The Project Gutenberg eBook, A Guide to Cromer and its Neighbourhood, by A Visitor This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook. Title: A Guide to Cromer and its Neighbourhood Author: A Visitor Release Date: October 17, 2018 [eBook #58122] Language: English Character set encoding: ISO-646-US (US-ASCII) ***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A GUIDE TO CROMER AND ITS NEIGHBOURHOOD***
Transcribed from the 1841 Leak edition by David Price, email ccx074@pglaf.org
BY A VISITOR;
“Music is in thy billows,
Grandeur doth walk thy beach, sit on thy cliffs,
Wave in thy woods, and Nature’s smile or frown,
As cast o’er thee, is beautiful.”
PUBLISHED
AND SOLD BY
LEAK, CROMER;
JERROLD, AND STEVENSON, MATCHATT, & STEVENSON,
NORWICH;
SHALDERS, HOLT;
BLYTH, NORTH-WALSHAM; CLEMENTS, AYLSHAM;
AND SIMPKIN, MARSHALL, & CO. LONDON.
1841.
p. iiLONDON:
PRINTED BY JOSEPH RICKERBY
SHERBOURN LANE.
A Guide to Cromer and its immediate neighbourhood having been long desired, the following is presented to the Public. The Author pretends to no originality, nor offers the present as perfect in its kind. It was undertaken simply because a deficiency was expressed, and a few hours of recreation gave the opportunity of attempting to supply it. All criticism therefore, it is hoped, will be spared as to the execution of the design, and that the intention only will be regarded. Sincere thanks are returned to those individuals whose information has proved of such material assistance towards the completion of the work, with a full acknowledgment, that, if any worth be attached to it, that worth is due to them.
Cromer, August 3, 1841.
There are few places in this kingdom which combine to a greater degree the advantages of a salubrious and invigorating air, a fine and open sea, or more pleasing scenery than Cromer. The lover of nature, the student, or the invalid may frequent its shores with equal benefit, and with equal gratification. That it is not more known, or become a place of more general resort, is the result rather of circumstances, than of any deficiency in itself. True, indeed, it has not the metropolitan luxuries of Brighton, or the elegances of some of our more southern favourites to recommend it, neither does it offer any resources of gaiety for the amusement of its visitors; but nevertheless, it will never want admirers, so long as an unvitiated taste, a desire of scientific knowledge, or a wish for the renovation of health shall exist.
Cromer is situated on the most north-easterly p. 2point of the Norfolk coast, nine miles N. N. W. of North Walsham, ten miles E. N. E. of Holt, eleven miles N. by E. of Aysham, twenty-two miles north of Norwich, and one hundred and thirty N. E. by N. of London. It is built on lofty cliffs, not less than sixty feet high, nearest the town, and is sheltered on three sides by an amphitheatre of hills, partly covered with woods, and commanding a view of the wide waters of the German Ocean, nowhere to be excelled in extent or sublimity. Its population had increased between the years 1801 and 1836, from six hundred and seventy-six souls to twelve hundred and thirty-two: by the last census it appeared that it was twelve hundred and twenty-nine; but this apparent decline may be accounted for by the time of year in which it was taken, when no visitors were in the place, and the greatest part of the fishermen were absent at Yarmouth, engaged in the mackerel fishery, where their business frequently takes them. The parish now comprises only about seven hundred acres of land, mostly belonging to the Countess of Listowel, (widow of the late George Thomas Windham, Esq., of Cromer, and one of the daughters of the late Admiral Windham, of Felbrigg,) who is also the Lady of the Manor, and the owner of Cromer Hall.
For some centuries the sea has continued to make considerable encroachments on this part of p. 3the coast. Cromer itself was formerly situated at some distance from it, and formed in the reign of the Conqueror, as appears from the Doomsday Survey, a part of the lordship and parish of Shipden, a village of some importance, which, with its church, dedicated to St. Peter, was swallowed up by the sea about the time, as it is supposed, of Henry IV.; for a patent to exact certain dues for the erection of a pier at Shipden was granted in the fourteenth of Richard II., and two years afterwards, Sir William Beauchamp alienated, to a priory of Carthusians, a piece of land in Shipden, adjoining the rectory.
At very low tides, large masses of old wall are still to be seen nearly half a mile from the cliffs, which the fishermen call the Church Rock, from the supposition that they formed part of the old church at Shipden; but some have discredited the idea, on the ground that the constant action of the sea for so many ages must have destroyed all vestiges of the building. We have, however, seen a fragment of the wall which was lately obtained from the mass during a very low tide; and it is undoubtedly composed of the squared flints, such as are used in the present church of Cromer.
The sea has continued to make rapid encroachments on the cliffs. Many large portions of land were washed away in 1611, previous to which the inhabitants had endeavoured, but fruitlessly, although p. 4they bestowed much labour and ingenuity in the attempt, to maintain a small harbour. In the winter of 1799, the Light-house cliffs, which rise from the beach to the height of two hundred and twenty feet, made several large slips, or shoots as they are called, one of which brought with it, at least half an acre of ground, and extended a considerable way into the sea at low water-mark. On January 15, 1825, a similar occurrence took place. An immense mass was detached from the cliff, which fell with tremendous force on the beach, extending in breadth above five hundred yards from the cliffs, covering an area of about twelve acres, and containing, it was supposed, not less than half a million of cubic yards of earth. Nothing had been observed which could raise any suspicion of what was about to take place, but providentially no lives were lost, nor did any accident occur, although the coast-guard had to pass in the night the very spot where it fell. A large and rapid stream, the cause in all probability of the catastrophe, immediately after the fall, issued from the bank, discharging itself down upon the beach with great violence.
In the morning of August 19, 1832, the Lighthouse hill again sustained a similar loss. This shoot was so considerable as to cause serious apprehension for the safety of the light-house itself; in consequence of which the master and elder p. 5brethren of the Trinity House, London, under whose superintendence all such matters are directed, determined on erecting a new one on the hill, two hundred and eighty yards further inland. The former one, which is partly dismantled, stands about three-quarters of a mile east of the town: both houses are in the parish of Overstrand. The first was built of brick in 1719, by Edward Browne of Ipswich; the present tower is also constructed of brick and stuccoed. It is fifty-two feet in height, and about three hundred above the level of the sea, surmounted with a lantern lighted by thirty lamps in three divisions, placed in plated copper reflectors, which revolve on an upright axis; the whole making a revolution in three minutes, consequently a full light is exhibited to the mariners every minute, consuming about eleven hundred gallons of oil annually. The gleam of light is perceptible about twenty-seven miles distant. The lamps all the year are lighted up at sunset, and extinguished at sunrise.
Many years ago, the first house was lighted up with coals, which was not only an uncertain light, but also a fixed one, and was frequently mistaken. The labour and expense likewise attendant on this method were very great; for the light was kept up by means of a large bellows, which was incessantly worked like a blacksmith’s forge, and the coals, which article is always at a high price in Cromer, could be brought up the hill only by small p. 6quantities at a time. In addition to which the smoke and dirt caused by their consumption, made the office of light-house-keeper a most disagreeable and an unhealthy one. The lamps require to be trimmed every three hours; but as the attendance is shared by two persons, a comfortable portion of sleep is allowed to each, the night being divided between them.
The annual salary formerly paid by the Trinity House to the light-house-keeper, was fifty pounds, it is now one hundred pounds. When the writer of this article first visited Cromer, many years ago, the situation was held by two females, by whom the house was kept in such beautiful order, as to form of itself, an object of attraction and admiration.
The floating-light off Mundesley, twelve miles to the east, may be distinctly seen in the night from the town, where the cliffs are not so lofty as those near the light-house.
Within the last five years the appearance of Cromer, viewed from the beach, has been materially changed. Before that time the undefended cliff alone presented itself to the eye, and the town seemed to stand much further back. A large subscription-room, bath-house, and other edifices, were constructed on the beach and side of the cliff, and apparent distance was given to the whole. At present the jetty appears buried under the town, and the tower of the church to p. 7frown over it—this change is owing to the following circumstance:
In the month of February, 1837, an extraordinary high tide occurred, accompanied with a furious gale from the north-west, which washed the whole of the above-mentioned edifices away, and even for a time threatened the destruction of the town and church. For two days, the 17th and 18th of February, the storm continued to rage. The day previous had been particularly fine, and the wind was gentle;—all had retired to rest in apparent security, fearless of the grand but capricious element which rolled near them. In the middle of the night, however, an alarm was given;—the tide was rising to an unprecedented height, threatening to engulph all within its reach. In a few moments all was terror and confusion; the cliff was crowded with spectators, every assistance was afforded to those immediately exposed to the fury of the mighty billows which poured in, and happily the loss of one life alone is to be deplored. This poor man was left in charge of Simons’s bathing-house; he was aroused, but whether he gave no heed to the admonition, or remained too long on the premises, is uncertain. He was borne away by the waters, together with the house, and his body was afterwards picked up at Bacton, near Mundesley, a distance of ten miles.
Morning presented an awful spectacle, and p. 8scarcely could the inhabitants recognize their own beach. But the alarm and the danger had not yet subsided; the wind continued to blow from the same quarter with equal violence throughout the day, and the tide was equally high. On the morning of the 18th, the cliff being undermined, fell in, bringing down with it one house; at the same time two vessels were lost, the one off the light-house hill, the other on the western edge of the town. The crew of the former were saved; five of those of the latter perished in an attempt to reach the shore by means of the boat. They were both from South Shields, which place they had left only forty-eight hours before the awful catastrophe occurred. The report of what had happened was speedily circulated through the neighbourhood, and such was the interest that it excited, that the town for many days afterwards was filled with persons anxious to behold the devastation.
From that time till the following year no steps were taken to protect the town from the increasing advance of the sea; but in the year 1838, a proposal was made to erect a safety wall for its defence. Accordingly the inhabitants subjected themselves to a rate in order to defray the expense, and the remainder of the sum estimated was raised by subscription. Those who had property on the cliff, and whose interest was thereby more particularly consulted, were rated at twenty shillings p. 9in the pound; others who were more remotely benefited, at ten shillings. It is sincerely wished that the means adopted for the security of the place will fully answer the end; but it is difficult for an inexperienced eye at least, to watch the furious rage of the tide, and knowing what has occurred, not to fear what yet may be.
A breakwater has also been raised as a further security to the place, and on the stability of this much necessarily depends. Whilst this continues firm, there is little to be apprehended; if this were swept away, the breastwork which defends the cliff would be but a slight defence.
The jetty, which formerly projected about seventy yards into the sea, was erected by subscription at the cost of fourteen hundred pounds, in 1822, after the old one had been destroyed by a furious storm. The high tide which we have just recorded did considerable injury likewise to the jetty, an injury which has not yet been entirely repaired. This is the fashionable resort in the evening, the company assembling here, some to enjoy the pure sea breezes, to watch the noble billows as they dash in graceful fury on the beach, the fine spectacle of the setting sun, or the mild splendour of the moon; others to meet their acquaintances, and a few, perhaps, whose discernment of the ridiculous is quicker than that of the sublime, for the exercise of their satirical talents.
This promenade is certainly extremely agreeable. p. 10No one who has not witnessed a fine sunset at Cromer, can have any idea of its magnificence: nor is the sunrise less beautiful; but few eyes, it may be presumed, are then open to view it. Cromer, indeed, possesses this double advantage, that the sun both rises and sets in the bosom of the ocean. During the season, a person, who is paid gratuitously, acts as a keeper of the jetty, whose business it is to prevent improper persons from obtruding themselves, and to preserve good order. We know not whether he has the power to forbid the smoking of cigars, but we certainly think that such ought to be the case; and we would add, that we can hardly believe that any real gentleman would require an admonition on such a point. Servants in livery and all common persons are not allowed at this time. On Sunday the jetty is, with just consideration, resigned to the inhabitants of the town.
