure the distance from the front at U to 10 and from 2 to C.

Deduct the half size of waist from this last and the remainder is taken out in darts.

From U to 12 is 2 inches.

From 12 to 9 is one-half of what is to be taken out in darts.

From 9 to 8 is always three-fourths of an inch.

From 8 to 7 is another dart.

Fix a point in the centre of the darts and draw a straight line from 1 and 2 to 6 and 5; and at right angles with waist-line draw lines from centre of dart down to the bottom. Now, one-third of the height under arm, down, fix point 3, and make 4 one-half inch more.

Draw the darts from 3 and 4 through the points, as shown, to 15 and 14.

FIG. 15. DOUBLE-BREASTED SACK JACKET.

Draft by measure—breast, 36; waist, 24; and hip, 40. Length to waist 14½, and full length, 26.

By using these measures we will endeavor to show how to draft a jacket, each piece separately, thus doing away with the over-lapping of patterns as it occurs when it is drafted altogether, as in our previous articles on proportionate cutting. It is the same principle, but more practical, as a pattern can thus be cut whole in the skirt.

Commence by drawing the back construction line from O to L and O to P.

From O down is three-fourths inch to T.

From O to E is one-fourth of breast—9 inches.

From T measure down to the waist 14½ inches, and the full length to L, 26 inches, and from O over on top line to 5 two inches, and curve the top, T, to 5.

B is midway between O and E.

K is 6 inches below the waist; now draw all the lines across.

At F go in 1½ inch to back, and draw a curved line from the centre seam of the back, from T to 1½, and spring out three-fourths inch at 9, thence to L.

From E to 7 is one-third and one inch, equal to 7 inches. Draw a line up from 7 to 3, and one from 5 to 3.

[27]

Raise above 3 one-half inch to 4, then curve the shoulder-seam of the back; form also the curved line from 4 to 6.

Point 6 is midway between 3 and 7. Make the width of the back at waist 2 inches, and from 2 draw a straight line down to the bottom.

Now curve the side seam from 6 past 2 to 10 at bottom, which point is three-fourths of an inch outside of the straight line, also connect L and 10 by a line.

THE SIDE-BODY.

Cut out the back and lay it on the paper in such a manner that the breast-line will lay on the same line further towards the front, so that there will be sufficient room at the[28] bottom to draft out the side-body whole. Now, first draw along the edge of the back from 6 to 2; go in at 2 one inch, and curve from the blade down to 13.

At 13 draw a straight line down, and curve out from 13 to 18; this last will be exactly underneath point 8 of the back, and from here to the bottom draw it with a slight curve to 20, which is the same length as point 10 of the back.

From 14 to 13 is 2 inches, and make the distance from 11 to 12 the same; now draw a straight line from 12 to 14, and down to the bottom.

Go out from 15 to 16 one inch, and curve seam from 14 to 19, which should not be over 1½ inch outside of straight line. Draw line from 20 to 19.

THE FRONT.

Lay the side-body on breast-line and back in position against side-body, so that the breast-line of each lays correct and straight, then measure from I on centre of the back to the centre of the front D, half-breast, or 18 inches; at this last point draw a line up and down for front line.

Point 12 of the side-body will now be the same as point 21 of the front; draw down to 27 a line with a slight curve to shape in at waist; also draw a straight line down from 27 to 35 at bottom.

From P to C is one-sixth, or 3 inches, and the same to 23, now sweep the neck from P.

From C, which is one-half inch above the top line for erect or ordinary builds, on the line draw one to B on the back.

Now measure the length of shoulder on the back from 5 to 4, and place the same from C to 22, and curve a little above it, as shown in Fig. 15. From G on side-body forward to front of arm is one-fourth, or 4½ inches, where a line is drawn from H; then finish arm-hole from 22 to H and 21.

Finish the side-seam by going out at 31 1 inch to 33, and curve seam to 34; also locate the length by laying the side-body, point 12, on 21, and where 19 comes is 34.

From C, by 34, sweep the bottom of front and straighten this some in the centre.

At the centre of breast-line, beyond D, put one-half of breast, and curve the front line from 23 to waist at S, where it comes back to the straight line, and thence to the bottom at 30, where it is one-half inch outside of it. For a double-breasted jacket make the lap 2½ inches[29] at breast, 2 at waist, and 2¼ at bottom. Whatever the size of the draft at waist, from points S to 1½ on back, exceeds the actual measure must be taken out in darts.

In this Figure we take out one dart only, starting in the centre, J, which is between H and D, and take out between points 25 and 26, the full amount which will be about 2½ or 3 inches, starting the dart at 24, two-thirds above 25, and finishing about 4 inches below the hip-line.

In case two darts are preferred they are put in as already shown in previous Figures.

FIG. 16. SACK JACKET.

This shows the manner of drafting a jacket with an extra piece under the arm and only one dart in the front. The correctness of the lines, and the simplicity of the process, will be of much benefit to our students. This method is the same as we have given in several different styles, and therefore it is drafted in a similar manner. It requires only one method to draft all kinds of garments, and our aim in giving the different shapes is to familiarize our readers with its application to a variety of shapes and styles, so that whatever garment they may be called to cut they will be able to do it.

Let us take a size—36 breast, 24 waist, with a length of 30 inches, and a waist reaching down from neck 15½ inches.

In drafting, first draw the line O-F.

From O go down three-fourths inch for the top of the back.

From the top of the back to D is the length to the waist, 15½ inches; from the same point down to the bottom of the garment measure 30 inches to F.

