Grocers’ Manual:

CONTAINING

RECIPES, FORMULAS AND INSTRUCTIONS

FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF

BAKING POWDERS, FLAVORING EXTRACTS,
ESSENCES, CONDIMENTS, ETC.,


IN THEIR PURITY, ALSO THEIR IMITATIONS AND
ADULTERATIONS.

PUBLISHED BY THE
GROCERS’ MANUAL PUBLISHING CO.,
CHICAGO, ILL.

PREFACE.

The object in writing the Grocers’ Manual has been to give a collection of good recipes, formulas and processes of practical application in the manufacture of Grocers’ Sundries. The directions and descriptions have been given in simple language. The technical and scientific are not used to any extent. Care has been taken that only the best and latest recipes and best discoveries have been used. In using the recipes be careful to follow the directions and proportions exactly. In experimenting use small quantities. If the first trial is not a success, try again. It will prove that some mistake has been made, as these formulas have all been practically proven correct.

[Pg 5]

CONTENTS.

[9]

GROCERS’ MANUAL.

BAKING POWDER.

There are many ways to make good baking powder, and none are bad, notwithstanding what is said about the unhealthfulness of certain kinds by several large manufacturers, who find fault with all but those made by themselves. The writer of this, after years of experience in the manufacture, has yet to find an unhealthful baking powder. Even should the powder be compounded wrongly, none of all the materials used in its manufacture, are injurious at all, after being baked. Heat and water chemically change the different ingredients excepting the filler, which, being either corn starch, potato, wheat or rice flour, are certainly not injurious. All baking powders generate the same kind of gas, namely—carbonic acid gas. This is the leavening power in the dough, being distributed through the flour in minute particles as baking powder in the dry state. After wetting the mass the generation of the gas begins, causing the dough to swell, in which state it must be baked [10]before the gas escapes. Cream of tartar and soda baking powder generate carbonic acid gas when dampened and leaves a residue, not cream of tartar or soda, for these have been changed by the combustion caused by the moisture, but the residue is Rochelle salts. Alum and soda baking powder generates the same gas, and where the quality is of the best, a little more of it. The residue in this case is neither alum nor soda, but a small amount of Glauber’s salts. The quantity of these salts is so small that to get enough to make one dose for medicine, a man would have to consume at one meal over a peck of biscuits. The baking powder that is to be the future powder of the world [and is to a great extent of the present] is a combination of alum, soda and acid phosphate. Alum and soda, though being the strongest, is apt when used in stiff dough, on account of insufficient moisture being used, or too much powder to the amount of flour, to cause a bitter taste. This is owing to incomplete combustion. The phosphate being the purest of all materials [leaving the least residue] loses its strength when brought into great contact with soda, which it must be when used by itself, as it requires two [11]pounds to one pound of soda, consequently leaving very little room for the filler to keep it cool.

This formula is recommended above all others. It is cheap, strong from the alum, steady also from the alum, as it only releases its gas entirely when exposed to the heat of the oven. Quick rising, from the prompt elimination of the gas by the phosphates, which has also a neutralizing effect, when too much powder is used, or too little moisture employed in mixing.

The Filler. (If starch) should be the chemical corn starch, powdered. It can be had of any starch manufacturer, in one or more barrel lots. It is the same that is sold in one pound packages, and known as corn starch. It should be sifted into the mixer first.

The Sifter. All the material should be sifted through a No. 24 to 50 mesh sieve to reduce all the ingredients to the same fineness.

The Mixer. For small quantities a drum or barrel churn can be used, if a regular mixer is not to be had.

The Soda should not be left standing after sifting, as it cakes very quickly. Sift into the starch, and if not ready to place in the other ingredients, mix it with the starch, when it can be left standing indefinitely.

[12]

Phosphate Combination Baking Powder.

Process. Sift your filler into the mixer, then sift in the soda, C. T. S. and phosphate in succession. If a churn is used, fasten the head securely, and revolve it slowly for fifteen minutes, when the powder will be finished.

Sifters and Mixers. There have been patented several combined machines for this purpose. The best, and indeed a good machine is the Hunter Sifter and Mixer. Never fill the mixer over half full. If more is put in, the mixing is liable to be defective.

Alum Baking Powder.

To adulterate or cheapen cost on this, Terra Alba is used by mixing it in place of starch or flour filler, but not over 12 per cent. of the entire amount; it is an adulteration of the filler.

[13]

One Spoon Baking Powder.

Same as above except in filler, only twenty-five pounds being used.

Tartaric Acid Baking Powder.

Ammonia Baking Powder.

Pure Cream Tartar Baking Powder.

Combination Acid Baking Powder.

[14]

Instructions for Mixing Baking Powder, Starch, Self-raising Flour, Etc.

A good mixer for new beginners and those doing a small business, is a five to twenty gallon tumbling drum churn, with a large mouth and good fitting lid. Never fill it over half full; when the proportions for the mixer are too large reduce them to fit. Turn mixer over slowly; one hundred and fifty times will mix sufficiently.

How To Pack Baking Powder.

Baking Powder is packed in tin usually. In fact, any powder but the clear alum powder will not keep very long without it is packed in tin cans and carefully labeled to keep the air and dampness from entering at the seams and joints. Always pack full weight. If bulk baking powder is wanted where it will not be sold rapidly, always give the Alum Baking Powder, or the One Spoon Alum Powder.

Self-raising Wheat Flour.

[15]

Proceed as on page 12, but must be mixed longer.

Directions.—Mix with cold water or milk, and bake on a hot griddle at once.

Self-Raising Buckwheat Flour.

Proceed as on page 12. Buckwheat being a heavier flour requires more of the ærating material than wheat flour. Directions for use same as for Self-Raising Wheat Flour.

STARCH.

Corn Starch.—There are two kinds of corn starch used in the manufacture of sundries, chemicaled and unchemicaled. The former is called sometimes sweet starch, the latter, sour starch. The first only should be used for corn starch in packages, for lump starch in packages and bulk, and for Baking Powder filler. It is not quite as white, having generally a slight yellowish cast, and is not subject to climatic changes to the extent that the other is; the unchemicaled [16]starch is better adapted for general laundry purposes, and is used almost exclusively by the large steam laundries. It is whiter and more nearly resembles wheat starch in its results, but liable at all times without being mixed with some other substance, to get a sour and musty smell with age.

Wheat Starch is the whitest, and contains the most stiffening of any of the starches. Is used principally in preparing new linen products for the market.

Potato Starch, is as its name indicates, made from potatoes. Can be used for all purposes that other starches are used for, but is used principally for food.

Dextrine.—It is manufactured from Potato Starch, and is a substitute for gum arabic which it resembles in its results. The yellow Dextrine is used for making mucilage and gumming envelopes. The white Dextrine only must be used in starch.

Prepared Laundry Starch.—A recent invention.

Sift and mix as on page 12.

[17]

Laundry Starch, Powdered.—A cheaper article, and much used.

