I
The Soup and Sauce Book
By ELIZABETH DOUGLAS.
Fcap. 8vo, cloth 2s. each.
I.
THE SOUP AND SAUCE BOOK.
II.
THE CAKE AND BISCUIT BOOK.
III.
THE PASTRY AND SWEET BOOK.
London: GRANT RICHARDS.
By
Elizabeth Douglas
London
Grant Richards
48 Leicester Square
[Pg v]
The English—to their loss—are not a soup-eating nation; and for the most part, those of us that do care for soups are obstinately conservative in our tastes. The ordinary restaurant thinks it has done its duty when ox-tail, mock-turtle and tomato soup have been included in the bill of fare. Yet the range of soups is very wide, as the hundred pages of recipes (by no means exhaustive) that follow will show; and that they may lead some readers to add to the elasticity of the domestic menu, is the ambition of the compiler. All are good, few are expensive, and none exotic. I should like it to be understood also that the directions need not be considered absolutely final. Every recipe can be made the basis of mild experiment, by slight differences in the ingredients or quantities. Two final remarks: soup never ought to be served in large quantities (our tendency in England when we take it is to take too much); and in the preparation of it the first and last word is “simmer.”
E. D.
[Pg vi]
[Pg vii]
Hot Sauces for Fish | 112-116 |
Hot Sauces for Roasts, Steaks, Cutlets, etc. | 118-124 |
Hot Sauces for Fowls, Ducks, Rabbits, etc. | 126-130 |
Hot Sauces for Game, etc. | 132-135 |
Cold Sauces | 137-141 |
Index | 143-146 |
[Pg 1]
Stock is the basis of all soups, except those which the French call potages maigres, which have no meat in them. For clear soups the stock is a good consommé, which must be made absolutely clear, and without any fat. For thick white soups, chicken or veal stock is used. For brown thick soups, a dark stock. For purées, white or brown stock, according to their colour.
Stock will keep for several days—in winter for a week.
A tea-spoonful of Liebig’s Extract of Meat will greatly improve the flavour of a poor stock.
Utensils.—Of special utensils for making soup, porcelain-lined sauce-pans are the most satisfactory, and should always be used if possible. There is nothing so good or clean as the large French pot au feu, which can be bought in Soho. Earthenware sauce-pans are also good.
It saves trouble when straining soup to have a large deep bowl or jar, and a colander or wire sieve which fits perfectly into it.
Wooden or silver spoons should be used.
The fire.—In making stock it is most important[Pg 2] to have a steady fire, which need not be interfered with, so that an even temperature may be kept. Stock should be allowed to come slowly to the boil, and then be set back to simmer so gently that bubbles rise from one side only of the pot.
To prepare fresh meat for stock.—Look over the meat carefully. Cut away any part which is in the slightest degree tainted. Wipe the meat over with a clean cloth that has been dipped in cold water and wrung out. Cut the meat off the bones. Cut it into small pieces. Break the bones. If there is any marrow, take it out and spread it on the bottom of the pot that is to be used.
Vegetables.—In hot weather it is better to make stock without vegetables, as they often turn it sour.
See that all vegetables used are perfectly clean. Cut them in two or three pieces if to be used for flavouring stock. If they are to be served with the soup, cut them regularly and carefully to the size required, and do not cook them in the soup for more than half-an-hour, or their flavour will be impaired.
Vegetables should be added in the proportion of about one carrot, one onion (or leek), half a turnip, a piece of celery, to every quart of stock. In the onion can be stuck a clove.
[Pg 3]
Herbs.—To flavour stock with herbs, it is best to use a bouquet (i.e. a small bunch of mixed herbs, a sprig or leaf each of sage, thyme, marjoram bay and parsley). This can be easily taken out of the soups before serving. If ground herbs are used, add about a tea-spoonful of mixed herbs to every quart of stock.
Seasoning.—It is not necessary to season the original stock. In making it into different soups, the seasoning is of course a matter of taste; but, roughly speaking, to each quart may be put one small tea-spoonful of salt, two pepper-corns, or half a salt-spoon of ground pepper, and one clove.
To remove fat from stock.—Every particle of fat must be removed from the stock from which clear soups are to be made. With stock which is to be thickened it is not so necessary to be particular, as the flour used for the purpose will absorb a good deal of fat. With broths, which should be particularly nourishing, it is merely a matter of taste how much fat is removed.
To remove fat from stock it is best to let it first become quite cold. The fat will then become quite solid, and can easily be removed with a knife. To remove the small particles which may still be left, dip a cloth in hot water, wring it out, and pass it over the stock. It will absorb all the fat.
[Pg 4]
If there is not time to allow the stock to cool first, a great deal of fat can be absorbed by tissue paper, which should be laid over it. Or it can be strained two or three times through cloths which have been put in very cold water and wrung out.
To clarify stock for clear soups.—The addition of a little cold water to boiling stock will cause the scum to rise quickly. This can be done several times, and if thoroughly strained the stock should be clear.
To clarify soup more effectually, although the flavour is not improved by doing so, the white and shell of an egg are used. To every quart of stock (and it must be cold) add the white and broken shell of an egg. Beat together. Put in the pot, stir continually until hot. Then let it boil, untouched, for about ten minutes. Set back on the oven, throw in half a cup of cold water, and allow it to stand for ten minutes. Place a colander over the bowl, and when you are ready to strain the soup, put over the colander a napkin which has been dipped in very hot water and then wrung out. Let it drain through slowly, without any pressure, shifting the napkin gently if any part becomes clogged.
Straining.—It is well, as I have said, to have a large, deep bowl, with a colander or strainer that fits tightly into it. Put a napkin or muslin over[Pg 5] the colander, and take the soup out of the sauce-pan with a cup or ladle. Let it drain about a quarter of an hour without any pressure.
The napkins and muslin used for straining may be old, but must be fine and absolutely clean and sweet.
[Pg 6]
PAGE | |
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Brown Soup Stock | 7 |
Common Stock | 7 |
Clear Brown Stock | 8 |
Consommé | 9 |
Chicken Stock | 9 |
Veal Stock | 10 |
Economical Stock | 10 |
[Pg 7]
1 lb. shin of beef
1 quart cold water
Two or three vegetables
Cut the meat up into small pieces. Put it in a sauce-pan, and add the water. Allow it to stand for half-an-hour. Then put it on the fire. Let it come to the boil slowly. Simmer for two hours. Strain.
3 lbs. shin of beef
1 lb. bones
3 quarts cold water
2 carrots, 1 turnip
2 stalks of celery
3 onions
3 cloves
Bouquet of herbs
Cut the meat into small pieces. Break the bones. Put three ounces of butter in a sauce-pan. When melted, add to it one-third of the meat and the onions sliced. Stew gently until a rich brown. Put with the rest of the meat, bones, etc., in a[Pg 8] sauce-pan. Cover with water. Bring to the boil. Simmer four hours. Strain.
2 lbs. shin of beef
1 lb. knuckle of veal
The carcase and bones of a fowl
3 pints of water
1 carrot
1 onion with a clove stuck in it
1 stick of celery
1 piece of parsley
A small bouquet of herbs
Put the bones at the bottom of a sauce-pan. Place the meat, which should be cut up in small pieces, upon them. Cover with cold water. Leave the sauce-pan uncovered. Bring to the boil very slowly. When it boils throw in a half cup of cold water. (This will cause the scum to rise.) Skim. Bring to the boil again. Throw in a little more cold water. Skim. Bring to the boil. Add the vegetables. Set back on the fire, and allow it to simmer gently for three or four hours.
Strain through a napkin into a bowl and allow it to cool.
If required the soup can be further clarified (p. 4).
[Pg 9]
1 lb. shin of beef
1 lb. veal
The bones and carcases of fowls or game
2 quarts of stock
Vegetables
The white of an egg
Cut away all fat from the meat. Chop it up finely. Put the white of an egg in a basin. Add to it the chopped meat. Mix them well together with a silver spoon. Stir in a glass of cold water. Put the meat into a large sauce-pan. Add vegetables, the bones and carcases of birds. Cover with two quarts of good stock. Bring to the boil, stirring occasionally to prevent the meat from sticking to the sauce-pan.
When it boils, set back to simmer gently for three hours. Dip a napkin in hot water, wring it out, and strain the stock through it into a basin.
1 old fowl
1 quart water
1 carrot
1 stick of celery
1 small onion
Put the fowl and vegetables into a stew-pan, adding the bones or carcase of another fowl if[Pg 10] possible. Cover with cold water, or weak clear stock. Let it boil up slowly and simmer for three hours. Skim. Pass the stock through a napkin, and set aside to cool.
1 lb. knuckle of veal
Chicken bones or carcases
1 quart of water
Vegetables
1 blade of mace
1 clove
Cut up the veal. Break the bones. Add vegetables and spice. Cover with the water. Bring slowly to the boil. Simmer for two or three hours. Strain.
An excellent although not very clear stock can be made from odds and ends of cooked meat and bones. For this purpose there should be an enamelled pot with a lightly fitting lid, and it should practically be kept in use continually.
[Pg 11]
Spread the bottom of the pot with butter, or marrow. Pack in pieces of meat, bone, gristle, the carcases of birds, two or three vegetables cut up in small pieces, two cloves, and a bouquet of herbs.
Cover the meat, etc., with cold water. Put on the lid. Heat slowly, and when it boils set back to simmer for four or five hours.
In preparing meat for this stock, look it over carefully; reject any piece which is not perfectly good, also all stuffing, skin, smoked or burnt pieces. A little beef fat can always be retained, but mutton fat should not be used as it is rank in flavour. Scrape the meat off the bones, and break the bones in small pieces.
A slice or two of lean ham, the gravy saved from any kind of roast, a little fresh meat finely chopped will greatly improve this stock.
[Pg 12]
Utensils and Fire.—The remarks on pages 1 and 2 concerning the utensils and fire for making stock, apply also to the preparation of soups from stock.
To thicken soups with flour only.—Mix flour or cornflour with a little cold water, milk or stock until perfectly smooth. Add more water or milk. Strain. Pour slowly into the soup, which should be nearly boiling. Let it come to a boil. Continue boiling for ten minutes (stirring all the time), or it will taste of flour. About one table-spoon of flour should be used to thicken each quart of stock.
To thicken soups with butter and flour (roux).—Melt some butter. Skim it till quite clear. Pour it into an earthenware sauce-pan, and add to it its weight in flour. Work with a wooden spoon until perfectly smooth. Stir over a fire for a few minutes. Then put it in a moderate oven. Stir occasionally, and be very particular that it does not colour or burn. It should be left in the oven from thirty to forty-five minutes. This thickening, which is called white roux, is used for white[Pg 13] soups. Brown roux for brown soups is made in the same way, but is left in the oven until slightly coloured. It will keep for some time.
When adding roux to soups it is best first to melt it in a small sauce-pan, to thin it with a little hot stock, and then to add it gradually to the soups.
If the roux has not been prepared beforehand, the quantity required can be made in a short time by cooking the flour and butter together in a sauce-pan for five minutes for white roux or longer for brown roux. It should be stirred all the time.
A heaping table-spoon (or more) of roux should be added to every quart of soup to be thickened.
Cornflour and roux.—The advantage of roux over cornflour is that the flour used in preparing the roux having been already cooked, it is not necessary to continue boiling the soups to which it is added, whereas cornflour being raw, the soups thickened by it must be boiled for some little time.
To colour soups.—The colour of soups can be deepened by using caramel colouring, or glaze (see next page) (which will also add to their flavour).
Caramel colouring.—Put half a pound of brown or white sugar in an iron sauce-pan, with a table-spoonful of water. Stir over a very gentle fire until it turns a deep, rich brown colour. Add[Pg 14] half a pint of boiling water. Let it simmer very gently for twenty minutes. Allow it to get cold. Put it into bottles and cork. This makes an excellent and tasteless colouring, but it must be carefully made. The rich brown colour comes from slow and gentle cooking. If it is burnt and black it is useless.