The beach having a fine firm sand and a level surface, affords excellent sea-bathing, and every accommodation is supplied for the purpose. It is also much frequented when the tide is out, both as a promenade and for a drive. Indeed, the sands present a very gay and animated scene at this time, while the jetty is deserted. The carriage road to the beach is not so good as might be desired; but there are several convenient approaches to the beach and jetty by means of zigzag footpaths cut in the cliff, and terminating by easy p. 11staircases. A walk on the beach, whether to the east or the west of the town, is always delightful and interesting. Whether the grand expanse of waters on the one side, its waves breaking in hollow or harmonious melody, and winning us to meditation and calmness,—the stupendous and broken cliffs, forming bold projections, or sinking into shadow, concealing in their breast the spoils of ages,—or the treasures of the pebbly shore be the objects of attraction, there is always enough to amuse, to gratify, and to benefit.
The coast itself is particularly dangerous, in consequence of the violent rising of the surf. No less than four or five lights are stationed between this place and Yarmouth, a distance of only thirty-six miles, to prevent vessels from running into Cromer Bay, which, by the by has received the singular appellation of the Devil’s Throat. Life-boats are kept in readiness to succour the distressed, and nothing is omitted for their preservation which either the skill or courage of the fisherman can effect, or the generous and benevolent encouragement of individuals execute. We would not offend the amiable and much respected lady to whom this latter observation particularly refers, and therefore we abstain from saying more. True benevolence shrinks from all display, and is unconscious of its own merit; but the name and the remembrance of that lady will live long in the hearts of numbers who have been benefited by p. 12her liberality, or have witnessed her anxious superintendence at such seasons, accompanied with a fervent wish that she may long live to succour others, and to enjoy the approval of her own conscience.
Cromer enjoys but little trade, there being no convenient harbour where ships might ride in safety; what there is, consists in the exportation of corn, and importation of coals, tiles, oil-cakes, porter, &c. in vessels of from sixty to one hundred tons burthen. These lie upon the beach, where, at ebb tide, carts are drawn alongside to unlade them, and, when empty, they anchor at a little distance from the shore, and reload by means of boats. This method of lading and unlading is very expensive, as the carts, though drawn by four horses, owing to the steepness of the roads up the cliff, can only carry about half a ton at a time. In this manner they continue passing and repassing till the water has risen so high as to oblige them to desist, and wait till the tide has again receded. About two tides generally serve to complete the ship’s unloading.
The sea at Cromer is almost always diversified by a change of moving objects; the trade from Newcastle, Sunderland, and the Baltic, keeping up a constant succession of vessels; to which may be added the regular appearance of the various steam-vessels which ply between London and Scotland, giving life and interest to the scene, p. 13though defiling, as it were, the pure elements they have conquered by their ponderous volumes of black and waving smoke. In calm weather passengers may be landed from these vessels, in a boat sent for the purpose; but as the contingency of “wind and weather permitting,” is always expressed, few dare avail themselves of such a conveyance.
The cliffs, in many parts, are very lofty, and picturesquely broken; and their base being, for the most part, composed of strong blue clay, or marl, are capable of making considerable resistance to the impetuous attacks of the sea; so that while the upper parts, which are chiefly of sandy materials, are brought down by accidental circumstances, the feet still remain, opposing their bold projections to the waves, and forming a happy relief to the level surface of the beach. This is no place to enter into any geological detail respecting these cliffs; but if the more scientific reader should desire information on this point, we would direct him to an admirable article in the “Philosophical Magazine,” from the pen of Mr. Lyell; [13] or, what would be more acceptable, as well as attainable, we would venture to refer him to Mr. S. Simons, of Cromer, who, we feel convinced, would afford him that information which he is so competent to give. In the winter the cliffs are the favourite resort of many sea-birds, but in the summer some, p. 14as geese and ducks, retire to the marshes, while others entirely disappear.
Cromer church, which is dedicated to St. Peter and St. Paul, and was probably erected in the reign of Henry IV. is a very handsome structure, built with flint and freestone, and consists of a nave and two aisles: the tower, which is square, with an embattled top, is one hundred and fifty-nine feet in height. The entrance at the west end, which is a beautiful specimen of gothic architecture, is in ruins, as are also the north porch, and the chancel, of which little now remains. At one time indeed the other parts of the church were so much in ruins, that Divine service was performed in the tower. [14] Many of its ornaments were destroyed by the soldiers of Cromwell, and the church itself converted into barracks. The flinting, in many parts of the building, can scarcely be excelled in the beauty of its execution. The nave and aisles are spacious and neatly fitted up, and made capable of containing a large congregation; but except the double row of arches which support the roof, and divide the aisles, very p. 15little of what it once was now remains; these, however, are of beautiful proportions. The windows, which were formerly of noble dimensions, and were decorated with painted glass, are, on the north side especially, either totally or partially closed, by the introduction of common bricks. It possesses a well-toned organ, and galleries have lately been erected by the contributions of the visitors and inhabitants, obtained through the strenuous exertions of the Rev. W. Sharpe, whose conduct on the occasion deserves the sincere gratitude of all parties.
Before these galleries were built, the fishermen used to sit together in the middle aisle, and they formed an impressive and pleasing spectacle. Our best feelings, as well as our gratifications, are much enhanced by the association of ideas; and it was next to impossible to behold these persons, many of whom were venerable with age, and not be put in remembrance of Him whose the sea is, and who is so peculiarly the fisherman’s protector. These men, who do their “business in the great waters, and see the wonders of the Lord,” are themselves a testimony of his goodness. There is also something sacred in their occupation, which, added to the circumstances of their safety, thereby bringing them calmly to worship him in the haven where they would be, that arrests even the careless eye, and promotes devotion in the more serious.
The church contains but very few monuments, and these belong principally to the Windham and Ditchell families. Indeed, with the exception of p. 16one to Mr. B. Rust, and another erected by the inhabitants to a singularly amiable and talented individual, a surgeon and general practitioner of the place, Mr. Charles Stewart Earle, with some ancient slabs, are all it can boast of.
The following circumstance may seem trivial; but, as affording an instance of a providential escape, may not perhaps be unacceptable.
At about a third part of the height of the staircase, which leads up to the steeple, is a door opening upon the leads of a small turret, communicating with the stairs, from which, some years ago, a boy of the name of Yaxley fell into the church-yard between some timbers, (which were laid there for the repairs of the church,) without receiving any other injury than a few slight bruises. He afterwards entered the navy, when, falling down the hold of the vessel to which he belonged, and receiving a severe hurt, he was discharged:—through the interest of the late Admiral Windham he obtained a pension, which he still lives to enjoy.
The benefice is a vicarage, valued in the King’s Book at nine pounds four shillings, and was augmented, from 1743 to 1834, with twelve hundred pounds of royal bounty. The Rev. W. Sharpe is the present incumbent. The living is in the gift of the Bishop of Ely, who is also appropriator of the great tithes, now leased to the Countess of Listowel.
Cromer enjoys the advantage of a free-school, founded and endowed with ten pounds per annum p. 17by Sir Bartholomew Reed, a native of Cromer, and Lord Mayor of London, in 1502. The master, who was to be “a priest, cunning in grammar,” was enjoined to say mass once a year in the parish-church of Cromer, for the soul of the worthy founder; and to teach, with all good diligence, “Gentlemen’s sons, poor men’s sons, and other good men’s children of Cromer, and the villages around.” The former part of the duty is dispensed with, but the school still flourishes, the Goldsmith’s company, who are the trustees, having rebuilt the school-house in 1821, and augmented the master’s salary, at different times, and it now amounts to one hundred and thirty pounds per annum.
Roger Bacon, a mariner of Cromer, is said to have discovered Iceland in the reign of Henry IV. and also to have taken prisoner the Prince of Scotland, James Stewart, who was sailing to France, in order to be educated there.
A savings’-bank was established here in 1827. Petty-sessions are held every alternate Monday. The poor’s land was let, in 1786, for ten pounds a year—it now lets for fourteen guineas. This is equally divided between twenty-four widows, who do not receive relief from the parish. The market, which was held every Saturday, under letters patent of Henry IV. has been long discontinued; but the town is well supplied with provisions of all kinds, during the bathing season, persons from p. 18the country round bringing in poultry, butter, eggs, vegetables, &c. daily. Fish is not very plentiful: however, this depends upon the season. Mackerel, whitings, herrings, and cod are caught here; its lobsters have long been noted for their excellence, as are also its crabs. Great quantities of these are caught and sent immediately to London. Lobsters are reckoned out of season, from the latter end of June to that of July.
It also boasts of an annual fair which is held on Whit Monday.
Cromer was first frequented as a watering-place about the year 1785, by a few families of retired habits, whose favourable reports of the place induced others to follow their example. The accommodations, however, were long adverse to the influx of visitors, and the want of a respectable inn, in particular, was greatly felt, and was a material check, not so much to the actual prosperity of the place, but to its very existence as a place of general resort. At length, a spirited individual, the present venerable Mr. Tucker, built the New Inn, which from that time to the present he has conducted with the greatest propriety, and with every regard to the comfort of those who have used his house. The character of Cromer thenceforth became altered, and various improvements followed. Indeed, the inhabitants of Cromer owe a large debt of gratitude to him, and if universal respect, and, it is to be hoped, p. 19just success, to himself, can reward him, he receives his full recompense.
There are several machines for sea-bathing, the hour for which is regulated by the tide. The bather, Mr. Jacob, who is a very steady man, and the descendant of a line of bathers, lives in Jetty Street.
There are two bathing-houses, one on the cliff and the other by the side of it, on the beach: both of which are extremely well conducted, and kept by persons of respectability, by whom every requisite attention and civility are shown.
Cromer now contains many comfortable private lodging-houses, as well as apartments for the accommodation of its visitors, as also some respectable inns. One of the best houses in Cromer has lately been converted into a boarding-house, under the name of the Hotel de Paris. A number of houses, called the Crescent, have been built within the last ten years, and are a great acquisition. Had the same spirit of speculation in building, &c., existed here as elsewhere, or the same encouragement, at least, been given to it, it is probable that long ere this, Cromer would have risen to considerable importance as a bathing-place and fashionable resort; nature having done everything for it that might favour such a result. It has, however, been asserted, and perhaps with truth, that this spirit of improvement has been discountenanced on the ground, that the moral p. 20welfare of the place was promoted by its comparative obscurity and non-intermixture with the idle and the more corrupted servants, &c. of cities and towns. The facilities of travelling to long distances, too naturally tends to injure places which depend much on the local encouragement they receive. Persons who were once content, to visit, summer after summer, the same place, or who chose that which their own neighbourhood made most convenient, are no longer detained by motives of expense or distance from indulging a taste for variety. The rent of the houses is high, and consequently, that of lodgings is the same: the latter may be had at the rate of from one guinea and a half to three and a half: entire houses from four to six guineas a week: those of the latter price, of which there are not more than four or five, make up ten beds, and are therefore capable of accommodating a large family.
The inhabitants, almost universally speaking, are extremely civil and well-behaved, respectable in themselves, and respectful towards others; simple in their manners, and free from that spirit of extortion which is but too commonly the fault of those who have only a short season to enable them to meet many exigences, and who have only a partial interest in those they serve.
The walks, drives, &c., round Cromer are exceedingly beautiful, affording alike to the geologist, botanist, and mineralogist, abundant materials p. 21for the gratification of their respective tastes. Many valuable organic and fossil remains are to be found in different parts of the coast, a circumstance to which the active researches of the late Mr. C. S. Earle served materially to draw the attention of scientific persons. Professor Buckland and the learned Mr. Lyell have both honoured Cromer by visiting it.
