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Title: Private Journal of Henry Francis Brooke
Late Brigadier-General Commanding 2nd Infantry Brigade
Kandahar Field Force, Southern Afghanistan, from April
22nd to August 16th, 1880
Author: Henry Francis Brooke
Editor: Annie Brooke
Release Date: June 25, 2014 [EBook #46095]
Language: English
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FOR PRIVATE CIRCULATION ONLY.
PRIVATE JOURNAL
OF
HENRY FRANCIS BROOKE,
LATE BRIGADIER-GENERAL
COMMANDING 2ND INFANTRY BRIGADE
KANDAHAR FIELD FORCE,
SOUTHERN AFGHANISTAN,
FROM APRIL 22ND TO AUGUST 16TH, 1880.
For................................................
From...............................................
DUBLIN:
PRINTED BY WILLIAM CURWEN, 3, NASSAU STREET.
1881.
PREFACE.
The following Journal or Diary was written by my
dear Husband—to use his own words—"for you, of
course, first, but written in this form specially for
the dear chicks, and therefore quite simple and plain,
so as to interest and amuse them; but I shall be very
glad if it interests the others if you will send it the
rounds, as then I need not try to write the same
story over and over again, which is very tiresome."
When on the 20th March, 1880, being at the time
Adjutant-General of the Bombay Army, my dear
Husband, to his infinite satisfaction and delight, and
full of ardour and zeal, was ordered to the Front, to
take command, as Brigadier-General, of the 2nd
Infantry Brigade at Kandahar, Southern Afghanistan;
knowing how deeply interested we (his wife,
and children, his mother, brothers and sisters) would
be in all his movements and actions, he conceived
the idea of writing this Journal, and most regularly
week by week, as he found time to write, and as the
Indian mail arrived, did I receive it, and most eagerly
was it looked for and read. It will be seen that at
first going off the wording of it was simple so that
the children might easily understand all that their
dear Father was doing, and small details describing
the various stages of his journey up to Kandahar
from Bombay are fully entered into with the object
of amusing and interesting them, and that they might
the more readily picture him both then, and when
later on, having reached Kandahar, and before
troubles began, he amused himself by daily rides into
the neighbouring fields and orchards, and still further
into the villages and surrounding districts, not always
unattended without a certain amount of risk and
danger, and thus became acquainted intimately with
the country within 12 or 15 miles of Kandahar. But
as difficulties developed themselves, and were followed,
first by the lamentable defeat and retreat from the
battlefield of Maiwand, of a portion of the already
too small force that was holding, what appeared to
him, the very false military position at Kandahar,
and ended as a climax, in the Siege of Kandahar
itself, the subject matter of the Journal necessarily
became of such painful interest, that the language of
it on many points almost went beyond the comprehension
of the children, or, at any rate, was not too
"simple" for their elders, albeit only too "plain"
and grievous for all to read hereafter, when we remembered
that He, whom we so dearly loved, had
been besieged within the walls of that city, and had
been in daily danger of losing that life so valuable to
his wife and children, and which, alas! it was God's
will—before the Kandahar garrison was relieved—should
be sacrificed in the performance, in the first
instance, of his duty, as a true and ardent soldier in
the service of his Queen and country, during the
sortie upon the village of Deh Khoja on the 16th
August, 1880, while in command of the attacking
party; and, more directly, in the endeavour to rescue
from a cruel death a brother officer—Captain Cruikshank
of the Royal Engineers—whom he found in
the village severely wounded and unable to save
himself! This sortie had been determined upon six
days before it was actually undertaken, and strongly
then objected to, for various sound military reasons,
by my dear Husband, as we now know by what is
written in the Journal of the events that daily occurred
during the Siege of Kandahar, and also from
friends who were there themselves, extracts from
whose letters—giving us the sad details of that ill-fated
sortie—will be found in the Appendix. These
extracts speak volumes of themselves, and need no
comment from me. The manner and character of
my dear Husband's self-sacrificing death are indications
in themselves of the ruling power which
influenced all his actions.
It will be seen that the Journal itself ends abruptly
with the events of the 14th August—all that happened
afterwards we have learnt through the letters
of kind friends—and when the former was written
it was never intended that it should have been
printed, but as all relating to my dear Husband has
now become of painful interest to those most nearly
connected with him, I have been asked, and have
yielded to the temptation, to print it as it stands,
for private circulation among his nearest relations,
to whom he was, in each relation of life, without
reproach, and who now mourn his irreparable loss.
ANNIE BROOKE.
Ashbrooke,
Brookeboro',
Ireland,
June 18, 1881.
[Pg 1]
JOURNAL.
RECEIVED ORDERS TO PROCEED TO KANDAHAR.
On Saturday, the 20th March, 1880, I received the
official notification that my appointment to the
command of a Brigade of the Kandahar Force had
been approved by the Viceroy, and I decided to
leave for Kurrachee by the mail steamer of the 27th,
as, although I had commenced my preparations a
few days before, there was still a good deal to be
done, and many things to be got to complete the
small service kit which I had to take with me. The
first thing to be thought of was some horses, as I
had only one at the time, and as the season for
purchasing horses in the Bombay market was over
(the best time is November, December, and January,
when the Arabs arrive from the Persian Gulf with
horses), I knew there would be great difficulty in
getting horses up to my weight. After many fruitless
visits to the various stables, I heard of a very
large and handsome Arab for sale at the stables of
Addool Rahman, the great horse dealer of Bombay,
who strongly recommended me to buy him if I was
[Pg 2]prepared to give the long price asked (£120).
After seeing him and riding him, I quite came to the
conclusion he was worth the money, and purchased
him, getting him for £110. I then bought a
Persian horse out of Sir Richard Temple's stud, for
which I gave £60, and with my old friend, a chesnut
Australian horse which I have now had for four
years, I felt quite made up, and requiring only a
pony, which I will get in Beloochistan. I have named
the Arab horse (an iron grey) "Akhbar," the
Persian (also a grey) "Selim," and the Australian's
name is "Rufus." Before going further I must
mention that I nearly lost both my new purchases
the day after they came into my stables, as the Arab
got a bad attack of colic, and the Persian got away
from the man who was leading him, and got a very
bad cut on his hind leg from some wire paling, but
fortunately both got better much more quickly than
I hoped, and seem very happy and comfortable
in their stalls on board this ship to-day (S.S.
"Umballa," at sea March 28th). The next thing to
do was to find servants, and in this I think I have
been fortunate, having got a quiet Portuguese as
general servant, to take care of my clothes, cook, and
make himself generally useful. He is to get 25
rupees a month, his clothes and food. Each horse
has its groom, and they seem good sort of men, but
there is not much choice, as one has to take pretty
much what can be got, as there is not much desire
among this class of men to see foreign parts. They
[Pg 3]
|Preparations for Kandahar.|
each get 15 rupees a month, and their clothes and
food. After the horses and servants were procured
the next consideration was how to get all the things
I wanted to take with me into the limit of weight
allowed us by the Regulations. I have, of course,
considerably more than other officers, but even so I
find it quite impossible to manage all I should like
to do, so I have brought about 100 lbs. over my
weight, as I can easily take any quantity I like as
far as the railway goes (i.e., to Sibi), and I am told
beyond that I shall perhaps be able to hire some
private carriage to take the extra quantity on to
Kandahar, and certainly to Quetta, where it can be
left, and sent on after me to Kandahar, when the
press of sending up troops is over. Even with this
extra weight I have been obliged, of course, to limit
greatly my desires and wants, but I hope I have got
together a fairly compact kit with nothing but what
is absolutely necessary in it. First of all I have two
very small trunks, which contain my clothes (all of
which are uniform), shirts, &c., &c. I have, as a
great treat, brought two white shirts, to be worn on
high days and holidays, as a change from the
coloured flannel shirts which, though useful and
appropriate for the occasion, are articles of dress I
dislike very much. As the cold season is now past,
and it is heat rather than cold we shall suffer from,
it has not been necessary to bring up warm clothing,
although, of course, I have a few warm things in
case of meeting sudden changes of temperature which
[Pg 4]is quite possible. General Hogg, the Quartermaster-General,
presented me with an excellent breech-loading
revolver, and I have purchased a sword belt
of the kind called the "Sam Browne Belt" (having
been invented by General Sir Sam Browne), as it is
so arranged that without inconvenience the pistol
and ammunition can be carried on it, and the sword
itself can be arranged according to one's pleasure,
for riding or walking, which is a great convenience.
The Government carry for me 200 lbs. weight of
tents (for other officers only 100 lbs.), so I have
purchased two tents, one for myself and the other
|Service kit for Kandahar.|
for the servants. My tent is 9 feet by 8, and has a
double top as a protection against the sun, and a
sort of small verandah on one side, which can be
used as a bath-room. The furniture of the tent
consists of a bed 6 feet long and 2 feet 3 inches wide,
a small folding table and one chair. When I get to
Kandahar, if obliged to live in a tent, I will, of
course, supplement this scanty supply by such
articles of native manufacture as I can get. I have
a block tin basin, but no tub, as that is too bulky
and heavy, and the custom on the march is to have
the water-carrier (Bheestie) to empty a skin of water
over one, which, though not so comfortable as a
marble bath, answers all the purposes very well.
My cooking utensils are so arranged as to go into a
strong basket 2 feet high and 12 inches in diameter.
In this there are 3 saucepans, which fit one into the
other, a kettle, a stewpan, a frying-pan, and a pewter
[Pg 5]teapot, and 2 teacups and saucers pack into the
saucepans, and 2 soup plates and 2 dinner plates,
enamelled iron, go into the stewpan. In my
luncheon basket are 3 knives, 3 forks, 3 spoons, and
a couple of glasses, so on a pinch I can give a dinner
party of two, without resorting to the usual fashion,
which is that when you are asked to dinner in camp
you bring your own knives, forks, plates, glass, and
generally your chair, your host supplying only the
table, food, and, if he is a very good manager and
very generous, drink. Of course as the country gets
more opened up, native traders will push forward,
and everything one can want will be procurable,
although, of course, at exorbitant prices; and even
now I hear almost anything can be bought at Quetta,
and a good number of things at Kandahar. My
establishment and kit are therefore constituted as
follows:—
- 1 General Man Servant,
- 3 Native Grooms,
- 3 Horses,
- 2 Tents,
- 2 Trunks,
- 1 Table,
- 1 Bed,
- 1 Chair,
Cooking Utensils and Plates, Glasses, Knives and
Forks for two. I have brought up with me a dozen
case of whiskey and two small boxes containing a
carefully selected assortment of stores to eke out the
[Pg 6]rations on the march. I have brought some soups,
some chocolate and milk, biscuits, sardines, macaroni,
tea, pickles and sauces. How far I shall be able to
get these three little boxes I don't know, but at the
worst they can easily be got to Quetta, and after that
must follow me as they can. On the whole, I am quite
satisfied with all my arrangements, especially with
my horses, which, if I can only land them safely at
Kurrachee (a very troublesome business) and get
them to the end of the Railway journey without
hurt, will, I think, turn out well, and I am sure I
hope so, as all one's efficiency and usefulness (to say
nothing of one's comfort and safety) depends on
being well mounted, and being able to move about
rapidly and see everything for oneself. My saddles
(each horse has his own) are all fitted with arrangements
for carrying coats, rugs, &c., &c., and extras
of all sorts, and during the march the horses I am
not riding will have to carry their own clothing, and
also that of the horse I ride and of the Syces (native
grooms). It will be quite a delightful change to
me, after eight years continuous office work day after
day from ten till five, to live an active life constantly
in the saddle and knocking about, and I feel sure the
change will be very good for me in every way. I
have brought with me a Persian Grammar and
Dictionary, and intend, when settled at Kandahar,
to work up a little Persian which might prove useful
to me some day or other. The last week at Bombay
was very busy, as, in addition to my preparation for
[Pg 7]a start, I wanted to keep up my work to the last,
and leave nothing unfinished, which I am glad to
think I did. I had farewell dinners to go to every
night, and indeed had not nights enough nearly to
enable me to accept all the invitations I received.
I must not forget to say that among other superfluities
which I have left behind me at Bombay, are
my razors and shaving brush, as I don't intend to
use either till I return to civilization. To-day is the
second day without shaving, and I am very glad to
feel that I have only men in the same stage as
myself to meet, as one feels very dirty and scrubby,
and will continue to do so for the next month at
least, especially as I have had my hair and whiskers
very well cropped, which, if not becoming, is
certainly very convenient.
On Saturday, the 27th,
at 6 o'clock, I went
down to the Dock to see my precious horses embarked,
and found Alfred Christopher had arrived
before me and was superintending their embarkation,
which we managed without any difficulty, and then
drove back to the Camp, where we breakfasted with
Colonel and Mrs. Wardrop, and at 10 a.m. embarked
in the Steamer "Umballa" for Kurrachee. At the
embarking place several of my friends had come to
see me off, and General Aitchison, Colonel Maude,
and Colonel Wardrop came off to the ship with me
and remained until we were going to sail. On board,
besides myself, there is Colonel Anderson, who commands
[Pg 8]one of the Native Infantry Regiments at Kandahar,
returning from sick leave in England; Captain
Cooke-Collis, who is going up as Brigade Major of
one of the Infantry Brigades; and a young gunner
called Fox going to join his Battery at Kandahar.
We can just make up a quiet rubber at Whist, which
is an advantage, as if we can we intend to travel together
all the way. There are only two steamers in
the week from Bombay to Kurrachee—one on Tuesday
which goes direct to Kurrachee in sixty hours (the
distance being under 600 miles), and the one leaving
on Saturday which calls in at four Ports on the way,
and takes seventy-two hours. We shall, therefore,
not be at Kurrachee till Tuesday in the forenoon,
not in time, I fear, to get off by that evening's train
for "Sibi." I was rather afraid we were going to
|By sea to Kurrachee.|
have bad weather, but it was very fairly smooth for
the first twelve hours after leaving Bombay, but
early this morning, Sunday, 28th March, the wind
freshened a good deal, and I found it difficult to get
through my dressing, and considered it advisable not
to attempt to come down to Breakfast, but to satisfy
myself with a frugal meal of toast and iced water on
deck. We have just been into the little Port of
Verawul where we dropped our mails and some
passengers (natives), and are now on our way to
another small place (Porebunder) where we shall be
in an hour or so. The sea is calmer again, I am glad
to say, so I have been able to manage to write. We
hear that the heat in Sind, and until one gets into the
[Pg 9]highlands near Quetta, is very great, or, at least, was
so by the latest accounts, but as it is still rather early
for very great heat even in those parts, I hope it may
have cooled down a bit before we arrive. I am a little
bit nervous for fear I should be stopped at Sibi to
superintend the forward movement of troops from
that place. General Burrows is now there, and has
been there for the last six weeks, and he may have
arranged to move forward on my arrival, leaving
me there till all the troops are passed (about a
fortnight later). I hope this will not be the case,
but I shall not be surprised if it is, as he has had
his share of the work there, especially as Sibi (pronounced
See-bee) is, I am told, the most awful place
for heat, flies, dust and wretchedness in the whole
country.
March 29th.
—Tolerably smooth sea, but very
warm; called in at a small Port called Mandavie
where we dropped a number of native passengers,
and took in several more. As the place is most
uninteresting, and the sun was very hot, we did not
attempt to land.
March 30th.
—A very rough time last night and
this morning, consequent on a strong head wind
and confused sea, and I was very glad when we
steamed into Kurrachee Harbour about 12 o'clock
noon. A telegram just received says I am to go
straight on to Kandahar.
[Pg 10]
Kurrachee, March 30th, 1880.
—On arriving at
Kurrachee the first object was to get the horses on
shore, which was very successfully managed, and we
had the satisfaction of seeing the whole lot safely
landed without any ill results from the Journey, or
the 18 hours of heavy weather which they had gone
through before reaching Kurrachee. Knowing that
William French was busy packing for a start with us
the following evening, I was anxious, if possible, to
avoid giving him the trouble of putting me up, so
went to the two hotels to try and get a room for the
night, but, failing to get into either, I had to drive
to William French's and ask shelter from him, and
found him in great confusion, but he was able to
give me an empty room in which I set up my camp
bed, table, and chair, and made myself very
comfortable. What I cared much more for than a
room for myself (viz., loose boxes for my horses), he
was able to give me, and this allowed of the poor
beasts getting a good roll and a rest after their 72
hours of standing on board ship, and preparatory to
36 very uncomfortable hours in the railway the next
day. The Royal Artillery Mess was close at hand,
so I had everything necessary in the eating and
drinking way without trouble. Kurrachee was less
hot than I expected to find it, and the night was
actually cold.
Leave Kurrachee.
Wednesday, 31st March.
—The journey from
Bombay to Kurrachee by sea may be looked on as
[Pg 11]the first stage on the way to Kandahar, the second
being the railway journey from Kurrachee to Sibi,
a distance of about 530 miles. Till quite lately only
a portion of this distance could be done by rail,
which last October only went to Sukkur, leaving 131
miles of desolate desert, for the most part, to be
traversed on horseback. In October last it was
decided to begin the railway to Kandahar, and the
work was put in the hands of Sir Richard Temple
(assisted of course by skilled engineers), who was
told that no money or exertions were to be spared
to complete the line as far as Sibi, so as to avoid the
awful journey of nearly 100 miles across a sandy
desert, without water and without shade. Owing to
the extraordinary energy displayed a feat was
accomplished which, I believe, has never been
approached; as a train drawn by an engine entered
Sibi, 131 miles from the junction with the old line,
in 101 days from the date on which the first sod was
turned, being at the rate of 1⅓ miles of line each
day. No one who has not had to cross the great
Cutchi Desert, which lies between Jacobabad and
Sibi, can, I believe, imagine what a terrible journey
it was, but the number of men and animals who
have died of thirst and heat in trying to cross it,
proves very clearly the horrors of the journey. Now
one goes through it in a comfortable first-class
carriage during the night, and the discomfort and
danger is a thing of the past. The train for Sibi
leaves Kurrachee at 6 p.m., at which hour our party
[Pg 12]of the "Umballa," reinforced by William French
and his horse, left for the second stage of our journey.
The evening and night was fairly cool, and we all
slept very well all night, having passed by Hyderabad
about midnight, and not waking until we were 200
miles on our way.
By rail to Sibi.
April 1st.
—We had a very fair breakfast at one
of the refreshment-rooms, and were fortunate enough
to have a moderately cool day. The railway strikes
the River Indus at Kotree, opposite Hyderabad, and
runs parallel with the river to Sukkur, about 10
miles short of which places, at a station called Ruk,
we turned off on to the branch line for Sibi, which,
passing through Shikarpore, reaches Jacobabad in
about 36 miles from the junction. The whole of
Sind, for want of water, is a desolate, dusty waste,
with but few trees, but the whole country covered
with a low underwood which would possibly be
green were it not for the heavy coat of dust which
is always on it. There is little or no cultivation,
except where water is obtainable from canals or
wells, and consequently there are but few houses or
villages, and one may go for miles without seeing a
living creature. Even birds seem to think Sind too
dreadful a place to live in. Shikarpore, which is
a very large village, is a remarkable place, as poor
and squalid as it looks it is inhabited by some of
the richest men in India, native bankers, who trade
with all parts of the world, having their correspondents
[Pg 13]in every great city in Europe, Asia, and
America; and in this dirty village, in the middle of
the jungles of Sind, an order for £1,000 could be
obtained on London, Paris, St. Petersburg, or New
York without the slightest difficulty. Shikarpore
used in past days to be the great mart to which all
the merchandise of Central Asia came, and from
there was passed on, on the backs of camels, to
Calcutta and Bombay, and from there to Europe and
America. A railway to Kandahar will, of course,
ruin Shikarpore, and even now it has begun to lose
its importance. 26 miles beyond Shikarpore we
came to Jacobabad (or the town of Jacob), so named
after General Jacob, an officer of the Bombay Army,
who, some 40 years ago, established a military
station at the place which was then known as Khanpur,
since which time 3 Native Cavalry Regiments and
1 Native Infantry Regiment has always been kept at
Jacobabad, as a frontier station, to keep the wild
tribes which live in the surrounding hills in order.
At Jacobabad we were met by the officer commanding
who had prepared dinner for us, which, with a
bottle of champagne, we found very refreshing, after
24 hours of dust and heat in the train. At half-past
eight o'clock, p.m., we started again, and nine miles
from Jacobabad entered on the Kutchi Desert which
proved on this occasion to be singularly cool and
pleasant, and we all slept with much satisfaction until
half-past four, a.m., on the 2nd April (Friday) when
we were woke up by the cry of "Sibi," "Sibi," to
[Pg 14]which we added "change here for Quetta and
Kandahar." It was quite cold when we arrived, and
we kept under our rugs and blankets until it began
to get light, when we turned out to collect our
things, and get the horses disembarked. The line
goes on to about 8 miles from Sibi to a place
called the Nari Gorge (you will see the Nari River
on the map), but as this would take us several miles
to the right of the direct road to Quetta, and into
very wild and dangerous country, travellers are
required to get out at Sibi and follow the more
circuitous route by the Bolan Pass to Quetta. The
|Sibi described.|
first view of Sibi is not exhilarating. Sandhills everywhere,
not a blade of grass, not a tree, and not a
drop of water. A few tents here and there, huge
piles of bags full of grain, a string of camels, or a
procession of creaking carts, drawn by two bullocks
each, make up a scene which, curious by itself, is
made still more odd by the sight of railway engines
moving about, and all the ordinary work of a railway
station going on, as it were, in the midst of a
desert. A little further on, at the back of one of
the sandhills, we came to the tent of my friend
General Burrows, who is commanding here, and
hospitably arranged to put up William French
and me, and feed us while we are here. I suppose
it is hardly necessary to say that putting up in this
part of the world does not mean a nicely furnished
bed-room and a comfortable sitting-room, and all the
luxuries of the season, but, even so, it means a good
[Pg 15]deal. First of all a tub of water and lots of soap,
a cup of tea, and a right to put your camp bed
either in the tent, or outside of it, according as the
night proves hot or cold. At present the heat at
Sibi during the day in tents is unbearable, and so all
the Europeans in the place congregate in a small
three-roomed shed, which has been built for the
purpose, and in which a rough kind of mess is kept
for all comers. I am writing in this place now
(as tents won't be possible till five o'clock in the
evening), and writing under the circumstances is not
very easy, which must be my excuse for any shortcomings
in to-day's portion of my journal. On
arrival here we heard that an officer had been set on
by a tribe, supposed up to this time to have been
friendly, and had been killed. This officer is Captain
Howe Showers, who was A.D.C. to his father,
General Showers, when I was A.A.G. at Calcutta, in
1865-66. It appears that he was passing through
a part of the country to the right of the road from
Sibi to Quetta, and thinking it quite safe had reduced
his escort from 50 Native Cavalry (of an
irregular levy he had just raised) to 12 or 15 men.
At a spot in the hills called Chappur the party were
fired on by a large party of men, who had up to
that moment been concealed in the rocks. At the
first volley Showers fell dead, as did also two of his
men, and the remainder immediately retired, which
could not be wondered at, seeing they were really no
better men (probably worse) than the much stronger
[Pg 16]party who were safely posted in the rocky gorge of the
mountain. We hear by telegraph from Quetta that
one of the
friendly native chiefs succeeded in securing
poor Showers' body and those of his two men, and
is bringing them into Quetta. An avenging force is
to-day being concentrated at Chappur to punish this
treacherous attack, and, I hope, will prove successful.
The operations along this country are in General
Burrows' hands, and he is proceeding there to-morrow,
and as he is receiving good reinforcements
from India, I have no doubt he will quickly mete out
the proper punishment to all concerned; though for
my own part, had I been commanding here, I think I
should not have allowed any attack to be made until
I had some artillery at my disposal, and then only
under my own command, or that of some selected
officer. I think the state of the tribes along these
Marri Hills is such as to cause some anxiety, as
though not powerful for real harm, they are
sufficiently strong to be very mischievous, and by
constant raids and attacks may succeed in frightening
away the workmen on the line of railway now being
pushed on from Nari Gorge through Hurnai to
Gwal. These places will be seen on the map, as also
a place called Thal, or Tull, which is one of the
positions which we hold in some strength. I may as
well mention that a very strong difference of opinion
exists among people who are in a position to judge
as to the proper line for the railway to take from
Sibi to Quetta—one side, led by Sir Richard Temple,
[Pg 17]have advocated the line by Nari (I see these places
are not marked on my map, but a place called
Baghao is in much the same line), Harnai, and Gwal,
in preference to the one through the Bolan Pass.
The former is shorter and easier in an engineering
point of view, but it is through a country which, if
not actually hostile, which many say it is, is certainly
unfriendly. The latter, on the contrary, has many
engineering difficulties, but is through a comparatively
safe country. The advocates of the former
route have carried the day, and I fear poor Showers'
death goes some way to prove that those who thought
the other route would be the best in the end were
not very far wrong. I am now sorry that I am not
to take General Burrows' place here, as I think there
will be a good deal to interest one in these parts for
some time. We have settled to march very early
to-morrow morning, and hope to get away from this
so as to be on our new ground and tents pitched
before the sun can make itself felt. The first four
days after leaving Sibi will be hot, but after that we
shall get into a more reasonable temperature. Our
route from here lies through Kirta, Beebee-Nani, and
Sir-i-Bolan, all of which are shown on the map I sent
two mails ago. (The figures on that map, under the
names of places, show their heights above the sea
level in feet).
Sibi—End of the railway.
Friday, 2nd April.
—At Sibi there are enormous
depots of all sorts of commissariat stores, provisions,
[Pg 18]and clothing, both for Native and English troops, all
of which have had to be transported great distances,
especially the grain and the clothing, as most of the
former comes from Bengal, and nearly all the latter
from England, or at nearest from Bombay. Thousands
of pounds of grain is daily used to feed the transport
animals who are in thousands—camels, horses, bullocks
(both for carts and packs), ponies and donkeys.
Besides these there are some 2,500 to 3,000 cavalry
and artillery horses, and about 1,000 horses, the property
of officers, to be fed every day, and as there is
little or no cultivation in Afghanistan, some idea may
be formed of the arrangements, the labor, and the
expense which are required to keep this one matter
of the forage supply in working order. Armies
fighting in Europe can expect to draw a good proportion
of their supplies from the country in which
they are operating, but the fact that almost nothing
required by European troops, and very few of the
articles required by native soldiers are to be got in
Afghanistan, renders a war such as that we are now
engaged in, a fearfully difficult and expensive matter.
We dined at the rough camp mess at Sibi at which
15 officers were present, and went to bed (in the open
air) at 9 p.m., as we had to be up at 1 o'clock to pack
our camels for a start at 2 a.m., as we proposed to
march 14 miles to Muskaff.
Preparations for marching.
Saturday, 3rd April.
—I was woke at 1 o'clock,
and after dressing almost in the dark began to have
[Pg 19]the camels loaded, but everything was against us.
First of all, for the 6 camels sent for mine and Wm.
French's baggage, only one camel driver appeared,
and he seemed perfectly ignorant of everything
connected with camels, and more especially with
that most delicate of arrangements, the loading of
a camel; and to make matters worse he proved to be
a wild villager from the neighbouring hills, whose
language we could not understand, nor could he
understand us. Then nearly all the ropes and
harness required for the pack saddles were wanting,
and the saddles themselves were of the most antiquated
patterns. After many delays these minor difficulties
were partially overcome, and after at least an hour
spent in vain attempts to load the 6 camels, we had
the proud satisfaction of seeing two of the lot ready
for a start, when a demon entered into the two
loaded animals, who rose from the ground (camels
sit down to be loaded) and kicked the whole of their
loads off. In the first instance this was rather
ludicrous, and we laughed at it, and began again;
but when 4 o'clock came, and daylight (which meant
intense heat) began to appear, and yet not one camel
could be induced to let the loads remain on their
backs, things looked serious, and we despaired of
getting off at all. However, we determined to
make one final effort, and this time were so far
successful that we made a start at 5 a.m., meeting
the rest of our party about a mile out of Sibi, and
heard to our distinct satisfaction that they had been
[Pg 20]equally unfortunate, and had only succeeded in
getting off after many failures. The only wonder
was that we got off at all, as it turned out that the
camels had only been purchased two or three days,
and were perfectly untrained. Our satisfaction at
effecting a move was but of short duration, as we
had not gone a mile before half the loads were on
the ground, and had to be repacked again and
again. The sun was by this time too high to allow us
to think of our completing the distance originally
intended, so at 8 o'clock we halted for the day on
the banks of the Nari River, where there is a depot
of transport animals to supply changes of bullocks
for the cart train which passes daily each way
between Sibi and Quetta. To carry this out there
are reliefs of bullocks every 6 or 7 miles, and the
arrangement works with wonderful regularity. We
could not afford time to march only 6 or 7 miles a
day, so could not avail ourselves of the cart train,
but are condemned to the daily trial of loading
camels, than which nothing is more trying to the
temper, I am bound to say. The transport officer at
the halting place was good enough to allow us to
share his hut, and so saved us going into tents in
which the thermometer during the day stood at 120
degrees, and even in our kind friend's hut was over
100 degrees, a heat which is required to be felt to be
understood, as the entire absence of air, except now
and then a hot blast, as if out of a furnace, made it
most oppressive. Towards 6 o'clock it grew wonderfully
[Pg 21]
|First halt on the march.|
cooler, and at 6.30, when we sat down to
dinner at a table placed in the open, it was quite
delightful. This was the first of our mess, and,
considering we were in the wilds, we did very well,
having some preserved soup, a leg of mutton, and
curry of sardines—I don't, however, recommend the
latter to anyone who is not very hungry and
hopeless of getting anything else—whiskey and
water—very little of the former, and a very bad
quality of the latter—completed the sumptuous
repast. Just as dinner was over a noise was heard
from the line of horses to which we all rushed to find
that Mr. "Selim" (who is a pugnacious sort of
gentleman) had drawn his picket pegs and was doing
his best to completely destroy poor "Rufus," who
being picketed was powerless to retaliate. For
about ten minutes we were afraid we should lose
"Selim" altogether, as the night was dark, and if
he had rushed away into the open plain we should
never have seen him again. Fortunately he was too
anxious to return to finish his fight with Rufus, and
we managed at last to catch him, neither horse
being, wonderful to say, anything the worse. The
fact is the horses are all quite wild after their long
confinement and want of work, and this is a thing
three or four heavy marches will all too quickly
cure. To pay him out for his games, I decided to
give "Selim" the pleasure of carrying me the first
ten miles the following morning, "Akhbar" bringing
me in the last five miles, and so giving "Rufus" an
[Pg 22]off day to allow him to recover the effects of his
bites. We turned into bed at 8.30, sleeping, as usual
in these parts, in the open air.
April 4th.
—After several false starts, and many
difficulties in loading the camels, we started at 3.15
a.m. for a 15 miles march, and as I wanted to inspect
the transport and commissariat depots at Muskaff, I
rode on in front with a couple of the men of my
escort (I have a native officer and 20 men of one of
our native cavalry regiments, the Poona Horse, as an
escort to Kandahar), and having a second horse for a
change half way had a very pleasant canter on
"Selim" (the first time I had ridden him), whom I
like very much indeed. The two colonels followed
at a quieter pace, leaving Captain Collis and Mr.
Fox to bring up the rear. It was a lovely morning,
and the road was very nice for cantering, and I
enjoyed the ride and the attending circumstances
very much. After inspecting at Muskaff, I got on my
arab ("Akhbar") and had a good opportunity of
trying his paces, which will be very good, but at
present he is quite raw and untrained, and gives one
plenty to do to watch his antics, which, however, are
all of the purest kind of play, as, like all well-bred
arabs, he is as gentle as possible. The latter part of
the march into Pir-Chokey was very dusty and
extremely uninteresting, and uncommonly hot. I
picked up the colonels (who had passed while I was
looking at the transport and commissariat depots at
[Pg 23]
|March into Pir-Chokey.|
Muskaff), about two miles from the end of the march,
which we completed at a quarter to 8 o'clock, but it
was past 10 when the baggage came up, the loads
having frequently been thrown by the camels during
the march, so our two young friends who were in
charge arrived thoroughly tired and done up. A
little tea and a rest, however, soon put them right;
and when at 6 o'clock in the evening, when the sun
was setting, we all got a plunge into the Bolan River,
which is a clear and extremely rapid running stream,
we found ourselves as fit as possible, notwithstanding
that the day had been even hotter than the previous
ones. Pir-Chokey is a station established by us
exactly at the mouth of the Bolan (N.B.—1st
syllable
short; 2nd long) Pass as a resting and
feeding place for the transport animals and troops
proceeding up and down. The Bolan Pass is the only
really practicable passage through the range of
mountains which separates India from Beloochistan
and Central Asia, and has been used for ages by the
caravans coming to India from all parts of Asia.