Add to the soup a few minutes only before serving.
Glaze.—Glaze is made by boiling down good stock until it is of a very thick and gluey consistency. Put a quart of rich stock into a sauce-pan over a good fire. Leave it uncovered, and boil it until it is reduced to half a pint. Let it cool. Put it in a jar or bottle. Cover closely, and keep in a cool place. This will keep for two or three weeks.
Adding vegetables and meat to soups.—Whenever vegetables or meats have to be passed through a sieve or tammy, it will be found easier to do so if the pulp is kept continually well moistened with stock or milk (according to the soup which is being made).
Wine and catsup.—Wine and catsup should always be added as late as possible, as they lose in flavour by being boiled.
[Pg 15]
PAGE | |
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Brunoise | 16 |
Consommé with poached eggs | 16 |
Croûte au pot | 17 |
” ” gratinée | 18 |
Game Soup | 18 |
Imperial Soup | 19 |
Julienne | 20 |
Macaroni | 20 |
Spring Soup | 21 |
Vermicelli | 22 |
Clear Soups with quenelles | 22 |
[Pg 16]
3 pints strong consommé
1 carrot
1 turnip
1 leek
1 onion
1 stick of celery
1 small tea-cupful freshly cooked peas
” ” ” ” asparagus points
” ” ” ” French beans
Cut the carrot, turnip, leek, onion and celery into small dice-shaped pieces, using the red outer part of the carrot only. Fry them in butter until a light brown. Add them to the consommé, and after it has come to the boil, simmer gently until the vegetables are perfectly tender. Skim from time to time. Season. Add the cooked peas, beans and asparagus points. The beans should be cut into diamond-shaped pieces.
6 eggs
1 quart consommé
Break the eggs carefully into boiling water, taking care that they do not run into each other.[Pg 17] Cook until firmly set, but not hard. Take them out, put them on a dish, and trim neatly. Put them in a soup tureen and gently pour over them the hot consommé. Finely chopped and cooked vegetables may be added to the consommé.
1 quart clear brown stock
¹⁄₄ of a white cabbage
1 carrot
¹⁄₂ a turnip
A little celery
2 thin slices of bread
Cut the celery, carrot and turnip into small equal pieces. Cut up the heart of the cabbage, and cook separately in salted water. Put the vegetables in a sauce-pan. Pour the stock over them. Simmer until tender. Add the cabbage. Season. Simmer for a few minutes. Toast the bread. Cut it into several pieces. Put them in a soup tureen. Pour the vegetables and stock over them. Serve. Grated parmesan can be served with this soup.
[Pg 18]
1 quart clear brown stock
1 tea-cup of mixed cooked vegetables cut in small pieces
4 small dinner rolls
Take out the crumb from the inside of three or four rolls. Put the crusts in an earthenware sauce-pan, and cover with a little clear brown stock. Let them simmer over a gentle fire until they have absorbed all the stock. Then put them in the oven until they are crisp, being very careful that they do not burn. Place them in a soup tureen with the cooked vegetables. Pour the well-seasoned boiling stock over them.
1 calf’s foot
1 or 2 birds (game), or the carcases and bones of several
1 slice lean ham
2 carrots
1 onion
1 piece of celery
1 sprig parsley
1 bay leaf
Thyme
2 cloves
1 blade of mace
2 quarts of water
1 glass of sherry
Clean and cut up the calf’s foot. Put in a stew-pan with one or two whole birds (game), or[Pg 19] the carcases and bones of several, a small piece of lean ham, the vegetables, herbs, etc. Cover with 2 quarts of water. Bring to the boil. Skim. Simmer for three hours. Season. Strain. When cold clarify with white of egg (p. 4). Before serving add a glass of sherry, and two dozen small quenelles of game (p. 105).
1 quart clear consommé
1 gill consommé
4 yolks of eggs
Nutmeg
Salt
Beat the yolks in a basin. Add a little salt and nutmeg. Stir in the consommé. Strain through a fine hair sieve into a shallow plain mould. Put it into a pan of boiling water, and steam until it sets. Turn out carefully on to a wet napkin. Cut into fancy or square shapes. Half of the mixture can, if wished, be coloured green with spinach colouring (p. 104). Place the custards carefully in a tureen, and pour the hot consommé over them.
[Pg 20]
2 large carrots
1 turnip
1 piece of celery
1 small onion
¹⁄₄ white cabbage
1 lettuce
A little sorrel
1 quart consommé
2 ozs. butter
Cut all the vegetables into thin shreds of equal length (about one inch). Use the red outer part of the carrots only, and the hearts of the lettuce and cabbage. Wash the sorrel and cabbage separately, and set aside. Put two ounces of butter and a salt-spoon of powdered sugar in a sauce-pan, add to it all the vegetables except the cabbage and sorrel. Let them turn a fine yellow, but be careful not to burn. Add the consommé. Bring to the boil. Drain. Season. Set back to simmer until the vegetables are tender. Then add the cabbage and sorrel, a leaf of tarragon and chervil. Simmer another ten minutes and serve.
1 quart stock
¹⁄₂ pint macaroni
Cook the macaroni in boiling salted water half-an-hour. Drain. Pour cold water through the[Pg 21] macaroni to prevent its sticking together. Put the sticks on a board and cut it, either very finely to make rings, or in half-inch pieces. Bring stock to the boil. Add the macaroni. Season.
2 carrots
1 turnip
¹⁄₂ a head of celery
10 small onions
1 tea-cup of cauliflower cut into little branches
Heart of a small white cabbage-lettuce
A small handful of sorrel
A leaf of chervil and of tarragon
¹⁄₄ pint peas
¹⁄₄ pint asparagus points
¹⁄₄ pint croûtons
1 quart consommé
Cut the carrots and turnip into small rounds or olive-shaped pieces. Add them, with the chopped up celery, whole onions and cauliflower, to a quart of consommé or chicken stock. Bring it to the boil. Simmer for half-an-hour. Stamp the sorrel and lettuce into small round pieces. Add them, with a leaf of chervil and of tarragon and a tea-spoon of sugar, to the soup. When all the vegetables are tender add a quarter of a pint of young peas and the same quantity of asparagus heads both freshly cooked. Serve with croûtons (see p. 103).
[Pg 22]
¹⁄₄ lb. vermicelli
1 quart consommé
Break up the vermicelli in small pieces. Put it in cold water. Bring it to the boil, and boil it for four minutes. Drain it. Pour cold water through it. Put it in a sauce-pan with the consommé, which should be very clear, strong and well seasoned. Let it boil up. Skim. Simmer until the vermicelli is tender.
Serve with grated parmesan in a separate dish.
Clear soups can also be served with Italian paste, forcemeat balls, quenelles, rice, etc. For recipes for these see pages 103-108.
[Pg 23]
PAGE | |
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Brown Soup | 24 |
Cream of Pearl Barley | 25 |
Cream of Rice | 25 |
Giblet Soup | 26 |
Hare Soup | 27 |
Left-over Soup | 28 |
Mock-Turtle | 29 |
Mulligatawny | 30 |
Ox-tail | 31 |
Venison Soup | 33 |
[Pg 24]
The water in which a joint of mutton has been boiled
1 carrot
1 onion
1 turnip
1 head of celery
¹⁄₂ pint cooked young peas
Brown roux
1 ounce of butter
1 tea-spoonful Liebig’s Extract of Meat
1 lump sugar
Boil down the water to one quart. Allow it to cool. Remove the fat carefully. Cut the vegetables into small equal pieces. Fry them a rich brown in one ounce of butter. Put the stock on the fire again. Add the vegetables and sugar. Simmer until they are tender. Add the peas. Simmer for quarter of an hour. Thicken with brown roux (see p. 12). Simmer another fifteen minutes. A few minutes before serving add a little caramel colouring (see p. 13) and the Liebig’s Extract.
[Pg 25]
¹⁄₂ lb. pearl barley
1 quart chicken stock
1 gill cream
Wash the barley thoroughly. Throw it into boiling water and let it boil quickly for ten minutes. Drain it. Pour cold water through it to separate the barley. Put the stock in a sauce-pan. Add the barley to it. Simmer for four hours—or until the barley is very tender. Set aside a little of the barley to add whole to the stock. Put the rest through a tammy. Add it to the stock with the whole barley. Season. Scald a gill of cream. Add to the soup.
If preferred the barley may be cooked separately in water.
¹⁄₄ lb. Carolina rice
1 quart chicken stock
1 gill cream
1 tea-spoon of butter
Wash the rice and boil it several minutes in water. Drain. Add it to the stock. Simmer[Pg 26] until the rice is tender. Rub through a tammy. Just before serving mix with the soup a gill of cream and a tea-spoonful of butter.
A little whole rice which has been boiled in chicken broth can be added to the soup, or it can be served with a dozen small quenelles of chicken (see p. 105).
1 set of giblets
1 whole onion
1 chopped onion
Grated rind of the third of a lemon
A few drops of lemon juice
1 oz. butter
1 table-spoon flour
1 glass white wine
Small bouquet of herbs
2 cloves
1 quart of stock
Scald and cut in pieces a set of giblets. Put in a sauce-pan with a quart of good stock, a whole onion stuck with two cloves and the lemon rind. Simmer until the giblets are very tender. Strain off the stock. Make a brown roux of the butter and flour (see p. 12). Add it to the stock with the herbs and an onion chopped fine. Boil hard for ten minutes. Strain[Pg 27] through a fine sieve. Add a glass of white wine. Season with cayenne, salt, and a few drops of lemon juice.
A large fresh hare
2 onions
1 carrot
2 pieces of celery
Bouquet of herbs
4 cloves
4 pepper-corns
Cayenne
1 glass of port
2 quarts of cold water
Cut a perfectly fresh hare into pieces, being careful to save all the blood. Let the pieces soak in two quarts of cold water in a stew-pan for an hour. Add the blood, and set on the fire. Bring to the boil, stirring and skimming frequently. Add the vegetables, herbs, spices and pepper-corns. Simmer gently for two or three hours. Strain off the liquid. Cut the meat from the bones. Set aside some of the best to be cut into small pieces. Pound the rest in a mortar and put through a tammy (see p. 60). Return to the sauce-pan with the stock. When it boils season highly, add a glass of port[Pg 28] wine, and the small pieces of hare which have been reserved. Serve. Force-meat balls (see p. 104) may be added also.
Bones and trimmings of a 6 lb. roast of beef
1 mutton chop
¹⁄₂ lb. fresh gravy beef
2 quarts cold water
2 cloves
2 pepper-corns
1 baked apple
¹⁄₂ cup of cold boiled onions
2 pieces of celery
Bouquet of herbs
1 cup cooked tomato, or 1 cup boiled macaroni
Cut up the meat. Break the bones. Put in a stew-pan with the cold water, vegetables, spices and apple. Bring to the boil. Simmer for two or three hours. Strain. Set aside to cool. Remove fat. When required heat to boiling point. Season. Add the tomato or macaroni.
[Pg 29]
1 calf’s head
1 old fowl (partly roasted)
1 knuckle of veal
3 slices raw ham
2 quarts of stock
Carrots, celery, green onions
¹⁄₂ lb. mushrooms
4 shallots
A large bouquet of parsley, thyme, bay-leaf, sweet basil and marjoram
8 cloves
2 blades of mace
¹⁄₂ pint sherry
Tea-spoonful lemon juice
White roux
Scald a calf’s head. Bone it. (Do this by making a sharp incision down to the bone from the back of the head to the nose and peeling back the flesh on each side with a knife.) Put the head in a sauce-pan. Cover it with cold water. Boil it for quarter of an hour, skimming from time to time. Then take it out and put it in a basin full of cold water.