The Talc, being of a soapy or slippery nature, assists in ironing. The first two articles alone make a good starch; it is much superior to the old starching process.

Starch Packing.—Corn Starch for food is packed, one pound in package, 40 to a case. Prepared Laundry is packed 12 ozs. to a package, and from 40 to 64 in a case; as it goes farther in starching than the old way, none can find fault with the short pound, besides it can be sold at a round price adjusting profits satisfactorily to all concerned.

Starch Lustrine.

Flavor to suit.

[18]

This mixture can be used either with or without starch. If with starch, add 1 spoonful of this to 1⅛ ozs. of boiling starch.

Liquid Starch Gloss.

Water sufficient; mix and digest; is also a good varnish for maps, labels, etc.

FLAVORING EXTRACTS.
Their Manufacture, Etc.

Water Bath (a glue pot is a water bath).—Take a kettle or pail large enough to hold another pail, kettle or jug inside of it, leaving an inch or more space all around it. Place in the bottom about one inch of coarse gravel. Put in water sufficient and place it over a slow fire, then set the vessel and contents to be digested into this. If a bottle or jug, remove the cork. Care should be taken not to let extracts boil. Alcohol in the mass will boil at a lower temperature than if there was no alcohol in it.

Oil Lemon and other essential oils should always be fresh. Old Oil Lemon in extracts produces a turpentine flavor and taste.

[19]

Alcohol.—Should be the best to be had. Deodorized alcohol is preferable in all cases. It can be bought at all distilleries and rectifying houses, and also at all wholesale drug houses.

Magnesia Carbonate is a very necessary help in reducing the oils. Mix the oil and a small amount of alcohol together, then crush magnesia into it in a mortar until a thin, paste-like substance is the result. It cuts the oil into more minute particles than if alcohol alone is used.

Filtering.

Use a funnel for ordinary work and druggists’ filtering paper; fold the paper together so it will fit to the shape of the funnel, set the funnel into a clean jar or bottle, pour in the material. If lemon is cloudy let stand a day or two when it will clear of its own accord. If not clear enough in one filtering filter again.

Felt Bag Filter is used for cheap extracts where quantity and not quality is desired. Should have one for each flavor. They are used in a funnel in place of the paper.

Artificial Flavors should not be filtered. If it can be avoided, filter the alcohol and water beforehand if needed, the ethers are so volatile [20]that the strength will evaporate if exposed to the air.

Triple Extract Lemon.

Mix one pint of alcohol and the oil together, then triturate in a mortar with magnesia enough to thoroughly cut the whole and incorporate it into a thin paste. Pour on it a quart of alcohol, place it in a bottle, cork tight, and let digest for forty-eight hours. Mix the balance of the alcohol and the water together. Have the water warm, shake them well and add it to the original mass, color with Yellow Aniline, filter through paper. If time is brief instead of letting stand forty-eight hours, it can be given the hot water bath for three or four hours; not quite to the boiling point will do as well. The magnesia can be saved to use again.

Mercantile Triple Extract Lemon.

Mix the Oil Lemon and 1 quart of alcohol [21]together, let stand two days, or digest in water bath three or four hours. Mix the warm water and balance of the alcohol together, then add to the original. Color with Yellow Aniline. Filter. When not in water bath all extracts should be kept corked tight.

Standard Lemon Extract.

Mix the Lemon Oil and 3 gallons of alcohol well together by shaking, let stand two days, or four hours in hot bath. Mix the warm water and six gallons of alcohol together, add to the original, shake well, and add the remaining one gallon alcohol. Color with Aniline Yellow to suit; filter in felt bag while warm, if possible.

Wholesale Grocery Standard Lemon.

Triturate in a mortar the Oil Lemon, a little alcohol and magnesia sufficient. Digest in hot bath, then add the balance of alcohol and water. Proceed as in above.

[22]

Alcohol Substitute.

Wood alcohol is used by some manufacturers of cheap extracts in place of pure alcohol. We would advise that it be not used, as it is dangerous.

Triple Orange Extract.

Proceed as in Lemon Extract. Color with Yellow Aniline.

Extract Bitter Almond.

Be careful in handling this; oil bitter almonds is poisonous in its pure state. Proceed as in Lemon Extract. No color.

Extract Rose.

Color with Carmine. Proceed as in Lemon Extract.

[23]

Extract of Nutmeg.

Mix the whole together; let it macerate for twenty-four hours or more, then filter.

Extract Cinnamon.

Proceed as in Lemon. Color to suit, with burnt sugar and red sandal.

Extract Cinnamon No. 2.

Dissolve the oil in 1 pint alcohol, add gradually 1 pint water, stirring constantly. Stir in the powdered cinnamon; agitate often for one day, filter through paper.

[24]

Extract Sarsaparilla.

Mix the alcohol and oils; let stand one day, then add the warm water. Color to suit, with caramel.

Essence Peppermint.

Mix the herbs and 4 ozs. alcohol and the oil together; let stand twenty-four hours. Mix the water and alcohol, then add the whole together, let stand twenty-four hours and filter.

Strong Jamaica Ginger.

Bruise the unbleached ginger and place in the spirit; let it digest for two weeks. Strain it well, then reduce the essence by distillation to one gallon. Let cool and filter.

[25]

Essence Jamaica Ginger.

Reduce the drugs to a coarse powder. Mix the oil of lemon and alcohol; then pour it on the drugs; let it stand for one day or more, then filter.

Extract of Wintergreen.

Mix all together; let stand twenty-four hours; filter; color with red aniline.

ARTIFICIAL FLAVORS.
(American Pharmacist.)

The numbers in acids refer to a cold concentrated solution of the acid in alcohol entirely free from fusel oil, and of a specific gravity of 83 degrees.

These flavors are of the highest concentration.

[26]

Raspberry.

Mix all together.

Strawberry.

[27]

Peach.

Cherry.

Apricot.

[28]

Plum.

Pineapple.

Melon.

[29]

Apple.

Grape.

Pear.

[30]

Currant.

As these are all of very great strength, they can be reduced, especially if for commercial purposes, by adding from 20 to 40 parts of warm water. Color to suit.

The following extracts are made by using the compound ether instead of the several different ethers used in the preceding formulas.

Any one handling the ethers in their pure state, can furnish them compounded ready for use, as follows:

Raspberry.

Warm water sufficient. Color with Red Aniline.

[31]

Strawberry.

Warm water sufficient. Color with Red Aniline.

Peach.

Water to suit. Color with Burnt Sugar.

Cherry.

Water to suit.

Pineapple.

Water to suit.

Pear.

Water to suit.

[32]

Artificial Honey Flavor.

Shake well; let stand four to eight days. If in hurry, digest in hot bath.

Vanilla Extract—Triple Strength.

Split the beans from end to end, then cut them crosswise into short strips ¼ to ½ inch long; dissolve the sugar in the water to a syrup; add to this the alcohol, mix well. Pour this on the chopped beans that have been placed in a jug or bottle. Cork tight and let stand for two weeks or longer to macerate, shaking it frequently in meantime. Draw off and filter as needed; use the old mass in next new batch made; never throw away the dregs.