At D go in to point 14 1½ inch. Then from the top of the back to 14 draw a straight line, and also draw one from 14 to F, curve slightly over the line below 14, past 20, to F. Make the width from 14 to 2 two inches, and run a line parallel with back-line from 2 to 29, and curve it a trifle, as shown on the Figure.

From O go down to C one-quarter of the breast, which is 9 inches, and draw a line across. Draw a line from O over to K at right angles with the back-line.

In the middle, between O and C, fix a point marked B and draw a line over to N. From C to G is one-third breast and 1 inch, equal to 7 inches, and draw a line at right[30] angles with line C-G. From G to H is one-fourth breast, equal to 4½ inches, there draw a line at right angles with the one under arm.

From 1, centre of back, to J, at the front of the breast, place one-half of the breast-measure, equal to 18 inches, and at J draw a right angle line up and down like line K-J and S. From O to 13 is 2 inches.

From N to 13 draw a line, and then, commencing at 13, curve the shoulder, letting it rise above the last line one-half inch to 14.

Starting three-fourths inch inside of line G begin to curve the arm-hole past 12 to 17 and H. In the middle, between N and G, fix the point to start seams from for the back. Draw line from thence past 19 to 2 and 29—this makes the back with narrow shoulders.

To draw the first side-body place from 2 to 3 one inch, curve the line from 19 to 3, gradually beginning to separate below 19 without curving too much, care being taken to get a neat curve. Below 3 curve toward the back till at hip, 21, it will meet the back, and thence downwards, till at the bottom it will over-lap the back 1 inch to 30.

Make the width of side-body at the top any distance desired, say 3 inches, and make it the same at waist, or from 3 to 4, 3 inches. Then curve from 17 to 4.

Lay a long straight-edge, closing at 17, and three-fourths inch from point 4; while in this position mark a line along it from the hip-line downward, and connect it by a curve from 4 to 24.

Go in from 4 to 5 a distance of three-fourths inch, and curve from 17 to 5, but be careful to commence to separate side-body only 1½ inch below 17. Lay a straight-edge, as before, at 17, and three-fourths inch from 5, so that it will lay towards front, then from hip downwards draw a line to the bottom and finish by curving from 5 to meet this at hip, 23.

From 17 to 18 may be only 1½ or 2 inches, according to the size—2 inches will be sufficient for a 36 breast.

Draw a straight line to 6 and take out a slight curve to shape it to the form. Again, lay a straight-edge against 18, and three-fourths inch from 6, and mark along it from the hips downward; curve from 6 to hip.

Commencing at 18, curve the front to 7, taking out one-half inch, then lay a straight-edge against 18, and three-fourths inch from 7 mark along it below the hips and finish the curve from 7 to 25.

To produce the front, place from K to P one-sixth of breast, equal to 3 inches, also the same from K to 16. From P to B draw a line, then place the same distance as on the back shoulder from 13 to 24 on to P to produce point 15, or the length of front shoulder, curve it above this line, and at 15 drop it one-half inch below. At 15 curve the arm-hole to H, going outside of the line enough to give the arm-hole a good shape, but under no consideration go beyond point H—rather go inside.

Curve the front-line one-fourth inch inside of 16, and outside at J one-half inch, and coming back to R, where it should spring out to the bottom one-half inch at S.

Add beyond last curve 1 inch for the lap, on a single-breasted jacket, all the way down.

Measure from 14 to 2, 3 to 4, 5 to 6, and 7 to R, which will be about 15 inches; but as the waist must be 12 inches, or one-half of 24, we must take out the difference in a dart,[31] which is 3 inches. Divide the space between H and J which gives point I, and from this draw a straight line down. Go down from I 2 inches to 17. On each side of the line at 9 place one-half of the dart, 1½ inch, then curve from 17 to 8, 27 and 35; also from the same point to 10, 28 and 36. At the bottom it should be three-fourths inch.

The bottom of the first side-body must be one-half inch longer than the back; the second the same length as the first; and the front must start at the same length as the second, and curve forward 1 inch below line 33 to 37.

[32]

FIG. 17. SHORT JACKET.

This gives a short jacket, of a neat, peculiar shape. As regards the darts all points are the same as given in Fig. 18, except that instead of putting in two side-bodies we only cut a dart out under the arm, and one across the front, both being equal, of a size required to make the waist lay close. The dart in front is started from H and runs into the pocket.

The back is made 4 inches wide at the waist and wide enough at the bottom to harmonize with it. Point F is the hip. Any sleeve cut to the size of arm-hole will go with this.

[33]

FIG. 18. JERSEY BLOUSE.

Draw line O-J and O-F. From O to D is one-fourth of breast. From O to 20 is three-fourths inch. From O to D take one-half the distance to get point B, and in the centre, between B and D, is point C. From 20 to E is length of back and to F the full length.

Go in from E 1½ inch and draw the back-line from 20 to 1½ and to F. From O is 2 inches for top of back to 2. From D is one-third of breast and 1 inch to G. Draw a line up from G to 6. From 6 draw one to 2 and curve 1 inch above it at 1.

Curve arm-hole from 1 through 9 to 10. From G to H is one-fourth of breast—4½ inches on a 36 breast. Draw a line up. From back, near D, to K is one-half of breast.[34] Draw line up and down. From J back to I is one-sixth of breast, and the same down to 3.

From I to 6 draw a line. Curve above line at 18 one-half inch for front shoulder, and curve the arm-hole from 18 to 17, and H to 10. Point 10 is about 1½ inch from G.

Make the width of back 5½ inches from 1½ and 9½ inches to point 10, and 10 inches at bottom. Then curve the side-seam at 10 to 5½ and U. From N, at front of the waist, go in 3 inches, to 16 4½ inches, and to 4 6 inches.