Butter the bottom of a large stock-pot. Put in it an old fowl partly roasted (of which the breast is kept back for forcemeat balls), a knuckle of veal, the ham, and two quarts of good stock. Boil quickly until the stock is reduced to one pint. Set back to simmer gently for half-an-hour. Fill up the stock-pot with water.
Take the head out of the water. Pare away any rough parts in the mouth. Put in the[Pg 30] stock-pot. Bring to the boil. Skim thoroughly. Add the vegetables, spices and bouquet. Simmer gently until the head is tender. Remove the head. Strain the broth. When the meat is cool cut it up into small squares (reserving a little for forcemeat balls).
Thicken the stock with light-coloured roux (p. 12). Let it boil up. Skim off the butter that comes to the surface. Add half a pint of sherry. Season with cayenne. Add a tea-spoonful of lemon juice, and the pieces of calf’s head. Boil ten minutes. Add two or three dozen forcemeat balls (see p. 104).
2 chickens (or 2 rabbits)
2 quarts veal stock
2 carrots
4 onions
1 head of celery and
2 pieces of celery
A bouquet of herbs and parsley
2 table-spoons flour
1 table-spoon curry powder
1 ” ” paste
¹⁄₂ lb. Patna rice
¹⁄₄ lb. butter
Cut up the chickens or rabbits into small pieces. Put them in a sauce-pan with a quart of good veal stock and a carrot, turnip, apple, parsley, and a bouquet of herbs. Bring to the boil and simmer gently until the meat is tender, stirring[Pg 31] from time to time. Strain off the stock. Cut the meat from the bones, and set aside to cool.
Fry three onions, a carrot, and a head of celery (all finely sliced) very slowly in a quarter of a pound of butter until they are a rich golden brown. Add two table-spoons of flour. Stir in till smooth. Add a table-spoon of curry powder, and the same quantity of curry paste. Season with cayenne and salt. Add the vegetables to the stock, and add more veal stock if required. Let it boil up. Skim. Simmer half-an-hour very gently. Put through a tammy. Pour over the meat of the chickens or rabbits (which should be cut into neat pieces). Heat gently, and simmer for another ten minutes. If desired half a pint of scalded cream can be added just before serving. Serve with plain boiled Patna rice (see p. 106).
1 ox tail
2 quarts water or stock
1 onion
2 carrots
2 ozs. butter
1 head of celery
2 cloves
2 pepper-corns
Blade of mace
A lump of sugar
¹⁄₂ a pint of mixed parboiled vegetables
Wash the ox tail and cut it up into joints. Lay these in cold water for two hours. Slice[Pg 32] finely a large onion and two carrots. Melt two ounces of butter in a sauce-pan and fry the onion and carrots in it. When they are slightly browned add the ox tail. Brown it a little. Put the vegetables and ox tail in a stock-pot. Add the celery finely cut up. Cover with two quarts of water or beef stock. Add the spice and seasoning. Bring to the boil. Skim thoroughly. Simmer until the meat separates from the bone and the gristle is quite soft. Strain through a napkin.
Cut the best of the meat into pieces. Put them into a stew-pan. Add the strained stock, half a pint of mixed parboiled vegetables cut in small rounds, or olive-shaped, a lump of sugar and more pepper if required. Heat and simmer until vegetables are tender.
The vegetables should be shaped with a vegetable cutter, and are best parboiled in a little stock.
Ox-tail soup may be thickened by a purée of carrots, turnips, peas or lentils. The purée is made by boiling whichever vegetable is required until very tender, and pressing it through a sieve or tammy. Add it to the strained stock and mix well.
[Pg 33]
1¹⁄₂ lbs. venison
¹⁄₂ lb. salt pork or raw ham
1 onion
¹⁄₂ a head of celery
1 blade of mace
6 pepper-corns
Brown roux
1 table-spoon Worcester sauce
1 ” Mushroom ketchup
1 glass Madeira or brown sherry
Cut up the meat and vegetables. Put them in a stew-pan. Add just enough water to cover them. Stew them slowly, with the lid on, for an hour. Add nearly a quart of boiling water, the mace and pepper-corns. Simmer for two hours. Strain. Season. Thicken with brown roux (one table-spoon butter, one table-spoon flour, see p. 12). Add the Worcester sauce, mushroom ketchup, and wine.
[Pg 34]
PAGE | |
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Artichoke Soup | 35 |
Asparagus Soup | 35 |
Cauliflower Soup | 36 |
Celery Soup | 36 |
Chestnut Soup | 37 |
Green Pea Soup | 37 |
Mushroom Soup | 38 |
Polish Soup | 39 |
Tomato Soup | 39 |
[Pg 35]
4 artichokes
2 ozs. butter
1 quart white stock
1 cup cream or milk
1 tea-spoon sugar
Wash and peel the artichokes. Cut them in slices. Put the butter in a sauce-pan. Melt it. Add the artichokes. Allow them to simmer until tender, but be careful not to let them brown. Add the boiling stock and a tea-spoon of sugar. Simmer for half-an-hour. Rub through a tammy. Heat again. Season. At the last minute add a cup of boiling cream or milk.
1 lb. veal
1 quart water
1 large bundle of asparagus
1 table-spoon flour
1 gill of cream
Cut off the stalks of the asparagus. Put them in a stew-pan with the veal (which should be cut up) and water. Bring to the boil. Skim. Simmer for three hours. Strain off the broth. Add the[Pg 36] asparagus heads. Season. Boil for twenty minutes. Thicken with a table-spoon of cornflour rubbed smooth in a gill of cream. Boil for ten minutes. Serve with croûtons (see p. 103).
1 quart white stock
1 table-spoon chopped onion
1 pint milk or cream
1 boiled cauliflower
Boil the milk or cream with the onion. Heat the stock. Rub half of the cauliflower through a sieve. Add it to the stock. Add the boiling milk (which has been strained off the onions). Season. Add table-spoonful butter in small pieces, and the rest of the cauliflower cut in small branches.
If wished the soup can be slightly thickened with a table-spoon of white roux. (See p. 12).
1 quart white stock
4 heads of celery
2 table-spoons white roux
1 gill cream
Put three heads of celery into the stock, and boil until very tender. Strain off the soup, and[Pg 37] return to the sauce-pan. Add the fourth head of celery finely cut. Simmer till tender. Thicken with the white roux. Scald a gill of cream and add to the soup. Season and serve.
2 lbs. chestnuts
1 pint consommé
1 pint cream
Boil the chestnuts until tender. Remove shells and peel them whole. Save ten whole, rub all the rest through a fine sieve.
Heat the consommé. Scald the cream. Mix together. Season with salt and pepper. Add the chestnuts. Stir until well mixed, but do not allow the soup to boil. Just before serving cut up the ten chestnuts into small pieces and add to the soup.
1 quart water
1 lb. shin of beef
1 quart young green peas
1 table-spoon flour
1 sprig of mint
Wash and boil the empty pea-pods, with a piece of mint, in a quart of salted water for an[Pg 38] hour. Skim. Strain off the pods. Add them to the meat (cut in small pieces) in a sauce-pan. Simmer gently for an hour-and-a-half. Strain off the stock. Season. Add the shelled peas to it. Boil gently for twenty minutes. Add the flour mixed smooth with a little of the stock, and the parsley. Boil for ten minutes.
1 lb. fresh small mushrooms
1 pint rich milk or cream
1 pint consommé
1 table-spoon flour
1 table-spoon butter
Set aside twelve mushrooms. Cut them in half. Cook separately. Chop the rest into small pieces and fry in the butter, adding a table-spoonful of flour and mixing until perfectly smooth. Put in a stew-pan and add the scalded milk or cream, and the boiling consommé. Simmer for quarter of an hour. Season. Rub through a sieve. Strain through muslin. Heat again very gently. Add the cooked mushrooms, and do not allow it to boil.
[Pg 39]
1 beet-root
2 onions
1 quart brown stock
1 glass red wine
1 cup thick cream
Cut up the beet-root and onions in small pieces. Put them in a sauce-pan, and pour over them the stock, which should be very rich and of a good dark colour. Bring to a boil and simmer for an hour-and-a-half. Put through a tammy. Put back on the fire, add the wine. Season with salt, pepper and cayenne. Heat well, but do not allow it to boil. Just before serving add the cream, which should be scalded. Or the cream may be served separately, in which case it should be cold.
1 quart of stock
1 tea-spoonful sugar
¹⁄₂ a tin of tomatoes
1 onion
1 tea-spoonful butter
Slice the onion. Fry it in the butter. Add it to the tomatoes. Heat them in a sauce-pan, and[Pg 40] allow them to simmer for fifteen minutes. Rub through a sieve. Put to the stock. Season and add a lump of sugar. Heat. Serve with croûtons.
[Pg 41]
PAGE | |
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Artichoke Soup | 42 |
Carrot Soup | 42 |
Celery Cream | 43 |
Mock Bisque | 44 |
Portuguese Soup | 44 |
Potato Cream | 45 |
Potato Soup | 46 |
Sorrel Soup | 46 |
Summer Soup | 47 |
Tomato Soup | 47 |
[Pg 42]
4 artichokes
1 pint water
1 pint milk
1 onion
Boil the artichokes in a pint of water. Mash them. Press them through a sieve, and mix them again with the water in which they were boiled.
Boil an onion in the milk. Remove the onion. Add the milk to the artichokes. Bring to the boil. Season. Serve with croûtons (see p. 103).
3 large carrots
1 onion
1 quart cold water
2 ozs. of butter
¹⁄₂ a pint milk or cream
1 table-spoon flour
1 tea-spoon powdered sugar
Scrape the carrots and slice them finely, rejecting the hard yellow inside. Put them in a[Pg 43] sauce-pan with a quart of cold water. Simmer gently for three quarters of an hour. Slice the onion, and fry it a light brown in the butter. Add it to the carrots, and put all through a fine sieve. Put the purée into a sauce-pan with the water in which the carrots were cooked. Thicken with the flour. Stir continually. Allow it to boil for five minutes. Season. Add a tea-spoonful powdered sugar. Just before serving add half a pint of scalded milk or cream.
1 head celery
1 pint water
1 pint milk or cream
1 table-spoon chopped onion
2 table-spoons white roux
Wash the celery. Cut it into small pieces. Throw it into one pint boiling salted water. Boil till very tender. Put through a sieve, and return to the water in which it was cooked. Boil the milk with the onion. Strain. Add the milk to the celery. Bring to the boil again. Stir in the white roux (p. 12). Season. Boil five minutes. Strain into soup tureen.
[Pg 44]
¹⁄₂ tin of tomatoes
1 quart milk
2 ozs. butter
1 table-spoon white roux
¹⁄₂ salt-spoon carbonate of soda
Stew the tomatoes until very soft. Add the carbonate of soda and sugar. Put through a fine sieve. Set in a small sauce-pan on the fire to keep hot. Heat the milk, thicken it with white roux (flour and butter, see p. 12). Let it boil a few minutes, stirring continually. Season. Add the tomatoes and serve immediately. (The tomatoes should not be added until actually ready to serve.)
3 tomatoes
1 Spanish onion
A small bunch of herbs
2 large slices of stale bread
1 oz. grated cheese (parmesan)
1 quart hot water
1 oz. butter
Cut up the tomatoes and onions. Fry a light brown in butter. Put them in a stew-pan and[Pg 45] cover with a quart of hot water. Let it boil, and then stand aside to simmer for half-an-hour. Strain off the liquid. Rub the vegetables through a coarse sieve. Return to the fire, season, and make very hot. Break up the bread and put it in the bottom of a hot soup tureen. Sprinkle a little of the grated cheese upon it. Pour the soup over it. Sprinkle the rest of the cheese on the soup.
1 pint milk
1 gill cream
2 potatoes
1 onion
1 tea-cup cooked French beans
1 dessert-spoonful chopped cooked carrot
1 tea-spoon Liebig’s extract
1 small table-spoon white roux
Boil the potatoes and onion. Put them through a sieve. Add them to the milk, which should be boiling. Add the white roux (see p. 12), the Liebig (diluted with a little water) and seasoning. Stir for a minute or two. Cut the French beans into small pieces. Add them and the very finely chopped carrot to the soup. Stir in the scalded cream.