If in a hurry this can be digested in a few hours by immersion in the hot water bath.

[33]

Triple Extract Vanilla.
(FROM VANILLIN.)

Dissolve the Vanillin in the Alcohol, dissolve the sugar in ½ gallon of the water by heating the water; pour in the balance of the water, then mix the whole thoroughly by agitation for five minutes. Add the color. Filter through paper.

If for confectioners’ use, leave out the coloring.

Vanillin is a concentrated Extract of Vanilla Beans, and is recommended on account of its simplicity and prompt action—saving time in manufacturing. However, the longer it is left standing the better it gets, but it can be used at once after mixing.

Standard Vanilla.
(SO CALLED.)

[34]

Cut the beans up fine. Mix all together in a jug or bottle; cork tight; let stand for two or more weeks, shaking occasionally. Color with burnt sugar.

This can be made sooner by using the hot water bath. A little genuine vanilla added to this is lost, but some of this Tonqua Extract added to Vanilla, is preferred by some.

To Pack Extracts.

Triple extracts are put up in full weight bottles. Standard extracts are put up in short weight bottles. Thus:

Small bottles can be best filled by placing them in rows on a pan or large plate (to catch the waste or overflow) in 2 or 3 doz. lots. Use a soft one-fourth inch rubber tube as a siphon, setting the bulk on a box or shelf a few inches higher than the table you are working on.

This can also be done to good advantage when filling blueing, sweet oil, or any other liquids. Any second-hand bottle cleaned thoroughly can be used for blueing.

[35]

HAIR OIL.

To color tie a small portion of Alkanet Root in a thin muslin bag, let it lie in the oil until it is colored to suit.

Hair Oil—Aromatic Scent.

Mix. No color.

LIQUID BLUEING.

Mix the blueing and acid together in a tub with about five gallons of boiling water, stir it until it is well dissolved, add from ten to twenty gallons more of hot water. Keep stirring. Turn a hose into a barrel sitting on end with a spigot at lower edge over the tub, let it open, and dip the blueing from the tub into the barrel and keep it going constantly until both barrel and [36]tub is filled and well mixed. This will make about 75 gallons of blueing; let it settle before drawing off.

INKS.

Black Ink.

Dissolve the extract of logwood in the one-half gallon of water. Have it boiling, add the potash.

Fine Black Ink.

12 Pounds Aleppo Nut Galls Bruised, boil in 6 gallons of water for one hour. Use a copper vessel, adding water to make up for the portion lost by evaporation. Strain and again boil the same galls in 4 more gallons of water for one-half hour, strain off this liquor also, and boil a third time with 2½ gallons of water and strain; mix the several liquors, and while still hot add 4 pounds Green Copperas coarsely powdered, also, add 3½ pounds gum Arabic bruised; agitate until dissolved, strain through hair sieve, keep it in tight bunged keg. This will produce 12 gallons.

[37]

Common Black Ink.

Boil all together one and one-half hours, strain, and bottle.

Blue Writing Fluid No. 1.

Dissolve basic or soluble Prussian Blue in pure water. This is the most permanent and beautiful ink known. It is not affected by the addition of alcohol, but is immediately precipitated saline matter.

Blue Writing Fluid No. 2.

Triturate in a mortar the blue and acid with a little water to a smooth paste.

Dilute with water sufficient to make an easy flowing fluid.

[38]

Copying Ink.

Shake thoroughly.

Sugar is sometimes used in place of the Glycerine, but it is not as good.

Finer Writing Fluid.

Dissolve Ceruleao Sulphate of Potassa or Ammonia (soluble indigo) in hot water, and when cold decant the clear. It is an intense blue and dries nearly black, is perfectly incorrosive, and very permanent and easy flowing. It may be thickened with gum water or diluted with pure rain water, as required.

Purple Ink.

Infuse 12 pounds Campeachy Logwood in 12 gallons boiling water. Provide a funnel at the bottom of which a sponge has been placed. Pour the infusion through a strainer made of coarse flannel into the funnel, and thence on to 1 pound hydrate or acetate of copper (verdigris) then add immediately 14 pounds alum, and for each 17 gallons of the liquid, add 4 pounds of gum Arabic. Let these remain three or four days, and a beautiful purple will be produced.

[39]

Green Ink.

Boil 2 parts or pounds acetate of copper and 1 pound bitartrate potassa in 1 gallon of water until the solution is reduced to one-half the bulk. Filter through a cloth and when cool, bottle.

Red Ink.

Cochineal in powder 1 ounce, and hot water one-half pint. Digest, and when quite cold add 1 ounce liquor of ammonia and dilute with 3 or 4 ounces of water. Let stand 4 or 5 days, and decant the clear.

Second Hand Bottles.

By cleaning second-hand bottles gathered anywhere and everywhere, they are as good as new for blueing. A grocer using such, and when selling them tell parties buying the blue, that a couple of cents will be paid on return of pint bottles, will always have supply enough.

CASTOR OIL, GLYCERINE, AND SEWING MACHINE OIL.

These can be bought in bulk and bottled, or sold in bulk by using a druggist’s graduating glass; over 100 per cent. profit can be realized without charging more than your competitors for them.

[40]

BIRD SEED No. 1.

Clean and mix thoroughly; should hemp seed be desired do not mix it with the other seeds, but place one ounce of it in a small bag or envelope inside the package, then fill into the package the above mixture until it weighs one pound net weight; a piece of cuttlefish bone one inch long, placed in it, also makes the combination the very best.

Birds prefer the Hemp Seed to all others, and in seeking for it when mixed with the whole, they waste the other seeds by throwing them out of the cups; by separate packages the hemp seed can be fed as desired in separate cups.

Too much hemp seed is not good for song birds. Some bird fanciers discard it entirely.

Good Bird Seed.

Clean, mix and pack.

[41]

Wholesale Grocery Grade.

The Hemp and Millet can be varied as to quantity, due regard being given to the market price of each, or in fact any of the seeds; there are much poorer combinations than this packed, yet people wonder why their songsters cease to sing and die, and the retail grocers are astonished at the way the package bird seed trade has declined.

Parties packing good grades will always succeed in the end. This is applicable to all kinds of goods.

Bird Gravel is gathered on sand bars or gravel bars along creeks, rivers, etc. Sift through sieve to exclude the larger pieces of stone and gravel, then sift through a finer sieve to allow the sand to escape. Packed about 2½ pounds to package.

OXALIC ACID.

Buy in bulk; pulverize to suit. Pack in wooden ointment boxes marked with skull and crossbones, or word poison on package.

[42]

To Pack Seeds, Farinaceous Foods, Etc. in Pasteboard Packages.

First determine what shape you want to put your goods up in, how high a package, how wide and how deep. You then order from any paper box maker the shells the size you want.

