The Project Gutenberg eBook of /* Price, Ten Cents */, by AUTHOR.

CORTICELLI
... SPOOL SILK

and BUTTONHOLE TWIST.

made expressly for
dressmaking and family sewing.

It works EQUALLY WELL for hand
or machine use.

Corticelli is the Smoothest,
Strongest, and Best
Sewing Silk made.

Both Spool Silk and Buttonhole
Twist are made in
colors to match all seasonable
dress goods found in
the market.

For Sixty Years

CORTICELLI SILK

has been the favorite with
the leading dressmakers
of this country.

they RECOMMEND and
USE IT.

NONOTUCK SILK COMPANY,

Bridge Street, Florence, Mass.

CORTICELLI
HOME NEEDLEWORK

Introduction.

IN the endeavor to make this book larger and better than any previous edition we have called to our aid some of the best needleworkers and designers in this country, and the result is that we have the choicest collection of embroidery designs for home decoration it has ever been our privilege to present.

We have been fortunate in securing the services of Mrs. Wilson, Mrs. Haywood, Miss Morse, Miss Hallowell, and Mrs. Smith. Their designs are always greatly admired, and undoubtedly many of our readers will prefer to embroider their patterns, taking advantage of this opportunity to study the treatment these well known authorities furnish for their special designs.

Special attention is called to the Corticelli Colored Plates, which are the only accurate reproductions of embroidery in natural colors ever published. Aside from their beauty they will be found of great value to every needleworker, as they show not only the correct shading of each flower, but also the length and direction of the stitches.

We show several very attractive designs for knitted fancy tops for golf and bicycle stockings, and the rules given are from practical patterns knit from wool and silk.

To many needleworkers this may be the first Corticelli instruction book they have seen. From such we invite the closest examination of our goods, feeling confident that intelligent women can in this way readily appreciate the superior quality of Corticelli Silk.

Fancy Work Books.

From 1887 to 1896 we published an illustrated instruction book in the use of silk called "Florence Home Needlework." The subjects treated in the different editions embrace every variety of useful and decorative needlework. There are ten different editions, each containing 96 pages, as follows:

One Florence Home Needlework book will be mailed to any address on receipt of 6 cents; any 5 books for 25 cents, or the entire series will be sent for 50 cents. In ordering mention editions wanted by year.

There is no book for 1897.

Hints Upon the Selection of Material.

Often the most difficult task for many women is choosing the proper shades of silk to embroider a certain stamped linen. Usually the dealer from whom you purchase your Corticelli Silk will advise you in regard to this, but when one lives in one of the smaller towns no store will be found which carries a good stock of embroidery materials from which to make a selection. In this case the best thing to do is to send six 2 cent stamps to the Nonotuck Silk Co., Bridge Street, Florence, Mass., for a Corticelli Color Card, showing over 325 different shades in which Corticelli Wash Silk is made. The card also shows samples of the various silks, as Filo Silk, Roman Floss, Persian Floss etc. The owner of a Color Card can order by number Corticelli Silk from her storekeeper, either by mail or in person. Few realize what a convenience this is.

Many do not understand the great difference in embroidery silks, and often inferior kinds are sold them by unscrupulous clerks. Corticelli Silk is smooth working, of high luster, and is free from imperfections in stock or finish, while the dyes used are remarkable for brilliancy and absolute fastness of color. Magnificent mills, modern machinery, and sixty years experience in manufacturing silk enable the Nonotuck Silk Company to produce as perfect embroidery silk and floss as can be made.

Many realize only too late that they should have been more careful in buying the right brand of Wash Silk. The old saying, "The best is always the cheapest," comes back to those who have had some disappointing experience with a patiently worked centerpiece or doily which failed to stand the final test—the test of washing. Corticelli Silk took the highest award at the Cotton States and International Exposition held at Atlanta, Ga., 1895, as well as first prize at the Chicago World's Fair, 1893, and at the California Midwinter Exposition, 1894. Besides this we call your attention to the large number of well known needlework authorities that recommend its use. These[Pg 6] facts alone should induce you to give Corticelli a trial in case you have never done so.

For fine and delicate shading on any smooth closely woven material, especially linen, use Corticelli Filo Silk (sometimes called Filo Floss). Owing to its fine size and loose twist a skillful worker can blend the shades with the utmost nicety, so that flowers, leaves, fruits, or other objects are most faithfully reproduced.

Corticelli Persian Floss is a silk of two strands, loosely twisted and of high luster, for work where two threads of Filo would ordinarily be required. Persian Floss is used extensively for the buttonhole edges of doilies and centerpieces, first padding the scallops with a few stitches as shown in Fig. VI a, page 17; or the buttonhole edge may be worked without padding as desired. Corticelli Filo Silk and Corticelli EE Embroidery Silk are also sometimes used for this work.

Corticelli Roman Floss is somewhat coarser than Corticelli Persian Floss and is intended for embroidering large designs on heavier material. Curtains, counterpanes, and cushions are worked with this thread, although for very bold designs Corticelli Rope Silk is preferable.

Corticelli Etching Silk, as its name implies, is for outline embroidery and etching. Corticelli Lace Embroidery Silk should be used for Honiton and lace work of similar nature. Corticelli EE Embroidery Silk is best suited for general fancy work and crazy patchwork. This silk is quite hard twisted and is therefore very durable.

Avoid all risk of rust or stain by using an earthen wash bowl in preference to a tin or wooden tub. Wash by dipping in suds as hot as the hand can comfortably bear, made with "Ivory" or any other pure soap.

If there are any spots on the article wash them out first, before wetting the entire piece. Beyond this do not rub or fold, but plunge the linen up and down in the suds. If it is very much soiled or yellow, a half teaspoonful of borax may be added without the least danger to the silk. Carefully avoid washing powders and cheap soaps. When clean rinse by plunging up and down in several tepid waters or until the water remains perfectly clear. If the soap is not entirely removed by rinsing, the linen will yellow quickly.

Dry partially by laying between two soft cloths or towels for a few minutes. A new and very successful method for drying and pressing, especially small sized linens, is as follows: Lay them close and smooth on a marble slab or board. The woof and warp should be drawn perfectly straight and the stitches of the embroidery should be brought into position—that is, so they will lie as placed when worked. To dry a large article, place a sheet on the[Pg 7] carpet and pin the piece through it to the carpet straight by the edges, stretching a little. The drying may be hastened by fanning or by holding a hot iron within half an inch of the surface. Doilies pinned to a board or frame may be dried in a minute by holding them in front of a register, and thus treated they should need no pressing with an iron.

Larger linens may be placed on a fine sheet, face downward, and "touched up" with a moderately hot iron; the marks of the pins may be removed by dampening and pressing. Imperfections in the linen's smoothness may be dampened but the silk should not be wet. The hem will likely need firm pressing; fringe should be brushed and lightly combed out; it will then likely need a little trimming.

All Corticelli Silk will remain fast in color if these directions for washing are followed, and the laundered embroidery will appear no different from that just finished. The peculiar luster, or bloom, of this beautiful silk will be retained if the new method of quick drying, under tension, is carried out.

To set embroidery for the first time, dampen the linen and silk on the wrong side and dry quickly before removing from the hoop. In all cases of fabrics that are not washable set embroidery by pasting on the reverse side.