Wild flowers are to be met with here in great beauty and luxuriance, some of them sufficiently rare to induce a long and health-giving walk in search of them. The sea-weeds, or algæ, are those which are generally found on our coasts, consisting of the great strap-wort, (Laminaria;) Bladder-wort, (Fucus vesiculocus;) Serrated Bladder-wort, (Fucus serratus;) the beautiful crimson Plocamium coccineum, the Ulva latissina, &c.
All these, when cast on the beach, are carefully collected in heaps, and serve as manure to the lands.
Jet and amber are found here in the winter. Jasper of all kinds, cornelian, aqui marine, and agates of every description, some of which are extremely beautiful, may be picked up on the beach. Many of the common pebbles, also, are remarkably handsome, and take a fine polish. The youthful student of mineralogy may also add to his collection specimens of micaceous schist, trapstone, porphyry, basalt, &c. &c. Shells, p. 22either fossil or recent, do not abound here, except in the upper chalk, which forms the substratum of the beach, and in isolated patches of the overlying crag, where a few rare fossil shells are found: recent shells, indeed, are scarcely ever to be met with. The common Perriwinkle, (Turbo littoreus;) is, however, plentiful on the rocks at low water.
We give no guide to the walks, they are all easily found, and there is a pleasure in making rambles for ourselves where every part of the country invites us to explore it. The best view of the town, however, is from a short distance on the Runton road. Varley, so well known as an artist, has a very pleasing drawing, taken from the spot to which we allude. The woods round Cromer Hall are a beautiful object from every direction. The Hall itself is a handsome mansion, built in the Gothic style, with a centre and two wings. It was commenced in 1827, by George Thomas Windham, Esq., but was burnt down, before it was finished, in 1829. It was rebuilt, and is now occupied by Henry Baring, Esq., brother of Lord Ashburton, who married Miss Cecilia Windham, another of the daughters of Admiral Windham.
The following gentlemen also possess, and occasionally inhabit handsome houses in or near the town. H. Birkbeck, Esq., Sir Jacob Astley, now p. 23Lord Hastings, Samuel Hoare, Esq., and Robert Herring, Esq. George Stanley Repton, Esq. is lord of the manor of Cromer Weylands, and of several other manors in the neighbourhood. Colne House is inhabited by Mrs. Morris.
The season for Cromer is usually reckoned from the beginning of June till the middle or end of October. The place itself is never in such beauty as in the autumn, nor is its sea or the air more invigorating at any time than in the month of October.
A mail-coach arrives daily from Norwich at half-past twelve, and returns at half-past one o’clock. Letters, however, must be received at one o’clock, at which time the post-office closes; on payment of a penny a letter will be forwarded the same day. Phaetons, sociables, and also saddle-horses may be had of Mr. Thomas Brown.
There are subscription reading-rooms, where the London and Provincial papers are taken in daily, kept by Mr. Simons; and also a circulating-library, kept by Mrs. Leak.
Carriers go once or twice a week to Norwich, Lynn, and other places in the neighbourhood.
The drives about Cromer are far more agreeable than persons have generally been led to suppose. The appearance of the country is picturesque and diversified; the roads themselves are good, and the sea, which is never long concealed from the view, forms at all times a beautiful object, sometimes appearing in wide expanse before us, sometimes seen only through an opening in the woods or over a rich valley, and at others breaking suddenly upon the eye, yet ever harmonizing most delightfully with the general features of the landscape. We do not usually associate the idea of rich foliage with the sea, but in this respect Cromer has a great advantage over most places on the coast, certainly over those on the eastern and northern. The soil, indeed, seems well suited to the growth of trees, many of which attain a very considerable size, and may vie in luxuriance of foliage as in height with those of more inland situations. The oak, Spanish chestnut, and beech, in particular flourish here, and by their beauty afford a constant theme of admiration.
There is no drive, however, prettier than that to the village and hall of Felbrigg, the seat and property of William Howe Windham, Esq.
p. 25Felbrigg is three miles distant from Cromer, and is delightfully situated in the bosom of extensive and venerable woods. Almost as soon as you have entered the park, the tower of the church is seen on the left, rising in a most picturesque manner above the lofty trees which encircle it, and as the hall is approached, the drive continues between trees of the most striking beauty; indeed, the beech-trees are esteemed as some of the most remarkable in the kingdom, and are of an extraordinary size and circumference. The hall is a large and handsome mansion, built in the Elizabethan style, on a commanding eminence, and stands in a park comprising about two hundred acres of land. Considerable additions have been made to it at different periods, the greater part of which are in a style corresponding with the ancient south front. It contains many of the works of the most eminent painters, particularly of Rembrandt, Bergham, and Vandersvelt. Among the best paintings may be enumerated, a Usurer, and the Portrait of an Old Woman, by Rembrandt, Cows Stalled, by Sagtleven, Scheveling Market, and a small Landscape, by Paul Brill. The library comprises a large collection of valuable books and prints.
The stables, built in the same style as the Hall, were erected by the late Admiral Windham in 1825.
On the skirts of the park, on a lofty eminence, p. 26stood formerly the cottage, mistaken by some for the rectory-house: this has been lately pulled down, and the present rector lives at Metton, which is consolidated with Felbrigg,—the rectory-house. About a quarter of a mile south-east of the Hall, surrounded by trees, is the church. This is a handsome edifice, and contains several monuments to the Felbrigg and Windham families. On a large marble slab is a very fine brass, representing the figure, in complete armour, of Sir Simon de Felbrigg, who lived in the reign of Henry VI. The inspection of this alone would deserve a drive or a walk [26a] to Felbrigg, for a more perfect specimen of the kind is rarely to be seen.
On the south side of the altar is a beautiful monument, with a fine bust by Nollekins, of the late Right Honourable William Windham, whose lamented death was caused by an injury he received in his endeavours to save the library of his friend Mr. F. North, when his house in Berkeley-square was on fire. An operation had been recommended, and to this he submitted; but, as it proved, without success. This accomplished and amiable man died in the year 1810. Leaving no issue, his estates descended to his half-brother, the late Admiral Lukin, who assumed the name of Windham. [26b]
p. 27The church at Felbrigg, like most others in this neighbourhood, is shorn of some of its honours. There is no vestry, although the ruins of one remain, and the entrance through the north porch is closed up, and the porch itself serves as a shelter to the sheep, which are turned into the churchyard. We regret the circumstance, as it appears to us a desecration of a building in which God has allowed His name to be put; and when we look “on this picture and on that,”—the handsome mansion with all its comforts, and the house of God, as also the last resting-place of the former owners of that mansion—we would not, where there is so much to admire and so little to lament, have a blade of grass grow irregularly on the one nor a stone left unevenly on the other.
The manor of Felbrigg was purchased by Lord Scales, of the executors of Sir Simon Felbrigg. He afterwards sold it to John Windham, Esq., when a curious circumstance took place, which does not speak well for the gallantry of the times, or at least for that of the party most concerned in it. Mr. Windham being absent, Sir John Felbrigg, who had set up an hereditary claim to the estate, entered the Hall, from which he forcibly dragged out Mrs. Windham, himself taking possession of the mansion. However, he p. 28subsequently relinquished his claim for the payment of two hundred marks.
The park, from the unevenness of the ground, rising and falling gently into hills and vales, the richness of the woods, and the manner in which it has been laid out, is extremely beautiful. The drive lies exactly through it, passing close by the house. [28] There is also another way of approaching it, which is through the village and the new lodge-gate at the east; and this also is very beautiful.
On leaving the park, two roads present themselves, one on the right hand, which leads through a very shady lane, the extremity of which is called the Lion’s Mouth, into the Holt-road, by which you may return to Cromer direct; or if the desire be to lengthen the drive, the road may be taken across the heath, to Sherringham, Beeston, or Runton, where some of the most delightful prospects that wild scenery can afford will be successively presented to the eye. The descent to each of the former villages is most striking and romantic; and but one regret will arise, namely, that the roads are not well calculated for a carriage, being exceedingly sandy, and the ruts very deep. There is not, however, the slightest fear for those on horseback, nor indeed for those p. 29in a carriage, if attended by any one accustomed to the road, [29a] and certainly no one should leave Cromer in ignorance of the beauties which here offer themselves.
Pic-nic parties are frequently formed to a valley on the right of the road, over the heath, which can be approached only on foot, or on horseback. A spot is also shown on the top of the heath, which by some is stated to have been a Roman encampment, but it is much more probable the site of an ancient beacon.
If on leaving the park-gate the road in front be taken, (and which is most proper for a carriage,) the church of Aylmerton [29b] will be passed, when turning immediately to the right, it will lead to the Holt-road, only a little higher than the entrance from the Lion’s Mouth. The drive will consist in that case, of about six miles,—if the road across the hills be taken, of seven.
The drive from Cromer to Mundesley presents some of the finest sea-views imaginable. The road runs almost entirely along the coast, taking in its course the villages of Overstrand, Syderstrand, and Trimmingham.
About two miles E. by S. of Cromer, is the small parish of Overstrand, which extends two miles along the sea-cliffs, and is bounded inland by a lofty range of hills. On the beach is a hamlet, and fishing-station, commonly called Beck Hoy, with a curing-house, and a free-school, the latter built and supported, during her lifetime, by the late amiable and lamented Miss Buxton: it is now carried on by Miss Gurney, of Northrepp’s Cottage.
The old church, like that of Shipden, was swallowed up by the sea, which catastrophe took place in the reign of Richard II. The present, which is dedicated to St. Martyn, was then built on half an acre of ground given by John Reymes; but the chancel and part of the nave are in ruins, the remainder is walled in, and fitted for divine service. The living, which is very small, is in the gift of Lord Suffield. In the year 1250, (34 Hen. III.) a duel or combat of trial was fought on account of this lordship, on behalf of Agnes de Reymes.
p. 31Foulness, or Cromer light-house, is in this parish.
Syderstrand is a small parish, containing not more than four hundred acres of land, partly belonging to Samuel Hoare, Esq., the lord of the manor, and patron of the living, which is a rectory, alternately with the sovereign as Duchess of Lancaster. [31] The church, dedicated to St. Michael, stands on a solitary eminence, and in appearance and loneliness, reminds the traveller of the sacred edifices which salute his eye in the Isle of Man.
Not a tree or a bush casts a shade near it, the dead alone in their solitude surround it, and the deep calm is broken only by the hollow dash of the billows, or the occasional screech of the sea-mew.
Still continuing in view of the sea, you reach Trimmingham, which stands on the highest ground in Norfolk. The cliffs are here not less than three hundred feet high. It is five miles E. S. E. of Cromer, and the same distance N. by E. of North Walsham. The ocean here also gains considerably on the coast. Several years ago, two farm-houses, with their yards and outbuildings, were washed down by the sea. This accident was owing to the choking up of a spring, which occasioned p. 32such a subterraneous body of water, that several acres of land, as well as these buildings, were detached from the main land and washed into the sea.
The church stands on the highest point of the cliffs. It was formerly a favourite resort of the superstitious and ignorant; for its ancient priests pretended that they were in the possession of the hand of St. John the Baptist; an imposition which was a source of considerable wealth to them, as pilgrims from all parts visited it, making large offerings in honour of the precious relic. The living is in the gift of the crown. Part of the glebe land has been washed into the sea.
On a hill about a mile from the village are to be seen the ruins of an old beacon. This hill commands an exceedingly fine prospect both of the sea and land. In very clear weather Yarmouth is discernible, and the spire of Norwich Cathedral is seen without difficulty. This spot has gained such celebrity for the extensive view it affords, that few persons quit Cromer without having visited it. It is said that no less than from thirty to forty churches may be counted from hence.
