The Project Gutenberg eBook, Oysters and Fish, by Thomas J. (Thomas Jefferson) Murrey

Oysters and Fish

BY

THOMAS J. MURREY

AUTHOR OF “FIFTY SOUPS,” “FIFTY SALADS,” “BREAKFAST
DAINTIES,” “PUDDINGS AND DAINTY DESSERTS,” “THE
BOOK OF ENTRÉES,” “COOKERY FOR INVALIDS,”
“PRACTICAL CARVING,” “LUNCHEON,” “VALUABLE
COOKING RECIPES,” ETC.

NEW YORK
Copyright, 1888, by
FREDERICK A. STOKES & BROTHER
1888

DEDICATION.

To the Inventor of the

SHELDON CLOSE-TOP GAS-STOVE,

Who spent the best part of his life solving the
perplexed problem of Economy in Fuel and
Labor in our homes, and to those gentlemen
connected with gas companies, who assisted
and encouraged him, this little work is
most respectfully dedicated by

THE AUTHOR.

5

CONTENTS.

11

INTRODUCTORY.

Would it not be beneficial, were the average American to substitute fish for the everlasting steak and chop of the breakfast-table?

For the sake of variety, if for no other reason, we should eat more fish; and it need not always be fried or broiled. A well-made fish stew or a curry should be acceptable to the majority of us, and undoubtedly would be if appetizingly prepared.

This little work does not by any means propose to exhaust the subject of sea-food, for the subject is almost inexhaustible; but it places within the reach of all a series of recipes and suggestions extremely valuable to the average housewife.

THE OYSTER.

The Oyster Season opens in the city of New York on the first day of September, and closes on the last day of April in each year.12 The annual amount of business done in the oyster trade is close on to $5,000,000. Each successive year witnesses an increase in the business.

Notwithstanding the R canon, there are thousands of persons who eat oysters at the summer resorts along the seashore throughout hot weather.

Oysters out of Season.—The writer does not recommend the eating of oysters out of their season, no matter how fresh they may be, or how appetizing they may appear.

To supply the demands made upon them by summer resorts, oyster-planters shift the oysters, during the spawning season, from warm shallow water to cold deep water. This checks or prevents the oysters from spawning, and to all appearance they are edible; but the writer firmly believes that interfering with the laws of nature affects the health of the oyster, and they cannot be as wholesome as planters would have us believe.

Oysters Preserved in Shell.—So long as the oyster retains its natural juices, it will live out of water, provided the changes in the temperature are not too sudden. The moment the oyster opens its shells, however, the juices run out, and in a short time afterward the oyster13 dies. To prevent the oyster opening its stony overcoat, is the object of oyster-shippers; and the Patent Office bears witness to their many devices having this object in view. Some wire the shells, others clasp or envelope the broad end of the shells with tin or other metal. No doubt these devices aid in keeping the oyster alive and fresh a little longer. Whether the nervous system of the oyster is affected by the process, is a question. Scientists tell us that oysters possess organs of sensation, and all who have handled oysters learn in time that a sudden jar or shock will kill them. The jar of the machinery of a steamboat will sometimes kill an oyster. When shipped to Europe they are ordered to be stored as far away from the machinery as possible. Some authorities claim that the oyster can hear. One cannot noisily approach an oyster-bed at feeding time without their hearing, and instantly every shell is closed. A cloud or a boat passing over an oyster-bank will cause every shell to close with proverbial tightness, and the sound of thunder will often kill them while they are in transit,—conclusive evidence that the nervous system in an oyster, while not highly developed, is of sufficient importance to merit attention from those who roughly handle oysters.

14

The Food of the Oyster consists of minute animal and vegetable organisms and small particles of organized matter. Ordinary sea-water contains an abundance of this sort of food, which is drawn into the gills with the water. As the water strains through the pores into the water tubes, the food particles are caught on the surface of the gills by a layer of adhesive slime. As soon as they are entangled, the microscopic hair-like projections on the gills strike against them in such a way as to slide them along the gills toward the mouth. When they reach the anterior ends of the gills, they are pushed off, and fall between the lips, which are also covered with thin hair-like projections, which carry the particles forward until they slide into the mouth. No wonder the intelligent tramp wished that he might become an oyster. His food would then come to him in a sort of endless progression.

Formation of the Deep Shell.—Although the oyster lies upon the bottom with one shell above and one below, the shells are not upon the top and bottom of the body, but upon the right and left sides. The two shells are symmetrical in the young oyster; but after it becomes attached, the lower or attached side grows faster than the other, and becomes15 deep and spoon-shaped, while the free valve remains nearly flat. In nearly every case the lower or deep valve is the left.

Cock Oysters.—There is a belief among oyster-eaters, that the dark-gray or black oysters are male oysters, and are therefore superior to the female oyster. Such misinformation was evidently promulgated by oyster-openers in anticipation of a tip for serving selected oysters. There is no truth in the assertion, however, for there are just as many black female oysters as there are black male oysters. There is no characteristic color by which a male or cock oyster can be distinguished from a female oyster. Microscopic examination, or a scientific eye, is the means of discovering the sex of an oyster.

The black-oyster romance is of ancient origin. The Roman oyster-smashers successfully “worked it” on Pliny, Horace, and other ancient writers and epicures.

Green Oysters.—At least a million dollars worth of oysters are annually destroyed in New-York waters by sludge acid from the oil refineries and illegal dumpings. The acid kills the oysters the instant it touches them, and turns them green. There is very little danger that a poisoned oyster will reach the consumer, but the loss to the planter is enormous.

16

The green tint of the oyster, or in fact any distinguished color the oyster may possess, is due to the color of its food and to the nature of the surrounding bottom. The bottom of the Shrewsbury River is mud; the oysters take on a peculiar tawny color from their muddy bed. Rockaway oysters exist on a hard sandy bottom. If the beds are covered with sea-lettuce, as they often are, the oysters take on a delicate green tint. When the lettuce is removed by a strong tide or high wind, the oysters gradually assume their white, slightly grayish color. Their shells are round, thin, and brittle. The shells from mud bottoms are long, narrow, thick, and spongy. Intruded mud is enclosed by a thin layer of pearly shell.

The oyster epicure may rest assured of one fact. No matter what the color of an oyster may be, so long as it is alive and seasonable it is wholesome. It cannot absorb enough foreign matter to injure the epicure without committing suicide, and there is no possible danger of any one swallowing a dead oyster.

Banquet Oysters.—As served at the average public banquet, the raw oyster is a thing of terror to appetite and to weak digestive organs. When looking for one’s seat, where, through an oversight, one is not furnished with a chart of17 the tables, one beholds six very small emaciated oysters. The heat in the room has absorbed their moisture, afterwards the bed of fine ice on which they were placed has melted, and the water overflowed them, thereby finishing the work of destruction. One must be under the influence of the sherry and Vermouth of the reception-rooms, to be willing to begin the feast with such an introductory course. No wonder fashionable society demands a substitute for the oyster as the dinner season progresses. In the name of humanity, order the oysters to table and announce the dinner at the same time. Guests are willing to wait a few moments for toothsome oysters, provided they are direct from the ice-box.

Ordering Oysters for the Family Table.—Send the servant to the nearest dealer, a few minutes before the oysters are wanted, and let her wait for them. In this way one is quite sure of procuring freshly opened oysters. Many dealers begin opening oysters for their family orders hours before they are to be served; and the result is, they have lost much of their juices before being served.

Miss Parloa’s “New Cook Book” says, “Six large oysters are usually allowed each person.” This error should be corrected in future editions.18 Large raw oysters on the half-shell are only served at oyster-counters to countrymen, and are not served at a dinner, no matter how unpretentious or how elaborate the affair may be.

How Oysters should be opened.—In the author’s work on “Luncheon,” reference is made to the great care which should be exercised in opening oysters; and it will bear repeating. Reject all oysters opened by the “smashing” process. The shells are not only broken and ragged, but, should a person swallow a ragged splinter of oyster-shell, there is great danger of its killing him. Insist on it that your oysters are opened by the so-called “stabbing” process.

How to serve Raw Oysters.—If for a quiet family affair, where “opened” oysters are used, keep the plates in ice-water, and dry them before placing the oysters on them. For more pretentious affairs, but where fancy oyster-plates are not a part of the dinner service, use soup-plates. Fill them with fine cracked ice, place a dainty doily over each, and set the oysters on top of the doily. The lemon should be served on a side-dish, and not in the centre of the dish as though one were dining in a restaurant. Four small Rockaways are sufficient to serve at the ordinary course dinner. In nine19 cases are out of ten, Rockaways are served instead of the Blue Points. It is therefore advisable to order the former; the dealer might make a mistake if he had them in stock, and send the latter.

It is quite English to serve raw oysters on the flat half-shell, but it is quite American to serve them on the deep shell. The American way is the best.

Collation Service.—At evening collations, the oysters are served in the centre of a block of ice. A clear, square block of ice is selected, and a cavity or receptacle is made in it by the aid of a hot flat-iron held close to the ice. If one has patience, the cavity may be shaved out with an ice shave; if a pick is used, one is likely to split the cake of ice. An ice boat is easily formed by holding a hot flat-iron to a long piece of ice. Holes may be made through the bottom of the block of ice, and filled with brilliant flowers; and the outer sides and top should be handsomely decorated with flowers and smilax. If electric lights are used in the house, it is an easy matter to place them in the cake of ice: the effect is striking. The wires are carried from the room below the dining-room, or under the carpet.

How to eat a Raw Oyster.—Avoid as much as possible the use of condiments, when20 eating oysters. They were never intended as an accompaniment of the oyster, and are only used by country people. A suspicion of lemon; a dash of salt when the dealer has kept them covered with cracked ice, and the descending ice-water washed out all sea flavor; and, for palates grown callous, a dash of cayenne. Such abominations as ketchup, Worcestershire sauce, etc., should never be used. Do not bolt the oyster, but masticate it; and one will soon learn to tell the different oysters by their different flavors. By bolting them, one will never know how to thoroughly appreciate them.

