*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 78002 ***




THE

LADIES’ HAND-BOOK

OF

MILLINERY AND DRESSMAKING,

WITH

PLAIN INSTRUCTIONS FOR MAKING THE MOST USEFUL ARTICLES OF DRESS AND
ATTIRE.

WITH ADDITIONS BY AN AMERICAN LADY.


NEW YORK: J. S. REDFIELD, CLINTON HALL.

MDCCCXLIV.




ENTERED, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1843,

BY J. S REDFIELD,

in the Clerk’s Office of the District Court of the United States, for
the Southern District of New York.


STEREOTYPED BY REDFIELD AND SAVAGE, 13 CHAMBERS STREET, N. Y.




CONTENTS.


 INTRODUCTION                                                         5

                               CHAPTER I.
 MILLINERY                                                            9

   Directions in bonnet-making. Materials. Drawn bonnets. Silk bonnets.
 Children’s bonnets. Mourning bonnets. Directions for cap-making. Night
 caps. Day caps. Net dress caps. Bonnet caps. Helmet caps. Widows’ caps.
 Capotte. Lappets. Collars and capes. Widows’ collars. Turbans.

                               CHAPTER II.
 DRESSMAKING                                                          31

   Silk or stuff dresses. Muslin and print dresses. Children’s dresses.
 Frocks for girls. Mantelet. Ladies’ silk cloaks. Capes. Carriage cloak.
 Garden cloak. A boy’s cloak. Piping. Plaits. Tucks.

                               CHAPTER III.
 CONCLUSION                                                           56




INTRODUCTION.


In a community like that in which we live, where respectability of
appearance is essentially important to our prospects in life, and
where, at the same time, the means of the vast mass of the population
are more or less limited, a wise and judicious economy is one of the
most valuable habits which can be formed and practised by those who see
a family rising up around them, with daily-increasing wants, and whom
they are naturally and laudably desirous of introducing into the busy
scenes of the world with that education, and those capabilities, which
appear most likely and best calculated to insure success.

So strong is the wish in the bosom of the parent to see his offspring
prosperous and respected, and to save them, as much as may be, from
those difficulties which beset his own path in his youthful career,
that we must consider it as an innate propensity of our nature, which,
though often abused and carried to a most criminal excess, is yet
planted in the bosom of man, by his all-gracious Creator, for the best
and most salutary of purposes.

This feeling of anxiety for the well-being of our offspring, is, to
a very considerable extent, manifested by both parents; but it more
especially exhibits itself in the conduct and habits of the wife and
mother. We have witnessed, with the most acute pain, the sacrifices
willingly and cheerfully made by conjugal and maternal affection, in
order that the husband and the child might be able to appear as she
thought they ought among their connexions and associates; and we deem
it the duty of all to do the utmost in their power to point out the
means by which this proper and praiseworthy desire may be gratified,
without incurring those serious privations which the effort for its
accomplishment not unfrequently occasions.

Clothing is an item in the expenses of a family, especially if that
family consists of a number of females, of no inconsiderable moment;
and though the materials of dress are at the present time exceedingly
low, it must be borne in mind that the remuneration for most kinds
of labor is also low, and that the cost of making up apparel nearly
doubles that of the materials. That a knowledge of the most common
principles of millinery and dressmaking would be of essential service,
both to young ladies and the maternal heads of families, no one, we
presume, will venture to deny; and that such knowledge is seldom
acquired, is a fact equally beyond the verge of dispute. It is often
felt that the means placed at her disposal by the husband’s and the
father’s industry are inadequate, without much contrivance, to support
the mother and daughters in that respectability of appearance they are,
very properly, desirous of maintaining; and those efforts to lessen
expenditure are made which, for want of the necessary instruction,
often end in aggravating the evils they were intended to diminish.

To all ladies thus situated this little hand-book is respectfully
presented; and the author cherishes the hope that it will prove
eminently useful in imparting those elementary principles of
information, upon confessedly-important subjects; which will enable the
noble-minded females of the United States to secure many blessings of
which they are at present deprived: to assume that respectability of
appearance which their modest worth and home-virtues so well qualify
them to adorn; and to enable them, with serenity and cheerfulness of
mind, to cultivate those high moral faculties which are the glory of a
nature made only “a little lower than the angels.”




MILLINERY AND DRESS-MAKING.




CHAPTER I.

MILLINERY.


DIRECTIONS FOR BONNET-MAKING.

That there is a charm in a neat and well-made bonnet, is a fact that
no one will be disposed to deny, because all feel it; and it appears
almost like an instinct of our nature to desire that the head-dresses
of those forms of loveliness which move around us, and whose sweet
smiles constitute the sunshine of our lives, should be worthy of the
fair faces they are intended to adorn. Fashion is ever changing, so
that to lay down invariable rules for any portions, and especially
those which may be considered the ornamental ones, of female attire,
is altogether impossible: still the general principles are invariable,
and the alterations demanded by the fickle goddess who presides over
the ladies’ wardrobe exhibits her power, not so much in the alterations
of general costume as in an ever-varying attention to details; so that
of most articles of dress it may be said, “Ever varying, still the
same.”[*]

[*] The latest fashions can always be seen, however, at Mrs. DEUEL’S,
297 Broadway,--a lady of taste and judgment, who stands at the head of
her profession.

It is, then, essential that all to whom time and economy of expense
are of any value, should be well grounded in those general principles
which regulate the preparation of the various articles of dress; and
those who are so grounded will find little difficulty in adapting
such general knowledge to any particular details which the changes of
fashion may render it advisable to adopt.

Millinery embraces the preparation of bonnets, caps, collars, and
some other articles. We shall treat of these matters as clearly and
concisely as possible, and hope that our labors will be found highly
conducive to the interests and convenience of those we are especially
desirous of instructing.

We commence with bonnet-making. The first thing to be attended to is
to have all the materials ready before the work is commenced, otherwise
much confusion and loss of time will be the consequence. Next, it will
be necessary, in making up these articles, to use as much despatch as
is compatible with accuracy and neatness. The materials employed are
in general of a light and delicate-colored fabric; and leaving them
to be tumbled and crushed in a work-basket, or on a table, is one
effectual way to get them so spoiled as to render them unfit for use.
On the other hand, care must be taken not to make more haste than good
speed. Though it is necessary to use despatch in making up a bonnet, it
is equally necessary that the utmost care and neatness should appear
in every part. If the work is so done as to make some contrivance
indispensable in order to hide an ill-finished corner, and other parts
which require the utmost correctness, the whole will appear vulgar
and slovenly, and will at once evince either culpable ignorance or
carelessness in the maker.