Many ladies who embroider frequently complain that wash silk does not work smoothly, that the silk snarls or ravels, making a bad-looking piece of work, without saying anything about trying one's patience.

"Now, what makes my silk snarl?" is heard only too often. They frequently assign the cause of the trouble to the silk, when, in reality it is the fault of the needle they are using.

Some teachers recommend the use of an ordinary sewing needle with a round eye, but I prefer the long eye or "Crewel" needle. If you want to do fine work, shading closely, and are using double (two threads of) Corticelli Filo Silk, use a No. 8 "Crewel" needle. For single (one thread of) Corticelli Filo Silk use a No. 9 or a No. 10 needle, depending on the material upon which you are working. Generally speaking, use a No. 10 needle, especially for bolting cloth, Chinese linen, or grass linen. Corticelli Persian Floss requires a No. 8 needle. In working Corticelli Etching Silk choose a No. 7 needle. For Corticelli Roman Floss use a No. 6 needle. Use a No. 3 or a No. 6 needle for Corticelli Rope Silk.

Harper's Queen Crewel Needles are the best, and I advise all needleworkers to insist upon having them.

By following the above instructions there will be no excuse for unsatisfactory working of Corticelli Silk.

As a matter of fact no two needleworkers will use the same quantity of silk to work the same centerpiece or doily. One will require nearly or quite twice as much as another, perhaps, owing to the method of treatment or the way the shading is done. It is therefore almost impossible to advise customers just how much silk they will need.

In nearly all the instructions we have given the maximum quantity of silk required to embroider a 22 inch centerpiece. You may not need as much as the directions call for. Of course smaller sizes of linen will take less silk to work them, and the necessary quantity can readily be estimated.

If you are in doubt as to how much material you will want, you can order from your dealer one skein of some shades, and two of others, even if the instructions called for three or four skeins of a shade, and then order again when you find you will require more. However, it is always safer to buy at one time all the silk necessary for one piece, and we cannot too strongly recommend this plan.

Embroidery is very fascinating work, but to attain perfection one must study the subject. We have been fortunate in securing so well known an authority on Art Needlework as Mrs. L. Barton Wilson to furnish a chapter on Embroidery Stitches. This article, which even the experienced worker will be glad to read, is especially valuable to beginners, who will find no difficulty in making the different stitches by following the directions and examining the illustrations.

Beginners should read "Hints upon the Selection of Material," and "The Size of Needle to Use," as well as "To Wash Embroidered Linens." In shading flowers in which many colors are required, have a separate needle threaded with each shade; in fact, this is a good plan even if you are using only a few shades.

Choose a simple design to begin with, such as a Violet, a Buttercup, or a Daisy, and get a small size stamped linen, not over nine inches square. At the end of the instructions for each design we have printed the words (Easy), (Not Difficult), (Somewhat Difficult), or (Difficult), which show the degree of skill necessary to embroider each piece successfully.

No printed instructions can help a beginner as much as a lesson, or better still a course of lessons, under a good teacher. However, we have tried to make the instructions explicit, and we think further details will be unnecessary; still, should you find trouble in working any of the designs, or want to know where materials can be obtained, we will gladly answer questions and give you any desired information. A stamp should be enclosed for reply.

Embroidery Stitches.—Described and Illustrated.[2]

The stitches used in modern embroidery are not productions of this age. They belong to the art of to-day through adaptation. They have a value because of their antiquity far above any value which new inventions in this line could possess. Their application has been tried without limit and the extent of expression and delineation through them is well known. The science of embroidery is established; its methods are perfected. The art is rich in its heritage.

With the revival of needlework has naturally come a demand for silks of such quality and durability as that possessed by the wonderful threads of centuries ago, which are found in a perfect state of preservation in many examples of old embroidery, and which seem even to grow more mellow and beautiful in color with age. What modern science has done to meet this demand is shown by the brilliancy and beauty of shading, and fastness of color, which such silks as the "Corticelli" are known to possess. This ought to be among the chief inspirations to best efforts in this line of decorative art.

The form of embroidery which is most truly artistic, and at the same time scientific, is that known as "Opus Plumarium"[3] or "Feather Stitch." (The so-called "seamstress feather stitch" should not be confounded with this.) The exceedingly beautiful 16th century examples of the embroidery still in existence prove what is its durability and how adequate the method. The "long and short" stitch, which is the constituent of the work, is widely used on linens. When this stitch is correctly laid the effect is very beautiful, and, like all primary things, its beauty lies in its simplicity and perfect adaptability. It is proposed to describe and illustrate the long and short stitch first, in order that in the light of a clear understanding of this first principle, the opus plumarium (which is considered the most difficult embroidery, but which is really an advanced use of this simple element) may become less formidable to amateurs.

Feather stitch should never be attempted on an unframed fabric. A certain degree of excellence may be attained in embroidery by working such fabrics as linen in the hand, but perfect stitch direction and proper tension cannot be secured unless the fabric is stretched.

Embroidery stitches hold a certain definite relation to each other and may therefore be classified into groups. A glance at the classification will give one[Pg 10] a clear idea of the fundamental principles of the Art. A little study of it will furnish the key to the forms and styles of the embroideries of the different centuries and countries and so enable one fully to appreciate collections of antiques which are invaluable to the learner.

I. Long and Short Stitches.		a. Simple Long and Short Stitch.
		b. Feather Stitch.
		c. Overlap Stitch.
		d. Tapestry Stitch.
II. Satin Stitches.		a. Simple Satin Stitch.
		b. French Laid Work.
III. Couching Stitches.		a. Simple Couching Stitch.
		b. Twisted Stitch.
		c. Brick Couching Stitch.
		d. Diaper Couching (Over Satin Stitch).
		e. Other Elaborate Couching Stitches.
IV. Outline Stitches.		a. Kensington Outline Stitch.
		b. Bulgarian Stitch.
		c. Split Stitch.
		d. Stem Stitch.
		e. Twisted Outline Stitch.
V. Wound Stitches.		a. Simple French Knot.
		b. French Knot, combined with Stem.
		c. Bullion Stitch.
VI. Buttonhole Stitches.		a. Simple Buttonhole Stitch.
		b. Blanket Stitch.
		c. Honeycomb Stitch.
		d. Double Buttonhole Stitch.
		e. Ladder Stitch.
		f. Cat, Brier, or Seamstress Feather Stitch.
VII. Chain Stitches.		a. Common Chain Stitch.
		b. Rope Stitch.
		c. Single Reverse Chain Stitch.
		d. Double Reverse Chain Stitch.
		e. Double Chain Stitch.
		f. Cable Stitch.
		g. Beading Stitch.
		h. Bird's Eye Stitch.
VIII. Darning Stitches.		a. Simple Darning Stitch.
		b. Brick Darning Stitch.
		c. Seed Stitch.
		d. Queen Anne Stitch.
IX. Fancy Stitches.		a. Herringbone Stitch.
		b. Ismit Stitch.
		c. Janina Stitch.
		d. Border Stitch.

The above table will be found of great value to beginners, enabling them easily to master the scientific or theoretical as well as the practical part of this article.