A Barrel of Oysters.—Persons living away from the city are advised to purchase oysters by the barrel. If kept with the deep shell down, and in a cool place, they will live a long time. The novice is likely to bruise fingers in vain attempts to open them; but, like carving, the opening of oysters should be part of a man’s education. Then there is the charm of roasting the oysters in the old-fashioned fire-place. Here the novice may burn a finger or two, but then it’s fun for the youngsters.

Read this!—In W. Mattieu Williams’s “Chemistry of Cookery,” I find the following:21 “More than half a century has elapsed since Dr. Beaumont published the results of his experiments on Alexis St. Martin. These showed that fresh raw oysters required two hours and fifty-five minutes to digest, and stewed fresh oysters three and a half hours for digestion; against one hour for boiled tripe, and three hours for roast or boiled beef or mutton.”

The general impression among the people is, that raw oysters digest almost as soon as they become of the same temperature of the stomach.

COOKED OYSTERS.

Stewed Oysters.—Boil half a pint of milk; add to it eleven good-sized oysters, a walnut of butter, a dash of salt and of pepper. Allow the milk to boil up just once, and serve.

The average cook puts the oysters on first, and after they boil cold milk is added. When the milk boils, the stew is served. The result of such treatment of the oyster causes it to shrivel so that it is hardly recognizable, and a good-sized oyster becomes a mere sprat. From this process of cooking originated the ancient moth-eaten jokes about church-fair stews.

Cooked as in the foregoing recipe, the oyster retains its plump characteristics.

22

Philadelphia Fried Oysters.—The author originally published this recipe in the New York “Evening Sun” by request.

The average New Yorker may call the City of Brotherly Love a sleepy sort of a place, but it is wide enough awake gastronomically. It has within its city limits cooks who prepare fried oysters that fairly melt in one’s mouth. They are so delicate that there is not a pang of dyspepsia in a whole winter’s supply of the toothsome dainties. The reputation of Finneli’s Philadelphia fried oysters extends from Maine to California; and immense sums have been offered for the recipe, but its owner would not sell his secret at any price.

Beat up three eggs thoroughly; add half a pint of oyster-juice, a pepper-spoonful of cayenne, a saltspoonful of black pepper, a tablespoonful of salt, and a teaspoonful of English mustard. Work the mixture to a batter, and gradually add a gill of oil. Now comes the more particular part of the formula. Cover a board or part of a table with a layer of cracker-crumbs half an inch deep. Drain fifty oysters free from liquid, place them on the cracker-crumbs, and dredge over them more cracker-crumbs. See to it that one oyster is not on top of another. Pick up each oyster by its beard,23 and dip it in the batter. Have ready a quantity of bread-crumbs grated from the white part of stale bread; spread this out on the table, and after the oysters have been dipped in the batter lay them carefully on the bread-crumbs two inches apart. After they are all spread out, turn them over neatly, which will bread-crumb the other side. Dip them in the batter again by taking hold of the beard, and again spread them out on the bread-crumbs. Under no circumstances place one oyster on top of another, or in any way press them together; this would make them heavy. When the fat is so hot that the smoke from it would light a match, then fry them by again taking hold of the beard, one at a time, and dropping them into the fat. When they are dark brown, take them up, and strew over them a quantity of salt.

The secret is in carefully handling the oyster after it has been breaded. How differently New York restaurants serve fried oysters! In almost every eating place in the city, one sees piles of oysters covered with a batter that plainly shows the cook purposely pressed them between his hands. When served they look more like liver-pads than human food. Nothing short of a human ostrich could possibly digest them. The Philadelphia oyster, however, is a culinary poem.

24

Curry of Oysters.—Put an ounce of butter in a pan; add to it a teaspoon of curry-powder, and water enough to prevent burning. Put fifteen oysters in just water enough to cover them, simmer three minutes, and drain; thicken the broth with a teaspoonful of flour, salt to taste, stir this into the curry; add the oysters, simmer a moment, and serve with boiled rice.

Pickled-Oyster Omelet.—Rinse six spiced or pickled oysters in cold water. Divide an ounce of butter into little balls, and roll them in flour; put them in a saucepan, heat gradually, and whisk to a cream; add a gill of hot water, salt and pepper. Cut the oysters in two, and add to the butter. Prepare an omelet in the usual manner; before folding, add the oysters; turn out on a hot dish, and serve.

Deviled Oysters on Toast.—Mix together a heaping saltspoonful of mustard flour, half a saltspoonful each of white pepper and salt, and the yolk of one egg. Dip six oysters in the paste, then in fine crumbs, and broil over a moderate fire. When done, arrange on toast, and squeeze over them the juice of half a lemon.

Pickled Oysters.—A few pickled oysters may be served instead of clams during warm weather. Scald a quart of oysters a moment, drain, and put them in jars. To a pint of oyster25 liquor, add half a pint of hot water and half a pint of hot vinegar; pour over the oysters; add three cloves, four whole peppers, a small bit of mace, and a slice of lemon, to each jar. This will be sufficient for two ordinary fruit-jars.

Scalloped Oysters.—Put in the bottom of a yellow dish two ounces of sweet butter, divided into little pieces. Add a layer of raw oysters, and cover them with cracker-dust or bread-crumbs, and add salt and pepper to taste; another layer of oysters, and so on until the dish is full, the last or top layer to be crumbs, and between each layer there should be a small amount of butter. Moisten the ingredients with a liberal quantity of oyster liquid, put small butter balls on top of the dish, and bake a delicate brown color. Oysters were formerly baked in a scalloped or shell-shaped dish, hence the name.

Oyster Salad.—Boil two dozen small oysters for five minutes in water enough to cover them; add a little salt and a tablespoonful of vinegar; drain and cool. Put into a salad-bowl the centre leaves of two heads of cabbage lettuce, add the oysters whole, pour over them a mayonnaise; garnish with oyster-crabs, hard-boiled eggs, and, if liked, a few anchovies cut into fillets.

26

Plain Fried Oysters.—As a rule, fried oysters are not served as a breakfast dish, owing to the coating with which they are usually surrounded. Served plain, however, they are quite acceptable. Dry them well in a napkin, and roll them in a little flour to insure that they are quite dry, then cook them in a very little hot dripping.

Miss Parloa’s “New Cook-Book” says, “a quart of oysters is enough for a party of ten” (p. 118). There are from twenty to twenty-five oysters in a quart, rarely more than this.

Oyster Toast.—Select fifteen plump oysters; chop them fine, and add salt, pepper, and a suspicion of nutmeg. Beat up the yolks of two eggs with a gill of cream; whisk this into the simmering oysters. When set, pour the whole over slices of buttered toast.

Oyster Omelet.—Stew six oysters in their own liquor for five minutes; remove the oysters, and thicken the liquid with a walnut of butter rolled in flour; season with salt and cayenne; whisk this to a cream. Chop the oysters, and add them to the sauce; simmer until the sauce thickens. Beat up four eggs lightly, and add a tablespoonful of cream; turn out into a hot pan, and fry a light gold-color. Before folding the omelet entirely, place the oysters with part of27 the sauce within, and turn it over on a hot dish. The remainder of the sauce should be poured round it.

Oysters Broiled.—Rub the bars of a wire broiler with a little sweet butter; dry twelve large, plump oysters in a napkin, and place them on the broiler; brush a little butter over them, and broil over a fire free from flame and smoke. When done on both sides, arrange them neatly on toast; pour a little well-seasoned melted butter over them, and serve.

Do not bread-crumb oysters intend for broiling.

Tripe with Oysters.—Tripe, when properly prepared by a simple process, is very nutritious and easily digested.

Cut up half a pound of well-washed tripe; simmer for three-quarters of an hour in water slightly salted; take out the tripe; add to the broth a little butter rolled in flour, salt and pepper; add a little more flour if not thick enough. Return the tripe and a dozen oysters; simmer for a few minutes longer, and serve.

Oysters en Brochette.—Select one dozen choice oysters; plunge them into hot water a second to make them firm (this process is called blanching), then drain, and dip them into melted butter; arrange them on skewers with alternate28 layers of neatly sliced bacon; broil over a moderate fire. When done, add maitre-d’hôtel butter to them, and serve on the skewers.

Fried Oysters.—Beat up the yolks of four eggs with three tablespoonfuls of sweet oil, and season them with a teaspoonful of salt and a saltspoonful of cayenne pepper; beat up thoroughly. Dry twelve fat oysters on a napkin; dip them in the egg batter, then in cracker-dust; shake off the loose cracker-dust, dip them again in the egg batter, and lastly roll them in fine bread-crumbs. Fry in very hot fat, using fat enough to cover them. The oil gives them a nice flavor.

Oyster and Canned Salmon Pie.—One pound of best canned salmon, one pint of solid oysters, half a pint of oyster liquid; cover the bottom of the dish with neat pieces of the salmon, season with salt and pepper and an ounce of butter rolled in flour, add a few oysters, and so on until the ingredients are used. Pour in the liquid of both, and cover the top with paste. Bake in a moderate oven. There should be liquid enough to have the ingredients moist when served.

Oyster Patties.—Roll out a pound of light puff-paste, half an inch in thickness; cut it into rounds with a cake-cutter two inches in29 diameter; press a small cutter one inch in diameter, on each round, one-fourth of an inch deep. Place them on a buttered tin, brush a little beaten egg over them, and bake in a quick oven. When done, remove the centre and a little of the inside. Scald (or, as it is called, blanch) three dozen oysters; drain. Put into a saucepan two ounces of butter, whisk it to a cream; add a teaspoonful of flour, stir free from lumps; add a heaping saltspoonful of salt, and a pepperspoonful of white pepper; whisk into it half a pint each of hot cream and the oyster liquor; allow it to simmer a few minutes and to thicken; then add the oysters and a “squeeze” of lemon-juice; when hot fill the shells, and serve. If nutmeg is not objected to, a little may be used.

Oysters à la Poulette.—Blanch (scald) a dozen oysters in their own liquor; drain them, and add to the liquor, salt, half an ounce of butter, the juice of half a lemon, a gill of cream, and a teaspoonful of dissolved flour. Beat the yolk of one egg, and add to the sauce. Stir until the sauce thickens; place the oysters on a hot dish, pour the sauce over them, add a very little chopped parsley, and serve.