He will also furnish you with the tops, bottoms, and the square sheets of manilla paper for the caps. The box maker will send you the shells, scored on the four corners, lapped and glued together; you then need a form. It is a block of wood that will fit loosely inside the shell. Take a piece of board, say one foot long and six inches wide; attach the block in an upright position on the middle of the board by driving a couple nails into it from the under side of the board. Open the shell and pass it over the block.

Now this block must be just the thickness of pasteboard, shorter than the shell; before you push the shell clear down over the block, take one of the ends and place it inside the shell down on the block; then shove the shell all the way down, thereby bringing the top of the shell just even with the top of the pasteboard end. You then prepare your caps which have [43]a margin over the net size of the top of one-half inch all around. Take the dry cap, put some thin paste on it; lay another cap on that, paste it, and lay another until you have about fifty pasted on both sides, then turn the pile of them over. Put some fresh paste on the first one before picking it up, then lay the fresh side down on the top of the shell, turn down the sides and crease in at ends, then fasten the ends down by rubbing over it gently with the hand. Remove the shell from the block and repeat the performance on the balance. Let your shells get well dried.

The object in placing paste on both sides of the caps is to saturate them so as to work easy and pliable, and also to strengthen and stiffen when dry.

After your shells have dried sufficiently, weigh in your goods, clean off all flour or other material that should adhere to the outside of the shell. Lay the pasteboard end on top of the material or filling, then proceed as in making the shell with the caps; after the caps are pasted on, turn the package upside down; the weight of material inside will force the end against the cap. When dry, label as per Instructions for Labeling.

[44]

Labeling Cans.

Paste your labels with thin paste. Fold each one together, pasted sides in. Without you are an expert do not paste more than half a dozen. When ready to label turn the pile of them over so as to use from the bottom, or those first pasted. The pasting of half a dozen or more allows them to get well moistened before using. When placed on the cans or packages in their moist state, there will be no wrinkles when they have dried. After labeling, stand the packages on top of each other to height of three or four packages. Do not place them close together, but so that air can circulate between them.

To Label Ink, Blueing, Extract and Oil Bottles.

Paste evenly a board a foot or more square, with thin paste. Then take the labels you wish to use and lay them backs down on the paste. After you have laid out, say a couple dozen, take a piece of paper, newspaper will do, and cover the whole, then press them down by rubbing your hand over the paper. This is the dampening process for small labels. Commence with the first label laid down to label the bottle, and continue in order; first pasted, first used.

[45]

Directions for Labeling.

Apply the paste to back of labels, with a wide brush. Fold the labels (the pasted surfaces together), and let them lie about one minute, which will give the proper time to absorb a portion of the moisture. Then commence with the first one pasted, and rub down smooth with a stiff brush or handful of cloth.

Labels should be kept in a cool, dry place, standing on their edges. Never lay them down flat.

Paste.

For a good paste that will neither decay nor become moldy, mix clean flour with cold water into a paste well blended, then add boiling water and boil, stirring constantly to keep from burning, stirring well up until it is of a consistency that can be easily and smoothly spread with a brush; add to this a spoonful or two of powdered alum, to keep it from becoming sour or spoiling.

Flour Paste.

The best paste for general purposes is simply wheat flour beaten into cold water to perfect smoothness, and the whole just brought to a boil, while being constantly stirred to prevent [46]burning. The addition of a few drops of creosote, or a few grains of corrosive sublimate, or a little carbolic acid, or bisulphite of lime (especially the first and second), will prevent insects from attacking it, and preserve it (in covered vessels) for years. Should it get too hard it may be softened with water.

OLIVE OIL.

The oil generally used for this purpose is a refined grade of cottonseed oil (the stearine or fat being removed from the crude or fresh oil.) It can be bought of any good wholesale oil dealers. It is put up in bottles called pints, holding in reality only 10 ozs.; in half pints, holding 5 ozs. Put on a foreign sounding label (carried in stock by label houses). Pasting an inch and a half of tin foil around the cork and neck completes the job.

This oil is both as pure and strong as the genuine olive oil, and much cheaper. Olive oil pure is almost impossible to buy at any price.

DESICCATED COCOANUT.

“No, sir, we don’t make cocoanuts,” said a member of a firm whose sign read, “Cocoanut [47]Manufacturing Company,” in response to an inquiry of a reporter for The New York Mail and Express. “What we do is to prepare cocoanut for confectioners, bakers and families, to be used for pies and pastry. The nuts are brought here by the vessel-load, some ships bringing as many as 400,000 in one cargo. They are put up in bags of one hundred each. The average weight of the green nut is one and one-half pounds. The best are those thickest in meat and richest in natural oil and sugar. They come from San Blas, Cow Island, San Andreas, Ruatans, Jamaica, and Baracoa. They grow on the islands of the Caribbean Sea, and the trees are so planted that the roots are constantly washed with salt water. The nuts are not picked from the tree, but fall to the ground when ripe because of the decay of the stems. When the husk is taken off they are ready for shipping. The perishable nature of the green nut has made desiccated cocoanut more desirable in the market, and this is the article we manufacture and sell.”

“What is the operation?”

“The cocoanuts are placed in a large hopper, from which they fall to a zinc-covered table on a lower floor. In front of this table several men [48]are placed, who crack the shell of the nut with a hatchet as it falls on the table. Then the shell is pried off, leaving the meat whole. From six to eleven o’clock six men at this work open twelve thousand nuts. A peeling machine then takes off the brown skin of the nuts, after which the meats are broken into pieces, the milk drawn off, and the pieces put into tubs of clean cold water. The meat is then inspected as to its quality, and next it is put into a grinding mill turning four hundred revolutions a minute. The pulp thus made is mixed with granulated sugar and put in long pans of galvanized iron, which are put in the desiccators and the water extracted at a high temperature. An interesting fact about the work is that the entire process must be completed by two o’clock in the afternoon, because of the delicate nature of the fruit. The desiccated nut is white as snow, and perfectly dry, when it has been through the process, and it is then allowed to cool, and is left in a dry temperature for ten days before it is finally put up for the market. At three o’clock each day the work is all done.”

“What about the idea that cocoanut is indigestible?”

[49]

“It is supposed by many persons to be so. But the best growths show by analysis about 48 per cent. of digestible oils, 5 per cent. of sugar, about 46 per cent. of water, and only 1 per cent. of ash. This being the case, there is scarcely anything people eat more digestible and nutritious.”

To Pack Cocoanut.

Buy a grade that is desiccated in sugar by the barrel, known as Baker’s A Grade. It is as good as is usually packed in cans or packages. Pack in cans or paper shells. If in shells line them with wax paper. Fruit jars are useful and handy packages for this purpose. Some manufacturers call 13 ounces 1 pound, and 6½ ozs. a half pound.

AQUA AMMONIA.

Buy FFFF ammonia by the carboy. Put up in pint bottles, cork with rubber or rubber covered corks. If common cork is used tie a piece of bladder over the top of the cork.

HORSERADISH.

Grate fine to suit. Mix with vinegar. Bottle and cork tight. A little alcohol added will keep it from freezing.