"Long and short" stitch as commonly used on linens is a border work. That is, the forms of the design are not filled in entirely; the stitches are carried round the outline and such space as they do not cover within the form is allowed to remain in a low relief. This is known as "half work," sometimes as "half solid Kensington," while the solid "opus plumarium" is often called "Kensington." While it is true that the Kensington school revived this ancient embroidery it is doubtful if this is sufficient reason why it should give[Pg 11] to it the name. The history of art will be better preserved if we adhere to the old terms. The effect of the contrasted surfaces, through the half work, of the ground material and the embroidery, is very pleasing, and such a method is more suitable on linen than solid embroidery. It is less conventional and therefore is in harmony with the fabric. On the other hand solid embroidery is rich in itself and should be used to decorate rich fabrics. This is not an invariable rule but its restrictions are reasonable. Such exceptions as these may be noted,—tiny forms such as the fronds of maiden hair fern may be made solid to advantage, and the Bulgarian embroidery, fully described elsewhere in this book, is heavy and complete. Conversely, good effects are sometimes obtained with heavy silks in half work on rich fabrics. The artistic principle involved in the "half work" is suggestiveness. If the design is good to start with, a great deal of spirit may be put into it by the simple border embroidery.

A. Simple Long and Short Stitch.—This stitch may be done in the hand, but as already intimated it can be perfectly done only in a frame or hoop, which should be rested on the table edge and held by a weight. The material should be stretched straight with the woof and warp. The stitches are then laid by using both hands, one below and the other above the frame, to send the needle up and down perpendicularly. To make the stitch, bring the needle up on the outline of the design and send it down within the form. When the fabric is held in the hand the needle takes the stitch over and down on the outline and up within the form. Let the first stitch be a long one, one-quarter of an inch to an inch in length in proportion to the size of the form. The next stitch should be but two-thirds as long and should lie parallel with the first or closer to it within the form, if it is a narrowing one, than on the outline; or vice versa, if it is a form increasing in width. The contour of the design must decide the stitch direction. The third stitch should be long, followed by a short one, and so on alternating long and short. We are sometimes told that these stitches should be "irregular." This is both true and it is not. The long stitches should certainly not be all of one length and the short all of another. In this they should vary, but they should be absolutely regular in that they should be even on the surface without piling or yet having spaces between them, and they should form a perfect unbroken surface and the edge[Pg 12] should exactly coincide with the outline. This, then, is the "long and short" stitch, and it may be considered complete in itself as far as it goes. It is the first stage of solid embroidery or "opus plumarium." See Fig. I a.

B. Feather Stitch.—The next step is to lay another row of stitches over these, differing from them in that they shall be long and short on both edges. The long stitch should commence just below the outline and should end further within the form than any of the first row. It should be taken in exactly the same direction as the first row and over them. The next stitch should be started below the first, something less than a third of its length, just beside it, and should reach the same distance below the end of the first. The third should be similar to the first, and so on. It is obvious that every other stitch of this second row is the long one at its start and the short one at its finish. The second row is the same as the first, except that it is long and short on both edges. This is not "irregularity," but absolute regularity. The more regular and the more accurate the alternating is, the smoother the surface will be. This second row should lap well over the first. It should indeed cover two-thirds of it if the colors are to blend instead of appear as rows. This is the secret, or rather, the real principle of shading. It will not do to economize material and expect a rich result. This is likely to be the fault of American embroidery. The preceding rows of stitches must be solid under the succeeding ones. There may be as many rows as are necessary to cover the form, and these should all lap deep over each other so that the under rows show only because of the difference in length of the stitches of the upper edge of the over rows. In this way one shade passes into the next as tones in painting, perfectly clear in themselves yet, because they are distinct, making a luminous and unbroken whole. If the stitches are not placed according to such a method the effect will be—again as in painting when the colors are muddled—broken and harsh and expressionless. By this means shades that differ greatly can be blended and the whole is brought into relief by the raising of one row over the other. The lower ends of the stitches of the last row may adapt themselves in terminating to the form. See Fig. I b.

C. Overlap Stitch.—This is the "long and short" on a curved line, not[Pg 13] form. The first stitch is taken from the end of the line along its length, the next stitch is taken just below the start of the first on the line, over to the other side of the first and to a point just above the finish of the first, thus lapping. Continue these stitches long and short. This is the way to work round the circumference of a circle. Curved tendrils are very effective embroidered in the overlap stitch. See Fig. I c.

D. Tapestry Stitch.—A stitch similar to feather stitch except that its lines are all in one direction. The stitches do not slant to accommodate themselves to a form but are all straight and in all cases parallel and terminate abruptly as they come against the outline of the form whether they are within it or are used to fill the background. This is essentially a filling stitch and is the most beautiful way to embroider backgrounds. In composition with opus plumarium it is wonderfully rich. There are many superb examples of this work in the old opus anglicanam, where it was largely used to represent drapery, and, in its most perfect application, faces. In a word it is parallel "opus plumarium." Its rows should be well lapped. See Fig. I d. The light shade in the engraving is intended simply to show the system of stitches; there are three rows, each worked in the same color, completely covering the linen and presenting an absolutely smooth surface.

A. Simple Satin Stitch.—The next stitch in importance is the "Satin Stitch," and it has various applications. This stitch forms an unbroken surface not only in effect but in reality. The stitches are taken parallel and from side to side of the outline or over the space they are to cover. On coarse material and with one of the heavier silks, such as Corticelli Roman Floss or Rope[Pg 14] Silk, it is possible to make them quite long, but when fine material is used they must be short to lie well. Embroidery in this stitch is more or less mechanical and does not allow of shading. It is used principally in narrow bars, which are often first raised by stitches laid at right angles to the direction the satin stitch is to take. We show two very good examples of satin stitch.

B. French Laid Work. The French white or laid embroidery is an especial application of the satin stitch. It is the method of initialing and is done in the Corticelli EE Twisted Embroidery Silk and Corticelli Etching Silk with best effect. It is also the form of work for covering cartoons in church embroidery. The stitches may be taken from side to side at any angle so that they are kept parallel to each other.

A. Simple Couching Stitch.—As methods of work, appliqué and couching are of great importance and possibility and through them a large variety of stitches are employed. Designs cut out of fabrics are applied to ground fabrics by couching. The simple stitch taken at right angles over cords is the one most commonly used, as shown in Fig. III a. This and other couching may be used independently or on the edges of applied forms.

B. Twisted Stitch.—In this stitch one cord is twisted around another and the over stitch is taken through the ground at right angles to the direction of the outline. See Fig. III b. Two silk cords may be carried over outlines, one each side of a gold thread.

C. Brick Couching Stitch. Lay rows of cords close to each other and couch them down with perpendicular stitches, alternating in each row with the spaces between them. This is very effective work. See Fig. III c.

D. Diaper Couching Stitch. This work is done over satin stitch. Many examples of it are to be found in the rich antique diapered work. This[Pg 15] embroidery has many uses in modern work. (See article on Bulgarian Embroidery.) Circular forms within conventional flowers may be covered with satin stitches as long as the forms require, then cross-barred with stitches placed at a decided angle from the satin work. This set of cross-bar stitches should be recrossed with another at the opposite angle, thus forming little squares over the first work, which should be couched down at their intersections. This diapering over satin embroidery may be done in a variety of designs and color combinations. Original ways will suggest themselves to the worker. See Fig. III d.