[Pg 46]
3 potatoes
1 quart milk
1 table-spoon chopped onion
A little celery or ¹⁄₂ a tea-spoon celery salt
1 table-spoon white roux
1 table-spoon chopped parsley
Peel the potatoes. Soak them in cold water for half-an-hour. Cook them in boiling water until soft. Drain off the water. Put the potatoes through a sieve. Boil the milk with the onion and celery (or celery salt). Strain. Add to the potatoes. Stir in the white roux (see p. 12). Season. Boil for five minutes. Add the parsley.
1 handful of sorrel
1 pint of water
1 tea-cup cream or milk
Bread
Wash and prepare a handful of sorrel. Put it in a sauce-pan with the butter and a pint of water. Season. Boil gently for a quarter of an hour. Add a little cream or milk. Put several very thin slices of bread in the soup tureen, and pour the soup over them.
Rice or tapioca can be added to the soup.
[Pg 47]
1 cucumber
2 cabbage lettuces
1 onion
Small handful of spinach
A piece of mint
A pint of shelled peas
2 ozs. butter
A slice of ham
Wash the lettuces and cut them up. Cut up the cucumber and onion. Put them with half a pint of peas, the mint, ham and butter into a stew-pan. Cover with a little more than a quart of cold water. Bring to a boil, and then simmer gently for three hours. Strain off the liquid. Pass the vegetables through a sieve. Add to the liquid. Set on the fire again. Season. Add half a pint of green peas which have already been boiled.
1 tin of tomatoes
1 pint boiling water
1 table-spoon sugar
4 cloves
2 pepper-corns
1 table-spoon butter
1 ” flour
1 ” chopped onion
1 ” ” parsley
Put the tomatoes, water, sugar, cloves and pepper-corns in a porcelain-lined sauce-pot.[Pg 48] Simmer for half-an-hour. Fry the onions and parsley in the butter, being careful not to burn. Add the flour to them, mix smooth. Add them to the tomatoes. Simmer for ten minutes. Strain through a fine sieve. Season. Serve with rice (see p. 106) or croûtons (see p. 103).
[Pg 49]
[Pg 50]
In thickening soups with a liaison of cream (or milk) and yolk of egg, the eggs must first be well beaten, then the cream should be added to them and thoroughly mixed. When this is done take a tea-cup of hot stock and mix it slowly with the liaison. Strain it all through a fine sieve or muslin, and add gradually to the soup, which must on no account be allowed to boil after the liaison is added, although it should be stirred over a gentle fire until it thickens.
In thickening soup with eggs only, beat the required number of eggs, add a little warm stock to them. Strain, and add gradually to the soup.
[Pg 51]
1 quart stock
4 or 5 small slices of brown bread
¹⁄₂ head of celery
1 carrot
4 table-spoons glaze
4 yolks of eggs
1 gill sour cream
Toast the brown bread. Add it with the sliced celery and carrot to a rich stock from which all the fat has not been removed. Bring to a boil. Simmer for an hour. Add four table-spoons glaze. Put all through a sieve. Heat gently. Add the liaison of eggs and cream. Serve with croûtons made of brown bread (see p. 103).
This soup can be made with German black bread.
1 quart chicken stock
1 cup cooked cauliflower
2 yolks of eggs
¹⁄₂ pint cream
1 cup button mushrooms
Put the cauliflower through a fine sieve. Add it to the boiling stock. Season. Add the liaison of cream and egg.
Place the cooked mushrooms at the bottom of a soup tureen. Pour the soup over them.
[Pg 52]
¹⁄₄ lb. Carolina rice
1 quart chicken stock
1 gill cream
¹⁄₂ oz. Parmesan
2 yolks of eggs
Wash the rice. Boil it for ten minutes in water. Drain. Add to the stock. Simmer until the rice is tender. Put through a fine sieve. Add to the stock. Mix in the cheese. Add the liaison of cream and eggs (see p. 50).
Quenelles of chicken (see p. 105) can be added if desired, or rice balls (see p. 107).
1 cucumber
1¹⁄₂ pints white stock
1 oz. butter
1 onion
Small handful of sorrel
A little chervil
1 gill of cream
2 eggs
Cut the cucumber into thin slices. Sprinkle salt over them. Leave them for an hour. Drain. Put them in a sauce-pan with the butter, the onion, chervil and sorrel finely minced. Add the stock. Season. Simmer for twenty minutes. Add the liaison of cream and eggs and serve.
[Pg 53]
2 carrots
2 turnips
1 cucumber
1 quart chicken or veal broth
Yolks of 3 eggs
1 gill of cream
Tea-spoonful butter
1 gill cooked French beans
1 gill cooked young peas
Cut the carrots, turnips and cucumber into olive-shaped pieces. Blanch for three minutes in boiling water. Add to the stock, and simmer until the vegetables are tender. Take off the fire. Season. Add the yolks and cream and butter (in small pieces). Stir over the fire until the soup thickens.
Put the freshly cooked peas and beans (cut into dice) into the soup tureen. Pour the soup over them.
1 quart veal stock
1 handful spinach and sorrel
¹⁄₂ pint cream
3 yolks of eggs
Boil the chopped spinach and sorrel in the stock until tender. Season. Just before serving[Pg 54] add the liaison of eggs and cream. Stir continually until it thickens. Serve with croûtons (p. 103).
1 quart veal stock
1 chicken
3 yolks of eggs
1 pint cream or milk
2 table-spoons chopped parsley
Cut the chicken into joints. Scald and skin them. Add them to the stock. Season. Bring to the boil. Simmer gently for an hour. Skim from time to time. Strain. Add the liaison of egg and cream, and the parsley.
5 ozs. macaroni
2 ozs. butter
1 quart white stock
¹⁄₂ pint cream or milk
3 yolks of eggs
1 oz. grated Parmesan
Cut the macaroni in boiling water, adding butter, salt and pepper. Boil for half-an-hour. Drain. Cut in half-inch lengths.
[Pg 55]
Heat the white stock. Add the macaroni to it. Simmer another half-hour. Add liaison of eggs and cream (or milk) and the grated cheese.
¹⁄₂ lb. macaroni
A little more than 1 quart chicken stock
About 30 forcemeat balls
4 yolks of eggs
1 gill of cream
Boil the macaroni for ten minutes in cold water. Drain it. Cut it in finger-lengths. Cook it again for fifteen minutes in a little clear chicken stock. In a hot dish lay first a layer of macaroni, then one of small chicken forcemeat balls (see p. 104), then another layer of macaroni, etc.
Heat a quart of clear chicken stock to boiling point. Add a liaison of the yolks of four eggs and a gill of cream. Strain. Serve in a soup tureen with the dish of macaroni and forcemeat balls.
[Pg 56]
2 kidneys
2 small onions
¹⁄₄ lb. mushrooms
1 dozen small olives
3 gherkins
1 quart strong stock
Yolks of two eggs
Melt the butter and fry the kidneys and onions (finely cut up) in it very gently for five minutes. Cook the mushrooms separately. Put the kidneys, onions, mushrooms, olives and gherkins (finely sliced) in a hot soup tureen. Pour over them a quart of rich, dark, well-seasoned brown stock, which has been thickened with the yolks of two eggs.
1 quart of veal or beef stock
¹⁄₂ a tea-cup of rice
2 yolks of eggs
1 table-spoon cream
Boil the rice and stock together until the rice is tender. Press through a sieve. Season. Add the yolks and cream. Serve with croûtons.
[Pg 57]
3 potatoes
1 handful chopped water-cress
1 quart stock (or water)
2 yolks of eggs
1 table-spoon cream
1 oz. butter
1 tea-spoon white roux
Peel and wash the potatoes. Cook them in a little stock. When tender mash them and put through a sieve. Add them to the rest of the stock. Put back on the fire. Heat gently. Add a tea-spoonful of white roux (see p. 12). Add the butter in small pieces.
Make a liaison of the eggs and cream. Stir into the soup. Add the water-cress uncooked. Serve at once, before the water-cress becomes limp.
The water in which a fowl has been boiled
The carcase and bones of the fowl
1 pint milk or cream
1 table-spoon chopped onion
2 table-spoons ” celery
Yolks of two eggs
1 gill chopped and cooked carrot and green peas
Add the bones and carcase of the fowl, the onion, celery and seasoning to the water in which[Pg 58] a fowl has been boiled. Simmer till reduced to one quart. Strain and thicken with a white roux of butter and flour. Add the liaison of cream (or milk) and eggs.
Put the cooked carrot and peas in the soup tureen, and pour the soup over them.
2 lbs. knuckle of veal
1 quart water
1 onion
Half pint of milk or cream
2 yolks of eggs
1 table-spoon butter
1 ” flour
Wipe the veal and cut it into small pieces. Cover with cold water and heat slowly, skimming constantly. Season with salt, three or four pepper-corns, and a chopped onion. Simmer for three hours until reduced by half. Strain. Allow it to cool. Remove the fat. Put in the stew-pan again, and when boiling thicken with white roux made of table-spoon butter and a level table-spoon of flour (see p. 12). Add a half pint of milk and eggs. Season again. Serve with fried bread.
[Pg 59]
[Pg 60]
When passing vegetables or meat through a tammy or fine sieve, it will be easier if they are kept continually moistened with a little of the stock or milk with which the purée is to be made.
Purées having been passed through the sieve or tammy, can, if not required at once, be set aside until wanted. But a purée that has reached this point must on no account be re-heated or have milk or cream added to it until just before it is to be served. When re-heating, if a meat purée, it should not be allowed to boil, or even be made hotter than is absolutely necessary.
Allow all vegetable purées to boil up quickly for several minutes after the purée and stock have been mixed. This will clarify them. All scum should be carefully removed. When this is done, the butter and milk or cream can be added.
A little white or brown roux well mixed with purées a minute or two before serving will prevent the actual purée from separating from the stock.
[Pg 61]
1 bundle of asparagus
1 handful spinach
1 small onion
1 quart white stock
¹⁄₂ pint milk or cream
1 oz. butter
Break off all that is tender of each piece of asparagus. Scrape and wash them. Leave them in cold water for half-an-hour. Drain them. Put them in a sauce pan with a handful of spinach and a small onion. When tender take all out and drain again. Add to them a quart of white stock. Season. Boil gently for ten minutes. Put through a tammy. Heat slowly again, season and add the butter and scalded cream. This soup may be deepened in colour by adding a little spinach colouring (p. 104). Serve with croûtons (p. 103).
[Pg 62]
¹⁄₂ pint black beaus
1 quart water
1 carrot (grated)
1 onion
¹⁄₂ head celery
1 table-spoon butter
1 ” brown roux
2 ozs. raw ham or salt pork
2 cloves
1 bouquet herbs
1 lemon
2 hard-boiled eggs
1 glass sherry
Soak the beans over night. Drain. Put them in a sauce-pan with one quart cold water, and the ham or pork, the celery, grated carrot, herbs and cloves pounded. Slice the onion. Fry it in the butter. Add it to the beans, etc. Simmer for four or five hours. As the water boils away add cold water to keep it to the same quantity. Put through a sieve. Return to the fire. Season with salt, pepper, and a little mustard. Stir in a table-spoonful of brown roux (see p. 13). Just before serving add the juice of half a lemon and a glass of sherry.
Slice the hard-boiled eggs and half a lemon and put in the soup tureen. Pour the soup over it. Force-meat balls (p. 104) also may be served with this purée.
[Pg 63]
1 pint of beans
1 slice of bacon or salt pork
2 sprigs of parsley
3 small onions and one clove
¹⁄₂ head of celery
1 quart water or stock
¹⁄₂ pint milk or cream
1 table-spoon butter
1 ” flour
Boil the beans, one onion, parsley, celery and clove, in one quart of water or stock, until tender. Rub through a sieve into a basin, and set aside.