Much diversity of opinion exists as to the colors most to be preferred
for bonnets. For young persons, bonnets look well made of shaded
silks; but for adults, silks of a light and undecided color are, we
think, most elegant. No doubt, in the choice both of material and of
color, considerable deference must be paid to the prevailing fashion.
It is well to avoid the two extremes into which some people are very
apt to fall. The one is an entire disregard to the prevailing taste,
and the other a servile submission to its tyrannic sway. A medium
course is the only sensible one, and, in this, good sense will dictate
how far to go and where to stop.

Amid the variety of shapes for bonnets, the straight cottage form may,
in our opinion, claim the pre-eminence: they will always, more or
less, be fashionable, being general favorites. Drawn bonnets have been
much worn, and are not likely to be soon out of favor; they are well
adapted for summer, and have an exceedingly neat appearance if proper
pains are taken in the construction of them; they have also another
advantage--they may be made of almost any material, and look well
either in silk or satin. Net is also employed for the same purpose,
and made either of white or colored muslin; they look extremely pretty.
We hope the following directions will enable any young lady to make her
own.

If the bonnet is a full-sized one, and is made of muslin the width of
common print, the required quantity is one yard and a quarter; and if
the material be silk or satin, two yards will be found necessary. The
canes are bought ready prepared, or you may use whalebone for the slots
if you prefer it: it has one advantage, that is, it is not so liable to
break as the canes are; of course it is much dearer. Having got all the
requisite articles, you proceed to make the bonnet as follows: First,
make a foundation, either of willow or pasteboard, the shape you design
the article to assume when finished, and you may make the crown and
front of the bonnet all in one, or in separate pieces, whichever you
think best. We shall first give directions for making a drawn bonnet,
with the front and crown in one. This method is thus executed: It may
be proper to premise, that in making a drawn bonnet with the crown
and front in one piece, you find yourself obliged to join a piece of
the material to the crown as neatly as possible, as neither silk nor
satin is of a sufficient width, unless the bonnet be very small. You
are first to take one yard and a quarter of the silk, and doubling
it lengthwise, round off the corners by the pattern previously made;
then slit the silk down the middle, and run it together at the outer
edge. Then turn it so as to have the running on the inside. Next make
the places to receive the canes. You are to make four or five of these
runners close to the edge, all round, in order to give it sufficient
strength, and just wide enough to admit the canes. Above these the
other runners are to be made about half an inch distant from each
other, and with a small hole to admit the canes; when the latter have
been put in, these holes are to be sewed up. The runners are to be
made with sewing silk, which is not to be cut off, but left, as by its
means you can the more easily draw the bonnet to the proper shape.
Continue these runners until you have completed the whole front, and
then proceed to make the crown thus: Make runners the same distance as
in the front, and the same number close at the top as you made in the
edge. Having finished all the runners, measure the proper length of
the canes by the pattern, cut them off, and insert them; you must also
insert a wire of sufficient strength in the place of the second cane
from the edge. You are then to draw up the silk both of the front and
the crown to its proper size, by means of the silk ends you left to the
runners, and fasten them as neatly and securely as possible. What is
called the head-lining, is a piece of silk or muslin, neatly hemmed,
and of the same depth as the crown, which having inserted, you cut the
curtain from the silk, three quarters of a yard in length, and half a
quarter deep; this curtain is to be finished by a narrow slip cut on
the cross, sewn on to it, turned over, and hemmed neatly down on the
under side. The curtain is cut crosswise of the silk. In preference to
the narrow slip, some persons put a cord round the edge of the curtain,
which must have a runner and cane at the top, on which you draw it to
the size required. The bonnet is now complete, and can be trimmed as
taste and fancy may direct.

Another method of making this kind of bonnets is to have the front and
crown separate. In this case, the front is made in the same manner as
in the former example in all respects. The same length of material is
required, which is to be doubled and cut in the same manner. For the
crown you make a foundation of willow or stiff muslin, and you must
so make the round patch at the top as that it will stand half an inch
above the edge. This top piece is to be covered with plain silk, and
before you cover the sides of the crown you must sew it on to the
front; you need not have the crown double silk, as an inferior material
for the lining is quite sufficient. You make runners for the crown, and
prepare the curtain as before directed.

Bonnets of this kind, when formed all in one piece, are best made of
muslin or of net, and they are especially light and agreeable in the
sultry days of summer.

Bonnets of various shapes are made of plain and figured silk or satin,
and must in all cases be formed upon a stiff foundation. The best and
most economical way is to purchase a foundation of the shape required,
which is to be found in the different millinery establishments. Having
procured one to your mind, proceed as follows: Detach the crown from
the front, and shape the material by the pattern, tack the lining and
the outside to the front and cord, or otherwise secure the edges. Then
make the crown, covering the top first; then put on it the piece of the
material that is to go round, in a proper manner, and secure it at the
top by a single or double row of cord, fit it as tightly as possible
to the frame you had before prepared, and fasten it on at the back.
You then turn in the edges and set it on to the front. The edge of the
crown is to be outermost, or over that of the front. You put in the
head lining and attach the curtain as in the former examples, and trim
it as you choose.

Bonnets for children are, for the most part, made in the same manner,
and of the same materials.

An acquaintance with the directions here given will soon enable any one
to make a bonnet of almost any shape. The principles are the same in
all, and details can not be learned from books--they can only be the
result of observation and experience.

Mourning bonnets are made of black silk and trimmed with crape, or, if
for deep mourning, covered with crape. In trimming mourning bonnets,
the crape bow and strings are generally broad hemmed, the double hem
being from half an inch to one inch broad. For very deep mourning, the
front of the bonnet has a fall or veiling of crape, half a yard deep
and a yard and a half long, having a broad hem at the lower edge. The
upper edge, being drawn up to the size of the front, is either inserted
between the covering and the lining, or is set in along the upper edge
and covered with a fold of crape.


DIRECTIONS IN CAP-MAKING.

The next branch of millinery to which we shall direct attention is that
of cap-making. Some attempts have been made recently to discard the use
of night-caps, as detrimental to health; but it is not likely that such
old friends will be speedily abandoned at the dictum of new and untried
theories. We give the two following examples as among the best we
know; of course the variety of shapes is almost beyond calculation.