E. Elaborate Couching Stitches.—There are a large number of elaborate couching stitches usually executed in gold and purse twist.

The old work is rich in examples of couching over a system of foundation cords which raise the covering layer of cords or silk threads. The "Basket" and the "Frill Basket" are the most beautiful of these stitches. Corticelli Filo Silk should generally be used for the over stitch and the heavier silks, such as Corticelli Roman Floss and Rope Silk, should be the threads laid on the surface. When it is desired to have the over stitches invisible yet strong the Filo Silk may be split and waxed.

A. Kensington Outline Stitch.—Outline stitches, especially the one known as "Kensington outline," form a very prominent part in the work on linens. When the lines of designs are close very satisfactory results are obtained by outlining alone. This embroidery is very serviceable, and a housekeeper needs an ample supply of the simple linens to insure freshness in the dining room and about the toilet tables. Linens outlined in all white are very dainty, and all blue or delft green monochromes are pretty for summer. The outline is a hand embroidery stitch, so that the work is very convenient. The point of care-taking lies in the fact that the outline must be accurately followed. The stitch itself is a reverse backstitch. The work should proceed from left to right. The needle should be brought up in the outline, drawn out the full length of the thread, then sent down in advance and carried out on the outline again a short distance in front of the point at which it was put in. Again the needle should be sent through in advance on the line, thus forming an unbroken, partly double line on the face and a series of short backstitches on the wrong side of the fabric. The thread must be kept always on one side of the needle. It is more convenient to some workers to throw it back. See Fig. IV a.

B. Bulgarian Stitch.—Two or more lines of outline stitch laid parallel and close together is known as "Bulgarian Stitch." See Fig. IV b.

C. Split Stitch.—An outline backstitch with the needle brought up through the previous stitch instead of beside it. See Fig. IV c.

D. Stem Stitch.—This is also but a modification of the outline. The backstitches are taken so as to slant slightly in towards the interior of the form, thus giving a little width to the outline. It is necessary to take the stitches a little closer than the cut would indicate in order to avoid spaces between them. This is a very satisfactory way of working stems when it is desired that they should have more width than the simple outline would give. See Fig. IV d.

E. Twisted Outline Stitch.—This stitch should be worked in a frame or hoop, and it will be found a most effective way of working ribbed stems. A double thread of Filo is best adapted to the work. The thread should be brought up on the outline its full length above the framed fabric and the needle turned in the fingers until the thread is well twisted, then holding the twisted thread over the fore-finger of the left hand send the needle down a quarter of an inch in advance on the line; bring it up again close beside the stitch thus laid, about a third back on its length, then send it down again in advance. The width of the stem should be covered with parallel lines of these stitches. One line is not satisfactory, but two or more lie well together. The stitches must be taken uniformly all on one side of the lines. They may be much longer than those of the simple outline. See Fig. IV e.

A. Simple French Knot.—A very useful little stitch, especially for flower centers, where it may be used to cover small spaces or may represent the anthers. The thread is brought out its full length and twisted round the needle near the point where it leaves the fabric, the needle point is then inserted perpendicular to the ground, the twist drawn against it and the needle pushed through to the eye. Before drawing it through, the middle[Pg 17] finger of the right hand should be placed on the twist to insure the knot's lying firm on the surface. Turn the thread around the needle but once for a fine knot or several times for a coarse one. The simple French Knot is shown in Fig. V b. by the single knot at the left of the illustration.

B. French Knot, Combined with Stem.—The French Knot with tiny stern is made as one stitch. Instead of placing the knot at the point where the thread leaves the ground material, it is placed at a desired distance with the thread laid in a simple stitch on the ground surface. This is a very satisfactory way to work flower centers. The stamen, both filament and anther, is thus one stitch. See Fig. V b.

C. Bullion Stitch.—Made by twisting the thread on the needle. When a coil is so formed the needle and thread are drawn through it; it is then placed on the surface and the needle sent down through the ground material to fasten it. This is a Turkish stitch and in that embroidery is usually done in gold passing. See Fig. V c.

A. Simple Buttonhole Stitch.—The Buttonhole Stitch is capable of more elaborate work on its own account than is generally supposed. Aside from the buttonhole scallop shown by Fig. VI a. which is now so popular as a finish on linens and for which the Corticelli Persian Floss and Corticelli EE Twisted Embroidery Silk are so suitable, it has many possibilities in large work. It is also a hand stitch and surfaces can be covered rapidly by its use, two points most acceptable to amateurs. Short stitches laid close carry better color effects than long ones far apart, although the color of the background, which shows through the long stitches, has a large influence upon the effect. Deep stitches in the buttonhole work must have a certain proportionate space between them, for stitches more than a quarter of an inch deep do not lie well close together. The line on which the loop is to fall should be held toward one. The needle should be put in on the opposite line of the width of the space to be covered and brought out directly below on the lower line. The thread should lie in front of the needle and under it, so that as it is drawn through and the stitch laid the knot will lie formed. The work is done from left to right and the stitches should be kept perpendicular. See Fig. VI a.

B. Blanket Stitch.—A wide-apart loose buttonhole stitch used principally on flannels. Corticelli Etching Silk or Corticelli EE Twisted Embroidery Silk is best suited for this work. See Fig. VI b.

C. Honeycomb Stitch.—An adaptation of buttonhole stitch, and is very nice for large work such as portieres. The first row of stitches is laid like the blanket buttonhole, quite loose. The next is fastened to the fabric only at the beginning and end of the row; between these points the loop stitches are caught into the loops of the first row, and so on with the succeeding rows, fastening through only where the rows terminate against the outline. It is necessary to keep the stitches very loose, as each row has a tendency to narrow. When the form is covered draw the last row in place and fasten it by a row of buttonhole stitches taken through the fabric like the first. It is possible to work back and forth. It is well to reverse the needle and send it through the loops eye end first, to avoid splitting the silk. The same form of stitch may also be taken through the material. See Fig. VI c.

D. Double Buttonhole Stitch.—A very pretty way of treating narrow bars from one-half to three-quarters of an inch wide is to use the double buttonhole stitch. Bring the needle up in the center of the width of the bar the full length of the thread and take the regular buttonhole stitch from this point over the upper line to a point a little above the start; draw this stitch through. The point of the needle in this case was directed down. Now put in the needle on the lower line of the bar and send it up to a point a little below the start and a trifle to the right; keeping the thread to the right. Draw the stitch through and proceed to make another from above like the first, always keeping the thread to the right to form the loop. The effect of this is that of a satin stitch on the top and bottom of the bar with a braided line through the center. It is very effective and pretty. The braid may be made wider by making the stitches shorter. See Fig. VI d.

E. Ladder Stitch.—Many of the lace stitches are buttonhole. The "Ladder" for instance is two rows of buttonhole stitch a short distance apart[Pg 19] and parallel, connected by regular overcast stitches. The ground material is cut away between the rounds or overcast lines. The honiton lace is applied by buttonhole stitch, using Corticelli Lace Embroidery Silk. Fig. VI e. shows the so-called ladder.