[50]

To adulterate Horseradish mix grated turnips with it.

CANDY.
Degrees of Boiling Sugar.

In preparing sugar for candies the confectioner requires different degrees of boiling in order to bring the sugar to the proper state for the various articles he prepares. Well clarified and perfectly transparent syrup is boiled until a skimmer dipped into it, and a portion touched between the forefinger and thumb, on opening them, is drawn into a small thread which crystallizes and breaks. This is called a weak candy height.

If boiled again, it will draw into a larger string, and if bladders may be blown with the mouth through the drippings from the ladle, it has acquired the second degree, and is called bloom sugar.

After still further boiling, it arrives at the state called feathered sugar. To determine this dip the skimmer and shake it over the pan, then give it a sudden flirt or jerk, and the sugar will fly off like feathers.

The next degree is that of crackled sugar, in which state the sugar that hangs to a stick [51]dipped into it, and put directly into cold water, is not dissolved off, but turns hard and snaps.

The last stage of boiling reduces it to caramel sugar, and is proved by dipping a stick into the sugar and then into cold water, when, on the moment it touches the water it will snap like glass. It has now arrived at a full candy height.

Throughout the boiling the fire must not be too fierce, as it will discolor the syrup. The best safeguard against this is the use of steam heat. Color may be given to the candy by adding the coloring matter to the syrup before boiling it. Flavoring essences must be added when the process is nearly complete.

Cream Candy.

Boil all together except the vanilla (which add after boiling) until it cracks in water, after which work it till very white.

[52]

Sugar Candy.

Let boil without stirring thirty minutes. Use flavor to suit.

Maple Candy.

Let boil until it cracks in water.

Chocolate Caramels.

Let boil until it cracks in water.

To Candy Nuts or Fruit.

Boil the water and sugar until it hardens in water, then add the lemon flavor; use a pair of [53]candy tongs or a sharp piece of wire, stick into the nut kernel or the fruit to be candied, immerse it in the candy while warm, take it out, cool it, and draw out the wire rod.

Cocoanut Candy.

Mix the egg and water, pour it over the sugar, let it stand a few minutes. Boil for a few minutes over a clear fire; set aside, skim all the scum off, then boil until thick, mix in the cocoanut. Mix well, and keep at it until finished.

Almond Candy.

Grate your almonds, then proceed as in cocoanut candy.

Molasses Candy.

Mix the sugar and molasses together. Butter the inside of a porcelain-lined kettle. Put the [54]mixture into it. Let boil over a slow fire two hours. Add the lemon oil and juice, and boil another half hour. Stir often to prevent burning. When done, it will cease boiling of itself. Butter a pan; pour out to cool. If properly done it will be crisp and brittle. (Nuts of any kind may be added just before pouring into the pan.) It must be worked, if at all, just as soon as it is cool enough to handle. Use butter on your hands to prevent sticking.

Molasses Taffy.

Allow the molasses and water to boil until nearly stiff enough, then add the butter and sugar; let boil about ten minutes additional. Pour into pans buttered.

Sugar Taffy.

Place in pan or kettle porcelain lined. Boil gently until stiff enough. Cool in buttered pans.

[55]

HONEY.

Artificial No. 1.

Dissolve the sugar in the water over a slow fire. Skim as needed; bring it almost to the boiling point; stir it occasionally. Remove it from the fire; add 1 pound of the honey, and the cream tartar dissolved in a little warm water; stir, and when at blood heat add balance of the honey. When nearly cold add the peppermint. The quantity of this can be varied to suit the taste. A slippery elm decoction added only in cold weather improves the deception. If better article is wanted, add more honey and less water.

Artificial Honey No. 2.

Boil the alum and water together; set off and dissolve the sugar in it; then boil again for two [56]or three minutes only. Strain it, and when it has become lukewarm, add the flavor. Stir well.

CHEWING GUM.

Dissolve or soften the gum in the water, then mix in the sugar and oatmeal into a thick paste. Roll out into sticks in pulverized sugar mixed with flour or corn starch. Dry.

Paraffine Chewing Gum.

Paraffine dissolved in cottonseed oil and glycerine at a moderate heat, stirring constantly, then cooled and pressed; may be used in this state as chewing gum, or substituted in above formula for the balsam tolu.

BORAX POWDER.

So much used now, can be bought at a nominal price in barrels. It can be packed in paper packages without loss of strength. It is often adulterated with terra alba, which in itself is not injurious, but is a cheat on the consumer.

[57]

FINE RED CATSUP.

Wash and quarter the tomatoes. Place in a porcelain-lined kettle. Let them boil in their own liquor until soft, about one hour on a brisk fire. Strain through a fine sieve to exclude the seeds. Add red pepper, mustard, salt, sugar and vinegar. Place the black pepper, cloves and allspice in a small muslin bag, then put it into the juice. Boil for four hours, stirring occasionally to prevent burning. Let cool, and bottle.

EAST INDIA CURRY POWDER.

These seeds and roots must be fresh. Roast [58]all separately; be careful not to burn them. Powder finely; mix thoroughly, and bottle to suit.

WORCESTERSHIRE SAUCE.

English Formula.

Mix all together down to asafœtida. Dissolve the latter in the brandy, then add it to the mass. [59]Boil the liver in the water for twelve hours, replenishing the water as it boils down. Then mix the liver and water thoroughly, strain through a coarse sieve; add this to the balance and mix well; let stand.

Imitation Worcestershire Sauce.

Put all into a stone jar; set in water bath; heat gradually until it is too hot to bear your finger in it. Let it stand two days; strain and bottle.

TO IMPROVE RANCID BUTTER.

Wash the butter well in good fresh milk and then with cold clear water. Butyric acid which causes the rancidity is freely soluble in fresh milk.

To Improve Rancid Butter. No. 2.

Beat the butter thoroughly with the water [60]after adding the lime to it; let it stand for a couple of hours in the water. Pour it all off, then wash thoroughly in cold clear water. This is a harmless and good way to sweeten the butter.

To Purify Rancid Butter.

Melt the butter; pour off from it any deposit, then boil it a short time with limewater; allow to settle, then suddenly cool the butter, which can be done by pouring it into clear fresh water containing broken ice, after which it can be taken from the water and worked same as if just fresh churned.

BUTTER COLOR

Digest twenty-four hours, or boil for thirty minutes. Draw off, then filter, add the ½ pint alcohol; shake well; warm it before putting in bottles; cork, and seal well.

[61]

Butter Color.

The following is a cheaper color:

Mix, and proceed as above.

PULVERIZED BATH BRICK.

A fair quality of cement sifted through a very fine sieve. Pack in packages, same as corn starch.

TIN AND METAL POLISH.

Rotten stone sifted through a hair or fine muslin sieve. Mix with it soft soap until it is brought to the consistency of putty; add to it two ounces of oil of turpentine. It will harden soon; it can be placed in tin boxes, small shoe polish boxes, or it can be made into balls. Moisten the paste with water for use; smear it over the glass, brass, tin or other articles to be cleansed. Rub dry with a dry soft rag.