NIGHT CAPS.--The first is made as follows: The head-piece is made of
one piece of thick muslin, and the crown, which is in the shape of a
horseshoe, of another. You must be careful to have both quite large
enough to admit of the cap being drawn up to the size required, which
is done either by a strong thread or fine bobbin, run into the slots
indicated in the accompanying engraving. Having drawn up both parts to
the proper size for the head, you unite them with a cord run in between
them, and overcast the raw edges on the inside. You sew the front and
ends into a narrow band of muslin made double: then finish by setting
on the border and strings, as shown in the pattern.

[Illustration: Line drawing of a night cap (first example).]

The next example we shall give may be either made entirely of muslin,
or of muslin and lace. The cap itself is made of muslin, and drawn to
the proper size of the head by means of slots, as in the last pattern.
The crown is gathered full at the head-piece. The trimmings may be
either entirely of muslin, or they may be set with lace at the edge;
in either case, they must be first whipped, and then set on to the cap
full. You must be careful not to hold the lace edging too tight while
setting it on. These are very elegant night caps, and the details may
be varied at pleasure.

[Illustration: Line drawing of a night cap (second example).]

DAY CAPS are worn by most married ladies, and by some that are still
single. They are of a great variety of shapes, and almost all kinds of
material, but especially lace, and plain or figured net; both white,
colored, and black, are used in the making of them. To insure accuracy
and prevent waste, it is always advisable to cut the patterns in paper.
The following may be made either in white or colored net, and looks
extremely well:

First pattern: Make a head-piece or front of the annexed shape, cutting
it by a paper pattern the size required; then in a similar manner
cut the crown, which is in the shape of a large horseshoe. The double
head-piece is short at the back, but long at the ears, and you will
require half a yard of net, of the ordinary width, to make one cap.
You cut out the head-piece first, and put the kind of wire called
riband-wire all round it; you then set the crown in plain at the top,
and the fulness plaited in neatly at the bottom: the width must not
exceed two inches. This cap is trimmed with riband, one piece of which
is to be placed across the cap where the crown and the head-piece meet.
For the border you will require from three to four yards either of
net or lace, which having plaited, you set on full at the sides, and
quite plain in the centre. The border at the back is set on full, and
you have strings of riband. Some ladies wear an artificial flower, or
flowers, which gives to the cap an elegant and appropriate finish.

[Illustration: The first day cap pattern. It consists of two shapes:
the first shape is labelled “Front.” The second shape is labelled
“Crown.”]

Second pattern: This is made of one piece of net, which is cut as
shown in the accompanying figure. It is the most easy to make of any
shape we know. The ears are formed by the corners; the front is formed
and kept in shape by a riband-wire; and the crown is made by plaiting
in the back. It may be trimmed and bordered as in the first pattern.

[Illustration: The second day cap pattern. It is labelled “Front.” at
the top and “Back.” at the bottom.]

DRESS CAP.--This is made of net, and is formed of two pieces,
exclusively of the border and trimmings. The pattern must be cut in
paper both for the head-pieces and the crown. The head-piece is, when
opened, twelve and a half nails long, and two wide. The paper pattern
is only a half one, and the material is to be doubled before cutting
it. You cut from the front in a slant line, commencing at the point
of the double, and reducing the open ends half a nail; you also slit
from the back at the bottom, one nail and a half in depth, leaving the
extremities only an obtuse point. The crown is in length four nails
and three quarters, and five nails wide. You cut off from the top,
having previously doubled it half a nail, sloping it round at the
corners: the bottom corners are done in a similar manner. Make the
cap up by first putting wire round the head-piece, and then, having
previously whipped the crown, setting it on plain for about two nails
above the ears, and the remainder in small plaits, quite to the front.
The back is also plaited a little to make it fit properly to the head;
and in cutting the slants for the head-piece, you must do it in the
shape of a quarter of a circle. The cap is bordered with blonde, or
lace set on full, and a small bow is put on at the back. Over the
front a riband, either white or colored, is brought, which is left of
sufficient length to form the strings.

[Illustration: Line drawing of a dress cap.]

If you would have this cap more ornamental, take two pieces of wire,
a little shorter than the front, and quill them with the same kind of
blonde, or lace, as that of which the border is made, but narrower than
the border, and not so full. The wires are to be covered with a narrow
riband, and one of them is set on at the joining of the crown and
head-piece, and the other between it and the border.

A BONNET CAP.--This is made of net, and is neat and convenient. You
commence by taking a square of seven nails, which you double, and the
back is hollowed out a little. You then hem the front and the back, and
join it up at the top with a piece of lace, satin, or riband, about
one nail in length; the rest of the top is whipped and gathered to the
point of the insertion work. The border is of blonde, net, or lace, and
is set on full and double at the sides, single and plain in front. A
simple flower placed between the double border on each side, is a neat
and tasteful addition.

[Illustration: Line drawing of a bonnet cap.]

A HELMET CAP.--This is made up for a morning dress, and is easily done.
The usual material is tulle, or lisse. It is in three parts, and is
made as follows. The pattern for the sides must be four nails long,
and two nails and three quarters broad. The front is a little sloped,
and the back is curved from the ears about half a nail. This curve
must be two nails in depth from the front, and you slope upward from
this point two nails and a half; leave half a nail straight, and round
off the corners at the top to one nail and a quarter; the rest is left
straight. Having thus cut the side pieces, you must take a strip of
the net, three quarters of a yard long and two nails broad, in front,
gradually decreasing to one nail and a quarter; behind this you must
gather evenly on both sides, and set on to the other pieces full all
the way. The cap will then resemble the accompanying figure. You wire
both the front and the back, and bind them with riband. The stitches
are to be concealed by a riband or rouleon of satin, and you trim the
cap as fancy or good taste may dictate.

[Illustration: Line drawing of a helmet cap.]

WIDOW’S CAP.--The making of this requires care. The material is white
crape or book muslin. The pattern must be cut in paper, which is to
be laid on the material. The latter, of course, must be doubled.
The paper for the crown is the full length, but only half the width
required. Get a piece of paper seven and a half nails long, and three
and a half nails wide. This you slope on one side; and commencing from
the double, you measure two nails and three quarters, and then proceed
in a line slightly curved upward, for three nails and three quarters,
from which you round off the corner two nails and a half, leaving one
nail straight at the top. For the half head-piece, your paper must be
one nail and a quarter in width, and three nails and three quarters in
length. The ends of this are sloped from the corner on one side, so as
to reduce the other three quarters of a nail. The cap is made up by
setting the crown into the head-piece, the shortest side of which joins
it, and you must be sure to throw most of the fulness to the front;
then hem it both before and behind, and set on the borders, which are
made of the same material as the cap, and are one quarter of a nail
broad. They are set on as full as possible, and are doubled in front.
The borders are hemmed, and a round stick is run through, which gives
them the appearance of being crimped. A tape is put through each
hem, by which it is drawn to its proper size and kept in its place.
Binders are laid upon the head-piece, which are made in the following
manner: You require a piece of the material two yards in length, and
one nail and a half broad. In this you make a tuck, in the middle, and
a broad hem on each side; through these the stick used for the border
is put, and a tape is run in as before, and for the same purpose. These
bands are fastened behind. The chin band is made nearly in the same
manner. Both edges are hemmed and crimped with the stick, and are also
furnished with a tape. The length is three quarters of a yard, and
there is no plain piece left between the hems. These are pinned on each
side of the ears of the cap.