Draw a straight line up and down through 16, and form the dart, from 20, through 3 and 4, to 5 and 6.

Lay the back on the front to meet at 10, 5½ on V, 8 on U, to get the right curve for the side seam.

Measure the waist and make the distance at V to correspond with it. Using I as pivot sweep from 8 for the bottom of the front.

Add one-half inch button-stand, and 1 inch on the side the buttons are sewed on. Buttons should be 1 inch apart.

The Jersey is finished with standing collar.

This pattern is intended only for goods which are elastic—like stockinet or tweed.

The seams in the dart and at side should be stretched somewhat in pressing, thus allowing them to fit closer to the form.

FIG. 19. GIRL’S SACK.

This is a sack for a young girl of size 31 breast, close-fitting. The figure illustrates a very jaunty and comfortable jacket.

For the Fall Season it should be made of heavy ribbed cloaking, of a dark shade of grey, and an extra neat finish is obtained by binding it with a braid of a darker shade, and buttons to match the braid.

It has eight buttons in front, is cut single-breasted, with a very small turn-over lapel, which allows it to be buttoned up close to the neck.

A side edge is imitated on the back by braid, and three buttons put on it.

The full-size pattern may be cut by following the Figure, as represented, using inches for every number marked out.

In order that this may be readily understood we will go over this manner of doing it again, so that our readers who desire to take them off may not make any mistakes.

First draw a line on the edge of paper, and draw out the back first, by fixing a point at the top.

O is the starting point. From O go down in inches as indicated by the points marked ¾, 2¾, 5¾, 13, 20 and 34.

Draw lines across from these points and apply the numbers on the Figure to these[35] lines. When all these points are fixed connect the points by lines, which will form the outlines of the back.

For the side-body use the same process and you will have the full size. It can be made double-breasted by adding 1½ inch in front of the breast all the way down.

[36]

FIG. 20. BRAIDED JACKET.

This Figure represents a fashionable style of close-fitting jackets for Spring wear. They are made single-breasted, having the buttons close together, and have the appearance of a Jersey. The same may be made double-breasted by the addition of 2 inches to the front. In trimming they may be plain, with nothing but small flat lasting, or a round crochet button. Braid in military style may be used, or a simple binding.

The Figure is drawn from a pattern of a 36 breast, 25 waist; the length may be regulated to taste. In drafting this pattern use inches for all the figures on the draft.

[37]

FIG. 21. DOUBLE-BREASTED CUT-AWAY JACKET.

This gives an elegant and very stylish jacket. The front is double-breasted towards the top with a broad, sharp lap, while at the waist only one button is used.

In order to enlarge the draft to full size, which is a 36 inch breast-measure, use inches for all the figures on the draft.

The jacket itself is finished at the neck with a collar, which is put on to the cape. The front, at the neck, is held together by an agraffe ornament. This garment, as it should appear, may be seen by the illustration.

[38]

FIG. 22. LADY’S JACKET.

These drafts illustrate a new style of lady’s jacket, which will be acceptable to many for street wear. The style and general effect at once denote the character of the garment. The jacket is well adapted for outdoor wear. It is made with a moderate addition for double-breasted added on to the fore-part, and the button holes are worked in close together, as the buttons now used are so very small; therefore, on this jacket, they are placed only one inch apart.

The waist is medium length, and the skirt can be made to suit the height of the lady. A lap-over is made at the centre of the back skirt, finished off with small buttons put close together.

The pockets may be put in at the side like a coat pocket, or only a flap put on, leaving the top edge unfastened, which forms the opening. In the latter case it can be ornamented with buttons. Pockets, however, are only put in when it is cut longer than Figure.

The sleeves are narrow, finished by a row of buttons, and can be regulated in width by the measure of the arm. This is very essential, as ladies now-a-days like the sleeve as close as possible.

The darts are cut down to the bottom, which is more preferable to running them to a point, as a seam looks better which runs continuously to the bottom. Cutting the dart so that it reaches only to the hip, will, unless carefully made, rise up in a puff at its lower end. It must always be borne in mind that the spring must be allowed to rise at the side-seam.[39] The sudden rise of a lady’s hip, and the marked difference between the size of the waist and of the body but a few inches below, make it extremely difficult to obtain the necessary amount of freedom for the prominence of the figure at this part of the body.

The bottom edge of this jacket should be edged on the inside by a facing of silk, which is held on tight so that the edge may cling close to the dress-skirt.

The collar is cut like a coat-collar and the lapel rolls short. A narrow binding one-half inch wide is put on the edge on all goods with a close and firm texture, while on heavy, loose material, the stitching looks more appropriate.

The button-holes run down to the bottom of the skirt. This form of jacket makes up well in fine diagonal or brocaded velvet.

For heavy winter wear, rough suiting will make very stylish garments.

The lower edge of this jacket may be drawn straight across instead of curving up over the hips as on the Figure, and then it is equally as well adapted to be worn with any dress, as in the shape we illustrate.

[40]

FIG. 23. SINGLE-BREASTED LONG SACK.

Figure 23 represents a long, close-fitting, single-breasted sack, consisting of back, side-body, front and sleeve. They are all drawn by measuring the lines, and placing the number of inches on each line as designated by the numbers shown on the Figure. Thus, for the back draw a straight line from O, then apply each measure as shown, and draw the lines across at right angles with the line O. When these figures are all located, finish by drawing the outlines.

Draw the straight line O down to the desired length for the side-body; at 28½ apply the figures on the lines—when these are all fixed curve the outlines.

For the front, draw the straight line down from O, and mark the number of inches for both length and width; when these are all fixed finish the outlines.