[62]

PASTE SHOE POLISH.

Without Oil Vitriol—No. 1.

Rub together until the oil is killed, add a little strong vinegar; reduce to the proper consistency.

Shoe Blacking.

Mix same as above. Add water to reduce.

Shoe Polish.

Mix same as above.

[63]

Liquid Polish—Without Vitriol Oil.

Mix the black molasses and oil until the oil is completely killed, then add the beer and vinegar.

Liquid Polish No. 2.

Mix the black, oil and molasses as above, then gradually mix the water and vitriol, first mixing them. Let stand three hours, then reduce to proper consistency with water or sour beer.

Ladies’ Shoe Dressing.

Dissolve the logwood in hot water heated to [64]nearly boiling. At nearly boiling point add the bichromate and prussiate of potash. After a deep blue has developed, add the borax. When this is all dissolved, add the shellac and ammonia.

Waterproof Blacking.

Mix, heat to dissolve soap and oils, stir constantly until cool.

STOVE POLISH.

Cake Polish.

Temper with water and pass through moulds; the plumbago and lead must be ground to the fineness of flour.

[65]

Paste Polish.

Mix thoroughly the plumbago and lead. If jet black is wanted, mix in some lampblack also; then heat some common laundry soap and a small amount of water to nearly the boiling point; then mix the whole together; use some cheap odor to disguise the soap smell. Put into tin boxes, label to exclude the air, and prevent evaporation.

Liquid Polish.

Consists of a small amount of the Pulverized Leads and a quantity of Benzine. It is dangerous.

Liquid Polish No. 2.

Mix thoroughly, apply with a cloth.

Benzine can be substituted for the water.

[66]

FURNITURE POLISH.

Thoroughly mix the warm water and alcohol, dissolve the shellac in this; add the sulphuric ether and mix thoroughly all together.

Should be well shaken when used, and applied with a sponge.

Splendid for old varnished articles.

METAL POLISHING PASTE.

Mix thoroughly; apply with woolen rag.

WAX PAPER.

Place a piece of sheet copper over a very moderate fire, lay a sheet of paper on it; paint or [67]smear over it with sponge or brush, melted white or yellow wax.

A little experience will enable one to do this very rapidly.

There is no patent on this kind of paper. A machine process for making wax paper is patented, however, but it applies to the machine alone.

HEKTOGRAPH PAD.

Dissolve the gelatine in the water in water bath, then add the glycerine. Place over slow fire until it boils. Skim, and pour into shallow pan letter paper size.

Directions for Use.—Write on paper with the ink for this purpose, and allow the writing to become dry. Then place it face down on the pad, allow it to remain for three to five minutes, remove it, and proceed with blank paper to take copies of same. This will give from thirty to fifty copies; wash off with damp sponge immediately. Use more gelatine for summer pad than for a winter pad.

[68]

Hektograph Ink.

Dissolve the methyl violet in the water, warm it gently (not boil) for about one hour. Add the glycerine, and when nearly cool, add the alcohol.

Hektograph Ink No. 2.

Mix all together. If too free add a little glycerine.

INSECT POWDER.

Persian Insect Powder.

The plant is a native of the Caucasus, bears a composite flower, which is dried and powdered. It is manufactured principally in Tiflis. It will cause the death of flies, bedbugs, roaches, etc.

Insect Powder No. 2.

Buy Dalmatian Insect Powder in bulk. Pack in wide mouthed bottles.

Persian Insect Powder is about the same thing.

[69]

Either is sure death to insects, but harmless to human beings.

Insect Powder Adulteration.

The adulteration of this is done with regular spice adulterations colored with Chrome Yellow. Adulterating it makes it nearly worthless.

FLY PAPER.

Sticky Fly Paper.

Mix and heat to nearly boiling point until the rosin is completely dissolved. Spread it out quite thin on some non-porous paper (Fools-cap or manila will do), keeping it back from the edges a half inch or more, fold facing until wanted, then pull apart.

Sticky Fly Paper No. 2.

Proceed as in No. 1.

Poison Fly Paper.

Dissolve the sugar and cobalt in the hot water, soak some porous paper in the solution, it is ready for use.

[70]

CANNING FRUIT.

Instructions.

Select fresh fruit that is perfectly ripe, but at the same time, perfectly sound. One unsound berry may injure all in contact with it.

The boiling water poured into the boiler will be considerably cooled by contact with the cans; care must be taken not to let the water return to the boil while the cans are in it; and yet it must become hot enough to expel the air from the cans.

The surest way to attain the desired object is to keep the bulb of a thermometer in the water. A heat of 200 to 208 degs. Fahr. will answer best, but it must never exceed the latter degree. To ascertain when all the air possible has been expelled, put one drop of hot water on the air hole; the cessation or absence of air bubbles passing through it, will denote that the cans are ready for final sealing.

Fresh Fruit.

Procure a sufficient number of tin cans of suitable size, fill them quite full with the fruit, and solder them securely. Next pierce a small pin-hole in the top of each can, to allow the air [71]to be expelled; place the cans in a boiler as deep as the cans are high, pour boiling water into the boiler until within one-half inch of the top of the cans; keep the water hot over a moderate fire, but not boiling, until the air ceases to escape from the cans, and then seal the air holes with solder before removing the cans from the water. The cans should then be taken out, wiped dry, and allowed to cool; when cold, if the cans have been closed perfectly air-tight, the vacuum inside will cause the top and bottom of the cans to become concave or hollowed inward. Tomatoes are also kept fresh in this manner.

Berries, Etc.

Peaches, apples, pears, plums, etc., can be kept perfectly fresh in tin cans in the manner described above, and will retain their fresh flavor almost, if not entirely intact. Raspberries, strawberries, etc., are kept in better condition by adding ½ pound white sugar to each pound of fruit, letting them come to the boil, and then filling the cans quite full, soldering the lid of the can immediately. The hot fruit will, to all intents, expel the air from the can. No water should be used with the fruits, except in cases [72]where a little is necessary to dissolve the sugar, as it tends to render them insipid. Most vegetables can be kept in cans in this way, omitting the sugar, and scalding them in water sufficient to cover them.

Cold Process.

Pare and halve the peaches. Pack them as closely as possible in a can without any sugar. When the can is full, pour in sufficient cold water to fill all the interstices between the peaches, and reach the brim of the can. Let it stand long enough for the water to soak into all the crevices—say six hours—then pour in water to replace what is sunken away. Seal up the can, and all is done. Canned in this way, peaches retain all their freshness and flavor. There will not be enough water in them to render them insipid. If preferred, a cold syrup could be used instead of pure water, but the peaches taste most natural without any sweetening.

Fresh in Jars.