Until we went up by it to Kandahar in 1839, '40,
'41, the road was a mere track through the bed of
the river, and on that occasion we did very little to
improve it, and never dreamt that 40 years later we
should have to make a road practicable for wheeled
carriage through it; but this is what we have done,
and carts now run from Sibi to Quetta and still
further on the road to Kandahar. It must not be,
however, supposed that the road is of the appearance
[Pg 24]or quality that people at home would call a road, as
all that has been aimed at is to make a track clear
from stones or serious inequalities along which carts
can go. At Pir-Chokey are stored thousands of
pounds of grain of all sorts, flour, rice, sugar, tea,
potatoes, &c., &c., indeed everything required to
ration both man and beast, and many extras also, as
we were able to obtain from the Government stores
there, on payment, such things as Ropf's concentrated
soups, French preserved vegetables, &c., &c. There
is a shed for the use of officers and a couple for the
men, as there is at nearly all the stages in the Pass,
which is a very good arrangement, as it saves us
pitching tents, and the huts are much cooler than
tents during the day; and as dew or damp are
unknown here everyone sleeps in the open at
night. We were in bed at half-past 8, and I was so
dead tired that I never woke through all the row of
the packing, but had the satisfaction when I woke to
find the camels gone and everything packed. Captain
Collis, my Brigade Major, is very good in this way,
and does a great deal for me, which my orderly
officer would have to do if I had one, and as I might
have had, had General Warre been agreeable and
allowed me to take the officer I wanted.
March out of Pir-Chokey.
April 5th.
—As we had a very long march
(between 19 and 21 miles) we had to move off very
early, the more especially as I had two sets of depots
to inspect on the way; we had let the baggage have
[Pg 25]three hours start of us, having sent the native officer
and 16 men with it, keeping only 4 men for ourselves,
as we considered our five selves good for any number
of the cowardly marauders who hang about the Pass,
but who never seem to venture to attack armed
parties, but always to swoop down on one or two
unarmed natives if they get the chance. 500 yards
out of Pir-Chokey we had to ford the Bolan River,
and the winding course it takes may be imagined
from the fact that in the first 10 miles of the march
we forded it 18 times. It is, however, never more
than a couple of feet deep, and from ten to fifty
yards wide. The whole of the road from Pir-Chokey
to Dirwaza (78 miles) is called the Bolan Pass, and
most of the way is properly so called, though there
is a great plain of 20 miles across, which, though
surrounded in the distance by hills, has none of the
appearance of what one understands as a Pass. For
the first 12 miles the road is indeed a pass or
gorge in the mountains, as in places the cliffs
are not more than 60 to 100 yards apart, and
rarely open out to more than 150 to 200 yards
apart. Passing along this in the early morning
with the moon just setting is very striking and
dismal, as the hills, which are very peculiarly
shaped, are very high and abrupt, and are absolutely
bare of vegetation of any kind, except that the banks
of the river are here and there fringed with Pampas
grass and Oleanders, the latter just now in full blow,
and very sweet. It is quite the most desolate,
[Pg 26]forsaken scene I have ever witnessed, and the least
enlivening. It is fortunate that the tribes in the
vicinity of the Bolan Pass are fonder of rupees than
of fighting, as they could easily prevent anyone
passing up if they so desired it, but for a consideration
(a very heavy subsidy, I fancy) they agree
not only not to resist our advance, but to act as the
police of the Pass, and so enable us to dispense with
any great strength of soldiers here.—I must digress
for one moment to describe the circumstances under
which I write, so that allowances may be made for
bad writing and stupidity. First of all, I am in a
large tent, permanently pitched, as there is no rest
hut here (Beebee-Nani, April 6th), the thermometer
is at 96°, a gale of wind is howling outside, and
shaking the tent so violently that I watch the poles
with apprehension; everything is gritty with the
clouds of dust that are flying about; the flies, which
are in millions, I should say, are gifted with a
pertinacity which is quite marvellous, and insist on
settling on your nose, or in your eyes or ears; my
four companions are stretched on the ground fast
asleep (I never sleep myself in the day time), and by
some curious fatality have, one and all, established
themselves on their backs, and are snoring most
awfully; and last, but not least, the heat is making
the ink quite thick and preventing it running freely,
and with it my ideas also I fear. I think it will
be acknowledged that any one or two of these drawbacks
would be fair excuses for not doing much
[Pg 27]writing, so I hope the lot together will bear me
harmless from criticism now and hereafter.—To
return to my story now: As the sun began to rise
the whole scene changed, and what had seemed
weird and desolate now got a color that made the
scene one that I would not have missed for any
consideration; the effect altogether, of course, of the
beautiful coloring which sunrise always bring with
it in the East, but which rapidly fades as the sun
gets higher. At nine miles from Pir-Chokey I came
to one of the transport stages, which I found in
charge of a sergeant of the 66th Foot, with a guard
of 12 native soldiers; not another European within
ten miles of him on either side. He said it was, of
course, lonely, but he had lots to do, and that all his
spare time was given to fishing in the Bolan River,
which swarms with fish of the most confiding nature,
as they greedily seize any sort of bait, and can even
be caught in the hand at night by the use of a
light—a way of catching fish not quite unknown in
our own part of the world. Five miles further on
I inspected another depot, which is situated at the
end of the first part of the enclosed portion of the
|March into Kirta.|
Pass, after which we descended into the plain or
valley of Kirta, an extensive plain more than 20
miles across, and almost circular in shape, the
mountains rising to a considerable height all round
it. About six miles further ride brought us to the
rest house of Kirta, where we were to put up for the
day, and where, on arriving, I received the agreeable
[Pg 28]information that the camel carrying my two small
trunks, which contain every stitch of uniform,
clothing, linen, towels, sheets, socks, warm clothing,
&c.,&c., in fact, everything I possess, except what was
on my back, had fallen down in one of the fords, and
that the two portmanteaus had been well under
water for five minutes at least. The first and only
thing to do was to open the boxes and dry the things
(for which purpose there was no lack of sun, at any
rate), and ascertain the amount of the damage done.
Every single thing was more or less wet, but
fortunately, except my cloth uniform, my few books,
and my stock of writing paper, there was little to
spoil seriously; my patrol jacket had got off
wonderfully, having been well in the centre of one
box, and was only damp, and my other cloth things
had not much suffered, and the rest of the things
(except my paper, books, and papers, which are
ruined) will, I daresay, be all right after they have
been washed and done up. On the whole, I got off
wonderfully well, but it was a great business unpacking
everything, drying them, and then repacking
all again, which, however, I managed to do in a fairly
satisfactory way. At Kirta is another large depot
for the transport and commissariat departments, and
also a rather superior kind of hut for the accommodation
of passers by. The plain of Kirta itself is one
vast scene of desolation, not a tree, or a blade of
grass, and nothing but fine sand, thickly strewn with
round stones of all sizes and forms.
[Pg 29]
Dust storm at Kirta.
Monday, 5th April, continued
—At the Kirta
rest-house we found a very scientific party of
engineers (Mr. Molesworth, Col. Lindsay, and Major
Peters), who had been prospecting the railway line
to Kandahar, and were returning by no means
impressed with the delights, use, or value of
Afghanistan. I don't wish to form too hasty a
judgment, but I must say as far as I have gone
I have seen no reason to modify the opinions
formed eighteen months ago, namely, that a more
useless and unnecessary thing than an expedition
into this country could not be imagined. Committed
to it as we now are, a sudden withdrawal would be
madness, and in any case, it would be a wise man
who could form an idea as to the final results, or
what and when the end will be. Up to the present,
though the days have been intensely hot, the
nights have been very pleasant, and the mornings
charming, but at Kirta just as we were looking for
the change from the heat of the day to come (half-past
five o'clock), the wind suddenly chopped right
round and blew a hurricane, like a red-hot blast of a
furnace, bringing with it thick clouds of dust, which
made breathing, or keeping one's eyes open almost
an impossibility. Of course I have been in many
dust storms in all parts of India, but it has never
been my fortune to spend so entirely miserable a
time as we had to undergo between 5.30 on Tuesday
evening, and 8 o'clock the next morning. The
rest-house has no glass in the windows, and even
[Pg 30]had it been possible to close the wooden shutters,
they were so roughly made that they would have
been useless to keep out either the burning wind
or the dust; but even the wind and dust were
preferable to the suffocation of no air at all, and
so, through a very long dark night, we could do
nothing but toss about on our beds and long for
morning.
Tuesday, April 6th.
—About 3
A.M. the
hurricane seemed to moderate, so we got up and
dressed and set to work to pack our camels, in the
middle of which operation the gale recommenced
with greater force than ever, and made our work
almost impossible; however, by 4 o'clock, with
the assistance of some men from the transport depot
the work was finished and the camels with their
escort started for a nine mile march in the teeth
of the gale and dust. I waited on in the rest-house
till 6 o'clock in hopes of the weather changing when
the sun rose, but finding no change likely, had also
to face the dust and wind, and continued to ride
against it for about two hours, when, getting under
the shadow of a big mountain, we ceased to get the
dust and the gale grew much cooler, and to our great
|March into Beebee-Nani.|
relief we found a much more bearable climate at
our halting place, a little transport depot called
Beebee-Nani, where I am now writing. It cannot be
called pleasant here, but compared with the past 18
hours the change is distinctly for the better. Desolation
[Pg 31]reigns here also, no trees or vegetation to be
seen; nothing but sand, stones, and barren rocky
hills rising in tiers one behind the other, till the last
and highest range is barely visible in the hot and
dusty haze. At this halting place there is no rest-house,
but instead a good-sized tent, which answers the
purpose very well. A stream of beautiful clear water
flows past the tent, being brought in a small canal or
channel (made by our troops) from the Bolan River,
which is two miles off. The water is bright, and pure,
and good, and quite cold, and is accordingly in this
land of bad and scanty water a priceless luxury to
all. The hill tribes near this are not very well-disposed,
and they frequently cut off the water by damming
up the place where it leaves the river, but a
small party of native soldiers, who are at once sent
out, soon hunts the enemy off, and sets the water
flowing again. We are now beginning to ascend, and
it is decidedly cooler than it was (speaking comparatively),
but the air is unpleasantly dry and harsh,
and our lips and skin generally are suffering accordingly,
all the more, no doubt, that of late we have
been accustomed to the damp, relaxing climate of
Bombay. This morning we passed many of the
migratory tribes who, during the winter, leave the
districts round Quetta on account of the cold and go
with their flocks and herds down towards Sibi, where
they remain till it gets too hot, when they return to
Quetta. They are wretched-looking people, evidently
very poor in everything except children, of whom
[Pg 32]there seems to be no lack. Their whole household
goods are carried on camels, and the women and
children trot along behind seemingly very happy and
light-hearted. On one camel to-day we saw an uncommonly
pretty young donkey rolled up in a
blanket with his head only to be seen, looking quite
pleased with himself, and being balanced on the other
side of the camel by a jolly but extremely dirty
baby of 8 or 9 months old. They make very
picturesque groups these people, but certainly among
them the men carry off all the good looks, as the
women seem to be singularly plain and unprepossessing.
We are getting very bad hay for our horses
now, which is very unfortunate, but as it has all to
be brought from places miles away we ought, I suppose,
to be very thankful that we get any at all. So
far my three are very well, and I am quite pleased
with my new purchases, and very glad, indeed, that
I brought my old friend up with me, as he is a most
pleasant horse to ride. To give an idea of the sort
of country this is I may mention that the ground is
too hard to allow of our driving in even iron picketing
pegs for the horses, and we have therefore to collect
a heap of heavy big stones and fasten their picketing
ropes to these!
March to Mach.
Wednesday, 7th April.
—We had a very long
march before us (17 miles) to a place called Mach
(pronounced Much), so started off the heavier portion
of our baggage and all our servants in charge of
[Pg 33]half of my escort at 10 o'clock the previous night,
keeping only 2 camels to carry our camp beds and
bedding, and the warm sheets and rugs of the horses
we were to ride. We had a fairly good night's sleep,
although the high wind was not pleasant, and towards
morning became bitterly cold, for which some
of the party were not prepared, and were consequently
very cold indeed. I had my two thick
blankets, and found them nothing too much, although
12 hours previously we had been undergoing
a heat of nearly 100°. These changes are very
trying to people who are not thoroughly strong, but
barring slight colds all round, we have not suffered
on this occasion. Colonel Anderson's horse had hurt
itself, so I had to give him a mount on "Rufus,"
which, as he weighs 15 stone and the march was 17
miles, I would altogether have preferred not to do, but
as the alternative was his walking while I had 2 led
horses I could not possibly have done otherwise. The
road for the first 8 miles took us over a barren, desolate
plain, across which the cold wind whistled and
drove in a way that made us all wish much we had
kept our great coats out, and which made us hail
with delight the appearance of the sun, which up to
this had been our greatest enemy. Eight miles from
Bibi Nani we came to a small transport depot called
Abigoom, where I changed my horse "Akhbar" for
Selim, who had gone on with the heavy baggage the
night previously. Here Captain Collis, who had been
riding some way in rear, came up to tell me that
[Pg 34]one of my Syces (grooms) declared he was so
seriously ill that he could not possibly go on, even
though he knew that if left behind by himself on the
side of the road he would probably be murdered by
some of the ruffians who hang about to wreak their
vengeance on any one who is defenceless. Fortunately
I was able to get a cart and pair of bullocks
at the transport depot at Abigoom, and we went back
and picked the man up and brought him into Mach,
and he is all right to-day. I don't think there ever
was much the matter with him beyond having eaten
too much, which these people, now that they are fed
by us and not by themselves, are very ready to do.
The morning, once the sun was up, was most enjoyable,
although the country we passed through was of
the same desolate, dreary sort that is met in this part
of the world. Brown arid mountains and red clay
plains covered thickly with enormous boulders; no
trees, no water (except when now and then we cross
the Bolan River), no habitations, and no cultivations.
As a sergeant of the 66th, who was in charge of
one of the transport depots, said to me, "Why, sir,
there are no birds in this awful country, and when I
see a country as has no birds I think badly of that
country." The poor fellow's views of life and of the
pleasures of campaigning had been jaundiced I fancy
by a lonely residence for 4 months in a desert without
a single European near him, although he said on
the whole he did not dislike it, as he had heaps to do
all day, and the nights were much too short for the
[Pg 35]amount of sleep he would like to have had. Ascending
gradually from Abigoom we reached an elevation of
3,500 feet at Mach, and found ourselves in an European
climate, which Captain Collis and I celebrated
by drinking hot whiskey punch for dinner!! Mach
|Receive English letters at Mach.|
is quite a big place, and there is a post office and
telegraph office there, and a good rest house, and we
spent a very comfortable time there, especially when
we recollected the disagreeables of the previous days.
We were able to replenish our larder and stores
from the Commissariat, getting from them bread,
mutton, tea, sugar, potatoes, preserved soups, &c., &c.
To my great delight I got my English letters here,—those
of the 12th March, which had reached Bombay
30th March,—and we posted our letters for home, as,
although it was a little too early, it was our only
chance, as there is no other post office till we get to
Quetta, and the English mail will have left that place
before we arrive. As the next day's march was not
a long one we decided to have a good sleep, and
not start till 4
A.M. (which meant getting up at 3
o'clock), and as we all turned in at half-past 8, we
had had a very fair night of it, when at 3
A.M. on
Thursday, April 8th, I was woke by Colonel Anderson
with the extremely unpleasant news that the
native officer of the escort reported that the whole
of our camel drivers had disappeared—run away to
their homes it was supposed. The question was
what was to be done, as we had no wish to lose
a day at Mach, so I sent and woke up the transport
[Pg 36]officer (a smart young fellow of the 15th Foot), who
before I at all expected it, was in the rest-hut fully
dressed, asking to see "the General," who being
extremely cold was quite invisible among his blankets.
I had a further search then made for the camel
men, but it was clear they had bolted, so I was forced
very unwillingly to take advantage of my being "the
General Sahib," and take carts to take us into
Quetta. Carts are not, as a rule, given to officers, as
they are used for Commissariat stores, and so up to this
time I have resisted the temptation of appropriating
some (they are far pleasanter means of carrying baggage
than camels), not wishing to have any advantages
over other officers, especially at the expense of
the General Transport Service; but now that the camel
men had deserted I felt I might fairly take carts, as
it was clearly not advantageous that I should remain
idle for days at a place like Mach. I, however, kept
the demands of my friends and my servants as low as
possible, and we succeeded in getting off without reducing
perceptibly the carrying power of the transport,
or causing any stores to be delayed. Carts
drawn by bullocks are very slow, as they barely do
more than 1¾ miles an hour, but they are very sure
and steady, and require no elaborate packing as
camels do. On the other hand they are very liable
to break down or to fall over the precipices, so their
possession is not an unalloyed satisfaction. On the
whole I think if I had good camel men I would prefer
camels. At Mach we found a Major Greig of the
[Pg 37]Artillery, trying to work his way up alone, taking
advantage of any convoys or escorts he could meet,
and as this was very dismal and very slow, I asked
him to join our party, which now numbers 6. It
was 5 o'clock when we succeeded in getting away
from Mach, and it was then so cold that I rode the
first half of the way in my great coat. The road was
very up and down, and at places very steep, but still
wonderfully good; the country still as barren and
uninteresting as ever. Four miles from Mach we
came to a place called Sir-i-Bolan, which means the
head or source of the Bolan, and here are the springs
from which the river rises. They rush out of the
solid rock in a splendid stream, but curiously one of
the jets is distinctly some degrees hotter than the
others are.
Maidenhair Fern—Sir-i-Bolan.
Thursday, 8th April.
—The place (
i.e. Sir-i-Ab)
is covered with Maidenhair Ferns, a piece of which
I enclose; I have also taken a root of it, and intend
to send it to Florence to see if she can force it back
into life, as a plant of Maidenhair Fern from the
source of the Bolan would be a kind of curiosity, I
dare say.[
Footnote.—The Fern mentioned above is now in the Stove House at Narrow
Water, and has grown to quite a large healthy plant.] After passing Sir-i-Bolan, the road led
through a very narrow valley, with high and precipitous
cliffs on both sides, quite overhanging the
road, and not more than 50 yards apart at some
places. The effect is wild, and the morning air
[Pg 38]being sharp and fresh, with a bright sun, the ride
was quite enjoyable. Our halting place for the day
was Dozan (or the place of thieves), which is a good
sized Commissariat and Transport Station, possessing
a good rest-house and quite a large number of
people of sorts. There is not, however, naturally
any water here, but we have brought it by an
aqueduct from some spring 2 miles off, and there is
now a plentiful and excellent supply—the last
really good water we shall see for some days. This
station is in charge of a very nice young fellow of
the 83rd, named Adye, quite a boy, but a very
good style of fellow, and one who does his work well,
as his bullocks, carts, and everything in his charge
shows. The life these young fellows lead does not
seem very delightful, but it is wonderful how clearly
one can see which are the really good officers who
take interest in their work, and have no time or
inclination for grumbling about themselves, and I am
delighted to say the great majority are of this sort,
indeed it is the exception when the reverse is the
case, and as the same can truly be said of the
Sergeants similarly employed (all quite young men),
I don't think the army is going to the dogs quite so
much as dismal prophets would have us think. It
is also most satisfactory to see how well our native
soldiers (non-commissioned officers and men) on this
detached and independent employment get on, as
they develope in intelligence and readiness in a
remarkable way, and show that what they really
[Pg 39]want (as do our English soldiers) is less nursing and
coddling, and care, and being made at all times to
do more for themselves than they now are.
Dozan—Cantonment—Abandoned.
Friday, 9th April.
—After starting off our baggage
we took a detour to the right to visit a plateau
about 1,000 feet higher than Dozan, where, during
last summer, General Phayre's brigade had been encamped,
and where, thinking the place would become
a permanent station, he had expended much labor
and trouble in making roads and laying out the
future cantonment. Now, however, the troops are
withdrawn and the place is deserted. Among other
things which had been made was an excellent lawn
tennis ground which looked very English and civilized
in the midst of the desolation. At this place are the
springs from which the halting place is supplied with
water, and here, as elsewhere in this extraordinary
country, it is wonderful to see the rush of water
which pours out of the solid rock, reminding one (all
the surrounding circumstances having also a considerable
similitude) of the water rushing out of the
Rock when struck by Moses during the travels of the
Israelites in the Wilderness. We rejoined the road
about 4 miles from Dozan, and for 4 miles our way
continued through the narrowest and wildest part
of the Bolan Pass, till at 8 miles from Dozan we
crossed an abrupt ridge of hills which lie across the
mouth of the Pass, and descended into a plain surrounded
by mountains the tops of which were still
[Pg 40]tipped with snow. Two miles farther on we came
to our halting place, which is called Darwaza, or the
door or gate, this being the entrance to the Bolan
Pass, the journey through which we had then completed.
There was a good rest-house at Darwaza,
and a small fort, inside of which we were glad to find
shelter for our horses and servants, as a piercingly
cold wild wind was coming from the mountains, and
there were decided threatenings of snow or rain, and
very shortly after we arrived it did begin to rain. I
had an anxious day with my Australian horse as he
was very ill, and, being almost without medicines, I
was afraid I should have lost him. He had not taken
at all to the bad grass or hay which we have had
through the Pass, and had not been really well for
some days. This was what I feared in bringing him
with me, as Australian horses are notoriously dainty
about their food, whereas Arabs eat anything and
seem to flourish on anything. We tried all the
native remedies at our disposal, and the old horse
pulled through all right, and before night was able
to eat a bran mash and was quite out of danger.
He has, however, got a cracked heel, the result of
the cold dry wind after crossing the numerous fords
which we have had to pass over daily, and I fear I
shall not get much riding out of him, which is a
disappointment, as he is a steady old boy who goes
along without any trouble, while the other two are
young and foolish, and as yet not contented to plod
along at a walking pace for any time. The evening
[Pg 41]at Darwaza turned out very wet and cold, and the
night threatened to be so bad that we had to give
up the idea of an early march which we had intended
to make, so as to get over the long and wearisome
journey which lay between us and our next halting
place. Darwaza is one of the highest points on the
road to Kandahar (the highest except the crossing of
the Khojak Pass), being 6,000 feet above the sea
level, and until a month ago the whole country round
had been covered with 18 inches of snow, some of
which still remained on the mountains near.
March across the Dusht-i-Bedaulat Plain.
Saturday 10th April.
—We started at 6 a.m.
to march to Sir-i-ab, to reach which place we had to
cross a great plain (16 miles across) which, owing to
its miserable and wretchedly desolate appearance, is
called the Dusht-i-bedaulat (the au has the sound of
ow) or the plain of poverty or wretchedness, and
certainly it well bears out its name, as for mile after
mile nothing is to be seen but sand and stones, and
desolation everywhere. No one lives in the place,
and no one crosses it except when obliged to do so,
as almost always a howling wind, which is either hot
as a furnace or cold as ice, drives across it, carrying
clouds of dust with it, and making the journey not
only wretched but even, to weakly people and
animals, dangerous. There is no water from Darwaza
to Sir-i-ab, a very serious consideration in the
hot weather. We, however, were singularly fortunate,
as the storm of the previous day had spent
[Pg 42]itself, and the rain had laid the dust, and we crossed
the Dusht without the slightest inconvenience,
indeed with some enjoyment, as the morning was
lovely and fresh, and the mountains covered with
the snow, which had fallen in the night on their
higher peaks, were looking beautiful, and took away
in a great degree from the otherwise desolate appearance
of the scene. As we approached Sir-i-ab, we saw
more signs of civilization (though of a very rude kind)
than we had met since we left Jacobabad, as there
were numerous villages to be seen, each surrounded
by its orchards, containing peach, plum, and mulberry
trees, which were all in full leaf, and looked
green and bright to us who had not seen a patch of
green for so many days. At Sir-i-ab we put up in a
deserted village, in which was established our
Commissariat and Transport Depot, and a few
houses which were set apart and kept clean for the
use of officers and men passing through. The people
to whom the village belong had migrated to the
lower regions during the winter, and were now on
their way back, and had sent word that after the
middle of this month they would require the place
for their own residence, and we were, in consequence,
clearing out our Commissariat Stores and Transport
animals into a camp outside the village. Although
the people had left the village for their own convenience,
as they would have done whether we had
been there or not, we had actually been paying them
rent for the empty houses, and now at their request
[Pg 43]were quietly submitting to be turned out. This is
the curious way we make war, and add to the
terrible expenses of it quite unnecessarily. An
Afghan village is a collection of mud huts, with flat
mud roofs, and so arranged, and the huts joined
together with high walls, as to form a kind of Fort,
as in this country every man's hand is against his
neighbour's, and every one goes armed and prepared
for treachery and violence. The people are a
distinctly warlike race, and fight bitterly among
themselves.
March into Quetta.
Sunday, 11th April.
—A short march of 7 miles
took us into Quetta, which looked charming as we
rode into it at 8 o'clock in the morning, the air
bright and fresh, and the sun shining just sufficiently
to take the sharpness out of the air. There were
quantities of purple crocuses in flower, and the
hawthorn was covered with flower and looked very
home-like indeed. Quetta lies in a small circular
plain about 5 miles across, surrounded by high
mountains, and well watered by streams of clear
water which come down from the mountains and
enable the people to cultivate their orchards and
fields most successfully. Originally there was only
a moderately sized native town at Quetta, with,
from a native point of view, a very strong Fort to
defend it; but since we have occupied the place
(now some 4 years ago) houses after the English
fashion have sprung up, and the place is assuming
[Pg 44]the appearance of an Indian Station. We have
taken over the Fort and use it as an Arsenal, for
which purpose it serves sufficiently well, though it
would be quite useless as a Fortification against any
enemy who possessed guns of any kind. The native
name of Quetta is Shawl or Shalkot, and it is by the
latter name that natives generally know it. It is
not in Afghanistan, but belongs to the Khan of
Khelat, who has lent it or ceded it and the surrounding
country temporarily to us on the understanding
that we pay him as much revenue as he used to get
out of it, which we find we can do, and have a good
balance for ourselves without oppressing the people
in any way, which shows that the Khan must have
been very much cheated by his officials formerly.
We have established a regular civil government, and
administer the country exactly as if it were India.
The civil authorities of course say the people like
our administration, but I confess I doubt it, as they
are a very independent lot, and prefer, I think,
injustice and oppression from their own people than
justice and order after an English pattern. The
revenue is paid in a very primitive manner still in
these parts; one-sixth of the whole produce of the
land goes to the Government, and as soon as a field
of wheat or an orchard of peaches is ripe, and the
crop collected, Government officials go and put on
one side what they consider the Government share,
which is then sold by auction, the farmer taking
away the remaining five-sixths; and I am told the
[Pg 45]system works well, and there is very seldom any
attempts to cheat the Government of their dues.
There is a club at Quetta, of which we were made
honorary members, and where we lived during our
stay. The club has managed to get up a capital
library, and have all the English and Indian papers
and most recent telegrams, so we felt quite back in
civilization again after our wanderings in the deserts
and wilds of the Bolan Pass.
Visit to hospital at Quetta.
April 11th & 12th.
—The chief civil authority at
Quetta is Sir Robert Sandeman, who has an extremely
nice house, very well furnished, and will
eventually have very nice gardens and grounds round
it. He asked me to go and put up with him, but as
we had agreed not to break up our party while at
Quetta, but to keep together, I refused his invitation,
but dined with him one night. He is a great supporter
of the policy of pushing forward our frontier
into Afghanistan, and interfering in the internal
arrangements of that country, and as I think we
have gone much too far in that direction he and I
had a good deal of warm discussion. I went with
him to the hospital to see the 2 native soldiers who
were wounded when Captain Showers was killed, and
I heard from them the whole particulars of the
catastrophe. It appears that poor Showers (whom I
have known well for many years) was warned by
some friendly native chiefs not to take the road he
did, but he told them an Englishman never turned
[Pg 46]back, and he would not do so. He had only 12 or
14 men, all natives, with him, and at a very narrow
gorge in the mountains, through which the road
passed, they came upon a party of some 30 or 40
men posted up among the rocks in a position quite
inaccessible from the road. These men received
|Account of attack on Captain Showers.|
Showers' party with a volley which killed him and a
couple of his men. There was some desultory fighting
between the rest of the escort and the enemy,
but the unfortunate escort without their officer and
down in the valley mounted could do nothing, and
so the remnant had to retire, leaving 3 or 4 dead,
and the two wounded men I was talking to, on the
ground. The men told me that poor Showers' death
must have been instantaneous, as he was hit by 3
bullets at the same minute, and never spoke or
groaned. Sir Robert Sandeman said to one of the
men who happened to be a sergeant, that he was glad
to see he was getting better, and adding "you see
your fate is good" (N.B.—This is a kind of usual
expression when a person has been fortunate, as all
Mohammedans are great believers in "Kismet" or
fate), on which the poor fellow, with tears in his
eyes and with wonderful energy and spirit, said,
"Ah, Sahib, don't say that; don't say my fate is
good, for I am filled with shame to think that my
Sahib is dead and I am alive. It is a great shame
to me that I am alive; my fate is bad." It was
very touching, and there was no doubt of the man's
sincerity and honesty, as we who heard him could
[Pg 47]testify to. What he said loses greatly by translation,
and by not being heard, but it was really a most
impressive sight. This wild Beloochie, with his long
black hair all about his face, which was quite pale
from pain and loss of blood, getting, in his excitement,
on his elbow as he lay in his bed and speaking
with the greatest earnestness, and then falling back
on his pillow quite overcome with weakness and
agitation. The men all liked Showers greatly, as his
pluck and dash appealed to their feelings strongly.
This man was the senior of the party, and he told
me he said to Showers that he had better not go by
that route, but that the Sahib only laughed and
asked him if he was afraid. I asked him what he
did then, and he said "Oh, the Sahib was only
joking; he knew I was not afraid; but I wanted to
save him, but of course, as he was determined to go
on, we said nothing more." When the rest of the
party retired, the enemy came down and stripped
the two wounded men of all their clothes, except
their linen shirts and drawers, and there they lay for
2 nights in the piercing cold. This man said, "Oh,
Sahib, it was so cold and I had such pain, I prayed
all night to God, and said 'let me die,' but God
would not let me die, and here I am. No, my fate is
not good!!!" It is a long story, but I tell it to you to
show the sort of fellows many of our native soldiers
are, men that anyone might be proud to serve with.
For myself I would go into action with our native
troops without a hesitation (especially men of certain
[Pg 48]races), assured of their fighting well and gallantly.
This man of whom I have been telling you was a
countryman of the people who killed Showers, and
yet he was perfectly loyal, even to losing his own
life, in the service he had taken. There is no doubt
Showers ought not to have gone the way he did,
and in no case ought he to have gone so weakly
escorted. His body was recovered, and he is buried
at Quetta, and punishment has been awarded to the
men who attacked him.
Tuesday, April 13th.
—We left Quetta on our
first march out to Kandahar at ¼ to 6 a.m., having,
I am sorry to say, left behind at Quetta Captain
Cooke-Collis, who was ordered by a telegram, that
was awaiting him at Quetta, to remain there until
the arrival of General Phayre, whose staff officer he
is to be. We were very sorry to lose him, as he is a
pleasant companion, active, energetic, and most
obliging. I was in hopes that he was to be my
Brigade Major, which he wished to be, so the
arrangement now made is a disappointment to us
both. As the country between Quetta and Kandahar
is more or less disturbed, and the tribes along
the route are not friendly, I thought it well to
increase my escort, so have added to it half a
company of Infantry who will furnish sentries at
night and guard the baggage on the road, while the
Cavalry escort will accompany me. With our 5
selves and ½ troop of Cavalry and ½ company of
[Pg 49]Infantry, I feel quite safe, and only fear we won't be
given a chance of exchanging compliments with the
tribes on our route. A wing of the 30th N.I. is one
march ahead of us, and the 7th Fusiliers escorting
£100,000 of treasure leave Quetta to-morrow, so they
will be one march behind us, so we have plenty of
troops on the road.
April 21st.
—It is more than a week since I have
been able to write up my journal, as I have, I may
say, hardly been out of the saddle since the 16th, and
have slept in my clothes for 4 nights.—April 13th,
continued.—Metarzai, the first march out from
Quetta, is a wretched place, nothing but sand and
stones, no rest-house, so we had to pitch tents for the
first time, and found them very hot during the day-time.
The water was far from good.
March to Dina-Kharez.
April 14th.
—Marched to Dina Kharez, a word
which signifies "bitter waters," and most richly the
place has earned its name, as more disgusting water
I never tasted. Our party is a singularly temperate
one, and we all prefer cold tea to any drink, but
here it was quite impossible to drink the tea, as the
water is quite salt, and tea made of it bore a most
painful likeness to a black draught, or the senna and
salts of one's youth.—By the way, why is it that the
children of the present day have not to drink the
great big tumblers full of senna and salts which we used
to have periodically!—The road between Metarzai
[Pg 50]and Dina-Kharez (distance 12 miles) is, as usual, very
uninteresting, except that it crosses what is called
the Ghazerbund Pass, a moderately high range of
hills, with an ascent and descent of about 700 to 800
feet. There was a rest-house at Dina-Kharez, but we
all (including the horses) suffered much inconvenience
for want of some decent water.