The sleeve is drawn from O down to the required length, applying the number of inches for length as well as width, as shown; after these have all been found, and the line drawn at right angles with the line O, draw the outlines. After the upper part of[41] the sleeve has been drawn cut it out; then locate the points for the under-sleeve, and lay the back of upper-sleeve against the points of the back part of the under-sleeve, and draw it like the back of upper-sleeve; fix the points in front, and lay the upper-sleeve on and draw for the front of sleeve, then finish for top, as shown.

FIG. 24. JACKET OR CLOAK—FROM A WAIST PATTERN.

The method which is explained below is one of the most handy, as well as the easiest, that can be used, and will invariably produce good results. It is evident, in the first place, that the original pattern must have the essential qualities of fit and good lines, otherwise it would be of little value as a base or guide to produce another garment. In order to get such a waist pattern one must be able to design it, or have it on hand; in the latter case we are prepared to furnish these patterns when ordered.

THE BACK:

In drafting a jacket pattern, first draw a line (like O-G) on the edge of your paper. Lay the back against the line at O and within 1½ inch of the line at the waist, then trace along the centre seam from O to 5. Now move it one-fourth inch away, this is for seam; then the same quantity is allowed above at neck from 1 to 2 and from 2 to 3.

Along the arm-hole, from 3 to 4, trace close to the pattern. Measure next the length wanted from O to 5 and 9 and draw a line over to 10. From 5 to 9 draw a straight line, and then curve outside of this, at point 8, about one-half inch, as shown on Figure.

Make the width of waist any size desired, say 3 inches, which establishes point 7, and from this point draw a line down to 10. This line should be no further away from the first line at 10 than at 7, or the distance from the line 9 to 10 should be the same as at waist, from 1½ to 7. Now, starting at 4, slightly curve to 7 and go one-half inch outside of straight line to 10.

THE SIDE-BODY.

In this case, as on the back, the first thing we do is to draw a straight line from O to 10. Now lay the side-body against it, at O, and swing it away from the line at the waist 1¼ inch. Trace along the pattern from O to 1¼. Then move the pattern one-fourth inch away from the last line, which would leave from 1 to 3 just one-fourth inch for the seam. From 5 to 6 go in one-half the distance allowed over and above the allowance on the back, as from 6 to 7. Now curve the side-body from 2 to 5, keeping as nearly as possible the same shape as the original. Then from 5 draw a line down parallel with the first line which runs from O to 10. Now apply the back from 2 to 9 and regulate the length, which is point 9; then from 5 curve one-half inch outside of straight line at 8 to 9. At 9, square across to 10, and also draw a straight line from 1¼ to 10, and begin to curve from 3, past 7, to 10. This curve should be more round near hip, or begin to curve closer to the waist. The curves on the back and on the side seam, from 5 to 8, may be gradual, as it thus has the appearance of being longer waisted than it actually is.

[42]

THE FRONT.

First draw the straight line like O-B. Lay the fore-part of the pattern against this line, touching at the centre of the breast, B, and trace along it at the front from 1 to the bottom at 3. Next move the pattern back one-half inch to B. Trace along the arm-hole without any allowances, but on the top of shoulder add one-fourth inch, also a trifle at neck. On the side-seam, from 15 to 20, add one-fourth inch; then lay the finished side-body on top of the front, touching point 15, and at the waist at 20, and finish the balance[43] from 20 to 22 by the side-body. Now from the top of the shoulder-point, by the bottom, point 22, sweep the bottom to the front at B. From 3 to B draw a straight line, and for a double-breasted jacket, as the Figure given, add on to the front, at B, 3 inches, at waist 2½ inches, at the bottom 3 inches, and shape it as shown. At the bottom, after it has been curved by a sweep, straighten it one-half inch above the sweep in the centre. Instead of two darts at the back only one is used, as shown, and this one can be increased one-half inch, and a cut is also taken out under the arm from 16 to 17.

It is evident that two darts can be put in as well as one, or when the same is intended for plush goods the darts can be left out altogether without altering the balance in any manner.

To produce a collar for this jacket draw a line from C, where it is intended to roll, to E, which is one-half inch from curved line of neck; then drop down from this line at 13 to 11 one inch and curve the break, as shown from 11 to E. From 11 to 12 is ¾ inch; curve this also to neckline at F, and thence along the neck to the front. From 11 to 13 make the part of collar which is to turn over 1½ to 2 inches wide, and shape to the front at G.

Sleeves for this jacket are cut similar to those already explained.

FIGS. 25 AND 26. WALKING COAT.

By using a sack pattern, cut to the measure, a walking-coat can be cut in the most ready manner.

The back is the same as a sack-jacket. We only measure from the top down to the length of open skirt A. From here add the lap for pleats; single pleats require only 1¼ inch; box pleats, according to size, 2 to 4 inches.

The side-body is cut off at a length to correspond to 2 on back, plus one-half inch, and curved up some towards side seam.

The front is made as long as the side-body, and the bottom swept from the shoulder-point. When cut it will leave the skirt in pieces as 1, 2, 3 and 4.

Now take these pieces and lay them down, closing at hip, so that the opening will be no more at bottom than at top; they lay close together at 12, 13 and 14.

Now draw along the skirt at back from 4 to 15. From 4 draw towards 5, raise one-half inch above the pattern to 10, curving pattern at front.

[44]

Put in a dart at 7. From 11 to 16 trace along the front, and also along the bottom. Add the pleat behind.

The side-body in this Figure is laid in a closing position at side, point 2, to show that the seam must have a continuous curve from 1 and 2 to the front.