[Illustration: Line drawing of a widow’s cap.]

A CAPOTTE.--This is often worn by young ladies who are liable to take
cold. It is thus made: A piece of silk or satin riband is taken of the
proper length for a cap front, and not quite two nails in breadth,
which is reduced to half a nail, by the insertion of a riband-wire
at each edge. Cross pieces of wire in the middle and at each end are
introduced, for the purpose of keeping the riband its full width.
Another piece of wire, covered with riband, the same as the front, goes
at the back of the head, the length of which must be made to fit the
wearer, and care must be taken that it does so in as accurate a manner
as possible, as almost all the comfort and ease of the capotte depend
upon it. This is firmly sewed on to the front, a little above the ears.
The border is of net, blonde, or tulle, and set on to the front in
plaits; upon the edge a satin or gauze riband is laid in folds, so as
to cover the stitches and form the strings. A similar one is laid upon
the back, and sometimes a small bow is placed there in addition. You
trim the border according to taste or the prevailing fashion.

[Illustration: Line drawing of a capotte.]

LAPPETS.--These are made of net, lace, or blonde, set on, as a double
border, to a riband, which forms the strings. They may be either
plaited all round, or left plain in front. In the latter case, a plain
piece of blonde is generally passed over the forehead.

COLLARS AND CAPES.--These are so numerous and various, both in their
shapes and materials, that to give particular examples in a hand-book
is impossible. The general principles in all are the same; they are
worn as a finish to the dress, and should be made to sit as neatly
upon the neck and shoulders as possible. Velvet, silk, net, lace, and
various kinds of muslin, are the materials employed; they are made
plain, and with worked edges, square-cornered, or in a semi-circular
form, as best suits the taste of the wearer, and the purpose they are
intended to answer. They are sometimes made with a small collar to turn
down upon a larger one; neat ones are made of clear muslin, with a
border of braid laid on in various tasteful devices. The widow’s collar
is made of book-muslin, with a broad hem at the edge, and over this
is placed black crape. The cuffs, generally from five to seven inches
deep, are made the same way and of the same materials. Collars for
slighter mourning are made of muslin, crape, or net.

TURBANS.--The foundation of a turban is usually made of slight buckram
or stiff muslin, cut so as to form a broad band for going round the
head, with a peak or point to rise above the forehead. This band has
a chip and thin wire at the upper and lower edges, and is lined with
persian or sarcenet. The material of which the turban is made (being
crape, tulle, or gauze--frequently a gauze handkerchief) is then pinned
on according to your pattern or your taste, with a few occasional
stitches. As turbans are rarely trimmed, they should be neatly put
together in every part. On all sides they should be finished so as to
bear the eye.

To make a turban in the Turkish style, two lengths of gauze, perhaps
two gauze scarfs, are twisted, one over the other, round the
foundation. A piece of the gauze is left over to cover the crown, and
the ornamented ends hang down on one side.




CHAPTER II.

DRESSMAKING.


INSTRUCTIONS IN CUTTING OUT A DRESS.


In many instances, to be able to cut out and make up a dress is an
acquisition of no small advantage to its possessor. This useful
branch of female education is not, in our opinion, cultivated with
that care its importance demands; and, in consequence, much expense
is often incurred where the money might be applied to other important
and necessary purposes. Some people have an idea that they can cut
out a gown or other dress merely by looking at one already made, or
by an inspection of the drawings, and in most cases very deficient
descriptions, found in books of the fashions: but this is a sad
mistake. No great exertions are necessary in order to become capable
of practising this part of domestic economy; but still its principles
must be understood, and its most simple rules impressed on the memory,
before anything like accuracy, to say nothing of proficiency, can be
attained.

No one will deny the importance of dress; it is, in fact, an index
to the character; and the female who is utterly regardless of her
appearance, may be safely pronounced deficient in some of the more
important qualities which the term “good character” invariably implies.
On the other hand, a regard to neatness and order, held in due
subordination to the exercise of the nobler faculties, will generally
be found to stand in close connexion with an earnest endeavor after the
attainment of intellectual and moral excellence. Thus, an attention to
neatness in dress, and to its judicious arrangement, so as to be in
accordance with the station and circumstances of the wearer, becomes of
much more moment than, on a superficial view of the subject, some might
be disposed to admit.

Most girls begin dressmaking very early; that is to say, when they
clothe their dolls: and very good practice it is. When their mother
gives them a remnant of print, and they turn it about, and measure
it to ascertain whether there is enough for a frock, and if there
is not enough for a frock, determine whether it shall be a petticoat
or a pinafore, and cut it out accordingly,--all this is practice in
dressmaking. When the doll is bidden to lie very still to be fitted,
and when she is laid sometimes on her face, sometimes on her back, and
sometimes held with her head downward, while a paper pattern of her
waist is being cut,--all this is practice in dressmaking. The practice
will be all the better if the mother can spare a minute to look on, and
point out that the front of the body may, if convenient, be cut on the
cross, but that the backs and arm pieces must be straightwise of the
cotton; and if she can just show how far back the join of the sleeve
should go, and how the skirt should be a little taken up in front, that
it may sit well, and not hang lower before than behind. It will be kind
in the mother, too, not to allow bad work in a doll’s dress, any more
than in her own gowns. If you have had a mother or a schoolmistress who
let you dress a doll, and made you do it neatly, you have had as good
an introduction to your future business as you could desire.

From making your doll’s frocks, your next step was, probably, to
make your own. Your first attempt, perhaps, was to run the seams of
the skirt of your cotton frock,--to run the selvage seams with a
backstitch, and, in case of a gore or half-breadth, to make a hem with
the selvage over the cut edge. If you puckered it in the least, I hope
you were made to take it out and do it again, taking care to pin the
edges together at short distances the whole length, that you might not
find, when you came to the bottom, that one breadth gave you an inch or
two over the other. Some few things about making a skirt should have
been explained to you at the beginning--things which are true about the
making of all skirts, through every change of fashion, and whether the
dress be of the coarsest stuff or the richest satin. These are--

1st. That you should pin or tack together the breadths of the skirt at
the top, before you begin, so that you may not chance to put in more
gores on one side than the other (if there are gores), or find that the
hind-breadth comes to one side.