Pie of Oysters and Scallops.—Take one pint of fresh scallops, and wash them in cold30 water; drain, and dry them in a napkin. Cut a few slices of fat bacon in strips small enough to insert the ends in a larding-needle; lard the scallops with them, and dredge them slightly with flour. Select one quart of fat oysters; line a baking-dish with puff-paste; add the scallops and oysters in layers; season with salt, pepper, and a dash of mace. Divide an ounce of butter into little balls, roll them in flour, and put them between the layers; add the oyster liquor. Cover with a top crust; bake forty minutes in a moderate oven.

Steamed Oysters.—Wash and scrub the shells thoroughly, and rinse them off in cold water. Put them in a steamer, large or deep shell down. Put the steamer on top of a pot of boiling water; steam about six minutes, or until the shells separate. Have ready a hot dish containing melted butter seasoned with a dash of Worcestershire, lemon-juice, salt and cayenne. Remove them from the steamer with gloved hands, and pick out the oysters with a flat knife, saving all the juice possible. Dip the oysters in the butter as you open them, and the number one can eat is surprising.

To serve Steamed Oysters.—Steam them as in the foregoing recipe. At each guest’s place at table have ready little saucers containing31 a quantity of the hot melted butter. Remove the flat shell, and serve the oyster in the lower shell; send about six oysters to each guest at a time.

Roast Oysters.—Clean the shells thoroughly, and place them on the coals in an open fire-place, or remove the top of range, and put them on the live coals, until they snap open, which they will soon do. Care must be exercised not to burn fingers.

At evening, young folks like the fun of roasting oysters in the furnace below stairs, and eating them from the shell as fast as the host can open them.

Baked Oysters.—Clean the shells thoroughly, and fill a dripping-pan with them, deep shell down. Look at them after ten minutes. If the shells are all opened, they are cooked enough. Melted butter, nicely seasoned, is the only sauce to serve with them.

CLAMS.

Little-Neck Clams.—From the first of September until the first of May in the following year, the clam—which is richer in nutrition than the oyster—is as meek and as gentle as a32 clam can be. Yet it submits to all sorts of indignities from the oyster, and has never been known to talk back during the period mentioned. After the first of May, however, its manner changes, and it assumes metropolitan airs. It lords it over the oyster as a bantam struts around a helpless foe; and it plainly intimates to the oyster that moving-day was invented to celebrate its departure.

After May 1, the clam must be recognized as the avant-coureur of all dainty feasts. No summer dinner or supper of any pretensions is considered complete without the small clam. All the small clams in market are supposed to come from Little Neck, Long Island. Not one-quarter of the supply comes from this locality.

Soft Clams in Chafing-Dish.—Select a dozen large Guilford clams, wash them thoroughly, and plunge them into boiling water for a moment. Drain and open them, and use the round plump part only. Put in a chafing-dish a pat of butter, and when quite hot add a dash of flour, and cayenne to suit the taste; add the clams, and when they are slightly cooked add a gill of light sherry. Cover the dish, and allow it to simmer five minutes. Have ready three slices of toast, put four clams upon each slice, add a little of the hot sherry, and serve.

33

Stewed Little-Neck Clams.—Get two dozen freshly opened, very small clams. Boil a pint of milk, a dash of white pepper, and a small pat of butter. Now add the clams. Let them come to a boil, and serve. Longer boiling will make the clams almost indigestible.

Soft Clams.—Select a dozen soft-shell clams; wash them well; remove the shells; trim off the tough neck; place each clam on a half-shell, and add to each half a teaspoonful of finely-chopped bacon, a little cayenne, a very small bit of onion, and a pat of butter rolled in flour; strew over the top a little grated Parmesan cheese, and bake to a delicate brown. Cracker-crumbs may be used instead of the cheese if preferred.

Soft-Shell Clams, Scalloped.—Purchase a dozen large soft clams in the shell, and three dozen opened clams. Ask the dealer to open the first dozen, care being used not to injure the shells, which are to be used in cooking the clams. Clean the shells well, and put two soft clams on each half-shell; add to each a dash of white pepper and half a teaspoonful of minced celery. Cut a slice of fat bacon into the smallest dice, add four of these to each shell, strew over the top a thin layer of cracker-dust, place a pat of table butter on top, and34 bake in the oven until brown. They are delightful when properly prepared.

Clam Toast.—Chop up two dozen small clams into fine pieces; simmer for thirty minutes in hot water enough to cover them. Beat up the yolks of two eggs; add a little cayenne and a gill of warmed milk; dissolve half a teaspoonful of flour in a little cold milk; simmer all together; pour over buttered toast, and serve.

Clam Broth.—Procure three dozen Little-Neck clams in the shell; wash them well in cold water; put them in a saucepan, cover with a quart of hot water; boil fifteen minutes; drain; remove the shells; chop up the clams, and add them to the hot broth with a pat of butter; salt if necessary, and add a little cayenne; boil ten minutes, pour into a soup-tureen, add a slice of toast, and send to table. This is the mode adopted when we do not have a clam-opener in the house.

Raw, freshly opened clams should be chopped fine and prepared in the manner above described. The large clams are better for chowders than for stews and broth.

Clam Fritters.—Chop medium fine twenty-five large quahaugs, or seventy-five Little Necks. To a pint of flour add the beaten yolks35 of three eggs, half a teaspoonful of salt, a teaspoonful of lemon-juice, a dash of cayenne, and an ounce of melted butter. Mix well, and make a batter by adding about a gill of milk. Add the clams, and if the batter is too thick add a little of the clam broth. To make them light, beat the mixture well; drop spoonfuls in hot fat, and fry brown, as you would doughnuts.

Fried Soft Clams.—Select half a dozen of large Guilford clams. Remove the shells, and trim off the dark tough parts. Cut into dice a quarter of a pound of salt pork, and fry it. In the pork-fat fry the clams, but first dredge them with flour. Serve with a slice of broiled or fried fat pork.

CRABS.

Hard-shell Crabs.—The common blue crab is the species of the crab family which we are most familiar with. We remember how rapidly they darted away from us when we pointed the net towards them, when on our summer vacation. We also have vivid recollections of their anxiety to shake hands with us when in captivity.

Hard crabs are to be had during almost the entire season, and the average price asked for36 them is $3.00 per hundred. Those found in market in winter were raked out of the mud, where they had buried themselves until the advent of warm weather.

Select a dozen hard crabs, and rinse them well in fresh water. Have ready a kettle two-thirds full of boiling water, slightly salted; plunge them into it, and boil them for about twelve minutes; drain, and when cool put them in the ice-box to become cold.

After the theatre, return home for supper, instead of patronizing the restaurant, and serve the crabs with sandwiches of buttered bread. A light sauterne may be served with them, if not objected to.

Crab Patties, Cream Sauce.—Roll out a pound of light puff-paste, half an inch in thickness. Cut it into rounds with a cake-cutter two inches in diameter. Press a small cutter one inch in diameter, on each round, one-fourth of an inch deep. Place them on a buttered tin, brush a little beaten egg over them, and bake in a quick oven. When done, remove the centre, and a little of the inside.

Put into a saucepan half an ounce of butter, half an onion minced, half a pound of minced raw veal, and a small carrot shredded. Toss about for two or three minutes to fry, but not37 to color; then add two tablespoonfuls of flour. Mix it well with the other ingredients, and add three pints of hot water, a pint of boiling cream, half a teaspoonful of salt, and a saltspoonful of white pepper. Simmer one hour, and strain into a saucepan. Add to each pint of it half a gill of warm cream. Place back on range again, and simmer until reduced enough to coat the spoon, then strain into a crock, and whisk until it is cold. This is done to prevent the formation of a thick top. At this season of the year this is an excellent sauce to have on hand for patties, white fish sauces, and also for meat sauces. When wanted for patties, melt an ounce of butter. While whisking it, gradually add a pint of the sauce. Mix it with a quart of prepared crab-meat, obtainable at the grocer’s. When hot, fill the shells with it.

Soft-shell Crabs.—When the blue crab is desirous of increasing his growth, he sheds his shell, and for a short period is perfectly helpless. The male usually retires to a secluded spot out of the reach of eels and other enemies, but the female soft shell is protected by a male companion whose shell is hard. At Sheepshead Bay these are called elopers or double crabs. As the tide changes, the soft shell begins to harden, when it is called “paper-shell,” shedder,38 or feeler. Before reaching its normal condition, the crab is called a buckler, and is only used as bait.

The Care of Soft Crabs.—Soft crabs require delicate handling and much care. They deteriorate rapidly after leaving the water, and are often killed in transit by the sudden jarring of the train. If a little care is exercised, they may be kept alive from six to ten days. First select vigorous crabs, remove them from the crate, and give them a bath in water slightly salted. Clean the crate thoroughly, renew or wash the seaweed which accompanies them. Strew over the bottom of the crate a layer of the seaweed, and place the crabs in the crate in layers, faces upward with side spines touching each other, and alternated with layers of seaweed. When the crate is full, cover it with more seaweed, sprinkle salt water over all, and set the crate in a dark, cool place. Sprinkle salt water over them from day to day, and renew the bath and fresh sea-tangle about every other day. Treated this way, they will keep in the hottest weather. One of the principal objects in covering them with seaweed is to keep the light from them. Sudden flashes of lightning, if seen by them, would frighten them to death. Their sensitive organization cannot39 even stand the rumbling of thunder, and they should be stored away where they cannot hear it distinctly. The only care required in cleaning them for the table is to remove the feathery gill-like formations under the side spines, and the sand-pouch. Soft crabs are too delicate morsels to cover with batter.

Crabs, Soft-shell.—These should be cooked as soon as possible after being caught, as their flavor rapidly deteriorates after being exposed to the air. Select crabs as lively as possible; remove the feathery substance under the pointed sides of the shells; rinse them in cold water; drain; season with salt and pepper; dredge them in flour, and fry in hot fat.