The distance from 1 and 2 to 3, and from there to the front, is noted, and the skirt from 4 to 5-7 and 11 should be just the same with 1 inch more added, which is pressed in before the skirt is seamed on to the fore-part. It will be noticed that in laying the pieces of the of the skirt together they close at 14, 12 and 13, but at the top and bottom they are separated, equal distances, the cut at 7 reduces one opening, and 1 inch fullness equalizes the amount the fullness is greater at 9 and forward. The addition for single and double-breasted is made by adding on in front of the fore-part and also on to the skirt: for a single-breasted 1 inch is enough, but for a double-breasted from 2 to 3 inches is required.

[45]

FIG. 27. DOUBLE-BREASTED NEWMARKET JACKET.

Commence this by drafting on the same principle as all drafts—by the Proportionate System—by drawing line from O to F. From O go down to 11 three-fourths of an inch, and to 10 2 inches; from 11 to 10 curve the top of the back, and measure from the top of the back, at 11, to C, the length of waist 15 inches, to D 18 inches and to F the full length, 32 inches; at C, O and F draw right angle lines across. From C to the back is 1½ inch; Draw a line from 11 to 1½, and one from 1½ to F; make the width of back from 1½ to[46] 2 inches wide. From O to B is one-fourth of the breast-measure, 9 inches in a 36 inch breast, and A is midway between these two points; draw lines over from A and B. From B to G is one-third of breast and 1 inch, equal to 7 inches; from G to H is one-fourth of breast, or 4½ inches. From Y to J is one-half of breast, 18 inches; draw lines up from G, H and J, also down from J to N.

Where line A crosses line G, at M, draw another line from M to 10; raise one-half inch above M to V, and draw a curved line from 10 to V.

Commence to curve the arm-hole from V to M and H, dropping one-fourth inch below breast-line at 15.

In the centre, between M and G, begin to draw the back to 2 at waist, and from there, with a slight curve, to Z at the bottom, so that the distance from F to Z will be about equal to that from C to 2.

Go in from 2 to 3 one inch and shape the side-body from line under the arm to 3 and S, where it touches the back; make the side-body any width desired, say 2 inches to 14, the same from 3 to 4, curve the seam under the arm and spring it out below 4 to 21, to give it ease over the hips; also draw the curve for the piece under the arm from 14 to 4 and 20. From S curve up to 21, which latter point is 1½ inch above the line S-18. Point 20 is on the same level as 21, the line runs straight across to the front seam which runs down from 5. The piece under the arm is 1½ inch wide at top, from 14 to 15, and 2 inches from 4 to 5; this should be shaped somewhat like draft.

From L to I is one-sixth of the breast, 3 inches, and the same down from L to T. Curve the neck; from I to A draw a straight line, and place the length of shoulder from 10 to V on the front from I to U; shape the front of shoulder by dropping below line at U one-half inch, and raise slightly above it at 12.

Finish drawing the arm-hole from U to H, going out beyond the line H at 13 about one half inch.

Draw from T, at the front, outside of J one-half inch, thence to K at waist, going inside of front line one-fourth inch at K and N to point P at bottom.

In the middle, between J and H, locate a point for the dart, and in the centre, between this and H, fix another point for the back dart. From K to 1½, across the waist, measure the distance, taking out 1 inch between 2 and 3, which will be 16 inches; deduct the size of waist, 12 inches, from 16 inches and the remainder, 4 inches, is to be taken out in darts; therefore, put in two darts of 2 inches each. From K to 9 is 2 inches; from 9 to 8 is one dart; from 8 to 7, between the darts, is three-fourths inch; from 7 to 6 is another dart of 2 inches. About 2½ inches below the waist-line begin to draw the darts past 9, 8, 7 and 6, nearly straight down from waist-line. From 21 curve lower seam to 19, 18 and N; at N it is one-half inch below straight line.

Make the lapel straight on its inside edge, and 2 inches at waist, and 3 inches at centre of breast, in width, and shape like Figure.

To draw the skirt lay a straight-edge from 3 to S against the side-body, and draw a line to R, then curve it about one-half inch more over the hips. Regulate the length by the back. From S draw the upper edge of the skirt to within one-half inch of side-body[47] at 21, thence to N; from N forward add the width of lapel and draw straight down; also put in two cuts on the hip, of one-half inch each, and the skirt will be right to fit the body. Should it, on measuring, be a little too wide, take the extra width off in front; whatever overlaps on the side-body will equalize the loss of the darts.

A flap can be put on over the hips. An ordinary coat-collar will suit this jacket.

FIG. 28. TRAVELING ULSTER.

A Spring and Fall garment for traveling or outdoor wear is represented by this Figure and is a reduced copy of the pattern of a 38 size breast, and can be readily enlarged by simply using inches for the numbers marked upon it. The draft is a close-fitting traveling paletot, double-breasted, and buttons down to the bottom, and has a collar which[48] turns over, as represented by Fig. 5. This collar should be well stretched with the hot iron, at the lower edge, before it is sewed on, in order that it may cling around the neck nicely. This way of making and sewing on a collar is far superior to the usual custom of dressmakers, and is always adopted by tailors in making jackets or other ladies’ garments.

The back has at its centre, below the waist, a lap, which can be put in a box-pleat or lapped over like a coat, and at the side it has a simple pleat.

The front has a large dart cut in one piece—that is, like a sack coat, having the skirt attached to the body—but the side-body is sewed in as cut, in a separate piece. Over the hips pockets are put in covered with liberal flaps.

For use as a traveling garment it will be well to make it out of waterproof cloth, but it makes a handsome street paletot when made out of diagonal cloth or melton.

[49]

FIGS. 29 AND 30. NEWMARKET.