2dly. That you should, while thus arranging the breadths, look very
carefully that no one breadth is turned wrongside out, if there are two
sides; or, if figured, with the pattern upside down.

3dly. That, as the uppermost edge takes up the most, as your work lies
over your finger, and as the cut edge stretches more than the selvage,
you should, as beforementioned, pin from top to bottom, before you
begin to join them, the breadths on which you are employed. This is the
surest way of avoiding puckering.

4thly. That you should, as often as possible, begin your run at the
top, so that if there is any left over, it may go off at the bottom,
where it is of the least consequence. You can do this in every case but
where you have to join a cut edge and a selvage, and must begin at the
bottom, in order to have the selvage uppermost.

5thly. That you must remember that gored skirts hang lower at the
bottom of the gores than either before or behind, and that the first
turning in of the hem should be therefore laid in rather deeper at the
sides of the skirt.

6thly. That you should make your fastenings so good as that the dress
may wear out before they give way. This is particularly important with
regard to the pocket-holes and the openings behind, which should be
well secured by stitching, or a bar at the turn. It is very trying to
a lady to find her skirt slit down behind the first time she slips her
gown over her head, or her pocket-hole give way before she has put her
hand into it half a dozen times.

With these remarks, and a proper share of attention, the following
instructions will remove much of the difficulty in which the novice in
the art of dressmaking finds herself involved.

First the materials for the intended dress must be procured, and it
is advisable, whenever practicable, to get them all at the same time.
The necessary requisites are the material, the lining for the body and
skirt, wadding, covering, hooks and eyes, silk, thread, and what is
called stiffening muslin. You will require all those for a silk dress,
and most of them for those of other fabrics.

Having thus procured the required articles, proceed to cut out the
dress, first measuring off the number of breadths of the proper length
for the skirt (which is, of course, to be regulated by the height of
the wearer, and by the manner in which it is intended to be made), and
try them carefully on one side. If tucks are to be introduced into
the skirt, a proper allowance must be made for these, as also for the
turnings both at top and bottom. You next cut out the sleeves, as being
the largest parts of the garment except the skirt. In cutting out the
sleeves, you must first prepare a paper pattern of the required shape;
then double the lining, and cut it exactly the shape of the paper,
leaving about an inch all round for the turnings in. You will thus cut
the sleeve linings both together, and will avoid some labor and all
danger of making one larger than the other. Double the silk or other
material so as that both the wrong sides may face each other, and cut
the sleeves by the lining just prepared. To secure exactness, it is
best to tack it to the material. Be careful to lay the straight side of
the pattern to the selvage of the silk.

The sleeves being thus prepared, proceed to take the proper measures
for the front and back of the body, by fitting a paper pattern to the
shape of the person for whom the dress is intended. The paper should
be thin, and you commence by folding down the corner the length of
the front, and pinning it to the middle of the stay-bone. Then spread
the paper as smoothly as possible along the bosom to the shoulder,
and fold it in a plait, so as to fit the shape exactly, and bring the
paper under the arm, making it retain its position by a pin; from this
point you cut it off downward under the arm, and along the waist; the
paper is then to be rounded for the arm-hole and the shoulder, and you
must recollect to leave it large enough to admit of the turnings. In
the same manner you proceed to form the back, pinning the paper down
straightly; and leaving sufficient for the hem, you fit it to the
shoulder and under the arm, so as to meet the front. You will thus
have an exact pattern of half of the body, and this is all that is
necessary, as, of course, you cut both sides, both of the front and
back, at the same time. The linings are to be cut by the pattern, and
the silk by the linings. You must take care to cut the front crosswise
of the silk, and in two separate pieces, which are afterward joined in
the middle. If the plait made in the pattern be very large, it must be
cut out on the silk, or the body will not fit well to the shape; if
small, it may be left: but we think that, in all cases, to cut it out
is the preferable method.

It is not generally advisable to cut out the half of the back all in
one piece, as it fits better with pieces joined at the sides; these are
called side-bodies; and this method should always be adopted, unless
the lady has a very flat back: in that case, it is best to cut the half
all in one piece. The backs must be cut straight; and it is best to
tack the material to the lining before cutting it.

Having thus prepared the several parts, begin to make the garment, by
running or seaming the breadths of the skirt together; and be sure that
it is made full: a narrow or straight skirt is now completely, and very
properly, exploded. Run the seams as evenly as possible, fastening the
ends to your knee, or to a pincushion screwed to the work-table, to
hold them firmly. Run the lining together in a similar manner, and
fasten each of the outside seams to a corresponding one in it; after
which turn the edges at the top down on the inside, and sew them firmly
together. Between the lining and the silk it is usual to introduce some
kind of material, as stiffened muslin or wadding, to hold the bottom of
the dress in its proper place. This is fastened to the lining, and the
silk is hemmed down upon it. Care must be taken that no stitches appear
on the right side. An opening in one of the seams must be left for the
pocket-hole, which must not exceed one quarter of a yard in length. You
run the silk and the lining together, as at the top, and make a plait
which is to be folded over on the right side; this is secured at the
bottom, and conceals the opening. Having thus completed the skirt, to
which flounces may be added, or into which tucks may be introduced,
if deemed advisable (they seldom are in silk dresses), you proceed to
make the sleeves, running up a cord on one side of the silk or other
material, and folding both the silk and the lining the same way, you
stitch them together, and leave an opening at the wrist; you then turn
the sleeve, and the edges being on the inside are not seen. The sleeve
being thus seamed up, it is, if full, to be gathered, or done in small
plaits at the bottom, to the size of the wrist. The gathers, or plaits,
are set into a narrow band, lined, and you cord as you please, or as
is most in accordance with the prevailing fashion. You next put on the
trimmings at the top of the sleeve, and then set it into the arm-hole
with small plaits. Some put on the trimmings after the sleeve has
been set on to the body; but it is a most incorrect and inconvenient
practice.