F. Cat, Brier, Coral, or Seamstress Feather Stitch.—An alternate buttonhole loop first to the right and then to the left. The loops may be alternated singly or in pairs, or in threes or fours. It is almost too well known to need explanation. See Fig. VI f. (Also see Sofa Pillow Design No. 508.)

A. Common Chain Stitch.—The common chain stitch may be said to be the buttonhole stitch carried down a line by its length instead of from left to right proceeding by its width. The consecutive stitches are started from within the lower end of each preceding loop; a line of link-like loop stitches will thus be formed. See Fig. VII a.

B. Rope Stitch.—This is a modification of the common chain stitch. It is commenced the same as the chain but the successive stitches are taken by sending the needle down back of the last-loop instead of through it. The loop is formed as in the chain. This makes a very pretty ridged line when done in heavy silks such as Corticelli Roman Floss or Rope Silk. See Fig. VII b.

C. Single Reverse Chain Stitch.—To outline with the Reverse Chain Stitch it is necessary first to lay a simple stitch on the surface; bring the needle up below the end of this, at a distance of the length of a stitch from it; now pass the needle, eye first, behind the first stitch, not through the fabric; then draw through the length of the thread, insert the point of the needle close beside the point where it came up, and bring it out below again, the distance of the length of the preceding stitch; again pass the needle back of the chain loop, just laid, as it was in the first place passed back of the simple stitch; continue these laid loops along the line to be covered. See Fig. VII c.

D. Double Reverse Chain Stitch.—To form the double reverse chain proceed in the same way to the point of the first "single reverse chain stitch," but instead of sending the needle down the distance[Pg 20] of a stitch below, insert it the same but bring it out just to the right or at about the point where the thread leaves the fabric. Draw this tiny stitch through and pass the needle again back of the simple stitch, thus forming a double loop. Send it down again on the point to the left of the start and out the length of a stitch below on the outline. The next stitches are taken in the same way, passing the needle back of the loops as in the first case back of the simple stitch. See Fig. VII d.

E. Double Chain Stitch.—Formed by laying two rows of simple chain parallel to each other and catching them together by a regular over stitch passed through the inner edges of each of the two rows alternately. See Fig. VII e.

F. Cable Stitch.—Similar to the rope stitch. The difference lies in sending the needle down a little below the point where the thread leaves the ground material at the base of the loop instead of back or within the loop. This forms a chain of open links. See Fig. VII f.

G. Beading Stitch.—A chain stitch taken horizontally over the thread as it is carried along an outline, thus forming a knot at regular spaces on a seemingly placed line of the silk. See Fig. VII g.

H. Bird's Eye Stitch.—Formed like the chain loops but grouped about a center. Small radiating devices can be very successfully embroidered in this way; the effect of small petals as in daisies is very good. The loop is fastened by a tiny stitch at its base and the needle again brought out at the center. See Fig. VII h.

The "Tambour Stitch" is the chain executed with a small hook, which is pushed up and down through the fabric. It is a Turkish embroidery and very like machine work. There are various other modifications of these chain stitches.

Darning is a very satisfactory sort of embroidery. In this work the greater part of the silk is laid on the right side of the material so that it carries large[Pg 21] masses of color. Darning is generally considered a filling embroidery and is often used in background work. Backgrounds darned around a design may be made very artistic.

A. Simple Darning Stitch.—The simple darning stitch is a short stitch on the back and a long one on the face "running" on a straight line, the second row alternating with the first in the positions of the long and short stitches, and lying parallel to it. Care and practice are necessary to make these rows of equal tension. They should keep their straight direction and terminate where they meet the outline. There are ways of accommodating them to the outline when they are used within the design. See Fig. VIII a.

B. Brick Darning Stitch.—If it is desirable to increase the color effect the first series of rows may be crossed at right angles by a similar series. This is known as the "Brick Darning Stitch." The straight bars should be laid by darning one way and back, alternately. By a little planning very pretty coloring may be gained through relating the background shade to the imposed work. See Fig. VIII b.

C. Seed Stitch.—This may be considered a darning stitch, having however the short stitches on the surface and the long ones on the back. This is largely used in combination with satin stitch for lettering. (See Designs Nos. 612 A, B, D, E, and F.)

D. Queen Anne Stitch.—Another form of darning is the "Queen Anne Stitch." In this the silk is not sewed through the fabric but first laid in long parallel lines from side to side of the outline, then crossed at right angles by weaving in threads alternately. This is rather mechanical and not so artistic as the first method, though we may see very curious examples of it in the old English embroideries. See Fig. VIII d.

There are many other so-called "fancy stitches." Among them the pretty "Herringbone" and its modifications are worthy of note.

A. Herringbone Stitch.—A short[Pg 22] stitch taken from right to left, and as it proceeds the thread is drawn to the right and the work is carried in this direction. It is essentially a cross stitch. See Fig. IX a.

B. Ismit Stitch.—A slight difference in the plan of taking a stitch changes the entire effect. This is obvious in the "Ismit Stitch." It is taken exactly as the herringbone and the radical difference in the result is due simply to making the lines meet at a point. See Fig. IX b. When the lines are very long they may be fastened by couching stitches at the intersections.

C. Janina Stitch.—A very satisfactory way of filling in the petals of conventional flowers or flower forms. It may be used with really beautiful effect on the canvas materials with Corticelli Roman Floss or Rope Silk. It is also a good method for filling bars on borders. While it is not heavy unless worked close, it carries a decided color effect. It is one of the prettiest of the conventional stitches. See Fig. IX c.

D. Border Stitch.—This stitch is not unlike herringbone. It is however carried perpendicularly, while herringbone proceeds horizontally. The side or fastening stitches of the border work are very short. See Fig. IX d.

The Inland Printer, a journal devoted to the printing and publishing trades, and a magazine generally considered authority on questions of orthography gives the proper spelling as "doily." The following explains itself.

Question.—Kindly give us the correct spelling of the word variously printed as "doily" and "doiley," and also the plural of the same. There has been considerable discussion in regard to the proper way to spell this word, and we will leave you to render the final verdict.

Answer.—Our final verdict in this case is simply that of all the dictionaries. Every one of them enters the word as "doily," and they are right in doing so, because, though the name from which it is derived was variously spelled as "Doily" and "Doyley," and maybe otherwise also, it is well to select one spelling—presumably the prevalent one—for the common name. At any rate, this is what the lexicographers have done, and no good reason to dissent from their choice is apparent. The plural of the form chosen is "doilies."

Centerpieces and Doilies.

The Bulgarian embroidery as we know it on the brown linen squares is valuable chiefly for its durability and pleasing coloring. These squares embroidered in the bright cottons make beautiful cushions and their use with Turkish rugs and hangings is very appropriate. The stitching is effective rather than accurate. The figures of the characteristic designs are crude, but they are full of suggestions and it is possible in carrying out these to obtain most graceful and dainty drawings. When they are adapted to fine white linens and embroidered in silks the result is at once orientally rich and sufficiently dainty for table use.

Heavy colorings are more and more to be urged for centerpieces and doilies which are to be placed under gas light. The color combinations for this set may seem at first startling, but when the shades are properly distributed the result is rich and harmonious.