This style of Newmarket has only one dart. Proceed to make a full size draft in accordance with the directions. First draw a straight line O, and mark off the number of inches down from O, as given on the Figure; at these points draw lines across, and on these lines mark the number of inches as given, in like manner proceed to draw each part of the garment.

[50]

FIG. 31. RIDING-HABIT.

[51]

The demand and orders for these garments have, so far, been considerable in the leading houses, and a few hints are always seasonable, not only to those who make them for the highest fashionables, but especially to those who are located in smaller towns and who are not often called upon to make this style of garment. There are now many ladies who have a horse at their disposal, and whose chief enjoyment is in equestrian exercise, and it is quite necessary, not only for the tailor but the dressmaker, to know how a riding-habit should be cut and made. At one time it was thought impossible for anyone but a tailor to make a stylish riding-habit, but now many ladies have them made by their dressmakers.

The first thing necessary is a good measure of the form, by which a correct pattern must be cut, as a well-setting, comfortable riding-habit cannot be made without it.

The jacket has a few peculiarities:

There should be no seam down the middle of the back; the front, side-body and back are cut one inch below the natural waist.

The skirt and back form a pleat like the skirt-pleat of a coat.

The buttons should be small and round. The sleeves are tightly buttoned up at wrist.

The inside of jacket should be lined with silk, carefully wadded and stitched in close rows. It should have a belt inside, stitched to each seam at waist, which is to close it tight to the form.

The Figures we give show to advantage some of these peculiarities. The draft is a good model of such a habit, and is universally adopted, being both suitable and elegant. It “looks quite English”[52] and very pretty. A plain standing collar of white linen should be worn with it and a gentleman’s cravat of black silk, or if the jacket is made with the lapels turning down a flat scarf is more appropriate.

We add to this an article published in “Munster’s Gazette of Fashion” on riding-habits. This will enable our readers to be more fully posted, not only on what is worn here but what is in keeping with London styles:

In order to produce Figure 31 use inches for all numbers on the draft. But in drafting it to measure use the same principle as laid down for waists, and lengthen the skirt as on Figure 7 and draw the skirt like that on last Figure.

FIG. 32. CIRCULAR.

Draw lines O-5 and O-J. From O to J is one-fourth of breast. From O to H is one-third of breast. Lay the pattern of the back against H and 1½ inch inside of line at the waist. Lay also the pattern of the front against the shoulder of the back near F and[53] touching front-line at J. Draw along the top of the back from H to 1, and add to the pattern at 1, for seams, one-half inch. Draw from 1 to F and from 2, on the front shoulder, to F. From J, along the front of the body-pattern, draw a straight line to 4. Now from 1 and 2 draw a line and make a point in the centre at 3. Apply the length from H to 5 for full length of what the garment should be, and using point 3 as a pivot sweep from 5 to the front for the lower or bottom edge; then square the bottom at 5, and in front at 4, as shown in the Figure.

If a seam is wanted draw a line through the centre from F and take out about 3 inches at bottom, starting from 6 to 7 and 6 to 8.

For a close back, curve from H along the back to 1½ and thence to 5 at bottom.

[54]

FIGS. 33 AND 34. RUSSIAN CIRCULAR.

In making a pattern of this garment we first draw a line on the edge of paper and make a point on the right end, as O. From O down place three-fourths of an inch. From O to I is one-half of breast measure, or 9 inches, for a 36 size. Between O and I is J. H and I are at right angles with first back-line. From I over on the line place one-third of breast, equal to 6 inches, and add 1 inch, making in all 7 inches, and draw a line up to 5. Next, from O on top line place 2 or 2½ inches and curve from ¾ to 2½.

Measure down from ¾ to D, the length of waist, say 15 inches, and the whole length to R. Go in from straight line at D 1½ inch and curve the right back-seam from ¾ to 1½ and R.

Make the back, at waist, 4 inches wide and curve from 5 through waist at 11 to 12 at bottom. The run of this line should be nearly straight past V and curving at 11, and should also be wider at bottom, about 1 inch more than from D to 11. From 2½ draw a line raising it one-half inch at 5.

For the front (Figure 34) draw a straight line from O to J. From O down to a is one-eighth of breast, equal to 2¼ inches. From O to B is one-sixth of breast, or 3 inches. From O to K is one-fourth of breast, or 9 inches. Square lines across at all these points. From O to A, the neck, is one-sixth of breast.

Lay the back on to the point A and extreme shoulder resting on the line at C. Now draw along the back shoulder while it is in this position, and also curve from C to 12, which should only be 4 inches below C.

From K go out to H one-quarter of the breast, less 1 inch, equal to 8 inches. Having established this we can curve the shoulder easier, as seen by dotted lines. Measure from K over on the line one-half of breast, equal to 18 inches, and one-third of breast, or 6 inches, added.

Now lay the back-line against this last point in such a way that point 5 of the back will rest on line A-13, and so that it will be placed as seen in Figure 35. Then carefully measure to see if the distance from K-H and to the back-line will be exactly one-halt and one-third of breast, or 27 inches. Then curve from 12 to 13 to 14 down the back and reducing it at the bottom about 4 inches from the position as it would be when the back is laid as stated.

Now by the length of the back regulate that of the front, and then sweep by the point of shoulder A from 10 to J. This latter point, and part of this round, as produced by the sweep, should[55] be shortened about 1 inch. Curve the neck from A to B, and add 1 inch all along the front for a turn-in hem.

From where the back lies against the wing, at O, draw the curve to 13 on the top of sleeve head.

The upper part of the sleeve-head should be gathered-in considerable, and at O a notch should be placed to facilitate the sewing in, for notch should be sewn on notch. (See Figure 35.)