Use only self-sealing glass jars. Put into a porcelain-lined preserving kettle, enough to fill two quart jars; sprinkle on sugar one-fourth pound; place over a slow fire, and heat through, [73]not boil. While the fruit is being heated, keep the jars filled with moderately hot water. As soon as the fruit is ready, empty the water from the jars, fill to the brim with fruit, and seal immediately. As it cools a vacuum is formed, which prevents bursting. In this way every kind of fruit will retain its flavor. Sometimes a thick leathery mold forms on the top—if so, all the better. The plan of keeping the jars full of hot water is merely to prevent the danger of cracking when the hot fruit is inserted. Some prefer to set the bottles full of cool water in a boiler of water and heating all together gradually; but the other way is much simpler and equally effective.

Pears, Etc.

Place the pears, halved or whole, in the can or jar, cold. Pour syrup over them until the can is nearly full up to the top. Pure water may be used instead of syrup. Solder on the lid carefully, then punch a small hole through the center of the lid. Then place the can in a kettle of warm water, having some wire in the bottom of kettle for the cans to rest on. Have the water come up nearly to top of cans. Bring the water [74]gently to a boil. Boil twenty minutes, lift out the cans, wipe dry around the small hole, then solder it up.

Peaches, plums, cherries, blackberries, green gages, apricots, huckleberries, raspberries, are canned same as pears. Grapes require heavy syrup.

Time to Boil.

In canning fruits and vegetables, leave the can in water from time it commences boiling, as follows:

[75]

Jars.

Glass jars have been invented with vent hole in the lid to allow the air and steam to escape while cooking, after which it is made airtight with a thumb screw.

KITCHEN SOAP.

Take good laundry soap. Heat it and mix with Silesia stone, finely powdered. Place in molds before cooling.

CROCKERY CEMENT.

Powdered lime mixed to a thin paste with whites of eggs. Keep tightly corked, as it hardens very rapidly.

Universal Cement.

Mix by dissolving in warm bath. Bottle and cork tight.

MUSTARDS.

Common Mustard.

[76]

Mix the vinegar gradually into the mustard, place in the cloves, let it boil over a moderate fire. Add the sugar, let boil again. Bottle and seal.

Frankfort Mustard.

English Mustard.

French Mustard.

[77]

Cut up fine the different ingredients, digest them in the vinegar by a warm bath. Strain, press out the residue and filter, then stir in the mustard, enough to make a thin paste.

PICCALILLI.

Spiced Vinegar for.

Digest in warm bath for a few hours.

Parboil in salt gherkins, cauliflower, sliced cucumbers, celery, sliced onions, small onions, French beans, etc.

Place all in stone jar, pour the spiced vinegar on them, and let stand.

VINEGAR.

Cider Vinegar.

Take 10 gallons apple juice fresh from the press, and suffer it to ferment fully, which may [78]be in about two weeks, or sooner, if the weather is warm; and then add 8 gallons like juice, new, for producing a second fermentation; in two weeks more add another like new quantity, for producing a third fermentation. This third fermentation is material. Now stop the bunghole with an empty bottle, with the neck downward, and expose it to the sun for some time. When the vinegar is come, draw off one-half into a vinegar cask, and set it in a cool place above ground, for use when clear. With the other half in the first cask, proceed to make more vinegar in the same way. Thus one cask is to make in, the other to use from. When making the vinegar, let there be a moderate degree of heat, and free access of external air. The process is hastened by adding to the cider, when you have it, a quantity of the mother vinegar, as it is called—a whitish, ropy coagulum, of a mucilaginous appearance, which is formed in the vinegar, and acts as a ferment. The strength of vinegar depends on the amount of sugar or starchy matter to be ultimately converted into acetic acid.

Cheap Vinegar.

A supply of vinegar can be kept constantly on [79]hand by retail grocers. Before you have sold out a barrel entirely of your regular stock, say two or three gallons, fill it up with 1 gallon of molasses to every 11 gallons of soft water. This mixture will become good vinegar in about three weeks—and can be treated in its turn in the same way. When less than a barrel a week is used, three barrels thus treated and used in rotation, will be sufficient to keep up a perpetual supply. If the barrels stand on end, there must be a hole made in the top, protected with gauze to keep out insects. If standing on the side, the bunghole must be left open, and similarly protected.

SPICES.

Buy the spices whole and grind them yourself. Spice mills are cheap. If you want adulterated spices buy the adulterations separate and mix them yourself. All wholesale spice houses sell the adulterations already prepared at prices moderate enough for any one.

The writer knows of cases where grocers grind their own spices, holding a spice trade alone that is very valuable. It is next to impossible to get pure spices in ground state without grinding them yourself.

[80]

To Clean Spice Mills.

After grinding one kind of spice, if you wish to change to another, grind a small lot of rice through the mill. Always grind the weakest and most faint flavored spice first.

CREAM TARTAR

Is adulterated by mixing phosphate with it in proportion to suit selling price.

TO PRESERVE CIDER SWEET.

Mix thoroughly, let stand; said to keep sweet for a year.

SODA WATER SYRUPS.

Syrups not made from fruits may have a little gum Arabic added to produce a rich froth when the soda water is put into it.

Simple Syrups.

To 8 pounds fine white sugar add two quarts water, whites of two eggs (or isinglass dissolved in hot water) stir until sugar is dissolved, let simmer for 3 minutes, skim, and strain through fine flannel.

Soda syrups may be produced from this, by adding the different flavors wanted.

[81]

Soda Water Foam.

Beat the whites of the eggs into the water, dissolve in the sugar and acid.

Directions.—Add one ounce of this to each pint of syrup.

GROCERS’ DRUGS.

Cough Syrup.
AN EXCELLENT ARTICLE.

Heat the water, add the morphine and tartar emetic. Stir until dissolved, add syrup cold, shake well, then add the ipecac and tincture sanguinaria. Put in bottles to suit.

Dose.—Adults, 1 teaspoonful three times a day. Children in proportion to age.

[82]

Florida Water.

Dissolve the oils in the alcohol, let stand twenty-four hours, then add the water. Filter. No color.

Florida Water No. 2.

Proceed as above.

Arnica Jelly.
FOR CHAPPED HANDS AND LIPS.

Oil Rose a few drops sufficient to scent.

[83]

Mix the starch, glycerine and water together, heat to 240 degrees. When nearly cold add the arnica and rose oil. Color with red aniline.

Artificial Bay Rum.

Grind the oils in magnesia with a little alcohol added. Then mix the whole, and filter.

Hand Grenades.

Mix them well together. Put into thin bottles, cork tightly, and seal by dipping the cork and neck of the bottle into heated sealing wax to prevent evaporation.

Hand Grenade No. 2.

[84]

Corn Remedy.

Mix well together.

Directions.—Apply once a day, with a small hair pencil. After a few days the corn can be lifted out. Attach a small hair pencil to the cork of the vial before it is put into the bottle. By having a large cork, it will act as the handle for the pencil, which is always submerged in the liquid. Vials of size ⅛ to ¼ oz. is large enough to pack it in. Retails usually at about 25c. each.

Sozodont—Said to be.