The next thing to be done is to put the several parts of the body or
waist together. This should be done slightly, and the body tried on,
in order that the fit may be made as perfect as possible. When this
is done, sew the parts firmly together, and put a cord over all the
joinings except those under the arms. Fasten the plaits down on the
fronts, hem the parts which require it, cut the proper shape round
the neck, and see that the arm-holes are so made as to be easy and
agreeable. Then hem the back, stitch the dress up the front as firmly
as you can, and do the same at the shoulders, the side-bodies, and
under the arms; after which you must put a cord or band at the waist,
and also insert a cord round the neck. This cording of the neck and
waist require much care and attention; for if not done properly, the
appearance of the dress will be spoiled. In case you prefer a band to a
cord at the waist, it must be lined, and the lining put on first, and
afterward covered with the material of which the dress is composed.
If there be any trimming on the body, it must be put on before the
sleeves are set in. A cord is to be set round the arm-holes as neatly
as possible.

The body being now finished, you have only to set it on to the skirt,
which is to be doubled more in front than at the back, in order to form
the slope. You gather the part not plaited, and join it to the body.
In setting on the back, it is best not to gather it, but to fold each
gather as you proceed: this secures an evenness not otherwise easily
to be obtained. The depth of the slope varies, and no certain rule
can be given, except that in all cases the skirt must be a little
shorter before than behind; otherwise much inconvenience will be found
in walking, especially where it is the fashion to wear the dress of a
considerable length.

It is often deemed desirable to have a cape to the dress of the same
material. This is often found to be a great convenience; and no great
art, though a proper degree of attention, is required in making it.
The lining is to be tacked to the silk or stuff, and the cape cut out
by a paper pattern the size and shape required. Before taking out the
tacking thread, a cord should be run in at the edges, and these latter
are to be turned, and the lining sewed down firmly upon them. You now
take out the thread, and ornament or leave the cape plain, just as
you please. In making flounces, you must remember that they must in
all cases be cut on the cross, otherwise they will not hang with that
degree of exactness and freedom which is desirable. They are to be run
on a cord at the top, the size of the skirt, and gathered. They should
also be corded at the lower edges. Sometimes a slot is made at the top
of the flounce, and the cord run in. This is much to be preferred to
the common method.

Tucks, with or without open work between them, have an exceedingly neat
appearance, and never look out of fashion. They are especially proper
in black and white dresses; and when they are put on, it is essential
that they should be cut straightwise of the material. To cut them
crosswise is decidedly improper. It is sometimes good economy to make
the sleeves of a dress in two separate parts each, so that the lower
portion can be taken off at pleasure. For an evening dress this is
found very convenient, as the under part will come off at the elbow,
and a ruffle of lace can be substituted in its place, which gives a
short sleeve a neat and finished appearance.

The directions here given apply principally to dresses made of stuff or
silk. In those made of muslin or calico some slight variations occur.
These latter are not always lined; indeed, cotton prints for summer
wear are seldom done so; but the lining of muslin dresses is becoming
much more common than it was some years since, experience having shown
that the dress when lined through sits much neater upon the person
than it does without. In cases where linings are omitted, a piece of
some strong material must be run in at the bottom of the skirt, and
firmly held down with the hem. But we think a thin lining, even for the
light dresses worn in summer, is to be preferred. It is a good plan to
set a cord round the bottoms of dresses; they soon wear, but the cord
is a great advantage, as when it gets unsightly, a new one can with
little trouble be put in its place, and the dress remains the same
length as before.

If proper attention be paid to these directions, any lady may soon
learn to make her own dresses; to do which would be, in a variety of
instances, a decided advantage. Where there is a family of children,
the mother finds that if she has to have all their dresses made by
hired hands, it will most materially increase the expenses incurred
for clothing; and to avoid this, she does them herself, without the
requisite experience: the chance is that she wastes more in one way
than she saves in the other, and the garments are illy fitted in the
bargain.

In making children’s dresses, many of the directions already given
will be found equally applicable. Frocks for both boys and girls are
generally made with the bodies full, but the pattern must be cut
plain in paper, the same as in the garments intended for persons
of more mature age. The bodies of children’s frocks are often made
without linings, but, as a general rule, we think the practice is
exceptionable. The clothing of young persons should always be made so
as to support the frame, without cramping its growth, or impeding its
muscular action by unnecessary and injudicious pressure. The skirts
of frocks intended for little boys are often cut crosswise, and look
pretty and becoming. In dresses made of figured silk, or muslin, or
cotton prints (for children), the tucks should always be cut crosswise.
This is especially to be attended to in plaid patterns.

Frocks for girls are by some persons directed to be made to come
high up to the neck. This is, in our opinion, a practice that should
be avoided. The body, on the contrary, should be rather low, and
made to lie firmly upon the projecting part of the shoulder, but
not to fall off upon the upper arm: this is almost as unsightly as
the high body we disapprove of. The graceful form of the bust, one
of the most exquisite productions of creative skill, should by no
means be concealed; a necklace is its proper adornment; and should
it be said that the clothing them up to the neck is necessary on the
score of health, nothing can be farther from the truth. In fact, a
moderate exposure to the action of the sun and air is essential to the
possession of good health. The notion that to cover up the neck and
bosom of a little girl will prevent her taking cold, is ridiculous in
the extreme. It is the most likely way we know of, of securing the evil
it is intended to avoid. A holland or diaper pinafore, made to come up
to the throat, and put on at times of unusual exposure to the cold,
would answer every desirable end. We hope that all mothers, who may
read our observations, will at once abandon the idea of high-bodied
frocks being in any way conducive to the health or comfort of their
female children.

MANTELET.--In the making of this useful and favorite article of ladies’
attire, there is much variety in the materials employed. They are
sometimes made of shawling, but more commonly of silk, satin, cloth,
velvet, and merino. The mantelet comes down nearly to the knee, and is
lined either with silk or muslin, and occasionally with glazed cotton
cloth. The shape is that of the cape of a cloak, and should be cut by
a pattern to insure accuracy; five breadths of the material will be
required, and the neck is hollowed to make it fit comfortably; it can
be either gathered into a band or set on to a collar. In the latter
case, the collar must be made to turn over. You trim the mantelet in
any manner you think the most becoming, with velvet, satin, or fur;
or it may be trimmed with either fringe or lace. It is neat, and very
convenient for a lady, either for a short walk, or as a part of a
summer’s evening dress; in the latter case, the material and lining
should be as light as possible.