April 15th.
—Marched to Segi (10 miles) the
country still most uninteresting and desolate, no inhabitants
and no cultivation. The heat in the day-time
is very considerable, and we are all very glad
when evening comes. We always dine outside in
the cool, and at Segi we very nearly lost our dinner,
as the soup, which is the great stand by, had just
been placed on one of our rickety camp tables, when
2 great bull dogs who belong to members of our
party, thought fit to commence a most violent fight
under the tables and chairs which were scattered in
all directions. Fortunately we managed to snatch
the dishes off first, and so saved our dinner. I may
as well here give the routine of our days, which are
one just like another. We are woke at 4 a.m., dress,
pack up our beds, tents, &c., &c., put them on the carts
or camels, placing materials for breakfast on a pony, as
he travels much faster than camels.—March at 5 a.m.,
and are generally in at 8 a.m. Shortly after the pony
comes up with some servants, and we have a pic-nic
breakfast; about the time it is done the baggage comes
in, and tents are pitched and boxes opened, and we
[Pg 51]dress and wash, read, write and talk till 5 o'clock,
when we go out for a stroll and visit the horses, &c.
Dinner at 6, and we are all fast asleep at ½ past 8.
March to Gulistan Kharez.
Friday, 16th April.
—Marched to Gulistan
Kharez (10 miles) through the usual uninteresting
desert, but the place itself, which literally interpreted,
means "place of roses," is much better than
any place we have been at yet on this side of Quetta,
as there is plenty of good water (a bright flowing
stream), and a few trees. Here there is in course of
completion, what there ought to be at each of the
stages, a small fort and enclosure for the commissariat
stores. The fort would be quite sufficient to
resist any attack the Afghans (without artillery)
could bring against it, but to my surprise I found it
had no gate or no means of closing the entrance.
The engineer officer in charge of all the works on
the road happened to be at Gulistan, and I sent for
him and told him that I did not at all like the state
of things, and that he must, at any cost, make a gate
or other arrangement. The difficulty was getting
wood, of which there is none in this desolate wilderness.
As a makeshift I caused the native officer in
command of the post to be shown how to make a
temporary barricade with carts and sand bags, and
so to secure himself against a sudden rush. I dare
say at the time I was thought a desperate nuisance
and over particular, but if that was the idea then
the next day's events quite altered their opinions.
[Pg 52]
Saturday, April 17th.
—Marched to Killa
Abdoola, which is 11½ miles from Gulistan, and 5
miles from the foot of the Pass across the Khojak
range of mountains which are there 7000 feet high.
We got to the end of our march about half-past 8
o'clock, and about 10 o'clock, as we had just finished
breakfast, the telegraph clerk (there is a telegraph
office here) brought me an urgent message from
General Phayre, who was at Chaman, on the other
side of the Khojak range (16 miles off), to say that
disturbances, the extent of which he did not yet know,
had broken out between Chaman and Kandahar, and
that all communication with Kandahar was closed.
He asked me to come to him at once. Our baggage
animals having only just completed 11 miles, and the
heat being very great, it was clear the whole party
could not go on, so I decided to ride forward myself,
accompanied only by one officer and 5 native cavalry,
leaving all my baggage behind. Major Greig, of the
R. A., having a fresh horse, I selected to go with
me, and we started at 11.30 to ride across the Khojak
|Forced ride on to Chaman.|
to Chaman. The Pass is a very narrow and
difficult one, offering many opportunities for organised
resistance or ambushes, but I thought on the
whole it was better for me to take quite a small
escort, as if the Pass was held the whole of my escort
could not have forced it, and if there were only a few
of the enemy about we had a better chance to pass
through unobserved going a small party. The
proceeding was a little risky, and had it not been
[Pg 53]successful would have been disapproved, I dare say;
but for myself, I confess I never expected to meet
resistance, as I knew General Phayre's account of
the disturbances were not at all likely to suffer by
emanating from him, as he is a man of extremes, and
I thought it quite possible that things were not as bad
as they seemed. The road from Killa Abdoola to the
foot of the Pass is through the bed of a mountain
torrent, the low hills on either side being too far off
to afford cover for anyone trying to hold the Pass.
The ascent to the mouth of the Pass is quite gentle,
and then it rises in very steep gradients 2,500 feet.
We have made an excellent zig-zag road up one side
and down the other, and the view from the top is
very extensive and curious. About ¼ to 3 I rode
into Chaman, having come across under 3 hours,
which was not bad, as the cavalry soldiers I had
with me had already done 11 miles more, and I had
to save their horses in case of necessity either for a
charge or a bolt on the road. I found General
Phayre much exercised in mind, and greatly impressed
with the fact that there was a
general,
not a
local, hostile movement against us. His
information came from Quetta from Sir R. Sandeman,
who is not, I think, as a rule very dependable in his
news. However, of one thing, there was no doubt
that there had been, the night before, an attack in
force on a small commissariat depot about 26 miles
from Chaman, and that there an officer and 17 or 18
men (principally commissariat servants) had been
[Pg 54]killed, and that another depot, 16 miles from
Chaman, had been partially looted, but no one killed.
To this depot, named Gatai, General Phayre had
sent on a wing of a native regiment, and had a
troop of native cavalry ready to go with me if I
would go on at once there, and then act as I
thought best, but he recommended my waiting at
Gatai until he sent me as reinforcements 2 guns of a
mountain battery, and a couple of hundred of the
7th Fusiliers. Of course I was all anxiety to get on,
so, borrowing horses from the native cavalry for
Major Greig and myself, we started again an hour
after we had reached Chaman, escorted by the troop
of native cavalry. The distance between the 2
|Push on to Gatai.|
places is 17 miles, and the road lies over a stony,
sandy plain, without a village or a living being to be
seen. I pushed on as fast as I could, as I wanted, if
possible, to get to Gatai and see all the necessary
arrangements for the defence of the post made before
dark. On arriving, I found that all had been done
by the officer in command which was possible, but
the means at his disposal were very limited, and so
had been his time. He had, however, closed up the
greater portion of the entrance with bags of grain,
and had raised the walls in a temporary fashion by
laying along them rows of grain bags and making
temporary loop holes. The necessary sentries and
picquets were posted, but the night passed quietly,
all of us, however, sleeping in our clothes. I had no
luggage, clothes, or bedding, except the breeches,
[Pg 55]and boots, and Norfolk jacket I stood in, but the
officers made a subscription of blankets for me; and
one young fellow insisted on my sleeping on his
camp bed, which unwillingly I had to do, he was so
kindly urgent about it.
Sunday, April 18th.
—Before continuing my
story it will be as well to explain that between the
Khojak Pass and Kandahar, the road is divided into
6 stages, as follows:—
1st. | Chaman, |
at foot of the Pass. |
2nd. | Gatai, |
17 miles from Chaman. |
3rd. | Dubbrai, |
10 miles from Gatai. |
4th. | Mel Kharez, |
12 miles from Dubbrai. |
5th. | Abdool Rahmon, |
12½ miles from Mel Kharez. |
6th. | Mandi Hissar, |
14 miles from Abdool Rahmon. |
7th. | Kandahar, |
11 miles from Mandi Hissar. |
At each of these places there is a small enclosure,
it cannot be called a fort, in which the commissariat
stores are placed. General Stewart refused to garrison
the smaller of these with our troops, but left
them in charge of native levies who the civil authorities
assured him were perfectly trustworthy. The
value of this opinion has been very conclusively
shown by the events of the past week. Each enclosure
or fort is like the other, except in size, some
[Pg 56]being larger than others. They are of the following
shape:—
General Phayre (leaving me, however, full powers
to act as I thought best) suggested to me that it
would be better to wait at Gatai till the guns and
the European troops reached me, but on reflection I
came to the conclusion that to leave Dubbrai unoccupied,
and the dead unburied a moment longer
than could be avoided, would have the worst effect,
and that it was quite worth risking something to
obviate this, so, as soon as it was light, I issued orders
(I may mention for my soldier and sailor brothers'
information that I have throughout given each
person distinct and plain written orders, so that
everyone knew exactly what to do, and once I issued
an order I never changed it) for reconnoitering
parties of cavalry to proceed to Dubbrai and the
hills to our right front, while I pushed on a detachment
of native infantry, with a few cavalry, to re-occupy
[Pg 57]Dubbrai. I, of course, left a sufficient force
at Gatai to hold it, instructing the officer in command
to strengthen the defences and keep a good
look out. I did not, I confess, expect opposition,
and was not therefore surprised to find, when I
followed the main body with a small cavalry escort,
that they had found Dubbrai empty, except of dead
bodies, and seen none of the enemy on the road. We
found in and around the Fort 30 dead bodies and 1
wounded man, who told us he was a Ghazi (fanatic),
from Khelat-i-Ghilzi, and that there were plenty more
of them coming. The men were most anxious to shoot
the wretched creature, and I think the officers generally
thought it would have been right to do so, but of
course I forbid anything of the kind, and ordered him
medical aid, and such food and drink as we had at our
disposal. I am bound to say he was not a bit grateful,
but regularly spit at us and defied us. He died the
next day, which was quite the best thing he could
|Account of the Dubbrai Attack.|
have done. Among the dead we found and recognized
poor Major Waudby's body, which I buried near
the place he fell, reading the funeral service myself
as the best and greatest mark of respect I, as commanding
the force, could give to as gallant a soldier
as ever lived. Poor fellow, he had warning full 8
hours before the attack, and could easily have evacuated
the place, but knowing the country and
natives well, he knew what an evil effect it would
have if it was known a Sahib had shown fear, and so
he clearly elected to accept, one may say, certain
[Pg 58]death, rather than discredit his name. He had only
2 sepoys of his own regiment with him, all the rest
being helpless unarmed servants of his own and the
commissariat establishment. He must have fought
splendidly, as the enemy themselves acknowledge
that they had 16 killed and 18 wounded, which was
very good shooting. Nearly everyone we saw of the
enemy was shot right through the head, so poor
Waudby must have been as cool and collected as if
he had been shooting pheasants. His 2 sepoys died
with him, and were found beside him. We also
found his dog sitting by his body refusing to be
moved. The poor dog had 2 terrible sword cuts on
his back, but is recovering, and will be sent home to
Mrs. Waudby. While at Dubbrai I received a despatch
from Kandahar, saying that they had sent out
troops from there to open the road up to wherever
they met us, and the officer in command sent me
word that no resistance had been offered and I could
march on in the ordinary way. I at once sent back
to Chaman and countermanded the move of the
guns, and gave the necessary orders for the improving
of the defences of Dubbrai, and at the same time
wrote to Kandahar to General Primrose, recommending
that I should remain a few days in the
neighbourhood with a force of cavalry, artillery and
infantry, and that I should march through all the
disaffected districts, as I believed this course necessary
and desirable. I then rode back to Gatai, on
my way going to see about the removal into safety
[Pg 59]
|Await orders—return to Gatai.|
at that place of a large quantity of Government
property which one of my patrolling parties had discovered
in the middle of some hills about half way
between the two places. These things proved to be
a large convoy of Government stores which an
Afghan contractor had been bringing upon camels
to Kandahar, when he was attacked by the enemy,
and obliged to drop his load, and give them his
camels to carry the wounded and the loot from
Dubbrai. We succeeded in rescuing them and
bringing them into the fort at Gatai, where I was
obliged to leave them.
April 19th.
—The next morning I was reinforced
by some of the 7th Fusiliers, my own escort with
my baggage coming in at the same time. I had
been 48 hours without anything but the clothes I
stood in, and I must say I really felt very little
inconvenience from the want of my luxuries. The
ground does not make half a bad bed, especially if
one has been riding in a hot sun for 12 or 14 hours,
and as to eating and drinking there is no sauce like
hunger and thirst, and under such circumstances it
is wonderful how extremely nice, things, that really
are very nasty, seem. I have discovered that a saddle
is a first-class pillow, and that with it and a couple
of blankets and a fairly soft piece of ground, a most
excellent bed is quite possible. The truth was, I
was really done when evening came, and any place
where one could stretch oneself was delightful. On
[Pg 60]the afternoon of the 19th I rode back to Dubbrai to
try to telegraph to Kandahar, taking a telegraph
signaller with his instrument with me. The enemy
had again (after all my trouble of the previous day)
cut the wire, and we had a lot more work to do so very
unwillingly, as it was getting dark, and I had only
2 native cavalry soldiers with me and no officer, I
was obliged to start back to Gatai without succeeding
in sending my telegram. It was rather a risky
ride back in the dark (I did not get back into camp
till near 9 o'clock), but I kept a good look out, and
always took care to be going rather hard in any
confined place where the enemy could have concealed
themselves. We saw not a soul, except on one
occasion in an open piece of ground, I thought I
made out 4 or 5 fellows about a quarter of a mile
off, who, the very instant they saw I was coming
towards them with my 2 soldiers, bolted, and I
thought, under the circumstances, that I had no
business to go skying after them, so pursued my road
quietly without an accident or incident of any kind.
April 20th.
—This morning the wire was restored,
and General Primrose telegraphed to me that it was
not thought necessary to keep troops, as I suggested,
at Gatai and thereabouts, and that he wanted me at
Kandahar. I then thought this wrong, and still think
so, and the events of the last few days have amply
supported my views. However, I had nothing to do
but to obey, which I did, stating, however, my views of
[Pg 61]the position very plainly in my report. The 7th
Fusiliers (Head Quarters) joined me this morning full
of indignation because one of their native servants,
who had strayed away from the road, had been
attacked by Afghans and most seriously wounded.
They had sent a couple of cavalry soldiers out, who
had evidently seized the first two Afghans they had
met and declared them to be the culprits. There was
a great demand for immediate
justice? and I fancy the
lives of the 2 poor wretches would not have been
worth much had I not been in camp and positively
prohibited anything but an enquiry, leaving the
punishment of the men to the Civil authorities. I
was the more determined on this point, as the
evidence against them seemed to me to be very weak.
|March to Mel Kharez.|
I marched for Mel Kharez at 4 o'clock with my usual
escort and party, and stopping to dine at Dubbrai,
arrived at the end of our journey (the distance is 21
miles) about half-past 11. The last 2 hours we had a
bright moon and clear cold air, and the ride was
very enjoyable.
Wednesday, 21st April.
—Mel Kharez has a Fort
like the other places, and it was also looted, but no
English officer being there, the native Commissariat
Establishment had very wisely bolted to safety, and
so no one was killed. I should say that this station
was, of course, more favorably situated than Dubbrai,
as it was within 12 miles of a military post of ours,
while Dubbrai was at least 25 miles away from any
[Pg 62]help. I forgot to mention an amusing little incident at
Gatai. There also the Commissariat agent, a Parsee,
had run away when the place was attacked. When
he returned and came to me to report his arrival, I
said to him in chaff, "oh, you are the gentleman
who ran away!" to which he replied quite as if he was
much pleased with himself, "yes, sir, I ran away,
and thereby I have saved my life," which was
certainly true. At Gatai I had much trouble in
getting water, the neighbouring chiefs having cut
off the stream which supplied the Fort. After
exhausting all gentle means to bring them to reason,
I tried the
moral force of some cavalry who I sent
with orders to bring the chief man before me. The
officer did his work capitally, bringing back a
leading native chief, whose seizure had the best
effect, as the water flowed into our camp sharp
enough as soon as they knew I had their head man
in my power. I kept my friend as a kind of a state
prisoner till the next morning, when, with the usual
formalities of Eastern life, I gave him an interview.
He was a singularly handsome fine old man, with
(like all true Afghans) a very Jewish type of countenance
and a good manner. He was humble enough,
and tried to make all sorts of excuses, none of which
I informed him I thought at all good, but as the
water had been turned on, and he had apologised
for the delay, I dismissed him with a warning for
the future. Several of the other chiefs came in to
make their salaam to me, and to promise all sorts of
[Pg 63]things for the future. An Afghan is, however, so
natural a liar that no one thinks of believing them,
and among themselves they are never weak enough
to put any trust one in the other, and in this they
are quite wise, as a more treacherous lying set of
beings do not, I suppose, exist on the face of the
|March to Abdool Rahmon.|
world. We marched from Mel Kharez at 2 p.m., a
beautiful afternoon, to Abdool Rahmon, which is 12½
miles off. The road lay through an undulating
valley, on the edges of which there were some signs
of cultivation. Four miles from Mel Kharez is a range
of hills called the Ghlo Kotal, at which we had hoped
and expected the enemy would have made a stand,
but they had bolted on the first sign of our troops
approaching. After crossing the Kotal we descended
into the Takt-i-Pul plain, and reached Abdool Rahmon
about 6 o'clock. There is the usual Fort at this place,
and it is well and sufficiently garrisoned, and its defences
are quite good enough for the requirements.
Abdool Rahmon is 26 miles from Kandahar, so I
determined I would ride in there ahead of my party
next morning, leaving them with the baggage to do
the distance in the usual 2 marches. I got the
native chief of the place, a certain Gholām Jan, to
lend me a trotting camel on which to send my bag
and bedding into Kandahar, and arranged to ride
Rufus the first stage and a cavalry horse the last
one into Kandahar. An order from Kandahar
prohibits officers attempting to go alone, so I took
an escort of a non-commissioned officer and 4 cavalry
[Pg 64]soldiers with me, the escort being relieved at the
next stage.
Thursday, 22nd April.
—Left Abdool Rahmon
at 6.30 a.m., with an escort of 5 sowars (native
cavalry), and cantered to Mandi Hissar, the next
and last stage on the road to Kandahar. The
country is a dead plain, with some little cultivation,
and intersected by watercourses. There are numerous
fortified villages dotted about, from which the passers
by are very often fired upon. At Mandi Hissar I
was to change my horse for a trooper from the
cavalry detachment there, and also to relieve my
escort. While the horse and escort were being prepared
I had a talk with the old Soubadar (native
captain) commanding the detachment of the 19th
Native infantry quartered there, who, with all his
men, were most anxious to hear all I could tell them
about Major Waudby, who was beloved by all in the
regiment. The old Soubadar told me that they all
knew what a
big heart (
i.e., how brave) he had, and
he added "if we can only meet the Afghan scoundrels,
we will avenge Waudby Sahib's death right well;"
and so I feel sure they will. To show the feeling of
this regiment I may mention that when the news of
Major Waudby's death was received, a detachment
of 150 men were ordered to march at once to join
me. The men were told off in the usual manner,
but when the detachment paraded it was found that
170 were present, 20 men having fallen in in the
[Pg 65]hopes that they would not be discovered, and would
succeed in getting to the front. After leaving Mandi
Hissar, the country is the usual stony, dusty desert
for 3 or 4 miles, when a low range of hills are crossed,
|First glimpse of Kandahar.|
and the road descends into the valley in which
Kandahar lies, which was green with corn fields and
orchards, and was the pleasantest sight I had seen
since I left Bombay. In the distance the grey mud
walls of the city of Kandahar were visible, but
making no imposing appearance, and differing really
in no way from the villages we had passed, except
the extent was greater, and that in many places the
line of the walls was hidden by the orchards which
lie all round the city. Unlike most Mahomedan
cities, no domes or minarets of mosques were visible,
and I believe there is in the whole place but one
mosque of any importance, and it would be hardly
noticed in any Mahomedan town in India. Passing
round the wall of the city I was conducted by an
orderly who had been sent out to meet me to the
charming house in which General Primrose and his
staff live, where I found a very friendly welcome,
and a very good breakfast ready for me. Including
a quarter of an hour's halt at Mandi Hissar, I had
accomplished my ride of 25 miles in 3½ hours, which
was sufficiently fast, as I did not want to over-ride my
horses. The house occupied by the General is a
regular native building, composed of small and oddly
shaped rooms, very thick walls, and a flat roof. Many
of the rooms are highly ornamented with painting and
[Pg 66]gilding, and it is a quaint and cool place to live in,
especially as it stands in a delightful garden full of
roses, mulberries, peach, pear, plum trees, and vines,
through which flow narrow canals of water with a
rapid stream, and forms altogether a most delightfully
quiet and refreshing sight after the wretched
deserts we had been passing through. In this
garden, but in another house, also lives the chief
political officer, Colonel St. John, and his assistant.
The garden has a wall 12 feet high round it, and the
entrances are guarded by English native troops, as it
is, of course, important to avoid any risks to the
chief military officer. Outside the garden lie the
very regiments of the force, for the greater number
of whom a certain degree of shelter from the sun is
provided in the shape of mud huts or buildings
of Afghan pattern. Some of the regiments are
quartered in regular Afghan villages, out of which
the inhabitants have been turned, but some of the
buildings now occupied by troops are actually those
which we built ourselves for our men when we
occupied Kandahar in 1839, and which were found
in fairly good condition when we returned here
|Description of quarters.|
forty years later, in 1879. Quarters of a not very
luxurious description are provided for the officers,
that is to say, they are given a room without doors
or windows, and with a mud floor, and any improvements
they wish to make they are required to do
themselves. There is, of course, no furniture, and
any luxuries one wants in that way we have to get
[Pg 67]for ourselves. The room I have got is at one end of
a long low line of mud huts, the whole of which,
except the 4 rooms at one end, which are allotted to
me and my staff, and the four rooms at the other
end which will be given to General Burrows and his
staff, are occupied by artillery officers. My set of
quarters are in this shape,
so I have one room to sleep, sit, and write in, and a
room where we dine and breakfast, and which is,
of course, public property. I have, as a special
indulgence, a bath-room all to myself, but no one
else has one. The room when I came into it was
horrid; the floor was six inches deep in dust;
there were no doors or windows, and altogether it
was most unpromising. I have, however, had a
floor made for it, the passage and dining-room, of a
wonderful kind of stuff like Plaster of Paris which
abounds here, and which hardens in the most
wonderful way. I have had windows put in, and
hope to have a door soon; and having bought a few
pieces of a rough native carpeting in the city, and a
couple of tables and chairs, my room begins to look
very fair indeed. The mud walls are appropriately
[Pg 68]covered with yards of maps, which look very
business-like, and in the small recesses I have had a
few wooden shelves put up which quite do to hold
my very scanty wardrobe. I find my room very
hot and close at night, so I have pitched my little
tent outside my door and sleep in it, watched over
by a sentry whose sole duty is to guard his sleeping
General, who can, therefore, slumber in the most
perfect security. It would be rather monotonous to
live with my Brigade Major and orderly officer only,
as I am afraid we should get very tired of each other
during the hot weather, so I am trying to get up a
sort of mess between General Burrows and me,
taking in our staff, and a couple of outsiders
who have no special place to go to—viz., our
Chaplain, Mr. Cane, and the Judge Advocate,
Colonel Beville. The latter has agreed to manage
the affair, so I have nothing to do with housekeeping,
which is a blessing, and as Colonel Beville
quite understands management and likes good things,
I hope the affair will be a success, and that General
Burrows will agree to join. The parson begged me
to take him in, and I did not like to refuse, though
I cannot say I care much about him (though perhaps
he will improve on acquaintance), as he has the
reputation of being rather inclined to quarrel and
be difficult to manage. We will hope he is maligned
and will prove not to have so unclerical a failing. A
mess on service is a very rough affair, as we have
no plate, crockery or linen, and live what is called
[Pg 69]camp fashion, that is, all the mess provides is tables
and food, and each person's servant brings his plates,
knives, forks, and spoons, and chairs, and when
dinner or breakfast is over removes them. We shall,
I daresay, in time get a few luxuries such as chairs,
dishes, and perhaps a few table-cloths (I have 2 of
my own for great occasions), and we have already
made our dining-room look fairly comfortable (I am
writing on 4th May), by putting down some carpets,
and I have no doubt between Colonel Beville and
me that we will get rid of as much unnecessary
|Annoyances from flies and sand-flies.|
roughness as we can. The great drawback of the
whole place is the flies, which are most exasperating
and pertinaceous. I am preparing a complete set of
fortifications against them for my own room, by
having net (which I have been fortunate to get in
the city), such as musquito curtains are made of,
nailed over the windows, and a door covered with
net for the one entrance, so that I hope in time to
be fairly free from them. They retire for the night,
I am glad to say, about 7 o'clock, but as soon as they
leave the sand-flies begin, and I think they are almost
as bad, as they buzz and bite just like musquitos. They
are a kind of very small gnat, and their bite is most
irritating to some people, but they don't hurt me.
The regiments are necessarily scattered over a large
extent of ground, and the work is consequently very
heavy on the men, as we have to post sentries very
closely together to prevent the Afghans coming
within our lines. The great proportion of the force
[Pg 70]is outside the city where I am living, but we hold
the citadel, which is inside the city, where also we
keep our arsenal and commissariat stores. A native
infantry regiment and a detachment of a British
infantry regiment hold the citadel, and the quarters
occupied by both the officers and men there are
much preferable to ours in the cantonments, as they
are all regular native houses, many of which have
gardens, and all some trees near and about them, and
in this desert land a bit of green or a little shade
have a value which no one who has not seen the
country can understand. There is nothing striking
about the actual city of Kandahar to anyone who
has visited or seen an ordinary Indian town of the
5th or 6th rank. There are the usual bazaars with
the occupants of the shops at work at their various
trades in the front of their shops, and in many shops
coarse English earthenware and cheap Birmingham
and Manchester goods are exposed for sale, as is the
case in even small villages in India. Raisins of all
sorts and description, from the little sultanas up to
dark purple ones, are sold in quantities, and seem to
be a regular portion of the food of the poorest people.
So far I have seen nothing curious or unusual which
I would be tempted to buy, but then we cannot here
wander about and go into the shops and ransack
them for curiosities, as the people have a nasty trick
of watching till a person is busy looking at things in
a shop, and then coming up quietly and stabbing
one in the back. It is consequently necessary, when
[Pg 71]we go shopping, to go in parties of 2 or 3, or take an
escort, so as to always have some one on the watch
against treachery, and as long as one takes this precaution
they are too cowardly to attack in the open.
The people in the streets are very picturesque, and
most of them fine handsome men. No women are
ever seen except very old ones, and even they generally
wear the Turkish yashmak or veil which covers
|Kandaharis—the Charsoo.|
them from head to foot. In the centre of the city
the 4 main streets meet under a curious large-domed
building, around which are shops, and which is
always crowded with a very mixed gathering of
villains of all sorts. This place is called the Charsoo
(or four waters), and it was in it that Lieutenant
Willis, of the artillery, was murdered in broad day
light by a Ghazi (N.B.—Next week I will explain who
and what Ghazis are), who, however, was himself
immediately killed. Any native attempting the
life of any officer or soldier is now always hung in
the Charsoo, which has had a very good effect.
Thursday, 22nd April, continued.
—The newspapers
have had a good deal of late about Ghazis,
both here and at Cabul, and I dare say it
will be well to explain who and what they are, as
even here people have an idea that every Afghan
who fights against us is a Ghazi, and there is some
reason for this idea, as the primary meaning of the
Persian word is "a warrior." The Ghazis, however,
with whom we have had to deal, are fanatical
[Pg 72]Mahomedans who bind themselves by vows to kill
one or more of the infidels (that is of us), and
thereby earn a positive certainty of going straight
to heaven. So convinced are they that if they can
only kill an infidel their future happiness is secured,
that they are perfectly indifferent as to whether they
lose their own life in the attempt or not, in fact I
believe they rather desire to be killed, and so enter
at once on all the delights of a Mahomedan Paradise,
the principal charm of which is, that they are there
to have as many wives as ever they like, all, we will
hope, warranted free from vice or temper, and requiring
no management, but living as a happy
family, without any jealousy or inclination to scratch
out each others' eyes, as I fear would be the case in
a similar establishment on earth. It will be easily
understood that a gentleman with these ideas in his
head is a very awkward customer, as, caring absolutely
nothing as to what happens to himself, he has
a very great pull over the man he attacks, who is
extremely unwilling to be either wounded or killed.
|Murderous assaults by Ghazis.|
Moreover, although the Ghazis are undoubtedly
brave to fool-hardiness, they don't at all disdain
stratagem or treachery, and much prefer to stab
their first victim quietly in the back, as the more
men they kill before they are themselves killed, by
so much the more is their position in Paradise improved.
They, however (that is the real Ghazis),
never use fire-arms, only swords or long Afghan
knives, and always try for a personal hand-to-hand
[Pg 73]encounter. There have been many cases of attacks
by Ghazis here, and though in every case the Ghazi
was immediately himself killed, nothing seemed to
stop the practice. There has, however, been no
attempt of the kind for a month, but of course none
of the necessary precautions are relaxed. The last
case was that of a lad, who was a sworn Ghazi,
attacking an officer with no other weapon than a
shoemaker's awl, with which, however, he inflicted a
couple of disagreeable wounds in the back before he
was seen and seized. On Christmas day 5 men
walked out of the city, and came into the barracks
of the 59th, and (in open day) produced long knives
from under their clothes, called out that they were
Ghazis, and had come to kill anyone they could get
at. Of course they were shot down, but so wild was
the shooting that 4 of the men of the regiment were
killed by the bullets from their comrades' rifles!
The incident, however, shows what plucky fellows
they are, as of course when they entered the barracks
of the 59th, and openly declared their purpose, they
must have known their lives were forfeited. In consequence
of the number of Ghazis here, and the
generally hostile feelings of the people to us, we are
all required to go armed at all times, even when
riding out or walking for exercise. It is a great
worry, and I hate it, being a little sceptical as to the
necessity for the extreme measure of precaution
required, and am disposed to think a neat little
bludgeon of a walking stick I possess would prove a
[Pg 74]much more serviceable defence to me than my regulation
sword. Everyone carries loaded revolvers,
especially when in the city, and I dare say the fact
that we all do so being known, prevents many attempted
attacks being made. The soldiers have to
carry their rifles, and when they go into the town
have to fix their bayonets, and altogether we live in
a regular state of siege, which I would myself like to
see ended by the application of some good strong
remedies, and immediate and severe punishment for
murderous attacks. Still, even then I fear we could
not hope to change the nature of an Afghan, who is
born a treacherous, lying, murdering scoundrel.
Strong words, I know, but nothing more than they
deserve, as even their admirers can say nothing in
favor of their moral qualities.
Friday, 23rd April.
—Being, for the present, the
next senior officer to General Primrose, I exercise
the command of all the troops at Kandahar, and all
local arrangements and details are in my hands, as
General Primrose commands the whole force, the
senior officer at each place having the local command.
When General Burrows arrives the command here
devolves, by virtue of his seniority, on him, and I
fall back on my brigade command, which I hold now
in conjunction with the large command. The troops
here form a nice little force, and consist of—
3 | Batteries of artillery. |
2 | Native cavalry regiments. |
2 | British infantry regiments. |
3 | Native infantry regiments. |
| And sappers and miners. |
[Pg 75]
And though the command entails plenty of work
and responsibility, I like it, and wish I could keep it
while I am here. The first thing, of course, was to
ascertain the positions held by various regiments,
their weak points, &c., and so I spent the afternoon
in riding round and making myself acquainted with
everything as far as I could, so that in case of a row
at night, I should be ready to decide on what might
be necessary to do. I moved into my quarters in
the cantonments, and obtained permission for Capt.
Law, of the artillery, to act as my Brigade-Major, as
the officer who is to hold the appointment permanently
has not yet arrived. Capt. Law is a smart
good officer, and I am very glad to have him as my
staff officer.
Force ordered into the Arghesan valley.
Saturday, 24th April.
—This afternoon I was
greatly delighted to receive orders to hold in readiness
a small force to proceed into the Arghesan
valley, to disperse a considerable gathering of the
enemy who were reported to be there. I was to go
in command, so I had a double interest in the matter,
and lost no time in seeing that everything was prepared,
and that we should be fully supplied with all
the necessary appliances for entrenching, road and
bridge making, blowing up the enemy's forts, &c.
We were not to start till Monday, and then only if
[Pg 76]the enemy did not agree to disperse and submit to
the Governor of Kandahar, which they had been
called on to do. I am sorry to say that hearing of
our preparations they gave in at once, and eventually
my little expedition was countermanded, which was
a great disappointment to everyone. During the
evening we had a little excitement, as an Afghan
tried to steal and run away with the rifle of one of
the native soldiers, which he had put down on the
ground for a minute. The soldier gave the alarm,
and 4 men of the nearest guard turned out and, after
an exciting chase of about 3 miles, they came up
within 400 yards of the thief, who immediately fired
at them, but they returned his fire with good effect,
and killed him at the 2nd shot, recovering the rifle
and the remainder of the ammunition.
Sunday, 25th April.