Many serve them rolled in eggs and cracker-dust; but thus they are not as good.

Crab Croquettes.—Take one pound of crab-meat; gently press out the juice, and put it in a bowl with a tablespoonful of fine crumbs, half a teaspoonful of salt, half a saltspoonful of pepper, a dash of anchovy essence, the yolks of two eggs, and a very little cold water. If the eggs are not enough to make it the proper consistency, bind the ingredients together, and place on ice until wanted; then work into corks or cone-shaped forms, dip them in beaten egg, then in crumbs, and fry in hot fat.

40

Crab Patties, à la Bechamel.—Prepare the shells the same as for oyster patties (which see). Put into a saucepan half an ounce of butter, half a medium-sized onion minced, half a pound of minced raw veal, one small carrot shredded; toss about for two minutes to fry, but not to color; add two tablespoonfuls of flour, stir it about with the vegetables; then add three pints of hot water, or if convenient use hot soup-stock instead; add a pint of boiling cream. Season with half a teaspoonful of salt and a saltspoonful of white pepper. Simmer one hour, and strain into a saucepan. Add to each pint of sauce half a wineglassful of cream. Simmer until reduced enough to coat a spoon; strain it again into a crock, and whisk it until cold, to prevent a thick top from forming. When wanted for patties, or any thing else, boil one pint of it with an ounce of butter, whisking it thoroughly. Prepare a quart of solid crab-meat, either picked from the shells or purchased already prepared; add it to a pint of the sauce; strew in a few shredded mushrooms: fill the crab-shells with this, and serve. On fast-days, omit veal and stock from meats, and use milk instead.

[This very excellent sauce was named after the Marquis de Bechamel, a worthless court-lounger and steward under Louis XIV. Why his41 unsavory memory has been perpetuated by a gastronomic monument of worth, is one of those inexplicable historical facts that students of the art of cookery are continually stumbling upon. The close observer will not fail, however, to discover that nearly all dishes named after old French celebrities were stolen bodily from old Venetian and Provençal books of cookery, and were re-baptized after some of the most notorious profligates of the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries. Many of these old cook-books, like “Opusculum de Obsoniis de Honesta Voluptate,” a volume printed at Venice, 1475 (the first cookery-book published), and others, contain recipes almost identical with French cookery of the past few centuries.]

Crabs, à l’Américaine.—Pick out the meat from the shells of four dozen boiled hard-shell crabs; squeeze out the water gently; put the meat in a bowl, and add the yolks of two raw eggs, salt, cayenne, and a very little chopped parsley, and two tablespoonfuls of bread-crumbs; roll the mixture into small balls or cakes; dip in egg batter, roll in cracker-crumbs, and fry to a delicate brown. They may be served plain or with tomato sauce.

Crabs, Deviled.—Pick out the meat of four dozen boiled hard-shell crabs, put it into a42 bowl, and add a half-pint of mayonnaise. Mix carefully with your hand; wash a dozen of the shells, put a little of the mixture into each; grate a loaf of dry bread, season a pint of it with salt and pepper, sprinkle it over the crabs evenly; make twelve little balls of butter about the size of hickory-nuts; put one on top of each crab, and bake in a quick oven.

SCALLOPS.

The scallop-shell is familiar to even the children who have visited the seashore, and the novice wonders why so small a tidbit should require so large a shell. The edible part of the scallop is only the powerful central muscle by which the mollusk opens and closes its shell. The medium-sized scallops are the best. The very large and very white variety are more than likely to have been inflated and bleached by the aid of saleratus.

Scallop-shells were extensively used in ancient cookery, and gave to various dishes the prefix “scalloped.”

Scallop Broth.—The peculiar flavor of scallops is quite attractive to the convalescent, and a broth made from them is nourishing; but43 care should be exercised in selecting the shell-fish. To improve their appearance, shippers add quantities of saleratus to the scallops, which has the effect of bleaching them, and increasing their size: this custom may please the dealers, but not consumers. Select medium-sized scallops of a natural creamy color, wash them, and cut them into small pieces. To half a pint of these, add half a pint of warm water and half a pint of milk, a “pea” of butter, and a pinch of salt; simmer for twenty minutes; strain and serve.

A pint of milk and no water may be used if the patient desires it.

Small Patties of Scallops.—Wash a pint of scallops, drain, cut them up, and scald them; then put them in just milk enough to prevent burning. Add salt and white pepper, simmer until quite tender, and thicken with half a teaspoonful of flour dissolved in cold water. Pour this mixture in small patty-shells (see recipe for oyster patties), and serve after the soup and before the fish, or as an entrée.

Fried Scallops.—Rinse a pint of scallops in cold water slightly salted, then dry them in a napkin, and dredge them slightly with flour. Fry them in pork-fat. Egg batter and crumbs are not recommended.

44

Scallops en Brochette.—Drain twenty-four medium-sized scallops in a napkin. Parboil them a moment. When cool arrange them on four skewers, six on each, alternated with thin slices of bacon the size of the scallops in width. Brush over the scallops a little melted butter, and broil. When done, serve with tufts of watercresses and lemon.

Stewed Scallops.—Scald fifteen scallops, and put them into a stewpan with half a pint of boiling milk, a dash of cayenne, and a saltspoonful of salt. Just before serving, add very little table butter.

MUSSELS.

The Mussel is called the poor man’s oyster; but why the poor should have a monopoly of this very useful shellfish, the writer is at a loss to comprehend. During warm weather the spiced mussel is a treat: it may have the honor of ushering in a family dinner instead of the clam, and at collations and suppers it should be welcome. As they may be purchased at from eighteen to twenty-five cents per quart, it is a waste of time to pickle them at home, unless living at the seashore.

45

THE LOBSTER.

Remarks on the Lobster.—It takes a lobster about five years to arrive at maturity, or over ten inches in length. The spawning season depends upon the temperature of the water. Along the Sound, the season begins in June, and ends in September.

The Season for Lobster.—Lobsters are at their best before the spawning season. They are then filled with roe, or coral as the red spawn is called by some. This is a great delicacy, and is highly esteemed by epicures. After the spawning season, which is late in the summer, they are in very poor condition, and should not be offered for sale until cool weather.

The green part in the body of the lobster is called the tom-alley by New-England folks. It is excellent eating.

The external spawn adhering to the tail of the female lobster, when not highly developed, is edible, and is used in garnishing and making lobster butter, paste, and cardinal-fish sauces.

It is a curious fact, that the lobster changes or re-makes a shell from eight to ten times the first year, five to seven the second, three to four the third, and from two to three the fourth46 year. So says Professor G. O. Sars of Norway, about the European lobster, whose habits agree more or less closely with those of the American lobster.

Soft-shell Lobster not edible.—After the fifth year the change of shell is only annual. A soft-shell or shedder lobster, unlike the soft-shell crab, is not edible, and if eaten is likely to produce ill effects. In a soft condition the lobster itself is sick, and is therefore unfit for food.

Selecting Lobsters.—Always select a firm shell, of a deep dark-green color. Light-colored, thin-shelled lobsters are likely to be lean and poor. When plunged into the boiling water, the joints contract, and the tail draws under, provided the lobster was alive at the time of immersion. If dead when boiled, the tendons are relaxed, the claws hang loosely, the tail will not possess a spring-like tenacity when straightened out. Select the former, and reject the latter.

Value of the Lobster as Food.—According to Professor Atwater of Middletown, Conn., the nutritive value of the flesh of the lobster, compared with beef as a standard and reckoned at 100, is 61 to 97. Forty per cent of the lobster is edible, the remainder is shell and waste.

47

Buckland says, “That phosphorus exists in large quantities, may be easily proved. A lobster in hot weather, when it ceases to be fresh, assumes a highly phosphorescent appearance when seen in the dark, equal if not superior to that of a glow-worm or luminous centipede. This light increases by friction.... The presence of phosphorus in the lobster is of great importance to the consumers of these sea luxuries. There is no substance which conveys phosphorus so readily into the human system in an agreeable form, and which the system so readily and quickly assimilates, as the flesh of crabs and lobsters.”

Broiled Lobster.—Select alive and active lobster not less than ten and a half inches long. (If below this measurement, the dealer should be arrested for breaking the law which protects the lobster.) Split it in two lengthwise, which instantly kills it. Remove the entrail through the fleshy part of the tail, and the crop or stomach near the head. This done, there are two ways of preparing it for table. One is as follows:—

Remove the flesh from the tail, and brush over it a little melted butter or olive-oil; broil it gently, but not too well done. Heat the shell, put the meat back in the shell again, add more48 butter, salt, pepper, and serve on hot plates. The body parts may be boiled, and furnish dainty pickings for a late meal.

The other way is that which is generally adopted by restaurants. Brush a little butter over the entire half of the green lobster; broil the shell side thoroughly first, then turn, and broil the other. Serve with maitre-d’hôtel sauce.

A lobster that has once been boiled and then broiled is so thoroughly over-cooked as to be very indigestible.

Lobster Croquettes, with Pease.—Boil one-half pint of milk, thicken it with a tablespoonful of flour, and let it become cold. Mince the meat of a one-pound can of lobster, or one pound of fresh lobster; when very fine, add a saltspoonful of salt and half a saltspoonful of white pepper. Moisten the lobster mince with the thickened milk, and work the whole to a paste; add very little bread-crumb if too thin; let it become amalgamated over the range, and place in the ice-box until wanted; then shape it into neat rolls or cones; dip them in egg and crumbs, and fry in plenty of hot fat. Arrange the forms neatly on a dish, put round them a border of pease, and serve.

Lobsters en Brochette.—Instead of boiling the lobster-tails, cut them in pieces, and49 arrange these on small skewers, alternated with small pieces of bacon; brush melted butter over them, and either broil or bake them; serve with sauce tartare (which see on p. 84).

Deviled Lobster.—Take two live lobsters, remove the tails, split them in two, and make several incisions in them crosswise. Mix together half a teaspoonful of salt, a saltspoonful each of dry mustard and curry, and half a saltspoonful of white pepper, add a tablespoonful of oil; mix, spread it over the lobsters, and broil them. When done, return to the shells, which should have been kept hot for the purpose; pour a little melted butter over them, and serve.