Border.—Buttonhole the scalloped edge in blue and gold brown Corticelli Etching Silk, using shades 626 and 645 alternately for each scallop. One connecting scallop should be blue and the next one yellow. The inner edge[Pg 24] of scallops should be outlined in Black Etching Silk, 612, also the straight lines enclosing the scroll and the bars of the doilies. The same Blue, 626, in Corticelli Filo Silk with Brown, 526, may be used for the scroll. Keep the blue on one edge and the brown on the other. Embroider in the "overlap" long and short stitch. Work the little trefoils within the scallop in satin stitch with Pink, 128, 130, and cross-bar them alternately with the scallop colors. See Colored Plate VII.

Flower and Leaf Forms.—These should carry the colors of the edge with a few in addition. Use in the leaf forms, in combination with Brown, 526, 527, and 528, the Greens 123, 125, and 126. In the flower forms use beside the blue and yellow, Pink, 128 and 130, and Red, 542 and 544. The leaf forms should be embroidered in long and short stitch. The flower forms may be made altogether or nearly solid or filled with feather stitch or satin stitch diapered. The satin stitch may be done in Filo Silk cross-barred with the Etching Silk. Distribute the colors in masses, that is, confine certain colors to certain forms, combine the colors rather than mix them. The effect of cross-bar diapering in the flower forms of these figures is very pretty and the work is firm as well.

Corticelli Filo Silk alone should be used in the figures of the doilies even for the cross-barring, though the scallops and black lines should be of the Etching Silk. It is possible to introduce the red into the doily scallops in the little connecting points and to so combine the colors as to make all the edges different. Four of each of the doily designs form the dozen, and these may be still further varied by a little planning as to color schemes. The centerpiece and doilies may be embroidered with good effect in simple outline or rows of outline, known as the "Bulgarian stitch." If desired the entire work on the centerpiece may be done with Corticelli Etching Silk, and the effect will be really very beautiful, and novel as well, but the figures of the doilies are too small for such treatment. (Not Difficult.)

Japanese Design No. 51.

It has been aptly said of Japanese designers that they know how to occupy a space without filling it, thus producing very beautiful effects with little labor. This remark applies well to this design, since it can be quickly worked, and it will prove very charming and effective for either a centerpiece or doily.

Border.—Work in indented (long and short on the inside) buttonhole stitch in two shades of pale soft green. For the outside edge use Corticelli Persian Floss, 780; into this blend Filo Silk, 779.5, still keeping the indented effect in the shading.

Almond Blossoms.—Work solid, beginning the edges of petals with Corticelli Filo Silk, 656, shading lighter to the center, using 655.9, 655.8, 655.7. In the center of the flower make French knots in Golden Brown, 115.

Stems.—Work solid in shades of Golden Brown, 525.7, 525.8, 525.9. The shading should be darker near the flowers and at the bottom of the stem than elsewhere. Use the lighter shades for working the small stems branching out from the main stalk.

Calyx and Small Buds.—Use Green, 780, for the upper part and Brown, 525.7, near the stems.

The work should be pressed before the edge is cut. If desired a double strand of Corticelli Filo Silk may be used for working the blossoms and stems. Great care must be taken, however, not to allow the strands to twist around each other. They should lie side by side, giving their full value. Even when[Pg 26] working with a single strand great attention should be paid to keeping it from twisting. Keep it in its normal condition by occasionally untwisting; otherwise it will become like a wisp and all the beautiful gloss of this lovely silk will soon be lost. (Easy.)

Border.—Work the scallop in buttonhole stitch with Persian Floss, 615. Work the cross-bar in the four corners in border in outline stitch with one thread of Filo in Brown, 644.8. Where the lines meet make a cross stitch in Brown, 645. In the center space between the bars make an X in Brown, 778. See Colored Plate IX for method of working border and cross-bar.

Flowers.—Work solid in Purple, 649.9, 650, 651, 652, 653, 654, 729.5. Begin edge of upper petals with 649.9, shading gradually darker to the center with 650, 651, 652. Work the edge of the three lower petals with 651, and shade gradually darker to center, using 652, 653, 654, 729.5. Put a few stitches of Yellow, 507, in the center.

Leaves.—Work solid in Green, 781, for points. Shade darker toward the center, using 782, 783, and for veins, 754. Some leaves should be worked with 781 on edge, 754 for center, and work veins with 784.

Scroll Lines and Cross-bar.—Outline the cross-bar lines with 645 and the scroll with 646.

A study of Pansy Design 605 B, Colored Plate I (Frontispiece), will give some hints as to how the pansies should be shaded, although the coloring is different. (Somewhat Difficult.)

Border.—Work the scallop in buttonhole stitch with Persian Floss, 615. Work the cross-bar in the four corners in the border in outline stitch with one thread of Filo, Brown, 644.8. Where the lines meet make a cross stitch in Brown, 645. In the center space between the bars make an X with Brown, 778. See Colored Plate IX for method of working border and cross-bar.

Flowers.—Work solid in the shades of violet, making some flowers lighter than others. Work some of the petals darker on the edge and lighter toward the center, and reverse, some lighter on the edge and darker toward the center. Make a few solid stitches of yellow in the center of the open flowers. Work the buds solid in 728, 729, and the calyx solid with Green, 782.

Leaves.—Work the edge and points with 781 and shade darker to the center with 782. Use 783 for veins and stem. (Easy.)

Wild Rose Design No. 603 E.

Border.—Work the scallop in buttonhole stitch with Persian Floss, 615. Work the cross-bar in the four corners in border in outline stitch with one thread of Filo in Brown, 644.8. Where the lines meet make a cross stitch in[Pg 28] Brown, 645. In the center space between the bars make an X in Brown, 778. See Colored Plate IX.

Flowers.—Work solid. Begin the edge of petals of open flowers with Pink, 639. Shade lighter to the center, using 636, 637, 638, 655.7. Make some lighter and some darker. Put three stitches of Green, 780, in the center, and surrounding center but ¹⁄₄ inch away make a few French knots in Yellow, 504. Work the back petals in the half flowers with Pink, 639, 640, and the front petals or those in the foreground with 637, 638, 639.

Buds and Calyx.—Work the buds with Pink, 639, 640, and the calyx points with Green, 780, 781. For the bulb and stem use 782.

Leaves.—Work solid. For the edge and points use 781, shading toward the center with 782, 783. The veins and stem work with 783, 755.

The Wild Rose is always a popular subject for embroidery, and even a beginner should have no difficulty in working the design as the Colored Plate IX gives the exact shading and stitch direction, (Easy.)

Border.—Work the scallop in buttonhole stitch with Corticelli Persian Floss, White, 615. Work the cross-bar in the four corners in the border in outline stitch with one thread of Corticelli Filo Silk, Brown, 644.8. Where the lines meet make a cross stitch in Brown, 645. In the center space between the bars make an X with Brown, 778. See Colored Plate IX for method of working border and cross-bar.

Flowers.—Work solid in shades of purple and pink Corticelli Filo Silk. Begin some flowers with Pink, 680, shading gradually lighter toward the center with 679 and 678. In others combine purple and pink. Begin with 674 and shade gradually to light pink; then darker toward the center, or reverse,[Pg 29] using different shades in each flower. Reference to the Colored Plate of Sweet Pea Design 407G will be found quite a help in getting the proper shading, although the colors used are not identical with those suggested for this design.