About two miles further on, is Mundesley, which from a mere straggling village has become of sufficient importance to rank next to Cromer as a watering-place; a circumstance owing chiefly to the spirited exertions of F. Wheatly, Esq., although it is, and must continue to be, greatly inferior p. 33to that place in every respect. It is distant from Cromer seven miles. Like Cromer, it is situated on the lofty and broken cliffs of the ocean, which, however, are here divided by a deep ravine, through which a small stream discharges itself upon the beach, which at low water has a broad firm sand, and, like Cromer, it is subjected to the formidable encroachments of the sea. To remedy this, the above-named liberal individual erected, at the cost of a thousand pounds, a massive wall, forming an upper and a lower terrace, the latter of which, being ninety feet above the beach, commands a most extensive and delightful view of the ocean. In the year 1837, during the same extraordinary high tides, that ravaged Cromer, this wall was in part destroyed, and was repaired at a cost little inferior to the first. The prospect upon the beach to the southward, differs greatly in appearance from that of Cromer, by the land at Happisburgh projecting into the sea, forming a promontory. There are two good inns here, and several respectable lodging-houses, with bathing-machines, a warm bath, and other necessary accommodations for visitors.
The church, dedicated to All Saints, stands on a lofty point of the cliff above the village, and was formerly a noble edifice, but the tower is gone, and the chancel, and part of the nave are in ruins. The remaining part of the nave has been repaired, p. 34and is fitted up for divine service. The living is in the gift of the crown. The place derives interest from the circumstance of the father of Archbishop Tenison having been ejected from this living in 1640, for his loyalty to the ill-fated and amiable monarch, Charles I.
Returning by Southrepps, we are struck with its church which is one of the most beautiful in the neighbourhood, and, as usual, is built on an eminence. It is dedicated to St. James. In the year 1788, the side-aisles were taken down, and the arches filled up. The living is in the gift of the crown. The parsonage-house is situated near it.
On a hill, about a mile from the village, are the ruins of an old beacon, which commands a fine view of the sea and surrounding country. Southrepps, is five miles from Cromer and one from Thorpe. The drive consists of seventeen miles.
A short and very pleasant drive may be made, by taking the road to Northrepps, and having passed the Hall, and Hill House, both belonging to Richard Gurney, Esq., returning by the road leading to the Cottage. This mansion, which is sometimes also called the Hermitage, is inhabited by Miss Gurney, and for its romantic situation is greatly admired. It stands in a deep valley, opening towards Overstrand and the sea. It is flinted in the Gothic style, and with the porch is thatched p. 35and fitted up with great taste and simplicity. The grounds and woods by which it is surrounded are extremely beautiful.
On an eminence called Toll’s-hill, not far from the cottage, is a very fine echo, produced by a bold and lofty range of hills, on the opposite side of the vale, and extending between it and the sea from Overstrand to Syderstrand.
Taking the Norwich road, we proceed to the village of Northrepps, which is divided into two parts, called Church Street and Far Street, containing about two thousand six hundred acres of land, picturesquely broken into hill and dale, and belonging chiefly to Lord Suffield. The church, dedicated to St. Mary, though not equal to Southrepps, is a noble building, with a lofty square tower. The patronage is vested in the crown. The rectory-house and free-school, which he also endowed, were both erected at the cost of the late incumbent, the Rev. Thomas Hay, D.D.
Leaving now the Norwich road, and taking that to North Walsham, we reach Thorpe Market, which is a small but extremely pretty village, p. 36about a mile from Gunton Hall, four and a half from North Walsham, and the same from Cromer.
The present church is much and deservedly admired for the simplicity and elegance of its construction. It is dedicated to St. Margaret, and was partly built on the site of the old one, by the second Lord Suffield, who died in 1821. It consists only of a single arch, of flint-stone and freestone, with turrets at the angles, and a gable on each side, surmounted by a cross. The windows are ornamented with painted glass, as are also the upper parts of two light Gothic screens, which divide the chancel and the west end from the centre part, which is fitted up for divine service. It contains three ancient monuments, taken from the old church, and a handsome one by Rynart, erected to the memory of two brothers of the noble founder. The vault of the Rants (formerly lords of the manor) was under the old church, but is now securely bricked up in the churchyard.
Close to the church are extensive gardens, to which parties are made, to eat strawberries and cream, &c. An oak stands there, which, for beauty and size attracts universal admiration, and is, in fact, one of the lions of the place. [36] Some p. 37Spanish chestnuts also, near the church-gate, are very fine.
Leaving Thorpe for Gunton Hall, the seat of the Right Hon. Lord Suffield, you pass, at the north-east angle of the park, under the arch of an elegant tower, rising to the height of one hundred and twenty feet six inches, from which an extensive prospect is afforded of the surrounding country. The Hall itself is an elegant edifice, built of white brick, and it was much enlarged under the direction of Mr. Wyatt, in 1785. It stands on an eminence commanding a very fine view of the park and its plantations, which occupy not less than nine hundred and forty-two acres. More attention has been paid in the interior to comfort than to splendor, in which respect it is not to be exceeded. The gardens are extensive, and tastefully laid out. The park is well stocked with deer, and is noted for the number of pheasants and hares with which it abounds. From the Thorpe road an avenue is pointed out, which extends two miles, and opens into the park, through which the view is perfectly unobstructed.
A fine lake lies on the left as we leave the park through the Hanworth Lodge, where the trees again form an avenue, naturally, and in a most picturesque manner, interlacing their luxuriant branches, and forming a canopy over the road.
The church, dedicated to St. Andrew, has a handsome portico of the Doric order, and was rebuilt p. 38by Sir Willian Morden Harbord, Bart., who became possessed of the estate in 1742. The rectory is consolidated with Hanworth, and is in the gift of Lord Suffield. The house is shown to visitors.
There is little to be noticed at Roughton, except that it is a pleasant village in an open vale, containing about one thousand one hundred acres of land, of which three hundred and seventy-six are of heath. The church is a vicarage, of which the Bishop of Ely is patron. It boasts of a free-school, endowed with thirty-six acres of land, founded by Robert Brown early in the seventeenth century. Roughton is four miles from Cromer. The drive consists of nearly fourteen miles.
The drive to Runton is by some considered the least pleasing of any round Cromer. We hardly know how to subscribe to this opinion, for the sea-view is extremely fine, and there are points of inland beauty belonging to it which are very striking. As we before observed, the town itself, to be seen to advantage, should be viewed from this road.
p. 39Runton parish comprises two small villages, called East and West Runton, and is from one to two miles distant from Cromer. It contains about one thousand acres of land, subject to the encroachments of the ocean, and is bounded on the south by a lofty range of hills. The high hill to the left is known by the name of Wrinkleborrow Hill. The church, which is dedicated to the Holy Trinity, stands on an acclivity above West Runton, and is a rectory, united with Aylmerton. East Runton is a mere fishing village, nearly a mile east of the church, on a small green. Sir T. F. Buxton owns a very neat mansion here.
About a mile distant is the small village of Beeston, or as it is distinguished from others of the same name, Beeston Regis, or Beeston on the Sea, which adjoins Lower Sherringham. The church, which is near the beach, is dedicated to All Saints, and is a rectory, of which the patronage is vested in the Duchy of Lancaster.
The object of attraction here, however, to the visitor, is the ruins of its ancient priory, which stand at the east end of the village in a romantic dale, sheltered from the cold winds of the north by lofty hills, yet so situated as to command a noble view of the sea and of the surrounding country. The site indeed of all the religious houses of old was so invariably selected on principles of the best taste, and with the utmost regard to the local advantages and conveniences of the place, that a p. 40recollection of the fact should always draw attention to the point, with a view to discover what these were.
The priory was dedicated to St. Mary, and was founded in the reign of King John, by the Lady Isabel, or, as some say, by the Lady Elizabeth de Cressy, for canons of the order of St. Augustine. At the dissolution it was granted to Sir Edward Windham and others. A small tower, and the whole of the west gable-wall of the Priory church are standing, together with many other large masses of walls, over which the “ruin-loving ivy” extends its faithful embraces. Some years ago the ivy grew most luxuriantly, but it was ruthlessly cut down, since which time, though its growth has been encouraged, it has not recovered its original beauty. To see these ruins to advantage, they should be visited in the evening, when the glowing yet subdued rays of the setting sun illuminating the most picturesque parts of the abbey and the surrounding landscape, and throwing others into deep and harmonious shade, a picture is presented to the careless observer which cannot fail to give gratification, and to awaken in the more meditative that train of melancholy but pleasing thought, which seems so peculiarly to belong to such spectacles and to such seasons.
Lower Sherringham, which is nearly a mile and a half distant from the church, is situated on lofty sea-cliffs, rising nearly one hundred feet from the p. 41beach. These cliffs are divided by a narrow ravine, through which a small rivulet and a road winds down the beach. It is a considerable fishing-station, having several curing-houses. Cod, skate, whitings, crabs, and lobsters are caught here in abundance, particularly the two latter, of which great quantities are sent to London by vessels which receive the fish from the boats whilst at sea.
The sea makes continual encroachments here as on other places on this coast. During an extraordinary high tide, which occurred on the 22nd of October, 1800, a large inn was precipitated in ruins upon the beach, but providentially its inhabitants had sufficient warning of their danger to save themselves and much of their furniture. A new inn has been since erected.
There are a few traces of a chapel, dedicated to St. Nicholas, still to be seen.—The lovers of the sublime will do well to visit the cliffs of this place.
From hence to Upper Sherringham the road becomes exceedingly picturesque and beautiful, and is not to be exceeded by any other in the neighbourhood. The estate which lies to the right, together with the handsome mansion erected upon it, belonged to the late A. Upcher, Esq., and is now in possession of his son. The house seen nearest the road, and which is often mistaken for the Hall, the seat of H. R. Upcher, p. 42Esq., is inhabited by the Hon. Mrs. Upcher, the widow of the above gentleman; a lady of whom it may truly be said by the poor of her neighbourhood, that she is “feet to the lame, and eyes to the blind,” and a friend to all.
The church, which is dedicated to All Saints, is a vicarage, of which the Bishop of Ely is the patron. It is a very neat structure, and is kept in excellent repair. It boasts of only two or three slabs with brasses upon them, and one monument, by Bacon, erected in the chancel to the memory of Mr. Upcher, but this is well worthy of inspection. The design is elegantly conceived and admirably executed, yet so simple and touching, and the inscription it bears is so impressive, that it can scarcely fail to do, what, indeed, all such momentoes ought to do, and are perhaps intended to do,—affect the heart of the observer, and recall a truth to his mind, which is too often forgotten—that all on earth is fleeting and unstable.
Near the church is a large reservoir, which was formed in 1814, to supply the village with water, brought in pipes from a spring on the neighbouring hill. The school is supported by Mrs. Upcher, for the education of thirty boys and fifty girls, who each pay one penny per week.
If the visitor desire to view Sherringham Hall, the mansion and grounds of H. R. Upcher, Esq., he should take the Upper Road, as it is called, leaving Cromer by the Holt-road, by which p. 43means he will not only gain the most advantageous view of each, but avoid the ascent of a very long and high hill. Entering the lodge-gate direct from the road, he will proceed for nearly a mile through a path-road through the grounds, which for boldness, beauty, and variety is unequalled in this part of the country, and would not disgrace even some of the more favoured spots in Wales. If the gurgling of the concealed stream, or the gush of falling water were heard,—the characteristic accompaniment of Welch scenery,—the delusion would be complete: as it is surprise and pleasure divide the attention. After winding down the hill for some time, occasionally obtaining a fine prospect of the ocean, and seeing to advantage the house inhabited by the Hon. Mrs. Upcher, we suddenly come in view of the Hall itself, which is a handsome and commodious edifice. Its situation is well chosen, overlooking a fine bay of the ocean, and sheltered by a woody acclivity. The ground everywhere rises into bold swells, and is adorned with trees from their summits to their base, united by gentle slopes to the rich valleys, “spotted with white sheep,” that divide them. The effect of alternate light and shade on these at a distance is delightfully shown, and the whole scenery is such as may equally gratify the painter and the lover of nature.