Slice and boil two onions until tender. Drain them. Melt the butter in a sauce-pan. Add the onions and a little nutmeg and fry until a good brown, stirring in the flour and mixing it smooth. Add the boiling milk. Boil for several minutes, stirring all the time. Press through a sieve, and add to the purée of beans. Season. Heat gently. Serve with croûtons.
2 large carrots
1 ” onion
1 ” turnip
1 quart beef stock
Scrape the carrots, and slice them finely, using the red outside part only. Slice the other vegetables.[Pg 64] Put all together in a sauce-pan with the stock. Cook until tender. Rub through a sieve. Return to the fire. Season and add a small lump of sugar. Serve with croûtons.
3 large endives
1¹⁄₂ pints chicken stock
1 table-spoon white roux
¹⁄₂ pint cream or milk
2 ozs. butter
Discard all but the white hearts of the endives. Wash them thoroughly, and boil them in salt water for ten minutes. Drain them and put them to stew very gently for quarter of an hour with the butter, stirring continually. Then add half a pint of white chicken stock, and simmer for an hour. Pass through a tammy. Return to the fire and add a pint more stock. Let it boil up. Season. Add the white roux (p. 12), butter and the boiling cream. Colour with spinach colouring (see p. 104).
[Pg 65]
1 pint of green peas
1 turnip
1 small onion
1 piece of mint
1 oz. of butter
1 quart brown stock
Stew the vegetables with the butter, one pint of stock, and a little celery seed, until they are quite tender. Rub them through a fine sieve or tammy. Return to the fire. Add the rest of the stock. Season, and add a lump of sugar and spinach colouring (see p. 104).
Whenever possible, use half a head of celery finely chopped, instead of the celery seed.
1 pint of peas
2 small onions
1 cabbage lettuce
1 bouquet herbs
1 quart stock
1 table-spoon white roux
1 gill cream
Stew the peas, onion (sliced), lettuce and a bouquet of herbs in the butter very gently for[Pg 66] ten minutes. Add to them the hot stock. Bring to the boil. Simmer for half-an-hour. Pass through a tammy. Re-heat gently. Season. Stir in the roux (p. 12) and a gill of cream. Serve with croûtons, or add to the soup some young cooked peas.
¹⁄₂ pint of peas
¹⁄₂ head of celery
1¹⁄₂ pints of stock or water
¹⁄₂ pint cream or milk
1 table-spoon butter
Soak the peas over night. Put them and the celery, chopped, on to boil with the water or stock. Boil till very tender. Put through a hair sieve or tammy. Put back on the fire and heat gently. Season. Colour with spinach colouring. Just before serving add the butter, in small pieces, and, when it has melted, the boiling cream. Serve with croûtons (see p. 103).
[Pg 67]
1 pint of lentils
1 head of celery
1 onion
1 turnip
1 carrot
1 slice of ham
3 pints stock or water
1 gill of cream
Soak the lentils in water over night. Let the vegetables (which should be cut up) and the ham stew gently in the butter for ten minutes. Strain the lentils from the water they have soaked in. Put them with the ham, vegetables and stock into a sauce-pan. Bring to the boil and simmer for two hours. Strain off the liquid. Pound and mash the lentils, etc., and pass them through a sieve. Return them to the liquid. Boil up again. Add a tea-spoonful of powdered sugar, seasoning and the cream, scalded. Serve with fried bread (see p. 103).
[Pg 68]
6 onions
1 small turnip
¹⁄₂ head celery
1 quart white stock
2 ozs. butter
¹⁄₂ pint cream or milk
12 button onions
Cook the large onions, turnip, celery and butter with the stock until very tender. At the same time prepare and boil the button onions until soft. Put the vegetables and stock through a fine sieve. Return to the fire. Add the cream or milk, scalded, and the button onions. Season.
4 table-spoons rice
1 pint stock
1 pint milk or cream
1 onion
1 carrot (grated)
Bay leaf
¹⁄₂ cup fine bread crumbs
1 oz. butter
Wash and parboil the rice. Add it to the stock with a grated carrot, the sliced onion (which should have been fried a light brown in the butter), and the bread crumbs. Simmer for half-an-hour. Pass through a fine sieve. Return to the fire. Add the scalded milk or cream, and season. Serve with croûtons (see p. 103).
[Pg 69]
4 turnips (preferably yellow)
1 large onion
1 carrot
1 piece of celery
4 ozs. butter
1¹⁄₂ pints stock or water
¹⁄₂ pint milk or cream
Slice the vegetables finely and stew them in the butter. Add half a pint of the stock hot and simmer until the vegetables are very tender. Put through a sieve. Add the rest of the stock. Heat. Season. Just before serving add the scalded milk or cream.
1 onion
1 carrot
1 large turnip
¹⁄₂ small cabbage
¹⁄₂ head of celery
¹⁄₂ pint of stewed tomatoes
1 quart of water or stock
Bouquet of sweet herb
Table-spoon butter
1 gill cream or milk
Chop all the vegetables but the cabbage and tomatoes very fine. Put them in a sauce-pan[Pg 70] with the water or stock and boil. Cook the cabbage separately. When the vegetables are tender, add the cabbage. Simmer ten minutes. Add the tomatoes and a bouquet of herbs. Boil for quarter of an hour. Rub through a sieve. Return to the fire. Season. Add the butter and the cream.
[Pg 71]
PAGE | |
---|---|
Purée of Fowl à la Reine | 73 |
” ” à la Reine Margot | 73 |
” Hare | 74 |
” Pheasant | 75 |
” Rabbit | 75 |
[Pg 72]
Whenever a piece of meat or fowl is added to a soup, it must be added as late as possible, and the soup must not be allowed to boil after it has been added, or even made very hot. If it boils the purée will curdle. Should it by accident do so, it is possible to remedy it by adding a little more stock to the soup, putting it all through a tammy again, and then warming it gently.
[Pg 73]
1 large tender fowl
¹⁄₄ lb. boiled rice
1¹⁄₂ pints water
¹⁄₂ pint cream
Roast the fowl. Cut off all the meat from it. Chop it and pound it. Break the bones and carcase of the fowl. Put them and the skin in a sauce-pan with the water. Bring to a boil and simmer for an hour or two. Skim and strain. Add it to the pounded meat. Pass through a tammy. Add the scalded cream. Season.
1 fowl
1 quart water
¹⁄₂ pint cream
3 ozs. pounded almonds
1 tea-cup bread crumbs
Boil the fowl in a quart of water. When the fowl is tender, take it out and set it aside.[Pg 74] Skim the broth and pour it into a basin. Cut all the meat off the fowl. Chop it very fine and pound it. Add to it the bread crumbs (which must be very finely grated), and the pounded almonds. Put all through a tammy and add to the broth. Season. Add the boiling cream. The yolks of three eggs can also be added if desired (see p. 50).
1 small hare
1 quart water or consommé
1 small bouquet of herbs
2 ozs. butter
2 ozs. boiled rice
¹⁄₂ pint Sauterne
Skin and clean the hare. Cut it up into small pieces. Melt the butter in a large sauce-pan. Add the pieces of hare to it with a small bouquet of herbs. Fry them a good brown colour. Add the water or stock. Bring to the boil. Simmer an hour-and-a-half. Strain off the broth. Cut off all the meat from the hare. Chop and pound it. Add the rice. Dilute with the broth and pass through a tammy. Heat the purée gently when required, adding the Sauterne. Season. Serve with fried croûtons.
[Pg 75]
1 pheasant
1 quart stock
3 ozs. boiled rice
1 table-spoon glaze
Roast the pheasant until it is thoroughly done. Cut off all the meat. Set aside the white meat. Put the rest with the bones and stock into a sauce-pan. Bring to the boil and simmer for an hour. Chop and pound the meat. Add the rice to it. Dilute with the strained stock. Pass through a tammy. Add the table-spoonful of glaze (see p. 14). Serve with croûtons.
1 rabbit
1¹⁄₂ pints water
2 ozs. barley or rice (well boiled)
¹⁄₂ pint cream
1 table-spoon brown roux
Roast the rabbit, seasoning it with salt, pepper and nutmeg. When it is done, cut off all the meat. Put the bones with the water to make a stock and simmer an hour or two. Skim and strain. Chop the meat and pound it. When[Pg 76] the stock is ready, put it with the meat and barley or rice through a tammy. When ready to serve, heat the purée gently, and add the roux (see p. 12). Season, and add half a pint of scalded cream. Quenelles of rabbit may be served with this purée (see p. 105).
[Pg 77]
PAGE | |
---|---|
Crab Bisque | 78 |
Lobster Bisque | 78 |
Oyster Bisque | 79 |
[Pg 78]
1 large crab
1¹⁄₂ pints white stock
Bread crumbs or rice
2 yolks of hard-boiled eggs
¹⁄₂ pint cream
1 glass white wine (Sauterne or Rhenish)
Take out all the meat, setting that from the claws aside. Pound the rest of the meat with the pulpy part. Add to it about half its weight in fine bread crumbs or boiled rice, and the yolks. Dilute with the stock. Rub through a tammy. Heat very gently, taking care that it does not boil. Season with salt and cayenne. Add half a pint of boiling cream, and, if desired, a glass of white wine, and the shredded meat from the claws.
1 hen-lobster
1¹⁄₂ pints white stock
¹⁄₂ head of celery
2 ozs. butter
¹⁄₂ pint cream or white wine (Sauterne or Rhenish)
Remove the meat from a hen-lobster. Set aside the coral and dry it. Cut up the meat[Pg 79] into very fine shreds and fry them for five minutes in the butter, with the chopped celery and pepper and salt. Add the stock and boil for half-an-hour. Drain off the stock. Pound the meat and pass it through a tammy. When required, return the stock and purée to the fire. Heat gently and stir continually, stir in the coral which should have been rubbed through a very fine sieve when dry. Season and add a few drops of lemon juice, the scalded cream or half a pint of hot white wine. Do not allow the bisque to boil.
1 pint oysters
1 pint stock
1 pint milk
1 gill cream
1 blade mace
Nutmeg
4 ozs. butter
Boil the oysters gently for quarter of an hour in the stock, adding to it one ounce of butter and the spices. Take off the fire and drain. Set aside the stock. Chop the oysters very fine. Melt two ounces of butter and add them to it. Stir in the flour gradually and smoothly. Add[Pg 80] the stock, and a pint of milk. Boil for ten minutes, stirring continually. Rub through a tammy. Return to the fire. Add a gill of boiling cream and an ounce of butter in small pieces. Stir the bisque until it is melted, but do not allow it to boil. Season. Serve with croûtons (see p. 103).
[Pg 81]
PAGE | |
---|---|
Bouillabaisse | 82 |
Fish Soup | 83 |
Oyster Soup | 84 |
Salmon Soup | 84 |
[Pg 82]
About 3 lbs. of fish
2 onions
2 table-spoons of olive oil
¹⁄₂ a lemon
2 small tomatoes
1 glass white wine
1 laurel leaf
4 pepper corns
1 table-spoon chopped parsley
Bread
Wash the fish and cut it across in slices of different sizes. Take a large iron sauce-pan, fry the onions with olive oil in it. When they are coloured a good brown add the fish to the sauce-pan and just cover it with warm water. Add also a laurel leaf, the inside of half a lemon (from which the pips have been removed), two small tomatoes (peeled and the seeds taken out) cut in dice and a glass of light white wine, the pepper-corns and salt. Make up a big fire. Set the sauce-pan on it and let the contents boil violently for twelve to fifteen minutes. Then add a table-spoon of chopped parsley. Let it continue boiling for a minute.
In a warmed soup tureen put a number of[Pg 83] slices of roll or bread. Pour the liquid over them. See that they become thoroughly soaked with it. Add the best of the fish and serve.