Leaves.—Work the points with Green, 781, shading darker toward the center with 782, 783. Work the veins and stems in 783. For the tendrils use 780. (Difficult.)

Pansy Design No. 605 B.

Pansies always have a peculiar charm of their own, and as subjects for embroidery afford opportunity for very skillful, as well as artistic, treatment. The range of color is so varied and the possibility of pleasing combinations is so great that the following instructions are given simply as a suggestion. However, the directions will be found ample for the less experienced needleworker who does not care for a color scheme of her own.

Border.—Work the scallop in buttonhole stitch with Corticelli EE Embroidery Silk, White, 615; or Persian Floss, 615, can be used.

Flowers.—Work solid in combination of Purple, 725, 726, 727, 728, 729, 729.5, and Yellow, 740, 741, 742, 743, 743.5, 743.7. It would be effective to work some flowers all in purple, others in yellow with purple rays. Commence with the two upper back petals of the open flower nearest to the border. Work the edge of the petal with Yellow, 743; shade into that 743.5, 743.7, and use 645 near the center for shadow. Begin the edge of the three lower petals with 743, shading lighter to the center with 742, 741, 740. See Colored Plate I (Frontispiece). To lend variety the three lower petals in some yellow flowers can be made lighter on the edge and darker toward the center.

From the center of the flower, extending into the three lower petals make rays of Purple, 729. Work a few solid stitches of Scarlet, 766, in the center of the flower. Now begin with the two upper back petals of the purple flowers using 728 for edge of the petal, shading gradually darker to the center with 728, 729, and make a few stitches of 729.5 in rays, and as shadows. Begin the edge of the lower petals with 725 and gradually shade darker to the center, making rays in the three lower petals with 729.5. Work a few solid stitches of Scarlet, 766, in the center of the flowers. See Colored Plate I (Frontispiece) for shading and proper direction of the stitches.

Buds and Calyx.—Work the buds solid, using 727, 728, 729. Work the edge with 727 and shade gradually darker to the stem, using a little of 729.5 near the stem. Work the points of the calyx in Green, 781, shading toward the stem with 782 and 754.

Leaves.—Work the points of the leaves solid, in 780, shading gradually darker toward the midvein and base of the leaf, using 781, 782. (Difficult.)

This garland design when embroidered will be a surprise to any one who has never tried a similar pattern. The coloring has a very rich, subdued tone which is quite different from that found in any other style of design.

Border.—Work the scallop in buttonhole stitch with Corticelli Persian Floss, 616.5.

Wild Roses.—Work solid, using all the shades of Pink Corticelli Filo Silk, 637, 638, 639, 640, working the edge of the petals dark, shading gradually lighter toward the center of the flowers. Use three shades in each flower. Vary the flowers, making some darker than others. In the center work four or five stamens with one thread of Filo, 780, and at the end of each stamen make a French knot with Yellow, 504. (See Photo Frame No. 60.)

Forget-me-nots.—Work in satin stitch with Blue, 623, 624, 625, 626. Don't try to shade each petal, but get light and shade effect by making some petals in 623, some in 624, etc. Use 626 for an occasional petal only, as the color is rather strong. Work in the centers one French knot with 742.

Leaves.—Work solid with Green, 805, 806, 807, 808. Make the larger leaves in the darker shades; the points of the leaves in 805. Veins and stems work with 808.

Ribbons.—Work in satin stitch, slanting across the ribbon, using Yellow, 741, 742. To give the effect of the twisted ribbon, work one turn of the ribbon with 741, the next fold with 742, and so on. If you prefer, Green, 125, 126, 127, can be used for the ribbon, carrying out the same idea as directed above. (Somewhat Difficult.)

Easter Lily Design No. 605 D.

Flowers.—Work solid, beginning the edge of the petals with Corticelli Filo Silk, White, 615, shading into it Green, 692.8, 661, 662, using 663 for the center. Work six or seven stamens in 781, putting three[Pg 32] small stitches of Yellow, 506, at the end of each to form the top or head. Work the point of the buds with Green, 692.8, shading darker with 661, 662, 663, to the stem. See Colored Plate X.

Leaves.—Work solid, with Green, 781, for points, and shading gradually darker with 782, 783, and 784 to the stem. The leaf is worked straight from the point without veins. Use Green, 782, for the stems. When well done the shading in this design is very delicate. (Not Difficult.)

Orchid Design No. 605 F.

Border.—Work the scallop in buttonhole stitch with Corticelli Persian Floss, White, 615.

Flowers.—Make a few stitches at the middle of the point of each petal with Corticelli Filo Silk, Purple, 676, shading toward the bottom of the petal with 652, 651, 650, 726, 725. Begin back edge, or lip, of cup with 651, shading darker toward the center with 652, 676. Do the front lip in similar manner, but use 650 for the edge and 651 to shade toward the center. Under the lip make the shadow with 676. From the center of the cup make a pistil in Green, 781. Careful study of Colored Plate XI will show the proper shading and correct direction of the stitches.

Leaves.—Work solid, using 780 for the point and shading gradually darker with 781, 782, 783, 784. Work the stems near the flower, with 783, shading darker with 784 toward the base of stem. (Somewhat Difficult.)

Turning over one of the corners adds to the novelty of this design and the 9 inch size makes an especially dainty doily. The 22 inch size is for a centerpiece.

Border.—Work the scallop in buttonhole stitch with Corticelli Persian Floss, 615. One corner is turned under on the wrong side and buttonholed on the right side through both thicknesses of linen. Work the straight line, or slit, in the turned over corner in fine buttonhole stitch with Corticelli Persian Floss, 615. The stems, which apparently come through the slit, should be worked in outline stitch with Filo Silk, Green, 755. Colored Plate V.

Flowers.—Make the edge with Corticelli Filo Silk, Yellow, 507, shading lighter to the center with 506, 505, 504, 502. Some flowers should be darker than others. In the center of the flower work a few stitches of Green, 781, and around these stitches make a few French knots in 781 also. For the back petals of the buds use 507, shading lighter to the stem with 506, 505. Use Green, 582, for the points of calyx, and shade 573 into the stem, using this shade also for a part of each stem.

Leaves.—Make the points in Green, 781, shading gradually to midvein with 582, 753, 754. Omit 781 in some of the leaves, thus making them darker, and adding 755 at the bottom of the leaf. Use 755 for the stems. (Easy.)

These turned corner patterns are very simple, taking but a small quantity of silk and little time to work them.

Border—Work the scallop in buttonhole stitch with Corticelli Persian Floss, 615. One corner is turned under on the wrong side and buttonholed on the right side through both thicknesses of linen. Work the straight line, or slit, in the turned over corner, in fine buttonhole stitch with Corticelli Persian Floss, 615. The stems, which apparently come through the slit, should be worked in outline stitch with Green, 783. Colored Plate V.

Flowers.—Begin the edge of the petals with 640, shading gradually lighter toward the calyx with 638, 637, 636, 635.5. Make some petals lighter than others by omitting 638, using only 637, 636, 635.5. For the calyx use Green, 780 and 781, shading darker to the stem with 783.

Leaves.—Work solid, using 780 for the points and shading gradually darker with 781 and 782. Work the stems with 783. (Easy.)