—We had (as we have each
Sunday) service for the troops in the open. The
men are formed up on 3 sides of a square, and a pile
of drums on the fourth side acts as reading desk and
pulpit. Of course the men come with their rifles,
and everyone is fully armed, ready for business at a
moment's notice. There is a room in one of the
barracks where evening service is held, but it is too
small for the whole of the men in the morning, and
there is also a temporary church in the citadel, where
there is service morning and evening performed by a
missionary.
[Pg 77]
Inspected quarters of various regiments.
April 26th to 30th.
—I was engaged morning
and afternoon visiting all the regiments, camps and
hospitals, and making myself thoroughly acquainted
with the various positions, and carrying out such
changes and alterations as seemed to me necessary,
first, for the safety of the place, and next for the
comfort of the men. I also managed to take a few
gallops out along the main roads which lead to
Herat and Ghuzni, so as to have some idea of the
country, in case of necessity. I hope shortly to
know every inch of the country for 10 or 15 miles
round, but this will take a little time. I am required
by General Primrose never to move about
with less than 2 native cavalry soldiers, and of course
if I go more than 4 or 5 miles from camp I would
take 4. Sometimes I take my Brigade-Major or
Orderly Officer, or both, but I like best wandering
about alone, as then I feel more independent (that is
without any other officer). Frequently, however,
parties of 6 or 7 officers are got up, and we have a
scamper across country, earnestly hoping we may meet
some one who would like to try conclusions with us.
Saturday, May 1.
—Received letters from home,
dated 1st April, a most welcome arrival and a great
pleasure. People who get letters every day in the
week cannot understand what the pleasure of getting
letters is when you can only hear once a week,
and then only provided the Afghans have been
behaving themselves along the road.
[Pg 78]
Sunday, May 2.
—I had just settled myself down
to a quiet day after service and breakfast when a
report was brought to me that there had been a row
in the city between the Afghans and some soldiers of
the Artillery, and that 2 soldiers had been shot and
one wounded. There was a good deal of excitement,
as every one at once made up their minds that it
was the beginning of an organized attack. The
accounts which I succeeded in getting out of the
soldiers who had rushed up out of the city were most
conflicting, excepting in one remarkable point on
which all agreed, and that was that only one shot
had been heard, although it was acknowledged that
one of our men fired off his carbine down the street.
This was curious, and made me doubtful about the
whole affair, so I sent the Brigade-Major off to the
city at once to discover the facts for me, and went
over to General Primrose, who sent the Political
Officer also into the city to make enquiries, and
eventually we ascertained, almost without a doubt,
that the men had been killed by the accidental
discharge of a carbine by one of their comrades who
had been fiddling with his loaded carbine, which had
gone off, and the bullet passing through 2 men
killed them instantaneously. Since then the man
has confessed and explained the whole matter, and
there is now no doubt that there was no shot fired
by the Afghans at all. The affair caused some
excitement, and might have led to very serious
results.
[Pg 79]
Inspections—Ride into Argandab River valley.
May 3rd, 4th, & 5th.
—More inspections and
visits to the troops morning and evening which fully
occupied my time.
May 6.
—A party of officers, among whom was
William French, accompanied me to visit the valley
of the Argandab River, which lies N.E. and N.W.,
and about 4 miles from Kandahar. To get to this
valley a range of hills rising to 4,500 feet (that is
1,000 feet higher than our camp) has to be crossed,
there being only 2 practicable passes, and these very
rough, steep, and bad. The change from the dusty
stone plain round Kandahar to the valley, which lies
on the other side of these hills, is extraordinary, as
nothing can be more wretched than the one and
nothing more charming than the other. The whole
valley is a series of fields of the most magnificent
crops of wheat and barley, meadows full of clover,
and orchards of every imaginable description of
fruit. (To be continued).
May 6th.
—It would not be possible to give an idea
of the luxuriance of the crops and the extraordinary
abundance and variety of the fruits in the Argandab
valley. Every field has rows of mulberry trees
round, which were covered with fruit, of which the
passers by (we among them) eat apparently as much
as they like without payment. The other fruits were
not ripe, but the apricots were just beginning to get
soft, as were the plums, especially one very like the
[Pg 80]greengage in appearance and taste. Besides these
there were vines everywhere, climbing over the
walls and up the mulberry and other trees, all
covered with a magnificent promise of grapes.
There were also in abundance—peaches, nectarines,
figs, pears, apples, quinces, and pomegranates, the
latter being only in flower, but in that way adding
greatly to the general appearance of the orchards, as
they bear a very dark red flower which is most
effective among the dark green of their leaves.
Each field or orchard has a rapidly flowing stream
of clear cool water running through it, which is the
cause of the extreme luxuriance of everything, and
very grateful to us who have been so long in a very
"dry and thirsty land." (The remarkable fitness of
these Bible descriptions are very clearly seen in
these eastern lands). After halting in a mulberry
grove resting our horses and having a good feed of
mulberries, we struck out across country to get
home, and had a delicious ride along the banks
of a big canal shaded with trees, and felt very sorry
when we emerged once again into the dust and glare
of Kandahar. The apricots are now (May 12th)
just being brought into the market, and we buy
them (paying, no doubt, an extravagant price) for
1½d. for 2lbs.!! The difficulty is to avoid eating too
many. Peaches, plums, and figs, will follow, and
we shall, I believe, have grapes in June. The
people are now cutting their corn which is rapidly
ripening, which we are sorry for, as we shall miss
[Pg 81]the beautiful green they now are, and have only
fields of yellow stubble. The primitive reaping
hook, almost exactly similar to that used at home, is
in use here, and the Afghan spade is almost similar
to our shovel in shape, with the exception that on
the
handle of the shovel a cross piece of wood is
fixed as a foot piece for the digger. I am told, but
this I can hardly believe, that from the same root of
wheat, barley, and oats (that is from one sowing),
they get in this country 2 distinct crops, and
certainly they appear systematically to cut down the
first crop when it is green, but after it has eared,
and in a few weeks afterwards a second crop is in
ear without any fresh sowing.
Visit to old city of Kandahar.
May 7th.
—Rode out to visit the old city of
Kandahar, which has been in ruins since 1737 when
it was besieged by the Persian King, Nadir Shah,
and after a long siege taken and destroyed. It is a
curious sight to see it now, as the walls of the city
and many of the fortifications, which must have been
for those days very strong, still remain in wonderful
preservation, as do the walls of the houses covering
a considerable extent of ground, but not a living
soul is to be seen, and the whole place is a picture of
desolation and loneliness. After Nadir Shah had
destroyed this city, he caused another one, also
fortified, to be built about four miles off, but this
also has been deserted, and is even more ruined than
the older city. The present city of Kandahar is the
[Pg 82]third which has been built within the last 150
years.
May 8th.
—I made an excursion to one of the
Passes over the hills near this, but the distance was
longer than I had calculated on, and as it was getting
dark I had to turn home without accomplishing my
object.
May 9th.
—I started for a ride at half-past 5 p.m.,
accompanied by my usual escort of 2 native cavalry
soldiers, and proposed to myself to ride to a place
called Kokeran, about 7 miles off. When I got out
about two miles on the road I saw that there were
threatenings of a dust-storm from that direction, and,
not caring to ride for pleasure into a cloud of dust,
I turned off to the left and took a canter for 3 or 4
miles through the fields, coming out eventually on
the Kokeran road, about 4 miles from our camp.
The weather had cleared then, and I thought I might
still have time to explore a little way along this road,
but on looking at my watch I found it was 7 o'clock,
and that (as there is no twilight here) it would be
quite dark before I could get home, so I turned
round and cantered back to camp. Just as I got
close to the camp of the 19th Native Infantry, I saw
a party of officers and 2 cavalry soldiers going along
very slowly in front of me, and on riding up to them
and enquiring what was the matter, I found that
they, while returning along the Kokeran road from
[Pg 83]
|Officers fired at by Afghans near Kokeran.|
a ride, had been fired on by a party of Afghans concealed
behind a wall, and that one officer (Captain
Garrett) and one Sowar were badly wounded. Captain
Garrett was nearly fainting and falling off his horse,
as he had to ride about 5 miles after being wounded,
so I got him off on to the ground, and supported
him till a doctor and a litter to carry him in was
brought, and at the same time sent off one of the
officers to report the occurrence to General Primrose.
The attack had taken place about a mile nearer to
Kokeran than the spot at which I had come out on
the road, so, had I been half an hour or even less
earlier arriving there, I should certainly have gone
down the road, and had a chance of a scrimmage on
my own account, and had I carried out my original
intention I should have got to the spot where the
ambuscade was before the other party, or possibly
just about the same time, which would have been
more convenient altogether. My first inclination
when I heard the account was to gallop back to the
place with my own 2 Sowars and the one unwounded
man of the party which had been attacked, but on
reflection for an instant I felt this would not be
correct, first, because I was bound to take General
Primrose's orders, next because the chances were,
that long before I could get back the 5 miles the
attacking party would have run away, and lastly
that it would certainly be considered not the place
of a General to be scampering with 3 men over the
country, like a cavalry subaltern, and so I galloped
[Pg 84]off to General Primrose in the hopes he would give
me the cavalry Brigade and let me go off to scour
the whole country. At first he was very well inclined
to do this, but eventually less forward councils
prevailed and a hundred
good? reasons were discovered
for doing nothing till morning. On further
enquiring from the officers who were fired at, we
found that they had been out to Kokeran, and were
riding quietly back, the three officers abreast and
the 2 Sowars behind, when suddenly a volley was
fired at them, and thinking there was a large body
of men concealed, they galloped off. As it turned
out there were only 10 or 12 men, and after seeing
the ground as I did next morning, I had no difficulty
in coming to the conclusion that they might, with
good effect, have halted some 2 or 300 yards off, and
returned the fire with good success.
May 10.
—I went out very early with some
cavalry and the Political Officer, and scoured the
country round, but of course found no traces of the
party who had fired on the officers, and all the surrounding
villages absolutely denied any complicity
in the affair, so we had to return to camp, having
been unable to accomplish anything. In the afternoon
I went out again with an escort of cavalry, and
accompanied by 5 or 6 officers, and we went to Kokeran
and hunted the hills all round, but saw no one. No
doubt we threw away our only chance in deferring
till to-day what ought to have been done yesterday.
[Pg 85]
Installation of Shere Ali Khan as Wāli.
May 11th.
—I attended a great durbar (or court)
at the palace of the Governor, in the city, at which
the letter appointing Shere Ali Khan, Governor of
the Province of Kandahar, on behalf of the Queen,
was to be read. Although it was very like what all
such affairs in India are, it was quite worth seeing,
and I should have enjoyed it very much if I had not
been obliged to eat and drink so many nasty things
as Persian etiquette on such occasions absolutely requires
one to swallow. The proceedings commenced
with small cups of tea, without milk or cream, being
handed round, then there were speeches and the
presentation of the Viceroy's letter, and of the presents
sent by the Queen, and the affair wound up by
trays of Afghan sweet-meats and iced sherbet being
brought in, of which all, even the soldiers on the
guard of honor, were required to partake. Iced
sherbet sounds nice, but when it is flavoured with
musk, it is apt (at least as far as I am concerned) to
act very like an emetic. The sweet-meats I dare say
I should have appreciated better about 30 or 40
years ago, and my Orderly Officer certainly seemed
to find them very much to his taste. I send a capital
account of the whole affair which appeared in the
Kandahar News, and which can be read by those
curious in such matters at this point....
On the 13th of May
the new Governor, or as he
is called here, the Wāli, which is the Persian word
for
Governor of a province, announced his intention
[Pg 86]of coming to pay a return visit of ceremony to
General Primrose, and as Government wished us to
show him all possible honor we had the whole
garrison out (about 5,000 men) and lined the streets
of the town and the roads between his palace and
General Primrose's house. The troops turned out
wonderfully well and smartly, and we hear the
Governor and his people were much impressed by
their appearance. After seeing all right along the
line of the procession I returned to General Primrose's
house, where all the staff were collected to assist
General Primrose in receiving his guest. The Wāli (or
Governor) arrived about ¼ to 6 o'clock, accompanied
by a very ragged looking lot of followers. He sat
between General Primrose and me, and we had to
carry on the usual uninteresting exchange of compliments
through an interpreter, as none of us could
speak Persian, and none of the Afghans could speak
Hindustani. After a short time tea was handed
round, and to our relief the visit, which was necessarily
a very stupid affair, ended. According to
Eastern etiquette, the Governor ought to have
brought return presents with him, and each of us
who were there should have had some present,
but our Government do not allow us to accept
anything of value, so nothing was offered. Since
then, however, the Governor has sent us each,
as a memento of the occasion, one of the new
gold coins which he has struck for general
issue. It is rather a pretty coin, of quite pure
[Pg 87]gold, and will do very well as an ornament for a
watch chain.
Ride to an old gold mine—now deserted.
May 14th to 19th.
—Nothing of any interest occurred,
except that I daily take long rides and
increase my knowledge of the country, nearly every
yard of which, for 10 or 12 miles round, I have now
ridden over. To the north and east of Kandahar
there are very pleasant rides indeed, through green
fields and shady lanes, along watercourses, but on
the other two sides it is all sandy and stony deserts,
with high rocky hills, which only a sense of duty
has induced me to visit at all. Among other places
I have been to is a gold mine which has been worked
for centuries, and is situated about 5 miles from
Kandahar. It is now, however, deserted, as the upper
earth fell in two or three years ago, and has choked
up the place where they say the vein of gold was.
The new Governor of Kandahar is most anxious
to re-open the works, but despite the wonderful
stories of the richness of the mine which the natives
tell, he has not been able to get much encouragement
out of our professional Geologist, who, after a careful
examination, has come to the conclusion that the
mine will never again pay its working expenses.
The morning I rode over to see the place I found
the Wāli (governor) down in the bottom of the mine,
with half a dozen natives, carefully examining the
place and collecting specimens, &c. He had evidently
come out to have a quiet look at his new
[Pg 88]property, and did not seem particularly pleased at
being caught, although he was very friendly and
civil, of course. In my wanderings through the
country I never fail to investigate the quality of the
fruit, and have made a discovery, in two places, of a
very superior kind of mulberry, of which there appears
to be only half a dozen trees in the whole
valley. They are so different from the common
kinds that the natives call them Shah-toot, which
means, the King mulberry, and the trees they grow
on are considered quite curiosities. It certainly is
a very delicious fruit, and I have only revealed my
discoveries to a chosen few. I am a much earlier
riser than most of my friends, and therefore seldom
or never have any companion in my morning rides,
except the two native cavalry soldiers who are my
escort. I generally start when I have no parades
or inspections, about half-past five in the morning,
when the air is deliciously cool, and seldom get home
till 9 o'clock, by which time the sun is very hot.
The country is intersected with water channels for
irrigation purposes, and mud walls divide the fields
of corn and wheat, so there is lots of jumping, and
some of the obstacles are very awkward. The orchards
and vineyards are surrounded with very high
walls, but there is also lots of fruit of all kinds growing
along the paths which anyone may eat. In this
country, from one end of it to another, there is no
such thing as what we would call a road, as there
being not a single wheeled vehicle in the whole
[Pg 89]length and breadth of the land, roads are not at all
necessary. Everything is carried on camels, ponies,
bullocks and donkeys, a regular stream of which flow
into Kandahar every morning, loaded with fruit,
grain and grass. The people here must be making
fortunes, and certainly ought to like us, as we pay
anything they ask for everything, and the prices,
though not very exorbitant, are at least double what
|Dust-storms of almost daily occurrence.|
they used to be. It is getting very hot now in the
day-time, and we have constant dust-storms, which
are, of all things, the most horrid and the greatest
trial to one's temper. Imagine the delights of an
immense cloud of dust a mile square, or more, driven
along by a red hot wind, and forcing its way into
every hole and corner. While it is passing it is
quite dark, even in mid-day, and when it is gone
everything one possesses, every table, chair and
book is covered with an inch of dust, and one's hair
and beard turned into a whitey brown color, and stiff
with dirt. Here we sometimes have a dust-storm
which is continuous for an hour, but generally they
come up in regular succession, each lasting 3 or 4
minutes, and a shorter or longer interval between
each. Towards 8 o'clock in the evening the wind
goes down and it becomes quite cool, and we generally
have our dinner table placed outside our
quarters, and so brilliant has the moon been, that for
the last four days we have dined quite comfortably
by the light of it without any candles or lamps at
all. Our mess now consists of General Burrows and
[Pg 90]his Brigade-Major, Captain Heath; General Brooke,
his Brigade-Major, Captain Leckie, and his Orderly
Officer, Lieut. Fox; Colonel Beville, Deputy Judge
Advocate, who manages the mess for us, Captain
Harris, the Deputy Assistant Quarter Master General,
and Mr. Cane, the Chaplain. The mess is managed
on what is called the "camp fashion" principles—that
is, every one has to provide their own plates,
cups, knives, forks, and spoons, and chair; then
wine, beer, and tea at breakfast are supplied by each
person for himself, according to his own taste, the mess
merely providing the eatables. It is a very good
plan, as then no large supplies of crockery, glass,
stores, or wine are necessary, and each one is able
at a moment's notice to go off on a march, with
all his things complete, without interfering with the
comfort of the remainder of the party.
Cases of Ghaziism—Ghazis killed.
May 20th.
—A Ghazi attempted to kill a soldier
of the 66th Foot to-day, but only succeeded in
wounding him, and was himself instantly killed by
the soldiers who happened to be near, who bayonetted
him promptly. It seems that the man who was
wounded was walking with a comrade down one of
the streets of Kandahar, looking at the things in the
shops, when an Afghan armed with a bayonet rushed
out of a side street, shouted out he was a Ghazi, and
made straight at the two men, and succeeded in
inflicting two wounds (not serious) on the man
nearest to him before his comrade fully realized
[Pg 91]what was happening, when he immediately bayonetted
the Ghazi. When I first arrived here the men used
to go into the city with loose ammunition, and often,
I make no doubt, with loaded rifles, and when
attacked by Ghazis used to fire wildly and, as a rule,
missed the Ghazi, and killed unoffending passers by. I
took the loose ammunition from them (leaving them,
of course, ammunition in the usual bundles in their
pouches), and told them in such cases to use their
bayonets first, and then, if pressed, they might open
ammunition and use it. The change was not altogether
liked, but this affair (the first in which a
Ghazi has had prompt justice meted to him) has
satisfactorily proved the propriety of the arrangement.
May 21st to 25th.
—Nothing new has occurred.
We had lots of dust-storms, but, alas, there is
nothing new about them, as they come with a
painful degree of regularity every afternoon.
May 26th.
—There was another attempt by a
Ghazi to day to earn martyrdom, but this time it
was one of the Hindustani camp followers who was
attacked. He, however, had a sort of sickle in his
hand, with which he was cutting some grass, and
when attacked by the Ghazi, who had a sword, he
returned the compliment so smartly that the capture
of the Ghazi by a couple of native soldiers who came
up at the moment was very easy. He was brought
[Pg 92]in a prisoner, and when his case was being investigated,
and he was asked for his defence, he said
simply "that he was a Ghazi, that he had sold his
cow to buy a sword, and he was very sorry he had
not killed the infidel." He was handed over to the
Provost Marshal for immediate execution, and he
accepted his fate with the most perfect coolness and
indifference.
May 26th, 27th, and 28th.
—Nothing of interest
occurred.
May 29th.
—We had a great parade for the
Queen's birthday, all the troops at Kandahar being on
the ground, making a very effective show, as we had
Three Batteries of Artillery,
Three Regiments of Cavalry,
Five Regiments of Infantry,
and the line was of good extent. General Primrose
commanded the parade, and General Burrows and I
|Feu de joie—"Akhbar" admired.|
had each our own Brigades. One of the performances
on the Queen's birthday parade is firing a
feu de joie with blank ammunition, when the fire is
run down the whole of the front rank, and then
back up the rear rank, and this is done three times,
and is, as may be imagined, most trying to horses,
especially those who have to stand with their backs
to the line as those of the Generals and Staff have to
do on this occasion. Prudence suggested to me to
ride my old and tried charger Rufus, but vanity got
[Pg 93]the better of prudence, and being anxious to show
off Akhbar, and also to make the best turn-out on
my own account that I could, I made up my mind
to ride the Arab, who is really a picture when got
up for parade. He is young and inexperienced, and
had never been on parade before, or never heard a
shot fired, but Arabs very often don't mind anything
of that kind, and I hoped for the best and thought
it all right when he stood like a post while the
Artillery were firing their salute. The feu de joie,
and the consternation it produced among all the
other horses, was too much for his nerves, and he
gave me all I knew to sit on him, though I don't
blame him a bit, as this particular kind of firing is
most trying to all horses. On this occasion not one
of them really stood it steadily, and General Burrows'
horse was so objectionable as to succeed in throwing
him, although he is a first-rate rider. I was, however,
quite repaid for the little bother I had by the
admiration Mr. Akhbar's appearance called forth as
he went past the saluting flag at the head of the
Brigade.
May 30th and 31st.
—Nothing new.
June 1st and 2nd.
—Do. do.
June 3rd.
—I had been for some time meditating
an exploring trip up a valley which had not been
previously visited, and about which I wanted to
[Pg 94]know something, but had put it off from day to day
on account of the heat, as the distance made it
necessary to be out all the forenoon. Tired, however,
of the monotony of the previous week, I
determined to carry out my intention and have an
outing and a good ride. I made up a party, but at
the last moment all, except Captain Law and Captain
Slade of the Artillery, both of whom are enterprising
fellows, and always ready for anything, cried off on
one excuse or other, the real truth, however, being
that they were too lazy and did not like the idea of
a 35-mile ride. At the last moment a young subaltern
of the Artillery asked me to let him go also,
so we started a party of 4 officers and my 2 Native
Cavalry soldiers. We took a feed for our horses and
materials for a pic-nic breakfast with us, as we
intended to halt for a couple of hours or so about 8
o'clock. We left our quarters at 4 a.m., and it was
really quite chilly when we started, and continued
so till ¼ past 6 o'clock, when the sun got up and
quickly made himself felt. Our road lay through a
narrow valley, with high hills on either side, and
very stony rough going it was, as, in accordance
with the customs of this country, there was nothing
that one could call a road or even a pathway, and
consequently we had to go slowly except when now
and then we got out on a bit of grassy ground where
we could have a canter. We saw a good number of
deer who seemed much astonished to see a white
face, and moved away from us very leisurely, making
[Pg 95]us wish we had brought a gun or rifle with us. We
thought of trying our pistols on them, but did not
care to throw away our ammunition unnecessarily.
We also saw, though at some little distance from us,
the finest eagle I have ever seen. Indeed I have
never seen such an enormous bird anywhere. Our
destination was a fortified village called Mansurabad,
which is about 15 miles in a straight line from
Kandahar, but the turnings of the road added at
least a couple of miles to that. We hit it off all
right, and went all through it, the people seeming
civil enough, but very anxious for us to move on.
The most of the inhabitants were out in their fields
cutting a most magnificent crop of barley, wheat,
and oats, and they were evidently a well-to-do lot,
as there were great flocks of cattle and sheep grazing
all round, and the orchards were stocked with fruit
|Into the Argandab river valley.|
of all kinds. At this village we came on the
Argandab River, from which the water, which turns
the country along its banks and round Kandahar
into a garden, is brought by a wonderful system of
canals which carry it in all directions. These canals
leave the river just below Mansurabad, and the way
they are planned and engineered show great cleverness
on the part of the people who made them many
hundred years ago. Leaving Mansurabad behind,
we struck down the valley of the Argandab, and set
to work to find a good place for our halt for breakfast.
This was not quite so easy to do, as we wanted
such a lot of things. First and foremost, remembering
[Pg 96]the Prince Imperial's fate (though I don't
think we had a Captain Carey in our party), we wanted
a place which could not be approached suddenly by
the wiley Afghan, and a place that if attacked we
could have defended ourselves in. Then we wanted
shade for ourselves and horses, and water at hand
for the horses and for drinking and cooking. Eventually
we got rather a good spot though we had to
sacrifice shade somewhat to the other more material
points. Having set our horses to work at their
corn, we turned out the contents of our wallets (my
campaigning saddle carries 2 side bags and a pair of
holster wallets) and found we had the makings of a
capital breakfast. My contribution was first and
most important, a small kettle to boil water in, a tin
of chocolate and milk, 2 tins of potted beef and ham,
a loaf of bread, 6 hard-boiled eggs, salt, pepper, &c.
Among the others there were more eggs and more
bread, a Bologna sausage, and a heap of sandwiches.
We soon collected some sticks and had a fire burning
(I had brought matches and some old newspapers),
and quickly had hot water ready and chocolate
made, and made an excellent breakfast, finished off
by a heap of apricots brought to us by a friendly
Afghan. His idea of our powers of disposing of
apricots was magnificent, as, after we and our two
soldiers had eaten all we possibly could (and we did
our best), we fed our horses on them, and still left a
good pile behind us. In this part of the world
apricots are in millions, and our friend brought us a
[Pg 97]few for breakfast in a sack thrown over his shoulder.
The reason why apricots are cultivated up here is
that there is great demand for them in India in a
dried state, and tons of them are dried in the sun
and sent down to India, and can be purchased in the
smallest and most remote village in that country,
and you (the children) used to eat them stewed very
often when you were in India, and, if I don't mistake,
liked them very much. They are often called
in India
Alubokaras, which, however, is not their
proper name. We lounged about for a couple of
hours, and then continued our ride down the
Argandab Valley, and for ten miles rode along a
charming rapidly flowing stream of clear water, well
|Various fruits of Kandahar.|
shaded on both sides by trees covered with apricots,
plums, and mulberries, a most enjoyable ride, as,
though the sun was hot, there was a very cool breeze,
and the trees kept the great power of the sun from
us. We saw many vineyards with a great promise
of grapes, but none are ripe yet, and also lots of figs,
apples, pears and pomegranates, all, however, some
weeks from being eatable. The people we met,
though not actually glad to see us, were not uncivil,
and many of them offered us fruit as we rode along.
No doubt our being well armed helped to make them
civil. We got home at ¼ past 1 o'clock, having been
9¼ hours away, and having had a most enjoyable
excursion. The distance was, I think, between 33 and
35 miles, and my old friend Rufus carried me like a
bird, although with my saddle bags, big saddle and
[Pg 98]all, I am afraid I made up a good 15 stone for him
to carry.
June 4th, 5th, 6th, 7th.
—Nothing important
occurred on the 4th, but on each of the next three
days there were attempts by Ghazis to kill some of
our people. In the two first cases the men attacked
were native servants, in the third case it was a
soldier of the 66th. Both the natives were seriously
wounded, but the soldier having some suspicions was
on his guard, and escaped with a slight scratch, and
bayonetted his assailant. The last idea the Ghazis
have taken up, which is rather a mean one, is to send
quite young boys to make the attack, as naturally
people neither notice the approach of, nor try to
avoid a small boy, and besides men hesitate to deal
out summary justice, even in self defence, on a child.
One boy who tried to stab one of our native servants
is really quite a child, but as savage untamed a little
viper as I ever saw. It is very hard to know how
to deal with the young rascal, but I think a good
whipping in a public place every other day for a
month would be the best punishment. The first
well authenticated account of a Ghazi that I know
of will be found in the 3rd chapter of Judges, verses
14-22, as the motives and actions there described
are exactly those of the Ghazis of to-day. However,
this last device of sending children to do the work
of men is so mean, that any little respect one might
have for the motives which make men Ghazis is
entirely destroyed.
[Pg 99]
Serious loss of warm clothing.
June 8th.
—Shortly after I left Bombay I found I
should want some clothes I had left packed up, ready
to follow, so I telegraphed to Alfred Christopher,
and asked him to send my portmanteau to me, and
I took all sorts of precautions by writing to the
various transport officers along the road, and asking
them to expedite its movements. It left Bombay on
the 8th April, and exactly 2 months later it made
its appearance here, so it had travelled very leisurely,
and worse still, had been cut open and nearly everything
in it abstracted. All the things I most wanted
were stolen, and nothing was left except my Ulster
and a few pair of old drawers. When the weather
gets cold I shall be very glad to have the Ulster, of
course, but the loss of a first-class pair of corduroy
breeches and all my warm clothing is very tiresome.
This misfortune, and the destruction of my things in
the Bolan River leaves me rather short of clothes,
and I shall not find it easy to keep up a very respectable
appearance much longer.
June 9th, 10th, 11th.
—Nothing new. The heat
is very much greater the last few days, and even the
nights now begin to be hot.
June 11th to 18th.
—Nothing of any interest
occurred, except that day by day the weather became
hotter, and we lost our cool nights which had, up to
this time, quite compensated for the heat of the days.
A careful record of the heat during the month of
[Pg 100]June showed that the thermometer on one occasion
rose in the shade to 124°, but that the average
maximum for the month was 114°, and the average
minimum 65°. Although the heat has, no doubt,
been very great, it has not equalled in oppressiveness
and debilitating effect the heat one gets at Cawnpore
and Allahabad, and stations in the Punjab. Daily
the grapes and fruit have been getting riper, and we
have had a sort of compensation for the heat in the
variety and goodness of the fruit. A great number
of officers have been ailing more or less, the
result, I am sure, of the sedentary lazy lives they
lead. Great heat is, of course, enervating, and it
takes some determination after a long hot night to
start off for a good ride, and it is even worse in the
evening. I am glad to say I have steadily stuck to
my exercise, and have frequently, in the morning
before breakfast, done 20 to 25 miles, and then 8 or
10 in the evening. Whatever has been the cause, I
have certainly been wonderfully well, and, beyond
the inconveniences of the heat, have not felt the
slightest bad effects. I have now visited every inch
of country within 12 to 15 miles of Kandahar, and
know every part of it thoroughly.
March to Kelat-i-Ghilzi countermanded.
June 19th.
—It was decided to send the 30th
Native Infantry to Kelat-i-Ghilzi to relieve the 29th
N. I., and both regiments being in my Brigade,
General Primrose allowed me to march up to Kelat-i-Ghilzi
with one regiment and come back with the
[Pg 101]other, going up the Argandab Valley and returning
by the valley of the Tarnak. As very little was
known of the Argandab route, I was very glad to
have the opportunity of seeing it and also visiting
Kelat-i-Ghilzi. Captain Leckie, my Brigade Major,
was to accompany me, and Major Leach, of the
Engineers, on surveying duty, and Mr. Gordon, a
Missionary who is here, also asked to join my party.
The first there was no difficulty about, but the
advisability of the latter going was more doubtful.
However, as he wanted to make the trip only with
the view to holding services, &c., for the English
troops at Kelat-i-Ghilzi, he was allowed to come, and
we all made our preparations for a start on the 25th,
but between the 20th and that date the heat
increased so greatly that it was considered unwise
for us to move until a change in the weather set in,
and so, to my great disgust, our trip was postponed.
25th, 26th, 27th, 28th.
—Heat very great.
29th.
—We got further, and apparently more
certain information that Ayoub Khan with his army
was actually on the march from Herat towards
Kandahar, and preparations were at once put in
hands to equip a force for despatch to Girishk to
prevent his entrance into the Province of Kandahar.
The distance from Herat to Girishk is 280 miles, and
the road is, like all roads in this country, extremely
bad, and very little water to be found along it once the
[Pg 102]Valley of the Helmund is left. About half way between
Herat and Girishk is the town of Farrah, and to this
place it was said Ayoub Khan's advance guard had
arrived. The Wāli of Kandahar was at Girishk, with
part of his forces across the Helmund in Zamindawur,
and on hearing of Ayoub Khan's movements he
wrote and asked us to come to his help. Reference,
of course, had to be made to the Viceroy and
Commander-in-Chief at Simla, and in the meantime
our preparations for a move went on. The force to
go out was a Brigade of Cavalry under General
Nuttall, and a Brigade of Infantry under General
Burrows, who, being senior, would command the
force. A Battery of Horse Artillery was also ordered
to be in readiness. Generals Burrows and Nuttall
being senior to me, it was natural and right that
they should have the commands, and indeed in any
case, of course, the Cavalry General must have gone
with his own Brigade, but, all the same, I cannot
help being envious of their luck, though I shall have
most responsible and interesting work here, as on me
devolves the command of the Kandahar garrison, and
the task of guarding, with a force reduced much below
what is desirable, the whole position here. I shall only
have for this purpose 2 of the Infantry regiments of
my Brigade, one of which is weak, having detachments
at the posts on the Quetta road, 2 Batteries of
Artillery, and about 300 Cavalry. We expect two more
Infantry regiments up in about a fortnight, but till
then we are certainly much below our proper strength.
[Pg 103]
Force ordered from Kandahar to the Helmund.
June 30th.