Stewed Lobster, à la Créole.—Remove the tail part of the meat from three green lobsters; split them in two lengthwise; remove the thread-like intestine. Melt an ounce of butter in a deep frying-pan; add the lobster; toss it for a few minutes in the butter; add salt and pepper and half a pint of hot water; cover, and simmer three-quarters of an hour; drain, and reduce the water one-half by rapid boiling. Put in a saucepan half an ounce of butter and a tablespoonful of minced onion; fry brown, and add three peeled and sliced tomatoes, one sweet pepper, four okra pods cut small, and half a teaspoonful of salt. Allow these to cook fifteen50 minutes, add the broth, and simmer until reduced to a pulp; rub through a sieve; put this puree on a hot dish, place the lobster on top, add a little lemon-juice, and serve.

Curry of Lobster.—Remove the meat from two boiled lobsters, cut it into neat pieces; take all green fat and coral, and set them aside; mix the green fat with a heaping spoonful of curry-powder. Squeeze out the juice of three limes, and add to it half a teaspoonful of powdered sugar. Put into a frying-pan an ounce of butter; when creamed add a teaspoonful of minced onion browned a little; now add the mixed curry-powder; dissolve a teaspoonful of rice-flour in cold water, add this to a pint of hot water or soup-stock, simmer until thick; now add the lobster, and simmer twenty minutes longer. Wash and dry the coral, separate it. Prepare a border of rice on a dish, and over it sprinkle the coral and eggs (if any); pour the curry in the centre, and serve.

Lobster Salad.—Take two live hen (female) lobsters; boil them thirty minutes; drain. When cold, break them apart; crack the claws, and if the tail-fins are covered with eggs remove them carefully. Take out the sand-pouch found near the head; split the fleshy part of the tail in two lengthwise, remove the small long entrail51 found therein. Adhering to the body-shell may be found a layer of creamy fat; save this, and also the green fat in the body of the lobster (called tom-alley by New-Englanders), and the coral. If celery is used, tear the lobster into shreds with forks; if lettuce, cut the lobster into half-inch pieces. Place the salad herb in a bowl, add the lobster and the fat, and pour over it a rich mayonnaise; garnish with the claws and heads, tufts of green, hard-boiled eggs, etc. The lobster eggs may be separated, and sprinkled over the mayonnaise. The coral is used for coloring mayonnaise, and also butter, which is then used in decorating salmon and other dark fish used in salads.

THE OYSTER CRAB.

The little crab found in the oyster is not, as commonly supposed by two-thirds of the oyster-eating community to be, the young of the blue crab; but it is a distinct species. It is a messmate of and caterer to the wants of the oyster, being therefore a benefit instead of a detriment to the latter. In return for the oyster’s kindness in protecting it against its enemies, the little crab catches and crushes food which in its en52tire state could not be taken by the oyster. A singular thing in connection with them is, that all found inside of the oyster are females. The male of the same variety is found in the neighborhood, but its shell is firm.

Oyster-crabs are found at the grocer’s, put up in half-pint bottles, which retail from 60 to 75 cents each. At the markets they are sold at $2.50 per quart.

To Serve Oyster Crabs.—Put on a small saucer a crisp but dry leaf of lettuce, and put in the centre of each leaf a scant tablespoonful of the oyster crabs. Add a scant teaspoonful of mayonnaise to each, and serve as a whet before a ladies’ collation, or at an afternoon luncheon.

Oyster-Crab Omelet.—This is a most tempting dish. Roll an ounce of butter into little balls, dredge these with flour, put them in a pan, and when they begin to melt whisk them; do not let it brown; add a gill of hot water, and simmer until thick; now add half a pint of oyster crabs, salt, and a pinch of cayenne. Beat up four eggs thoroughly, and make them into an omelet; just before folding, add the crabs, and serve.

Oyster-Crab Sauce.—Add a tablespoonful of oyster-crabs to half a pint of drawn53 butter, sauce hollandaise, or in fact any white or cream fish-sauce, and serve with boiled fish.

ACKNOWLEDGMENT.

The writer is deeply indebted to Prof. George Brown Goode’s compilation and reports of the “Fishery Industries of the United States,” for much of the natural history of fish and shell embodied in this work.

SHRIMPS.

The common shrimp, which is caught in immense quantities along our coast all summer, and used for bait, is a dainty which summer residents should not neglect. When a shrimp salad is wanted, however, the servant is sent to the nearest grocer for a can of Southern shrimp, and the delicious morsel at their very door is used to feed the fishes. The trouble seems to be, that servants dislike the trouble of picking them out of their transparent shells.

Summer hotels would buy the native shrimp if fishermen would take the trouble of offering them. No more appetizing or appropriate garnish for lobster salads and for portions of boiled fish54 can be imagined than the little home shrimp properly boiled. A plunge into the hot water is about all the cooking they need.

Market Price of Shrimps.—Cooked and shelled shrimps are to be had in our markets during warm weather, for from thirty to fifty cents per quart. Canned shrimps retail for from thirty to forty cents per can, and $3.50 per dozen. Rinse them in fresh water before using them.

Shrimp Omelet.—Toss half a pint of canned or fresh shrimps in a little hot butter for a moment; add a little salt and pepper and a tablespoonful of tomato sauce. Prepare the omelet, and just before folding add the shrimps, and serve.

Shrimp Sauce.—Cut up the shrimps into halves, add them to a creamy fish sauce of any kind; mix and serve.

PRAWNS.

Scientifically there is a difference between the prawn and the shrimp; but it need not be considered by the housewife, except that the prawn, that comes to this market from the South already cooked and shelled, is larger than the shrimp, and a little stronger flavored.

55

The shrimps and prawns are found in salt and brackish water, while the crayfish are inhabitants of fresh water.

Curry of Prawns.—Prawns are at their best served as a curry. Boil two quarts of live prawns thirty minutes, drain when slightly cooled, break away the shells, and set them aside. Put two ounces of butter in a frying-pan; when very hot add a clove of garlic and one sliced apple; brown slightly, remove the garlic, and add a dessertspoonful of curry-powder mixed with a gill of water; stir, and add half a pint of soup-stock and half a teaspoonful of flour; now add the prawns, and the juice of half a lemon in which a lump of sugar has been dissolved. Pour out on a hot dish, and send to table with rice croquettes.

Prawns, Deviled, en Coquille.—Simmer a quart of prawns fifteen minutes in water flavored with a little sharp vinegar; drain, and cut them very fine. Add two ounces of butter, a gill of water, salt and pepper, the yolks of two eggs, and bread-crumbs to absorb the moisture. Mix to a paste. Partly fill the shells, cover with crumbs, add a small pat of butter to each, and bake to a delicate brown.

Prawns, Sauté, à la Marengo.—Wash one pint of “shelled” prawns, simmer them56 twenty minutes, drain, and toss them a moment in a little hot olive-oil; remove them, add a sprig of parsley, half a dozen button mushrooms, a gill of hot water, salt and pepper, and thicken with a little flour. Put the prawns on a dish, pour the sauce over them, garnish with fried eggs and slices of tomatoes fried.

Prawn Salad.—Take one quart of prawns and one quart and a pint of cut celery; put the celery in a bowl; add the prawns; garnish neatly, and serve with a mayonnaise.

CRAYFISH.

The crayfish are inhabitants of fresh-water streams; and they bear a striking resemblance to the lobster in appearance, spawning habits, shedding their shell, etc. Their season begins early in the spring, and lasts until cold weather. During a bountiful supply of these delicious shell-fish, large quantities are packed away in ice-houses for winter use, when there is a big demand for them from caterers who use them as garnishment, and for salads and sauces. They cost from three to four dollars per hundred in the New-York markets. Those that come from Milwaukee are highly esteemed; and, as57 they are already cooked, they may be used at luncheon, and on fast-days as salads. A crayfish salad is an enjoyable dish.

Crayfish Omelet.—Rinse half a pint of crayfish tails in salted water, and drain them; then split each tail in two lengthwise, and remove the thread-like intestine found therein. Toss them about a moment in a little butter and tablespoonful of broth or gravy; season with a dash of cayenne. Make a four-egg omelet, and just before folding add the crayfish.

SALMON.

Salmon Steak.—Put into fast boiling water, salted, a slice of fresh salmon, and boil for five minutes quite rapidly; then set on back of the range where it will simmer for fifteen minutes longer. Drain, and place it on a napkin surrounded with a border of parsley. On the two ends of the platter place slices of lemon. Serve with a sauce in a sauce-boat. Drawn butter with a few prawns or shrimps cut up in it is a nice sauce for salmon.

Canned Salmon.—The canning of salmon at the source of supply has been of lasting benefit to mankind, for we are now able to pro58cure a pound of salmon in any quarter of the globe for a reasonable sum. Canned salmon has one advantage over the fresh fish: it does not deteriorate, and lose its flavor. Those who have tried it say they do not get surfeited with canned salmon, although many of the same individuals dislike the fresh salmon owing to its richness, and on this account rarely eat it.

Salmon Patties.—This is a very nice way of serving salmon at luncheon. Open a pound can of salmon, drain, add to the small amount of salmon liquid sufficient water to make a gill, season it with salt and pepper, and, if on hand, add a little anchovy paste. Beat up the yolks of two eggs with half a teaspoonful of flour dissolved in a little cold water or milk: add the gill of water, place it on the range to become hot and thick, whisking it meanwhile; break the salmon into pieces, and add to the sauce. When quite hot, fill the patty shells with it, and serve. A very rich sauce may be made by the addition of butter and cream.

The patty shells are made as follows: Roll out some very light puff-paste, half an inch thick; stamp it in rounds with a three-inch cutter, press a small cutter in the middle of each round to the depth of quarter of an inch; put the rounds on a buttered tin, brush a little beaten egg over59 them, and bake in a quick oven. When done, remove the centre, scoop out a little of the inside, and the shells are ready for the mixture.