[56]

FIG. 35. CLOSED CIRCULAR.

After this has been drawn the same as the Russian circular, lay it against the front and cut without a seam from O down to the bottom. For this shape, after the shoulders are seamed up, gather in the round of sleeve from O forward. The same can be cut like the circular; also cut off in front from top, past V, to the bottom, in a straight line down from B. This makes a wrap with a back wing and a front. When cut in this manner an opening can be left for the hands to go through, as shown on the Figure, below E.

A short cape, such as have been worn for some time in Europe, and are just making their appearance here, is cut like this, reaching, however, only to the waist. This same[57] wrap can be cut from a dolman pattern by laying the sleeve of a dolman on to front so that the front notches come together and the two patterns close together some distance above, or till within 4 or 5 inches of the top of the shoulder, then draw along sleeve-top past the back of the sleeve.

If a line is drawn through the shoulder-point, next to the sleeve, at right angles with the front, and the back shoulder-point laid on this line and closing against the sleeve at blade, it will represent exactly this circular cape, and will be one of the easiest ways to make it. The Figure shows the outline of the dolman sleeve by the dotted line from E forward, as it appears when lying in position.

These several wraps can be made of silk, and fur-lined, or they may be of brocade, velvet, or seal, and are handsome in shape and outline when correctly cut. As they are so different from the old circular they will be much sought after, because of the newness of design and that the sleeve can be raised on the shoulder to harmonize with the increased prevalence of gathered and high style of sleeve-heads.

FIGS. 36, 37, 38, 39, 40. DOLMAN.

Draw a line O-H; from O, down, mark three-fourths of an inch. From O draw a short line over to 3, and make it 2½ inches. From O down to B is one-fourth of breast, equal to 9 inches on a 36 breast. Point F is in the centre, between O and B; from ¾ to D is the length of the waist, and to H the full length of garment. Draw lines across at F, B and D. Between F and B, directly in the centre, make a mark C, and draw a line across.

Go in at the waist 1⅓ inch from line at D; draw line from ¾ to 1½ for the centre of back, and curve below D to H. From 1½, at waist, measure in to 4 3½ inches to 4 inches.

On line C make the width of back one-third of breast and one inch and draw a line up.

On the top of shoulder draw a line from 3 to 14, and raise it one-half inch above 14; commencing there, exactly[58] at the crossing of the lines, begin to curve past 16 and 4 to 1 at bottom. Having finished the back, first make a line across in the middle, between ¾ and F, from E over; next lay a sleeve pattern, of regular size, on 15 as when sewn in the arm-hole; holding it at 15, swing it down till the upper part of the sleeve-head rests about one-half inch below line E, at 13, and when in this position draw along the round of the sleeve, which will give exactly the round as shown on the Figure from 15, past 13, to 2.

[59]

Next, placing the width over from B on the back line, measure to 10, 24 inches, and curve the sleeve from 2 to 10, running below the line 2 inches. Point G is about 12 inches below the waist, and from this place 1 inch more than one-quarter of the hips to 8, and draw from 6, which is one-quarter of hip from D, a line through 8 to 9; then finish the curve at bottom, and shape the round of front of sleeve to any desired shape. The front is constructed by drawing a line from O down the front edge or centre of front.

From O over to shoulder point is one-sixth breast, the same down to 3; also go down one-eighth breast and draw a line across; curve the neck from ⅙ to 3, and apply the same width of shoulder as the back on the front, ⅙ to 10. From O down is one-half breast to E, there draw a line over to 8 and make last point, from E, one-fourth breast less 1 inch.

[60]

Measure the distance on the back, from B to H, and place it from E to P, then sweep the bottom of the front by the shoulder-point, which gives line P to K. Make the distance over from H to J one-quarter of the hips, and 1 to 1½, inch more; draw a line from K through J to L. Next measure the back from 6 to 9 and place the same from K up to L; curve arm-hole from 10 through 8 to L. Add 3 inches for a lap of double-breasted style; mark and space the buttons.

The under-sleeve is cut like the upper part from 2 to 10 and 11, like the outside curve. The inside curve from 2 to 7 is short, just as much as is needed to sew in the front—to find how much this should be we make a notch opposite 14 and one at 2, which is about 10 inches from 14. This measure, less 1 inch, is marked from 10 to 16, and at that point make another notch. What is left from 16 to L must be placed from 2 to 7, and this curve should be like curve on front. Lastly, draw a line from 7 to the star, which finishes the whole garment.

In order to draft a dolman pattern which will fit well and hang with a good balance the same manner of drafting as that which produces a good shaped sack should be used, then the balance and hang of the garment will be equally as good as in a tight-fitting sack, and a dolman can then be cut as close as a sack, if so desired.

The manner of drafting the back, side-body and front, are, in fact, just like a sack, the main difference being in the shape of the sleeve. The sleeve, even in the upper part, must be like an ordinary coat-sleeve, while the lower part may be any of the various shapes in fashion.

In drafting make a line to start on from O to F (Figure 37); from O down is three-fourths inch, and from O over to top line is 2¼ inches to 1. From O to B is one-fourth of breast, 9 inches of a 36 size. Point D is in the middle, between O and B, and point 6 is in the middle, between O and D. From ¾, which is the top of the back, measure down to C 15 inches, and to F 40 inches, the full length. Point E is 6 inches, or one-third of breast, below the waist-line at C. At all these points draw lines across. From B to H is one-third and 1 inch, equal, on 36 breast, to 7 inches; draw a line up to J; in the middle, between I, the point where the two lines cross and H, mark point K. At the waist-line go in from straight line C to 3 one and one-half inches, then draw line down from ¾ to 3 and from 3 to F. Also draw a straight line at right angles with waist-line from 3 to 6 at bottom.