—The very worst dust-storm I have
yet been in occurred to-day, as it blew from 12 o'clock
till 3 a.m. on the 1st July, when the wind changed,
and a most perceptible difference in the temperature
occurred. Nothing could be more disagreeable than
these 15 hours were, but the change in the heat quite
repaid us for the previous discomforts. Orders were
received from Simla to send the proposed force to
Girishk at once, so the Cavalry Brigade will march
on the 4th, and the remainder of the force on the
5th, a junction being effected on arrival, near
Girishk. Girishk is about 90 miles from Kandahar,
and the road is, for the most part, through dry uncultivated
country, and there would not have been
sufficient water at all the halting places for the
combined Cavalry and Infantry Brigades. Girishk
is on the River Helmund, and General Burrows has
positive orders not to cross that River, and I can
hardly suppose it possible that Ayoub Khan will
venture to force the passage of the River against our
vastly superior (in arms and discipline) force. In
numbers, of course, he has, it is said, about ten times
a larger force than we have, but that is not of much
consequence. Putting aside as unlikely his making
an attempt to cross the Helmund at Girishk, three
courses are open to him. The first, and it is thought
by the Political people the most probable, is, that on
arriving near Girishk he will endeavour to come to
terms with us, and put in his claim for the Amir-ship,
and say he does not want to fight. The next
[Pg 104]is, that instead of making for Girishk, he might cross
the Helmund, at, or near, a place you will see on the
map called
Kala Bust, and giving General Burrows
the slip, come down the Argandab to Kandahar.
This, though the most unlikely, is what I should
like. The third course is to pass along to the north
of Girishk and cross the Helmund near
Garm-ab (hot
water), and bearing away northwards, pass along the
Valley of the Tirin River, and eventually strike the
Ghuzni road beyond Kelat-i-Ghilzi, and so get to
Kabul without coming into collision with us at all.
If Ayoub Khan does not want either to fight or
make terms, or does not fall back on Herat, on
finding us in force at Girishk, this last course seems
a very likely one for him to take. These being the
various alternatives, we ought, according to my idea,
to have a small force in the Argandab Valley, near
the junction of that River with the Helmund, and
we should have a strong Brigade in the Tirin Valley,
but both these moves are impossible, as we have no
men, and it will take all we have to hold our own
here. Of course, all is, at present, conjecture, and
it might even be, so defective is our information,
that Ayoub Khan is still at Herat, or, on the other
hand, that he may reach Girishk before we do, and
cross the river, and either fraternize with, or fight
and lick the Wāli, and the outcome of the whole
affair will be known at home long before this is received.
Whatever happens, the move of the two
forces I have mentioned (if men were available)
[Pg 105]would, I am clear, be the right thing to do, as precautions,
at any rate. As the variety of names that
are mentioned in connection with the Government
of this country are very puzzling, it is well to mention
|Mahomedan law of succession.|
that Abdul Rahman, who stands first for the
throne, according to the Mahomedan law of succession,
is a first cousin of the deposed Amir; that
Ayoub Khan is the late Amir Yakoob Khan's full
brother, and that he comes 2nd, and that the third
is the little boy, Musa Jan, who is Jakoob Khan's
son. If Abdul Rahman has refused our offers,
Ayoub Khan has a good chance, the Political officers
seem to think, and so he may be coming down here
in a friendly manner. However, time will soon
show now. This is, I fear, a very dry bit of geography
and history, but the first part will be clear
enough if read with the map, as then you will see
what the moves on the board might be, and, according
to my idea, should be.
July 3rd.
—Took over command of the Kandahar
garrison, and spent the morning in trying, with as
much regard to safety as possible, to reduce the
guards all over the position, but doing my best the
men will be very hardly worked for the present, as
will be understood when it is remembered that our
Infantry are reduced by a whole Brigade of 2,000
men. In addition to the two Native Infantry regiments
which will possibly be here within the next
fortnight, we hear that the Viceroy has ordered up
[Pg 106]another complete Brigade from the Reserve, but it
cannot be here for at least 6 weeks. I cannot myself
think this addition necessary, as once we get the 4th
and 28th Native Infantry from Quetta, we ought to
be fit for anything.
July 4th.
—The Cavalry Brigade, with the Battery
of Horse Artillery and company of Sappers, marched
before daybreak, and starting about an hour after
them, and taking a line across country on the excellent
Akhbar, who carried me like a bird, I arrived
at the first camping ground before the Brigade got
in. It was a most lovely morning, as we have
suddenly gone into quite cool weather, indeed it was
quite cold when I started, and the ride was very
enjoyable. This change in the weather is extremely
pleasant, but of course no one expects it to last, and
no doubt before the end of the week we shall have it
as hot as ever. Still, every cool day is a gain. This
sudden change in the aspect of affairs here is remarkable,
as ten days ago the idea all over India was,
that we should all be on our way back to India in a
couple of months, and, instead of that, we are being
heavily reinforced, and this would hardly be done
if an early retirement was intended. Still so many
foolish things have been, and are continually being
done, in connection with our campaigns in Afghanistan,
that the present moves may mean nothing
important after all.
[Pg 107]
Cavalry & infantry brigades left Kandahar.
July 5th.
—The Infantry Brigade under General
Burrows marched this morning, halting for the day
at Kokaran. They did not get off quite so easily
and well as the Cavalry Brigade, as they were
hampered by having with them a large quantity of
extra ammunition for both rifles and horse artillery
guns, and as in this country there is no such thing
as a road, and wheeled vehicles of any kind are
impossible, everything has to be carried on pack
animals, and the trouble and worry of loading and
starting has to be seen to be understood. Here we use
five animals for carrying packs—viz., camels, mules,
ponies, bullocks, and donkeys, and I should be
afraid to say the numbers of each which has accompanied
this column. For the extra ammunition
alone there were 250 ponies and bullocks, and as in
that number there were a certain proportion of bad
tempered brutes who at first refused to carry anything
at all, delay was inevitable. However, the
great comfort in marching is that the first march is
always the most tiresome, as each day the men and
animals fall more easily into the routine, and in a
short time the machine works quite easily. I went
out with the Brigade to their first halting ground,
and having seen them all settled down, rode back to
Kandahar, and spent the most of the day in perfecting
my arrangements, as far as the means and force
at my disposal would permit, for the safety and
protection of our painfully straggling and badly laid
out position at Kandahar. Certainly General Stewart
[Pg 108]has not left behind him any marks of a long-seeing
and provident General. On the contrary, he seems
to have trusted to good fortune, and fortune seems
to have stuck to him in a remarkable manner. I
consider the position here, from a military point of
view, bad in all respects, and that even all the
advantage which might have been taken of it has
not been availed of. I have urged my view of the
case, and can do more. As far as one can judge
from the appearance of things, and the reports we
get, it is extremely unlikely we should ever be
attacked here, but I don't think that is any reason
why we should not take every precaution. At the
same time I must confess that the weakness of the
position has one great advantage, and that is, we
should operate in the open, a much better place for
our soldiers than behind walls. I only wish the
enemy would be so badly advised as to attack us, as,
with all disadvantages, I have no doubt of the
results.
Rode out to General Burrows' brigade.
July 6th.
—I was up at 4 a.m. and out at ½ past 4,
and set off across country to catch up the Brigade and
ride a few miles with them, and then come home.
They, however, had started at 4 o'clock also, and so
I did not come up with them till they were 12 miles
from Kandahar, which was not to be wondered at,
as they had 6 miles start of me, and got off half an
hour earlier than I did. I could not, therefore (as I
had to be back for breakfast and work), go very
[Pg 109]much further with them, so, after seeing them on
their way a mile or so further, I struck off through
new country and went straight for Camp, which I
reached at nine o'clock. I rode Rufus, who did his
27 miles in first-class style, and could have done half
as many more without any trouble. The morning
was cool, almost cold, and a good deal of the country
very pretty. The climate just now, and the excellent
forage we get, suits the horses very well, and they
are all, both public and private, in first-class order.
July 7th.
—Nothing of interest, except that we
had news from Kelat-i-Ghilzi that they had a small
skirmish there on the 1st July. The news made me
more than ever disappointed that I did not get off
to visit that place as was originally intended, as I
should then have been in for this affair.
July 8th.
—Rode a long way up the Argandab
Valley this morning in hopes of picking up some
information, or ascertaining if there were any signs
of movement or excitement. Everything seemed
very quiet, and the people in the numerous villages
I rode through were very busy thrashing their corn.
An absurd accident happened to me as I was riding
home, which at one time threatened, though quite
free from any danger to myself, to effect the destruction
of my one pair of long riding boots, which would
have been an irreparable disaster. I had to ford a
small water channel about 6 or 7 yards wide, the
[Pg 110]water of which was muddy, but looked quite shallow,
so I rode in very carelessly, but had not gone
2 yards when Mr. Akhbar went right down over his
saddle, plunging violently. He managed to get his
chest on the bank, and I lost no time in springing on
to hard ground and hauling him, with some difficulty,
out of the hole, nothing the worse, I am glad
to say. It appears that the people had dug a well
about 10 feet deep in the bed of the water-course, and
it was into this we had got. Of course I was wet
through, and so was the saddle, but the sun was
warm, and I was an hour and a half from home, and
long before I arrived there everything was dry. I
had to take my poor boots off most gingerly, and
have been nursing them greatly, and I think they
are nothing the worse. I was much more anxious
about them than anything else, as nothing of the
kind is to be got here, and parcels take 2 and 3
months coming up from Bombay. I am beginning
to get rather short of clothes, as it was a great loss
having all the contents of my portmanteau, which
were principally strong warm clothes, looted on the
way up here. The orchards of peaches and nectarines
in the Argandab Valley are just now quite
beautiful to look at. The trees are loaded with most
splendid looking fruit, which, however, are rather
disappointing when picked, as they don't seem to
ripen thoroughly.
July 9th.
—We had an unofficial rumour that
[Pg 111]the advance guard of the Wāli's army had been met
at Washir by the Cavalry of Ayoub Khan's army
and defeated, but as no confirmation of the rumour
has come from General Burrows, we are not inclined
to credit it, though it is received as quite true by
the people in the city, who are only too glad to
believe anything to the detriment of the Wāli. Of
course we must expect all sorts of rumours now,
and I am, for curiosity, writing them all down as
we get them to see how many eventually prove true,
and how many are incorrect.
Chief of Kokaran deserted the Wāli.
July 10th.
—To-day it was reported that considerable
disaffection exists among the Wāli's Chiefs
and Officers, and that the most important man of the
lot, the Chief of Kokaran, a place about 6 miles from
this, has deserted, and this—July 11th—was so far
confirmed that we received official news that he had,
with 80 followers, withdrawn himself from the
Wāli's force, although it does not appear, so far, that
he has joined Ayoub Khan. In accordance with
Afghan customs, the Wāli's representatives here at
once took reprisals by seizing the son of the Chief of
Kokaran (a small boy in a bad state of health) and
putting him in prison, and taking possession of the
house and property of the deserter at Kokaran.
July 12th.
—Employed during the morning in
endeavouring to make arrangements for making the
Citadel safer and more in accordance with the rules
[Pg 112]of war, but the task is hopeless, as the place is
radically bad in a military point of view, and
surrounded with houses on 3 sides. Strictly speaking
these houses should have been knocked down for
at least 300 yards all round the wall of the Citadel,
but General Stewart appears to have set his face
against any military precautions, insisting that they
were quite unnecessary, "as the people were friendly
to us." The consequence is that the whole position
here is, strictly speaking, untenable—that is, if an
enemy with either organization or means were to
come against it. As, however, there is no possibility
of any scientific attack being made on us, we feel
that, bad as the position is, we can quite engage to
hold it, and lick the enemy outside into the bargain.
The City of Kandahar is a parallelogram about 1¼
miles long, and ¾ of a mile wide, something like this—
The Citadel is close to the
north end, and the outer wall of the City forms
then a sort of double wall to the Citadel.
[Pg 113]
There are 6 gates in the wall of the City, which is
fully 20 to 30 feet high, and very thick and strong.
At each of the city gates there is a guard of
Native Infantry, and we hold the keys of the gates
which we lock every night at sunset, after which
hour neither entrance nor exit is permitted to anyone.
The guards are stationed on the ramparts, and
their posts should, from the first, according to the
most ordinary rules of war, have been put in a state
of defence, but nothing was done to them, and
General Primrose has been unwilling to make a
change in the matter. Now, however, he has
allowed me to take measures to make them safe in
the event of any outbreak.
Rumoured advance of Ayoub Khan.
July 13.
—A welcome addition to our force
reached us to-day, in the shape of the Head Qrs.
Wing of the 4th N.I., which marched in from Quetta.
The remainder of the regiment will follow shortly.
There was a report that Ayoub Khan, with his army,
had actually left Furrah, and that his advance guard
was at Washir, but there is no confirmation of the
collision between his and the Wāli's forces there,
which has probably never occurred. There is much
excitement in the city, and the merchants, jewellers,
&c., are hiding and burying their property, which
means, I assume, that they don't believe in our
power to defend the city against Ayoub Khan. A
gathering of the enemy is reported as being at
Karkrez, about 30 miles off, and there is much excitement
among the tribes in the Arghastan Valley.
There is no doubt it is very desirable that our force
[Pg 114]at Girishk should have an opportunity of administering
a lesson to some one, or we shall probably have
to do something in that way ourselves here.
July 14th.
—Information received that one of
the Wāli's regiments, composed of men from Kabul,
is mutinous. They are in the fort of Girishk with
the Wāli. Ayoub Khan is said to have with him
1,800 cavalry and 4,000 infantry, and 30 guns. So
General Burrows' force of 2,500 men and 6 guns
have not much to fear. I visited all the guards on
the city gates in the evening, and walked round the
whole city on the ramparts, and had a good view of
the inhabitants preparing to go to bed on the roofs
of their houses, which are flat, and always used as
the sleeping apartments of the family. The ramparts
are 20 to 25 feet high, and as the houses are
all one-storied, the roofs were much below us, and
we saw more of Afghan domestic life than usual, as
the people did not anticipate that anyone would be
passing round then, and the roofs were covered with
ladies, who, however, very quickly let down their
veils when they saw us in the distance.
Guns recovered from mutinous troops.
July 15.
—News from General Burrows received
this morning states, that the whole of the Wāli's
army was mutinous, and that the situation was so
critical that he had decided it was necessary he
should disregard the positive orders he had received
not to cross the Helmund, and that he proposed to
[Pg 115]do so, and disarm the mutineers. I should explain
that our force is, under orders from the Viceroy,
halted on the Kandahar side of the Helmund, while
the Wāli and his army are in the fort of Girishk,
which is on the Herat side of the Helmund. Later
in the day news arrived from the Wāli (which was
apparently authentic), that early the previous morning
(14th) the whole of his army left him, taking
with them the Battery of guns our Government had
been so idiotic as to give the Wāli. The letter,
which was from the Wāli to his son, who is here,
went on to say, that immediately General Burrows
heard this, he had crossed the river with his cavalry
and Horse artillery, and pursued the mutineers, and
coming up with them had killed 200 and recovered
the guns. This report seems authentic, though
probably exaggerated, but as yet no confirmation
has been received from General Burrows. True or
not, the report has had a good effect in the city, and
will help to show that the people are not likely to
improve matters by trying conclusions with us. I
had a deputation from the Parsee shopkeepers, who
have followed the army from India, and have shops
in our camp, where they sell us wine and provisions,
&c., at most exorbitant rates, to beg me to give them
a place in the fort for their stores, as they were in
a dreadful fright for their lives and their property.
Even if I had considered they were in danger, I
would not have acceded to their request, as I would
much prefer their running certain risks, to giving
[Pg 116]public confidence the shock of supposing I thought
it necessary for our camp followers to take refuge in
the fort, so I laughed at their fears, refused their
petition, and comforted them by saying, that even if
they now lost the whole contents of their shops, they
would still be great gainers, as they have made their
fortunes already by swindling us. They did not
seem to see this in the light I did, but had to accept
the inevitable, and take their share of the risks. As
there is a large number of evilly-disposed men in the
city, it was decided that it was desirable to show
|40-pounder guns moved into fort.|
them we were determined to put down any disturbances
with a strong hand, so we moved down two of
our 40 pounder guns into the fort, and placed them
in position to shell the city, and at the same time
established a system of strong patrols, which night
and day visit the city, and go through all the main
streets. There is no denying these patrols would be
in an unpleasant position if attacked, as street fighting
is, of all, the most disagreeable, but I have given
clear and distinct orders for the guidance of the
officers in command, from which they learn what
they are expected to do, and which will cover their
responsibility in resorting, if necessary, to strong
measures. The great objection one feels to returning
a fire in a street is, that in such cases it is always
unfortunate children and women who suffer, and not
the men who deserve it, and who take precious good
care to remain under cover. I visited the city
myself, and found all quiet, and went with the Wāli's
[Pg 117]chief man to arrange for certain improvement to the
fortifications, and was quite civilly received everywhere.
It was satisfactory to find that already the
arrival of the guns in the fort was known and
appreciated, and one Afghan said to me, "They" (the
guns) "are very big: two discharges from them and
the city would be destroyed." I answered in the
language of the country, "I believe you, my boy."
July 16th.
—Rode out to Kokeran, and on arrival
there, met a well armed caravan, the people composing
which could give but an unsatisfactory
account of themselves, so one of our native cavalry
patrols coming up at the moment, I made the lot
prisoners, and sent them into the city to be examined.
They may only be peaceful traders armed for their
own defence, as they were perfectly civil, but even
in that case some information will be got out of
them. No news yet from General Burrows, who
possibly has gone on in hopes of meeting Ayoub
Khan. We have decided to disarm every Afghan
approaching Kandahar, and I have issued the
necessary orders to ensure this being done.
July 16th.
—Rode out to Kokeran in the morning,
returning by the Argandab, all seemed quiet. Visited
the city in the evening, and found all quiet there also.
July 17th.
—Was woke at 2·30 a.m. by the
Brigade-Major bringing the officer commanding the
[Pg 118]cavalry patrol (which is on duty round the camp all
night), who reported that a considerable fire was
burning in the direction of Kokeran. As these fires
very often indicate a collection of men bent on mischief,
I desired him to proceed cautiously with his
patrol in the direction of the fire, and ascertain its
cause, and bring me information, and at the same
time I ordered a troop of cavalry to follow in support.
The fire proved to be caused by some evilly-disposed
persons having set a light to the corn and
straw stacks of a peaceably-disposed native, living
some 8 or 9 miles from camp, and the patrol found
no signs of a gathering of men, so returned to camp.
Confirmation was received from General Burrows of
his successful fight at Girishk against our
supposed
friends, the troops of the Wāli, in which he had
succeeded in recovering the Battery of artillery
which our Government had given as a present to the
Wāli, and the first time it was used was to fire upon
us! General Burrows also recovered a great deal of
stores and baggage belonging to the Wāli, and much
ammunition, and on the whole made a very successful
business, losing but very few men himself, the loss of
the enemy being computed by themselves at 400,
but was probably not more than half that number.
There being a want of supplies at Girishk, General
|Retrograde movement on Kushki-Nakud.|
Burrows thought it right to fall back to a place 25
miles nearer to Kandahar, called Kushki-Nakud.
There were many good reasons, I confess, for this
move, but personally I would never willingly, in
[Pg 119]Eastern warfare, take a retrograde step, except under
the strongest compulsion, as Afghans know nothing,
and care less, about the laws of strategy, and see only
defeat in any but forward movements. The fact is,
had we known that the Wāli's army intended to
mutiny, we would never have advanced beyond
Kushki-Nakud, as there are many good objections to
the position at Girishk. That we did not know the
shaky state of the Wāli's troops is all the fault of the
Political officer with the Wāli, who, wishing to see
all things
couleur de rose, persuaded himself that all
was right, and could not, or would not, believe any
evil of them. Even he must now see what we have
felt sure of all along, that Shere Ali is quite without
power or influence, and quite unable to maintain his
own authority for a day without our assistance. We
have, of course, here, the reflex of the events at
Girishk, as there has been a very marked increase of
excitement and turbulence in the city, since the
news of the mutiny of the Wāli's troops has arrived,
and had not, at the same time, the intelligence of the
licking they had received from us reached the city,
we should certainly have had an outbreak there.
July 18th.
—Moved another 40 pounder gun into
the fort, and mounted it on a very commanding
position, from which we could soon destroy the best
part of the city. Of course there is no intention of
a measure of this kind, but a big gun ready for
action has a very
soothing effect on the warlike feelings
[Pg 120]of Afghans, or Easterns generally. Intelligence
was brought in, that attacks on the posts of Mandi
Hissar and Abdul Rahmon were likely, and though
it was not thought there was much chance of these
places, which are now very fairly strong, being
attacked, it was thought wise to send some cavalry
to reconnoitre, which was done; but the officer, on
arrival at Abdul Rahmon (25 miles off), was able to
telegraph that all was quiet and no sign of gatherings
or excitement. If, however, the existing state of
feeling in the country grows or becomes intensified,
it is quite possible these posts may be attacked, but
if so they should be well able to hold their own.
Cavalry patrol fired upon—officer wounded.
July 19th.
—Was suddenly woke at 2 a.m. by
the sound of a volley of musketry close to our
quarters, followed by the noise of horses galloping.
I at once recognised what had happened—indeed it
was the only thing which could have happened—that
the cavalry patrol had been fired on by some of the
enemy. I lost no time in getting to the best place
for a view, and presently one of the patrol rode up
and reported that as they had been passing along,
about 200 yards from our quarters, a volley had been
fired into them from behind a low wall, and that
several men and horses had been hit. I immediately
sent off orders for 2 companies of the 7th Fusiliers
and a troop of cavalry to turn out, and getting
dressed as quickly as possible, was mounted and
ready before the troops could come. We then carefully
[Pg 121]swept the whole ground round the camp, but
of course failed to find the attackers, although we
certainly were on their track ten minutes after they
had fired. The country round our camp lends itself
in the most unsatisfactory manner to small attacks
of this kind, as on all sides there are enormous
cemeteries, with thousands of graves and vaults, into
any of which a few men could get and hide with
absolute safety. The night was dark, the moon
having set, and a haze come up, as it generally does
here towards morning. On investigation I found
that the native officer commanding the patrol was
badly wounded in the arm, and that 2 horses were
slightly wounded, and one soldier and one horse
were killed. While I and the Brigade-Major, and
the Cavalry Colonel, were standing together, near
the man who was killed, an intelligent? native sentry
who was posted about 400 yards off, took it into his
wise head to decide that we were a party of the
enemy, and putting a bullet into his rifle, took a
deliberate and, I must say, extremely good shot at
us, aiming, I am glad to say, just a few feet too high.
I had not heard the whiz of a rifle bullet since the
China days, but I had no difficulty in recognizing it
again, and as soon as weightier matters allowed, I
had my friend, the sentry, made a prisoner of, and
properly punished the next morning. All things
considered, we have had very little wild firing by
sentries here, but, as is always the case, there have
been some few instances which I have not failed to
[Pg 122]punish without accepting any excuses. This little
affair of the patrol is another excellent instance of
how little Sir Donald Stewart did to make the
position here as good in a military sense as it could
be—as had he done so, he would not have left a wall
or enclosure standing within a thousand yards of our
camp anywhere. He, however, would have none of
them touched, first because he wanted to conciliate
the people; and next, because he wanted to save the
expense of pulling them down. When General
Primrose came he accepted the existing state of
affairs, and would allow nothing to be done, although
General Burrows and I naturally have wished to
have things more ship-shape. I lost no time in
pointing a moral, and adorning a tale after the affair
of the patrol, and got permission to take down all
walls and enclosures in the
immediate vicinity of the
Barracks, of which permission I have availed myself
to the full, and a little over, and made a very perceptible
improvement, though I am by no means
contented yet. I asked General Primrose to insist
on the Wāli's people levelling various big enclosures
between our position and the city walls, but as they
surround very holy shrines and mosques, they begged
for a respite on promise of good behaviour, and I am
sorry to say it has been granted. However, what
has been done is most useful, and makes the work of
the patrols easier and safer. It was very unfortunate
that the native officer commanding the patrol should
have been shot in the right arm, and his horse
[Pg 123]wounded, as he was unable to pull up the horse for
some distance, and so did not succeed in seeing where
the men who attacked him went to.
Daily visits into city—all quiet.
July 20th.
—Paid my usual visit to the city, and
found all very quiet, and the people by no means
uncivil. In the evening I took all the cavalry
officers, English and native, round the camp, and
gave them my ideas of the way in which they should
patrol, and what a patrol should do when fired on
(i.e., not run away).
July 21.
—Having arranged with Major Adam,
the Assistant Quartermaster-General, to make a reconnaisance
through the villages in the Argandab,
we started from camp at half-past 4 o'clock (a lovely
fresh morning), and, crossing the Baba-i-Wali Pass,
rode for several miles up the Valley as far as a
village called Sardeh Bala.—(N.B.—You will find
all these places on the big map I sent you last mail,
which will give you a capital idea of the events I
have now to tell of). Turning back from there we
proposed to return into the Kandahar plain by the
pass across the range of hills (which separates the
plain from the Argandab Valley) which is called the
Kotal-i-Murcha. This range of hills, which is very
clearly marked on the big map, rises to a considerable
height, being often as much as 2,000 to 2,500
feet above the plain. The two passes through the
range are the Baba-i-Wali and the Kotal-i-Murcha.
[Pg 124]The first is passable by men and horses, and we have
made a road for guns over it. The second is a mere
mountain track, up which not more than one man
can go abreast, and part of which is so strewn with
detached rocks that it is absolutely necessary to
dismount and lead a horse along it. This pass,
however, is a short cut from the city into the
Argandab, and we have all used it regularly when
riding out there. I myself rode that way on the
16th, and there was, therefore, nothing rash or
unwise in our returning that way. From the commencement
of the ascent to the top of the pass is
about ½ a mile, and the rise in that distance is 700
to 800 feet, and therefore very steep. We had just
commenced the ascent when one of our escort drew
our attention to some men dodging behind the
rocks over our head, who had guns, and were
evidently trying to avoid being seen. An armed
man is so usual a sight in this country that I did not
for the moment think anything of the matter, and
indeed prevented Major Adam, who said he would
like to take a shot at the nearest man from doing so.
As a precaution, however, I ordered 3 of the escort
to dismount and get out their carbines, and Major
Adam took a carbine, and so did I, and we slowly
ascended, keeping our eye on our friends, or rather
on the place they had been, for we could not see
them then. Presently (all this occurred in less time
than I write it) we saw one scoundrel pop his head
up from behind a stone and take aim. We were too
[Pg 125]
|Fired upon in Kotal-i-Murcha pass.|
quick for him, for Major Adam and one of the escort
let fly at him, and so threw out his aim, that he
fired high, and no one was touched. Immediately,
however, 3 more shots were fired, one killing one of
the horses of the escort, our fire in return being
quite harmless, as our assailants were behind rocks,
and we were out in the open. Still it served to
unsteady their aim, and we got to the top and under
cover without further damage, though most of the
shots had been fairly well directed for us. I had
one shot as I came up, which, I am sorry to say, was
not successful, though I made my friend "leave
that," as Paddy Roe used to say when I fired at a
hare and, according to my custom, missed it. As
soon as I got the party under cover I sent men down
on each side of the hill (having first sent off to
Kandahar, 4½ miles off, for 20 infantry to help in
the hunt through the rocks) to prevent the enemy
getting down and running away, and Major Adam
and I, each with 2 men and a pocketful of ammunition,
essayed climbing the hill. He first descended
a good bit and hit off a fairish path which took him
a long way up, and during the ascent he had 4 or 5
shots, but never could get near the fellows at all,
they being all mountaineers, and we being burdened
with heavy riding boots, spurs, &c., and knowing
nothing of the paths. I, with my two men, made
excellent progress at first, but found ourselves regularly
stuck on the top of a precipice, across which,
at about 300 yards, we could see one of the men
[Pg 126]making off. I took, as I thought, very good aim,
making one of the men with me fire too, but we
again missed, whereupon the runaway turned round
and let fly at us, but expecting this we were safely
behind a rock, and I don't think his bullet came near
us. I had then to descend, and before I could hit off
another path, the whole lot were out of sight. It
was dreadfully hot, and we were dying of thirst, and
not a drop of water within 3 miles, but of course had
to stay until the infantry came. I sent off one of
my two men to Kandahar with news to tell them the
direction the enemy had run in, and I and the other
man comfortably behind a good rock with our
carbines ready, waited in hopes of getting a better
shot, but never saw our assailants again. In due
course first some cavalry, and then, after a considerable
interval, some infantry came out to me, and we
hunted the hill, but it was so precipitous and so
full of caves that our search was without result. I
did not, of course, accompany this party as I wanted
to get back to camp, and besides was nearly dead
with thirst. I cannot, I fear, give a good idea of the
difficulties of climbing or searching this range of
hills which are nothing but limestone rocks, not a
tree, blade of grass, or inch of earth on them, so one
might as well be trying to climb the cliffs at Bundoran,
only that these hills are much higher. I dare
say you will think it was a good deal of trouble and
time to spend over a small party of marauders of
this kind, and so it was, but my reason was that I
[Pg 127]was anxious to impress by practice what I have so
often preached, the necessity for officers and men on
such occasions as this always trying to give as good
as they get, and not considering they had done their
duty when they followed the example of Captain
Carey and others by galloping away as fast as they
could. With this object in view, I don't think I was
wrong to turn myself for an hour or so into a
private soldier, and do a little skirmishing on foot
with a carbine. We had eight men of the Native
Cavalry with us, and they were as staunch as steel
|Attack exaggerated by messengers sent.|
and very quiet and cool, except the 2 men who I
sent into Kandahar with the order to send me out
help, which order I
wrote, and in a most guarded
way, saying "I want 20 infantry, and a few cavalry as
scouts." However, once away from the influence of
the officers, the imagination of my orderlies magnified
the whole affair, and as they rode through the
camp they told every one that the General Sahib had
been fired at and was engaged in a great battle with
thousands of the enemy who were pressing on to
Kandahar. This, unfortunately, was believed, and
all the troops were turned out, and a regular commotion
got up in the city, and altogether a very
objectionable state of alarm was arrived at. When
I came in and heard of it, I gave all concerned a
lecture which they won't forget, for if there is one
thing I hate more than another it is false alarms,
and so far I have not had one. And now I must
defend myself against the idea everyone seems to
[Pg 128]have that I go about here rashly, as I really do not,
as I always have my escort, and till the last ten days
it was quite safe to move about, and in this particular
instance it never for a moment entered Major
Adam's or my mind that there was the slightest risk
going over the Murcha Pass. Had we thought so
we would have avoided it, but once being in the
business there was only one thing for us to do, and
that was to see it through. Lots of men, women,
and children had crossed the pass that morning, and
we had met them and spoken to them. My rides
are now much circumscribed, and I don't think just
at present of going any distance from camp merely
for
amusement. Yesterday we went on business, and
with what is considered, and what proved to be, a
quite sufficient escort. I was riding my white horse,
Selim, and he behaved like an angel, and took no
notice of the firing, and when I had to dismount at
the bad piece of the pass, followed me up without
any difficulty. Afterwards I fastened him to a stone,
and he stood quite quietly there for 4 hours without
giving any trouble. I did not get in till ½ past one,
very thirsty, very hungry, and very hot, but this
kind of work never does me any harm, and I was as
fit as possible as soon as I had a bath and my
breakfast.
July 22nd.
—Heard from the Government of India
that Abdul Rahman is to be proclaimed Amir of
Kabul forthwith by Sir D. Stewart. I cannot think
[Pg 129]this a wise step, but the desire to get out of the war
at any cost is, I think, blinding the Government to
the many weak points in the arrangement.
July 23rd.
—Visited the city in order that I
might give General Primrose my views of an idea of
his to occupy a certain portion of it without troops
should we be attacked here. The arrangement does
not seem to me to be either necessary or desirable, as
I would prefer keeping all our small force, except
the garrison of the Fort and the City walls, in the
open, striking at the enemy whenever opportunity
offered. I have explained this, and I hope it will, if
necessity arise, be carried out. When riding to the
Fort this morning I was stopped by a native who
informed me he had something very important to
tell me, which was, that this being the Mahomedan
|Rumours of a rising.|
Sunday (Friday) a rising was to take place to-day.
The old gentleman, who belonged to the Moghul or
Persian tribe, who hate the Afghans, was in an
awful fright, and I think he allowed his fears to
magnify matters much. However, I am keeping my
eyes open, have taken all precautions, and am
ready, but fear the Afghans won't come to the point.
July 24th.
—The guard on the Shikarpore Gate
of the City was fired on by some armed men during
the night, the fire being returned by the guard. In
reporting the matter to General Primrose, I strongly
urged that the walls and buildings outside the City
[Pg 130]gates, which afforded cover to villains of sorts to
approach and fire at our guards, should be demolished.
This, however, would have involved much distress and
annoyance to the Afghans, and he did not care to push
the matter strongly (after events, however, proved
that the suggestion was a proper one). We received
news that 150 of our cavalry, under General Nuttall,
had completely routed 600 of Ayoob Khan's Cavalry.