Salmon Surprise.—Boil two quarts of potatoes with their jackets on. When done, peel and mash them with butter and warm milk. Arrange a border of potatoes on a flat, oval dish. In the centre of this put a pound of canned or cold salmon separated into neat-sized pieces, salt, pepper, a very little mace, and a teaspoonful of chopped parsley; cover the salmon with a layer of raw oysters; add a little oyster-liquor, cover the oysters with a thin smooth layer of mashed potato, and brush the beaten yolk of egg over all. Then make a small hole in the centre, and place the dish in an oven hot enough to brown the outside quickly.

Salmon à la Créole.—Scald and put three large tomatoes to simmer in very little water, until tender: chop up very fine a sweet Spanish pepper and quarter of an onion; fry these in a little bacon fat; add the tomato, salt, and little white pepper. Simmer until reduced to a pulp. Open a pound can of salmon; set the can in a saucepan half full of hot water, turn the salmon out on a dish. When it is quite hot, pour the pulp over it, and serve. Canned tomatoes may be used instead of fresh tomatoes.

60

Salmon Pie.—Cut up four boiled potatoes into neat pieces; cut half a pound of boiled salt pork into dice; divide a pound of canned salmon into symmetrical pieces; roll out quarter of a pound of puff-paste, cut it into squares, and roll each of these into a little ball. Arrange these ingredients alternately in a deep yellow dish, season with salt and pepper, add hot water or gravy to prevent burning, cover the top with paste, make a hole in the centre, and bake in a moderate oven.

Salmon in Jelly.—Take one gallon of clear soup, and boil it down to a quart. Soak a teaspoonful of gelatine in cold water, and add to the reduced soup to make sure that it will be stiff when cold.

Take a two-quart tin mould, set it on ice, and pour enough of the liquid in it to cover the bottom. Let this become firm. Cut into slices, and then into diamonds, boiled beets, white turnips, and cold boiled tongue; dip each into the liquid, and place them in the mould in a very neat and artistic manner; when they become firm, spread over them a layer an inch thick, of cream-mashed potato; now add a pound of canned salmon, and pour round the edges and on top the remainder of the reduced soup, and set the mould in a very cold place to61 become firm. When wanted, dip the mould into hot water quickly, and turn it out. This is an excellent dish for collations, wedding breakfasts, etc. The potato must be made rich with butter and milk, and beaten to a light consistency before being placed in the mould. Any other kind of cold fish will answer quite as well as salmon for this and other dishes herein mentioned.

Salmon Omelet.—Separate half a pound of canned salmon into flakes, season with salt and pepper, a little lemon-juice, and add a little of the liquid; heat it a little, whip up the eggs for an omelet, prepare it as usual, and just before completing the fold add the salmon; then turn it out on a hot dish.

Salmon, German Style.—Boil two quarts of sauerkraut; drain it, and pile it on a hot dish; have ready a pound of canned salmon hot; make a hole in the centre of the kraut, insert the fish, simmer and season the salmon liquid, pour it over the dish, and serve.

Salmon à l’Italienne.—Boil half a pound of macaroni in water slightly salted; drain. Heat a can of salmon in hot water; turn it out on a dish; arrange the macaroni round it; pour over the macaroni the contents of a pound can of tomato-pulp (hot), sprinkle over this a little grated Parmesan cheese, and serve.

62

Salmon à la Hollandaise.—Heat a pound of canned salmon in the original can; turn it out on a hot dish, garnish neatly, and pour over it the following sauce: Cream two ounces of butter, whisk into it the yolks of two beaten eggs, add a little salt and white pepper, and half a teaspoonful of strong vinegar; put the pan in a larger one containing hot water, whisk it until it thickens, and just before serving add a little lemon-juice.

Salmon, Hunter’s Style.—One of the best dishes I have ever eaten while hunting was prepared as follows: Take three one-pound cans of salmon (save the liquid), and divide into neat pieces; make a dough as for milk biscuits: divide half of it into little balls; take one box of sardines; put a layer of sliced bacon in the bottom of a gallon crock; add a layer of salmon, a few dough balls, two sardines, salt, cayenne. Continue arranging in alternate layers until the ingredients are all used; add a wineglassful of vinegar to the salmon liquid, and if there is not enough add a little water; cover the top with the remainder of the dough, and tie one or two thicknesses of white cloth over all. Dig a hole deep enough to be lined with mud or stones and to receive the crock; build a fire in and over it (the smoke will keep off the63 mosquitoes). When reduced to coals, scoop out the ashes and coals from the hole, cover the cloth with mud, set the crock in the hole, and cover up with the hot ashes; let it remain three hours, and a more satisfactory dish cannot be imagined.

Bouillabaisse.—This celebrated dish was immortalized by Thackeray. Put into a frying-pan a gill of olive-oil, a clove of garlic minced, a tablespoonful of chopped onion, two cloves, six peppercorns; when slightly brown, add one pound of canned salmon and the salmon liquid in the can; add a little salt, a bit of bay leaf, three slices of lemon, a pint of tomato pulp, a pinch of curry-powder or saffron, a gill of Rhine wine, with water enough to cover the fish: simmer twenty minutes. Line a deep dish with toast, remove from the pan all seasoning in sight, pour the contents of the pan on the toast, and serve.

CODFISH.

Boiled Codfish, Oyster Sauce.—The only thing that can be urged against this most excellent fish is its homely name. Were it not so cheap, its good qualities would rapidly find64 favor at all gastronomic entertainments where palate-pleasing dishes are appreciated. Put the fish into boiling water, slightly salted; add a few whole cloves and peppers, and a bit of lemon-peel; pull gently on the fins, and when they come out easily the fish is done. Arrange neatly on a folded napkin, garnish, and serve with oyster sauce. Take six oysters to every pound of fish, and scald them in a half-pint of hot oyster liquor; take out the oysters, and add to the liquor, salt, pepper, a bit of mace, and an ounce of butter; whip into it a gill of milk, containing half of a teaspoonful of flour. Simmer a moment; add the oysters, and send to table in a sauce-boat.

A four-pound fish should cook in about forty minutes.

Codfish Tongues.—Wash four codfish tongues thoroughly in cold water; put them on the range in hot water, slightly salted, and boil thirty minutes; drain; arrange neatly on a folded napkin placed upon a hot dish; garnish with parsley and slices of lemon, and send to table with cream sauce.

Codfish Steak.—Select a medium-sized fresh codfish, cut it in steaks crosswise of the fish about an inch and a half thick; sprinkle a little salt over them, and let them stand two65 hours. Cut into dice a pound of salt fat pork, fry out all the fat from them, and remove the crisp bits of pork; put the codfish steaks in a pan of corn-meal, dredge them with it, and, when the pork-fat is smoking hot, fry the steaks in it to a dark brown color on both sides. Squeeze over them a little lemon-juice, add a dash of freshly ground pepper, and serve with hot, old-fashioned, well buttered johnny-cake.

New-England Codfish Balls.—Shred the codfish the night before, and soak it over night; drain quite dry on towel next day. Mash fine one pound of hot boiled potatoes. Take an equal amount of codfish, and divide it very fine. Mix both together, and add the beaten yolks of two eggs, two ounces of melted butter, and a saltspoonful of white pepper. Now beat the mixture until it is very light, for upon this process depends the success or failure of the dish. In shaping them together, do not press them any more than is absolutely necessary. Most cooks press them into cakes so hard that it is next to an impossibility to eat them. Dredge them lightly with a little flour, and fry them like doughnuts in smoking hot fat. When properly prepared and cooked they should fairly melt in the mouth, which they will do if thoroughly beaten and lightly handled.

66

Baked Cod.—When purchasing a four-pound cod, ask your fish-dealer to send you three “codfish-heads;” and as soon as the basket comes into the house, rub a little salt on the fish, chop the heads into six pieces each, and sprinkle a little salt over them. Place them in the centre of the baking-pan (to be used as supports for the fish), with a gill of water. Set the pan in the oven while you prepare the cod.

Soak in cold water until soft a sufficiency of bread to fill the fish; drain off the water, and pound the bread to a paste; mix with it two tablepoonsfuls of melted butter, two raw eggs, a tablespoonful of Worcestershire sauce, with salt and pepper to taste. Put this stuffing inside the fish, and sew it up; place the cod in the pan with two or three pieces of butter on the upper side of the fish, and baste it frequently; when it is cooked, lay the fish on a hot platter, and garnish with fried oysters if convenient. Add a tablespoonful of brown flour to the pan, a wineglass of claret; mix, and strain the gravy into a sauce-boat. Time to cook, one hour.

Salt Codfish with Cream.—Soak one pound and a half of salt codfish over night. Next morning set the fish to simmer for about two hours; drain off the water, and strip the fish into shreds; place it in a saucepan with a quart67 of milk and two ounces of butter; mix a tablespoonful of flour with two tablespoonfuls of cold milk, and add to the fish. Let the whole come to a boil; remove the dish from the fire, beat up one egg to a froth, add it to the fish, stir, and serve.

Scrod.—Small codfish no larger than our tomcod are called scrod in Eastern Massachusetts. After they have been corned over night, they are broiled and fried.

BROOK TROUT.

Cultivated trout may be purchased at from sixty to seventy-five cents per pound, and wild trout from twenty-five to thirty-five cents per pound, after April first. There are many house-keepers who will not purchase the latter, thinking that as they are cheaper, they cannot be so good as the more expensive trout. Cultivated trout are only trout in name and outside appearance, and no more compare in flavor with the wild trout than chalk does with cheese. They are fattened (not allowed to feed naturally) on cheap animal food that destroys all trout flavor; and they live in artificial streams or ponds, acquiring a peculiar swampy flavor which is decidedly objectionable.

68

The wild trout lives in clear running streams, fed from never-ending springs; here he finds a beautiful supply of food furnished by nature’s generous hand, instead of the refuse of the butcher furnished to his more aristocratic brother. Besides being superior in every way, the wild trout is always cheaper.

Shippers of trout often pack their speckled beauties in moss, which injures their flavor materially; and the housekeeper is obliged to let them stand in cold water, slightly salted, to extract the flavor of the moss. This is a good plan to follow, by the way, when the trout are frozen, as nearly all wild trout are in the early spring.