Make the width at waist, from 3 to 4, about 3 inches, and draw also a line down to 7. Now curve back-seam, as shown, and whatever amount there is from 6 to F place from 7 to 8, and curve from 4 past 5 to 8.

Draw a line from I to 1, raise above I to J three-fourths[61] inch, and curve the shoulder. Starting from J up upright line, curve back seam to 4 and 8; also mark a dim line from J past I, K to G, just like in a sack back—the dotted line shows that. Point G is one-fourth of breast, or 9 inches, from B.

Notice that the curve on the back, from C to 3, is a trifle outside of the straight line, and that below 3 it runs a shade inside to give an appearance of a long waist, and below E it curves outside again to F.

The inside seam from J past breast-line should be very nearly straight, and begin to curve only near the waist, and from 5 down it must have the same curve as outside line below point E to F.

Now have a sleeve cut for a 36 size and lay this on to K, as shown, so that the sleeve-head rests against the line from K to I; then in the centre, between I and K, find point 2 and stick a pin.

Now turn to Figure 38: In the middle, between line A and D, draw line E; keeping it pinned at 2, move the lower part of the sleeve towards the back till the top of the sleeve-head[62] just touches line E at 10. While it lays thus draw along the top from 2 to 10 and 9, also down from 9, in front of sleeve pattern, to line B. This gives the outline of the sleeve, but we modify it by drawing a corrected line from 10, inside of point 9 of sleeve, down to 12.

Figure 39 gives the balance of the sleeve. First draw a line in the centre, between lines B and C, which places line D.

Then take out the pin which was placed in the sleeve at point 2, and without moving the sleeve stick a pin at point U; this point is found two-thirds of the width of the sleeve forward. When this is done take hold of the sleeve at its lower point and move it upwards, till point T of sleeve rests on line D at N, and then curve from 16 to N. To produce this curve just right take the distance from line B at 18 to line D at 17, and place the same from 17 to 19, and draw a straight line from 19 to 18, then curve line from 16, resting on line at 20, thence to N. From N curve form of sleeve to 21 and 15, and to 13 for one style of sleeve, or from U to 21 and 14 for another style.

Go in from 4 to 5 three-quarters of an inch; curve from 10, past 2, touching the back, and along it past line B, and thence separate from the back to 5 and 14—this last line must touch at point 13 on the straight line which was drawn down from point 4 on Fig. 37 and is marked 5 on the same.

THE FRONT—FIG. 40.

Lay the back down on paper and extend all the lines across, line A, B, C, D and bottom line. Measure from Z to A on line B, one-half of breast, or 18 inches; from B to H is one-third of breast and 1 inch; H to P is one-fourth of breast, equal to 4½ inches. Draw a line up at P, and one up and down at A. Mark line A also. From K to L is one-sixth of breast, equal to 3 inches, and K to 7 is the same, 3 inches; curve neck.

Draw a line from L to D and place the width of the top of shoulder on the back from L to 8, and curve from 8 upwards above the line one-fourth inch; draw from 8 down in front of line P to 9. This will be three-fourths inch in front of line P. Let this curve of the arm-hole extend below line B, or nearly down to midway between lines B and C, and curve to 6. From 6 draw down to 5, which is three-fourths inch from 4 to 15 and 17; at the last point it should be about 1¼ inch over the straight line drawn down from 4 on the back.

From point G, which, as before stated, is one-fourth of the breast-measure, 9 inches from B, draw a straight line down. Curve from G to 12, 13 and 18; the last point is 2 inches from T; also curve from G to 12, 14 and 19. Point 19 is the same distance from T as 18.

[63]

Draw bottom line from 19 to 30 at front, where curve three-fourths inch below the line. Add in front over F line, for double-breasted 3 inches, and for single-breasted 1½ inches.

Now we have only to show how the under-sleeve is produced. This is done by measuring first the sleeve-head from O, where point J of the back is sewn on, to 16, which point is in middle, between 9 and 18. This will measure 10½ inches; as we put in 1 inch of fullness in the sleeve-head it leaves us only 9½ inches, which is measured down the front from 8 to 10 and notched. Lay sleeve notch, marked 16, on to notch on the fore-part 10, hold it there with a pin, move it till line on sleeve, marked C, will lay parallel with[64] any of the lines, as C or B on fore-part. Then mark on the fore-part along the sleeve, from notch at 10 to N of sleeve, and from N to 21; the sleeve will now be marked on the fore-part line 10 to O, P and A, and will be cut the same shape as the arm-hole from 10 to A, and can be traced off on another sheet of paper.

The principle as given in this article is suitable, and the only thing necessary, to produce any style of dolman. The change necessary for the short or long pointed sleeve, or for any shape of arm-wing, does not alter the principle. Pleated backs, or very much fullness in the top of the sleeve, must be met by putting enough extra goods in to meet the amount required for pleats or fullness.

When a regular pattern is cut addition is made where pleats are wanted. When more fullness is wanted in the sleeve the easiest and most correct plan is to cut the sleeve in two, from the highest part of the sleeve-head, and opened as far as required, about 1 or 2 inches, and a little more round put on the top.

The principle, as shown in this book, will produce for every style of garment a correct fit, and yet it may be urged upon all using it, that in order to produce new styles, or garments of such styles that contain pleats or ornaments laid on the cloth, the reader’s own judgment must necessarily help to carry him through.

In conclusion, let me say—that any point or measuring that does not seem clear, by addressing me I will always be ready to enlighten to the best of my ability.