Mix the soap, glycerine and water together over slow fire until dissolved. Put the oils in the alcohol. Mix the whole together after the first part has cooled some.

[85]

Rat Poison.

Rough on Rats—Said to be. Colored Arsenic.

Wax for Bottle Corks.

Melt and strain. Dip the corks and neck of the bottle into it while hot, then let stand until cool.

JELLIES.

Cherry Marmalade.

Boil all together, with frequent stirring, from six to eight hours.

Fruit Marmalades.

For other Marmalades use the fruit wanted in about same proportion as foregoing, and proceed as in same.

Quince Jelly.

Take the cores and parings left from a half bushel of quinces, add to this one peck of sweet apples pared and cut in small pieces, cover with [86]water, and boil until soft. Strain through a flannel or coarse muslin bag. To every pint of juice add an equal amount of sugar by measure. Boil slowly on a steady fire for three or four hours. When done pour in glasses or jars, and let stand until cool. Cover.

To Cheapen the Jelly.

Use less sugar, and any kind of fruit; use gelatine to stiffen the mass, flavor, when milk warm, with artificial flavor to suit, and color with red jelly coloring. Tartaric acid in small quantities can be added to economize on fruit.

To Color Jellies Red.

Red Aniline dissolved in alcohol, is sometimes used in cheap jellies.

To Color Jellies Red No. 2.

Syrup of Cochineal can be used, but should be added to the Jellies as soon as through boiling.

To Color Jellies Red No. 3.

A very fine color, which will not be affected by Acids or Alkalies, is made by preparing a syrup of Kermes Berries (Phytolacca Decandra). It is also used for coloring vinegars, wines and liquors.

[87]

Hints for Jelly Makers.

Never use a metal vessel or a metal spoon when boiling jelly.

Boil the jelly in a porcelain lined kettle, or in a large stone jar.

Boil the juice twenty minutes before adding sugar.

Dissolve the sugar separately in a little boiling water, and add it to the boiling juice hot.

Boil slowly over a steady fire. Do not cover while boiling.

Strain through a flannel bag if possible. If not, use a muslin bag.

Always add sugar of same measure as juice.

Boil about four hours.

If gelatine is used, less boiling is required, and less sugar also.

YEAST.

Dry Hop Yeast.

Boil two large potatoes and a handful of hops (put the hops into a cheesecloth bag) in three pints of water. When done, take out the potatoes and mash well, add one pint of flour, and pour boiling water over all. Beat it well together, adding one teaspoonful salt, one teaspoonful [88]ginger, and a half cup of sugar. When cooled to milk warm, add a cup of good yeast, let stand two days, or, if weather is warm, one day, stirring it down frequently. Add corn meal until thick enough to cake. Lay it out on a table or board about one inch deep. Pass over it a heavy roller, which will press it to a thickness of a little over half an inch, then cut in small squares with a long knife about one and a quarter inch square. Place on a canvas-covered frame, set in dry place where air can freely pass. When quite dry, pack. One square is enough for six large loaves of bread.

Dry Hop Yeast No. 2.

One-half peck potatoes. Boil until soft, keep water on them to amount of 2½ gallons. When soft add one handful of good hops. Then boil thirty minutes. Proceed then to mash and mix the hops and potatoes thoroughly. Pour the liquor strained through a sieve (to exclude the hops and potato skins) into a five-gallon jar. Mix in enough flour to make a medium paste. Mix into this one-half pint of brewers’ yeast. Let it rise. When well up, stir it down. Do so a second time, let stand ten hours, and add some corn meal, about half of what it should [89]have altogether. Let it rise again, then add corn meal until it gets crumbly, then spread out, press dry, and pack away. The time consumed in making this, will extend over several days.

Salad Dressing.

Take the yolks of two hard boiled eggs, rubbed smooth with one teaspoonful fine ground English mustard, add one teaspoonful of salt, and the yolks of two raw eggs beaten into the other. Then put into it two teaspoonfuls fine powdered sugar. Pour in fresh olive oil or refined cottonseed oil, a little at a time, beating the same into the mass as long as it continues to thicken. Then add vinegar to reduce it to proper consistency. If not hot enough, add Cayenne pepper. Bottle and seal tight for future use or sale.

Salad Dressing No. 2.

[90]

Beat the yolks of the eggs, add the sugar and spices, boil the vinegar, and to it add the butter while it is boiling, throw it over the other, and mix thoroughly. Bottle tight, and set in cool place for future use.

CHOCOLATE.

Plain Chocolate.

Roasted cocoa beans or nuts are placed in a heated mortar, and ground to a paste with the pestle. It is then poured into molds to cool. Grind the cake into powder; in this form it is sweetened, flavored, and adulterated to suit.

French Chocolate.

Grind the vanilla beans and the sugar together in a mortar, then grind the whole together. Pour into molds.

Adulteration.

To adulterate, use plenty powdered sugar and corn starch. Sweet chocolate is made this way.

[91]

Spanish Aromatic Chocolate.

Triturate or grind together:

If a cheaper chocolate is wanted, add pulverized sugar.

WHITING.

Buy in bulk, sift, and repack in dozens to suit.

Manufacturing Grocers’ Supply House.

Geo. P. Vosbrink,

Chicago, Illinois,

MANUFACTURER AND JOBBER IN

Baking Powder Chemicals, Extract Supplies, etc.

AMMONIATED ALUM, PHOSPHATE,
BICARBONATE SODA, CREAM TARTAR,
CARBONATE AMMONIA,
POWDERED BORAX, DEXTRINE, TERRA ALBA,
COTTONSEED OIL, VANILLA BEANS,
SOAPSTONE,
TONKA BEANS, OIL LEMON, OIL ALMOND,
OIL ORANGE, ETC.
BAY LEAVES, ROSE LEAVES,

All Kinds of

ARTIFICIAL EXTRACT FLAVORS, ETHERS,
METHYLS, AMYLS, ETC.

Also Full Line of

COMPOUND ARTIFICIAL EXTRACT FLAVORS, INSECT
POWDER, PEPPER DUST, BIRD SEEDS, ETC.

Stock Labels of All Kinds, either Blank or Filled In, to Order.

All these goods either in Bulk or Packages, to suit. Price List mailed on application.

ALUM BAKING POWDER.

PHOSPHATE COMB. POWDER.

Special Labels furnished and filled in to order, in lots of not less than 1 gross of 1 lbs., or not less than 2 gross ½ lbs., or not less than 3 gross ¼ lbs., or if 1 gross of 1 lbs. are taken, and quarters or halves wanted, will furnish 1 gross of either of small sizes at same time, without extra cost.

VOSBRINK BAKING POWDER WITH PRIZES

1 prize to each can. Prizes always up to the times.

Descriptive circular of prizes furnished on application.

All goods delivered free on board cars at Chicago.

Parties not rated please send reference in Chicago or cash to cover amount of bill, less 2 per cent. discount.

All goods guaranteed as to quality.

GEO. P. VOSBRINK,

Chicago, Ill.