The best fish to use for Bouillabaisse are cod, whiting, mullet, sole, turbot and langouste. It is absolutely essential that all the fish used should be perfectly fresh.
In France 4 cloves of garlic would be added with the tomatoes, but this is optional.
1 lb. cod or halibut
1 quart milk
1 sliced onion
1 table-spoon white roux
Cook the fish in boiling salted water until it flakes easily. Drain it. Take away the bones and skin and rub the fish through a sieve. Put the sliced onion in the milk and boil for ten minutes. Remove the onion. Add the white roux (see p. 12) to the milk. Stir till well mixed. Add the fish. Season.
[Pg 84]
1 pint oysters
¹⁄₂ pint water
1 pint milk
1 gill thick cream
1 table-spoon white roux
Cover the oysters with the cold water. After a little while remove them. Strain the liquor. Put it on to boil and skim. When clear add the oysters. Let them simmer until their edges ruffle and their bodies grow plump. (This should take about five minutes.) Take out the oysters, set them where they will keep warm. Add the liquor to the milk, which should be boiling. Add the roux (see p. 12) and seasoning. Simmer five minutes. Add the boiling cream. Add the oysters.
¹⁄₂ lb. salmon
1 quart white stock
2 anchovies
¹⁄₂ head of celery
A piece of parsley
1 clove
1 gill cream
1 table-spoon white roux
Let half a pound of the salmon stew gently with the chopped anchovies, in two ounces of[Pg 85] butter, for twenty minutes, being very careful that it does not brown. Add the stock, the celery, cut fine, parsley, spice and herbs. Bring to the boil. Add the white roux (p. 12). Simmer for an hour-and-a-half. Put through a tammy. Return to the fire. Add the boiling cream. Season and serve at once.
[Pg 86]
PAGE | |
---|---|
Barley Broth | 87 |
Chicken Broth | 87 |
Cockie Leekie | 88 |
Game Broth | 89 |
Hotch Potch | 90 |
Potato Broth | 90 |
Scotch Broth | 91 |
Sheep’s Head Broth | 92 |
[Pg 87]
2 lbs. lean mutton
¹⁄₄ lb. barley
2 turnips
2 carrots
1 leek or onion
2 table-spoons chopped parsley
2 quarts of water
Trim the mutton and cut it into small dice-shaped pieces. Put it with the barley in a sauce-pan. Cover with the water. Bring to a boil. Simmer for two hours, skimming from time to time. Add the vegetables, which should be finely chopped, and the parsley. Season. Simmer for forty minutes.
1 chicken
1 quart cold water
1 onion
2 table-spoons of rice
Clean the chicken. Separate it into joints, removing all skin and fat. Put it into a sauce-pan[Pg 88] and cover with the cold water. Add the onion sliced. Simmer until the chicken is tender. Remove the breast of the chicken from the sauce-pan. Let the rest continue to simmer until the meat comes clean away from the bones. Strain off the broth. Remove the fat. Take two table-spoonfuls of rice which has already been washed and soaked for half-an-hour. Put the broth on the fire again. Add to it the rice. Season. Add the breast of the chicken cut in small pieces. Simmer until the rice is tender. A cup of scalded cream can be added just before serving.
1 fowl
2 lbs. shin of beef or knuckle of veal
2 quarts of water
12 leeks
Skin the fowl and cut it into joints. Put it in a stew-pan with the meat (which should not be cut up) and cover with the water. Bring to a boil. Let it simmer for two hours. Skim. Cut off the coarser part of the leeks, and cut the best parts into pieces about an inch long. (The leeks are improved by being soaked in[Pg 89] water for two hours before using.) Add to the soup. Simmer for half-an-hour. Take out the meat and fowl. Cut the breast of the fowl into small pieces and return to the soup. Season.
A tea-cupful of boiled rice can be added if wished.
Two or three birds (any kind of game)
2 quarts of cold water
1 whole carrot
1 whole turnip
¹⁄₂ tea-cup chopped white cabbage
3 potatoes sliced
1 dozen small onions
1 head of celery
Cut the game into small pieces, cover with two quarts of cold water. Add an onion, two carrots, a turnip and several pieces of celery. Bring to a boil. Simmer very gently for four hours. Strain off the broth. Choose the best pieces of meat from the game, cut them up into neat pieces. Add to the broth. Put back on the fire, and add a head of celery very finely sliced, a dozen small onions, and three large potatoes cut in slices. Simmer gently for about three quarters of an hour. Add the cooked chopped cabbage, and simmer another five minutes.
[Pg 90]
2 lbs. lean mutton from the neck
2 quarts cold water
1 large carrot
1 turnip
2 onions
1 cabbage
1 small cauliflower
¹⁄₂ pint of shelled peas
Cut the mutton into dice-shaped pieces, removing the fat and skin. Put it in a sauce-pan with the water and bring to the boil. Let it simmer gently for two hours. Skim. Season. Add all the vegetables, finely chopped, except the cabbage (of which the heart only should be used and which should be cooked separately). Simmer two or three hours. Add the cabbage.
The water in which a joint of mutton has been boiled
1 oz. ham
1 oz. butter
1 small onion
3 large potatoes
Reduce the water to one quart. Strain, and remove the fat.
Chop one ounce of lean ham very fine. Melt[Pg 91] an ounce of butter in a sauce-pan, and in it fry the ham and a small sliced onion until a rich brown. Add this to the broth and simmer thirty minutes. Strain. Season.
Pare and slice three large potatoes. Add to the broth. Bring to the boil. Simmer for forty minutes.
2 lbs. scrag end neck of mutton
1 lb. best end ” ”
2 quarts water
2 carrots
2 turnips
3 small onions or 2 leeks
Small head of celery
1 table-spoon chopped parsley
3 table-spoons barley which has been soaked several hours
Soak the scrag end in cold water for an hour. Remove the skin very carefully and part of the fat. Put on to boil with two quarts of cold water. When it boils skim it. Set back to simmer for two hours. Strain. Put the strained broth into a sauce-pan. Add to it the best end of the neck, either in cutlets or using the meat only (cut in neat pieces) and the barley. Bring to the boil. Simmer two hours. Skim. Add the vegetables cut into small dice-shaped pieces. Season. Simmer till vegetables are tender. Add parsley.
[Pg 92]
1 sheep’s head
1 tea-cup pearl barley
2 quarts cold water
3 onions and two cloves
1 turnip
1 carrot
Bouquet of herbs
Glass of white wine
Mushroom ketchup
Remove the brains from a sheep’s head, and clean it. Leave the head in water over night. The next day put the head in a sauce-pan with the water and barley. Bring to a boil. Throw in a little cold water. Skim. Simmer for an hour, stirring from time to time. Add the vegetables, cut up finely, and herbs. Simmer three or four hours until head is tender. Strain off the broth from the head. Put the vegetables through a sieve and add to the broth. Let it stand till cold. Remove the fat. Take the best of the meat from the head. Cut it into small pieces. Put them with the broth in a sauce-pan. Heat gently. Add a wine-glass of white wine and a little mushroom ketchup just before serving.
[Pg 93]
PAGE | |
---|---|
Beef Essence | 95 |
Beef Tea—I | 95 |
Beef Tea—II | 96 |
” ” —III | 96 |
Calves’ Foot Broth | 97 |
Chicken Broth | 98 |
” Custard | 98 |
” Panada | 99 |
Game Panada | 99 |
Chicken Tea | 100 |
Mutton Broth | 100 |
Veal Broth | 101 |
[Pg 94]
It is essential in making invalid soups that the meat used should be uncooked and very good.
For beef tea use steak or shin of beef.
Every piece of skin, membrane and fat should be carefully removed from the meat to be used.
Vegetables, spice and seasoning should not be used unless permitted by the doctor.
When soup has to be made quickly a little time can be saved by removing the fat from it while it is still hot (see p. 3).
[Pg 95]
Cut up a lean piece of juicy rump steak into small pieces. Put these into a closely covered jar without any water. Stand the jar in a large sauce-pan containing cold water. Heat slowly and keep just below boiling point. When the meat in the jar is white, it is done. This should be in about two hours. Strain off the juice, pressing the meat while doing so in order that none may be left in it. Season with a little salt.
Or,
Place the meat in a closely covered jar in a moderate oven, leaving it there for three hours. Strain as above.
In both cases the essence should be kept in a cold place. It must not be boiled when it is heated. It can be made into beef tea by adding boiling water to it.
1 lb. very juicy rump steak or shin of beef
1 cup cold water
Cut the meat into very small pieces. Put these in a bowl and cover with a cup of cold[Pg 96] water. Cover the basin and leave for three or four hours. Then, squeezing the meat firmly, drain off all the liquid. Strain this, add a little salt, and when required heat very gently. It is best to do this in a bain marie, as it curdles easily (see p. 110).
Add another cup of cold water to the meat, and proceed as for the first cup.
1 lb. steak or shin of beef
2 pints water
Cut the meat, which must be lean and juicy, into small pieces. Put them into a stew-pan and cover with a quart of water. Heat very gently. Skim whenever necessary. Simmer for a little more than an hour. Strain through muslin into a basin. Let it stand until cool. Remove the fat. Pour off the clear beef tea very gently from the dregs.
4 lbs. of steak or shin of beef
2 lbs. bones
2 quarts cold water
Break and crush the bones. Cut the meat into small pieces. Put into a stew-pan and[Pg 97] cover with the cold water. Heat very slowly. Simmer for three hours. Add a little salt. Strain into a basin. Allow it to cool. Remove any fat very carefully. Pour off the clear liquid carefully from the dregs.
If allowed, a little carrot and celery may be cooked with the beef tea.
2 calves’ feet
2 quarts cold water
2 table-spoons sugar
Juice of half a lemon
Glass of good white wine
Scald and clean the feet. Split and break them. Put into a stew-pan and cover with two quarts of cold water. Heat very slowly and simmer until reduced to about a pint and a half. Strain. When cold remove the fat. Add sugar and lemon juice. Return to the fire. Let it boil for five minutes, stirring continually. Skim thoroughly. Add the wine. Strain through a jelly bag, and keep in a cold place.
In making broth, the wine may be omitted, and in its place the beaten yolk of an egg added. In which case it will only be necessary to strain it instead of passing it through a jelly bag. Sago or tapioca, which has been boiled till tender, should be added.
[Pg 98]
One chicken
1 quart of cold water
Juice of a lemon
Boiled rice or vermicelli
Cut up a chicken into small pieces. Remove the meat from the bones as much as possible. Crush the bones. Cover meat and bones with a quart of water. Heat very slowly. Simmer until perfectly tender. When tender strain off the liquid. Let it get cool. Remove the fat. Heat again, adding a little salt and a few drops of lemon juice. Allow the broth to boil for five minutes. Strain through a napkin. Add a little well boiled rice or vermicelli, and a little of the white meat of the chicken cut in dice.
1 chicken
3 pints of cold water
2 yolks of eggs
Clean, skin and cut up a young chicken. Put it into a stew-pan with about three pints of cold water. Heat very slowly. Skim carefully when it boils. Allow it to simmer for an hour. Strain off the liquid through a napkin.
[Pg 99]
To each half pint of broth add the yolks of two eggs. Put in a double boiler and stir until it thickens (see p. 50). Serve at once.
1 chicken
1 French roll
1 quart cold water
Skin a chicken and boil it gently until tender. Remove it from the liquid and let it cool. Then cut off the white meat, pound it in a mortar. Mix with it the crumb of a French roll that has been soaked in broth. Add a little of the broth the chicken was boiled in. Pass through a tammy. Dilute with broth. Salt. Heat gently, but do not allow it to boil.
A table-spoon of well-boiled rice may be substituted for the crumb of a French roll.
Game panada is made in exactly the same way as chicken panada, substituting a pheasant, or a couple of partridges, for the chicken.