Brook Trout, Sportsman Style.—Clean and rinse a quarter-of-a-pound trout in cold spring water; dry it in a towel. Cut half a pound of salt pork into small pieces; put these into a thoroughly clean frying-pan; fry out the clear fat, and remove the small pieces of pork. Rub a little fine table-salt in the inside of the fish, and when the pork-fat is smoking hot, add the fish to it; turn it three times before it is done. When nicely browned, serve it on a hot dish, and send it to the table without adding condiments of any kind. Should you be able to procure fresh butter, a little may be put on the69 fish before it is served, but it must be of the very best quality.

Broiled Trout.—The foregoing is a recipe for cooking trout immediately after catching them. After they are brought to our city markets from distant mountain streams, however, they are most toothsome when broiled over a declining fire, and require a seasoning of salt, pepper, and a little lemon-juice mixed with the sweetest of sweet butter. Serve with hot plates.

Brook Trout, Baked.—Trout weighing a pound or over are best when served baked, though many sportsmen will not listen to this proposition. The outside of a large trout is almost ruined in broiling before the centre of the fish is cooked. Do not split the fish down the back. Take half a pint of fine grated bread-crumbs, and soak them in a little milk; squeeze out the milk; add two ounces of table butter, a saltspoonful of salt, half a saltspoonful of white pepper, the juice of a quarter of a lemon, and the slightest sprig of thyme; add the yolk of one raw egg; mix; open the trout just enough to clean it properly; remove the gills (leave the heads on), fill the cavity with the stuffing, and sew it up carefully. Put the fish in a tin, on top of it place small bits of butter previously rolled in flour, place it in a good oven, and bake with70 the back toward the hottest part of the oven. The length of time it will take to cook properly is from twenty to thirty minutes, very often a little longer, for much depends on the temperature of the oven.

Brook Trout, Boiled.—To boil trout seems an outrage; but when one receives a large quantity of them, and there is danger of their spoiling if not immediately used, put four small trout properly cleaned into a saucepan, cover them with claret, add a slice of lemon, two cloves, four whole peppers, the least bit of mace, and a heaping saltspoonful of salt. Simmer slowly three-quarters of an hour; remove the saucepan from the range, and when cold take out the fish, put them in a dish, and pour the boiled wine over them. Serve at luncheon or collations.

The head, tail, and fins of trout should not be removed before cooking.

MISCELLANEOUS.

Catfish, Fried.—Catfish and waffles is a combination dear to the hearts of Philadelphians, and the road-houses near that city are celebrated for cooking them. Select the fish already cleaned,71 as it is a troublesome job to clean them, and pick out the white instead of the red catfish; rub a little salt along the backbone on the inside, and let the fish stand over night. Next day dredge them with corn-meal or flour, and fry in a little fat; sprinkle salt and pepper over them before serving.

The Tenderloin Trout.—Large catfish are caught in Southern rivers; and while they are fair eating, they are not popular with the whites in the vicinity of New Orleans. The restaurant people, however, cut the fish into pieces an inch square and about four inches long; these are dipped in egg, rolled in crumbs, and fried and served as tenderloin trout.

Fricasseed Eels.—Cut up three pounds of eels into pieces of three inches in length; put them into a stewpan, and cover them with Rhine wine (or two-thirds water and one-third vinegar); add fifteen oysters, two pieces of lemon, a bouquet of herbs, one onion quartered, six cloves, three stalks celery, a pinch of cayenne, pepper and salt to taste. Stew the eels one hour; remove them from the dish; strain the liquor. Put it back into the stewpan with a gill of cream and an ounce of butter rolled in flour; simmer gently a few minutes, pour over the fish, and serve.

72

Eel Patties.—Take three medium-sized eels, and cut them up into inch pieces. Put them in a stewpan, add salt, and cover them with cold water. When the water comes to a boil, take them off the fire, wash them in cold water, scrape off any fat that may adhere, return them to the stewpan with just enough hot water to cover them, and add a blade of mace, a bay leaf, a few whole peppers, a few sprigs of parsley, and one lemon cut into slices. Stew gently until the fish will separate from the bone; remove the fish from the broth, pick it into small pieces, and set them aside; reduce the broth a little, strain, and thicken with flour and butter. Return the fish to the broth, simmer a moment, fill your patties, and serve; make patty-shells as directed for oyster patties.

Stewed Eels, Hoboken Turtle Club Style.—Cut into three-inch pieces two pounds of medium-sized cleaned eels. Rub the inside of each piece with salt. Let stand half an hour, then parboil them. Boil an onion in a quart of milk, and remove the onion. Drain the eels from the water, and add them to the milk. Season with half a teaspoonful of chopped parsley, salt and pepper, and the slightest suspicion of mace. Simmer until the flesh falls from the bones.

Fried eels should be slightly salted before73 cooking them. Do not cover them with batter, but dredge them with just flour enough to absorb all moisture, then cover them with boiling fat, as for doughnut cooking. Many New England families use corn-meal to dredge them with instead of flour.

Eels en matelotte, or sailor fashion, are appreciated by many. Cut them into three-inch pieces, and salt them. Fry an onion brown in a little dripping; add half a pint of broth to the brown onion, part of a bay leaf, six broken peppercorns, four whole cloves, and a gill of claret. Add the eels to this, and simmer until thoroughly cooked. Remove the eels, put them on a hot dish, add a teaspoonful of browned flour to the sauce, strain, and pour over the eels.

Pan Bass, Anchovy Butter.—During February, March, and the first part of April, there may be found in market a variety of bass which much resembles the Oswego bass. They come from the Carolinas and Virginia, and are excellent eating. Let them stand an hour in salt water, then drain and wipe dry, and fry them in tried-out salt-pork fat. Serve them with a butter made as follows: Mix together a teaspoonful of anchovy paste with a tablespoonful of sweet butter, and, if not objected to, add a few blades of chopped chives.

74

The chive has the flavor peculiar to the onion family, but in a mild form. It is cultivated by truck gardeners, and may be found on the New York vegetable stands as early as January. The retail price at the first of the season is ten cents a tuft; as it becomes more plentiful, it is offered at five cents.

Placed in the kitchen, it grows luxuriantly,—in fact, it grows faster than it can be used by a small family. This very useful herb should be in the kitchen window of every home where soups and salads are rightly appreciated.

The chive grows wild in nearly all of the Middle and Eastern States, and the first green spot seen in our parks is more than likely to be chives. Cows eat it, and their milk has a slight garlic flavor. The garlic flavor in milk is decidedly objectionable; yet the early Dutch settlers planted the chives in the pastures for the cows to eat, thereby imparting to the milk this peculiar flavor.

Fillet of Flounder, Tartar Sauce.—Cut the flesh from the bone lengthwise, and then cut each piece into strips an inch wide. Dip them in beaten egg. Roll them in cracker-crumbs, and fry in hot fat enough to cover them. This dish appears on our French bills-of-fare as filet de sole. Serve with sauce tartare.

75

Fried Tomcods.—These delicate, sweet-flavored pan-fish are called frost-fish by dealers, but the fishermen along the Hudson call them “Tommies.” Whatever name they are known by, they are delicious morsels when fresh caught. Clean them without removing the heads, dry them in a napkin, and salt their insides, dredge them with a little flour, and fry them crisp in hot smoking fat. Put the clean fish into a baking-tin. Over each fish place a thin slice of bacon, add salt and pepper, and bake them twenty minutes in a hot oven.

Broiled Salt Codfish.—Cut half of a small codfish into medium-sized square pieces; split them in two, and soak them over night in cold water. Drain, and dry them in a napkin, next morning. Rub a little butter over each piece, and broil them. Place them on a hot platter, and pour a little melted butter over them.

Drawn butter is sometimes served with this dish. It should be very smooth looking, and have a starchy appearance. Divide three ounces of butter into little balls. Dredge them with flour. Put one-fourth of them into a saucepan, and when they begin to melt, whisk to a smooth consistency. Now add one more of the floured balls, and whisk thoroughly until incorporated76 with the first. Repeat this process until all are used. When smooth and thick, stir in a teaspoonful of lemon-juice, and, if liked, a little chopped parsley.

Broiled Salt Mackerel.—“I like salt mackerel, but it does not agree with me,” is a remark often heard in nearly all classes of society. Many imagine they can eat cured fish with the same degree of recklessness and lack of regard for dietetic laws which they often show in eating more digestible food. They soon discover, however, that something is radically wrong; just where the blame rests, is a matter they settle to their own satisfaction by declaring that salt mackerel was not intended for civilized people, because they are unable to eat it without experiencing disagreeable after-effects.

Salt mackerel is really wholesome food, but, like all cured food, is not so digestible as when fresh: it is therefore necessary to restore it as near as possible to its original freshness. This is done by a thorough soaking in a liberal quantity of fresh water. There is no danger of the fish becoming too fresh; if it does, it is an easy matter to add fresh salt, which is much more acceptable than condensed brine.

In selecting salt mackerel, examine them carefully. If rusty in appearance reject them,77 “for rust in fish, if I am not mistaken, is as bad as rust in steel or rust in bacon.” Large fish are likely to be poor and coarse; a medium-sized or No. 2 is the most profitable provided the white or under part of the fish is fat. After soaking thoroughly, rub a little melted butter or olive-oil over them, and broil not too close to the fire; do not cook them enough to dry up all moisture, as they would then be unpalatable. After broiling, plunge them into boiling water for a moment to swell them,—this treatment gives the fish the appearance of being fat,—place on a hot plate, add a little melted butter, a dash of pepper, and finally the juice of half a lemon.

To avoid the unpleasantness referred to, drink all liquids first, before eating a mouthful of the fish; masticate the food thoroughly and slowly, and the result will be surprising. Those who eat salt fish alternated with mouthfuls of liquid must expect the oily particles to rise up, and create a gastronomic disturbance.