July 25th.
—3 companies of the 28th N.I. arrived
from Chaman, a most welcome addition, small as it
is, to our painfully weak force.
July 26th.
—The guard on the Herat Gate was
fired on during the early morning. I again urged
the necessity for demolishing all cover near the
gates, but the measure was deemed too strong. I
am determined, if possible, to catch the scoundrels
who go about, and hold parties of Cavalry and
Infantry in readiness all night to go without delay
to any place where firing of this desultory nature is
heard. This is harassing to the troops, but cannot
be helped. 2 more companies of the 28th N.I.
arrived.
July 27th.
—I got information that some of the
enemy were concealed in the hills above old Kandahar,
so, obtaining permission from General Primrose
to make a raid on them, I despatched parties of the
7th Fusiliers and 4th N.I. to see if the report was
[Pg 131]correct, and if so to attack and defeat them. I rode
out myself in the afternoon to see how the search
through the very difficult ground was being carried
on, and quite approved the arrangements made by
Major Marshall who was in command. No one,
however, was found, though there were evident
signs that several places had been recently inhabited,
and very hurriedly evacuated.
First alarming account of disaster.
July 28th.
—I was woke at 1·30 a.m. by Colonel
La Touche, of the Cavalry, who came to report to
me that a small portion (a native officer and 30
men) of one of the Cavalry regiments with General
Burrows' Force had just reached camp, having, they
said, rode 60 miles without drawing rein to bring
the information of the total annihilation, by Ayoob
Khan's army, of the force under General Burrows.
They declared that a great battle had been fought
the previous day about noon; that after holding out
for 5 hours under a terrible fire, that the whole
force had been broken up and taken to flight, and
been cut to pieces in detail. Both Generals,
Burrows and Nuttall, were said to be dead, that no
one, but these men themselves, was saved. The
story was a terrible one, and enough to shock the
stoutest heart and nerves. I could not, and would
not, believe it in its entirety, and told Colonel
La Touche that I felt sure things were not as black
as they were painted, though I feared they were bad
enough. The first thing, however, was to take the
[Pg 132]news to General Primrose, so, pulling on a few
clothes, I ran over to his house with Colonel
La Touche and told him the bad news, at the same
time recommending caution in accepting, without
some reserve, the story of the native officer and men
of the Sind Horse. A disaster had, without doubt,
occurred, and the only question was whether or not
a remnant had escaped, and if so of what strength.
A hurried consultation was held, and it was unanimously
agreed that, with the certainty of the whole
country rising like one man against us, it would be
worse than madness for our small force to attempt
to hold the altogether indefensible military position
which the parsimony and want of military forethought
on the part of Sir Donald Stewart had bequeathed to
us. As I have often remarked hitherto on the hopeless
position, from a military point of view, of the
Kandahar Cantonments, it is useless repeating all the
objections to them again. Suffice it to say, that
they have no independant water supply; that they
are commanded on one side by two low hills, and
that they are straggling, and entirely without
military defences of any kind, and that no amount
of labor or money could have made them tenable in
|City to be occupied versus cantonments.|
the few days at our disposal. Our only alternative
was to accept another utterly false military position,
and to occupy the whole City of Kandahar, it being
impossible to place our force, small as it was, in the
Citadel, nor (could we have done so) to have held
the Citadel against an enemy in possession of the
[Pg 133]City. It is hardly necessary to point out the dangers
in, and objections to, the occupation of the City, as
they are self-evident, the first and chief one being
the vastness of its size in comparison with the force
at our disposal. The City, of which I give a rough
plan on one of the foregoing pages, is a sort of
irregular parallelogram, one side (N.) being 1,200
yards long; the W. 1,900 yards long, the S. 1,300
yards long, and the E. 2,000 yards long, a total
length of wall of something under 4 miles, to protect
which, and an additional half mile of wall in the
Citadel, we should have, unless some portion of
General Burrows' force returned, not quite 1,500
men. When I mention that to defend lines of this
length, according to military rules, a force of 18,000
men is considered the correct thing—the almost hopelessness
of the position may be imagined. Behind
and within these walls lay a city with a population of
30,000, of whom 14,000 were men, out of whom it
was no exaggeration to feel that half at least must
of necessity be our deadly enemies, and that consequently,
in addition to offering resistance to hordes
without, we had to guard against treachery from
within. The position, for these two reasons alone,
was utterly wrong, but it was the sole possible
alternative, and had to be accepted, and its difficulties
and dangers dealt with as might be possible.
The question of water was the urgent one, but as we
knew the City had a sufficient supply for its inhabitants,
of which we purposed to turn out at least one
[Pg 134]half, we trusted we should get enough for ourselves.
The walls vary in height from 18 feet in the lowest
place to 25 feet in the highest, and are about 20
feet thick at the base, and 12 to 14 feet broad at the
parapet. There are 6 Gates—four principal ones—from
which the various faces take their names, and
2 minor ones. The northern gate is called the
Eedgah; the southern the Shikarpore, being the gate
from which the main road to India leads; the
western gate is the Kabul gate, and near it a smaller
one known as the Bar Dourani; the eastern gate is
the Herat gate, and close to it another called the
Topkhana or Artillery gate. Along the walls, at
intervals of 100 yards, are high turrets, which give
the only flanking defence, very poor in quality and
degree. This point hurriedly, but definitely and
decidedly, settled, we had no time for conversation
or consideration, as immediate action was necessary,
the carrying out of which General Primrose placed
unreservedly in my hands. The first thing to be
done was to have the sick and ammunition conveyed
to a place of safety in the Citadel, and as it was
clear we could not use our heavy battery (viz., 4
40-pounders and 2 six-inch mortars), drawn by
bullocks in the field, I sent it also without delay into
the Citadel, and issued orders to all commanding
officers to move all public and private property
belonging to their regiments to the Citadel also.
[Pg 135]
|Further details of General Burrows' defeat.|
About 4 a.m. one or two native stragglers from
General Burrows' Force came in and gave a less
terrible account of the destruction which had
befallen it than the Sind Horse had done, and at ¼
to 5 a.m. Veterinary-Surgeon Oliver, of the Horse
Artillery, arrived and was brought to me. He was
greatly exhausted, but I learned from him that
there was a very considerable proportion of the force
saved, and that the main body was covering the
retreat, and was probably then about 10 miles off,
Generals Burrows and Nuttall being with them. I
sent Mr. Oliver on to General Primrose, who had
ridden down to the Citadel to start work there, to
tell his story, and convey a message from me that I
requested permission to take a small force and move
out in the direction of Kokeran to cover General
Burrows' retirement. Feeling sure the proposal
would be approved, I ordered
1 | troop of Cavalry, |
2 | guns, |
4 | companies of Infantry, |
to be held in readiness to march at once. About ¾
of an hour later General Primrose arrived from the
Citadel and authorized my starting at once, urging
on me, however, to use great caution, and avoid, as
far as possible, any considerable loss of life. Being
anxious to be off at once, I had no time to give any
attention to getting my own property into the Citadel,
but had to leave the matter to my native servant,
telling him to do the best he could, and to take the
most useful things into safety first, and I may here
say that he must have worked admirably, as, when
[Pg 136]I got to the Fort at 7 o'clock in the evening, I found
he had brought off in safety every single thing I
possessed. At ½ past 5 o'clock (¾ of an hour after I
first heard that any remnants of Burrows' force was
saved, and trying to return) I paraded my little
force, which was, I was horrified to find, much
smaller than I had intended, as the full number of
men were not at the moment available. Time was
precious to our poor comrades wearily fighting
their way back to Camp, so I decided not to wait
till I could get my numbers, and started with only
40 | Sabres Native Cavalry, |
2 | Guns R. A., |
70 | of the 7th Fusiliers. |
100 | of the 28th Native Infantry, |
I knew there could be no organized resistance, and
that if I was cautious I could come to no harm, but,
all the same, I am free to confess that I could not
avoid feeling anxious about my guns, as the loss of
2 more would have been simply ruin to us. I must
here describe the route I had to follow, as its peculiarities
added much to the difficulties and dangers
of the enterprise. Immediately after leaving the
Barracks the road passes for about ½ a mile through
walled gardens, each garden forming a little fortification
of itself, and giving cover for any number of
armed men. These passed through, the Village of
Abasabad is reached through the main street of
which the road goes. This street is so narrow that
in places it was a close shave to get the R.A.
[Pg 137]carriages through, and it twists and winds about
most unpleasantly. Beyond the village is another
quarter of a mile of walled gardens, and then an
open plain is come to with, however, commanding
hills all along the road to the right (about 300
yards off), and on the left a string of strongly placed
villages about the same distance from the road. It
is evident, therefore, that every inch of road offered
extraordinary facilities for the enemy to resist our
|Terrible accounts of the retreat.|
advance. As we left the camp we began to meet the
first of the long string of fugitives, who continued
afterwards to pass us till we reached Kokeran, a
more terrible sight I never witnessed; all appearance
of organization or discipline gone; each man,
whether European or native, was fighting, as it
were, for his own life, careful of nothing but getting
into safety. All were wearied and harrassed, and
many unable hardly to move one foot before the
other, as indeed was not wonderful, considering
that since 4 p.m. the previous day they had been
marching, with a cruel enemy on all sides of them,
shooting and stabbing every man who, too wearied
to drag on, sat down for a moment's rest. To add
to the horrors of the march they had, in the whole
distance of over 50 miles, found water only twice,
and what this means no one who has not lived and
worked in this climate can tell. From all I can hear
there were some marvellous instances of self-denial
in this matter: men giving up their last drop of
water, which was more than their lives to them, to
[Pg 138]men more feeble than themselves, and, apparently,
none equalled or exceeded in this respect Captain
Slade, of the Horse Artillery, as noble a soldier as
ever lived. Officers and men have since told me of
his heroic efforts to save his guns, to give assistance
and to sacrifice his life, or deny himself to save or
help anyone; all also join in saying General Burrows'
conduct was splendid, and that he had fairly won
the Victoria Cross 3 or 4 times. Once when all
hope seemed lost, for dismounted men he got off his
horse, put two wounded officers on it, and led it
himself for 3 miles, with a howling crowd of savages
following him, anxious for his life. I had never
seen the retreat of a panic-stricken military force
before, and I trust I never may do so again, as it is
too horrible for description, and this retreat excelled
in terror any that I have ever read of. As each
inch of the road (till my little force was seen) had
to be fought for against a set of blood-thirsty savages,
rather than fall into whose hands alive, it is said
several men shot themselves, knowing the horrible
fate that would otherwise be in store for them. Then
the want of water was a fearful aggravation of the
sufferings of the wretched men, and the length of
the march, 50 miles, made the hope of escape seem
impossible. I must now go back to my own enterprise,
which, I rejoice to think, was successful, and
resulted in the saving of many valuable lives. I
had hardly got my little force in column of route
outside the Barrack gates, when the enemy commenced
[Pg 139]
|Relieving force meet with oppositions.|
a desultory and harmless fire on us from
behind the walls of the neighbouring gardens. I at
once sent forward some skirmishers to the front, and
a cavalry picquet to the extreme right and left, and
was glad to see the spirit with which all advanced,
which at once told on the rabble opposed to us, who
gave up their positions and ran for their lives,
several being killed as they ran. In this way,
pressing on steadily, I cleared the gardens and the
Village of Abasadad, and was able to bring my guns
and remainder of my column through that extremely
awkward position. On the other side of the village
the skirmishers had advanced, driving the enemy
before them, till the more open ground was reached.
Here I formed up my column once more, preparatory
to pushing on for Kokeran. On the range of high
hills which ran along the left of the road, at about
300 yards off, were small bodies of the enemy, as
also in the strongly placed villages on my left.
Before advancing I had to send out small parties on
either flank to dislodge these people, which they did
with the greatest ease. My way was again clear,
and I advanced without opposition for about a mile,
when, on a low hill, about 2,000 yards to my right-front,
I saw a considerable force posted, which was
being increased every moment by contingents from
the villages in the rear of the hill, from which we
could see people hurrying in great numbers. Seeing
a good position about 1,000 yards ahead, I pushed
on to it rapidly, and getting my guns into action,
[Pg 140]threw forward the Cavalry to threaten the left flank,
while the Infantry moved slowly to the front. A
couple of shells planted, with charming precision, by
my friend Captain Law had a most happy effect,
and, as we could see, shook the confidence of the
enemy, good as their position was. They did
not, however, seem disposed to take the hint, and
kept up a constant, but, owing to the distance,
harmless fire on us as we advanced. Presently,
however, on a repetition of the dose equally
well administered, assisted by a few volleys from
our rifles, they broke, the greater part rushing
to the rear, but some, as I had hoped, trying
to cross the road and gain the shelter of the
hills on the left. This was the moment for the
Cavalry, who charged with excellent effect, doing
good execution at the same time. I gave the
fugitives to the rear a couple of shells at 2,000
yards where, thinking themselves safe, they had
halted to breathe. Serious as the work on hand
was, we could not help a hearty laugh at the consternation
caused by the unexpected visitors. The
mass of people broke away in all directions, leaving,
as we could see afterwards as we advanced, a good
percentage on the ground. I dare say there are
some critics who will think that this position ought
to have been carried at the point of the bayonet, in
order that a severe lesson might have been inflicted,
and under other circumstances I might have thought
so myself, but, placed as we were when the loss of
[Pg 141]every man was serious, I had determined to utilize
to the utmost the long range of our weapons, and to
do all the fighting I could at long bowls, and by
sticking steadily to this, I succeeded in carrying out
my object which entailed a march of 14 miles, every
inch of which had to be contested or defended, with
the loss only of 1 man killed and two or three
slightly wounded. I quite acknowledge there are
objections to the arrangement, but I feel sure it was
the right one for the occasion. After this no regular
opposition was offered till I reached Kokeran, which
is a large village with a fortified enclosure in its
midst, which was full of the enemy, who had been
ill treating the stragglers of General Burrows' force
all morning. Knowing the ground well, I at once
selected my position, and was quickly placed to
command the whole of the country round. I was
|Kokeran—General Burrows' force sighted.|
just going to give the order for the guns to come
into action, when, to my delight, at about a mile off,
at the spot where I knew was the ford of the
Argandab, where the road from Girishk crossed the
river, I saw a mass of men which I at once recognized
as what remained of General Burrows' Force. I
decided, therefore, before hammering Kokeran to
communicate with them, and sent some Cavalry to
make a circuit to the right and join General Burrows,
informing him that I was clearing his way, and that
he might, I felt sure, advance in 20 minutes, by which
time I would have his way open. The Cavalry had
hardly started before I recognized that the enemy,
[Pg 142]seeing that the position I had taken up had rendered
Kokeran untenable, had suddenly evacuated that
place, and taken up an extremely strong position on
my right flank, from which, without delay, they
opened a heavy fire on us. A few shells and a rapid
demonstration, for it never reached a hand-to-hand
fight, soon, however, did their business, and, to my
great satisfaction, I found myself able to ask General
Burrows to come on along a perfectly safe road. It
was a sad cavalcade, many wounded, all well nigh
tired to death. The gun carriages, alas, reduced by
2, which had been lost, covered with sick, wounded,
dead and dying, while the wretched horses, dying
themselves of thirst and fatigue, were hardly able to
drag them along. Many poor fellows, wounded
almost to death, trying with a terrible anxiety to
cling to the back of a horse or a camel, knowing too
well the fate that would await them if they failed to
keep their seats. To these latter my appearance was
a double blessing, as I had brought with me 25
litters (palanquins), into which the worst cases were
placed, and they were able to finish their journey in
comparative comfort. One poor fellow (Major
Iredell) had a compound fracture of the ankle, and
his foot was merely hanging on by the skin, and yet
he had ridden for 18 hours, and was wonderfully
well, and is, I hope, now in a fair way to recovery.
Almost last of all, followed only by a Cavalry escort,
came poor Burrows himself, who, poor fellow, completely
broke down when he saw me, and could not
[Pg 143]say a word. I made him get off his horse and take
a little whiskey and water I had with me, and a bit
of biscuit, and soon he was more composed and
better. He, like them all, was relieved beyond
measure to see me, and my diminutive following, as
they knew their troubles were at an end. I agreed
that they should all, to the last straggler, pass me,
and that when they were half a mile ahead I should
follow slowly, and bring up the rear of all, covering
them from all annoyance. Soon (all too soon, for
they were but a very little company) they had filed
passed, and I then recalled my Cavalry, which had
been watching the ford of the Argandab a mile to
|Small cavalry charge—one man killed.|
my front. On their return over this mile the enemy,
emboldened by our preparations for departure, suddenly
rushed down in great numbers to cut them off,
but Captain Anderson was equal to the occasion, and
setting at nought the difference of numbers, charged
them, and cut his way through, leaving, however,
his very best soldier dead on the ground. Although
I would have liked to have punished the enemy for
this affair, prudence said no, and so I commenced
my return for Kandahar, keeping half a mile in rear
of General Burrows' column, and picking up many
poor fellows (putting them on my guns), who, even in
this short distance, had begun to fall out again. For
the first three miles after leaving Kokeran, all was
absolute quiet, the result of the lessons of the
morning, and the wearied column from Girishk
passed along in unaccustomed peace. At this time,
[Pg 144]however, I received information from the front, that
the enemy had collected in great force on the hills
around and in the Village of Abasabad, and that
help to turn them out was wanted. I immediately
hurried my guns and Cavalry to the front, and
followed on with the Infantry, desiring Captain Law
to pass General Burrows' force, and getting to his
front open fire on the enemy. This he did in good
style, and was making an advance to a second
position, when I and the Infantry, who had also
passed through General Burrows' Force, which were
halted, came up. We completed the dispersion of
the enemy with Artillery fire, and then throwing
out skirmishers swept, for a second time that day,
the gardens round Abasabad. This accomplished,
and the road again clear for General Burrows' Force,
I formed up on one flank and allowed them again to
pass me, following them into the Cantonments, which
I reached about ½ past one or two o'clock, very
thankful indeed that I had gone out, and but little
less delighted that I had managed to effect my object
at such a very small loss. To ensure a safe conduct
to any unfortunate straggler that might, by accident,
have escaped notice, I sent a fresh company of the
7th Regiment to hold the entrance to the Village
of Abasabad, and kept them there till all hopes of
anyone coming in had gone, when I withdrew them.
My column had constantly been on the move from
half-past 5 a.m. till half-past one p.m., the most of
the time under a burning sun, which made us all,
[Pg 145]even those who were riding, suffer from an intolerable
thirst, and as there was no water between Kokeran
and Kandahar, this was a great addition to our
labors. On arrival in Cantonments General Burrows'
|Property in cantonments taken into fort.|
Force received orders to pass on to the Citadel, while
I was desired to take in hands, without delay,
measures for the evacuation of the Cantonments, and
the safe conduct of all the troops there into the
Citadel. The operation was most distasteful, but I
had agreed to the necessity for it, and quite saw it
was the only possible course. When I came to
enquire into the position of affairs I was horrified to
find that the 8 precious hours while I had been
absent had been wasted in the most inexplicable
way. Apparently little or nothing of the Government
or private property in charge of regiments had
been moved to the Fort, and all had yet to be done.
It was then past 2 o'clock, and General Primrose
telegraphed to me from the Citadel, to say he wished
me to move in there as quickly as possible. (I
ought to explain that the Citadel or Fort of Kandahar
is about 1¼ miles from the Cantonments.) I
at once set everyone to work, excusing no one and
superintending all personally, to get as much property
as possible into the Fort, sending there for all
available carts, camels, ponies and mules, each of
which, immediately it had got rid of its load, came
back again, and so the afternoon passed away all too
rapidly. At last all was safely sent in, except the
baggage of the 66th, which was one of the regiments
[Pg 146]of General Burrows' Brigade, who, when going out
to Girishk, had left some tons of things in a most
careless and unpacked condition. I saw it would be
hopeless had I had a day instead of an hour to get
all in, but I put on big working parties, and worked
away, putting off my departure from half hour to
half hour, until it approached 6 o'clock, and I had
been called on three or four times by General
Primrose to move into the Citadel. I then saw it
was useless to try and save more, and so I fixed
¼ past 6 o'clock as the hour for our departure,
deciding that all not packed then must be abandoned.
All this time I had been pressed all round by
marauding bands of armed men, who were sweeping
round, trying to kill and steal who and what they
could. These necessitated strong picquets, and, from
time to time, small expeditions, so my hands were
full. At ¼ past 6 I paraded my force as follows:—
| 4th |
Native Infantry, |
| 28th |
Native Infantry, |
| C/2 |
Royal Artillery, |
| 7th |
Fusiliers, |
| |
Poona Horse, |
Detacht. | 3rd |
Light Cavalry, |
—— | 3rd |
Sind Horse, |
and in this order commenced my mournful and
humiliating march. I had previously gone carefully
round the whole place myself, had had it carefully
searched by an officer with a picquet, and had made
each Commanding Officer and the Chief Medical
[Pg 147]
Officer report to me that nothing was left behind.
|Marched into Citadel after hard day's work.|
At the moment I marched I withdrew my picquets
and guards, and covering my rear with Cavalry,
moved on the Fort. When every man had left the
large Barrack square I returned to it myself and
made my Staff and escort, who were with me, pass
out before me, so that I might have the melancholy
satisfaction of being the last man in the place. At
7 p.m. I followed the last man of the Force into the
Citadel and shut the gates, and so began a fresh act
of this extremely painful drama. With the exception
of a portion of the clothing of the 66th Regiment, I
had succeeded in getting the property of the regiments
which were under me into safety, but I fear
much, owing to some mismanagement, I am inclined
almost to fear a panic, after we had started for
Kokeran, several of the regiments hurriedly and
unnecessarily evacuated their barracks early in the
morning, when they were at once entered by the
enemy and plundered. On starting, I made over
the command to the next senior officer, giving him
distinct instructions how to act, but as he himself
lost some of the baggage of his regiment (in my
absence), he cannot have paid much attention to
them. Late as it was when I entered the Citadel,
my work was not yet done, as I was the only General
Officer available to issue orders or do work, as
General Primrose, who was seedy, was thoroughly
wearied out, and Generals Burrows and Nuttall were
sound asleep, and poor fellows badly they needed it
[Pg 148]after the terrible night they had gone through. I
had, therefore, to set to work to put the Guards and
necessary defences for the night in some state of
order, and as this involved a walk and ride round
the City and Fort walls, 4½ miles, it was a pleasant
ending to a long day. At 8 o'clock I snatched a
hurried dinner with General Primrose, the first food,
except a cup of chocolate and a biscuit, I had had in
the day, and at half-past nine went the round of the
ramparts and guards, getting to bed at 1 a.m.,
having had 23½ hours of intense work of mind and
body, 18 of which I had spent in the saddle. I
did not want much rocking, and was horrified to
find, long before I was half satisfied with sleep, that
it was 5 a.m. on the 29th July, and that I had to get
up to start off a reconnoitering party of Cavalry to
ascertain the state of affairs round our old Cantonments.
They found the whole country covered with
armed men, and the Cantonment looted, and such
parts of it as would burn, burned down. They were
fired on at several places, but returned unopposed to
Camp. We were hard at work all day, improving
our defences and removing the cover which surrounded
the outside of the gates, but it was clear
this was, with our small force, the work of many
days, and that if we were soon attacked we would
have to make the best of things as they were. In
the afternoon the enemy's Cavalry appeared in large
numbers on our left front. We immediately turned
out our Cavalry Brigade, who, however, could not
[Pg 149]get near the enemy's, as they retired under the
shelter of their guns, where we did not care to follow
them. The night passed quite quietly, there being
strong guards on all the walls, and everyone sleeping
in their clothes, ready to turn out at a moment's
notice. It is necessary I should mention that on the
previous day, while I was at Kokeran, General
Primrose was busy in the City, seizing on all the
principal parts, closing and securing the Gates, and
keeping the inhabitants overawed—all works, any
failure in which would have been utter destruction
to us. On the morning of the 28th, therefore, our
small force had three important duties to perform:
1st, to go out and assist the retiring column; 2nd,
to seize and hold the City, and fortify it, and prepare
for the siege; 3rd, to hold the Cantonments—any
one of them a task quite sufficient for the strength
of the Force, so that our accomplishing all three was
a matter of great satisfaction.
Enemy cavalry treated to some shells.
July 30.
—Sent out a reconnoitering party of
Cavalry, and directed the Officer so to approach the
enemy's Camp as to try and draw him out, which he
did very successfully, giving us an excellent opportunity
of treating him with good effect to a few
shells. General Burrows and I urged on General
Primrose the absolute necessity for turning out of
the City the whole of the Pathans, and he authorized
us to go to the Political Officer and the Wāli, and
urge the great importance of this matter, and notify
[Pg 150]his determination to have it carried out. A little
explanation on this subject is necessary. The population
of the City of Kandahar is made up of three
sections, the largest of which are Pathans, who are
all Orthodox Mahomedans, very bitter against all
foreigners or infidels, and our irreconcilable enemies.
The next are the Moghuls or Parsiwans, who, though
Mahomedans, are accounted a species of dissenter by
the true Mahomedans, and hated and persecuted by
them accordingly. Their sympathies are therefore
(speaking comparatively) with us. The third and
last are the Hindoo Merchants, an influential and
numerous community, settlers from India, intent
only on making money, despised by both sects of
Mahomedans, who, in turn, prey on them and rob
them. They are quite valueless as friends or foes,
but such as they were their feelings are with us.
The Pathans, to a man, were our enemies, and their
presence in the City our deadliest danger, and it
seemed to me quite useless to fortify our position or
take measures against the enemy without, if we
wilfully permitted a base and treacherous foe to
remain within, our walls. The measure of turning
out many innocent people was a hard and painful
one, but it was one on which our very existence
rested, and so I was most urgent on the point. As
|Politicals objected to Pathan ejectment.|
I expected, the Political Officers objected, and tried
to persuade us that the risk was imaginary, &c.
However, I was firm, and after a long and hot
conversation which, at one time, seemed likely to
[Pg 151]culminate in a row, I carried the day, and an order
was issued that all Pathans (men) should leave the
City, and that in the afternoon search parties would
go round to ascertain that the order was being
obeyed. This unpleasant duty was confided to me,
and I made all preparations for resistance, but in no
case met with any, and it was clear the exodus had
commenced, and eventually resulted in about 12,000
persons leaving the City of their own free will. This
was a gain not only in getting rid of a certain set of
desperate enemies, but also in reducing the number
of mouths to be fed and supplied with water, the
latter more especially. Though this was a good
beginning, I was by no means satisfied that all the
dangerous element had been removed, and from time
to time persistently urged my views to this effect,
until eventually it seemed we had reduced the evil
to a minimum. I cannot say that even yet (written
August 14th) I am quite satisfied, but I hope and
believe the internal danger is greatly reduced.
Throughout we got no hearty assistance from the
Political Officers, the Wāli, or the City Authorities,
the Chief of which (called the Kotwal) is, I believe,
the prime villain of the lot, and I informed Colonel
St. John (the Political Officer) that I considered he
ought to be arrested, and that I should myself, on
my own responsibility, assuredly seize him if there
was the sign of an emeute in the town. I have no
doubt Colonel St. John will hereafter try to prove I
was too decided, and too hard in this matter, but I
[Pg 152]am convinced I was right, and only wish I had more
certainty that we were as safe from danger from
within as he tries to make me believe. If I were
General Primrose I would relieve him of all political
powers while the present state of affairs lasted, and
constitute myself
only and chief Political Officer, and
this I have urged on him. When I found it quite
impossible, as it seemed to be at first, to move the
Pathans out, I threatened (having received authority
from General Primrose to act as might seem best) to
throw a few shells into the Pathan quarter, and
certainly would have done so when all other means
failed, but never desired or wished to resort to so
extreme a measure until all fair means had been
tried.
July 31st.
—After a quiet night I was up at 4·30
and sent out a reconnoitering party, which got well
into Cantonments without resistance, and returned
almost unopposed. While, however, they were so
employed, a large body of Cavalry and Infantry
appeared on our right front, in the direction of
Mandi Hissar, and occupied 2 villages within 1,000
yards of the wall. General Primrose ordered me to
take out some Cavalry and Infantry to clear them
off, which I did, and had a smart little fight, effecting
our object, and killing about 30 of the enemy, with
a loss to ourselves of one man killed and 3 wounded.
I sent in to ask General Primrose to send me some
guns, as the enemy had fallen back into a strong
[Pg 153]village, against the loopholed walls of which I did
not care to rush the men until I had got a practicable
breach. No guns coming, and the object of the little
expedition having been effected, I withdrew my
party to the Fort, where I found that General
Primrose had not wished to push the affair further,
and had sent to tell me so, but the message had not
reached me. Hard at work all day improving our
defences. Everyone is on duty always, and despite
the hot sun and incessant labor, all are in first-rate
|Demolitions of cover outside city gates.|
health. Now the General regrets that he did not
take advantage of the opportunity offered by the
firing on our guards and picquets, to have all the
cover, which lies round the City Gates outside, down.
It must all be done now, and as our working parties
are always opposed, we lose men daily over the
business. We all feel that we owe more than half
our troubles and difficulties to the happy-go-lucky
style adopted by General Stewart, who steadily
objected to any military precautions whatever being
taken at Kandahar. He is certainly the luckiest
man in the world—having got safe away before his
faults and oversights began to bear fruit.
August 1st.
—Sent out very heavy working
parties to clear the front of the Kabul Gate, which
is a mass of houses and bazaars. These parties are
relieved every four hours, and have to be protected
by strong covering parties who are in conflict with
the enemy the whole day, but both sides taking
[Pg 154]advantage of the cover afforded by the numerous
walls, little serious loss results as a rule, though
there is seldom a day that 4, 5, or more men are
not killed and wounded. At 2 p.m. took direction
of a small force to endeavour to find more of the
Pathans, who are, I am confident, still lurking in
the City intent on no good. It was a most unpleasant
duty, but I hardened my heart, and made
all I found go out. We got over 700 out on this
occasion. I cannot say I am yet satisfied, and think
we are being fooled and possibly betrayed by the
Wāli and his servants.
August 2nd.
—Up at 5 a.m. to direct an attack
on a garden opposite our S.W. Bastion, which is the
salient of my line of defence. Gave the executive
charge to Colonel Bannerman, who carried out the
affair in accordance with my instruction in an
excellent manner, and most successfully, and though
the resistance was steady, our loss was only 1 man
killed and 1 wounded, the enemy losing very considerably.
Walls divided into separate commands.
August 3rd.
—My birthday; 44 years old to-day;
could not help thinking much of all the dear
ones at home, knowing how anxious they would be,
and feeling sure I would not be forgotten on this
day especially. Still working hard at our defences.
The walls were divided into 4 sections for commands,
as follows:—
[Pg 155]
General Primrose— |
The North or Eedgah Front. |
General Burrows— |
W. or Herat Front. |
General Nuttall— |
E. or Kabul Front. |
General Brooke— |
S. or Shikarpore Front. |
Though mine is shorter a good deal than either
General Burrows' or General Nuttall's, it has the
drawback of being farthest from the Citadel, and it
is generally supposed it will be the one on which the
heaviest attack will come. Each front is covered
outside with a net-work of walls which must be
destroyed.
August 4th.
—All at the works. The enemy
was rather troublesome, but a few shot and shell,
and a steady fire from our selected marksmen, kept
them off. The Wāli's Cavalry—about 80 men—went
out of the Shikarpore Gate and looted some
forage, about a mile to the front, in very good style.
Prepared an Abatis in front of my gate, and cut off
the water supply of a village 1,000 yards due south.
Slept on the ramparts, and visited all my line twice
between 11 p.m. and 4 a.m. I have a camp bed up
on the walls, but no one undresses, and sleep is
taken in very small snatches. I may say now I live
on my wall, as, except returning to the Citadel for
breakfast and dinner and a wash, I never leave the
ramparts. We have rather a snug little mess,
managed by Colonel Beville, consisting of General
Burrows and his Brigade Major, Captain Law;
Colonel Beville, and Captain Leckie, my Brigade
[Pg 156]Major, and myself. So far we have fared very
comfortably, as there is a good deal to be bought,
and we had a good deal of stores, &c., when we came
in. I have quite given up any sort of wine or
spirits during the day, and drink nothing but water
or cold tea until dinner, when I have one glass of
sherry, and sometimes a little hock and water, but
generally, when I can get it, lime juice and water.
I never touch spirits at all, and am convinced that
for hard work there is nothing like drinks that do
not inebriate.
August 5th.
—Large covering and working
parties in front of the Herat Gate to remove heavy
cover between it and the General's old garden.
Hardly any resistance offered by the enemy. I
completed the Abatis and wire entanglements opposite
my gate, and the S.E. and S.W. Bastions, both of
which come within my charge. I consider the S.W.