One pensive thought, however, is awakened by the recollection that the amiable individual who p. 44erected the mansion and in part [44] adorned the surrounding grounds, did not live to inhabit the one or to enjoy the other. Mr. Upcher died in the flower of his age, in 1819, just before the house was completed, leaving a widow and several young children, and is interred in a mausoleum which he built adjoining the church.
Having passed the house, the road leads into the Lower Road, to Beeston and Runton, or by taking the road to the left, you may reach Weybourn, where the cliff ends.
The drive to Upper Sherringham by the Lower Road, or Runton, consists of five miles; by the Upper, or Holt, six miles. If extended to Weybourn, eight miles.
Having already noticed Roughton, we proceed without anything particular to observe, till we are within a short distance of Erpingham, when we pass, on the left, the rectory-house of Hanworth, p. 45which is very delightfully situated on the verge of Gunton-park, about two miles from Erpingham, which place lies to the right.
To those versed in chivalric lore, this village will be interesting;—Sir Thomas de Erpingham, the gallant favourite of the renowned John of Gaunt, and one of the sharers of the glories of the field of Agincourt, taking his name from this place, of which he and his predecessors were lords of the manor. The church and tower were begun in his time, but finished some years after his death. It contains inscriptions to the memory of the family, and a very perfect brass of Sir John Erpingham, whose son, Sir John, lies buried under a large stone at the east end of the south aisle: the arms are lost, but his effigy in armour remains, as standing on a lion: at each corner of the stone is the emblem of one of the Evangelists. The church, dedicated to St. Mary, has a tall square tower, on the summit of which were the effigies of four confessors, in their habits, carved in free-stone, three only of which are remaining, the fourth having been struck down by a violent tempest, which occurred during divine service, and killed one of the congregation. This happened about a century ago. The living, which is a rectory, is in the gift of the Dowager Lady Suffield.
At a short distance further, we pass on the left, the remains (for it can scarcely be called otherwise) p. 46of the ancient church of Ingworth, which appears to be of the age of William Rufus. It is dedicated to St. Lawrence, and had formerly a round tower, which fell down in the year 1812. The rectory is in the gift of W. H. Windham, Esq.
The whole of the drive lies through a richly wooded and fertile country, which as Blickling is approached, becomes more beautiful. The first sight of the Hall is very striking and imposing, and the general view of it gives an excellent idea of the grandeur and regularity of the buildings of former ages.
Blickling Hall, the seat of the Dowager Lady Suffield, is a large quadrangular mansion of brick, and forms a perfect specimen of architectural taste in the reign of James I., in which reign it was commenced, but not finished till that of Charles I. It has two open courts in the centre, with turrets at the angles, and a large clock-tower over the entrance, standing in a beautiful park of seven hundred acres [46] well stocked with deer, and extending into the adjacent parishes of Oulton, and Itteringham. The entrance from the court in front, formed by the offices and stables, is over a bridge of two arches, across the moat. On an ancient oak door in the front is the date, Anno Domini, 1620. This is within an arch, the key-stone of p. 47which bears a grotesque figure, and over the entablature is a rich compartment, bearing the arms and quarterings of Sir Henry Hobart, Bart. The entrance-hall measures forty-two feet, by thirty-three, and is thirty-three feet in height, opening to the great staircase of oak: this is ornamented with various figures, carved in wood, and conducts to a grand gallery, containing statues of Anne Boleyn and Queen Elizabeth. The apartments, which are spacious, are adorned with rich chimney-pieces, ceilings, wainscots, &c., but the paintings are not very numerous or very valuable. The most remarkable room is the library, which is one hundred and twenty-seven feet in length, by twenty-one in breadth, and consequently rather offends the eye, as not being well-proportioned. The ceiling is divided into compartments, containing figures emblematical of the five senses, with others in relief, many of which are not a little grotesque. The library contains upwards of ten thousand volumes, amongst which are some very scarce and valuable works.
The grounds are very beautiful. A lake, one of the finest pieces of water in the kingdom, forms the principal ornament of the park and gardens. This extends in the form of a crescent, about a mile in length, and four hundred yards in its greatest breadth, and is skirted by verdant lawns and thickly wooded hills, which give a most charming effect. The conduit and p. 48statues are those which formerly adorned the platform of Oxnead Hall, one of the residences of the Earl of Yarmouth, two miles and a half from Aylsham, of which the sole remains are one wing, occupied by a farmer.
About a mile from the Hall is a stone mausoleum, built in the form of a pyramid, upon a base of forty-five feet, in which are deposited the remains of the late Earl of Buckinghamshire and his two wives; but the remains of nineteen of his ancestors and relations are deposited in a vault, the coffins standing in an upright position, under the north aisle of the church.
There are many circumstances connected with Blickling which render it exceedingly interesting. The manor was held by Harold, the unfortunate competitor of the crown with the Norman William. The Conqueror settled the whole manor and advowson on the see of Thetford; afterwards, on the foundation of Norwich Cathedral, the Bishops of Norwich held the demesne in their own hands, and had here a palace with a fine park adjoining. In 1431, Blickling became the property of Sir Thomas Erpingham, and having passed though several hands it came into the possession of Sir Thomas Boleyn, the father of the beautiful and unfortunate Anne Boleyn, who was married from this place, Henry VIII. having come to Blickling personally to wed her. Nor was this the only royal visit paid to it; Charles II. and his amiable p. 49consort having visited it in his progress through the county, in 1671.
Blickling passed from the Boleyns to the Hobarts, ancestors of the Earl of Buckinghamshire, when the old mansion was pulled down, and the present rebuilt by Sir John Hobart, which was completed in 1628. The second Earl rebuilt the west front in 1769, when his countess, as appears by an inscription over the door of this part, bequeathed her jewels towards defraying the expenses.
The church, dedicated to St. Andrew, stands on an eminence near the Hall, and contains many inscriptions to the former lords of the manor, with a few small effigies and brasses; one of these is for Anne Boleyn, the aunt of the unhappy queen, which exhibits the first example of a necklace.
A mile and a half from Blickling, is the neat and well built market-town of Aylsham, which for beauty of situation is not exceeded by any in the county. It has a very flourishing appearance, and several excellent houses are built in or near it. The Bure, which runs at the foot of the town, is navigable to Yarmouth, for boats of forty tons burthen. During the reigns of Edward II. and III., it was celebrated for a manufacture of linen, then called “Aylsham webs,”—“Cloth of Aylsham.” This was superseded by the woollen manufacture, and in the time of James I., the inhabitants were chiefly employed in knitting worsted stockings, waistcoats, p. 50&c.; the introduction of frame-work knitting has destroyed this branch of trade likewise. The court of the Duchy of Lancaster was formerly held here. It was once noted for its Spa, the water of which was esteemed efficacious in cases of asthma, and other chronic diseases. The spring is about half a mile south of the town.
The church, dedicated to St. Michael, is a handsome Gothic structure, situated on the summit of an abrupt acclivity, commanding a very fine view of the surrounding country. It is said to have been built by John of Gaunt, whose arms appear in various parts of the walls. It contains many monumental inscriptions and brasses, among which is one to Thomas Wymes, who is represented in his winding-sheet. He caused the screens and roof to be painted with saints, martyrs, &c. Part of this work has lately been discovered, and is in good preservation. The fount has basso-relievos of the four emblems of the evangelists, the instruments of the Passion, and the arms of Gaunt. The interior of the church is very handsome; but is much injured in appearance by the irregularity of the pews, if not by the introduction of pews altogether. The benches, no doubt, were formerly much ornamented with carving, many rich specimens of which are remaining. The most beautiful of these have been collected, and with admirable taste arranged for a screen for the altar. The patronage p. 51of the living, which is a vicarage, is vested in the dean and chapter of Canterbury.
Aylsham enjoys the advantage of a free-school. Archbishop Parker also founded two fellowships in Corpus Christi College, Cambridge, and appropriated them to this and Wymondham school. One of the scholars must be born in Aylsham; but it is requisite for the other to be educated only at the free-school there.
Blickling is eleven miles from Cromer. Aylsham, by the direct road, is the same distance.
A pleasant excursion may be made to Bacton, a village twelve miles from Cromer, on the low road to Yarmouth, where the ruins of Bromholm Priory deserve attention.
This priory was founded by William de Glanville, for Clugniac monks, as a cell to Castleacre Priory, in 1113, and dedicated to St. Andrew. Like many others, it owed much of its former wealth to fraud and superstition. A cross was here preserved, which was said to be made of the wood of that on which our Saviour suffered, and which p. 52was possessed of such virtues, that nineteen blind persons, it is gravely asserted, were restored to sight by it. At the dissolution it was granted, with the adjacent estate, to Sir Thomas Woodhouse, ancestor of the present nobleman of that name. The building, like that of almost every other in Norfolk, was chiefly of flint. The hand of time has been ruthless in its damages; a lofty pointed arch-gateway is the only part still entire, the walls being, in many places, only a few feet high.
Paston is distant from Bacton about three miles. The church, which is dedicated to St. Margaret, boasts of several handsome monuments to the Paston family, of which the Earls of Yarmouth are the representatives, and who formerly possessed the manor. One of these, erected to the memory of Lady Katherine Paston, wife of Sir Edmund Paston, deserves notice. On it is a recumbent effigy of that lady, beautifully executed, in 1629, by Nathaniel Stone, at the cost of three hundred and forty pounds. John Mack, Esq. possesses a neat mansion here, which was erected on the site of the old one, formerly the seat of the Paston family.
The late celebrated Sir Astley Paston Cooper derived descent, by his mother’s side, from this family.
Knapton is situated on a lofty eminence, three miles from North Walsham, and one from Paston. p. 53The object of attraction here is the roof of the church, which is of Irish oak, richly ornamented with carvings of saints and angels. The church is dedicated to St. Peter and St. Paul, and has a nave and chancel, with a tower at the west end. The rectory is in the alternate gift of Lord Suffield and the Master and Fellows of St. Peter’s College, Cambridge.
Proceeding another mile we reach Trunch church, the tower of which, rising above the trees that surround it, forms a beautiful object, in every direction from which it is viewed. The church, dedicated to St. Botolph, contains an ancient font, which is well worthy of inspection.
The proximity of this parish, with several others, has given rise to the following familiar “memoranda:”
“Trimingham, Gimingham, Knapton, and Trunch,
Southrepps, and Northrepps, lie all in a bunch.”
The return by the latter places shortens the length of this excursion by one mile.
We may without fear or hesitation promise the visitor the greatest enjoyment from this excursion, p. 54whether the charms of a rich and highly cultivated country, the view of ruins “graceful in decay,” or the works of art be most accordant with his taste.