LADIES’ SILK CLOAK.--Choose a silk that is of a color not liable to
fade, of which six breadths are required, and the width of the cloak
is five breadths; the length is, of course, made according to the
height of the person who is to wear it. You cut the shoulder pieces
first in paper, taking a cloak already made for your guide, and having
fitted them exactly to the person, lay the paper upon the lining, and
cut it out; the silk is cut out by the lining; and be careful to leave
sufficient for the turnings in. Prepare the collar in the same way,
pointed at the corners and slanting toward the neck; the collar is
hollowed out at the top from the front corners, to a sufficient depth
behind, to insure its falling gracefully over the shoulders and back.
It is lined with silk, between which and the outside stiff muslin is
to be introduced. The shoulder pieces are to have flannel or wadding
between the silk lining and the material. Those who have no cloak at
hand from which to take a pattern for the shoulder pieces, may obtain
one by the following simple method: Take a piece of thin paper, and cut
it in the shape of a round collar; hollow it out at the top, until it
will lie over the shoulders perfectly straight and close.

The various parts being thus ready, proceed to make up the cloak. First
the breadths are to be seamed together, so as to show the stitches as
little as may be. One breadth is to be thrown to the back, and at one
nail and a half from the seam cut the arm-holes three and a quarter
nails long, and two and a quarter below the shoulder pieces, which are
to be next made by running the material and the lining together, with
the wadding between them, on the wrong side, and then turning them.
You next double the three back breadths, and hollow them so as to fit
the shoulder pieces; into which the whole is afterward to be set in
as full and even as possible, the two front breadths reaching to the
shoulder, and all the rest being set on to the back. At the distance
of four nails from the shoulder pieces, plait in the back so as to fit
the waist; and a band, of a sufficient length to encircle the person,
is laid upon the folds behind, and drawn to the inside through two
apertures cut on each side, and worked as button-holes; this band is
fastened by buttons or hooks in front. Sometimes a riband-case is made
on the inside, and strings run through it, which answers the same
end. You next make the collar in the same manner as you prepared the
shoulder-pieces, and set it on to the neck. These cloaks are trimmed
in various ways. The arm-holes, when not in use, are concealed by
pieces of the silk, three and a quarter nails in length, and half a
nail in breadth, which are lined and set on to one side. They must have
a row of piping set on all round. You may trim the fronts with a hem,
one nail and three quarters deep, of velvet, cut crosswise; or, if
you prefer it, you can substitute an edging of fur: but we think that
velvet looks the most handsome and becoming. The cloak is sewed round
the neck with silk cord of the same color, and finished with tassels,
or an ornamental clasp is adopted; either is suitable, and may be used
at pleasure.

These cloaks are very elegant, when properly made. Sometimes they are
furnished with capes of the same material, which are generally loose,
and are found very convenient. They may be worn as mantelets, without
the cloak, and are made as follows:

Take a sheet of paper as large as you intend half the cape to be, and
round off the corners so as to form it into a perfect circle; double
this, and from the straight side cut a small half round for the neck:
open the pattern, and from the front of the inner half circle double
one side in a slanting direction, for the opening in front. No precise
rule can be given; but the paper must be so fitted to the person that
the fronts may meet when the cape is worn. Having got your pattern
correct, cut out the lining by it, and lastly the silk for the cape;
both, but especially the outside, must be cut crosswise. The lining and
silk are to be neatly run together and then turned, and the back seam
seamed up. The trimming of the cape must be the same as that of the
cloak.

CARRIAGE CLOAK.--For persons who have to travel in cold seasons or in
open carriages, these cloaks afford a degree of warmth and comfort not
to be despised or disregarded. The material is either plaid or some
woollen fabric, and the manner of making a cloak of this description
is as follows: The material should be eleven nails in width, and the
general length of the cloak is one yard and a half. Of this, five
breadths are sufficient for the width of the skirt. The arm-holes are
made at the distance of five nails from the top, and are five nails
in length. This cloak is furnished with sleeves, which are sewn almost
plain into the arm-holes, and may be made use of or not, as is deemed
most convenient. They are made of squares of the material, eight nails
by eight, so that when doubled and sewn up they are eight nails long
and four in width. The cloak is gathered at the neck into a band the
proper width, and a collar is added, as are also one or more capes. The
length of the neck-band varies, but its medium length is ten nails.
This kind of cloak is lined throughout with calamanca, glazed cotton
cloth, or flannel; and it is a wrapper, without which no delicate
female should presume to travel in our uncertain climate. A neat
button, clasp, or chain, secures it at the throat.

GARDEN CLOAK.--This is a useful article, and is generally made of plaid
or merino. Three breadths of the latter, of what is called double
width, will be sufficient for the cloak; of the former you will require
five breadths. You cut the shoulder-pieces and the collar as before
directed, and the arm-holes are made in the same position as those in
a silk cloak; they are three nails and a half from the lower part of
the shoulder piece, and four nails in length. They are concealed by
pieces lined and piped, as those for a silk cloak. The whole of the
garment is lined with glazed cotton cloth, either of black or of any
other color that is deemed suitable, and fastened at the neck by a hook
or clasp.

A BOY’S CAPE OR CLOAK.--This may be made of Scotch plaid or any other
suitable material. You cut an entire circle, as large as you design the
cloak to be; in the centre of this, cut a small aperture, about twice
the size of that required for the neck, and cut thence to the edge on
one side; this makes the opening for the front. Gather the neck into a
band, hem the fronts on the outer edge, and the cloak is complete.

PIPING.--This is often used as an ornament or finish to silk cloaks or
other dresses. It is made in the following manner: enclose a cord of
the proper thickness in a strip of silk cut crosswise, and put it on in
the most even manner possible.

As plaiting and making tucks are much used in dress-making, we close
with directions concerning them.

In plaiting, make the plaits as even as possible; and in double
plaiting, they must be laid both ways, and made to meet in the middle.

Tucks require to be made even, and it is a good plan to run them by a
card cut the proper width. They must be run on with small and regular
stitches, and a backstitch must be taken constantly as you proceed.




CHAPTER III.

CONCLUSION.


In the foregoing pages, we have imbodied, in a concise but intelligible
form, a mass of information, which experience and observation have
convinced us was much needed by thousands and tens of thousands of
those who are the glory of the land that gave them birth, and who, amid
their scanty and limited means, are most laudably ambitious to appear,
in the truest sense of the word, respectable. To those, and to the
affectionate mothers and devoted wives, who are anxious to make the
most of the means placed at their disposal, we trust that our labor,
and it has been truly a “labor of love,” will prove an acceptable
offering. Already we behold, in mental vision, many a delighted mother
and daughter, conning over the lessons of useful economy we have
thus endeavored to impart, and rejoicing that at least one pen has
been devoted to aiding the but half-informed in the more economical
outlays of the proceeds of industry, and the bringing within the sacred
precincts of domestic life a new rivulet of prosperity and happiness.