Bastion the weakest point of my line, and the one
where the heaviest and worst attack will be. I have
a 40-pounder gun in the S.E. Bastion, and 2
9-pounders in the S.W. Bastion. Urged thereto by
General Burrows and myself, General Primrose had
the Kotwal of the City arrested, and in the presence
of General Burrows, Colonel St. John, the Nawab
Hussun Ali, and myself, warned him of the precarious
position in which he stood in case of any
outbreak in the City, and told him of the reason of
his arrest, &c. He was then conveyed to safe
[Pg 157]quarters, where he is kept under a European guard,
no one seeing him except in the presence of the
officer. I feel sure he was a traitor to us, and had
some bad scheme in contemplation, and his arrest
will nip his machinations in the bud. Even Colonel
St. John was glad he was arrested.
August 6th.
—At 3 a.m. every man was turned
out and occupied the post he would hold in case of
attack, to ascertain that all knew their places.
Everything was very quietly done, and the arrangements
worked well. The working parties in front
of my gate were much annoyed by the enemy firing
at long distances. One officer, Lieut. De Trafford, 7th
Fusiliers, was wounded. We brought down a mortar
and cleared out one of the most troublesome villages.
Ayoob Khan's Camp was observed to be pitched
behind Picquet Hill in the old Cantonments.
Enemy's camp successfully shelled.
August 7th.
—Threw some shells (40-pounders)
with excellent effect into Ayoob's Camp. A regular
stampede ensued, and many tents were seen to be on
fire, and the Camp was quickly deserted. The
distance from us being 3,500 yards (2 miles) they
thought they were quite safe, and their horror and
astonishment was all the greater. We heard afterwards
that one shell had killed 10 and wounded 2
men, burning down the tent in which they were
lying. Busy all day on my walls improving the
fire capacity which, owing to the peculiar formation
[Pg 158]of the walls and towers, is very defective, and, do
what we may, will never be really good. The heat
is very great, inducing great lassitude, which is not
wonderful, seeing one barely gets 4 hours sleep out
of 24, and never has one's clothes off except for one's
tub, the great luxury of the day, and which I
always have now just before dinner.
August 8th.
—Heavy firing from the enemy on
the working parties in front of the Durani and
Kabul Gates, and it took a serious administration of
mortar shells to quiet the enemy. For the first
time the enemy opened their Artillery on us from a
well constructed battery on Picquet Hill. Our 40-pounder
at the N.W. angle, however, made excellent
practice, and dismounted one of their guns. The
enemy have moved their Camp to a position beyond
Abasabad, 5,000 yards from our guns. They are
busy throwing up batteries against the Herat face.
First proposal to attack Deh Kojah.
August 9th.
—Large working and covering
parties (under Colonel Daubeny) in front of the
S.W. Bastion to complete necessary demolitions.
We lost several men, killed and wounded, but did
good work. A large force of the enemy collected in
the village opposite Shikarpore Gate, but were
turned out by our mortar fire. It was proposed
to attack the village of Deh Kojah, which is 900
yards from the Kabul Gate, in view to inflicting a
lesson on the enemy. It was clear we could not
[Pg 159]think of holding it, or any other place beyond the
walls, and therefore we should have no real advantage
to recompense us for the certain loss the enterprise
would entail. For many good reasons I objected to
the plan, as useless and involving a certain heavy
loss and discouragement to the men, and eventually
it was given up, a short bombardment being substituted
for it, which was, I fear, not very useful
either.
August 10th.
—Quiet night; but at 6·30 a.m.
enemy opened, on the S.W. Bastion, with a gun
which had been placed in position during the night
in village opposite Shikarpore Gate. The shells fell
short, doing no damage, and our artillery forced
him to evacuate the position. Enemy appear to be
busy throwing up entrenchments on Picquet Hill,
also in a corner of the garden opposite S.W. Bastion.
He threw some shells into the Citadel, one bursting
in a room next to the Church. For the first time I
had leisure, and went round and visited all the
wounded officers and men, all doing well, though
Major Iredell's wound is very serious. Threw some
shells into enemy's work in front of S.W. Bastion.
Effect not satisfactory, and the distance being only
400 yards, portions of the shells flew back over us,
and one bit killed one of our mules. On going my
rounds at 10 p.m. I heard decided indications of
men at work in the village opposite the Shikarpore
Gate, and also sounds of wheels (artillery), from
[Pg 160]which
I judged the enemy were
throwing up a
battery there. Reinforced parties on walls, and
remained expecting an attack all night, but none
came.
August 11th.
—At daylight discovered that the
village in front of my Gate has, as I anticipated, been
much fortified since the previous evening, but were
quite unable to discover where the battery, if there
is one, is placed. Letters received for the first time
from India, but only two in cypher, for General
Primrose and Colonel St. John. By them we are
informed that Sir F. Roberts left Kabul on the 7th,
with a division to assist us—he cannot be here before
the 1st of next month—and that General Phayre
was doing all he could to gather a force to bring to
our relief. He was at Quetta on the 6th, so it is
unlikely that he either can arrive until the end of
the month. Bombarded village in front of Shikarpore
Gate with good effect.
August 12th.
—A quiet night. Being grouse-shooting
day, we acted as grouse, and were heavily
shot at as we had a large covering and working
party out opposite the S.W. Bastion, in hopes of
effecting some much wanted demolitions. The
whole were under the command of Lieut.-Colonel
Griffiths, 1st N.I., who, in my judgment, by no
means made the most of his opportunities, and little
or no work was done. The gardens which had to be
[Pg 161]taken were full of the enemy, who were, however,
smartly driven out by the Fusiliers and 19th N.I.,
but owing to supports not being brought up, the
enemy returned in force, and the position became
untenable, unless we wished to precipitate a general
action, which was undesirable. All sorts of wild
reports were sent in of large gatherings of the enemy
approaching, which I did not credit, but it was considered
wiser to recall the parties, which was done,
and all fell back under a fierce fire, during which
many of our men fell. I was standing on the
parapet, directing matters as far as I could, when I
|Gallant act of two R.E. Officers.|
witnessed, just 20 feet beneath me, a grand piece of
gallantry on the part of two young R.E. Officers
(Lieuts. Jones and Waller), who, under a galling
fire, returned from safe cover and carried into safety
a wounded sepoy, during which operation one of the
men who was with them, a private of the 7th, was
killed—shot through the head. I can personally
testify to the hotness of the fire, and I have recommended
both for the V. C., which I think they fully
deserve. I am opposed altogether to these small
fights which cost many lives and have but little
results, but the next there is I shall, I think, take
myself and try to make a better job of it than was
done to-day.
August 13th.
—Quiet night and morning. Not
a soul to be seen all round. After breakfast went
on the Signal Tower to watch the effect of a few
[Pg 162]40-pounder shells, which we were going to throw
into the enemy's new camp, at 5,000 yards' range.
The shots were excellent, and evidently created
much consternation, but the enemy had evidently
seen our group on the Signal Tower, and at once
sent a 12-pounder shell at us, which went beyond
the Tower, his second trial was short and went into
the City, but his third shot was so far successful
that he hit the lower part of the Tower. At
6 p.m. we shelled a Battery in Deh Khoja. The
enemy replied briskly for ½ an hour, and then
finding it too hot, shut up. On this occasion we
used 7-pounder shells in the 9-pounder guns, to
which they had been adapted by an ingenious contrivance
of Major Caldecott. They proved a great
success, and are a grand addition to our firing
powers, as we have 1,100 of them in the Arsenal.
On coming back to the walls after dinner I found a
telegram from the Herat Gate, to say that large
bodies of men were advancing with music, &c.
Knowing the anxious nature of my friend in command
there the information did not much excite me,
and I waited till I could get down to the S.W.
Bastion before deciding if any special measures were
necessary. Getting there I heard the music (most
discordant), and concluded it was in the Engineer
Garden in our old Cantonments, and was merely the
enemy having a musical evening. The fact that
there was music was rather a proof that the enemy
did not contemplate an attack. There were, no
[Pg 163]doubt, many people about, but on the whole I
decided there was nothing at the moment worth
turning out the Garrison for, so sent a re-assuring
telegram to Head Quarters, which was justified by a
quiet night.
Further attacks on the Shikapore Gate.
August 14th.
—At 6·30 the enemy opened a
Battery on the Shikarpore Gate, to which we
quickly replied, shutting him and his guns up in
½ an hour. A spy came in who reports our shells
have created much damage among the enemy; also
that they lost 60 men in the little affair of the 12th,
among them Mahomed Azim Khan, Governor of
Furrah, a very great man indeed. The spy says
there is an Artillery Officer prisoner with Ayoub
Khan, and that he is very well treated in every way;
he also says that the enemy have 1,500 wounded
now lying at Maiwand.
Here the Diary ends!
[Pg 164]
[Pg 165]
[Pg 166]
[Pg 167]
From
Rt. Hon. Hugh Childers, M.P.,
War Office.
To
Mrs. Brooke,
Ashbrooke,
Brookeboro'.
I deeply regret to have to announce to you that General
Brooke fell in a sortie from Kandahar on the Sixteenth of
August. Pray accept my most sincere condolences on the terrible
loss to yourself and to the country.
From Her Majesty the Queen.
Balmoral Castle,
August 27th, 1880.
Lt.-General Sir Henry Ponsonby presents his compliments to
Mrs. Brooke.
He has been commanded to convey the Queen's sincere and
earnest sympathy with her in her grief, and Her Majesty's sorrow
at the loss sustained by Mrs. Brooke in the recent action near
Kandahar, where the Queen has had to lament the death of so
many brave officers and men.
The accounts which Her Majesty has received of Brigadier-General
Brooke only increase her deep regret that she should
have been deprived of the services of so gallant and worthy a
soldier.
[Pg 168]
From
H. E. The Governor,
Bombay.
To
Mrs. Brooke,
Ashbrooke,
Brookeboro'.
Viceroy desires me to convey to you his deep sympathy, in
which I beg to join. It is reported your gallant Husband was
killed while trying to carry off Captain Cruikshank when
wounded.
From Major General Dillon.
Horse Guards, Pall Mall,
London, August 30th, 1880.
My dear Mrs. Brooke,
I have waited for some days before carrying out the
wishes of the Duke of Cambridge, received from Kissengen, to
convey to you by letter an expression of His Royal Highness'
deep sympathy with you in your great affliction, and his sense
of the loss which the service has sustained by the death of a
gallant soldier and distinguished officer. In alluding to the sad
event in the last letter received from Germany only to-day, His
Royal Highness continues—"I am too sorry for General Brooke's
death, a good officer lost to the service at a critical moment
for the garrison of Kandahar. Lord Napier will feel it much."
Believe me,
Dear Mrs. Brooke,
Yours very sincerely,
M. A. DILLON.
From Lord Napier of Magdala.
August 25th, 1880.
Dear Lady Arabella,
I cannot resist writing you a few lines to express my
most sincere sympathy with you, and my sorrow at the loss of
[Pg 169]your gallant son at Kandahar, which the telegram has to-day
announced to us. I have felt so much confidence in your son
being with the Force, that I look upon his loss as a great public
misfortune, as well as a domestic calamity, the bitterness of which
you and his widow alone can tell. I much entreat you, dear
friend, to try and remember that he fell nobly doing his duty,
and I trust that God in his mercy will give you strength to bear
this heavy bereavement, and will in His own time comfort you
and the poor widow. Lady Napier joins me in the truest and
deepest sympathy.
Believe me,
Dear Lady Arabella,
Yours most sincerely,
NAPIER OF MAGDALA.
Statement of Sergeant-Major Rickard, 2/7th Royal Fusiliers.
Sergeant-Major T. Rickard, of the 2/7th Fusiliers, states:—On
the 16th August, 1880, I was one of the Party ordered out for the
storming of Deh Khoja, under General Brooke. We attacked
the village at the South end about 5.30 a.m. under a very heavy
fire in all directions from the enemy. When we arrived in the
centre of the village, Captain Cruikshank, R.E., got wounded.
General Brooke assisted in helping him along. We then
advanced further on, to force our way through the village, when
we halted and got under a wall, as we thought under cover, but
the enemy's fire from all directions kept getting heavier, and the
longer we stopped the heavier the fire got. General Brooke
said to me, "Sergeant-Major, we shall never get out of this, I am
afraid." He then ordered us to retire back out of the village.
We did so. After we got out of the village about 300 yards, we
halted again under cover about 10 minutes, and fired on the
enemy as fast as we could. General Brooke asked me to send
him another man to help him along with Captain Cruikshank.
[Pg 170]I did so, and we retired again towards the Fort, and had only got
about 200 yards when General Brooke was shot in the head
(dead), and the other man that was helping was shot. I was with
General Brooke the whole time, till he was shot.
T. RICKARD,
Sergeant-Major 2/7th Royal Fusiliers.
From Colonel French, R.A., Commanding Artillery in Kandahar.
Kandahar, 26th August.
My Dear Annie,
Most sincerely do I sympathize with you in the loss
of your dear good Husband, poor Henry; he was so genial,
cheery, kind, and courteous to all who came in contact with him,
and much beloved and respected by everyone in this Force. No
braver or truer soldier lost his life in that ill-fated attack on Deh
Khoja. I miss him so very much, we were thrown so much
together during the last four months. No man was more keen for
a fight than poor Henry, and when the day of battle did come,
right gallantly he led his men, sacrificing his life in the humane
effort to rescue a wounded man from falling into the hands of the
enemy. From Trumpeter McGlynn, C/2 R.A., who was his
Orderly Trumpeter on the 16th August, I have heard the following
account of how poor Henry fell:—After half an hour's skirmishing
they reached the village, and on entering, Henry and the
Trumpeter had just dismounted, when a volley from the enemy
so startled their horses they broke away, and galloped back to
within the City. Henry advanced through the village on foot,
cheering on his men amidst a galling fire of musketry, which the
enemy poured on them from loop-holed walls. Arrived in the
centre of the village, Captain Cruikshank, R.E., fell badly
wounded. At this time our men were being driven back by superior
numbers and the heavy fire from the houses. Henry helped to
carry Cruikshank; succeeded in getting him out of the village, of
[Pg 171]which they had got clear about 30 yards, Henry still supporting
Cruikshank, when he was struck down by apparently a bullet in
the head. Trumpeter McGlynn states that he fell forward on his
face and never moved after; so poor Henry's death must have
been instantaneous. The Trumpeter and a few men of the 7th
Fusiliers tried to carry off the body, but were compelled to desist
owing to the enemy making a rush on them. Deh Khoja was
evacuated on the night of the 24th, and on the following day
search was made for the bodies of our fallen. Henry's was
found and buried near where he fell, under a Peepul tree, the
Rev. Mr. Cane, our Chaplain, having read the Burial Service.
This terrible loss of life at Maiwand and Deh Khoja has cast a
gloom on all here, and no man is more generally sorrowed for and
regretted than poor Henry—every inch a soldier. No man
worked harder to put this City in a state of defence. I looked
upon him as one of our rising Generals, who, later on, would have
shone out with much distinction.
From Colonel B.
Kandahar, 14th September, 1880.
My dear Major H.,
I am sorry I have been unable, through press of work,
to fulfil my promise before now, and send you the particulars of
the unfortunate affair of Deh Khoja, on the 16th August, as far
as they are known by me, which cost us so many valuable lives,
and more especially that of my dear friend General Brooke,
whose loss was deeply felt by everyone here, for he was not only
much loved by all, but he had proved himself to be possessed of
the greatest energy and cool good judgment, and had consequently
gained the confidence of all ranks, both senior and junior. I
have no hesitation in saying that we are indebted to him for much
that was done to strengthen our position here, and in the arrangements
for the defence. He never rested until he got the Pathans
[Pg 172]turned out of the City, and the place disarmed. How much he
did do, and how much his wise influence effected will probably
never be known fully by the Public; but from a perusal of his
Diary which I gave you, it will be seen how continually active he
was in carrying out the work assigned to him, and what his
opinions were on many subjects. He was strongly opposed to
the attack on Deh Khoja, for many reasons, which he gives in his
Diary, and he was mainly instrumental in its being abandoned
the week before, when it had been resolved on. The attack was
finally decided on, the following week, on the advice, I believe, of
the Commanding Engineer, in consequence of our working
parties employed outside the Kabul Gate, in demolishing some
buildings, having been prevented by the fire from Deh Khoja
completing the work. His objections to it were stronger than
before, as it was known that the enemy had been busily employed
all the week in fortifying the village, and he feared that the loss
would be greater than we could afford, or than the good to be
gained. He could not, however, urge his objections, as he had
done on the previous occasion, as he was nominated to command
the attack. The force was composed of 300 Cavalry, 300 Royal
Fusiliers, and 500 Native Infantry. The Cavalry left the Eedgar
Gate at 4 o'clock in the morning, and making a wide detour of
the village of Kairabad took up a position in the rear of Deh
Khoja, i.e., on the west. Our guns on the walls then commenced
a bombardment to prepare the Infantry attack, and at 5·30 a.m.
the Infantry moved out of the Kabul Gate, covered by riflemen
from the walls. Immediately they got out into the open they
came under a very heavy fire from the village, which is from 700
to 800 yards from the City, but the troops advanced in splendid
form and were never once checked. They entered the village at
the south, as had been previously decided on, and we then lost
sight of them, but we could hear them hard at work with their
rifles. I need not describe the village, for you have seen it and
know what a labyrinth of narrow streets and high walls it is, every
enclosure being a regular little fortification, so that as soon as the
[Pg 173]enemy was driven out of one position they ran into another like a
lot of rats, and our force was too weak to hold the positions as
they were taken. General Brooke, however, pushed on with
his troops right through the village from south to north, and
leaving a strong party of the Fusiliers at the latter part, he
retraced his steps with a view of completing the capture, but by
this time the enemy began to pour in from the south of the
village; these were reinforcements sent by Ayoob Khan from the
cantonments as soon as he had heard the firing going on. They
advanced by the gardens and village on the south of the City,
which afforded them shelter from our fire until they came
opposite our S. E. Bastion where we had a 40-pounder and
9-pounder which gave them several rounds, but did not do them
much damage, the practice being bad. It did not at any rate
check them. Our cavalry, however, seeing them coming, moved
down in that direction and stopped them for some little time, but
being exposed to a heavy fire from the enclosures when they
could not act, they had to be withdrawn. On finding that the
enemy were crowding into the village from the south, General
Brooke sent his Brigade-Major to General Primrose to report
matters and to ask for orders, the reply to which was to retire his
Force at once, but by the time this officer got back to the village
the enemy held it in such force he could not get to General
Brooke, who was still in the centre of it. A Trumpeter of C/2,
who was with General Brooke all the time, informed me that
when they returned from the north of the village and had reached
about the centre, they found Captain Cruikshank, R.E., severely
wounded, and unable to move, and finding that the enemy was
closing in on them all round, General Brooke looked out for some
defensible place into which he could get the party which was with
him, consisting of men of the Fusiliers and Native Sappers, and
for this purpose he made for a court-yard in which there were
buildings, but directly they entered it they were met by a heavy
fire. It was here that Captain Cruikshank begged him to leave
him to his fate, and save himself and party, but he nobly refused
[Pg 174]to do this, and thinking there were still some of his party in the
south of the village where he had left them, he determined to
push on in that direction, so calling for volunteers of the Fusiliers
to carry poor Cruikshank, they moved down to the south under a
heavy fire and got out into the open. All the parties had been
compelled to withdraw, and there was nothing left for them but
to make the best of their way back to the City, taking advantage
of what cover they could find. They were much hampered by
having to carry poor Cruikshank, and they had frequently to
change the men who were carrying him. It was during one of
these changes, when they had got about 100 yards from the
village, and poor Brooke was supporting Cruikshank with his
left arm while the men were being relieved, that he was shot
through the back, just between the shoulders, and fell dead; at
the same time a number of Ghazis made a rush on them from
the village, and the remainder of the party retreated hastily
towards the City. On the 25th August the village was evacuated
by the enemy, and we went out to bury the bodies. I found and
recognised poor Brooke's body. He was lying among several
others, and Cruikshank and a Sergeant Strong were close to him.
It was a fearfully melancholy sight, but it was a great satisfaction
to recover the bodies and to give them burial, which we did under
a tree close to the spot where they fell. While deeply grieving
and lamenting over his death and those who died with him, one
cannot but feel proud of his noble and gallant conduct in sacrificing
himself in endeavouring to save a brother officer. Among
the papers which I gave you, you will find one containing his
views on the situation in Afghanistan, which will repay perusal,
and which will, no doubt, be valuable to his family. I have his
sword, which I forgot to give you with the other things I had
selected to send home. I will take care of it till I get an
opportunity of sending it home.
[Pg 175]
From Mrs. L.
11th October.
My dear B.,
I am enclosing one sheet of the letter which was
written on the 16th August, the day of the sortie.
Kandahar, August 16th.
This is a very sad day for us. There was a great sortie this
morning against a village outside the Kabul Gate. We sent out
800 Infantry and 300 Cavalry under General Brooke. They
got into the village, and there they suffered considerable loss.
The Fusiliers lost 2 Officers, Marsh and Wood, both young boys,
25 killed, and 29 wounded; the 28th one Officer, Colonel
Newport, killed, and 30 killed and 19 wounded; the 19th 2
Officers, Major Trench and Lieut. Stayner, killed. Their return
of men have not yet come in. Major Vandeleur, 7th Fusiliers, is
badly wounded; Colonel Nimmo, 28th, dangerously; Colonel
Shewell, of the Commissariat, wounded; Lieut. Wood, of the
Transport, badly wounded; Captain Cruikshank, of the Engineers,
killed; the Rev. Gordon, dangerously wounded; and last and
worst, General Brooke killed. I feel so sad about it, I can
hardly speak, for I had learnt almost to love him, indeed I may
say quite. He was shot through the head as he was carrying
poor Cruikshank away from the village; and the worst of it is,
that, in the opinion of many of us, this sortie was a quite useless
waste of life. I believe we inflicted considerable loss of life on
the enemy; but it was mere madness attacking with such a small
force, a labyrinth of lanes and houses like that. Brooke knew
it, but could not protest, as he was ordered to command the Force.
Burrows knew it, but he was not consulted. A man of the
Fusiliers, whom I questioned about Brooke's death, says, the
party he was with would never have got out of the village but for
him. He is a great loss, for he was the best head we had, and I
think the whole Force deplores his loss, nearly—though not quite
as much as I do. When you write to B., let her and her
[Pg 176]husband know how he was loved, and how nobly he died. I
cannot write any more. There is a great deal to be done; but
no more sorties, I trust. We ought merely to have waited, but
somebody got an idea we ought to do something.
"Poor Brooke was warned that he was going to certain death
when he went back for Cruikshank, but he would go. Cruikshank
was mortally wounded, and begged them to leave him and save
themselves. Brooke had ordered the Cavalry to cover the
retreat of the Infantry, which was construed into an order to
retire, and the consequence was that the Cavalry was withdrawn,
and crowds of men rushed into the village, which had been kept
in check on the far side of the Cavalry—even before our men
were out of the village. I cannot tell you how I miss Brooke,
he was always so cheery and jolly, and had such sound views; he
was the best head we had in the Force." In another letter he says,
"Brooke's loss shows day by day more seriously; his cheery
temper and sound views had the best influence.
"We miss his counsels greatly, in another way he is a great loss,
as he knew every yard of the country round, and would have been
the very man to lead a turning column. If it were not for the
loss of Brooke, I should feel quite jolly, but I can't get him out
of my head."
From Mrs. P.
21st October, 1880.
Dear Mr. Brooke,
We had this morning letters from my brother Colonel
H., at Kandahar, and we think you would like to hear what
he says of your Brother. To my husband my brother writes:—Poor
Brooke, as gallant a fellow as ever stepped, led the
attack, and after doing gallant deeds was recalled by the orders
of General Primrose (from the walls of the City), and in retiring
and trying to save a brother officer's life lost his own. The three
columns, as is invariably the case, lost all sight and touch of
[Pg 177]each other, and nobody knew where the others were; in spite
of it all, the effect on the enemy was very great, and the siege
to all intents and purposes ended.
Poor Brooke was full of zeal and energy, and died a soldier's
death in being the last to leave the village, and in attempting to
carry poor Cruikshank, who had been fatally wounded, out of
action. It may be a satisfaction to Mrs. Brooke to know that he
behaved so gallantly and was spared all suffering while carrying
his brother officer under a most murderous fire. 24 were killed
round about him, and the heaviest loss occurred where he fell;
he did not retire of his own accord, and was greatly surprised to
get the order which was sent him by General Primrose; on
receiving it he sent orders for the several parties to retire, and
fell back himself last of all with a few men. Being ordered to
retire, he had no opportunity to carry out his plan to the end;
it might have been a grand success or a heavy loss, but his loss
was very heavily felt by the Force.
In the Battle of Pir Paimal we formed, with one of Roberts'
Brigades, the Reserve, while two Brigades attacked. Our
Reserve had a grand chance of distinguishing themselves,
and had Brooke been alive, I believe it would have been
done.
Extract from another Brother's Letter.
August 27th, 1880.
The day before yesterday we got the news of the sortie of the
Garrison (Kandahar) on the 16th: it has had good results, and
was successful; yet the heavy loss in Senior Officers does not
read well. General Brooke is amongst the killed, and I am
very sorry at this, for, no doubt, he was one of the best men in
the Garrison, and is sure to have been always plucky and
cheery.
[Pg 178]
From Col.
Kandahar, September, 1880.
... Brooke was constantly at General Primrose about our weakness
in Troops and the defencelessness of the Citadel, but he
would never sanction any money being spent on it. Everything
he did, or rather did not do, was bad enough, but I shall never
forgive him the Deh Khoja business on the 16th August, which
lost us poor Brooke's life, and the lives of so many brave men,
without any object. General Primrose had ordered the assault on
Deh Khoja the week before, but Brooke and Burrows got him to
countermand it for the following reasons, namely:—The village
was built of thick mud walls and roofs, so that it could not
possibly be burned; it was known to be very strongly held by the
enemy, and would therefore require a large Force to take it, and
we should therefore lose a great many more men than we could
spare, and if we captured it we could not hold it, as we had not
enough men to man our own walls properly, and as it could not
be burned, or destroyed, or held, the enemy would simply walk
back into it the minute we left it; and the last and best reason
was, that as there were two Forces coming to our relief, our duty
was to hold Kandahar, and do nothing to endanger our position,
and certainly not to go outside the walls to fight the enemy,
giving up the advantage that we had. We all thought the insane
idea had been given up for good, but the following week General
Primrose sent for Brooke and Burrows, and told them that he
had made up his mind to attack the village next morning, and
told Brooke he was to command the Force. This, of course,
effectually prevented Brooke saying what he thought, as he told
me he could not raise objections against it, under these circumstances,
as it might be thought that he was afraid, but he said,
"the objections against it are greater than they were before, as it is
known that the enemy have been hard at work all the week
fortifying the place." Burrows ought to have done his best to
oppose it, but as Brooke did not oppose, for the above reason he,
[Pg 179]said nothing, and so the attack unfortunately took place the next
morning. Being on the Head Quarter Staff, I was not, of course,
allowed to go, but I watched it from the walls where our riflemen
covered the advance of the attacking party and our big guns.
The village of Deh Khoja was only 700 yards off, and the enemy
fired at us tremendously. The troops advanced under a very
heavy fire, very steadily and well, and entered the village and
went right through it, but the place was like a rabbit warren right
through it, with very large loop-holed walls, from which the enemy
kept up an incessant fire without our men being able to see them,
and as soon as they were turned out of one enclosure they ran
into another, and back again into those they had been turned out
of, for our Forces were not strong enough to hold the enclosures
as they were taken, and all this time the enemy was pouring into
the village from Ayoub Khan's main Force. At last General
Primrose sent to order the Force to retreat, and no doubt poor
Brooke could have got away unhurt, but he stopped to bring
away a wounded officer, and so lost his life. We did not recover
the bodies of the killed until the 25th, 10 days after, when the
village was deserted by the enemy. I went to search for poor
Brooke, whom I recognised, and I buried him myself. I cannot
get over his loss. We have lived together since we came here,
and I have become very fond of him; I am sure he liked me,
and that I have lost a good friend in him. He was a fine fellow,
brave as a lion, and a thorough soldier in every way; clear-headed
and with excellent judgment. It is indeed grievously sad such a
fine fellow should have been lost, for he is a loss to the whole
army, in such a needless manner.
From Lieut. F.
26th February, 1881.
My dear Mrs. Brooke,
[Pg 180]
... He (General Brooke) was quite against the sortie,
but being put in command of it he was obliged to keep quiet.
General Nuttall, who commanded the Cavalry, and who was
senior to General Brooke, was ordered to co-operate with him.
After our Infantry, with whom General Brooke was, had penetrated
into the village, the General found that he could not hold
it, and sent a note in pencil to General Nuttall, who was with the
Cavalry, which was drawn up in line to the south of Deh Khoja, and
thus between it and the villages to the south, asking him to cover
the retreat from Deh Khoja. However, General Primrose, who
was looking on from the walls just about this time, sent his
orderlies, one to General Brooke, the other to General Nuttall,
ordering them both to retire. General Nuttall received the order
immediately after getting General Brooke's note, and instead
of doing what the latter requested, retired his Cavalry at once to
the City. The result was that the villagers of all the southern
villages instantly swarmed round Deh Khoja, and cut off the
retreat of the Infantry. These poor fellows had to run for their
lives through a gauntlet of fire. General Brooke got safely out
of the village, but went back with a few men to aid others, and in
trying to save Captain Cruikshank, of the Engineers, was shot
through the head and killed instantly. This, I believe, is the
full account of the disaster, which would not have occurred, if the
Cavalry had remained to cover the retreat.
From Colonel B.
Kandahar, 5th December, 1880.
My dear Mrs. Brooke,
... We had lived together up here, and I had learnt to love him as a
brother, for he was all that was noble and kind and generous, and
I felt his sad loss most truly and most deeply. I shall never forget
that fearful morning as long as I live. I was distracted when the
remnants of the Force returned and he was not with it. I fear I
forgot everyone else in my grief at losing my dearest friend, and
[Pg 181]the one head in whom we all placed full reliance and faith, and
regarding whom we universally felt, as long as he was with us, all
would be well. I can assure you, dear Mrs. Brooke, he was
beloved by every one here, and his loss was universally mourned
for as the greatest one that could have happened to us, for every
one appreciated his splendid soldier-like qualities and clear-headed
abilities, and as to his courage and determination it was
the admiration of everyone, so you must not think he was not
loved and valued here, for I have no hesitation in saying that he
possessed the love and confidence of everybody, for everybody
went to him for advice, and he never refused it to anyone.
Would that General Primrose had taken his advice, and stuck to
it alone, and then that wretched sortie would never have taken
place. I handed over his Letts' rough diary to Major H.,
and in that he records his opinion on the sortie when ordered the
week before, and which he prevented. Unfortunately, as he told
me himself, his mouth was closed on the second occasion, as he
was ordered to command the attacking Force, and it would appear
as if he was afraid, and besides he had given General Primrose
his opinion very clearly about it, on the previous occasion, and
the objections and arguments, he then made against it, had become
stronger, for it was known that the enemy had been busily
engaged all the week fortifying the place. I will not relate again
the particulars of that sad day, as I feel sure you must have,
before now, received the long account I sent through Major
H., and it is very painful to me to refer to it; suffice it to
say, that your dear Husband fell as a true and brave soldier, nobly
endeavouring to save the life of poor Captain Cruikshank, after
having remained to the very last in the village to collect all the
remaining men and bring them out. He might, no doubt, have
secured his own safety by retiring himself sooner, but he was not
the man to do so, as long as he thought there was anyone else left
behind, and in fact he was coming out with Colonel Daubeny's
party of the Fusiliers, by the north of the village, when he returned
to satisfy himself that no one was left behind, and he went right
[Pg 182]through the place again, and came out by the south, and it was
then, I understand, he found Captain Cruikshank and endeavoured
to bring him out. I am sure it will be a consolation to
you to know that he fell perfectly dead, and never suffered any
pain. I had this direct from his Trumpeter orderly, a European,
who was with him all the time, and by his side when he fell. I
examined him most minutely on this point, and he assured me
he never spoke a word when he fell, and I found a wound
through his body caused by a bullet, which must have caused
instant death.
From Col. E.
Simla,
12th October, 1880.
My dear Mr. Brooke,
... To all of us who knew your gallant Brother so well, and to
myself personally as an intimate friend, his death in action, nobly
striving to aid a wounded comrade, has been a painful blow. He
was so true and thorough a soldier that we had hoped for high
distinction for him when we heard he had been sent to Kandahar,
and his letters to me from that place were full of confidence. I
am sure that we shall yet learn that however depressed and
dispirited others may have been during the siege, that Henry
Brooke was never down-hearted, or anything else, but as brave a
soldier in life as he was in death.
From Col. W.
Poona, Bombay,
October, 1880.