Having taken the Holt-road for three miles, we turn off to Gresham, and proceed to Barningham-town, or Barningham Wintes, a village consisting of about five hundred acres, belonging to John Thurston Mott, Esq. On entering the grounds, we are instantly struck with the beautiful landscape that surrounds us, and with the richness of the prospect; but our admiration is complete as we reach the picturesque ruins of the church which stands in the park. Anything more lovely we have seldom if ever beheld. The ruins, which are extremely fine, are covered with luxuriant ivy; but there is no appearance of decay here to offend the eye, or to pain the heart, nor even to raise a sigh of regret for the past. The chancel has been put into perfect repair, and most appropriately and liberally fitted up for divine service. All around is calm, holy, happy. True taste, true devotional feeling, pervades throughout. There the dead seem to “sleep sweetly” not in the sadness of death, but in the tranquillity of repose,—not in the gloom that oppresses the heart, but in the peace that speaks of hope. No straggling foot disturbs the green winding-sheet of the slumberers below, the light foot of the bird alone, which hath found there a place to build her nest, p. 55presses it, and the robin in privileged security chants from the spreading boughs that wave nigh a requiem over the departed,—not a weed is allowed to obtrude a leaf: the rank grass sighs not there, nor does the thistle shake there its downy head to the wind. The house of God, and “the house appointed for all living,” have been equally respected, and a striking proof afforded how much the beauty of holiness may be enhanced by the spirit of cheerfulness. We are utter strangers to Mr. Mott, we know only his name, (though in so saying, we may “argue ourselves unknown,”) that he is patron of the living of Barningham, and that he inhabits the venerable mansion, which is near the church; but what we have seen and do know commands our esteem, and we gratefully give it.
Two miles beyond Barningham, is Wolterton-hall, the seat of the Right Honourable the Earl of Orford, and Baron Walpole. [55] Respecting this handsome mansion we will quote the words of a former tourist:—
“Wolterton was purchased by Lord Walpole soon after his marriage. At that time, it consisted p. 56of a small mansion, with landed property of not more than five hundred pounds per annum, which he afterwards considerably increased by purchase. The house being burnt down during his embassy, he built the present seat in 1736, which is styled in Walpole’s Anecdotes, one of the best houses of the size in England. It was built after the designs of Ripley. The date is given in the following inscription placed over the door of the eastern entrance:
HORATIUS WALPOLE
HAS ÆDES
A. S. MDCCXXVII.
INCHOAVIT.
A. S. MDCCXLI.
PERFECIT.“Like most of Ripley’s houses, Wolterton is built with a basement story, and offices beneath, and consequently appears much less considerable in size and extent of accommodation than in fact it is. It is nearly a square pile, three sides of which have views on the park and pleasure-grounds, and to the fourth, eastward, is appended a large quadrangle, comprising the spacious kitchen offices, towards the north; a handsome domestic chapel to the south, (this has been removed, and a new one is now building to the east,) and communicating by an arched gatehouse to the east, with the stables and the kitchen gardens. The p. 57building is of brick, with chimnies, cornices, and dressings of the doors and windows in Portland stone, and is of so solid and durable a character, that the lapse of nearly a century has produced no apparent ill effect on its condition or appearance. The great hall on the north side was approached by a lofty flight of stone steps, which, as ill suited to the climate and habits of England, were removed by the late earl, and a commodious entrance, twenty feet square, made in the basement story beneath. The great staircase which fills the centre of the building, and is lighted from above, is in a rich and massive style of architecture, and extending down to the basement, serves as the approach from the present entrance to the principal apartments. Towards the south, in the centre of the house, is the library, pannelled in mahogany, thirty-two feet by twenty-four, containing a large collection of the ancient editions in various departments of literature, with much that is valuable of a more modern date. On the east side is the old dining-room, on the west the old drawing-room, each twenty-five feet by twenty, which have been, till lately, the customary living-rooms of the family.”
On the principal floor in the centre of the north front is the great hall, twenty-nine feet by twenty-four feet six inches, and twenty feet high. On the west side are portraits of Horatio, first Lord Walpole, of Wolterton; of his son Horatio, p. 58second Lord Walpole, of Wolterton, and fourth Lord Walpole, in whom the title of Earl of Orford was revived in 1806, and of Horatio, late and sixth earl of his family, his son and heir in parliamentary robes by Lane. Opposite, a large hunting subject (temporarily removed) by Wootton, with portraits of Sir Robert Walpole, with Sir Charles Turner, and General Churchill and of his favourite hunters and hounds. In the front of the door, Sir Robert Churchill in uniform, and Mr. Charles Churchill his son, who, by Lady Mary his wife, youngest daughter of Sir Robert Walpole, was maternal grandfather of Horatio, present and seventh Earl of Orford. Disposed in different parts of the hall, are some beautiful vases in antique marbles and alabasters, as also objects of sculpture, among which is a bust in bronze of Napoleon Buonaparte, from the collection of Monsieur Denon, and highly appreciated by him. A Cupid and Psyche, of natural size, in statuary, by Finilli, a work of great beauty and perfection; also a Venus, the size of life, by the same artist, in the manner of the Venus de Medicis.
On the left of the hall is the private family suit of the earl and countess, containing some interesting cabinet pictures. A very fine portrait in full length, of Oliver Cromwell, in armour, was formerly in this room, but is now removed to a bed-room. On the right, is the principal dining p. 59room, with a fine portrait over the fire-place, of Caroline, Queen of George II., in her robes by Amiconi,—presented by her majesty to Mr. Walpole on his completing Wolterton, with other presentation portraits of the family of George II., and in full length, in the pannel portraits of Charles I., in armour, and of George I., in his coronation robes, and George II., in half-armour. Portraits also of Rachel, Lady Walpole, grandmother of the present earl, daughter of William, third Duke of Devonshire, and of Harriet, daughter of General Churchill, wife of Sir Everard Fawkner, with her son, a child, (the late Mr. Fawkner, the father of the present Countess of Orford). On a marble table of large dimensions is a noble bust of Sir Robert Walpole, by Rysbraeck, with a star of the order of the garter, in his robes. A fine Rembrandt is also here; the subject, a Jew convert. An early picture by Opie, of children with a dog.
In advance of the hall, towards the southern suits of apartments is the great staircase, where, on a pedestal of Egyptian porphyry, is a colossal bust of Napoleon Buonaparte, the only existing copy of Canova’s original portrait model, of which was formed the ideal head of the statue in the Place Vendome.
The saloon front thirty-five feet six inches, by twenty-five feet six inches, and twenty feet high, finished in the rich and highly decorated style of p. 60that period. (1741.) Between the windows are two fine tables of oriental alabaster, of large dimensions, with many beautiful objects in sculpture, and in Dresden porcelain, to which have lately been added several casts of exquisite beauty, brought from Rome. Over the chimney-piece is a beautiful portrait of Louis XV., in his youth, in half-armour, with the royal mantle, presented by his majesty to Mr. Walpole, when ambassador at Paris. An original head of Pope by Richardson. Cardinal Fleury, by Rigaud, given by himself to Mr. Walpole. A view of Holland of large size. The celebrated landscape by Rubens called “The Rainbow,” late in the collection of Mr. Watson Taylor, generally considered as the chef d’œuvre of this great master, in the department of landscape. Andrea Sabbatina. Crucifixion. A Christ bearing his cross, the Virgin kneeling by him, in full size by Murillo. A picture of exquisite merit. A Spanish girl.
In the drawing-room, to the right of the saloon, are three beautiful Canalettis, one a view of St. Mark’s cathedral, another a general view of the city of Venice, the third a view in Venice. The Dutch Wedding, by an unknown master, of great perfection, and beauty of finish. A landscape with cattle, by Castiglioni. An exquisitely finished picture of flowers, with the head of our Saviour in the centre in chiaro-scuro, by J. David de Heim. A cabinet picture of p. 61Berghem, also a beautiful cast brought lately from Rome by Lord Orford.
In Lady Orford’s room, on the left of the saloon is a noble chimney-piece, in verd-antique, with sculpture and statuary, surrounded by a portrait of Louis XIV. in armour, by Jervas. This room is hung with fine Gobelin tapestry, as are also part of the drawing-room, and small dining-room. The chairs, sofas &c., are here covered with tapestry, the fables of Æsop forming the principal subjects.
The park is of great extent, comprising upwards of seven hundred acres of land. The fine beech and oaks which adorn it were chiefly planted by the first Lord Walpole. On the south side of the Hall is a bold terrace with a parapet, surmounted with urns, adjacent to which is a beautiful garden, sloping to the margin of an extensive lake, the banks of which are richly clothed with wood, the whole forming, with the distant view of Blickling, a piece of park-scenery which cannot be excelled.
For the sake of variety, the road through Erpingham, shortening the distance a mile, may be taken on returning.
The church, dedicated to St. Margaret, is a ruin; scarcely anything but the tower remaining. It stands on the north side of the Hall, and is almost concealed by the lofty hollies which surround it.
No person of taste will willingly leave Cromer without having visited the beautiful ruins of Beckham church, which are the most picturesque of any in the neighbourhood.
Having proceeded four miles on the Holt-road, we turn to the left, and at the distance of a mile the ruins present themselves, standing in a vale, where the waving of the corn, the song of the birds, or the sighing of the trees alone disturb their loneliness, and silence. The walls of the middle aisle and the chancel are remaining, as is also the south porch, which is luxuriantly bound with ivy. We ourselves saw them to great advantage. It was evening; a shower of rain had just fallen, and the heavy clouds yet cast a dark shade upon them. The large drops fell occasionally from the boughs of the fine ash which extends itself over them, shielding them from the roughness of the east blast in this their day of the north blast, seeming in fancy’s eye as if weeping for the decay of that which it protected; while the ivy, like a faithful friend, sheds its tears unseen in the bosom of one whom all had deserted. In a few moments, however, a brilliant rainbow threw its arch in the east, and the subdued rays of the setting p. 63sun burst forth, casting a bright gleam over them. There was beauty in the scene: there were reflections to be drawn from it, and an application to be made which could not be mistaken; and the ancient church of the valley, with all its accompaniments, spoke of a season of distress indeed, but of support and heavenly countenance, of cheerfulness and hope.
The drive from hence to Gresham is very pleasing, and a fine view of the surrounding country is obtained from an elevated part of the road which leads to that place, which having reached, two roads offer themselves, one direct to Cromer through Stustead, and the other, which is a mile further round, through Metton, and Felbrigg, making the whole extent of the drive about twelve miles; a consideration for which the beauty of the country will fully compensate.
As North Walsham and Holt are both within a morning’s drive from Cromer, a brief notice of each may not be unacceptable;—the principal places lying on the road, or near it, have already been mentioned.
North Walsham stands on an eminence with a p. 64declivity northward to the river Ant, and is distant fifteen miles from Norwich, and nine from Cromer, and is a pleasant and handsome, though irregularly built market-town, consisting chiefly of three streets. It has a neat cross, built by Bishop Thurlby, in the reign of Edward VI., and repaired in 1600 by Bishop Redman, whose arms, with those of the see, are impaled upon it. The river Ant, which passes within a mile north of the town, is navigable to Yarmouth.
North Walsham, suffered considerably in 1381, when a body of fifty thousand insurgents, who had taken up arms in opposition to the odious poll-tax, levied by Richard II., headed by John Litester, a dyer of Norwich, were put to the rout by Bishop Spencer. They afterwards retreated to the town, where they were totally overthrown by the troops of the prelate, after the destruction of the church and other buildings, into which they had thrown themselves for security. On the Norwich road, about a mile south of the town, is a cross, erected on the heath, in commemoration of this victory. In 1600 it was nearly destroyed by an accidental fire.
The church, dedicated to St. Nicholas, was rebuilt soon after its destruction in the rebellion of 1381, and is a noble structure. It is about one hundred and fifty-six feet long, and sixty-eight broad, having a nave, chancel, and side-aisles, with a fine south porch of flint and stone, adorned with p. 65boldly sculptured ornaments, amongst which are the arms of John of Gaunt, and the Abbot of St. Bennet, at the Holm. The aisles are separated from the body by a range of elegantly formed arches, supported by light clustered columns. A great part of the massive tower of this church, which was originally one hundred and forty-seven feet high, fell down on the 16th of May, 1724; another large portion fell on April 26th, 1835, when the remaining fragments, being in a very dangerous state, were removed about four years ago.