Fried Porgies with Salt Pork.—The much-abused porgy is one of the sweetest of pan-fish. Select four good-sized porgies, and clean them, but do not remove the heads. Cut into small dice a quarter of a pound of fat salt pork, fry out the fat, and when it is very hot fry the fish in it. While they are cooking, broil four78 small thin slices of the pork, and serve by placing them on top of the fish. Pork gives a more delicate flavor to the fish than bacon.

Fish Curries.—Cold boiled or baked fish is simply a luxury when warmed up in a delicious curry sauce. This dish may be served at breakfast or luncheon. Americans are fast learning the usefulness of curry-powders; as yet they demand a mild form of curry, and a little flour is added to the sauce to tone down the pungency of the curry.

A Plain Fish Curry.—Fry an onion quite brown in a little butter or oil, add a teaspoonful of curry-powder and half a pint of hot water. Dissolve a teaspoonful of flour in a little cold water; when free from lumps add it to the sauce, then strain; divide the cold fish into flakes, and warm it up in the sauce.

Curry of Scallops.—Wash a quart of scallops in cold water, drain, put them in a saucepan, and let them simmer gently one hour. Blanch two ounces of sweet almonds, remove husks, and fry a delicate brown; drain from the hot butter, and pound to a paste with a clove of garlic, the grated rind of a lemon. Mix two teaspoonfuls of curry, a little sauce, and an ounce of butter, put it in the frying-pan, and add gradually one half-pint of the scallop broth and the79 almond paste. Now add a pint of hot milk; simmer until the liquid is reduced one-third, add the scallops, and serve.

Curry of Crayfish.—These may be purchased by the quart at all seasons. They are already boiled. Prepare the curry sauce as above described, add the crayfish, and serve with rice; over all squeeze the juice of a sweet orange.

Curry of Eels, with Rice.—Cut into two-inch pieces one medium-sized eel or two small ones; put them in a saucepan, and cover with boiling water; add a little salt, a piece of lemon-peel, and a tablespoonful of vinegar; boil slowly one hour, and drain. Cut up a small onion, and fry it brown in a little butter; add a pint of the water in which the fish was boiled, and a teaspoonful of walnut catsup. Mix together a teaspoonful of flour with a gill of cold water, rub it smooth, and add a teaspoonful of dry curry-powder. Mix, and add it to the pan, strain, and return to the pan; then add the eels; simmer fifteen minutes, and serve surrounded by a border of boiled rice.

Curry of Shad Roe.—Fry half an onion very brown in a heaping teaspoonful of dripping; add a teaspoonful of curry-powder, and a few moments later add a gill of hot water; simmer80 five minutes, and add a teaspoonful of flour dissolved in a little water. When it begins to thicken, strain. While preparing the sauce, boil two roes in water well salted. When done, place them on a hot platter, and pour the sauce over them.

Curry of Frogs’ Legs.—This is an excellent dish. Wash one pound of frogs’ legs in cold water; brown one-fourth of an onion in oil or butter; add a teaspoonful of curry and a pint of hot water; pour this in a saucepan, and add the frogs; simmer an hour and a half, and drain. Mix a teaspoonful each of rice-flour and curry to a paste, with the broth; add salt to taste, and half a pint of milk. Place on the range, and when hot add the frogs. Blanch two dozen sweet almonds; rub off the skins, split them, and toss them about in hot butter; season with pepper and salt; when done squeeze a little lemon-juice over them, and send to table on separate dish with the curry.

Broiled Weakfish.—When freshly caught, this is an excellent fish and well flavored; but it loses its flavor when kept on ice more than a day, and the flesh becomes soft and spongy. In color the weakfish is of a bluish-gray, with faint speckled back and sides, belly white, the fins yellow. It is in season from May to Octo81ber, and is best-flavored in the latest two months of that time. Select a medium-sized fish for broiling; see that the flesh is firm, the eyes bright, and the gills a bright red, and free from a soft, flabby appearance. Place the well-cleaned whole fish on the table or fish-board, back towards you; make an incision close to the head, down to the bone; hold the head firmly with the left hand, and cut the fish in two lengthwise, keeping the knife close to the bone the whole length of the fish; remove the bone. (The bone and head may be boiled a few hours, seasoned, and the broth used in fast-day soups.) Cut each piece of fish in two, crosswise; rub on a little sweet oil or melted butter; broil the outer side first, then the inner side, and serve with this side upwards on the hot dish; pour over the fish well-made drawn butter (which see).

Baked Whitefish, Bordeaux Sauce.—Clean and stuff the fish. Put it in a baking-pan, and add a liberal quantity of butter, previously rolled in flour, to the fish. Put in the pan half a pint of claret, and bake for an hour. Remove the fish, and strain the gravy; add to the latter a gill more of claret, a teaspoonful of brown flour, and a pinch of cayenne, and serve with the fish.

82

Halibut, Egg Sauce.—Select a three-pound piece of white halibut, cover it with a cloth, and place it in a steamer; set the steamer over a pot of fast boiling water, and steam two hours; place it on a hot dish, surrounded with a border of parsley; and serve with egg-sauce, which is made as follows:—

Egg Sauce.—Cream an ounce of butter; add to it one tablespoonful of dry flour, a saltspoonful of salt, and half a saltspoonful of white pepper (black pepper spoils its color). Stir it briskly, and add half a pint of hot water. Divide an ounce of butter into little balls, roll them in flour, and add them one at a time; stir constantly, and care should be exercised not to allow the sauce to brown or discolor. Chop three cold hard-boiled eggs, and add them to the sauce; let it heat thoroughly, and serve in a boat.

Fried Butterfish.—These flat, slate-colored little fish are excellent when quite fresh; and as they are easily cleaned, they are recommended to house-keepers. Fry them in tried-out salt-pork fat, which gives them a very nice flavor.

Broiled Shad.—The secret of having the fish juicy, and at the same time properly cooked, is to rub a little olive-oil over it before broiling,83 and broil it over a fire free from smoke or flame. Charcoal affords the best fire. The sulphurous fumes of hard coal injure the flavor of the fish. When done, have ready a little sweet butter melted and mixed with salt, white pepper (black pepper spoils the looks of the fish), half a teaspoonful of chopped parsley to two ounces of butter, and the juice of half a lemon. Place the fish on a hot dish, pour the hot sauce over it, and serve with hot plates.

Baked Shad.—Broiling is, next to planking, the best way of cooking this excellent fish; but a baked shad is not to be despised. Prepare it as follows:—

Make a stuffing of soaked bread-crumbs, butter, pepper, and salt; place it lengthwise in a pan; roll walnuts of butter in flour, and put four to six of them on top of the fish; fill the space around the fish with inch slices of raw potato, and bake forty minutes. When done, serve potatoes and fish together.

Shad Roe à la Poulette.—Cover a pair of roes with water slightly salted; add a tablespoonful of vinegar and a slice of lemon; simmer twenty minutes, and drain; put into a saucepan an ounce of butter; when it begins to melt, whisk it, and add the juice of half a lemon.

Beat up the yolk of one egg with a gill of84 cream containing half a teaspoonful of flour rubbed free from lumps; whisk this gently into the warm butter; keep it quite warm until it thickens, but do not boil, or it will curdle. Pour it over the shad roes, strew over the top a trifle of chopped parsley, and serve.

Broiled Royans.—These delicate little fish are excellent as whet at dinner-parties, and may be served au naturel, or broiled, or served on toast. Procure them from the nearest grocer, open the can carefully to prevent breaking the fish, remove the skin, and broil them over a slow fire; arrange them on toast, squeeze a little lemon-juice over them, and serve.

Broiled Sardines.—When neatly prepared, this forms an excellent breakfast or luncheon dish.

Remove the sardines from the can without breaking them; scrape off the skin, place them between double wire broilers, and broil to a delicate brown; arrange neatly in a hot dish, squeeze a little lemon-juice over them, and serve. Orange-juice is very nice with the above dish.

Broiled Smelts, Sauce Tartare.—Thoroughly clean half a dozen smelts, split them in two, place them on a double wire broiler, and broil. Send to table with sauce tartare, which is made as follows: Chop together a few sprigs85 of parsley, six capers, one small pickle, a piece of onion as large as a bean. Add these to half a pint of mayonnaise, mix, and add a teaspoonful of French mustard, mix again, and serve.

Smelts Fried, Sauce Tartare.—Clean six small smelts, leave on the heads, dip them in beaten egg, roll them in fine cracker-dust, and fry in very hot fat. Serve with sauce tartare.

Broiled Whitefish.—The whitefish is one of the best of summer fish, but does not stand long transportation very well. See that the flesh is firm, and free from flabbiness. Cut the fish in two lengthwise, remove the backbone, divide each piece in two; brush over it a little sweet butter or olive-oil, and broil over a moderate fire for ten minutes. Place it in a hot dish, squeeze the juice of a lemon over it, add salt and pepper and a tablespoonful of melted butter. Garnish with tufts of parsley and thin slices of lemon, and serve.

Sheeps-head with Drawn Butter.—The Englishman who wrote the extraordinary statement that sheeps-head sometimes sold for “four or five pounds sterling in New York” may be pleased to learn that the price for this excellent fish is fifteen to eighteen cents per pound on an average, and that the best mode of preparing it86 for table is to boil or steam it, although broiled sheeps-head is very good.

Procure a medium-sized fish, clean it thoroughly, and rub a little salt over it; wrap it in a cloth, and put it in a steamer; place this over a pot of fast boiling water, and steam one hour; then lay it whole upon a hot side-dish, garnish with tufts of parsley and slices of lemon, and serve with drawn butter prepared as follows:—

Drawn Butter.—Take four ounces of butter, and roll it into small balls; dredge these with flour; put one-fourth of them in a saucepan, and as they begin to melt whisk them; add the remainder, one at a time, until thoroughly smooth; while stirring add a tablespoonful of lemon-juice and half a teaspoonful of chopped parsley; pour into a hot sauce-boat, and serve.

Broiled Sheeps-head.—Split the fish in two lengthwise, and remove the head and bone, brush over the fish a liberal quantity of melted butter or oil, then broil over a fire free from flame or smoke. When done, squeeze the juice of a lemon over the fish, then add salt, pepper, and a pat of the choicest table butter.