Bohemian Glass Design No. 606 B.

Border.—Work the scallop in buttonhole stitch with Corticelli EE Embroidery Silk, White, 615. Work the scrolls near the border in outline stitch with Filo Silk, Brown, 644.8. See Colored Plate II. Between the lines work innumerable small stitches with 946 to represent seeds. (See article on Stitches—"Seed Stitch.")

Pointed Figure.—Cross-bar the center of the pointed figure running inward from the border with 644.7, catching down the lines where they intersect with 646, and outline the figure with the same shade. See Colored Plate XII.

Flowers.—Work solid in Violet, 649.9, 650, 651, making each flower in[Pg 35] one shade, choosing the lighter shades for the flowers having five petals and making the flowers in the rear of the bunch in the darker shades. Put one French knot in the center of the open flower, using Green, 780. See Colored Plate XII.

Leaves and Vine.—Begin point of leaf with Green, 780, shading to center with 781, 782. Make some of the leaves darker by omitting 780. Work the veins and stems with 783. Along the vine work in seed stitch several groups of three or four little dots each, using Red, 542.

Inside Scrolls.—Work solid, making ends or points in Brown, 644.6, shading darker in the middle with 644.7, 644.8. For the shadow on each side of the fold use 646. For the half circle scroll use 644.6. Make the points of the Fleur-de-lis in White Filo, 615, shading darker to base with Brown, 644.6, 644.7, 644.8. Work the round dot solid in 646. (Not Difficult.)

Border.—Work the scallop in buttonhole stitch with Corticelli Persian Floss, White, 615, working the shell shaped scallop long and short on the inside. Into this shade work 809, using one thread of Filo Silk, still leaving the indented effect (alternate long and short stitches) on the inside. See Colored Plate III. Work the scroll near the border in seamstress feather stitch or outline stitch with Green, 781.

Flowers.—Work solid. Begin the edge with 814, using 813, 743.7, 743.6, 812, 809, toward the center. Make some flowers lighter than others. All the shades mentioned are not required for each flower. In each petal of the open flower make three rays in Brown, 779. The part of the calyx shown[Pg 36] between the petals work in Green, 782. See Colored Plate XIII. Use 814 for the edge of the buds, shading lighter to the calyx with 813, 743.7. Put a touch of 743.7 at the end of calyx, work remaining part in 781, 782, using the lighter shade nearest the petals.

Leaves.—Work each leaf in one shade of Green, making all the stitches come to the center. Use 781 for the small leaves, and 782, 783, for the larger ones. For stems and veins use 784, and for the small buds 781. (Not Difficult.)

Bachelor's Button Design No. 607 B.

Border.—Work the scallop in buttonhole stitch with Corticelli Persian Floss, White, 615. The edge of the shell scallop in the border should be worked with 615. Into this white shade Corticelli Filo Silk, Blue, 744, leaving a long and short effect on inside. See Colored Plate III. The scroll near the border should be worked with Green, 661.

Flowers.—Work solid. Begin the edge of the petals with Corticelli Filo Silk, Blue, 746, shading lighter to the center with 745 and 744. Fill the center with[Pg 37] stamens in Red Purple, 675, placing a French knot at head of each stamen in Green, 781. See Colored Plate XIV. Work the part of calyx nearest the petals with Green, 662, and that nearest the stem with 663. Over this green make a few stitches like an inverted V "Λ," in 675. Work the seed pod in the same shades as the calyx, putting a few stitches in 675 on the edges as shown by Colored Plate XIV.

Leaves.—Work solid, making the points in 661, shading gradually darker to the center with 662, 663. For the stem use 664, making two lines of stem stitch, or use outline stitch, but slant the stitches more than usual. (Not Difficult.)

Red Clover Design No. 607 C.

Border.—Work the scallop in buttonhole stitch with Corticelli Persian Floss, White, 615. The shell shaped scallop buttonhole irregularly long and short on the inside. Over this work Corticelli Filo Silk, Pink, 655.7, into which shade Pink, 678, leaving a long and short effect on the inside. See Colored Plate III. The scroll near the border can be done in either outline or seamstress feather stitch in Green, 781.

Flowers.—Work solid in shades of Pink, 655.7, 678, 679, 680, 682. Use only one shade for a petal. Make the back petals in 679, 680; the middle or center petals with 655.7, 678; and those nearest the stem in 680, 682. Be careful to keep the petals separate. See Colored Plate XV.

Leaves.—Work the leaves under the flower solid with green, using 782 for the edge, and 781 for the crescent or horseshoe. At the base of the leaves near the stem work a few stitches of 783, using the same shade for the stems. (Easy.)

Border.—Work the scallop in buttonhole stitch with Corticelli Persian Floss, White, 616.5. Buttonhole the shell scallop long and short on the inside, and over this work one thread of Corticelli Filo Silk 616.5, leaving a long and short effect on the inside. See Colored Plate No. III. The scroll near the center work in outline stitch with 813.

Flowers.—Begin the edge of the petals in Yellow, 504, shading darker to the base of petal with 505, 506, 507, 508, 813, 814. It is not necessary to use all these shades in every petal; make some lighter and some darker. Work the center of the full flower in 504. For the petals that curl inward and over the center use 508, shading darker to base with 813, 814. Work the edge of petals of buds in 507, shading darker toward the calyx with 508, 813, 814. Use Green, 781, for the points of calyx, shading darker towards the stem with 782, 783.

Leaves.—Work the edges with 781, shading darker toward the center with 782, 783. Vein with 784. Work the stems in two rows of stem stitch with 784. (Not Difficult.)

Buttercup Design No. 607 E.

Border.—Work the scallop in buttonhole stitch with Corticelli Persian Floss, White, 615. Work the shell scallop in buttonhole stitch, long and short on the inside; work over the white with one thread of Corticelli Filo Silk, Yellow, 503, leaving on the inside a long and short effect. See Colored Plate III.

Flowers.—Work solid. Begin the edge of the petals with Yellow, 507, shading lighter to the center with 506, 505, 504, 503. Some flowers should be darker than others. In the center of the flower work a few stitches of Green, 781, and around these stitches make a few French knots in 781 also. See Colored Plate XVI.

Leaves.—Work solid. Begin the points with 781, and shade into 754 toward the center. Work the stems in outline stitch with Green, 754. (Easy.)

For a Christmas or New Year's present nothing is more appropriate than a centerpiece or doily embroidered with the handsome holly. This design is quite simple and is easily worked.

Border.—Work the scallop in buttonhole stitch with Corticelli Persian[Pg 40] Floss, White, 615. Work the shell-shaped scallop long and short on the inside. Over this indented buttonhole work, shade in one thread of Filo Silk, White, 615, leaving a long and short effect on the inside. See Colored Plate IV, Borders. Work the scroll near the border in seamstress feather stitch or in outline stitch with Filo Silk, White, 615, or in Green, 781.

Berries.—Work in satin stitch with Corticelli Filo Silk, Red, 767, 768, using only one shade in each berry.

Leaves.—Work solid, using Green, 781, for the edge. Shade darker toward the center with 754, 582, 583, 785, 586. Make some leaves darker than others. Use 781 for the turned over parts of the leaves. Work the stems and veins in 584 and 785. (Easy.)