The great east window, in which were the arms of the see, with those of Bishop Freake, in painted glass, was unfortunately destroyed by a storm, in 1809. On the north side of the chancel is a fine tomb, with the effigy of Sir Wm. Paston, Knight, who, (as was not unfrequently done in those times,) in 1607, agreed with John Key, of London, to erect and fit up his tomb, with his effigy in armour, five feet and a half long, for which he was to be paid two hundred pounds. Sir William died the following year: instances, however, are recorded of persons having seen their own effigy &c., carried away by the sacrilegious soldiers of Cromwell. This monument was partially cleaned and repaired a few years ago, but the workman being limited to twenty pounds, he cleaned only the upper part of the figure, leaving the rest untouched.
p. 66The font, which is surrounded by an elegant octagonal railing, attracts much and deserved attention. The cover, which is profusely ornamented, is esteemed one of the richest of the kind in the kingdom.
The benefice is a vicarage, of which the Bishop of Norwich is the patron. It has a grammar-school, founded by Sir William Paston, in which several eminent men received their education, amongst whom were the great Lord Nelson; Watson, the author of “Anglia Sacra,” Sir Wm. Hoste, and Archbishop Tenison. The principal inn is the King’s Arms.
Holt is a remarkably clean and neat town, built on a rising ground, with a market on Saturdays: it is twenty-four miles from Norwich and ten from Cromer. The air of Holt is reckoned particularly salubrious, and its situation very agreeable. It has much increased of late in population, and several excellent houses have been built in or near it. In the year 1708 it suffered greatly from an accidental fire, which destroyed great part of it.
A fine spring issues out of a gravel hill on Sprout Common, on the south-west side of the p. 67town, which affords an ample supply to the place of pure soft water. The spring-head is securely walled round, and is visited by many, not only as a natural curiosity, but also for the purpose of enjoying the fine prospect which it commands over the picturesque valley of the Glaven, on the west side of the common, to which the spring gives name. The rectory-house is very pleasantly situated near this spot, commanding a delightful view of the Letheringsett and Bayfield woods.
The race-ground was broken up at the inclosure, in 1809. Assemblies are still held occasionally at the shire-hall.
The church, dedicated to St. Andrew, is an ancient structure, with a square tower, but has no spire. It contains monuments and inscriptions to the memory of the Holmes, Hobart, Butler, and Briggs families, with several others. The living is in the gift of St. John’s College, Cambridge.
The grammar-school was founded by Sir John Gresham, alderman of London, a native of this place. The Fishmongers’ Company, of London, are governors of the school.
The principal inn is the Feathers.
We now take our leave—not that we have exhausted our subject, but because our limits forbid us to add more. Farewell, then, Cromer!—Farewell magnificent billows! ye lofty cliffs, ye p. 68swelling hills, ye verdant woods, and ye, pure and invigorating breezes!—dear are you all, for the impress of Him who made you is stamped upon you, and a grateful recollection will hallow your remembrance. Prosperity be upon you and on your inhabitants. Long may the invalid continue to recover health from your waters, the weary in spirit to regain vigour, the mourner to receive alleviation to the sorrow which passes show, the youthful and happy to appreciate and enjoy your beauties. May all success be yours—in all truth, and to its utmost extent—farewell!
THE END.
Joseph Rickerby, Printer, Sherbourn Lane.
Excursion to Felbrigg.—Page 24. |
|
Cromer to Felbrigg |
2½ miles |
Extent of drive, returning by Aylmerton Church |
6 miles |
Over the Beeston Hills |
7 miles |
Excursion to Mundesley.—Page 30. |
|
Cromer to Overstrand |
2 miles |
— Syderstrand |
3 miles |
— Trimmingham |
5 miles |
— — Beacon |
6 miles |
— Mundesley |
8 miles |
Extent of drive, returning by Southrepps |
17 miles |
Excursion to Thorpe and Gunton Hall.—Page 35. |
|
Cromer to Thorpe |
5 miles |
— Gunton Hall |
6½ miles |
Extent of drive, returning by Roughton |
14 miles |
Excursion to Sherringham.—Page 38. |
|
Cromer to Runton |
1 and 2 miles |
— Beeston |
3 miles |
— Lower Sherringham |
4 miles |
— Upper Sherringham |
5 miles |
Extent of drive by the Upper Road |
12 miles |
If extended to Weybourne |
15 miles |
Excursion to Blickling and Aylsham.—Page 44. |
|
Cromer to Blickling |
11 miles |
— Aylsham |
11 miles |
The extent of the drive |
23 miles |
Excursion to Bacton, through Mundesley.—Page 51. |
|
Cromer to Paston |
9 miles. |
— Knapton |
8 miles. |
— Trunch |
7 miles. |
Extent of the drive |
23 miles. |
Excursion to Barningham and Wolterton.—Page 53. |
|
Cromer to Barningham |
8 miles. |
— Wolterton |
10 miles. |
Extent of drive, returning by Erpingham |
19 miles. |
Excursion to Beckham.—Page 62. |
|
Cromer to Beckham |
5 miles. |
Extent of drive, returning by Aylmerton Church |
11 miles. |
By Sustead and Felbrigg |
12 miles. |
North Walsh am.—Page 63. |
|
Cromer to North Walsham |
9 miles. |
Holt.—Page 66. |
|
Cromer to Holt |
10 miles. |
Page |
Line |
For |
Read |
2 |
19 |
Scarboro’ |
Yarmouth. |
4 |
4 |
three hundred and twenty |
two hundred and twenty. |
5 |
11 |
two hundred and fifty |
three hundred. |
6 |
17 |
Happisburgh |
Mundesley. |
7 |
23 |
Simm’s |
Simons’s. |
22 |
8 |
leave out last ten words. |
|
22 |
26 |
Maria |
Cecilia. |
23 |
21 |
Simms |
Simons. |
34 |
17 |
nine |
seventeen. |
44 |
16 |
North Walsham |
Aylsham. |
— |
13 |
five |
ten |
— |
14 |
six |
twelve. |
— |
15 |
eight |
fifteen. |
52 |
4 |
Thomas Wodehouse |
Sir Thomas Woodhouse. |
62 |
2 |
Stisted or |
Sustead and. |
63 |
14 |
Stisted |
Stustead. |
— |
16 |
eleven |
twelve. |
[13] No. LXVII. Phil. Mag. S. 3, vol. xvi. May, 1840.—2 A.
[14] At what time the church fell into decay is not known. It was in ruins, and disused about seventy-five years ago. It was then in contemplation to pull it down, and build a new one. Estimates were afterwards sent in for repairing the old church, covering the west porch, and erecting a new spire (there had been one before.) The cost was too much, and some of the proposed work was not done. Four out of the five bells were sold to help to pay the expense. The old lead from the roof was sold for upwards of three hundred pounds.
[26a] There is a foot-path over the fields, which considerably shortens the distance.
[26b] The keys of the church may be obtained on application to the clerk, who lives in the village. The way to the village is to the left hand of the gate leading to the park.
[28] It must be remembered, that for this and similar privileges, the visitor is indebted to the kindness of the respective owners of the estates through which some of the drives lie, that we have pointed out.
[29a] An excellent guide may be found in Mr. Thomas Brown, whose thorough acquaintance with every part of the country, combined with an unusual share of intelligence, good taste, and civility, render him an acquisition to the place, and a desirable attendant on such excursions.
[29b] Aylmerton, which is distant three miles from Cromer, stands on a declivity. W. H. Windham, Esq. owns the greater part of the soil, and is lord of the manor and patron of the church, which is dedicated to St. John the Baptist. The rectory is united with Runton.
[31] This manor, with many others in the neighbourhood, passed from the Earls Warren to John of Gaunt, Duke of Lancaster, and from him to his son Henry IV. and hence become royal property.
[36] The branch of this tree is forty-two feet, the circumference eighteen feet seven inches. It is known to be upwards of two hundred years old.
[44] They were originally planned by the late Mr. Flower.
[46] The park and pleasure-grounds are computed to comprehend one thousand acres.
[55] The ancient family of Walpole derives its name from Walpole, St. Peter in Marshland, where its progenitors were settled before the Norman Conquest. The title of Earl of Orford, which was first borne by the celebrated Sir Robert Walpole, became extinct in 1797, on the death of Horatio, the third earl of his family, but was revived in 1806, in the person of his cousin, Horatio, second Baron Walpole, of Wolterton, whose father (the first baron,) purchased this estate about 1725.
[69] The Errata has been applied in this eBook.—DP.
***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A GUIDE TO CROMER AND ITS NEIGHBOURHOOD***
***** This file should be named 58122-h.htm or 58122-h.zip******
This and all associated files of various formats will be found in:
http://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/5/8/1/2/58122
Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions will
be renamed.
Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright
law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works,
so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United
States without permission and without paying copyright
royalties. Special rules, set forth in the General Terms of Use part
of this license, apply to copying and distributing Project
Gutenberg-tm electronic works to protect the PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm
concept and trademark. Project Gutenberg is a registered trademark,
and may not be used if you charge for the eBooks, unless you receive
specific permission. If you do not charge anything for copies of this
eBook, complying with the rules is very easy. You may use this eBook
for nearly any purpose such as creation of derivative works, reports,
performances and research. They may be modified and printed and given
away--you may do practically ANYTHING in the United States with eBooks
not protected by U.S. copyright law. Redistribution is subject to the
trademark license, especially commercial redistribution.
START: FULL LICENSE
THE FULL PROJECT GUTENBERG LICENSE
PLEASE READ THIS BEFORE YOU DISTRIBUTE OR USE THIS WORK
To protect the Project Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting the free
distribution of electronic works, by using or distributing this work
(or any other work associated in any way with the phrase "Project
Gutenberg"), you agree to comply with all the terms of the Full
Project Gutenberg-tm License available with this file or online at
www.gutenberg.org/license.
Section 1. General Terms of Use and Redistributing Project
Gutenberg-tm electronic works
1.A. By reading or using any part of this Project Gutenberg-tm
electronic work, you indicate that you have read, understand, agree to
and accept all the terms of this license and intellectual property
(trademark/copyright) agreement. If you do not agree to abide by all
the terms of this agreement, you must cease using and return or
destroy all copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in your
possession. If you paid a fee for obtaining a copy of or access to a
Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work and you do not agree to be bound
by the terms of this agreement, you may obtain a refund from the
person or entity to whom you paid the fee as set forth in paragraph
1.E.8.
1.B. "Project Gutenberg" is a registered trademark. It may only be
used on or associated in any way with an electronic work by people who
agree to be bound by the terms of this agreement. There are a few
things that you can do with most Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works
even without complying with the full terms of this agreement. See
paragraph 1.C below. There are a lot of things you can do with Project
Gutenberg-tm electronic works if you follow the terms of this
agreement and help preserve free future access to Project Gutenberg-tm
electronic works. See paragraph 1.E below.
1.C. The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation ("the
Foundation" or PGLAF), owns a compilation copyright in the collection
of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works. Nearly all the individual
works in the collection are in the public domain in the United
States. If an individual work is unprotected by copyright law in the
United States and you are located in the United States, we do not
claim a right to prevent you from copying, distributing, performing,
displaying or creating derivative works based on the work as long as
all references to Project Gutenberg are removed. Of course, we hope
that you will support the Project Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting
free access to electronic works by freely sharing Project Gutenberg-tm
works in compliance with the terms of this agreement for keeping the
Project Gutenberg-tm name associated with the work. You can easily
comply with the terms of this agreement by keeping this work in the
same format with its attached full Project Gutenberg-tm License when
you share it without charge with others.