In whatever light we view it, the needle is an object of the most
fascinating character. It is a home friend; and while it confers
upon us all unnumbered blessings, it is a source both of utility and
pleasure, that is within the reach of all. In joy and in sorrow, in
health and in sickness, in life and in death, it is our companion, our
solace, and our helper. Thus, ever ready to obey our guiding will, let
us be sure to profit by its silent but eloquent instructions. As the
needle turns not to the right hand or the left from the occupation
assigned, so let us pursue, with undeviating footsteps, the appointed
path of duty; and as it ever points with strict fidelity to the
attracting magnet, so let us in all our works, whether useful or
ornamental, turn to HIM “in whom we live, and move, and have our being.”

There is something calculated to afford high delight to the heart which
expands at the prospect of any increase in the sum of human happiness,
in the fact that, since the commencement of the present century, much
more attention has been paid to the subject of dress, by the mass of
society, than had been previously bestowed upon it. This is one of
the most favorable signs of the times, since it is closely, and in
some respects inseparably, connected with the elevation of the mental
standard, and the development of those higher powers by which human
nature is so prominently distinguished above the animal creation. No
one who has paid the least attention to the subject can doubt, for a
moment, the close alliance which subsists between the honest pride of
appearance and the desire to secure the highest attainable amount of
intellectual culture and improvement; and no one really possessing
a heart can refuse to rejoice in this undeniable mark of general
progression. We are sensible, that if not under proper guidance, this
desire to attain a more respectable and elevated position in society
may degenerate into a mere love of show and finery. But we are disposed
to look on the bright side of things, and to come to the conclusion
that elements are now at work which will produce not only a refined
and elevated taste, but a correct and well-regulated judgment. We
consider it the peculiar glory of our age, that woman is acknowledged
to be fully capable of, and worthy to share in, the most exalted
intellectual pursuits. To her, as well as to the boasted lords of the
creation, the treasures of art are freely opened; and she is invited
in the society of those most loved, to walk through the glorious paths
of knowledge, and to drink with them full draughts from the opened
fountains of enlarged information.

To render herself worthy of this her improved and still improving
condition, is the duty, and should be the pride, of every female. And
when it is considered how much a neat and becoming mode of attire adds
to the attractive force of woman’s charms, it will be at once seen,
that to attain that object with the least unnecessary sacrifice of
time, labor, and expense, is a matter of no mean consideration; and
that any effort tending to this end, however humble, is deserving
of the countenance and encouragement of all who are desirous of
co-operating in the designs of the benevolent Creator, and who,
recollecting that He himself has declared that “it is not good for
man to be alone,” are desirous of investing the fair forms of those
intended for our comfort and delight with every personal and mental
excellence, calculated to render them worthy of the highest esteem
and most devoted affection of the wise, good, and accomplished among
mankind.


THE END.




J. S. REDFIELD,

CLINTON HALL,

Corner of Nassau and Beekman streets,

PUBLISHES, AND HAS FOR SALE, WHOLESALE AND RETAIL,

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pictures of WEST, RAFFAELLE, RUBENS, MICHAEL ANGELO, GUIDO, POUSSIN,
and CARRACCI. The LANDSCAPE SCENES, from original drawings, by MEYER,
CASSAS, FORBIN, FRAZER, LABORDE, and others; and the subjects
of NATURAL HISTORY, of COSTUME, and of ANTIQUITIES, from ANCIENT
SCULPTURE, and from the best sources, ancient and modern.--With
_full Marginal References_; the latest and most authentic MAPS; an
elegantly-engraved FAMILY RECORD; and the TEXT, from the Standard
Edition of the AMERICAN BIBLE SOCIETY.

Pictorial New Testament.

The New Testament of our Lord and Savior Jesus Christ, with views of
places mentioned in the text, and accurate delineations of the costumes
and objects of Natural History.--With an AUTHENTIC MAP OF PALESTINE,
from _recent surveys_.


The Pictorial New Testament with the Book of Psalms.


Criminal History of England.

Criminal History of the English Government, from the first massacre of
the Irish to the poisoning of the Chinese. By E. REGNAULT. Translated
from the French by an American, with notes.

A vivid picture of the wrongs perpetrated by England upon the rights of
nations.


WARDLAW ON MAGDALENISM.

Lectures on Magdalenism; its Nature, Extent, Effects, Guilt, Causes,
and Remedy. By Rev. RALPH WARDLAW, D. D. Delivered and published by
special request of forty Ministers of the Gospel, and eleven hundred
fellow-Christians. From second Glasgow edition.


ROLLIN’S ANCIENT HISTORY.

The Ancient History of the Egyptians, Carthaginians, Assyrians,
Babylonians, Medes and Persians, Grecians, and Macedonians; including
a history of the Arts and Sciences of the Ancients. By CHARLES ROLLIN;
with a Life of the Author by JAMES BELL. 2 vols, octavo--with _maps_
and _plates_.


GUIZOT’S GIBBON.

History of the Decline and Fall of the Roman Empire. By EDWARD GIBBON,
ESQ. A new edition, revised and corrected throughout, preceded by a
preface, and accompanied by Notes, critical and historical, relating
principally to the propagation of Christianity: by M. F. GUIZOT,
Minister of Public Instruction for the Kingdom of France. 2 volumes,
octavo.


SEARS’ PICTORIAL ILLUSTRATIONS OF THE BIBLE.

The Pictorial Illustrations of the Bible and Views in the Holy Land.
Illustrated with 600 Engravings. By ROBERT SEARS. Three volumes.

Twenty-five thousand copies of this Work have been sold within two
years.


EASTERN ARTS AND ANTIQUITIES.

Eastern Arts and Antiquities--Being Illustrations of Manners, Customs,
Costumes, &c., &c., of the inhabitants of the Holy Land.--130
Illustrations.


BIBLE QUADRUPEDS.

Bible Quadrupeds--An account of the Quadrupeds mentioned in the Bible,
with sixteen splendid Engravings.




Transcriber’s Note


Italicized text is surrounded by underscores: _italics_.

Bold text is surrounded by equal signs: =bold=.

Small caps have been converted to ALL CAPS.

Erroneously placed or missing punctuation has been silently corrected.

Inconsistencies in hyphenation have been retained.

The following typographical errors have been changed:

p. 15: “coss” changed to “cross” (narrow slip cut on the cross)

p. 21: “aud” changed to “and” (full at the sides, and quite plain in
the centre)

p. 31: “aud” changed to “and” (other important and necessary purposes)

p. 54: “in” changed to “it” (and put it on in the most even manner)

p. 59: “atiire” changed to “attire” (becoming mode of attire)


*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 78002 ***