My dear Mr. Brooke,
By this time, of course, you have full particulars of your
Brother's death, so it is needless for me to enter into the sad
details, but amidst all this sorrow which this has caused you and
[Pg 183]his other relations, is the proud recollection that no man ever died
more nobly, or as a soldier could wish for, whilst the high
estimation in which he was held by all who knew him, must be a
source of satisfaction to you all. For myself, I can only say that
I sympathise most truly with you all in the affliction which has
fallen on you, for though our acquaintance was not of long
standing, we were for the time thrown much together, and in him
I mourn a true friend, whose friendship and esteem it was an
honor to possess, and whose untimely fate I shall always deplore.
From Captain E.
Edinburgh,
20th November, 1880.
My dear Mrs. H.,
I was very glad to receive your kind note ...
We were all very much grieved to hear of poor General
Brooke's death under such sad circumstances, and for a time we
had great anxiety regarding the safety of Kandahar, for we all
knew and felt the great loss the garrison would sustain in his
death, as he was one of the very few they had to trust to. I
have heard several officers say, "Brooke was the life and soul of
the place during the siege."
From Lt.-Colonel White, V.C., C.B., 92nd Highlanders.
25th November, 1880.
My dear Brooke,
Your Brother's death gave me a greater shock than
any incident in the whole war. He died like the man I knew
him to be, and as you and I would like to die when our time
comes. It would be some consolation to you to hear the way he
is spoken of by all who knew him—"about the only man who held
his head up all through the Kandahar investment, and he had a
[Pg 184]cheery word and a helping hand for everyone." ...
The North of Ireland lost another fine fellow in Brownlow of the
72nd Highlanders. He and your brother Henry were perhaps
the two men most highly thought of in the armies occupying
Afghanistan.
From Sir G. K.
St. Stephen's Club, London,
27th August.
... I am so grieved to see the telegram announcing General
Brooke's death, and heartily sympathize with his Widow. He
was the ruling spirit of the Kandahar Force, and has died a
soldier's death, and left an honored name.
From Col. M.
St. James' Square, London,
2nd September, 1880.
Your Husband died nobly in the gallant attempt to save
another life: all honor, therefore, to his memory for so generously
giving his own, though it was given in vain. By his death the
Kandahar Garrison were deprived of their ablest leader, and the
Bombay Army has lost an Adjutant-General whose place will not
be easily filled. Personally I shall ever remember his kindness
to me while I had the pleasure to be associated with him on the
Bombay Staff.
From Lt.-Colonel White, V.C., C.B., 92nd Highlanders.
Government House,
20th December, 1880.
My dear Mrs. Brooke,
... I was but a very few days at Kandahar, but in those few days I
heard enough to know what a name the General had left behind
[Pg 185]him. Everyone I spoke to about him said, "that he had been so
looked up to and respected, that he had a cheery word and a
look of confidence for all his comrades throughout the investment,"
and at a time, when, I am sorry to say, men of his stamp were
badly wanted....
His heroic death speaks for itself; ...
and every officer I spoke to about him in Kandahar was as much
impressed by his tender devotion to others, as by the contempt
for personal danger which he had invariably shown....
I feel how inadequate anything I can write must appear to you,
but it may be gratifying to you to hear that at Bombay the most
universal regret was expressed to me for General Brooke, who
was known to everybody there, and the deepest sympathy with
you. Lord Ripon was only too glad to do all in his power to
carry out your wishes.
From Colonel Sir Andrew Clarke, K.C.M.G., R.E.
Bath, 23rd January, 1881.
My dear Mrs. Brooke,
I received back this morning the Journal which, with
a letter from Lord Hartington's Private Secretary, I now enclose,
and trust you will get them in safety. I have not proposed to
retain the Journal to be copied, as it has struck me you would
like this rather to be done under your own care than by anyone
else. You have, no doubt, heard from Lord Napier, as he will
have told you most probably of how much the recent successes
achieved by the Bengal Army are, in a great measure, due to the
aid and co-operation he received from your dear Husband, when
on his Staff whilst commanding and re-organizing that Army, and
I know that already had the discipline and morale of the Bombay
Army been raised and improved during the comparatively short
time my lost Friend had been its Adjutant-General. If I can be
of any service, do not hesitate to make use of me....
Yours very sincerely,
AN CLARKE.
[Pg 186]
India Office,
21st January, 1881.
Dear Sir Andrew Clarke,
Lord Hartington desires me to return to you the
Journal of the late General Brooke, and to beg you to convey to
Mrs. Brooke how much he appreciates her kindness in having
allowed him the opportunity of reading an account, so full of
interest, in the scenes of which so important a part was taken by
her gallant and much-lamented Husband. I am to add, that it
gave Lord Hartington much satisfaction to receive the messages
you were good enough to send him from Mrs. Brooke.
I remain,
Faithfully yours,
R. H. HOBART.
Private.
War Office,
23rd December, 1880.
My dear Clarke,
I sat up till 1 a.m., reading poor General Brooke's
most interesting Journal. I am very glad indeed to have been
allowed to peruse it. It proves (if proof beyond what we have
had been wanted) how good a soldier and administrator he was;
and his criticisms on others never go beyond the line, which
habits of discipline and good sense lay down. Forgive me for
having kept it so long, but until yesterday I have not had any
spare time.
Yours very sincerely,
HUGH R. CHILDERS.
From the Honorable E. Stanhope.
3, West Eaton Place, S.W.,
January 28th, 1881.
Mr. Edward Stanhope presents his compliments to Mrs.
[Pg 187]Henry Brooke, and begs to return herewith the later parts of
General Brooke's Journal. No one could read it without the
greatest interest. It conveys a vivid picture of the events recorded
in it, and makes one feel again the great loss which the Country
has sustained by the death of one whose cool head and discretion
are conspicuous throughout its pages. Mr. Stanhope cannot
presume to say more to Mrs. Brooke, but in thanking her for the
favor which she has shown to him in allowing the perusal of the
Journal, he can only say that he shall be glad, if the opportunity
should ever arise, of publicly bearing his testimony to the value
of the services recorded in it.
3, West Eaton Place,
April 4th.
My dear Mrs. Brooke,
I return, with many thanks, the last parts of General
Brooke's Notes, and the Letters. They have had very great
interest for me, and make one bitterly regret—more than ever—the
blunders which led to so much national disaster, and to the
irreparable loss of valuable lives. With renewed thanks.
Believe me, yours very faithfully,
EDWARD STANHOPE.
From H. E. Sir James Fergusson, Governor of Bombay.
Bombay,
18th January, 1881.
Sir James Fergusson presents his compliments to Lady
Arabella Brooke, and begs to apologise for not having sooner
replied to her Ladyship's letter of the 27th October.
Before he received it, all necessary orders had been given for
the suitable transport of the remains of the late and lamented
[Pg 188]Brigadier-General Brooke, and Sir James Fergusson trusts
that her Ladyship has been sensible that nothing has been omitted
which could mark the respect entertained by the Government,
the Services, and the public, for an officer whose loss was universally
deplored, and whose death was so honorable.
Sir J. Fergusson ventures to offer his sincere sympathy and
condolence with the family so grievously bereaved.
From Lord Napier of Magdala.
Gibraltar,
March 19th, 1881.
My dear Mrs. Brooke,
... It must have been a melancholy satisfaction to you to have
been able to consign the precious remains of your noble Husband
to the resting-place of his Family—a sad duty, but one of infinite
value to you. It is grievous to think that if his advice had been
listened to, the lives of many valuable men, as well as his own,
might have been saved.... Lady Napier
desires her love. With kindest remembrances and regards.
Believe me,
Yours very sincerely,
NAPIER OF MAGDALA.
From Lieut. C.
Kandahar,
11th January, 1881.
My dear Annie,
... Very few enjoy such general respect and admiration when
living, or when gone cause such universal expressions of praise and
regret. I am now living with the 7th Fusiliers, and I assure you
[Pg 189]when I came up, and now when alluded to, no officer seemed
then, or now, to be able to say enough in praise of his late
Brigadier, and many have some kind act or word to record, as
either received at his hands or spoken to them during the siege.
In the Bombay Gazette of the 1st inst., there is an article in
which the way in which Brigade Commands are given, often to
people who have never, since boy service, done anything but
staff work in an office, is spoken of, and asking how such officers,
save in certain exceptions, can be expected to be efficient in the
field, and it goes on to say, "we have on more than one occasion
testified to our admiration of General Brooke's splendid
qualities as a soldier, while, as time goes on, the heroic manner
of his death will more and more command admiration."
I don't think in March, when the appointment was made,
there was a dissenting voice or a doubt expressed that it was
otherwise than the best that could be made. On the last night
of the old year there was a large fire in the Citadel Square, round
which all the soldiers had been singing; on our going out after
mess to join them, they sang a song all about the siege and
sortie, recounting where and how they had lost their Brigadier,
officers, and men, the chorus of which was—
"All honor now to General Brooke,
Who in his grave does lie,
And fighting for Queen and country,
Did like a soldier die."
Of course it is soldier's language, but it nevertheless is expressive
of their feelings.
From Captain C.
... General Brooke was respected and beloved by every man
and officer in the Force, and esteemed by everyone. He gave
me my orders on that fatal day, when he fell, and I was never
near him afterwards, for he met his death, with one of our Colour-Sergeants,
[Pg 190]while nobly assisting Captain Cruikshank, R.E., who
was badly wounded; but the name of General Brooke will long
be remembered, and in his death we have lost one of our best
Officers....
The English Army met with a great loss in General Brooke,
beloved and respected as he was by all the Brigade....
General Brooke was beloved by all who knew him, and the
Soldiers worshipped him....
109th Regiment,
Aldershot, September 6th.
Dear Captain Brooke,
Will you kindly forward the enclosed Regimental
Card, "with sincere condolence" to Mrs. Brooke. I do not
know her address, and we are desirous (though we do not know
her personally) to express our sympathy for her in her late
bereavement, as General Brooke was such a favourite with all
of the Regiment who knew him.
Believe me,
Very truly yours,
R. PRIOLEAU SIMPSON.
Lieut.-Col. Lucas,
and the Officers 109TH Regiment,
With sincere Condolence.
From Captain Cartwright, 48th Regiment.
Tipperary, 30th June, 1881.
My dear Brooke,
Many thanks for your letter and for the two Photos.
enclosed, both of which have taken their place in our Regimental
[Pg 191]Walhalla, and I hope will be handed down to posterity, carrying
with them the recollection of old Officers, and one certainly a
very distinguished Officer, of whom any regiment may be proud
as having been numbered in its ranks. I return you the old
Photograph of your Brother (General Brooke), for I fancy you
may value it. Both in front and on the back there is his handwriting....
Yours sincerely,
R. A. CARTWRIGHT.
From Colonel Forbes, Commanding 109th Regiment.
Aldershot, July 2nd, 1881.
Dear Sir,
Will you kindly convey to Mrs. Henry Brooke the
best thanks of the Officers 109th Regiment, for sending us the
Photograph of our late comrade, General Brooke, which, I need
hardly say, we highly appreciate, and have placed in the Regimental
Album.
Yours very truly,
CHAS. FORBES,
Lieut.-Col. Commanding 109th Regt.
[Pg 192]
Extract from the "Irish Times," August 25th, 1880.
AFGHANISTAN.
THE SORTIE FROM KANDAHAR.
HEAVY BRITISH LOSSES.
LIST OF KILLED AND WOUNDED OFFICERS.
"From Viceroy, August 24.
"Following from St. John, Kandahar, 21st:—Sortie took
place on 16th against village on east face of City. Has secured
us from further molestation on that side, but loss very heavy.
"KILLED.
"Brigadier-General Brooke, Captain Cruikshank, R.E.; Col.
Newport, 28th; Major Trench, Lieutenant Stayner, 19th;
Lieutenants Marsh and Wood, Fusiliers, and Rev. Mr. Gordon.
"WOUNDED.
"Colonel Nimmo, 28th; Major Vandeleur, 7th; and Lieutenant
Wood, Transport (all severely); Colonels Malcolmson and Shewell.
"Casualties among men, about 180.
"A messenger has also come in from Kandahar. The position
there is regarded as perfectly safe. A sortie was made on the
16th, and Colonel St. John reports that its result has been to
secure the east face of the City from further molestation.
"The enemy must, however, have fought with great determination,
as our loss is heavy, especially in Officers.
"We have lost in killed and wounded, about 180 men. Of
Officers, General Brooke, Colonel Newport, of the 28th Regiment;
Major Trench, and Lieut. Stayner, of the 19th Regiment;
Captain Cruikshank, R.E.; Lieutenants Marsh and Wood, of the
7th Fusiliers; and the Rev. Mr. Gordon, are killed. Colonel
[Pg 193]Nimmo, of the 28th; Major Vandeleur, of the 7th, and Lieutenant
Wood, of the Transport Corps, severely wounded; and Colonels
Malcolmson and Shewell, slightly wounded.
"General Brooke was killed while carrying Cruikshank,
wounded, out of action."
28th August.]
181
GENERAL ORDER
BY
HIS EXCELLENCY THE COMMANDER-IN-CHIEF.
Adjutant-General's Office, Head Quarters, Poona,
28th August, 1880.
It is with much regret that the Commander-in-Chief has to
announce the death of Brigadier-General H. F. Brooke, Adjutant-General,
Bombay Army.
Brigadier-General Brooke having been selected for the command
of a Brigade in Southern Afghanistan was, at the time of
his death, engaged in command of a sortie made by the Garrison
of Kandahar, and is reported to have been killed whilst endeavouring
to succour a wounded brother Officer.
His Excellency desires to place on record his appreciation of
the valuable services and willing assistance rendered at all times
by the late Brigadier-General Brooke, and the high estimation in
which his abilities and soldierly qualities were held by all who
knew him.
The Commander-in-Chief feels sure that all ranks will sympathise
with him in the loss the service has sustained in the noble
death of so able an Officer, whilst gallantly engaged in the performance
of his duties on active service in the field.
By order of His Excellency the Commander-in-Chief,
ALEX. WARDROP, Lieutenant-Colonel,
Officiating Adjutant-General.
[Pg 194]
DEATH OF BRIGADIER-GENERAL BROOKE.
We regret to announce the death of this gallant gentleman,
which took place under circumstances rendering the event very
sad indeed. Brigadier-General Henry Francis Brooke, who
was only forty-four years of age, was in command of the 2nd
Infantry Brigade Kandahar Field Force, and took part in the
sortie from the garrison on the 16th of August, which resulted in
securing the east face of the city from further molestation by the
besieging force. He had come out of action unhurt; but with
a humanity which adds lustre to his gallantry, he endeavoured to
carry away a wounded brother officer, Captain Cruikshank, R.E.,
and while engaged in this act of friendship and of mercy he was
killed by a shot from the enemy. Brigadier-General Brooke was
eldest son of the late Mr. G. Brooke and Lady Arabella Brooke,
of Ashbrooke, in the County Fermanagh, and was of the same
family as Sir Victor Brooke, Bart., of Colebrooke, in that County.
He entered the army in June, 1854, and his promotion was as
follows:—Lieutenant, May, '55; Captain, September, '58; Major,
February, '61; Lieut.-Col, December, '71; Colonel, February,
'77. In April, 1855, he landed in the Crimea with the 48th
Regiment, and served at the siege and fall of Sebastopol, for
which he obtained a medal with clasp and a Turkish medal. He
served also throughout the campaign of 1860 in China, as aide-de-camp
to Sir Robert Napier, and was present at the actions of
Sinho and Tangku, the assault of the Taku Forts, at which he
was severely wounded, and the final advance on and surrender of
Pekin, for which he received a medal with two clasps and the
brevet-rank of Major. Subsequently he held the post of Adjutant-General
in Bombay, with the local rank of Brigadier-General.
He was a gallant officer, sprung from a gallant race, and one
more of those brave men who have sustained and increased the
military fame of Fermanagh.
[Pg 195]
BRIGADIER-GENERAL BROOKE.
Brigadier-General Henry Francis Brooke, killed in the
sortie at Kandahar on the 16th August, is the first general officer
of Her Majesty's army who has fallen in action since 1858. The
last two instances were those of Brigadier-Generals the Hon.
Adrian Hope and Penny, C.B., who were killed within three
weeks of each other, the former officer in Oude and the latter in
Rohilcund. The sad circumstances of the gallant Adrian Hope's
death will long be remembered, as well as the causes which led
to the sacrifice of so many precious lives through the rashness of
General Walpole.
The late Brigadier-General Brooke was one of the youngest
Colonels in our army, he having obtained his Brevet-Colonelcy in
less than 23 years after his entry into the Service. He joined the
army in June, 1854, and as a Subaltern landed with the 48th
Foot in the Crimea on the 21st April, 1855, serving at the siege
and fall of Sebastopol. After the war he accompanied the 48th
to India, and went as aide-de-camp to Sir Robert Napier on the
China expedition, serving throughout the campaign of 1860, and
taking part in the actions of Sinho and Tangku, the assault of the
Taku Forts (severely wounded), and the final advance on and
surrender of Pekin. For his China services he received a brevet
majority, dated the 15th February, 1861. He afterwards exchanged
into the 94th, and was selected for staff employ in the
Bengal Presidency at the close of 1864, when he was appointed
Assistant Adjutant-General of the Presidency Division. Colonel
Brooke was subsequently Assistant Adjutant-General at Mean
Meer, and in November, 1877, was selected to succeed Brigadier
Aitchison as Adjutant-General of the Bombay army. On the
formation of a Bombay corps for service in Afghanistan, Brigadier
Brooke was one of the first officers selected for command, and was
[Pg 196]sent to Kandahar with General Primrose. He bore a very high
reputation in the service as a first-rate officer, and his loss will be
greatly felt, especially at such a crisis when reliable leaders are so
much needed at the seat of war.
The deceased belonged to an old Irish family, the Brookes,
of Colebrooke, County Fermanagh, and was a cousin of the Earl
of Huntington, his mother, Lady Arabella Hastings, having been
a sister of the late peer. An uncle of the deceased, Lieutenant
Francis Brooke, 7th Dragoon Guards, was slain at Waterloo.
The family has furnished our army with several officers of
distinction.
It seems to us that the death of Colonel Brooke in the sortie
of the 16th was a peculiarly sad one. No doubt it was the death
which this gallant and distinguished officer would have preferred.
It was, we take it, a soldier's death, realised at the head of his
men. But there are enemies and enemies, and certainly a soldier
might be excused if he shrank from having his throat cut by a
fanatic, fighting in a cause which on the British side is not by any
means clear. Colonel Brooke, as our notice of his service will
show, had led a brilliant military career. He entered the army
in time to take part in the Crimea war, and was present at the
siege and fall of Sebastopol. Subsequently he shared the perils
of the war in China, and was engaged in the assault on the Taku
Forts, where he was severely wounded. It is true that a British
officer must be prepared to face death wherever he may be sent
to meet his country's enemies. But in the Crimea and in China
there was a tangible object to be realised sufficient to justify the
campaign, and to lift the enterprise from the miserable conflict
which is now being raged, through no fault of ours, in Afghanistan.
Colonel Brooke, like other gallant officers and men who
have fallen with him, adds very heavily to the already too heavy
losses of the war in Afghanistan.—Broad Arrow.
[Pg 197]
THE LATE BRIGADIER-GENERAL BROOKE.
On Friday evening the sad ceremony of transferring the remains
of the late Brigadier-General Brooke, from the I.G.S.
Dalhousie to the troopship Serapis, took place in the Bombay
Harbour, in the presence of a large number of the deceased
Officer's sorrowing friends and comrades. The circumstances
under which General Brooke met with his death in the sortie
from Kandahar, whilst endeavouring to rescue a wounded Brother
Officer, are too fresh in the minds of our readers to require any
recapitulation from us. He died nobly as became a soldier, and
it was only fitting when his remains were passing through this
City for interment in his native land, that those who had known
and respected him during life, and others who knew him only by
his deeds and his glorious death, should meet and offer their
tribute of respect to his memory. It will be remembered that the
deceased's body was not recovered until several days after the
memorable sortie; but when found it was buried with the
customary military honours at Kandahar. Subsequently General
Brooke's friends expressed a wish that the body should be buried
in Ireland, and, accordingly the remains were exhumed and
brought to Kurrachee last Sunday. A party of the 98th Regiment
escorted the remains from M'Leod Station to the Kurrachee
Arsenal, the band of the Regiment accompanying the procession
and playing the Dead March in Saul. It was at first intended
that the body should be handed over to the Rev. Kilbee Stuart,
with a view of its transmission to England, but a communication
was received from the authorities to the effect that the Secretary
of State had issued orders that it was to be sent home in a troopship.
In accordance with these instructions, the body was, on
Tuesday, placed on board the I.G.S. Dalhousie for conveyance to
Bombay, where it was to be transhipped to the troopship Serapis.
[Pg 198]The Dalhousie arrived in harbour yesterday morning at about
nine o'clock, flying its flag at half-mast, and having its yard arms
"cock billed," or placed in transverse positions, the usual manner
of denoting that a vessel carries the mortal remains of some
distinguished personage. After the Dalhousie had entered the
harbour, the Government and other ships in the fort hauled their
flags down to half-mast point, in which position they remained
during the whole of the day. Orders had been issued by the
military authorities directing that the transfer of the body from
one ship to another should be attended with every mark of respect;
and accordingly, yesterday evening, shortly before five o'clock,
there was a large gathering of Military Officers on board, and in
the vicinity of the Dalhousie to take part in this ceremony to the
honoured dead. The body on its leaving Kurrachee was encased
in a shell coffin of common wood; but on its arrival in Bombay
it was transferred to a handsome teak wood coffin, with brass
handles and furniture. No inscription appeared upon the lid,
this work being left for a future occasion. Amongst those who
took part in the ceremony were:—Brigadier-General C. T.
Aitchison, C.B.; Colonels A. H. Dawson, R.A., and J. F.
Chapman, 28th N.I.; Lieutenant-Colonels C. S. Stuart, 21st
N.I., J. Jameson, 25th N.I., and C. P. Stokes, 2/4th K.O.; Majors
C. C. Gore, 83rd Foot and Latham, R.A.; the Ven. Archdeacon
Sharpin; Captains R. A. Knox, 2/4th K.O., C. T., Echalaz, 21st
N.I., W. G. Muloy, R.A., H. B. Lawrence, 2/4th K.O., J. de B.
Lynch, 25th N.I., R. S. Simpson, 21st N.I., and M. E. Crofton,
2/4th K.O.; Lieutenant A. J. P. Nuttall, 25th N.I.; A. B. Mein,
21st N.I.; J. Rawlandson, 2/4th N.I.; J. M. Gawne, 2/4th; G.
E. Evans, 21st N.I.; C. B. Adams, 21st N.I.; H. O. Powell,
25th N.I.; Matthews, 2/4th; P. R. Simmonds, 10/9th R.A.; A.
B. Ridley, 2/4th; E. Dolphin, 2/4th; J. W. Tritton, 2/4th; G.
V. Burrows, 25th N.I.; Paymaster J. W. Deage, 2/4th; Quartermaster
H. Rowland, 2/4th; and Surgeons-Major J. Parr, A.M.D.,
Codrington, A.M.D., Robinson, A.M.D., and Thorpe, I.M.D.;
Captain Mellis, Assistant Quartermaster-General; Captain Moore,
[Pg 199]Deputy Assistant Quartermaster-General; Captain Middlemass,
Deputy Assistant Adjutant-General; Major Spring, R.A., Commissary
of Ordnance; Captain Davis, R.A., Assistant Commissary
of Ordnance. At the appointed time, the coffin, which was
covered with the Union Jack, was placed on board a ship's boat
by several sturdy Tars from the Serapis, the boats containing the
mourners, in the meantime taking up their position in the rear of
the corpse. The boat containing the body slowly moved off
under the tow of the steam-launch Lorelie. Immediately following
the boat containing the corpse was one with Brigadier-General
Aitchison, who acted as chief mourner, on board; and twelve
other craft, carrying the remainder of the mourners. As the
procession moved away, the yard arms of the Dalhousie were
placed in their proper positions, and minute guns were fired from
the Apollo Bunder Saluting Battery, until the deck of the Serapis
was reached. On arrival at the Serapis the mourners disembarked
from their boats, and the coffin having been placed in slings, was
conveyed to the deck, where it was received with due honours,
the mourners and crew of the vessel all uncovering their heads in
token of respect. The body having been placed in the mortuary
of the troopship, the mournful ceremony terminated, and the
mourners left for the shore in their respective boats. We believe
that the deceased's remains, on arrival at Portsmouth, will be
forwarded to Ashbrooke, Brookeboro', Fermanagh, Ireland, his
native place, for final interment. We should not omit to mention
that in addition to the naval and military mourners who took
part in the procession, the ceremony was watched with interest by
a number of private spectators seated in boats.
[Pg 200]
11th November, 1880.
The Galley of "Serapis" will be at Apollo Pier for the Brigadier-General,
at 4·30 p.m., Friday.
Steam Pinnace will be there at same time to take Pall Bearers
to "Dalhousie" at once.
"Serapis'" 2nd Gig will follow Galley in procession with Officers
of the "Serapis."
Six Cutters belonging to ships of the Indian Marine will be at
Apollo Pier at 4·30 p.m. to embark Officers for procession.
Minute Guns should commence firing when body leaves "Dalhousie."
A flag will be shown at Fore Mast-head of "Dalhousie"
at that time.
THE LATE BRIGADIER-GENERAL BROOKE.
A noble Fermanagh man and a gallant soldier was committed
to his last resting place on Tuesday at Colebrooke, one at whose
loss the nation grieved, and one for whom the army he commanded
has mourned. Brigadier-General Brooke died not only
a soldier's death, but the noblest death—for he fell not only at
the call of duty but in an act of christian benevolence, in saving
the life of a brother officer. There is not a Fermanagh man at
home or abroad, by the country fireside or in a foreign land, but
will join with our gracious sovereign in sympathy with the widow
and the fatherless in their sad bereavement.
FUNERAL OF THE LATE GENERAL H. F. BROOKE.
(FROM A CORRESPONDENT).
The remains of the late General Brooke, which had been
brought home from Kandahar, and arrived in H.M. Ship "Serapis"
on the 11th inst., were interred in the family burial ground at
[Pg 201]Colebrooke, on Tuesday, the 14th. The coffin, which was
covered with the Union Jack, on which were placed numerous
wreaths of white flowers, was carried by men of the 94th regiment,
under the command of Captain Lionel Brooke, 94th regiment
(brother of the deceased). The chief mourners were—George
Cecil Brooke (son of the deceased), Captain Arthur Brooke,
Royal Navy, Captain Hastings Brooke, Captain Lionel Brooke,
94th regiment, and Frank Brooke, Esq. (brothers of the deceased),
and Major Hall, of Narrow-water, Warrenpoint (brother-in-law).
Amongst those present were—Viscount Cole, M.P; Viscount
Crichton, M.P.; Lieut. Campbell, 94th regiment; Lieut. Mackan,
94th regiment; Captain Lemon and Lieut. Bradshaw, Armagh
Militia; George F. Brooke, Esq.; F. Wrench, Esq.; J. C.
Bloomfield, Esq.; Dr. R. P. Walsh; Major R. C. D. Ellis; C.
Richardson, Esq.; and five hundred of the Colebrooke Tenantry
followed the remains to the grave. The deepest sorrow was
shown by all for the loss of one who had been so well known and
beloved by them all. During the day a telegram was received
by Lady Arabella Brooke, from the Dowager Marchioness of Ely,
expressing the sincere sympathy of Her Majesty the Queen with
her and Mrs. Brooke in their great sorrow. The coffin, which
was made at Bombay of teak, had on a brass plate with the
following inscription:—
Brigadier-General
H. F. BROOKE,
Born 3rd August, 1836;
Killed in action,
Kandahar, Southern Afghanistan,
16th August, 1880,
Aged 44 years.
The coffin was brought from England by Captain Arthur
Brooke and arrived at Colebrooke on Monday at 12 o'clock,
where it lay in the entrance hall, and was visited by Mrs. Brooke
and the children of the late General Brooke, who placed wreaths
of white flowers on the coffin. Mrs. Hall, of Narrow-water,
[Pg 202]also placed a beautiful wreath of white flowers intermingled with
sprays of a fern which General Brooke had sent home from the
foot of the Bolan Pass, near Kandahar, and which is now growing
at Narrow-water. Wreaths were also placed on the coffin by
Lady Arabella Brooke, Mrs. Frank Brooke, Lady Hume, and
other friends. General Brooke was killed whilst trying to carry
Captain Cruikshank, a wounded brother officer, out of action,
and General Brooke was heard to say, when the enemy were
closing round him, that he would not leave the village until the
last man and the last case of ammunition were out of it, and it
was in waiting so long under a galling fire, and then trying to
carry a wounded man, that he met his death.
EXTRACT FROM A SPEECH MADE IN ENNISKILLEN
BY THE RIGHT HON. H. CHILDERS,
SEPTEMBER 22nd, 1880.
... to another sentence in the generous address, in which he was
introduced as having charge of one of the great departments of
the State, and they reminded him of what Enniskillen had done
for that department. The charge which he had was a most
onerous one, and was likely not to be less onerous during the
future. But it was a great satisfaction to him to be able to think
that such glories as had been attached to the British arms in past
and present deeds of arms were connected with this country and
ancient borough. The two regiments which sprang from the
town, he was happy to know, were steadily recruited from its
people, and were among the most gallant in the British army.
(Applause). They had sent into the service of Her Majesty
men who had risen to the greatest honours and positions as
commanders of men. The right honourable gentleman then
referred to the great loss the British army had sustained in the
loss of one of its greatest generals—General Brooke, who had
lost his life in Afghanistan. He was one of the best soldiers in
[Pg 203]the British army. He was a marked man, who was certain to rise
to a place of the greatest distinction. Just before the news came
by telegraph of General Brooke's untimely death, he was reading
some letters of the General which showed such good sense and
practical knowledge as fitted a distinguished general officer, and
he felt certain Her Majesty could have no more efficient or useful
soldier. All honour to his memory—he died in the attempt to
save a brother officer—and he (the speaker) would appeal to the
men of Fermanagh to follow his worthy example. He was afraid
he was keeping them too long. (No, no). He thanked them
very much for their kind reception, and his wife and daughter
heartily joined in the thanks.
THE LATE CAPTAIN CRUIKSHANK, R.E.
TO THE EDITOR OF THE "BOMBAY GAZETTE."
Sir,—I venture to send you the accompanying extract from a
letter received from Kandahar, thinking that the many friends of
the late Captain Cruikshank, R.E., may like to know how highly
he was thought of. If a dark cloud at present hangs over the
Bombay Army, here at least is the "silver lining" amid the
general gloom. "Poor Cruikshank was a great friend of mine, as
indeed, he would be of anyone who got to know him well. His
duty was to blow up the walls of Deh Khoja with gunpowder. He
dined with me on the 15th, and was as cool in talking over his
work for next morning as if it were the ordinary work. He went
out to the village, and set about his mining operations in the
same cool way. When he received his first wound, either in the
side or in the hip, General Brooke helped him outside the City
(village) walls, and then got him into a doolie, but, I suppose, the
doolie-bearers fled. Then General Brooke would not leave him,
and they died side by side. All the wounds received that day
were very severe ones, as all were in such close quarters, and the
enemy, posted on roofs, shot downwards. Cruikshank was thus
[Pg 204]shot. The enemy rushed out on our retreating troops, and cut
them up at once, so poor Cruikshank would not be long left in
pain. When I saw his body, 10 days after, it was clear his end
had been speedy. The body was not, however, mutilated at all.
His clothes were left on, and his butler's watch, with some maps,
were found in his pocket. He was a very regular communicant,
and even during the siege, when he was worked on Sunday as
hard as on other days, he generally (if not always) managed to
get to church for the mid-day service. He communicated last on
the 15th of August, i.e., the day before he died. I had formed
a very high opinion of poor Cruikshank as an R.E. Officer. He
always seemed to me to be at work, and never seemed to talk
about it; so after his death I asked his Commanding Officer if I
had formed a too high opinion of him, and I should wish any of
poor Cruikshank's friends to have heard his reply. He said he
would sooner have lost any two men in the Garrison, not excluding
the highest, than poor Cruikshank. He always did any work
he was put to, at once, and well. For days and days he worked
away outside under the walls, exposed to the enemy's fire, and
never seemed to think of it. His Commanding Officer said he
deserved a V.C., and had he lived he would have tried to get it
for him. I can't tell you half he (the C.O.) said, but I never
heard an Officer so spoken of by his immediate superiors in my
life before." Alas, that sad day, the 16th of August, which saw
such noble spirits, Brooke and Cruikshank, who were indeed
"lovely and pleasant in their lives, and in death were not
divided," left dead upon that fatal field.—I am, &c.,
HIS MOST INTIMATE FRIEND.
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