1.D. The copyright laws of the place where you are located also govern
what you can do with this work. Copyright laws in most countries are
in a constant state of change. If you are outside the United States,
check the laws of your country in addition to the terms of this
agreement before downloading, copying, displaying, performing,
distributing or creating derivative works based on this work or any
other Project Gutenberg-tm work. The Foundation makes no
representations concerning the copyright status of any work in any
country outside the United States.
1.E. Unless you have removed all references to Project Gutenberg:
1.E.1. The following sentence, with active links to, or other
immediate access to, the full Project Gutenberg-tm License must appear
prominently whenever any copy of a Project Gutenberg-tm work (any work
on which the phrase "Project Gutenberg" appears, or with which the
phrase "Project Gutenberg" is associated) is accessed, displayed,
performed, viewed, copied or distributed:
This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and
most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no
restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it
under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included with this
eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the
United States, you'll have to check the laws of the country where you
are located before using this ebook.
1.E.2. If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is
derived from texts not protected by U.S. copyright law (does not
contain a notice indicating that it is posted with permission of the
copyright holder), the work can be copied and distributed to anyone in
the United States without paying any fees or charges. If you are
redistributing or providing access to a work with the phrase "Project
Gutenberg" associated with or appearing on the work, you must comply
either with the requirements of paragraphs 1.E.1 through 1.E.7 or
obtain permission for the use of the work and the Project Gutenberg-tm
trademark as set forth in paragraphs 1.E.8 or 1.E.9.
1.E.3. If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is posted
with the permission of the copyright holder, your use and distribution
must comply with both paragraphs 1.E.1 through 1.E.7 and any
additional terms imposed by the copyright holder. Additional terms
will be linked to the Project Gutenberg-tm License for all works
posted with the permission of the copyright holder found at the
beginning of this work.
1.E.4. Do not unlink or detach or remove the full Project Gutenberg-tm
License terms from this work, or any files containing a part of this
work or any other work associated with Project Gutenberg-tm.
1.E.5. Do not copy, display, perform, distribute or redistribute this
electronic work, or any part of this electronic work, without
prominently displaying the sentence set forth in paragraph 1.E.1 with
active links or immediate access to the full terms of the Project
Gutenberg-tm License.
1.E.6. You may convert to and distribute this work in any binary,
compressed, marked up, nonproprietary or proprietary form, including
any word processing or hypertext form. However, if you provide access
to or distribute copies of a Project Gutenberg-tm work in a format
other than "Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other format used in the official
version posted on the official Project Gutenberg-tm web site
(www.gutenberg.org), you must, at no additional cost, fee or expense
to the user, provide a copy, a means of exporting a copy, or a means
of obtaining a copy upon request, of the work in its original "Plain
Vanilla ASCII" or other form. Any alternate format must include the
full Project Gutenberg-tm License as specified in paragraph 1.E.1.
1.E.7. Do not charge a fee for access to, viewing, displaying,
performing, copying or distributing any Project Gutenberg-tm works
unless you comply with paragraph 1.E.8 or 1.E.9.
1.E.8. You may charge a reasonable fee for copies of or providing
access to or distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works
provided that
* You pay a royalty fee of 20% of the gross profits you derive from
the use of Project Gutenberg-tm works calculated using the method
you already use to calculate your applicable taxes. The fee is owed
to the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark, but he has
agreed to donate royalties under this paragraph to the Project
Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation. Royalty payments must be paid
within 60 days following each date on which you prepare (or are
legally required to prepare) your periodic tax returns. Royalty
payments should be clearly marked as such and sent to the Project
Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation at the address specified in
Section 4, "Information about donations to the Project Gutenberg
Literary Archive Foundation."
* You provide a full refund of any money paid by a user who notifies
you in writing (or by e-mail) within 30 days of receipt that s/he
does not agree to the terms of the full Project Gutenberg-tm
License. You must require such a user to return or destroy all
copies of the works possessed in a physical medium and discontinue
all use of and all access to other copies of Project Gutenberg-tm
works.
* You provide, in accordance with paragraph 1.F.3, a full refund of
any money paid for a work or a replacement copy, if a defect in the
electronic work is discovered and reported to you within 90 days of
receipt of the work.
* You comply with all other terms of this agreement for free
distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm works.
1.E.9. If you wish to charge a fee or distribute a Project
Gutenberg-tm electronic work or group of works on different terms than
are set forth in this agreement, you must obtain permission in writing
from both the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation and The
Project Gutenberg Trademark LLC, the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm
trademark. Contact the Foundation as set forth in Section 3 below.
1.F.
1.F.1. Project Gutenberg volunteers and employees expend considerable
effort to identify, do copyright research on, transcribe and proofread
works not protected by U.S. copyright law in creating the Project
Gutenberg-tm collection. Despite these efforts, Project Gutenberg-tm
electronic works, and the medium on which they may be stored, may
contain "Defects," such as, but not limited to, incomplete, inaccurate
or corrupt data, transcription errors, a copyright or other
intellectual property infringement, a defective or damaged disk or
other medium, a computer virus, or computer codes that damage or
cannot be read by your equipment.
1.F.2. LIMITED WARRANTY, DISCLAIMER OF DAMAGES - Except for the "Right
of Replacement or Refund" described in paragraph 1.F.3, the Project
Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation, the owner of the Project
Gutenberg-tm trademark, and any other party distributing a Project
Gutenberg-tm electronic work under this agreement, disclaim all
liability to you for damages, costs and expenses, including legal
fees. YOU AGREE THAT YOU HAVE NO REMEDIES FOR NEGLIGENCE, STRICT
LIABILITY, BREACH OF WARRANTY OR BREACH OF CONTRACT EXCEPT THOSE
PROVIDED IN PARAGRAPH 1.F.3. YOU AGREE THAT THE FOUNDATION, THE
TRADEMARK OWNER, AND ANY DISTRIBUTOR UNDER THIS AGREEMENT WILL NOT BE
LIABLE TO YOU FOR ACTUAL, DIRECT, INDIRECT, CONSEQUENTIAL, PUNITIVE OR
INCIDENTAL DAMAGES EVEN IF YOU GIVE NOTICE OF THE POSSIBILITY OF SUCH
DAMAGE.
1.F.3. LIMITED RIGHT OF REPLACEMENT OR REFUND - If you discover a
defect in this electronic work within 90 days of receiving it, you can
receive a refund of the money (if any) you paid for it by sending a
written explanation to the person you received the work from. If you
received the work on a physical medium, you must return the medium
with your written explanation. The person or entity that provided you
with the defective work may elect to provide a replacement copy in
lieu of a refund. If you received the work electronically, the person
or entity providing it to you may choose to give you a second
opportunity to receive the work electronically in lieu of a refund. If
the second copy is also defective, you may demand a refund in writing
without further opportunities to fix the problem.
1.F.4. Except for the limited right of replacement or refund set forth
in paragraph 1.F.3, this work is provided to you 'AS-IS', WITH NO
OTHER WARRANTIES OF ANY KIND, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING BUT NOT
LIMITED TO WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTABILITY OR FITNESS FOR ANY PURPOSE.
1.F.5. Some states do not allow disclaimers of certain implied
warranties or the exclusion or limitation of certain types of
damages. If any disclaimer or limitation set forth in this agreement
violates the law of the state applicable to this agreement, the
agreement shall be interpreted to make the maximum disclaimer or
limitation permitted by the applicable state law. The invalidity or
unenforceability of any provision of this agreement shall not void the
remaining provisions.
1.F.6. INDEMNITY - You agree to indemnify and hold the Foundation, the
trademark owner, any agent or employee of the Foundation, anyone
providing copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in
accordance with this agreement, and any volunteers associated with the
production, promotion and distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm
electronic works, harmless from all liability, costs and expenses,
including legal fees, that arise directly or indirectly from any of
the following which you do or cause to occur: (a) distribution of this
or any Project Gutenberg-tm work, (b) alteration, modification, or
additions or deletions to any Project Gutenberg-tm work, and (c) any
Defect you cause.
Section 2. Information about the Mission of Project Gutenberg-tm
Project Gutenberg-tm is synonymous with the free distribution of
electronic works in formats readable by the widest variety of
computers including obsolete, old, middle-aged and new computers. It
exists because of the efforts of hundreds of volunteers and donations
from people in all walks of life.
Volunteers and financial support to provide volunteers with the
assistance they need are critical to reaching Project Gutenberg-tm's
goals and ensuring that the Project Gutenberg-tm collection will
remain freely available for generations to come. In 2001, the Project
Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation was created to provide a secure
and permanent future for Project Gutenberg-tm and future
generations. To learn more about the Project Gutenberg Literary
Archive Foundation and how your efforts and donations can help, see
Sections 3 and 4 and the Foundation information page at
www.gutenberg.org
Section 3. Information about the Project Gutenberg Literary
Archive Foundation
The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation is a non profit
501(c)(3) educational corporation organized under the laws of the
state of Mississippi and granted tax exempt status by the Internal
Revenue Service. The Foundation's EIN or federal tax identification
number is 64-6221541. Contributions to the Project Gutenberg Literary
Archive Foundation are tax deductible to the full extent permitted by
U.S. federal laws and your state's laws.
The Foundation's principal office is in Fairbanks, Alaska, with the
mailing address: PO Box 750175, Fairbanks, AK 99775, but its
volunteers and employees are scattered throughout numerous
locations. Its business office is located at 809 North 1500 West, Salt
Lake City, UT 84116, (801) 596-1887. Email contact links and up to
date contact information can be found at the Foundation's web site and
official page at www.gutenberg.org/contact
For additional contact information:
Dr. Gregory B. Newby
Chief Executive and Director
gbnewby@pglaf.org
Section 4. Information about Donations to the Project Gutenberg
Literary Archive Foundation
Project Gutenberg-tm depends upon and cannot survive without wide
spread public support and donations to carry out its mission of
increasing the number of public domain and licensed works that can be
freely distributed in machine readable form accessible by the widest
array of equipment including outdated equipment. Many small donations
($1 to $5,000) are particularly important to maintaining tax exempt
status with the IRS.
The Foundation is committed to complying with the laws regulating
charities and charitable donations in all 50 states of the United
States. Compliance requirements are not uniform and it takes a
considerable effort, much paperwork and many fees to meet and keep up
with these requirements. We do not solicit donations in locations
where we have not received written confirmation of compliance. To SEND
DONATIONS or determine the status of compliance for any particular
state visit www.gutenberg.org/donate
While we cannot and do not solicit contributions from states where we
have not met the solicitation requirements, we know of no prohibition
against accepting unsolicited donations from donors in such states who
approach us with offers to donate.
International donations are gratefully accepted, but we cannot make
any statements concerning tax treatment of donations received from
outside the United States. U.S. laws alone swamp our small staff.
Please check the Project Gutenberg Web pages for current donation
methods and addresses. Donations are accepted in a number of other
ways including checks, online payments and credit card donations. To
donate, please visit: www.gutenberg.org/donate
Section 5. General Information About Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works.
Professor Michael S. Hart was the originator of the Project
Gutenberg-tm concept of a library of electronic works that could be
freely shared with anyone. For forty years, he produced and
distributed Project Gutenberg-tm eBooks with only a loose network of
volunteer support.
Project Gutenberg-tm eBooks are often created from several printed
editions, all of which are confirmed as not protected by copyright in
the U.S. unless a copyright notice is included. Thus, we do not
necessarily keep eBooks in compliance with any particular paper
edition.
Most people start at our Web site which has the main PG search
facility: www.gutenberg.org
This Web site includes information about Project Gutenberg-tm,
including how to make donations to the Project Gutenberg Literary
Archive Foundation, how to help produce our new eBooks, and how to
subscribe to our email newsletter to hear about new eBooks.