[Pg 100]
1 chicken
1 quart cold water
Skin a chicken and divide it into pieces. Put in a stew-pan and cover with one quart of water. Simmer gently for a full hour. Strain. Allow it to cool. Remove the fat. Serve hot or cold.
1 lb. lean mutton
1 pint cold water
2 table-spoons boiled rice
Chop the mutton very fine. Put it in a stew-pan with one pint of cold water. Put it in a basin and cover it with the water. Cover the basin. Let it stand for an hour. Then heat very gently. Simmer for quarter of an hour. Strain. Remove the fat. Add the well-boiled rice.
[Pg 101]
A knuckle of veal
A chicken
2 quarts of water
2 table-spoons well-boiled rice
Put a knuckle of veal and a chicken (an old one will do) into a large stew-pan. Cover with two quarts of water. Let it boil up gently. Skim. Simmer for three hours. Strain through a napkin. Allow it to cool. Remove the fat. Serve with a little boiled rice.
[Pg 103]
[Pg 104]
Several slices of stale bread
1 oz. of butter
Cut off the crust and cut the bread into small dice-shaped pieces. Fry them in the butter. Drain them on a sieve. Before serving, put them for a few minutes in a quick oven.
4 yolks of eggs
1 gill consommé or water
Beat the yolks in a basin, stir in the consommé or water. Add a little salt. Strain through a hair sieve into a shallow mould. Steam it until well set. Let it become quite cold. Put out on a wet cloth. Cut in squares or fancy shapes. Part of the custard may be coloured green with spinach colouring.
[Pg 105]
1 cup of meat of any kind
1 tea-spoon finely chopped parsley
1 salt-spoon thyme
1 tea-spoon lemon juice
1 yolk of egg (raw)
1 table-spoon flour
1 ” butter
Chop the meat very fine, season it highly, and add the lemon juice, thyme and parsley. Moisten with the yolk of egg. Roll into small balls. Flour them well. Melt the butter in a shallow pan. When it is brown add the balls. Fry until brown.
Pound some spinach in a mortar and put it through a hair sieve. Put the juice in a sauce-pan and boil it until it curdles. Put through a very fine sieve. Bottle.
[Pg 106]
(For Potato or Clear Soups)
2 potatoes
1 oz. butter
1 table-spoon thick cream
1 egg
Boil the potatoes. Rub them through a sieve. Put them in a sauce-pan with the butter and cream. Season. Stir over a good fire until of a stiff consistency. Remove from the fire and put in a basin. Add the yolk of an egg and the beaten white. Form into small balls. Drop into boiling water. Boil two or three minutes.
4 ozs. meat
2 ozs. bread-crumbs
2 ozs. butter
1 whole egg and 1 extra yolk
Chop and pound the meat. Soak the bread-crumbs in a little milk or broth. Mix all thoroughly together. Season. Pass through a[Pg 107] sieve. Form into balls. Drop into boiling water or broth and simmer for three minutes.
The best meat should always be reserved for making quenelles.
4 ozs. marrow
4 ozs. fine bread-crumbs
1 egg
¹⁄₂ tea-spoonful finely-chopped parsley
Mix all the ingredients thoroughly. Season. Roll in the hand in small balls. Boil in a little broth for fifteen minutes.
1 cup of Carolina rice
2 quarts boiling water
1 table-spoon salt
Wash a cup of rice thoroughly. Drain it. Throw it into a large sauce-pan of salted boiling water and let it boil as fast as possible for twenty minutes. Do not stir. Drain. Put into cold water for ten minutes. Drain again. When required warm it by steaming, or set it in the oven, leaving the door open.
[Pg 108]
(To serve with Clear Soup)
Prepare the rice as above. Add to it one cup of rich stock which has been highly seasoned. Steam to warm. Add a table-spoon of butter just before serving.
Or,
Add a table-spoon of chopped onion which has been fried a rich yellow in a table-spoon of butter, to the cooked rice. Moisten with a cup of stock and steam for ten minutes.
(For Cream of Rice or Clear Soups)
¹⁄₄ lb. Carolina rice
1 oz. butter
1 oz. grated Parmesan
2 yolks of eggs
1 whole egg
Boil the rice until quite soft. Drain it. Put it in a sauce-pan with the butter, cheese and yolks. Stir continually for five minutes. Season. Take off the fire. Turn out of the sauce-pan to cool. When cold, make into small balls. Beat the whole egg. Roll the balls first in a little flour, then in the egg. Fry in very hot lard till a rich yellow.
[Pg 109]
[Pg 110]
There is, of course, no end to sauces, and in a book of this size it is impossible to do justice to their variety. Enough are, however, I hope, given in the pages that follow for ordinary needs.
It is of the highest importance in making sauces that the materials used should be of the best. Fresh butter and the finest olive oil should be used.
When adding the yolks of eggs to sauces it is best to do so in a bain marie (i.e. to stand the sauce-pan in which the sauce is being made, inside a larger one full of boiling water), as they must never be allowed to boil, and a quick fire easily burns them.
For thickening sauces, etc., see remarks on soup on p. 12.
[Pg 111]
[Pg 112]
(For Skate, grilled Mackerel)
1 gill vinegar
4 ozs. butter
Several small parsley leaves
Small piece of bay leaf
Boil the vinegar with the bay leaf until it is considerably reduced.
Heat the butter in a pan until it becomes brown. Add the parsley leaves. Let them fry for a moment. Skim the butter.
Remove the bay leaf from the vinegar. Add a little salt and pepper. Pour the butter and parsley leaves into it. Mix and serve.
Butter, size of an egg
1 tea-spoon flour
¹⁄₂ pint milk or cream
Juice of half a lemon
2 yolks of eggs
Melt the butter in a sauce-pan. Stir in the flour and mix till perfectly smooth. Add the milk or cream. Boil for two or three minutes. Add lemon juice, and just before serving, stir in the two yolks. After which do not allow the sauce to boil.
[Pg 113]
(For Fillet of Sole)
1 oz. butter
2 table-spoons olive oil
2 yolks of eggs
1 table-spoon vinegar
Put the oil and butter into a sauce-pan on the fire and stir till the butter is melted. Beat the yolks slightly. Add the vinegar to them. Season. Directly the butter is melted add the yolks and vinegar, stirring continually over a bain marie until the sauce thickens. Half a tea-spoonful of mustard may be added.
(For Mackerel, etc.)
2 table-spoons olive oil
1 oz. butter
6 chopped mushrooms
1 shallot, finely chopped
1 tea-spoon chopped parsley
1 clove
1 wine-glass white wine
10 drops Liebig’s extract of meat
Put the butter and oil into a sauce-pan. Add the mushrooms, shallot, parsley and the clove.[Pg 114] Cook for a few minutes. Add the wine and Liebig. Simmer gently for forty minutes. Season. Pass through a sieve.
4 ozs. butter
¹⁄₂ pint milk
1 tea-spoon flour
1 dessert-spoon finely chopped parsley
Juice of a lemon
Mix the flour and butter together till smooth. Melt in a sauce-pan. Add the boiling milk. Let all boil for three or four minutes, stirring constantly. Add the parsley and lemon juice.
1 tea-spoon flour
4 ozs. butter
1 gill boiling milk or water
Mix the flour and butter thoroughly in a basin. When perfectly smooth put in a sauce-pan. Add to it the boiling milk or water. Let it boil for two or three minutes. Stir continually from left to right. Season.
To this sauce the raw yolk of an egg or a finely chopped hard boiled egg, shrimps, a little essence of anchovy, or a table spoon of grated[Pg 115] cucumber may be added; when it becomes egg, shrimp, anchovy or cucumber sauce. To the cucumber sauce add a tea-spoonful of lemon juice.
2 doz. oysters
3 ozs. butter
1 tea-spoon flour
¹⁄₂ pint cream
1 coffee-spoon lemon juice
Prepare the oysters and stew them in their own juice and the butter until plump and tender. Mix the flour with the cream, until perfectly smooth. Bring to the boil and let it boil two or three minutes. Add it to the oysters, etc. Stir quickly together. Season with salt, a little cayenne and the lemon juice.
4 table-spoons vinegar
1 blade mace
1 tea-spoon flour
Yolks of 4 eggs
3 ozs. butter
Season the vinegar, add to it the flour and mix perfectly smooth. Add the mace. Bring[Pg 116] to the boil and boil for two or three minutes. Take off the fire, and take out the mace. Add the butter cut in small pieces, and the well-beaten yolks. Stir continually, in one direction, over a bain marie. Serve directly the butter is melted.
[Pg 117]
[Pg 118]
3 lbs. lean veal
1 lb. raw lean ham
1 oz. butter
6 mushrooms chopped
1 carrot chopped
1 onion chopped
Rind of a lemon
Small bouquet of herbs
1 tea-spoon allspice
1 quart brown stock
¹⁄₄ lb. brown roux
Slice the veal and ham. Add the vegetables, spice, lemon rind and herbs, and brown slightly in a sauce-pan with the butter. Add the stock and brown roux (see p. 13). Boil ten minutes. Stir continually. Put through a tammy.
1 cucumber
2 table-spoons brown stock
1 oz. butter
1 table-spoon chopped parsley
Juice of half a lemon
¹⁄₂ pint brown sauce
Peel and split the cucumber lengthwise in four pieces. Take out the seeds. Cut in small pieces.[Pg 119] Put into salted water and boil gently for seven minutes. Take off and drain. Melt the butter and add to it the stock, cucumber and parsley. Cook gently for half-an-hour. Add the brown sauce and lemon juice.
(For Roast Beef or Steak)
1 tea-cup horse-radish
¹⁄₂ pint water
3 ozs. butter
3 table-spoons flour
1 gill cream
4 yolks of eggs
3 table-spoons elder vinegar
Scrape the horse-radish very finely, and boil it for ten minutes in water. Drain off the water. Cook the horse-radish with the butter and flour for four minutes. Add the water in which the horse-radish was boiled, stirring continually. Heat. Take off the fire. Add the hot cream and then the beaten yolks. Beat well together. Add pepper, salt and the vinegar.
[Pg 120]
2 ozs. butter
1 table-spoon chopped parsley
Juice of half a lemon
Melt the butter. Skim it. Add the parsley (and, if liked, a little finely chopped shallot), salt, pepper and lemon juice.
4 shallots
1 tea-spoon chopped parsley
1 tea-spoon chopped fennel
1 dozen mushrooms
2 ozs. butter
¹⁄₂ pint brown sauce or béchamel
Chop the shallots. Put them with the parsley, fennel and mushrooms in a sauce-pan in which the butter has been melted. Cook gently for five minutes. Add the brown sauce or béchamel (see pp. 118 and 126). Boil ten minutes. Season and add a squeeze of lemon juice.
[Pg 121]
2 dozen small mushrooms
1 oz. butter
1 table-spoon flour
1 pint good gravy
¹⁄₂ a lemon
Cook the mushrooms in the butter until brown and tender. Add the flour. Stir well in and brown. Pour the gravy over the mushrooms. Boil three minutes. Season and add a little lemon juice.
(For Roast Mutton)
4 onions
¹⁄₂ pint melted butter (see p. 114)
Slice and chop the onions finely. Boil until tender. Drain and add to the hot melted butter. Season. If preferred, the onion can be first passed through a fine sieve and then added to the melted butter.
[Pg 122]
5 yolks of eggs
2 ozs. butter
1 table-spoon chopped tarragon
1 dessert-spoon vinegar
Put the yolks in a sauce-pan, in a bain marie, and stir into them one ounce of butter. As soon as the eggs begin to thicken, take off the fire. Add another ounce of butter, the tarragon and vinegar. This sauce should be of the consistency of a mayonnaise. Serve with roast meats.
2 table-spoons red wine
2 table-spoons ketchup
1 tea-spoon butter
1 tea-spoon vinegar
Stir altogether in a sauce-pan. Season and serve very hot.
[Pg 123]
(For Calf’s Head)
2 table-spoons chopped onions
1 oz. butter
1 table-spoon flour
1 gill white stock
1 gill white wine
1 lemon
Fry the onion in the butter, with the flour, until a rich yellow. Add to it the stock, which should be boiling, and the wine. Stir together. Add the juice of the lemon and a little of the grated rind. Simmer for quarter of an hour. Strain through a fine sieve.
(For Pork)
3 onions
1 gill rich brown gravy
1 tea-spoon made mustard
1 tea-spoon vinegar
2 ozs. butter
1 table-spoon flour
Chop the onions. Fry them in the butter. Add the flour. Mix quite smooth. Add the gravy, salt and pepper. Simmer for half-an-hour. Skim. Add the mustard and vinegar. Serve with pork.
[Pg 124]
4 table-spoons vinegar
1 bay leaf
1 table-spoon brown sauce
1 table-spoon chopped shallots
2 table-spoons chopped gherkins
1 table-spoon capers
1 table-spoon chopped parsley
1 oz. butter
Boil the vinegar for quarter of an hour with the bay leaf. Add the sauce (see p. 118). Simmer five minutes. Remove the bay leaf. Add the shallots (which should have been previously cooked in the butter and allowed to drain upon a sieve), capers, gherkins and parsley.
6 tomatoes
¹⁄₂ an onion chopped
1 clove
1 slice of ham
1 gill rich brown gravy
1 table-spoon brown roux
Remove the seeds from the tomatoes. Stew them with the onion, ham and clove in an enamel sauce-pan until well cooked. Rub through a tammy. Return to the sauce-pan. Add the gravy and brown roux (see p. 12). Simmer for quarter of an hour.
[Pg 125]
PAGE | |
---|---|
Apple Sauce | 126 |
Béchamel Sauce | 126 |
Bread Sauce | 127 |
Celery Sauce | 127 |
Gooseberry Sauce | 128 |
Lemon Sauce | 128 |
Parsley Sauce | 129 |
Sauce à la Reine | 129 |
White Sauce | 130 |
[Pg 126]
Set the required quantity of sour apples, pared, cored and sliced, in a small pan inside a large sauce-pan containing boiling water. Let the water boil quickly until the apples are done. Mash them and add sugar to taste.
Or,
Pare, quarter and remove the core of several sour apples. Put them a sauce-pan with a little water. Boil up quickly. Do not stir until cooked. Then add sugar and mash.
1 lb. veal
2 slices ham
2 pints water
¹⁄₄ lb. mushrooms
1 onion
Bouquet of herbs
5 table-spoons white roux
1 pint of cream
Slice the veal, ham, mushrooms and onion and stew them gently for an hour and a half in the water. Thicken with the roux (see p. 12).[Pg 127] Add the cream. Boil for two or three minutes, stirring continually. Strain.
¹⁄₂ pint milk
1 tea-cup bread-crumbs
1 onion
2 pepper-corns
1 tea-spoon butter
Slice the onion and boil it in the milk with the pepper-corns until very tender. Strain off the milk and add it to the bread-crumbs which should be made from stale bread and be very finely grated. Allow the sauce to stand covered for a few minutes. Add the butter. Stir in thoroughly. Season and serve very hot.
1 large head of celery
¹⁄₂ pint milk or cream
1 table-spoon white roux
Use the best of the celery only. Cut it in small pieces. Cook it in water until very tender. Put through a sieve. Add it to the cream or milk. Thicken with a small table-spoon white roux (see p. 12). Season.
[Pg 128]
(For Duckling or Goose)
1 gill spinach juice
¹⁄₂ pint stock
¹⁄₂ pint gooseberries
1 table-spoon sugar
1 tea-spoon butter
Cook the gooseberries till tender. Rub them through a sieve. Put them in a sauce-pan on the fire. Add the sugar (more if preferred) and butter. When thoroughly mixed, add the stock with which the spinach juice (see p. 104) has been mixed. Make very hot.
(For Rabbit or Fowl)
1 lemon
1 liver of fowl or rabbit
¹⁄₂ pint melted butter
1 table-spoon chopped parsley
Cook the liver, pound it and put it through a sieve. Peel the lemon, cut the inside, from which the pips must be removed, into very small dice-shaped pieces. Add the lemon and liver to the melted butter. Heat gently, but do not boil. Add the parsley.
[Pg 129]
Small bunch of parsley
¹⁄₂ pint melted butter
Boil the parsley for five minutes. Drain. Chop finely. Add to the melted butter.
Or,
To one gill of water in which a fowl has been boiled, add one gill of cream, one dessert-spoon white roux (see p. 12), seasoning and the boiled and chopped parsley.
¹⁄₂ pint veal stock
¹⁄₄ lb. mushrooms
Small bouquet of herbs
¹⁄₂ an onion
¹⁄₂ pint cream
Breast of a fowl
Juice of half a lemon
1 tea-spoon flour
Let the veal stock simmer for half-an-hour with the mushrooms, onion, and herbs. Then strain. Thicken with the flour. Boil two or three minutes. Add the boiling cream. Set back on the fire and add the finely pounded breast, lemon juice and seasoning. Do not allow the sauce to boil after the chicken has been added.
[Pg 130]
1 gill veal or chicken stock
1 gill cream
Juice of half a lemon
Juice of half a Seville orange
Mix all together. Heat gently, stirring continually. Season.
[Pg 131]
PAGE | |
---|---|
Cream Sauce | 132 |
Game Sauce | 132 |
German Sauce | 133 |
Madeira Sauce | 133 |
Orange Sauce | 134 |
Sauce Poivrade | 134 |
Sour Cream Sauce | 135 |
[Pg 132]
The gravy from two roasted birds
1 gill cream
Stir the cream into gravy of the birds with which it is to be served. Season. Add a few drops of lemon.
2 onions
A bouquet of thyme, bay leaf and parsley
Several pieces of game
1 slice of ham
1 oz. of butter
4 table-spoons of Madeira
¹⁄₂ pint brown sauce (see p. 118)
Cut the onions, ham and game into small pieces. Add to them the bouquet. Fry them gently in the butter. Add the Madeira. Simmer twenty minutes. Add the sauce and simmer ten minutes. Pass through a sieve.
[Pg 133]
¹⁄₂ pint rich brown stock
1 tea-spoon glaze
Pheasant bones
12 mushrooms
1 glass white wine
Break the pheasant bones. Add them to the stock. Simmer half-an-hour. Add the mushrooms. Simmer till tender. Put through a sieve. Add glaze, seasoning and glass of wine.
¹⁄₂ onion
¹⁄₂ carrot
1 bay leaf
2 cloves
1 slice ham
1 gill brown stock or gravy
¹⁄₂ pint brown sauce (see p. 118)
1 glass Madeira
Cayenne
Juice of half a lemon
Slice the onion and carrot. Put them, with the bay leaf, clove and the ham, cut in small pieces, in a sauce-pan. Cover with the brown stock. Boil up quickly. Simmer half-an-hour. Season. Add Madeira, brown sauce and lemon juice. Rub through a fine sieve. Colour with[Pg 134] caramel colouring (see p. 13) if not dark enough, and stir in the butter.
2 Seville oranges
¹⁄₂ lemon
1 glass red wine
1 gill brown gravy
1 lump of sugar
Grate the yellow part of the skin of one orange very finely. Add it to the brown gravy. Simmer a few minutes. Add the wine, the juice of two oranges and half a lemon, a little cayenne and the sugar. Serve with game or wild duck.
1 oz. butter
2 onions
1 carrot
2 cloves
1 bay leaf
1 tea-spoon flour
1 glass red wine
1 glass water
1 table-spoon vinegar
Melt the butter, add the onions and carrot sliced, the cloves, bay-leaf and flour. Cook[Pg 135] until a good brown, then add the wine, water and vinegar. Boil half-an-hour. Strain. Season with salt and whole pepper. Serve with game.
2 ozs. butter
2 yolks of eggs
1 table-spoon flour
1 gill sour cream
1 gill brown stock
A little nutmeg
A few drops of lemon juice
Cook the butter and flour together, but do not brown. Take off the fire and add the yolks. When thoroughly mixed add the cream and stock, salt, nutmeg and lemon. Heat but do not boil. Pass through a tammy. Heat again without boiling.
[Pg 136]
PAGE | |
---|---|
Anchovy Butter | 137 |
Horse-radish Sauce | 137 |
Mayonnaise Sauce | 138 |
Mint Sauce | 138 |
Sauce for Cold Fish | 139 |
Sauce Gaillarde | 139 |
Sauce Moutarde | 140 |
Sauce Ravigote | 140 |
Sauce Remoulade | 141 |
[Pg 137]
4 ozs. anchovies
6 ozs. butter
Wash and dry the anchovies. Pound them and put them through a sieve. Beat the butter to a cream and add to it the anchovies.
2 table-spoons grated horse-radish
1 tea-spoon mustard
1 dessert-spoon sugar
1 table-spoon vinegar
2 table-spoons thick cream
It is essential in making this sauce that the horse-radish should be grated as fine as possible. Mix all together, adding the vinegar slowly, and the cream last of all.
[Pg 138]
1 or 2 raw yolks of egg
Olive oil
Vinegar
Put the yolk into a bowl and beat it slightly. Add the oil drop by drop, stirring continually in one direction, and working it well against the sides of the bowl. When the sauce becomes thick, the oil may be added more quickly. Continue adding oil until sufficient sauce has been made. Add vinegar, salt, pepper to taste. This sauce should be made in a cold place and will take about fifteen minutes to make. Finely chopped tarragon, chervil and olives may be added to the mayonnaise.
1 handful of mint chopped
1 gill vinegar
2 table-spoons powdered or brown sugar
Melt the sugar in the vinegar. Chop the mint very fine. It cannot be too fine. Add it to the vinegar.
[Pg 139]
4 anchovies
3 yolks (hard boiled)
2 yolks (raw)
1 tea-spoon mustard
Oil
Vinegar
A little smoked salmon
Clean, bone and pound the anchovies with the hard boiled eggs. Add the mustard and raw yolks, stirring all the time. Add vinegar and oil until you have a sufficient quantity of sauce, using three times as much oil as vinegar, and stirring continually and always in the same direction. Add salt, pepper and a little shredded smoked salmon.
2 hard boiled eggs
2 gherkins
4 small pickled onions
A little tarragon and chervil
Oil
Vinegar
Crush the yolks and add to them the whites, gherkins, onions, tarragon and chervil finely chopped. Add oil very slowly, turning continually from left to right until the quantity of sauce required has been made. Add one or two table-spoons of vinegar. Salt, pepper and a little mustard.
[Pg 140]
2 hard boiled yolks
2 table-spoons olive oil
3 table-spoons vinegar
1 table-spoon mustard
1 small handful tarragon
Crush the yolks and add to them the oil, salt, pepper, vinegar and mustard. Stir well together. Chop the tarragon very finely. Add it to the sauce.
2 hard boiled yolks
2 raw yolks
1 dessert-spoon mustard
Tarragon, shallot, parsley, chives
Capers, gherkins
Oil
Vinegar
Pound and pass the hard boiled yolks through a sieve. Mix them thoroughly with the raw yolk and mustard. Add oil as for mayonnaise until the required quantity is made. Season. Add vinegar to taste and a little very finely chopped tarragon, shallot, parsley, and chives. Just before serving add a table-spoon capers and chopped gherkins.
[Pg 141]
1 hard boiled yolk
1 raw yolk
1 coffee-spoon mustard
1 large table-spoon chopped shallots, parsley and chervil
Oil
Vinegar
Put the hard boiled and raw yolk with the mustard in a basin. Mix thoroughly with a wooden spoon. Add the oil very slowly, stirring continually in one direction. The quantity of oil used depends on the quantity of sauce required. Add a large table-spoon of finely chopped parsley, chervil and shallots. A very little vinegar, salt and pepper.
THE END
[Pg 143]
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